DIY - Beaumont Tiles

how to
TILE A BATHROOM DIY
made
easy!
Scan here to watch the video
HOW TO TILE A BATHROOM
FROM YOUR
TOOLBOX
TILING A BATHROOM: WHAT YOU’LL NEED
Electric Drill
Grinder
Clean Rags
Tape Measure
Paint Brush
Adhesive
90045 ABA Powerstik Powder 20kg
90578 ABA Mixing Bucket
Grouts
ABA Easy Grout 750gm bottle
White 90574
Black 90575
Slate Grey 90577
Screed
Grout sealer
87661 ABA Abascreed
508304 Aerosol Sameday
Grout Sealer 443mL
Waterproofing
Tile Leveller
90570 SALS Washer (400 pc bag)
90571 SALS Stems (400 pc bucket)
90572 SALS Caps (400 pc bucket)
90058 STB Tape
90057 ABA Waterproofer Rapid 15L
Tools
90502 Adhesive Trowel 10mm
90506 Gauging Trowel 200mm
115704 Coscut Tile Cutter 500mm
110282 Knee Pads
90530 Ardex Rubber Grout Float
90538 Ardex Marking Pencils
90536
Ardex Micro Sponge
111301 Straight Edge 2100mm
115706 DTA Professional 3 Vial Level 600mm
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PREPARE & CLEAN A BATHROOM FOR TILING
tip: Before you start tiling, ensure you’ve picked your bathroomware and chosen
where it will go in your bathroom. Changing your plumbing fixtures becomes much
more difficult after you start tiling!
Any tiling job will only be as good as the surface it’s laid on. It’s important to ensure that, no matter what
surface you’re tiling on, the surface is sound, level and clean of dust and debris.
Most floor surfaces are concrete or timber, while plasterboard is common for walls.
Concrete: For best results, the concrete must be allowed to cure for a minimum 28 days before it is tiled
over. Steel trowelled concrete must be mechanically roughened (and then thoroughly washed) prior to
tiling or there will not be enough adhesion.
All concrete release agents and curing compounds must be removed by mechanical means. For cracks
larger than 1.5mm consult your local suppliers.
Timber flooring: Due to the normal expansion and contraction of the timber, it is never recommended
to adhere ceramic tiles directly onto timber floors. Untreated floors should be primed and allowed to dry
prior to tiling.
Plasterboard: Plasterboard is a very common indoor wall surface, but is not suitable for tiling without
waterproofing.
Tiling over plasterboard involves adhering tiles to a paper surface, and although this will present little
problem in dry areas, if the wallboard is subject to moisture it may deteriorate causing failure. Plasterboard should be waterproofed before tiling.
Information on other types of wall and floor surfaces can be found on the Tiling Wall and Floor Surfaces
page on our website.
PRIME THE SURFACE FOR TILING
Use a primer with a sponge or roller to prime & prepare
all surfaces that are to be tiled. We are using Ardex MultiPrime
which is a water-based primer.
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CREATE A SHOWER HOB
After the surface is primed, mark out the area of your shower hob.
A standard shower hob is 900mm x 900mm, but a larger size of 1200x1200 is great if you have the room.
Step 1
Start by measuring from the walls then out onto the floor,
and create a line using a straight edge. Make sure the
measurements are parallel and square to the walls. To check
you have got it square, measure from corner to corner.
Step 2
Build the hob with hebel blocks. You can pick these up
from most Beaumont Tile stores. Cut the hebel in half with a
handyman saw.
Step 3
To stick the hebel down, we are using Abascreed. Pour in
the water first to create a sloppy mix. Add the mix along the
lines that were drawn earlier and push the hebel down into
the cement. Add cement on the ends of the hebel blocks to
bind them together. Once this is done, check the levels and
remove any excess cement before it dries.
Step 4
Before you make the screed, its important to mark the fall
towards the grate drain. Australian standards state that you
have to have at least a 10mm fall every 600mm. We have a
1200mm showerbase so we need at least 20mm of fall.
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CREATE A SHOWER HOB
Step 5
To pour the screed, tip the pre-mixed bag into the shower
area and create a well. Pour in the water and mix it in. A
good way to test the consistancy is to grab a bit with your
hand and let it go - it should stay together.
Step 6
Repeat this process untill the base is full, and use a level to
even out the surface. Don’t forget to ensure the screed lines
up with the marks of the fall that were created earlier.
Step 7
Once the screed is dry, sweep the area and prime it once
more. Then use a Neutral Core Silicone Sealer in all of the
internal corners of the shower including the walls, the floor
and the hebel. Note: Do not use any other kind of silicone.
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WATERPROOF A BATHROOM FOR TILING
When tiling a wet area like a bathroom, waterproofing
before you tile is absolutely essential. Because of this,
it can pay to have a licenced waterproofer do it for you.
But if you have some experience and would like to try it
yourself – here is how!
.
Step 1
Having cleaned the wall and floor area thoroughly to
remove all the dirt and dust, apply a liberal coating of
primer using a brush. Then use Neutral Core Silicone
Sealer to run a generous bead along all internal corners
(wall and floor). Finish off the bead using your finger.
Note: Do not use any other kind of silicone.
Step 2
Start by putting the Ardex STB Butynol Tape along each
corner of your shower and shower hob. Also apply it
along the flushing to ensure no water gets behind the
grate drain. Once you have peeled off one half, remove
the other half of the tape and press it all down.
Step 3
Once all the corners are done, use a paint roller to cover
the entire wall and floor. We always insist that the total
wet area is waterproofed.
Step 4
After the first coat of membrane is complete and dry,
apply a second coat. A good tip is to roll the first coat all
in one direction and roll the second coat at 90 degrees (a
right angle) to the first.
Step 5
Allow the membrane to dry for 24 hours before
proceeding with tiling.
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HOW TO CUT BATHROOM TILES
It’s almost inevitable that some of your tiles will have to be cut to fit your wall or floor, and there will probably be
some that have to be cut into a different shape as well as size.
Cutting tiles is not difficult with access to decent equipment and with a little practice. If you’re cutting your own tiles
(and especially if you’re doing this for the very first time), it’s a good idea to allow a couple of extra tiles for practice
or in case of any slight mishaps that may happen.
In this fact sheet we show you how to make a straight cut, cut a shape, cut small shapes, and to cut away small
pieces of tile.
When it comes to cutting tiles, there are a few options.
If you are likely to do a few tiling projects around your home, or are likely to lend specialist tools to friends, neighbours, or relatives; a tradesman’s tile cutter is an excellent investment (and will make you popular with anyone else
starting their own tiling projects!)
If this is a once-only tiling project, then the best option will be to hire a tile cutter from your local Beaumont Tiles
store. You might also consider buying a cheaper ‘handyman’ tile cutter. While these can be a good option, they are
not built to last a long time. They will, however, do a great job for one or two jobs around the home.
TO MAKE A STRAIGHT CUT
Step 1
Using a pencil, mark where the tile needs to be cut.
Make sure that you cut the tile smaller than the space to
allow for even grout joints.
Step 2
Place the tile in the tile cutter and run the scorer across
the tile (once only!). This creates a break point in the tile.
Step 3
Push down the breaker. This will deliver a nice clean and
evenly cut tile.
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TO CUT A SHAPE
Step 1
Using a pencil, mark where the tile needs to be cut.
Make sure that you cut the tile smaller than the space to
allow for even grout joints.
Step 2
Use the tile cutter to score each of the lines that will be
cut. This creates a break point in the tile.
Step 3
Cut to the scored lines using an electric grinder. Sides
first and then the middle.
TO CUT A SMALL SHAPE OR TO CUT AWAY
A SMALL PIECE
Step 1
Using a pencil, mark where the tile needs to be cut.
Make sure that you cut the tile smaller than the space to
allow for even grout joints.
Step 2
Use the tile cutter to score each of the lines that will be
cut. This creates a break point in the tile.
Step 3
Break off little pieces (‘nibbles’) of the tile using a pair of
tile nibblers until the mark shape has been achieved.
pro tip:
Always break of small amounts at a time: never try to
break off the whole shape at once.
Always wear safety glasses and a respirator
when cutting tiles with an electric grinder.
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CUTTING HOLES IN TILES FOR FITTINGS
Cutting holes in tiles is quite easy and there are basically
three options. You can either use a tradesman hole
cutter, a handyman hole cutter, or you can drill and
‘nibble’ the hole to the required size.
Whether you use a hole cutter or a drill will depend upon
what you are making the holes for. If it’s for a tap or
another penetration, you will need to use a hole cutter
before laying the tile. If the hole is for a fitting then it can
be made with a drill after the tile is laid.
CUTTING WITH A HOLE CUTTER
The method here is the same whether you use a
tradesman or handyman hole cutter. The difference
between the two is that the tradesman hole cutter is a
professional quality tool. While the handyman hole cutter
isn’t designed to last as long as the professional model, it
will work well for one or two jobs around the home.
Step 1
Use a pencil to mark where the tile needs to be cut and
mark the centre of the hole.
Step 2
Place the tile over a stable and suitable work surface and
score with a grinder.
Step 3
Drill the hole using a hole cutter.
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DRILL A HOLE FOR FITTINGS
Step 1
Use a pencil to mark the spot where you need to drill.
Place some tape on the centre mark. This is to prevent
the drill bit from slipping on the surface of the tile.
Step 2
Use another piece of tape to make a small well to collect
the dust when we drill. This will save a lot of cleaning up!
Step 3
Drill the hole. Do not use the hammer function on your
drill until you have drilled through the glazed surface of
the tile.
Remove the tape and the job is done.
check it out:
112375
Diamond Core
Drill Bit 38mm
112376
Diamond Core
Drill Bit 50mm
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LAY AND GROUT BATHROOM FLOOR TILES
Once you’ve done a trial “dry lay” with your tiles and your
floor surface is clean and ready for tiling, so are you!
These 8 steps will take you through how to lay and grout
your tiles.
Step 1
Measure out from the wall to establish a square line and
starting point (the video on our website shows how to do
this). Mark the area where you will start tiling, then brush
and prime the floor.
Step 2
Mix the adhesive (follow the manufacturer’s instructions)
and spread about one square metre of adhesive on the
floor where you are going to start tiling.
Step 3
For floor tiles, we use a 12mm notched trowel to spread
adhesive. By using a notched trowel, the adhesive is
applied leaving little tracks on the floor. Once the tile is
bedded into place these notches will flatten out to leave
a bed of adhesive 6mm thick.
Step 4
Place each tile in position with a firm push and bed it into
place with a slight up and down wiggle across the notches of the adhesive.
Every now and then, lift a tile to check that it has complete coverage with the adhesive.
We recommend the SALS tile levelling system by Ardex
to ensure there is no lipping on the surface, and which
doubles as a spacer. Position at the corner of each tile
and screw down the caps. This will give you a more
professional finish.
check it out:
90570 SALS Washers (400 pc bag)
90571 SALS Stems (400 pc bucket)
90572 SALS Caps (400 pc bucket)
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LAY AND GROUT BATHROOM FLOOR TILES
Step 5
Clean off any excess adhesive from the face of the tiles
as you work.
Allow the adhesive 24 hours to dry before grouting.
NOW IT IS TIME TO GROUT
While grouting is not a difficult process, a well-grouted
job can make all the difference to the finished project.
Cleaning, buffing and polishing (with thorough repeating!)
will pay untold dividends.
Step 6
When mixing the grout, add the powder to the water
to ensure a thorough mix with no lumps. Mix to a thick
paste-like consistency.
Apply the grout. Push it into the joints and compress by
wiping over at an angle across the joints.
Do not apply grout to the corners where walls meet
floors and where two walls meet. Silicone will need to be
applied here.
Remove all the excess grout. Allow the grout to dry and
for a film to set on the face of the tiles (this will take about
an hour).
Step 7
Clean up with a damp (but not too wet) sponge. Do not
wash the floor or overly wet the surface. The trick is to lift
the film without wetting the actual grouted joint.
Make sure that you wipe on a 45 degree angle and keep
rinsing the sponge as you work.
Step 8
After most of the grout is removed from the tile, buff over
it with clean cloths.
check it out:
This pre-mixed grout can
be squeezed into the joins
ABA Easy Grout
750gm bottle
White 90574
Black 90575
Slate Grey 90577
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TILE A BATHROOM WALL
The secret to tiling a wall perfectly is all in the edges: the
bottom row of tiles, and the ‘column’ of tiles in the corner
need to be perfectly level.
Step 1
Calculate how high you will tile on the wall. The standard
height of a shower is 2.1 metres. We are using 600mm
tiles, so measure down from the top every 600mm until the
bottom of the last full tile, then draw a level line. The space
between that line and the top of the shower line should be
equal across the line.
Step 2
Measure along the bottom of the shower to the floor and
mark the walls. Then line up the tiles for the bottom row
and cut them to fit below the line.
Step 3
Back-butter the tiles and push them onto the wall. Check
that you have full coverage of the adhesive.
Step 4
You can use a tile levelling system to ensure there is no
lipping on the surface, which doubles as a spacer. Don’t
screw your first row down until you’re happy where the
tiles are. If there are any gaps under the tiles, use wedges
to hold them up. The first row should be perfectly level.
Step 5
Continue with the next rows, checking the level as you go.
With pre-mixed wall adhesive, we use a 6mm notched
trowel (check the instructions on the pack) to apply the adhesive to the wall. When applying wall adhesive, we always
suggest that the notches run horizontally.
Step 6
Once the glue is dry knock out the clips. Its essential that
you knock them out in the same direction as the grout line.