Chap 14

3/10/2009
CHAPTER
FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD
AND THE NINETIES
c 1870 - 1900
c.
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The Bustle Period
From 1870 to 1890 was named
after the bustle, the
predominant feature of
women’s dresses.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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The way clothing was produced and sold began to change.
Contributory to these changes were:
• Wide use of sewing machines
• Development of sized paper
patterns
• Technology allowing the
cutting of many garment pieces
at the same time.
“Circular knife (Wolf type A)
was patented in 1888 and cut
one thickness of cloth.”1
“Wolf Model 2279 used a thin
vertical blade action to cut
three thicknesses of cloth.”2
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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At the same time, the influx of immigrants provided workers and
consumers for the clothing industry.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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Department stores and mail order catalogs provided new ways of
selling clothing.
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THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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The undergarments worn to support the new silhouette of the 1870’s
continued to include many of the same elements as in previous periods:
•
•
•
•
Underdrawers
Chemise
Corset
Corset Cover
Click to toggle image.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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An alternative for underwear became available, the combination, which
combined drawers and chemise into one garment.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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The new element was the bustle, a structure to support a skirt with a
full back.
1873
1869 -1875
1876
1886
Visit Farthingales for a discussion on bustle shape
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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In the twenty years that bustles were in fashion, three different shapes
of bustles were worn.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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The earliest bustles, c. 1870-1878, created by manipulating the full skirt
in a waterfall-like effect, often with a train.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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Called a sheath or cuirass bodice, the second bustle type, c. 1878-1883,
dropped fullness to below the back of the knees.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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The final bustle type, c. 1883 – 1890, was rigid and shelf-like and rarely
had a train.
X
Click image to
Enlarge
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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With the fullness concentrated at the back, outdoor garments had to be
cut to accommodate the skirt.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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The Nineties
About 1990 the bustle lost its prominence, the only reminder was a
small group of pleats at the back of the skirt.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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As back fullness diminished sleeves grew larger, skirts more circular
and an hour-glass shape silhouette came into fashion.
Click image to rotate 360°
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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Even two piece “tailor-made”
suits for women had the popular
leg-of-mutton sleeves.
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THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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Now the outdoor garments had to accommodate the large sleeves.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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Women began working in factories and offices in ever larger numbers.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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The availability of ready-made blouses called shirtwaists made a
shirtwaist and skirt the ideal dress for work.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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Throughout the 19th Century women
had begun to take part in more
sports. A craze for bicycling in the
1890’s contributed to the return of
bloomers for women.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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The Aesthetic Movement in the
arts encouraged a rejection of the
current bustle fashions in favor of
what its proponents called a
“Medieval” look.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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Art Nouveau design motifs appeared in jewelry, as patterns in textiles,
and were reflected in the s-shape curves of garments at the turn of the
Century…
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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Hair and Headdress
c. 1880’s
c. 1899 - 1900 French Floral Toque
c. 1890’s
c. 1880’s
c.1890 Gray Velvet Toque
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
c. 1870’s
1880's Black Straw Bonnet
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Footwear
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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Additional Accessories
Gloves
Parasol
Fan
Capelet
Watch
Glasses
Mourning Brooch
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THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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While the rapid changes in
women’s clothing styles were
readily apparent, changes in
men’s clothing from 1870 to
1900 were more subtle.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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Men, too could wear combinations or union suits.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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Men could choose from more types
of jackets. Generally the type of
jacket worn was related to the
formality of the occasion.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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An innovation in evening wear was the tuxedo, made with a sack jacket
and first worn in the 1880’s.
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THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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For golf and other sports activities, knickers were worn.
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THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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The basic styles, such as the Chesterfield and frock coats, changed little,
but lengths varied. More exotic styles included the Inverness and the
Ulster.
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THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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Hair and Headdress
Top Hats
Derby
Fedora
Straw Boater
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THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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Footwear
Oxfords
Tennis Shoes
Balmorals
Congress Boot
Bicycle balmorals
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THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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Additional Accessories
Collars
Pince Nez
Ties and Ascots
Walking Sticks
Gloves
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THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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Bustles appeared in the
dresses of young girls as
well as adult women.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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Little boys still wore skirts, then graduated to any of several types of
suits.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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The popularity of a children’s book, Little Lord Fauntleroy, led mothers
to dress their sons in costumes similar to those of the book’s hero.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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ThroughoutVictoria’sreignemphasison
proprietyandcustom wasstrong.
Emphasisonastrictcodeformourning
dresswasoneexample.Asthecentury
ended,Vi
ictoi
oria’sreignwascomi
ingtoend,
andsowerethestrictcustomsthat
regulatedthemourningdressthatwouldbe
putonatherdeath.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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For Further Study
Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing
Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm
Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html
Bath Museum http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk
Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of
garments and accessories. http://www.camrax.com
Museum of the City of New York. Images from several exhibits. www.mcny.org/collections
Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org
Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute
www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp
Smithsonian National Museum of American History,
History Washington,
Washington DC
http://americanhistory2.si.edu/costume/fullindex.cfm
Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html
Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html
19th Century Shoes
http://www.northampton.gov.uk/Museums/Collections/Boot_and_Shoe/History_of_Shoe
s/19th_Century.htm
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THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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For Further Study
Veblen’s Theory Of The Leisure Classes
http://www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/pembfun/vebleis7.html
Bustles
http://www.fashion-era.com/bustles.htm#Bustles
Art Nouveau
http://www.artlex.com/ArtLex/a/artnouveau.html
http://www.artelino.com/articles/art_nouveau.asp
Aesthetic Dress
http://www.gbacg.org/aesthetic_dress_inspirations.htm
http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/british_galleries/bg_styles/Style08a/objects/o
bject5_1.html
Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing
Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama
Book Specialists.
Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theater Arts Books.
Waugh, N. 1994. The Cut of Women's Clothes, 1600-1930. New York: Theater Arts Books.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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Image Credits
Various images, courtesy of Deborah Burke, [ www.antiquedress.com ].
Various images, courtesy of Violet J. Willis, [ www.trousseau.net ].
Various images, courtesy of [ www.farthingales.on.ca ].
Various dress images, courtesy of [ www.antique-fashion.com ].
Image of 1890's Butterick Pattern. Ladies' nine gored flare skirt, in round, clearing or shorter length, courtesy of,
[http://www.vintagemartini.com].
Various Hat Images, courtesy of [ www.vintageshirt.co.uk ].
Image of Wolf Cutting Equipment, courtesy of [http://www.moah.org/exhibits/archives/stitches/tech.html].
Image of Woman with bustle, by Hall, [http://mywebpages.comcast.net/saretzky].
Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, c. 2005, [ www.antique-lace.com ].
Various images in this chapter are courtesy of Photo Arts; Fairchild Publications, Inc.; Fairchild Library;
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND
THE NINETIES
c. 1870 - 1900
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