THE CRINOLINE PERIOD

3/10/2009
CHAPTER
THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE
PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
Check for updates on the web now!
Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on
the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the
buttons below to navigate to another page, close
the presentation or to open the help page.
ImportantEventsInfluencedStylesoftheC rinolineP eriod
C licktoadvancethroughthetimeline
CJus
he
kus
fo
r$7,
00
Gci
eSmi
ppe
G
i000.
br
al
t
in
t200,
har
Mo
ridi
ll
1859
1863
1852
1860
1850
1861
1851
1862
1863
1867
1858
1857
–1870
-186
5theoryofevolutionin
1865
1869
Csi
har
lo
el
s
D
wi
nme
pub
l
he
s
hi
Emanc
pat
i
neo
Prntar
rboe
cclo
amat
i
oins
e1861
nds
sl
av
eThi
ryin
t
he
Ut
ni
teSe
dns
St
ates
Lo
Napo
o
s
Napo
l
e
o
n
t
he
r
d
and
he
c
har
l
W
me
e
t
s
t
he
Empr
e
s
s
Euge
ni
e
and
b
e
to
o
Eb
Ceone
ngr
eCz
e
Har
es
U
r
sB
pas
ni
pe
ut
ts
r
e
s
d
t
e
se
s
B
St
r
i
he
c
C
az
k
at
Mo
pat
v
ar
e
sc
l
,
pur
r
e
W
f
rnt
as
i
l
ar
l
s
c
hi
has
Ac
t
i
he
o
nnc
n
t
et
f
,
magaz
s
he
i
e
Al
s
t
U
ab
as
s
i
ni
l
z
k
i
e
ne
a
d,
e
hi
d
f
,t
r
ng
pape
b
St
o
e
m
gi
at
ns
r
he
pat
s
pub
Ri
Gr
t
us
e
l
r
i
ant
s
c
ngi
i
at
ans
fo
io
o
C
r
nc
o
lnd
o
ll
te
hi
ge
ng.
s
R
uni
f
i
c
at
o
n
o
f
It
al
y
Is
Qui
aac
C
ue
har
e
M.
ne
Vi
l’
Si
Ho
ct
W
nge
t
o
o
ps
o
rh“ r
i
r
k
a
t
h
i
r
nv
t
o
pe
o
e
r
nt
i
ns
c
nue
s
age
t
c
he
o
s
ut
t
c
f
o
ur
i
i
r
no
s
e
c
t
c
e
l
pr
upy
i
s
ne
ts
ac
ab
i
s
l
i
he
i
s
nt
al
hme
B
r
s
oer
duc
nt
wi
i
t
ng
s
n
e
h
d
P
Thr
mac
ar
i
hi
s
ne
ne
.
Ab
aham
Li
o
l
n
i
as
s
as
sc
i
nat
d
Tr
ans
c
o
nt
i
ne
nt
al
r
ai
l
r
o
ad
c
mpl
t
e
di
The
Or
i
gi
n
o
f
t
he
Spe
c
eLand
st
”
FrenchR epubde
lic
eco
me
sltohe
Se
sib
gn
he
rc
the
s condEmpire
1850 1851 1852
1857 1858 1859 1860 1861 1862 1863
1865
1867
1869
2
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
The style lines for women’s dress at the beginning of the crinoline
period were like those of the late Romantic Period.
Click image to toggle view
3
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
1
3/10/2009
The innovation of the cage crinoline or hoopskirt c. 1857 contributed to
the continuing popularity of very wide skirts.
Click to rotate 360°
4
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Hoops to support skirts were not a new idea. They had been used in
the 16th and 18th Centuries.
5
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Cartoonists found hoopskirts a rich subject for humor.
6
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
2
3/10/2009
Before the adoption of the cage crinoline, women’s rights advocates
had attempted to reform women’s dress proposing the bloomer dress.
The support provided by hoops helped to make women’s skirts lighter,
therefore less encumbering, and the bloomer costume faded away.
7
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Women’s under drawers were
made of cotton.
X
X
Click to Enlarge
8
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Over the under drawers, they
placed a chemise.
X
Click to Enlarge
9
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
3
3/10/2009
Over the chemise, went a corset.
X X
Click to Enlarge
10
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Over the corset went a camisole or
corset cover.
X
Click to Enlarge
11
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Next, the hoop was added.
Click on image to rotate 360°
12
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
4
3/10/2009
And then a single petticoat over
the hoop. In winter, it might be
made of flannel.
X
X
Click to Enlarge
13
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Dresses were usually two piece, had a full gathered or pleated skirt,
and a dropped shoulder line.
XX
• Daytime dresses had high necks
• Evening dresses had low, often
off-the-shoulder necklines
Click on image to Enlarge
14
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
To go outdoors any of several garments might be worn.
• A shawl, perhaps one of the
Kashmir shawls popular since
the beginning of the century
• A short jacket
• A mantle
15
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
5
3/10/2009
Accessories of Note
Under sleeves and Chemisette
Parasol
Miser’s Purse
Jewelry
16
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
Footwear
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
A man’s undergarments included
under drawers and, in cold
weather, perhaps an undershirt.
17
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Over which he placed a shirt,
worn with a tie or cravat.
18
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
6
3/10/2009
And over that trousers, held up by
suspenders.
19
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Next, a vest.
20
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Men could choose from several different
jacket types.
• Dress or tailcoat for formal, evening wear
• Frock coat for daytime
• Sack jacket for less formal occasions
21
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
7
3/10/2009
For outdoors, a variety of cloaks, capes, overcoats.
22
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Accessories of Note
Suspenders or Braces
Pocket Watch and Fob
Hats
Ties
23
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Although both boy and girl toddlers wore skirts, older children were
dressed much as adults.
24
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
8
3/10/2009
With the opening of the House of Worth in Paris, British-born Charles
Worth began the high fashion dressmaking that became know as the
haute couture. His clients were rich, famous and royal women from
all over the world.
25
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Military conflicts inspired some fashionable styles.
• The Garibaldi Blouse from the
red shirts worn by the soldiers
fighting under General
Giuseppe Garibaldi for the
liberation of Italy
• Zouave jackets worn by
Algerian soldiers and adopted
by an American Civil War
regiment.
X
X
Click to enlarge image
26
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Though sports for women were limited, they did have costumes
specifically for bathing and riding horseback.
XX
Click to enlarge image
27
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
9
3/10/2009
By the end of the decade of the 1860’s, the fashionable silhouette had
changed. It featured:
Skirt
Not
fullness
a gathered,
A higher
moved
but
waistline
more
a gored
to the
skirt
back.
28
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
For Further Study
Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing
Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm
Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html
Bath Museum http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk
Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images
of garments and accessories. http://www.camrax.com
Museum of the City of New York. Images from several exhibits.
www.mcny.org/collections
Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org
Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute
www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp
Smithsonian National Museum of American History, Washington, DC
http://americanhistory2.si.edu/costume/fullindex.cfm
Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html
Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html
19th Century Shoes
http://www.northampton.gov.uk/Museums/Collections/Boot_and_Shoe/History_of_S
hoes/19th_Century.htm
29
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
For Further Study
Paisley Shawls
http://dept.kent.edu/museum/exhibit/paisley/paisleyex2.html
http://www.izaak.unh.edu/museum/shawls/dp_index.htm
Hoopskirts
http://www.greenlightwrite.com/hoopskirt.htm
http://www.philamuseum.org/exhibitions/installations/hoopskirts.shtml
http://demode.tweedlebop.com/crinoline.html
Charles F. Worth, Couturier
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/wrth/hd_wrth.htm
Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing
Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York:
Drama Book Specialists.
Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press.
Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theater Arts Books.
30
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
10
3/10/2009
Image Credits
Image of Cage Crinoline, courtesy of the New York Public Library of Digital Images.
Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, c. 2005, [ www.antique-lace.com ].
Image of Cage Crinoline, c. 1860, courtesy of Suzi Clarke, [ www.suziclarke.co.uk ].
Image of Harper’s Front Page c. 1867, courtesy of Michael Ward, [ www.magazineart.org ].
Various images, courtesy of Violet J. Willis, [ www.trousseau.net ].
Image of Drawers, c. 1850-1860, courtesy of Donna Neary, [ www.heritagestudio.com ].
Various images, courtesy of Deborah Burke, [ www.antiquedress.com ].
Image of Farthingale and Panier, courtesy of [ www.farthingales.on.ca ].
Image of Spring Fashions, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection.
Image of the Garibaldi Blouse, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection.
Image of Swimwear, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection.
Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, [ www.antique-fashion.com ], c. 2005.
Various images in this chapter are courtesy of Claire King; [ www.clipart.com ]; Photo Arts; Fairchild Publications, Inc.;
31
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
c. 1850 - 1869
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
11