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© THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 THIEN LE a man of the cloths: charmeuse, chiffon, organza and silk © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 Socialites, celebrities and athletes across the world count on Thien Le to dress them around the clock. The Canadian designer’s flawless workmanship carries through all of his lines: from luxurious cashmere weekend wear to versatile pieces for golfing to red-carpet couture. His designs are polished and skillfully draped with no expense spared. Baby-soft, double-lined cashmere coats. One-seam, bias-cut, handembroidered evening gowns. His wedding dresses often incorporate 30 metres of silk chiffon — enough material to cover nearly the entire length of a football field. His work often references the 1930s, 40s and 50s — a window Le calls “the elegant period.” Today, [Thien] is recognized as one of Canada’s premier designers. It’s no wonder he rarely sleeps. For Le, a late start means arriving at his downtown Toronto studio by 4 a.m. In Toronto, he studied at the International Academy of Design. He cut his teeth at the Canadian Opera Company, creating costumes with an attention to detail that has become his trademark. In 1999, he launched his own label, the first of more than half-dozen lines that now bear his name. Le also works as a consultant for corporations and has consulted with Bombardier, Miele, Cashmere, Virgin Mobile, Lancome and Elizabeth Arden. Today, at 35, he is recognized as one of Canada’s premier designers. In June 2012, his work will be on display with six other Canadian designers in an exhibition titled, “Fashionality: Dress and Identity in Contemporary Canadian Art” at The McMichael Canadian Art Collection. © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 Thien LE is about evolving, not reinventing, therefore the foundation of each collection remains constant. The collections are inspired by the fundamentals of fashion – the fabrics, colours, textures, finishes, fit and the craftsmanship. The silhouette is classically feminine with modern touches. Jackets are beautifully tailored with attention to detail, a ribbon closure here, a contrast lining there. Dresses are entrance makers in the tradition of Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly. © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 The Thien LE woman is confident, intelligent, sophisticated and yet playful. She cannot be defined by her age; she is a woman that has reached the pinnacle of her career and her life. Worldly and educated, fashion to her is not about what’s trendy but about what’s uniquely hers. Clothing for her is about the natural balance between her beauty and that of the garment, each enhancing the other. © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 The Thien LE label made its debut in 1999. Since then, the name Thien LE has become synonymous with glamourous and elegant eveningwear. Made from the finest silks and wools from Europe and Asia, the garments are flattering, timeless, intricately detailed, finely tailored, and always sexy. There are a number of different lines within the Thien LE label. They are as follows: Thien LE Ready to wear Thien LE ONE One of a kind, couture pieces Thien LE Signature Custom pieces, direct from studio Thien LE MEN Tailored menswear in the tradition of Saville Row (only in Fall/Winter) Thien LE Bridal and Thien LE Luxe A sumptuous collection of cashmere Le.T Golf Style-savvy golf and casual wear for the undaunted women Thien LE continues to be involved in every aspect of the business from the initial fabric selection to the final fitting. As a result, he has a personal relationship with all his clientele. © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 VietSun Magazine & VietLife As the Fashion Director and a regular contributor to these Vietnamese magazines, Thien shares his expertise in fashion and lifestyle. His use of photography and subject matter bring dynamic content to the magazines. © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 Pearls of the Far East Thien’s foray in the entertainment industry continues most recently as costume designer with Cuong Ngo’s feature film, Pearls of the Far East. Along with the star-studded cast and crew, Thien recently attended the movie’s premiere in Vietnam, which garnered great reviews. Adapted from award-winning stories by Minh Ngoc Nguyen, Cuong Ngo weaves a vivid, timeless and unforgettable tapestry with characters brought to life by a gorgeous cast of acclaimed talent from Vietnam, US and Canada, including actresses Truong Ngoc Anh (The White Silk Dress, 2006), Nhu Quynh (Vertical Ray of the Sun, 2000), Hong Anh (Moon at the Bottom of the Well, 2009), Ngo Thanh Van (The Clash, 2010, The Rebel, 2007), Minh Ngoc Nguyen (who also wrote the screenplay based on her own stories), and the legendary Kieu Chinh (Joy Luck Club, 1993). © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 Ngan Ngoc Nguyen Author and host of Paris by night / Thuy Nga © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 clockwise from top left Thuy Duong Master of ceremonies Nhu Quynh Singer Kieu Chinh Actor, “The Joy Luck Club” Ky Phuong Uyen Singer © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 Iman Supermodel and actor © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 right + bottom right Chantal Kreviazuk Singer / Songwriter bottom left Raine Maida Our Lady Piece Singer / Songwriter © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 Catherine O’Hara Award-winning actor “A Mighty Wind” “Best in Show” “Home Alone” © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 (Below) Libby Znaimer Journalist & author (Above) Colm Feore Award-winning actor of stage and screen, such as “The Borgias,” “The Chronicles of Riddick,” “Thor,” and “24” Donna Feore Director & Choreographer of the prestigious Stratford Festival © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 the atelier of Thien Le a man of the cloths: charmeuse, chiffon, organza and silk by Jennifer Lee ARTICLE FROM LUSH MAGAZINE Sitting at a long rectangular table, Thien Le pops his head up from behind the sewing machine as I enter his studio. “Can you wait a second?” he asks. A mountain of massive plastic bins tower behind him as he sews, while a never-ending string of patterns hang in front of his table. As I learn later on, the bins are row upon row of style biographies, each a precious archive of swatches, measurements and patterns, one for each of Le’s long-term clients. As for the patterns—well, they’re cut by Le himself and for a designer rounding out a decade of work, that’s a commentary on itself. But for Le, his label wouldn’t function any other way. “It’s the process of making clothes,” that defines his label. Involved in everything from standard designing to occasional sewing, Le is no high-nosed couture designer, all ego and no workmanship. As a label, Le explains, quality is dependent on well-rounded fashion knowhow. “My clothes wouldn’t look the same if I didn’t know how to sew,” he says, “A stitch can make a big difference.” Particularly in Le’s case who, at times, designs dresses to be delicately held by a single stitch, allowing them to seamlessly cascade down the body. Attention to detail is a tragic habit for Le. “It’s just horrible,” he says, throwing his hands up in the air, “all I see are flaws.” He pops out of his seat and tugs playfully at one of the hundreds of threaded peacock feathers hand-stitched onto a silk skirt. “I don’t see the finished sample. I see thread hanging out!” Clients have long-profited from Le’s quirky tunnel vision. In the role of the plastic surgeon sans scalpel, Le thinks two things of customers when they walk through his studio doors: what are you trying to cover, and how can his clothes give you the illusion of physical perfection? With regards to customer purchases, Le insists on fit. “When you come here with money, it doesn’t mean you can buy everything you want,” he laughs. With his reputation at stake — “it has my name on the back”— Le personally ousts any unflattering items of clothing which may tickle a customer’s fancy. “They get used to it after a while,” he says of the routine, chuckling as he adds, “I try to fix my customers’ posture, as well.” It’s obvious that fashion for Le is “not about the money.” Nor is it about media, as Le’s absence from the major Canadian shows and the label’s lack of a recent ‘look book’ attests. Media frenzy never found its way to Le’s label, despite his work being collected around the globe. Even back when Le was the ‘new’ kid on the block, publications never referred to him as ‘up-andcoming Thien Le from Toronto’ and he jokes that it’s left him feeling as if he’s missed a step in his fashion career. While Le admits press is “great to have” his attitude is expressive, “The media doesn’t pay my bills.” Le is a purist when it comes to fashion. “I don’t like the politics,” he says of media placement and “I don’t like pretentious people,” he says of fashion’s notorious elite. To Le, fashion is the job, not the hype balancing the job. “I don’t want to be the next Tom Ford,” he exclaims on the topic of hype, a bizarre proclamation coming from a man sitting in a studio brimming with exquisite couture dresses designed by him. But it’s not about him; that’s the point. As Le—a strong believer in karma — attests, his continued professional success and happiness are thanks to those around him. “My customers and my staff made me who I am today.” (Continued on pg.24) © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 Relaxed and straightforward, Le’s ability to establish immediate intimacy has fostered a familial atmosphere that extends to staff — “we’re like a family here” —and customers —“I love them”—alike. “They’re very loyal,” Le boasts of his staff. The same can be said of his clientele. Reveling in customers willing to pay a retainer fee to stay on file, Le is happy to “bend [over] backwards” to ensure customer satisfaction. His exceptional list of credits include producing a skirt overnight after servicing a midnight call from a frazzled bride; customizing luxury pajamas (which aren’t even part of his repertoire) upon request; and custom designing dresses based on nothing more than a phone call and his trusty bin of fashion files. Tailoring his own sunny version of customer care — “tell me what you want and I’ll accommodate it” — Le is simultaneously a designer, stylist, host and friend. He offers a dedication to his clientele that is almost unheard of in any business, let alone the world of high fashion. “My parents don’t even have my cell phone and my customers have my cell phone,” Le chuckles. Formality is not Le’s style. Curled back in his chair, Le tells me of how “customers hang out here for hours,” including the occasional “bored celebrity” who stops by to chat. Le’s clothing is as addictive as his company. After an interview that lasted well past its intended hour, Le began dressing me in his label, throwing luxurious cashmere coats on top of shimmering silk gowns— laughing all the while. Though five lines are featured under the Thien Le umbrella label — ready-to-wear, couture, custom-made, men’s wear and bridal — eveningwear remains Le’s calling card. To earn a name that is synonymous with glamorous and elegant eveningwear, Le has been diligent in maintaining a centricity to his creative vision. “I ask myself everyday, what am I known for? Consistency.” It is paying off, as is the expense. “I design clothes I can’t afford and I love it,” says Le. His label carries nothing under $300, with the price of couture gowns reaching onwards and upwards to $20,000. As a designer, Le’s purpose is to “make simple things look different.” To achieve his unparalleled simplicity and richness of design, fabric is essential and is handpicked from all corners of the world. Though as a design student he swore “never [to] use silk, charmeuse or chiffon,” silk is now amongst Le’s prized fabrics, alongside virgin cashmere imported from Europe and exclusive to Le. Silk is slung into a sophisticated wrap-gown, red and black in colour. The lush silk fabric which comprises the outside is the same that lines the inside, translating into (though unintentionally so) a reversible gown. For himself, a solid silk coat expresses Le’s fondness for colour, for this is a man with a wardrobe which features “nothing in black.” Lined in a vibrant brocade print, the coat begs to be reversed and the “lining” (for lack of a better word) shown off. Without want or attempt—“it just happens that way”— the intricate detail and the quality of the fabric transforms “lining” into anything but the usual slip. For Le, excess is equated with luxury: 100 metres of raw silk is spun into an audacious red gown, created as if to sculpt the figure of a gothic princess. Couture gowns like this are one-of-a-kind pieces. If replicas are constructed, the most that are made are three. Still, it is rare—especially in Canada—that one bumps into a duplicate Thien Le design, for as Le explains, “they never stay in the country.” More often than not, Le’s collection travels overseas; despite his strong reputation in Canada, it’s the label’s biggest market. Such is not the case with this particular gown. Created for a well-known Canadian actress/producer, the gown will see its debut at the grand opening of the Canadian Opera Company. Le does not mention the name of his famous muse; name-dropping is not his style. Leave that, along with the politics, to the rest of the lot. Thien Le will take fashion—pure and simple. © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 Tailoring his own sunny version of customer care, Le is simultaneously a designer, stylist, host and friend. CONTACT TN[1501] Incorporated THIEN LE STUDIO 176 John Street, Suite 503 Toronto, Ontario M5T 1X5 Canada t. 1 416 260 2324 f. 1 416 260 9233 e. [email protected] SHOWROOM 176 John Street, Suite 509 Tororonto, Ontario M5T 1X5 Canada e. [email protected] w. www.thienle.com Southeast Asia Vietnam Hanh Nguyen 0084 938 298 395 [email protected] Europe / Middle East France Cinthea Sleiman 011 33 (0) 6 81 41 30 35 [email protected] East Asia Hong Kong / China Armina Alcala 011 852 9784 0123 [email protected] © THIEN LE / TN1501 INC. 2003-2012 Cayman Islands Grand Cayman Antonio Arch (786) 228-7019 [email protected]