WT_2004_04: COMPARATIVE TEST: BREITLING VS. OMEGA

COMPARATIVE TEST: BREITLING VS. OMEGA
The People's
Choice
The most popular Omega
versus the best-selling
Breitling! What makes
these watches so fascinating? The latest versions
of the Moonwatch and the
Chronomat face off
against each other in this
comparative test of two
superlative timepieces
BY RÜDIGER BUCHER
38
WatchTime August 2004
All photos by imagina
August 2004 WatchTime
39
COMPARATIVE TEST: BREITLING VS. OMEGA
he legendary Omega Speedmaster Professional and Breitling's equally highly
renowned Chronomat are two timepieces that epitomize many people's idea of
what a sports watch should be. Each has made
history in its own way. Each is a perennial bestseller throughout the world. And both are so
avidly sought that each has been expanded
into an extensive line of models.
The Chronomat, recently given a successful
facelift, appears for this WatchTime test in its
latest (and largest) variant. "Evolution" is the
apt name of the new generation. It's bigger
and heavier than ever, yet also delightfully understated - that is, as understated as a Breitling
can be. The new case measures 43.5 millimeters in diameter, larger than the 40.5 millimeters of the last iteration and significantly larger
than the 39.5 millimeters from a decade ago.
The new height is 17.3 millimeters, bulked up
considerably from 14.3 millimeters. These
generous dimensions enable the Evolution to
rival its sister, the "Crosswind." Despite the
larger size, the new watch makes a less ostentatious impression than several of its predecessors. In all honesty, the Evolution doesn't have
much in common with the Chronomat
"UTC," a watch that debuted in 1994 with an
elaborate "Rouleaux" wristband into which a
second (quartz!) watch was integrated. Today's Evolution takes off on an entirely different trajectory than the one pursued by the
blue-gold aesthetic of 1999's Chronomat GT
(Großen Totalisatoren, or "big counters"),
with its high-gloss polished bezel and comparatively large counters.
The counters on the Evolution are quite
large, but they look very well proportioned on
this 43.5-millimeter case. Impossible-to-overlook numerals and a gray (newly engineturned) dial give the entire watch a contemporary, almost elegant appearance. The typical
Breitling feeling comes from the chunky bezel,
which also presents some nice options: Admittedly, it doesn't make much sense to shift the
position of the "0" or the "30," but interchanging the "15" and the "45" can give the
watch an interesting and sometimes very useful countdown function. For example, if you
turn the bezel so that the 15 or 20 mark is synchronized with the minute hand, then that
hand progresses toward the zero mark. The
T
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WatchTime August 2004
brushed matte bezel contrasts attractively with
all other parts of the case and bracelet, which
are polished to a high gloss. The screweddown push-pieces are a new feature. They give
this watch an extra measure of reliability and
help to keep it water-resistant down to 300
meters. The new push-pieces replace the familiar onion-shaped push-pieces, which we
think is a fine idea, as it gives the watch a significantly more modern look. We would have
preferred a matching flat crown. The domed
shape of the crown on the latest version of this
watch, however, has a lot going for it: it's in accord with 20 years of tradition, so it's very kind
to the wrist and it's readily operable.
Omega's Moonwatch makes no attempt to
introduce so many new details, and doesn't
need to, since the secret of its success lies precisely in its distinctive appearance, a once-in-acentury design that has helped it to ascend to
Advantages
+ Classic design
+ Excellent legibility
+ Interesting movement
+ Good cost-benefit ratio
Disadvantages
- Stopped fractions of a second
aren’t legible
- Somewhat unmanageable crown
Classic, sporty, elegant:
Omega's Speedmaster Professional,
the famous "Moonwatch."
COMPARATIVE TEST: BREITLING VS. OMEGA
Advantages
+ Doubly antireflective sapphire crystal
+ Claps closes reliably
+ A strong, all-round wristwatch
+ mature design
Angular, sporty, tough: The
Evolution is the latest generation
of Breitling's Chronomat.
the rarified rank of a genuine cult watch. The
watches that fans have nicknamed "Speedy"
have appeared in many variants, but thus far
there's been only one original Moonwatch. Or
has there? We're skating on thin ice with this
assertion because for the past two years
there's also been a Moonwatch in an updated
variant with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal above the dial to replace the Hesalite (plastic) crystal on the original version. This new
watch, which also offers a sapphire crystal in
the case back, is the one that we've selected to
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WatchTime August 2004
Disadvantages
- A “sweater killer”
compete with the Chronomat in our test of
two best-selling wristwatches.
Naturally, there are significant differences
between the two chronographs. The dissimilarities begin with the design and end with the
movements. One timepiece encases a legendary hand-wound caliber, while the other
relies on a serially manufactured, self-winding
movement that's been fine-tuned to perform
at its fullest potential. Of course, we mustn't
forget that the Omega/Lemania caliber inside
the Speedmaster was originally conceived as a
mass-produced movement. The histories of
this watch and its caliber have been recounted
often enough and in more than adequate detail, so we'll restrict ourselves here to a brief
mention of the bare essentials. Let's begin
with the nomenclature. The caliber's original
name was Omega 861. It was built back in the
days when the Lemania movement manufacturer still belonged to SSIH (Société Suisse pour
l'Industrie horlogère; Omega-Tissot) and it was
technically related to the Lemania Caliber 321
(27 CHRO 12), first built in 1942. The Caliber
861 relied on a simpler construction: it made
do without a classical column-wheel and also
eschewed both a Breguet overcoil and screws
on the rim of its balance. The Omega Speedmaster Professional became a best-selling
watch after the moon landing in 1969. The
movement is inarguably beautiful to look at,
but the real reason why this watch has acquired its cult status has to do with the fact
that it was rediscovered during the 1980s,
when mechanical timepieces returned to fashion and classical hand-wound chronographs
were once again in demand. After the separation from SSIH in 1983, Lemania continued to
offer this caliber under the designation
"1873." It not only appeared at Omega, but
was also used by such manufacturers as Breitling, Chronoswiss, and Baume & Mercier in
subsequent years. The caliber is widely acknowledged as a cleverly constructed, reliable,
not-too-tall, integrated chronograph caliber.
Furthermore, it can lay fair claim to being significantly more exclusive than the comparatively ubiquitous ETA Valjoux 7750. Omega
currently sells this caliber under the designation "1861," a number which (by no mere coincidence) calls to mind the 861. The variant
inside our candidate bears the number
"1863": this number designates a somewhat
more elaborately finished caliber, as befits a
movement inside a watch with a sapphire crystal in its back, but in all other respects it's identical with the 1861.
Breitling opts not to include a transparent
case back, reasoning that few watch enthusiasts would go out of their way to take a closer
look at the Valjoux 7750. This caliber is so
ubiquitous that most connoisseurs have seen
enough of it already. On the other hand, we
shouldn't forget why this caliber is used so of-
COMPARATIVE TEST: BREITLING VS. OMEGA
DATA PAGE
Omega Speedmaster
Professional Moonwatch
Manufacturer: Omega SA,
Jakob-Stämpfli-Strasse 96, CH-2500 Biel
Model: Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch
Reference number: 3573.50
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds; chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counters.
Movement: Hand-wound Caliber 1863, based
on a Lemania 1873 or 861; diameter = 27 mm
(12 lignes); height = 6.87 mm; 21,600 vibra
tions per hour (= 3 Hz); Glucydur balance;
angle of lift of the balance = 50°; 18 jewels;
Incabloc shock absorption; ca. 48-hour power
reserve; no stop-seconds function; elaborate
finishing on the deluxe version; rhodium-plated
components in the movement.
Case: Stainless steel, black aluminum ring with
tachometer scale; black dial; Superluminova luminous material on indices and hands; threaded
screw-in back with transparent pane of sapphire
crystal; scratch-resistant sapphire crystal above
dial is antireflective on its inner surface; crown isn't screw-down; water-tight to 30 meters.
Wristband and claps: Stainless steel
with folding clasp.
Rate results:
(deviations in seconds per 24 hours):
with chronograph function switched off
on
Dial up:
+3
+2
Dial down:
+5
+4
Crown up:
+4
+9
Crown down:
+4
+6
Crown left:
+3
+3
Crown right:
+7
+6
Greatest deviation of rate:
4
7
Average deviation:
+4.3
+5
Mean amplitude:
Flat positions
294° 296°
Hanging positions
242° 251°
Dimensions: Diameter = 38.8 mm;
height = 14.3 mm; distance between
the lugs = 20 mm; weight = 157 grams.
Manufactured since: 2002
Price: $3,595 with steel bracelet ($2,795 with
Hesalite watch-glass and steel bracelet)
ten: because it's so incredibly good! Like the
Lemania caliber, the 7750 is generally acknowledged to be one of the sturdiest and
most reliable chronograph movements in the
world of mechanical watches. Why did the
7750 become so widely distributed, while the
Lemania remains an avidly sought rarity? The
reason probably has to do with the up-to-date
automatic winding system and the central rotor that winds the mainspring in one direction
of rotation: these practical features distinguish
the Valjoux caliber from its competitor in this
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WatchTime August 2004
The famous
hand-wound Omega
1861 (Lemania 1873)
has powered the
Moonwatch for 35 years.
test. If you overlook these fundamental conits movements for official testing - not only the
structive differences, you discover several combest 85%. Fine-tuning improves each timemon denominators. The 7750 is an integrated
piece's rate performance.
chronograph caliber rather than relying on a
As is so often the case, Breitling's contestant
modular addition. Nonetheless, the 7750
again achieved top-notch results on our timing
makes do without a column-wheel. In its
machine. The greatest differences among the
place, a slideway is used to control the chronoseveral positions, a statistic that's also known
graph's start, stop, and return-to-zero funcas "delta," quantified at the very small values
tions. This solution isn't quite as pretty as a colof just two seconds with the chronograph
umn-wheel, nor is it quite as complex to manfunction switched on and four seconds with
ufacture and assemble, but
the chronograph function
Super
Size
Me:
it's no less reliable. Breitling
switched off. This gave the
A decade ago
uses the designation "CaliChronomat a slight advanthe Breitling
ber 13" to refer to this
tage in stability of rate and
Chronomat meamovement, and for a good
reliability over the Omega
reason, because the 7750
Speedmaster Professional,
sured 39.5 mm.
receives a very thorough
Today it comes in which scored delta values of
tuning from many of the
four and seven seconds.
at 43.5 mm.
roughly 100 watchmakers
The second big difference
at Breitling Chronométrie in La Chaux-debetween the Speedmaster and the Chronomat
Fonds, Switzerland. Countless post-processing
is in the watch's designs. Breitling's watch has a
and quality-control steps combine to ensure
very big diameter and a rather tall height, and
that all Breitling movements are so good that
the timepiece's striking design further emphathey can pass the C.O.S.C.'s test and receive
sizes its already hefty dimensions. The Moonofficial chronometer certification. The most
watch, on the other hand, takes a softer-spoimportant components (mainsprings and balken approach, continuing to offer its elegance
ances) aren't merely spot-checked but individunchanged for the past 35 years. Anyone who
ually adjusted. Wheels are carefully measured,
bought one three decades ago and is still wearbalances are poised, and balance-springs are
ing it today can rest assured that his watch is
centered. This comprehensive fine-tuning is
still very much up to date. The watch makes a
necessary because Breitling sends every one of
rather slim impression: this is due to the mod-
COMPARATIVE TEST: BREITLING VS. OMEGA
DATA PAGE
Breitling's Caliber 13
(Valjoux 7750) has
received elaborate
fine-tuning, but the
extra labor isn't
externally visible.
erate height of the actual construction (well unthe dial, which would otherwise seem too
der seven millimeters) and to the design, which
crowded. Why, you may ask, was this scale inemphasizes the slim appearance. The crystal,
cluded at all? The answer has to do with the
for example, extends fairly far beyond the rim
history of this model, which was originally tarof the case, thus making the Moonwatch seem
geted to appeal to the highly emotional worlds
even slimmer than it actually is. The disadvanof the automobile and motor sports. Little did
tage of this advantage is that
Omega know that NASA
Breitling opts not
the unprotected edge of the
would later select this watch
to include a trans- to accompany Apollo astrocrystal is exposed to lateral
parent case back, nauts to the moon.
blows, which can make
reasoning that few
themselves more painfully
Although the Chronoevident with a sapphire
watch enthusiasts mat looks more modern
rather than a plastic crystal.
than the Speedmaster, and
would go out of
The design of the dial is extheir way to take a despite the fact that its latcellent: slightly recessed
est face-lift has added furcloser look at a
counters without peripheral
ther appeal, we still awardValjoux 7750.
framing and slender white
ed the maximum number of
dauphin hands against a black background
points (15) in the "design" category to the
produce a perfect contrast. A chronograph
Moonwatch, which thus narrowly defeated its
simply couldn't be more readily legible. This
competitor by a single point. How could we
timepiece doesn't offer a date display, but we
not bestow full honors on the face of a watch
don't really miss it. There's no stop-seconds
that has been successful for decades and has
function either, but you can compensate somenever needed to undergo any changes?
what for its absence if you gently turn the
As far as legibility goes, both the Breitling
crown counterclockwise. The only detail that a
and Omega each earned highest scores, aldesigner would probably change nowadays is
though in this category too, each watch folthe black bezel with the tachometer scale. It
lowed its own distinct path to arrive at the
looks a wee bit antiquated, but changing it
same destination. The contrast on the Speedwould be a sacrilege perpetrated against this
master's dial is unbeatable, but Breitling nartimekeeping legend. The placement of the tarows the gap with a crystal that's antireflective
chometer scale is a good choice. It disburdens
on both its surfaces. Breitling's watch noses
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WatchTime August 2004
Breitling Chronomat Evolution
Manufacturer: Breitling
Model: Chronomat Evolution
Reference number:
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds;
chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour
counters, date display.
Movement: Automatic, Breitling Caliber 13,
based on an ETA Valjoux 7750;
diameter = 30 mm; height = 7.9 mm;
28,800 vibrations per hour; 25 jewels; Incabloc
shock absorption; ca. 42-hour power reserve;
stop-seconds function; official COSC
chronometer certification.
Case: Stainless steel; bezel rotates in only one
direction and can be immobilized; screw-down,
adjustable cursors on the bezel; threaded screwin back; domed sapphire crystal is antireflective
on both its surfaces; screw-down crown and
push-pieces; water-resistant to 300 meters.
Wristband and claps: Stainless steel "Pilot"
bracelet with folding clasp.
Rate results:
(deviations in seconds per 24 hours):
with chronograph function switched off
on
Dial up:
+4
+3
Dial down:
+5
+4
Crown up:
+5
+6
Crown down:
+5
+6
Crown left:
+5
+6
Crown right:
+3
+2
Greatest deviation of rate:
2
4
Average deviation:
+4.5 +4.5
Mean amplitude:
Flat positions
334° 331°
Hanging positions
309° 289°
Dimensions: Diameter = 43.5 (new!) mm;
height = 17.3 mm; weight = 212 grams.
Variants: Bicolor, yellow gold or white gold
(limited series; gold case is water-resistant to
100 meters only)
Price: $4,500 ($3,630 with leather strap)
out its competitor when called upon to measure intervals with fraction-of-a-second accuracy. The chronograph's seconds-hand passes
through eight increments every second (in accord with the pace of the balance), so four intermediate strokes between each of the larger
strokes on the big minute-circle along the periphery of the dial is exactly the correct number
of subdivisions. The chronograph's secondshand invariably comes to rest either precisely
on one stroke or halfway between two neighboring strokes.
Watch designers weren't quite such sticklers
for detail back in the 1970s. The minute-circle
on Omega's Speedmaster Professional is sub-
COMPARATIVE TEST: BREITLING VS. OMEGA
TEST RESULTS
Breitling Chronomat Evolution
Wristband and clasp (max. 10 points):
10
Very well crafted; improvements have been
made at the strap lugs; a visual and tactile
pleasure; clasp closes securely and cannot be
opened unintentionally.
Operation (5):
4
The crown is easier to grasp than it was in
the past, but you need a strong thumbnail to
operate the safety bow on the clasp.
Case (10):
10
First-rate craftsmanship; the bezel with its
screw-down and adjustable cursors is
particularly elaborate.
Design (15):
14
Mature, modern, and more self-consistent than
ever before; an absolute classic among sports
watches.
Legibility (5):
5
Less than optimal contrast between silver
and gray; problem-free legibility at night.
Wearing comfort (10):
9
If the watch is strapped closely around the wrist,
you'll scarcely notice its large size and heavy
weight; the sharp-edged cursors on the bezel,
however, are apt to catch on the threads in your
sweater.
Movement (20):
15
Large series Caliber 7750, but given most
elaborate fine tuning; an indestructible and
extremely reliable "tractor."
Rate results (10):
10
Very good; minor deviations in all positions;
strong amplitude.
Overall value (15):
13
The first-rate steel bracelet justifies the price;
good resale value.
TOTAL: 90 points
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WatchTime August 2004
divided in the classical manner with five intermediate strokes between each pair of larger
strokes. The balance's frequency (3 hertz =
21,600 vibrations per hour) means that the seconds-hand advances through six increments
each second. Hence, the calibrations on the
minute-circle don't perfectly match the actual
progress of the seconds-hand. We think it
would be taking purism a bit too far to insist
that Omega alter the subdivisions at this late
date. Honestly, who among us really measures
intervals to the nearest 1/6th or 1/8th of a second, especially now that we've all become so
accustomed to using the decimal system?
Therefore, we saw no need to subtract any
points because of the minor discrepancy between the seconds-hand and the minute-circle.
Nighttime legibility is impeccable on both dials. The luminous material on each continues to
glow in the dark for a long time. The large "60"
on the Chronomat made it necessary to eliminate the "zero" stroke on the small seconds
subdial, a small shortcoming which nonetheless
makes itself felt when you try to set this indicator. We judged this to be an acceptable peccadillo. We also noted and pardoned the absence
of markings for "1" and "29" minutes and for
"1/2" and "111/2" hours. The duration of the
stopped interval, however, can be determined
by glancing at the other hands. In any case, the
new numerals improve the overall impression
made by this watch.
The difference between the two timepieces is very obvious when you strap them
onto your wrist. Omega's wristwatch fits perfectly: it's pleasantly flat too, so your cuff
slides smoothly over the case. The clasp opens
elegantly and without undue effort in response to gentle pressure from thumb and index finger, but you have to be sure that the
clasp actually clicks shut when you close it
again. That's not a problem with the clasp on
the Breitling: when it's closed, it's really
closed. It stays as securely shut as Fort Knox
thanks to the elastic effect produced by the
folding elements that come to rest atop one
another. The safety bow above them really isn't essential: it improves the security from
100% to 1,000%. The downside is that you
need a strong thumbnail to flip the bow up
again. As is also the situation on the Speedmaster, the clasp doesn't pinch or press un-
TEST RESULTS
Omega Speedmaster Professional
Wristband and clasp (max. 10 points):
9
High quality, very well crafted bracelet;
the clasp stays securely closed and is easier
to open the clasp on the Breitling.
Operation (5):
4
The crown is difficult to pull out when the watch
is on your wrist; the push-pieces can be operated
without any problems.
Case (10):
9
Impeccable; the use of a sapphire crystal
has further improved the case.
Design (15):
15
The passage of time hasn't adversely affected
this design; it fully deserves its status as one of
the great classics; a fine combination of sporty
looks and elegance.
Legibility (5):
5
Stopped fractions of seconds cannot be read,
but except for this detail, the legibility is
perfect. The time can be read instantly, both
day and night.
Wearing comfort (10):
10
Very comfortable; you scarcely feel it on
your wrist.
Movement (20):
15
Classically constructed, mature, reliable
chronograph caliber with nice finishing.
Rate results (10):
9
Quite good, just as we've come to expect from
Omega. Our candidate was adjusted to gain
slightly; the amplitude declined in the hanging
positions.
Overall value (15):
14
Despite several price hikes during the past
few years, this watch still sells for an attractive
price and its resale value is very high.
TOTAL: 90 points
COMPARATIVE TEST: BREITLING VS. OMEGA
A side view reveals that the Speedmaster
isn't quite as slim as it looks when it's
seen face on.
The new Chronomat fits well even on a small
wrist because the lugs curve farther downward
than in previous models.
Simultaneous pressure on two points
releases Omega's folding clasp.
Breitling's clasp is extraordinarily reliable and will
not open inadvertently.
comfortably. Like the rest of the watch, it fits
pleasantly on the wrist. Breitling optimized
the details here: the lugs curve downward (a
detail that's readily visible when the watch is
viewed from the side) so the wristband can
also fit well around a narrower wrist, a feat
that the Speedmaster has always accomplished easily. The Chronomat weighs more
than 200 grams. That's a hefty burden, but
you'll scarcely feel this watch's weight if the
wristband is properly fitted and the watch is-
n't allowed to slide promiscuously around
your wrist. This wristwatch, however, is hardly cuff-friendly. The Chronomat's wristband is
perfectly smooth and soft to the touch, but
the cursors on its bezel are another story entirely. If you're not careful, their sharp edges
might catch on the threads of your sweater.
Pilot's watches almost always have bezels
that can be rotated in two directions, so we
were surprised to find that the bezel on the
Chronomat rotates in only one direction. On
the other hand, unidirectional rotation for the
bezel and water-resistance down to 300 meters combine to make this watch a good
choice for a diver. The Chronomat is more an
all-round companion than a typical pilot's
watch. That's another parallel between it and
the Speedmaster, which was never conceived
as a pilot's watch, despite its illustrious career
in outer space.
As our comparative test neared its conclusion, the Omega was able to compensate for
its slightly trailing position by outdoing the
Breitling in the cost-benefit category. For less
than $3,600, you get a wristwatch that, after
35 long years, confidently ranks among the
timeless cult watches. It will very likely remain
fashionable for the next 35 years too. It's a reliable companion for every day and for a lifetime. The Chronomat's price seems rather
high at first glance, but you'll find ultramodern technology and the utmost perfection in
every detail when you consider the fine-tuning
that's been given to the movement, the elaborately crafted case, and the very high-quality
stainless steel bracelet. If this watch seems too
costly, you can opt for the version with the
leather strap and get yourself a Chronomat for
only slightly more money than you would have
paid for the Moonwatch.
Thus our test ends in a dead heat. A draw.
No victors, but two obvious winners. That's a
rare event in our watch tests. Each watch has
its own specific set of pros and cons, but when
we added everything up, both scored the same
high number of points. Which wristwatch you
choose depends on your individual taste.
A Watchmaker’s Opinion
Master watchmaker Rainer Merath,
Ulm, Germany:
"Two classic pilot watches encounter each
other here. Omega's Moonwatch is surely one of
the most timeless of all pilot's watches. Sleekly
clear design, good legibility, a sapphire crystal
that's antireflective on both its surfaces, and a
legendary hand-wound caliber make it a wristwatch that's avidly coveted by people with a penchant for the myth and romance of aviation. Turning our attention to Breitling's Chronomat Evolution, we similarly find one of the most traditional
watch series in the world of pilot's watches. Mas-
50
WatchTime August 2004
sive construction, water-resistant to a great
depth, contemporary design, and a well-tuned
Valjoux 7750 (Breitling Caliber 13) make the
Chronomat Evolution a reliable and visually appealing companion. Both watches make a good
impression in terms of their wearing comfort and
operability, although the Omega's slimmer case is
more comfortable under a close-fitting cuff. Breitling has created a very ergonomic design that
gives its watch a very comfortable feeling despite
its greater height. Omega's dial is less cluttered
and thus more rapidly legible. Both candidates'
rate results were within chronometer norms, al-
though Breitling's wristwatch evoked greater enthusiasm because it posted
such extraordinarily good
results. This judge couldn't
favor one wristwatch over
the other. I'm enthusiastic
about the Omega because
of its legendary hand-wound caliber and timeless
design. Breitling's Chronomat Evolution, on the
other hand, is an uncommonly water-resistant
wristwatch with a self-winding movement: an excellent tool for daily use by pilots."