No. 3 - Capsule

ISSUE No 3
SEPT 2012
(capsule)
CAPSULESHOW.COM
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TWITTER/INSTAGRAM @CAPSULESHOW
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FACEBOOK.COM/CAPSULESHOW
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WEARETHEMARKET.COM
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80 EIGHTH AVE/№ 202 NYC
RETAIL ALCHEMISTS
For over seven years French husband and wife team Clarent and Carol Dehlouz
have transformed the Parisian retail scene with FrenchTrotters—their carefully
curated, innovative retail environments and eclectic selection of hard to find labels
and products with a focus on craft and quality. Now with several stores in Paris, they
opened a large flagship in the heart of the Marais in late August. We caught up with
Clarent to learn more about his approach to creating the perfect retail experience.
THE
END OF
MINIMALISM
Why Trying Is The New Not Trying
by Ray Siegel
If you wear a few extra bracelets—they call it an arm party.
“They” are the people that we’re meant to look to for advice
on "what's cool." Technically, I'm one of them and I'll be
the first to say it’s getting harder to determine as trends
come and go at a pace that’s more of the day than of the
season.
Two years ago, I’d have said that I think it’s cool to wear the
same thing every day as I was a big supporter of the jeans
and t-shirt thing. I'll still rep that look until the day it dies
(which should be never) but lately I’m seeing way less of
that on the streets and on myself. In place of the plain-old I
see nothing but “arm parties," loud prints (I never thought
I'd see hot rod flames on a Prada chiffon dress) and some
pretty tricked out shoes. It seems we’re all saying, “fuck it!”
by piling it all on at once.
Calvin Klein is alive and well and still putting forth pared
down everything. The wildly popular Celine—though
bold—is inherently minimal in its concept. So what’s
changed? Is it that Lady Gaga and Nicki Minaj secretly coerced everyone to follow suit?
Capsule: Tell us about the new flagship. Why are you opening a new
shop?
Clarent Dehlouz: Our new flagship store is the result of eight years of
developing different projects. We wanted to gather everything under
one roof in order to show a global vision of French Trotters: our multibrand selection for men and women, our own label, which is also for
men and women and all our collaborations. There is also a homeware
corner, as interior decoration and furniture have always been very
important in our concept. We will also have a little kids’ corner. We
needed a big space and were lucky to find it right were we wanted,
on rue Vieille du Temple in the Marais, next to where we had set our
men's store 3 years ago (now closed).
C: Who is your target customer?
CD: Our target is pretty wide. We always try to stay accessible. We
like the idea of welcoming in our store a mix of different kinds of
customers from locals and tourists, hipsters to bobos, and from all ages.
What links all our customers is the love of nice products, well crafted
and with a story to tell.
C: You have such a distinct aesthetic and well-curated brand list. How
do you choose the designers you work with?
CD: We always follow our tastes. We get inspiration from all our travels or simply in our daily life. We like clean design and craft. Simple
products with a strong identity. Nice fabrics and attention to details.
It's also important to mix styles in our selection. From Scandinavian
design to American preppy, Japanese vintage or ethnic style.
C: Will you still be focusing on Made in France and locally produced
products?
CD: Locally-crafted products are very important. It means you have
people close to their production. What is really interesting is when
the production is part of the concept of the brand and using a specific
knowledge. Today our FrenchTrotters label has two lines. One made
in France with the shirts and jackets made in Paris and all the knits
made in Brittany. Our second line is made in India. It's very interesting because it allows us to create our own prints and dye (which we
couldn't do in France). We also work with artisans in small villages for
the embroidery.
C: Who designs your in-house label? What are some best selling items
in the collection?
CD: My wife Carole designs the women’s and I design the men’s. Our
best selling piece for women for SS12 has been our Jackie jacket. Our
customers went crazy when it sold out. We had dozens of requests
since then and we have it back for FW12 with new fabrics (Ikat and
Liberty). For the men, our shirts are very popular. Some our customers
only buy our FT shirts. The cut is narrow but still comfortable and we
use very nice fabrics.
C: Do you have any special collabos or exclusive product lined up for
the launch?
CD: We have our new collection of "FrenchTrotters × Veja" sneakers
with new colors a new style. We have for women our "Avril Gau x
FrenchTrotters" shoe collection. For men our FW12 collection of Alden
"exclusively for FrenchTrotters" with a new last which will be exclusive
to us. We have a special co-branding with Bleu de Chauffe : a backpack, a camera strap and an iPad case. We will also have a collection of
home linen. And many other projects and events...
(continues on back page)
Perhaps we can blame the economy for another social disaster: Tackiness! But it’s a form of tackiness we’ve come to
accept and even like. The recession in 2009 spurred a welltimed “it’s cooler to be broke” trend. A friend and I once
overheard a French woman explaining our undone look to
her friend, “It’s a typical for American kids to dress like
bums, but they're clothes are really expensive.” She was
right on the money. I’d probably hunted through an overpriced bin of white T-shirts for a month before I decided to
splurge on the better fitting $100 one over the $40 option.
Those women would be pleased to know that we’ve gone
back to flaunting like it’s the '80s—only we’ve managed to
be even more flashy. It seems like a direct reaction to those
few depressing years we had. Luxury was put on hold—and
gasp—fashion show invites were printed on cheaper cardstock. Though still in the midst of a recession, we’ve collectively decided to step it up.
There’s been other changes—one being the return of hip
hop to mainstream culture. If you’re listening to the lyrics,
they’re telling you to be a baller. And that anything understated is lame. As for the excess jewelry technique, rappers
are very into that too. His name isn’t 1 Chainz!
I’ve embraced it more than a former plain T-shirt-wearer
ever could. I’ve still got those tees on standby, but right now
I'm rocking Prada car prints with ice like an NBA player.
It’s absolutely a nod to the hip hops gods and to my personal
fortune that's missing a few stacks—or to use the sole term
that hip hop and fashion have in common: Racks.
Ray Siegel is an online fashion editor
@RaySiegel
VIGNETTES
#ingoodcompany
Ryan Kibler is a New York-based freelance photographer and a long-time friend of the
Capsule Community. You might know him from recurring editorial work in publications
like Bullett Magazine and WWD, or perhaps from the infamous GQ.com editorial featuring
Adrianne Ho in UNIS NY. Kibler did a portrait series at the Capsule New York Men’s show
using a vintage 4x5 Polaroid camera. “I come from a generation that is obsessed with
instant gratification. I feel like Polaroid is a modality of that need that holds more weight
than digital snaps. There’s something about the chemical reaction and the molecules
mixing that feels more permanent. I feel like I fight the digital analog battle inside myself
everyday,” he says laughing.
Capsule’s always been about more than just clothes. We’re a community of makers and
shakers and we don’t stop at apparel. This season, Capsule invited some dear friends
to take over small spaces and do their thing. Interspersed throughout the floor will be
experiential environments and installations that are the result of some of the best creative
minds we know going wild doing what they do best. Keep an eye out at the show for more
incredible experiences and spaces.
TUNE IN
Greg Armas, owner of the Lower
East Side boutique and clothing
collection Assembly New York, tells
us about his latest music interests.
Matter at Capsule Men's
>How would you describe your taste in music? Lately it’s
dark waters… I really admire unconventional timing, difficult
sounds, and odd harmonics harnessed into beautiful songs…
It can be really minimal.
>Where/how do you prefer listening to music? I don’t use
headphones because I always lose them but I have to be with
music constantly. If I don’t listen to something (anything) my
brain will just start to play its own radio stations.. not always a
good thing. I have tube amps that I use at home and work and
listen to a lot of vinyl.
SS13: THE BOLD AND
THE BEAUTIFUL
Looking ahead to SS13 doesn’t require searching for the next big trend so much as preparing yourself for when it bangs down the door at Capsule
this season. Everything will be centered around extremes—big prints paired with bigger prints, flowing fabrics extravagantly draped on the body,
and exaggerated silhouettes that will give the wearer an added presence anywhere she goes. Jumpsuits, shorts, and surf details will be big for
SS13, and even basics are taking their role to the next level with plenty of vibrantly colored t-shirts and ultra-crisp white shirts making an appearance. For everybody who is trying to dip into this season by mixing their one “loud” print with a tiny stripe and making sure to coordinate it all
with a same-color solid, this is not your playground. “Go big or go home” never felt so right.
>Where do you go to find new music? What attracts you to
a new song or band? It’s always been friends but now online
services like Grooveshark, and so on can turn you on to someone else's great playlist with tracks and bands you’ve never
heard before. So now it’s Internet strangers as well. Thank
you unsung heroes.
>Do you have any all-time faves? What makes them your
favorite? Reggae, because it has the best intentions.
>How do you select the music you play in your store?
What's playing now? We create playlists democratically
of the employees’ favorite bands and have massive shuffled
playlists. This summer has been a lot old psych/prog/jams like
Sensations Fix and newer good sounds like Regal Degal and
Gary Wilson.
Illustration by Nan Lawson, nanlawson.com
California Dreamin’ - Eddie Hazel
and… - Alex Oriental Experience
Maybe The People Would Be The Times Or
Between Clark And Hilldale - Love
Dam Üstüne Çul Serer - Selda
Shummy Poor Clessford Idea In Tragedy
Taprest Noodles - Staff Carpenborg &
The Electric Corona
Waterfall - Aguaturbia
Pop Electronique No. 1 - Cecil Leuter
Mein Maschine - Cos
YamaYama - Yamasuki
If It’s In You - Syd Barrett
assemblynewyork.com
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Picking Daisies
Daisy McNairy just graduated from high school. But she’s
not your average teen. She’s well travelled and well versed in
the global fashion scene. We asked the 17 year old daughter
and muse of designer Mark McNairy to tell us what she’s into
right now…”I know what I love and I’m pretty set in my ways
right now. Every time I stray, I regret it. I wear and use things
until the last possible minute so quality is essential. I’m also
really lazy when it comes to getting dressed, I often find
menswear more interesting and if something’s not perfect I
won’t buy it. Lately I’ve just been really into just throwing on
my dad’s clothes and calling it a day and then maybe adding
some accessories that remind me that I’m a girl… “
Here’s what’s in Daisy’s closet these days…
Paul Smith tortoise shell frames #294
Supply of white T-shirts
Permanent red nails
Bowers & Wilkins headphones
The perfect black heels
Revlon really red matte lipstick
Nike liberty collection
McNairy black leather Jodhpur boot
Ipod nano wristwatch
Leather wallet with a zipper
Rose gold jewelry from Love Adorned
Sugar Fresh lip product
Black thigh high socks
Printed baseball caps
Naked and Famous jeans
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FRESH FACES
These designers are making their
Capsule debuts
KAHLO - The KAHLO girl finds her identity in impeccably cut,
high quality, slightly androgynous garments that are built to last long
after the current trends become yesterday’s news. Embodying the
personalities of the designers, close friends Fay and Rachelle, KAHLO
represents a philosophy of effortless beauty and power that will serve
its wearer well for many seasons to come. 1
ANTIPODIUM - Geoffrey J. Finch created Antipodium after escaping
his rural hometown for the allure of London’s brash and unapologetic
approach to fashion, finding his niche in a potent combination of sexy
and witty designs. Antipodium is Finch’s ode to the stylish eastLondon set that he welcomed into his studio every day, providing the
inspiration behind his signature “tongue-in-chic” designs. 2
SCA ULVEN - Designers Sara C. Andersson and Marte Ulven draw
from deep roots in Nordic culture for the core aesthetic that defines
SCA ULVEN. The brand is driven by clean graphic forms, exaggerated
silhouettes, a balance of oversized and fitted shapes, and functional
details that proudly reference both of the designers’ Nordic backgrounds. 3
LE MONT ST MICHEL - To say designing runs in Alexandre Milan’s
blood is a bit of an understatement. Le Mont St. Michel is 99 years
strong and counting, and Milan uses the brand’s rich background combined with a love of graphic art and 80’s pop/rock influences to create
a unique, vintage-inspired look that only a centennial brand steeped in
history can truly master. 4
VEDA - Leather pieces are an essential part of any women’s wardrobe;
it’s a miracle garment with the ability to add visible inches of confidence to anyone who wears it. VEDA recognizes the strong appeal and
has built itself to be an ultimate destination for all things leather, from
the perfect leather jacket to the newest innovations in leather designs. 5
MANIAMANIA - Marrying occult imagery with pop culture references, MANIA MANIA accessories is the lovechild of Oyster Mag's
former Art Director and the former Fashion Editor of Russh. Joining
forces in 2009, the duo began designing jewelry that drew inspiration
from their creative muses like David Bowie, Kenneth Anger, and Andre Breton. Their design process involves a combination of sketching
and wax carving, and each piece created with faceted crystals, brass
and soft suede leather is entirely one of a kind. 6
CHAO - Understated elegance has the potential to speak louder then
any seasonal trend, even if it happens to be prints on prints on prints.
Maria Chao aims to reach that potential with simple, subtle designs
that continually explore a balance in the relationship of fashion and
art, which is all reflected in Chao’s minimal yet strong aesthetic. 7
ANAGRAM BY GARY GRAHAM - Anagram is like Gary
Graham’s younger sister—you know, the one who rolled her own
cigarettes and discovered new bands before they even knew they were
good. Playing off of the definition of ‘anagram’ (to rearrange in order
to discover something new), Graham takes key silhouettes from his
signature collection and reworks them with a youthful, eclectic vibe
designed for a more independent, brazen customer. 8
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ALTEWAI.SAOME - Founded in Sweden in 2009 by Natalia
Altewai and Randa Saome, Altewai.Saome strives for an eclectic offering that seeks to explore dimension and depth while still attracting
a trendy, chic crowd. The current collection takes inspiration from
geometric lines and shapes, creating a clean cut look that is both vivid
and powerful. 9
9
PPENING
HA
HAPPENING
W
NO
NOW
25 Years of Reading at Aesop
Aesop is celebrating their 25th anniversary of keeping the
world smelling fresh with “25 years of reading at Aesop”,
a curated collection of books that have inspired the Aesop
team, spread over the past 25 years. Stop by any of Aesop’s
stores to pick up a poster that illustrates the concept and
browse the featured works, as every store will keep a copy
of each book on hand for everybody to touch, smell, and
otherwise try to absorb some brilliance.
LN-CC Vinyl and Audio Shop
LN-CC (Late Night Chameleon Café) is a well-curated destination for everything needed to emulate that lifestyle we
all pretend to live online through obscurely titled fashion
blogs. The concept shop stocks a wide variety of brands
alongside a bookstore and an impressive library of rare
vinyls and vintage audio sourced from Japan. The owner,
Dan Mitchell, has hosted everything from a pop up shop by
legendary record dealer Nick the Record to an exclusive
album release by DJ Harvey, and now, watch out for the
launch of an LN-CC label.
BAD GIRLFRIEND
A Case for Cuteness
Caboodles was the necessary container girls needed to
separate their butterfly clips from their barrettes in the
80’s. Available in a wide range of colors and materials, they
were personalizable, and the hidden compartments inside
were designed to keep tons of tiny treasures neat and tidy.
Now, Caboodles are back for a new generation of obsessive organizers. A re-release lets the modern girl keep
her lipgloss, eyelashes, stickers and other accessories
squared away.
Bad Girlfriend is a New York-based garage rock band who sing about love and
heartache. The band's name, which comes from the phrase, "she's such a nice girl,
but such a bad girlfriend," reflects the struggle many women face between being
a “good girl” or a “bad girl.” We sat down with Brianna Lance, lead singer of Bad
Girlfriend and head designer of reclaimed vintage line The Reformation to talk music
and fashion influences, NYC practice spaces, the blues and Lydia Lunch. >
VFiles × Ebbets Field
Keep it sassy and apathetic with the V Files x Ebbets Field
Flannels Whatever Snapback set. Give one to your angsty
best friend and walk around the mall together. VIA V Files.
Above Tree Line is back for a second
season at the New York women’s edition
of Capsule. The performance-driven
show-in-show delivers functional, outdoor
gear with a fashion friendly slant. From
camping equipment to trekking boots, all
natural soap, classic parkas or cozy socks,
Above Tree Line brings an assortment of
garments and accouterments to keep you
looking fresh in the great outdoors. Be
ready for anything.
C: You design for Reformation full time in addition to your music
career. How do you balance the two?
BL: Poorly! I don't really prioritize sleep, so I'm prone to pouting like a
little jerk. The only thing that makes it doable is that all my best friends
are either in Bad Girlfriend or work at Reformation. My life is like
being in two ridiculous female cults. My only real link to testosterone
is my patient boyfriend.
BL: They are so different. Designing clothes is like being a servant
to woman. You think about what makes them beautiful and what they
want and hope to create something they love. It's aesthetic and thoughful. Music, however, is much more personal and from the depths, like
meditating very loud. Wild, loud meditating with other people.
C: Garage rock made in NYC usually doesn’t happen in garages—
where do you guys practice?
BL: A complete shit hole practice space in Williamsburg. The hallway
always smells of pot and rotten ranch dressing. A garage might be
more glamorous than our practice space.
C: Some of your songs like Boxer and Tricky have some pretty heavy
blues influences in them– where does that sound come from?
Catch the Rainbow
Adding a splash of color to one’s surroundings can now
be done by robot. Dutch artist Edwin Deen has designed a
sprinkler that will make everything within a 5 foot radius all
the colors of the rainbow. Pot of gold not included.
BL: Those songs are basically about the blues, heartache and bitterness. We all listen to so many kinds of music that when we are writing
different things just pop out to fit the mood.
C: Are there any designers that really inspire you right now?
BL: Always! Past and present. Right now, though, I love Chiuri and
Piccioli for Valentino and Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy. Both lines
produce clothes that seem like heightened reality. But I will always
love Karl Lagerfeld. He's such a boss man.
C: Kim Gordon or Lydia Lunch?
BL: Lydia Lunch
C: Leather or Lace?
BL: Both at the same time.
Snap and Go
Never freeze up in front of your friend’s iPhone again. The
Bosco is a free-standing photo booth that sends images
straight to all your social media platforms. "The idea is
to create a self-portrait experience that looks and feels
high-end," says co-founder Nick Fehr. Rent one from its
Brooklyn-based creators and put your face on blast.
Skill Exchange
Visual designer and blogger Kate Koeppel of MiPiaceKate.
com wants to bring back the art of using our hands as tools,
one workshop at a time. The San Francisco based initiative, Skill Exchange, aims to educate on both traditional
and new hand skills, like mending clothing or cultivating
your own urban chicken flock. It’s well worth a class, because you never know when these skills will come in—you
guessed it—handy.
Brianna Lance: Actually, drawing came first. I always took whatever
outlets were available. I have a chaotic brain and making anything
seams to calm the waters.
C: How does designing a dress compare to writing a hook?
Micro Festival
The publishing industry will come together and talk shop
later this year at the Micro Festival, an independent publishing festival held in Milan from October 12-14. Organized
by Marco Nicotra and Giuliana Tammaro of creative agency
La Caffettiera, the festival brings together exhibitors,
external guests, and showcases of zines, live music, and
mini-workshops.
Taste Test
There’s not much left to say after you’ve been named the
top restaurant in the world for two years running. Rene
Redzepi drives NOMA to be the end game for perfectly
created Nordic dishes that serve a dual purpose as finely
crafted cuisine and individual works of art. Now, Redzepi
is adding the NOMA FoodLab to the business to provide
an “experimentarium” where NOMA chefs can continue
dreaming up their masterful dishes, like poached deer
served with foraged ramsons, pickled juniper berries, beet
leaves, snails, chanterelles, and fiddlehead ferns.
Capsule: What came first, music or fashion?
C: Bacon or Tofu?
BL: Tofu
☺
For the full interview check out wearethemarket.com
ART BREAK
Photographer Tell All
NY-based photographer, Sandy Kim, documents all the
messy and intimate parts of being a young artist in New
York—friends, first loves, body parts and all. The oversized
Sky High is a limited edition catalog, created by Unpiano
Books and Evergold Gallery, in honor of Kim’s first solo
show in San Francisco.
Four shows offer a welcome distraction
from the circus of fashion weeks.
London
Nathan Coley: A Place Beyond Belief, Haunch of Venison, 9/7 - 10/3
Gravestones and protest placards find pride of place in former Turner
Prize nominee Nathan Coley’s sprawling exhibition, which investigates the shared currents that underlie both public protest and public
mourning. An installation of recycled headstones, on which the names
of the dead have been removed, is a highlight, along with a series of
black and white photographs taken at social, political or religious gathering sites, and censored with a delicate application of gold leaf.
haunchofvenison.com/103 New Bond St
New York
Richard Phillips, Gagosian, 9/11 - 10/20
Known for his hyper-realistic portraits of pop culture figureheads, including, most recently, his second short film featuring Lindsay Lohan,
Phillips presents new painting and video work in Gagosian’s inaugural
show of the Fall season. No word on whether La Lohan will make an
appearance, but there’s a good chance you might spot her at the afterparty. gagosian.com/555 West 24th St
Roadtrippers
We’ve all been there—that one friend yells “Roadtrip!” and
everybody’s on board to go out and discover the world,
right up until you’ve been on the road for fourteen hours
and the only thing you’ve discovered is even more annoying pet peeves about everyone else in the car. Roadtrippers is a new web-based tool that ensures up to 28 fun
and stress-reducing pit stops along the way to your final
destination. Just plug in your end stop and choose from a
wide variety of exciting attractions along the way based on
the group’s interests, from side hikes to taking an hour to
rest at a secluded beach off the beaten path.
Milan
Peter Lindbergh, Known and “The Unknown”
Galleria Carla Sozzani 9/6 - 11/4
Peter Lindbergh’s monochromatic vision has captivated the fashion
world for over 30 years, and in this two-part exhibition, Galleria Carla
Sozzani offers a selection of 40 iconic, glamorously unsettling images
from his magazine career, as well as a personal project that spans decades of work, representing the photographer’s non-commercial work.
galleriacarlasozzani.org/Corso Como 10
StoreFrontLab
We all know that a storefront gives that significant first
impression of a shop aesthetic with the hopes of drawing
people inside, but it can also be a place of community and
creativity all on its own. StoreFrontLab, based in San Francisco, is building on that idea by using its own storefront
space to host any and all experiments that hold community
interest, from a day-long reading or lecture to setting up an
art installment for a month.
Richard Phillips (top), Sophie Calle (bottom left), Peter Lindbergh (bottom right)
Paris
Sophie Calle, Pour la dernière et pour la première fois (For the
Last and First Time), Galerie Perrotin 9/8 - 10/27
Known for her poetic conceptualism, Calle traveled to Istanbul in 2011
and began this intense project. In the artist’s words: “I went to Istanbul.
I spoke to blind people, most of whom had lost their sight suddenly. I
asked them to describe the last thing they saw.” The haunting results
embody both memory and absence, articulating the gulf that separates
the viewer and the object of their gaze.
perrotin.com/76 rue de Turenne
BPMW
80 8TH AVE/No 202
NEW YORK, NY 10011
TIP SHEET
Just a sampling of what the Capsule
community is bringing for S/S 13.
RETAIL
ALCHEMISTS
(cont.)
C: Are women as attuned to small batch, artisanally crafted clothing as
men have become over the past few years in your opinion?
CD: Women really care about the style before everything else. Of
course they are sensitive to the craftsmanship, especially when it
comes to shoes and bags. But they won't get as obsessed as men can be
about knowing every detail about the garment. Probably because womenswear offers a wider variety and more creativity while menswear
stays a lot more basic and the small details make the difference.
C: Over at Capsule HQ, we are constantly navigating the differences
between the way men and women shop, and relate to clothes via the
Internet. With men’s and women's clothes under the same roof, do you
take different approach to each gender?
CD: Indeed, we really take care of the men and women separately.
Neither one depends on the other. This has always been one of our
strengths — to be as strong with the women than with the men. Both
have a special attention and direction. Carole as the eye for women and
I have the eye for men.
C: Tell us about the décor and vibe for the new store. Who designed
the interiors?
CD: The new store keeps the same aesthetic we have developed in
our other shops. We've been working with the same architects and
put together all the ingredients we like. Wood, 50's inspired furniture,
polished concrete, vintage tiles and cactus! The space is pretty big
(200sq/m) but it is divided in 5 different rooms so it still feels warm.
It's like a big Parisian apartment with high ceilings. The place has lots
of character.
C: What percentage of your customers are international? How important is e-commerce?
CD: We have about 40% of international customers. Many of them
know us through our online store. Our online business as been growing increasingly over the past three years. The web is becoming more
and more interesting today with the emergence of all the social
media which gives a real interaction with our customers. They can
follow the daily life of the stores, our buying and the workshop. We
can really share our concept and spirit through Facebook, Twitter,
Instagram, Vimeo, etc. It's very interesting.
C: Tell us more about your social media activity.
CD: We have a very good team for Internet and our online store.
For the social media, I try to take care of it myself as much as I can
with tools like Instagram, Vimeo, Facebook/Twitter, etc. Updating
with pictures or videos daily. It can be content about the store news,
behind the scenes, our buyings, travels, places we like, etc. Our
customers are very eager for these kind of things! It gives a strong
proximity with people following us and it strengthens our identity.
C: We're embarking on fashion weeks for SS13— what looks and
key items do you think will be most important for next spring?
CD: I feel SS13 is really into the California culture with a lot of
fancy prints. For our own collection there will be strong prints as
well, embroidery, nice fabrics such as crepe, chambray and linen.
Colors will be faded and warm (orange, green, blue, etc). An ethnicchic style with a strong Parisian identity.
C: Over the past few years we've seen the rise of the specialty store
as a global fashion force. Have you seen this happening? What
do you think are the key ingredients for a successful specialty
boutique?
CD: It's all about finding the right alchemy. The selection of product
is of course the main ingredient. The interior decoration and the
display will then be critical to give life to the products. And a good
staff to welcome and advise the customers. The emergence of
specialty stores is not surprising. People want to shop in an environment with a strong identity that will highlight the products they buy.
They are not only buying the product but also the story behind it
and the retail concept. ☺
Frenchtrotters.fr
100% New York focuses on body conscious silhouettes with sexy
draped fabrics. Albertus Swanepoel will be showing his signature
hats, inspired by Africa, street style and music. Expect wider brims
and casual shapes. AltewaiSaome collaborated with Kunoqvist
to produce a collection of sunglasses for women and men. The
designers at Ariana traveled to Cuzco, Peru, to source and develop
unique fabrics for their collection of footwear. A new style is the midwedge. Baggu just opened a shop in Brooklyn, and are launching
a mini surf line in collaboration with Brooklyn surf shop, Pilgrim.
Bedford Street Laundry is inspired by 90s hip hop and streetball.
Beth Richards will feature swimwear and après swim styles with
mesh accents. High waisted bikini bottoms are a must. Spring 2013
brings the 50th Anniversary of Birkenstock’s iconic Madrid Sandal.
Bliss Lau is expanding it's BLISS LAU FINE collection this season
with much more silver and gold, sexy jewelry that can be worn
directly on the body as well as into form fitting leather waist belts.
CHAO collaborated with Swiss born and New York based artist Olaf
Breuning. Christine Alcalay returned to her native Vietnam, and her
SS13 collection is heavily influenced by the trip, and reflections on
her childhood. Cold Picnic is inspired by terrestrial impact craters,
the American Midwest, natural sculptures formed by wind erosion for
their accessories and home lines. Over at Cri de Couer, the influence
for SS13 was a bit PJ Harvey grunge of the 90's, a bit Teddy Girl
of the 50's. Lots of masculine influences but revamped in a feminine
way. Daniel Palillo’s colorful cotton-based collection is inspired by
the Universe. Desideri’s new collection is called Mid Night Dream ,
and crystals, stars and hearts are the main focus, alongside 14k gold
filled , sterling silver , leather and Swarovski crystals. Flotsam and
Jetsam’s new collection is called Aquarian Morning, and all pieces
are an homage to water. Resin adds flowing color to the jewelry or
create liquid transparency. Fresco Towels takes inspiration from
the California lifestyle using indigos, plaids, ponchos, and terry.
Hillary from Collina Strada made her collection of leather bags and
accessories much more girly than usual. A RTW collection of printed
and solid silks is new for SS13. Hyden Yoo was inspired by a 1967
song from Astrud Gilberto, “Bossa Na Praia,” which he considers
a “perfect representation of the feminine hyper-sensual but soft
nonchalance, right before the 70's hit.” The SS13 color palette is a mix
of beach, jungle and urbanism. The patterns and prints in the ISM
Mode collection are hand dyed with hand made dyes. Jenny Grettve
has been inspired by the music of Clara Schumann, the distinguished
19th century German musician and composer. The collection includes
a selection of white floor-length dresses combined with trousers, skirts
and jackets in neon colors and new textures. Rob from Jungmaven
spends his time camping, hiking, and surfing, beaches. His 100%
hemp jersey, hemp/linen blends, reflect his lifestyle. Women’s
is new for SS13. KAHLO’s SS13 collection was inspired by the
artworks of Australian artist Del Kathryn Barton and her intricate
and meticulous technique look for perforated leather clutches and
handbags and a new capsule range of footwear. Lambillotte takes
inspiration from the 1920’s; draped waists, low scooped necklines, a
free, less structured silhouette and plenty of silk and natural fibers.
The team over at Loup are developing new fabrics which they will
share at intimate events and trunk shows. SS13 is influenced by Frida
Kahlo and Henri Matisse paintings, and a French woman traveling
to Mexico by way of New York. The three sisters behind the Swedish
label Minimarket are intrigued by Shangri-La. Earthy tones and
minerals like emerald and chalk built from earth observation photos
of the area where Shangri- La might be hidden, are combined with
fluorescent colors. MACHA is reviving the ‘70s in a 1990s kind
of a way with details from the Toureg Tribe of N. Africa featuring
textures in high polished chrome, braided rings and necklaces and
big sculptural bangles. Miquella offers Swarovski crystal chains
wrapped with leather and silk. They’re opening an accessories
boutique in London in November. Nettie Kent is feeling an ancient
vibe and using different finishes such as an antique gold over bronze
to achieve an old heirloom quality to her jewelry. ORA is debuting a
new line of black diamond friendship bracelets and is experimenting
with bone, shells, wood and unique fish vertebrae pieces. Sagan
Jewelry has a refined punk look, with subtle touches of romanticism.
Featuring gold-filled, antique silver and gold brass mixed with
feathers and semiprecious stones. The designer at Seventhirtyone
looks to Scotland for its beautiful scenery and uses all shades of green
in silks and textured fabrics. Uzi is working with natural textured
fabrics cream, grey and black with pops of brick, wine, blue and red
and have new hand screened prints all sewn in Sunset Park, Brooklyn.
Warmi explores the circus aesthetics in the 20's employing a dusty
yet bold color palette. A contemporary, symmetrical, multicolored
'lace' effect on tops and dresses is achieved with a crochet technique.