The G-Shock Hacker`s Handbook

The G-Shock Hacker’s Handbook
i
License
This work is licenced under the Creative Commons AttributionNon-Commercial-Share Alike 2.0 UK: England & Wales License. To view a copy of this licence, visit
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/2.0/uk/
or send a letter to:
Creative Commons,
171 Second Street,
Suite 300,
San Francisco,
California 94105,
USA.
Version
This is version 0.8 of the book.
Generated: June 21, 2008
Author and Editor
This book was created by Pat Galea.
http://dudegalea.co.uk
ii
Book Information
More information on this book can be found at the book
website.
http://gshockbook.co.uk
Disclaimer
The techniques and descriptions in this book are provided
for information and entertainment. No author or anyone
associated with this book in any way whatsoever takes any
responsibility for any damage that you might cause to anything or anyone.
Use this book at your own risk.
Contributors
Many thanks to all those whose contributions have helped
to create this book.
Brian Green, Buzzbait, Riley, Stan Maynard
Acknowledgements
Watchuseek G-Shock Forum provided the inspiration for
this book.
http://forums.watchuseek.com
iii
Many of the hacks are based on articles from the G-Shock
Wiki.
http://mygshock.com/guide
And of course, thanks to Casio for making those great,
rugged G-Shock watches!
http://www.gshock.com
iv
Preface
G-Shocks (or ”G’s” as they are affectionately known) are not
just cheap plastic watches that can survive a world of pain.
They are also the stepping stone for a huge range of experiments (or ”hacks”). These hacks cover everything from
tweaking the accuracy, to stealthing, dyeing, fitting nonstandard bands, and ruggedizing.
The very fact that G’s are relatively cheap watches makes
them ideal for this kind of experimentation. Imagine dyeing a Rolex just to see what happens, or boiling an Omega
case in a saucepan for twenty minutes because you want
slightly softer buttons. Unthinkable, but these kinds of
activities are performed every day by G-philes all over the
world.
I decided it was about time to bring these techniques together into one volume, which could be read purely for
interest, but also serve as a great starting point for your
own experiments. Who knows, maybe you’ll be inspired
to try something that will appear in a future edition of the
book!
v
vi
Good hacking!
Pat Galea, 2008
PREFACE
Contents
Preface
v
1 Improve Accuracy
1
2 Negative Display
7
3 Strap Adapters
21
4 Zulu strap on GW-5500
23
A FAQ
29
B ‘Atomic’ G-Shocks
31
C Oscillator
35
D Tools
37
Glossary
41
vii
viii
Colophon
PREFACE
45
1
Improve the Accuracy of your G-Shock
G-Shock technical specifications generally state that the
timekeeping accuracy is within ±15 seconds per month.
For most people, even a watch at the edge of that band
will be perfectly acceptable.
However, the technology is capable of much more accuracy
than this. The reason why a brand new G isn’t made as
accurate as possible is because it takes either (a) expensive
lab equipment, or (b) a lot of time to tweak the timekeeping.
Casio is not going to spend that money to get a marginal
improvement that very few people will notice.
Luckily, it is possible to hack the accuracy of your watch
without buying an electronics lab that would make NASA
proud.
Materials required:
1. G-Shock to be adjusted (the “target” watch).
2. Accurate time source (e.g. time.gov or a clock that
1
2
CHAPTER 1. IMPROVE ACCURACY
synchronizes with atomic time).
3. Case opening tools (page 37).
4. Stopwatch (not the G-Shock that is being adjusted).
5. Notepad.
6. Pen.
7. Patience!
Step 1 - Set the target watch time
Set the target watch from an accurate time source (the
“base time”). If you are using an atomic clock as your
source of base time, ensure that the clock has successfully
synchronized within the last twelve hours.
Step 2 - Check the target watch time
You need to check exactly how close the target watch is to
the base time. If you have performed step 1 perfectly, then
you should find that the target watch time is exactly the
same as the base time. You could just try looking at the
target watch and the base time simultaneously, but unless
the time difference is large you probably won’t be able to
spot it this way. So here’s a better way to do it.
1. Look at the base time, and start the stopwatch when
the base time seconds reach 00.
2. Look at the target watch, and stop the stopwatch when
the target watch seconds reach 05.
If you had set the target watch very carefully from the base
time, the stopwatch should now read exactly 05 seconds.
So if there’s any difference from 05 seconds, then the target
watch is slightly offset from the base time.
3
To get the target watch offset, simply subtract 5 from the
stopwatch reading. So:
Offset = Stopwatch reading − 5
For example, if the stopwatch reading is 00:05:20 (i.e. 5
seconds and 20/100ths) then you calculate 5.20 − 5 = 0.2.
So the target watch is running 0.2 seconds slow.
On the other hand, if the stopwatch reading is 00:04:70 (i.e.
4 seconds and 70/100ths) then you calculate 4.70−5 = −0.3.
So the target watch is running 0.3 seconds fast.
In your notebook, write down today’s date and the target
watch offset. (Don’t forget the + or - sign!)
Step 3 - Determine the target watch accuracy
Wait one day, or as near as you can get to 24 hours later.
Repeat step 2.
As the target watch has now been running a day since you
synchronized it, the new target watch offset enables you to
calculate how fast or slow the watch is running.
In your notebook, you’ll now have something like Table 1.1.
Table 1.1: Accuracy chart
Day
Target Watch Offset (seconds)
Monday
-0.1
Tuesday
-0.5
Now subtract the first figure from the second one. In the
example, −0.5 − −0.1 = −0.5 + 0.1 = −0.4. This figure is the
number of seconds the watch has lost in a day. In this
case, the figure is negative, so the watch has gained 0.4
seconds.
4
CHAPTER 1. IMPROVE ACCURACY
Step 4 - Note the target watch accuracy
Write down the date, time, and how much the target watch
gained or lost.
Your notebook will look something like Table 1.2.
Table 1.2: Accuracy chart
Target Watch Change
Offset
Monday
-0.1
Tuesday
-0.5
-0.4
Day
Step 5 - Adjust the trimmer capacitor
Remove the back cover of the target watch. Find the trimmer cap (indicated in Fig. 1.1 on the facing page).
The trimmer cap may be in a slightly different location in
your watch. You don’t have to remove the module from the
case in order to get access to the trimmer.
Turn the trimmer cap about 1/32 of a turn in one direction.
The precise amount doesn’t matter, but it should be a very
very slight adjustment. No advice can be given on which
direction to turn it; depending on the precise position of the
trimmer, clockwise may speed up the watch, or may slow it
down (page 35). Just try clockwise first, and if you find
the change is going the wrong way, next time try counterclockwise.
Now repeat the whole process from step 1, and keep repeating until you are happy with the accuracy. As the watch
gains accuracy, you should make smaller and smaller adjustments to the trimmer each day. It is very hard to judge
these tiny adjustments until you get more experience, so
you may find that sometimes you have gone a little too far
5
Figure 1.1: Finding the trimmer cap
6
CHAPTER 1. IMPROVE ACCURACY
in one direction. That’s fine; the next day, you can just
make a small tweak to reverse it.
You may find that after a while you have to leave two or
three days in order to detect a difference between the target
watch and the base time. You might feel that this is a good
time to stop!
With a lot of patience, and experience, you can end up with
a G-Shock that remains accurate to within a second or two
over the course of several months.
Who needs atomic time?
2
Convert a DW-5600 to Negative Display
Traditionally, digital watches have used LCDs with black
digits on a light background. However, in the last few years
it has become popular to produce “negative display” versions which use light digits on a black background. On a G
with a stealthed black case, a negative display can add a lot
to the overall effect (i.e. significantly reducing the number
of reflected photons!).
The technique presented here for inverting the display of a
DW-5600 can be applied to other G’s using some creativity.
Materials required (see Fig. 2.1 on the next page):
1. Sheet of polarizing film.
2. Plastic tweezers.
3. Spring bar removal tool.
4. Small flat head screwdriver.
7
8
CHAPTER 2. NEGATIVE DISPLAY
5. Some Q-Tips.
6. A surgical scalpel or sharp modeling knife and fresh
blades.
7. A Husky mini screwdriver.
Figure 2.1: Tools required
The watch used as an example for this hack is the DW5600, with a stealthed bezel (see Fig. 2.2 on the facing
page).
Step 1 - Get started
Take off the straps. (You’ll want them out of the way when
you remove the back cover. It will also make it easier to
work on the watch body if they’ve been removed.) Use the
spring bar tool to remove the spring bars holding the straps
to the case (see Fig. 2.3 on the next page).
Step 2 - Remove the case back and module
9
Figure 2.2: Stealthed bezel
Figure 2.3: Removing spring bars
10
CHAPTER 2. NEGATIVE DISPLAY
Carefully remove the four small screws that hold on the
case back (see Fig. 2.4). The Husky mini screwdriver comes
in handy for this. Make sure you store the screws somewhere safe and keep them together.
Figure 2.4: Removing case screws
Remove the metal case back carefully, trying not to disturb
the rubber gasket that creates the watertight seal around
the module (see Fig. 2.5 on the next page).
You should see the rubber spacer that covers and adds protection to the inner module. Remove the rubber spacer using the tweezers for extra grip (see Fig. 2.6 on the facing
page). It can sometimes feel as if it is actually stuck to the
module, but it isn’t; it just gets pressed tightly and sticks a
bit. A gentle pull with the tweezers should remove it.
Now lift out the entire module by one of its edges using your
tweezers. Be patient; there’s nothing holding the module in
other than the pressure of the buttons against the spring
11
Figure 2.5: Removing metal case back
Figure 2.6: Removing rubber spacer
12
CHAPTER 2. NEGATIVE DISPLAY
contacts. If you turn the watch upside down, it might just
fall out on its own! It’s much better if you remove it carefully
rather than allowing gravity to do the job for you.
Figure 2.7: Module removed from case
Step 3 - Remove the original polarizing film
The next step is to remove the polarizing film that is glued
to the surface of the glass. The film is slightly smaller than
the glass and can be seen easily if you look closely. Use the
scalpel to gently lift up the polarizing film a bit at a time.
The trick is to slide the blade between the polarizing film
and the glass (see Fig. 2.8 on the next page).
Take your time and work from one edge of the polarizing film across to the other, slowly pushing the blade of
your knife under more and more while still moving it from
side to side. Eventually you will have the blade under far
enough to lift off the polarizing film (see Fig. 2.9 on the facing page).
13
Figure 2.8: Starting to remove polarizing film
Figure 2.9: Removing polarizing film
14
CHAPTER 2. NEGATIVE DISPLAY
The film is stuck to the glass by a thin layer of tacky glue.
It’s pretty nasty stuff so be patient and it will come up eventually. Lift off the polarizing film using your plastic tweezers (see Fig. 2.10). You can see that the film looks almost
transparent while over the display and the digits are only
visible on the parts of the display that are covered by the
film. Amazing!
Figure 2.10: Polarizing film removed
This is the really cool part. Simply turn the polarizing film
around 90 degrees and as if by magic the digital display
becomes reversed! (See Fig. 2.11 on the facing page.) You’re
not finished yet, because you need a piece of polarizing film
of the right shape to install permanently.
Use the Q-Tips and some Goof Off to clean the tacky glue
residue from the glass and the old piece of polarizing film.
Make sure you get the glass as ‘squeaky’ clean as you can.
It can take several Q-Tips and about 15 minutes to get
15
Figure 2.11: Reversed display
it perfectly clean. The time you spend getting the glue
off as much as possible will be worth it. If there is any
glue residue left on the glass it will show up when you
stick on the new piece of polarizing film and you don’t want
that.
Step 4 - Install the new polarizing film
Take a look at the digital module display using the new
sheet of polarizing film. Fig. 2.12 on the next page shows
the display with the film held in the regular position. The
display is postitive, and you can see the module is still ticking away quite happily.
Rotate the polarizing film 90 degrees just like you did with
the piece that was removed from the glass, and you can see
that the display is reversed (see Fig. 2.13 on the following
page).
16
CHAPTER 2. NEGATIVE DISPLAY
Figure 2.12: New polarizing film in regular position
Figure 2.13: New polarizing film in inverse position
17
Now cut out a piece of the new polarizing film to the exact
shape of the original piece. Make sure that you are cutting out the film with it turned in the right direction. Make
doubly sure you have the film oriented so that it will make
the display look reversed before you place the old piece on
top as a cutting guide. Hint: you can tell when the two
pieces are the right way round because the original piece
that you are using as a cutting template should look completely black (see Fig. 2.14). Notice in the picture that the
display is invisible without the polarizing film.
Hold the original piece of film tightly up to the corner of
the new sheet and gently cut around it using your sharp
knife. Make several slices using medium pressure rather
than trying to cut all the way through on the first pass. By
making several slices you will avoid slipping and hopefully
avoid the loss of any finger tips! Just take your time.
Figure 2.14: Cutting the polarizing film
18
CHAPTER 2. NEGATIVE DISPLAY
Once you have cut out the new piece of polarizing film, hold
it over the display to make sure that it fits and that it will
create the desired negative effect. The film used in this
example is self-adhesive on one side and has a protective
cover on the other. Remove the cover from the self adhesive side and—without touching it—carefully place the new
piece of polarizing film onto the glass screen (see Fig. 2.15).
Use your tweezers for better precision. Gently rub the polarizing film with a soft cloth or clean Q-Tip to make sure
it is adequately stuck down. Then use your tweezers again
to lift off the protective cover from the front of the film. You
should be left with a surface free of smudges and fingerprints.
Figure 2.15: Placing the polarizing film
Step 5 - Put it all back together
The final step is to reassemble the whole thing. Carefully
put the whole module back into the watch casing making
19
sure it it seated down. You’ll probably need to use your
tiny screwdriver to hold in the metal connectors where the
buttons are in order to get the module back in. Replace
the rubber spacer making sure that the protruding metal
contacts poke through. Then replace the metal case back
and four screws.
When the case back is firmly screwed down, flip the whole
thing over and admire your handywork: a beautiful negative display module! (See Fig. 2.16.) Notice how the small
box in the upper right corner of the display is no longer visible. This is one difference between the DIY reverse display
and a factory version.
Figure 2.16: The finished item!
20
CHAPTER 2. NEGATIVE DISPLAY
Figure 2.17: Before and after
3
Use a Zulu strap with Strap Adapters
Many G’s come with a resin strap. However, some people
don’t get on too well with resin for various reasons. The
most common is that resin can get a bit uncomfortable in
hot weather when the strap is tightly fastened.
Strap adapters are available for a number of G’s which attach to the watch in place of the resin strap. You can then
use a Zulu∗ strap instead.
TBD
∗
When you can use a Zulu strap, you can often use a NATO strap
instead. The difference is not relevant to this article, so I refer to ‘Zulu’
throughout.
21
22
CHAPTER 3. STRAP ADAPTERS
Figure 3.1: Strap Adapter
4
Put a Zulu strap on a GW-5500
The GW-5500 is a great looking resin G. Part of the aesthetic appeal is that the resin strap is neatly integrated with
the bezel itself, presenting an almost seamless transition
from case to strap.
Unfortunately, this integration makes it quite hard to use
the strap adapters (see Chapter 3). While it is perfectly
possible to remove the strap and insert the adapters, if you
do that you’ll find that the bezel is no longer firmly held to
the watch body, and can in fact be ripped off with quite a
gentle tug.
It is possible to fit the strap adapters to the GW-5500 while
keeping the bezel secure. However, it does require the destruction of a perfectly good resin strap, so do not attempt
this hack unless you are absolutely certain you want to
do this and you’re sure you have the skill to do it, or
you have a spare resin strap that you don’t mind destroying.
23
24
CHAPTER 4. ZULU STRAP ON GW-5500
Familiarize yourself with the “Strap Adapter” hack (Chapter
3), as that hack is a subset of this one.
Materials required:
1. Spring bar removal tool.
2. A surgical scalpel or sharp modeling knife and fresh
blades.
3. A Husky mini screwdriver.
Step 1 - Remove the resin strap
Unscrew the four screws attaching the strap to the watch
case (Figure 4.1 on the facing page).
Now remove both pieces of the resin strap from the watch
using the spring bar removal tool.
Step 2 - Create some lugs
Figure 4.1 on the next page shows the bits of the strap that
secure the bezel to the case. The red line indicates the piece
that you need to remove.
Using the scalpel, cut the four lugs from the ends of the
straps. Be generous! At this stage, you want to err on
the side of leaving too much material on the lug. You can
always trim it back later if necessary.
Make a note of which lug goes into which corner of the
watch. Once they have been removed, it can be quite hard
to work out which piece is which.
Figure 4.2 on page 26 shows the lugs when they have been
removed.
Step 3 - Attach the strap adapters
25
Figure 4.1: GW-5500 Integrated strap
26
CHAPTER 4. ZULU STRAP ON GW-5500
Figure 4.2: Lugs removed from strap
27
Use the same procedure as described in Chapter 3. Be patient! It is quite tricky at first to get them in place with the
spring bar secured.
Step 4 - Attach the lugs
Take the four lugs you brutally severed from the strap earlier, and use them to attach the bezel securely to the case
using the screws.
Step 5 - Attach the Zulu strap
This is the easy part! Just thread your Zulu strap through
the strap adapters.
The finished item is shown in Figure 4.3.
Figure 4.3: GW-5500 on Zulu strap
28
CHAPTER 4. ZULU STRAP ON GW-5500
A
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. Where can I find the Watchuseek G-Shock forum?
A. http://forums.watchuseek.com
29
30
APPENDIX A. FAQ
B
‘Atomic’ G-Shocks
The “Atomic” G-Shock watches maintain superb accuracy
over extended periods, and can even change to and from
Daylight Saving Time on the correct day. The moniker
“Atomic” is a bit misleading, as the atomic clock itself is actually located in a building some distance from the watch.
However, it is a useful shorthand which is used by G-philes,
and so is used in this book too.
The atomic clock itself is a masterpiece of precision. Rather
than relying upon the tolerance of a human-made device
such as a pendulum, with all its inherent imperfections,
the atomic clock exploits a fundamental physical property
of matter. The property chosen by physicists is the frequency of radiation emitted by cesium atoms in a particular
state.∗
The frequency of the radiation is used as the raw timekeeping source of the clock, exactly as a pendulum is used in an
∗
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atomic clock
31
32
APPENDIX B. ‘ATOMIC’ G-SHOCKS
old mechanical clock, or a quartz crystal in a digital watch.
(See Appendix C on page 35.)
This extremely accurate time signal is then turned into a
digital code which is broadcast from a radio transmitter.
It is this code that is picked up by your atomic G, which
enables the watch to set itself to the correct time.
There are several of these atomic clock transmitters around
the world (see Table B.1). Some G’s can use as many as five
or six of these signals.
Table B.1: Atomic Clock Signals
Location
Frequency
USA (Fort Collins, CO)
60kHz
United Kingdom (Anthorn)
60kHz
Germany (Mainflingen)
77.5kHz
Japan (Fukushima)
40kHz
Japan (Kyushu Island)
60kHz
China (Xi’an)
2.5/5/10/15MHz
Callsign
WWVB
MSF
DCF77
JJY
JJY
BPM
Note that these signals generally use different protocols.† If
you have a watch that can use the WWVB signal in the USA,
then it can receive the MSF signal in the UK, but it can not
understand it unless it has been explicitly designed to do so.
It’s the same as taking a radio receiver from one country to
another; you may be able to receive a radio broadcast, but
unless you have been taught the language in that country
you won’t know what is being said.
That said, many “Multi-Band” G’s are designed to receive
and use more than one signal. They generally do this by
referring to the ‘home city’ that the user of the watch sets.
If you set your home city to New York City, then it will try to
†
A ‘protocol’ is the electronic version of a language.
33
sync with WWVB. If you set your home city to Tokyo, then
it will try to sync with JJY.
In addition, some of these signals are physically close to
each other, so multi-band G’s can try two different signals.
If your home city is London, the watch will try to sync with
MSF first. If that fails, then it will try to sync with DCF77
in Germany. If your home city is Berlin, it will try DCF77
first, then MSF. If your home city is Tokyo, it will try both
the JJY signals.
The maximum range of reception of the signal varies. These
transmitters have different power outputs, and local conditions can have an impact on reception.
Signal reception is generally much better at night than in
the day. That’s why the watch tries to sync overnight, when
a successful sync is more likely. The reason for this nocturnal improvement is the behavior of the ionosphere‡ , the
uppermost layer of the atmosphere.
During the day, the ionosphere is ionized by solar radiation.
At night, this ionized layer becomes a very effective radio
mirror, allowing radio signals to bounce back to Earth. This
is the reason why you can listen to shortwave radio stations
from distant countries at night, even though they cannot
be heard in the day. The radio signals can even bounce between the Earth and the ionosphere several times, allowing
the signal to propagate thousands of miles. If it weren’t for
this bounce (or ‘DX’ as it is known in radio circles), then the
signal would be severely limited in range.
This means that increased solar radiation results in better signal propagation (and thus increased maximum sync
range for G’s). The sun does in fact go through an ap‡
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ionosphere
34
APPENDIX B. ‘ATOMIC’ G-SHOCKS
proximately 11-year cycle of radiation output, known as
the “sunspot cycle”§ (because the greater the number of
sunspots, the higher the radiation).
2008 is at the end of cycle 23 (numbering began in the 18th
century), so is just about the worst time for radio propagation. As the sunspot count increases in cycle 24, the maximum sync range should likewise increase, reaching a maximum in 2013 or 2014. If you want to try for the sync range
record, those are the years to make your attempt! Then
the sunspots should start to decrease again, with cycle 24
ending in around 2019.
Even at sunspot minimum, some impressive ranges are
possible. The Japanese signal JJY can be successfully received in Brisbane and Sydney, Australia, even though they
are outside the official range of the signal. Unfortunately,
atomic G’s have a pre-set list of signals that ‘can’ be received in the different locations, and Casio has decided that
there is no available signal in Australia. So if you set your
home city to Sydney, the G will not even try to sync.
Oz G-philes get around this problem by setting their home
city to Tokyo overnight, allowing the G to sync, then resetting the home city to Sydney the next morning.
§
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunspot cycle
C
How the Oscillator Works
TBD This chapter will explain how the quartz crystal oscillator on the watch determines the timekeeping, and how
adjusting the trimmer cap can change this.
35
36
APPENDIX C. OSCILLATOR
D
G-Shock Hacking Tools
When hacking your G, you could use the tools that you
happen to have lying around on your bench. However, you
could cause a lot of damage to the watch if the tool isn’t
particularly well-suited to the task at hand.
There are specialized tools that are designed for use on
watches. It is always best to use these tools if you can.
Phillips screwdriver
Most sets of small precision screwdrivers will include a crosshead (or ‘Phillips’) that will work on the screws in a G. Don’t
be tempted to use a slotted screwdriver in a cross-head
screw.∗ You may damage the screw beyond repair.
Spring bar removal tool
Spring bars hold the watch band to the case. It is possible to use a small flat-head screwdriver to remove them,
∗
Screw types can be found at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
Screw
37
38
APPENDIX D. TOOLS
Figure D.1: Phillips Screwdriver
but it can be very fiddly to do so, and it also increases the
chances that you’ll damage the case, the band, or the spring
bar.
It is best to use a proper spring bar removal tool (see Fig. D.2
on the facing page, the Bergeon No. 6767F).
Screwback Case Opener
Don’t be tempted to open a screwback case using a pair of
needlenose pliers! You can easily scratch or damage the
case.
Use a proper screwback case opener tool. Some variations
have two adjustable pins, but the better versions have three
(like the one shown in Fig. D.3 on the next page).
Silicone Grease
Use silicone grease on the rubber gasket before sealing the
watch back up after you have been working on it. This will
prolong the life of the gasket, and help to keep the watch
water-proof.
39
Figure D.2: Spring Bar Tool
Figure D.3: Screwback Case Opener
40
APPENDIX D. TOOLS
Silicone grease is also known as ‘dielectric grease’, and you
can find it at auto supply shops.
Scratch Removal Product
These products can be used to remove some minor scratches
in G face crystals.
‘Polywatch’ is one such product, and ‘Brasso’ has been recommended for polishing the crystal.
Glossary
G = G-Shock watch.
G’s = G-Shock watches (and before the apostrophe pedants
complain that plurals are not formed that way, I’m using
“G’s” as an abbreviation of “G-Shocks”, so the apostrophe
is covering the missing letters).
G-phile = A lover of G-Shock watches.
WIS = Watch Idiot-Savant. “A WIS is someone who can be so
distracted by his watch that he fails to note the time.Ӡ
†
Paul Schliesser
41
Index
accuracy, 31
atomic, 31
clock
BPM, 32
DCF77, 32
JJY, 32
MSF, 32
WWVB, 32
misleading term, 31
multi-band, 32
range, 33, 34
Australia hack, 34
record attempt, 34
Brasso, 40
cesium, 31
Daylight Saving Time, 31
dielectric grease, 40
disclaimer, ii
display
negative, 7
positive, 7
DW-5600, 8
expensive watch
insane treatment of, v
experience, 6
face, 40
gasket, 10, 38
geek, vi
Goof Off, 14
gravity, 12
GW-5500, 23
home city, 32
injury
42
INDEX
avoidance of, 17
ionosphere, 33
oscillator, 35
patience, 2, 6, 17
polarizing film, 12
Polywatch, 40
protocol, 32
Q-Tip, 14
quartz crystal, 35
radio
DX, 33
scalpel, 12
scratch remover, 40
screwback case
opener tool, 38
screwdriver, 10
Phillips, 37
silicone grease, 38
solar radiation, 33
spacer, 10
spring bar, 8
removal tool, 37
strap
comfort, 21
NATO, 21
removal, 8
Zulu, 21, 27
strap adapters, 21
sunspot cycle, 34
technical specifications, 1
43
timekeeping, 1, 35
trimmer cap, 5, 35
44
INDEX
Colophon
This book was typeset using the TeXShop implementation
of LATEX.
The typeface is Bookman, 11pt.
45