introducing

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JANUARY - FEBRUARY 2012
INTRODUCING
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JANUARY - FEBRUARY 2012
MEN’S
EYEWEAR
is Hot & Getting Hotter!
Discovering the
Possible
With Vision
Science
Armand van Lingen
Scores as a
Designer
MEN’S FRAMES:
Who’s Zoomin’ Who?
As we move into 2012, the men’s eyewear
market is hot and getting hotter.
W
hat do men want
in eyewear? While
it’s true that some
men still want to blend into the
woodwork, a growing segment of
this market actually wants to use
frames as a signal of distinction,
if not panache. Amin Mamdani,
buyer and vice president of
Josephson Opticians in Toronto,
has noticed that men expect more
from their eyewear.
8
Cover Story
By Paddy Kamen
“Men collect watches, shoes and hats but they don’t accessorize with the face, so frames
are ideal for them. Being men, they still look for functionality, which is a plus because
the same form will not necessarily fit different functions. For example, the urban look for
weekdays won’t suit weekend cottage activities. And this is especially true for sunwear:
rollerblading and sailing require different sun frames and this presents an opportunity to
the optical retailer.”
Envision: seeing beyond | january - february 2012
Mamdani sees a slow but sure increase in the
number of men who consciously chose their
eyewear to make a statement. “I’d say it’s close
to 50 per cent now, compared with over five
years ago when it was about 30 per cent.”
Michael Bohbot, president of Bo Optik, agrees.
“Men today are very different and much more
diverse than they were a generation ago. Men
represent half the population but often have
far less choice in frames than women. This
was due to a lack of product and a bias towards
men being boring. Now men are catching
up to women in terms of spending on fashion, be it in clothing or eyewear. They have
always spent on watches and suits, but now they
want better choices for eyewear and more
distinctiveness and diversity. If you don’t have
a great selection, you may be missing out on
selling multiple frames to a significant market.
Nada Vuksic is an optician and proprietor
of Bruce Eyewear in Vancouver’s trendy
Gastown district. She finds men more willing
to purchase multiple frames for different
lifestyle needs and in order to prepare for that,
she works hard to have a wide variety of frames
available. “We have an equal opportunity
shop for men and women, which means we
have to back that up with a wide range of
product for both genders. As a woman, I easily
know what I like for my female customers.
But at the end of the day I have to exert more
effort in making an amazing selection for men.
I spend more time and care when selecting
for men when I’m at a trade show or with sales
reps.”
Several companies have launched men-only
collections — including Wescan, Tura,
Bo Optik, Alternative Eyewear, Plan B and
Optiq. Others are speaking to men with
distinctive stylings within collections
that also address the needs of women.
But how different are the needs of men
and women? Mehran Baghaie, designer
for
Spectacle
Eyeworks,
created
a
collection for men and daringly offered them
in pink! “They sold out very quickly,” he notes,
explaining that “women are wearing very large
men’s frames but they want them in beautiful
colours they can relate to: wine, red, pink.
This blurring of the gender edges gives my
retro line wide appeal, although ironically,
they were originally designed 100 per cent for
men.”
Mamdani’s opinion is that gender differences
in frame design are indeed widening.
“For women I am definitely seeing more of
the cat eye and upsweep as the biggest trend.
Women frames will be much more feminine,
while men’s frames are becoming squared or
very round.”
“
I see men’s
eyewear evolving
as men become
more aware of fashion trends
and consciously turn
to eyewear as
an accessory that will
enhance their
image.
”
Vuksic agrees. “I’m seeing more gender-specific
styling. While it is true that women can wear
men’s clothing and even eyeglass frames, I find
them happy to have more feminine options.”
Distributed by / Distribué par Importlux 1 800 387-2746
january - february 2012 | Envision: seeing beyond
9
Cover Story
Men’s Eyewear
[ Neo Retro mod. JF1213 ]
J.F. Rey has always spoken strongly to the men’s market, especially those men who
favour an emphasis on technical and design elements. Two techno collections,
Fibres and Airnet, are the latest word from this renowned manufacturer.
The Fibres collection found the design team turning fiberglass and carbon into an
elegant weave. “Featherweight, industrial and elegant,” are perfect descriptors for
this subtle collection, where industrial design is reinforced by muted colours in
tobacco, navy blue and silver. The frames are definitely masculine.
Airnet is the first J.F. Rey collection to use ultra-thin stainless steel, providing
outstanding lightness. Tiny holes on the temples bring integration with the wearer’s
skin tone.
J.F. Rey models JF 2410, JF 1217, and JF 1213 are Canadian bestsellers, available at
J.F. Rey Eyewear Canada.
[ Gridiron mod. Half Back ]
Paul Storace, president of Alternative Eyewear and Plan B has two collections
for men: one a conservative, football-themed collection, Gridiron, and the other
an edgy, metrosexual collection, Headlines™. “Headlines represents the very
wearable side of edgy, for men from their mid-20s up to middle age and up.
The older guy who knows he is still young will choose this brand, which is a mix
of really cool plastics along with pure titanium. This collection speaks to a sweet
spot in the marketplace because it is definitely not slumming for the man who buys
high-end, while the quality is there for the young man who wants to look like a
million bucks,” notes Storace. “Plus we have eye sizes deep enough for progressives.”
The Gridiron collection suits the older gentleman who needs a larger fit
(with 58-60 eye sizes) in a high-quality frame priced in the low-mid range.
“Everyone needs a 58 eye size titanium semi-rimless on the boards,” notes Storace.
“This collection offers many solutions to fitting problems and for those who are
allergic to nickel. When comfort, fit and price take precedence over fashion,
Gridiron is there and does extremely well.”
[ mod. Sidero 2 ]
12
You may remember Parasite as the company that, a few years back, launched
strange-looking futuristic frames with temples that cling to the side of the head.
Parasite continues to lead in a ‘techno-organic spirit’, with cyber-punk frames
known as Sidero. While still uber-cool, Sidero will appeal to a wider audience, with
new models featuring a glossy polyamide front and metal temples. These elegant
and edgy frames for men come in sophisticated colour blends and will soon be
available with bored lens mountings.
Envision: seeing beyond | january - february 2012
Cover Story
Men’s Eyewear
[ Jhane Barnes mod. Molecule ]
Bo Optik is one company that has responded to the market with a strong showing of brands
just for men. “Since the fall of 2011, we have launched KHI Eyewear, Lunettes L’AMY and
Penguin to complement Jhane Barnes and Safari. These five lines give us the broad range
required to satisfy both dispensers and consumers,” says Michael Bohbot. “Penguin is our
newest launch and has a very retro look that fashion-forward men crave. Lunettes L’AMY has
the French European flair and style. KHI Eyewear is for the entry-level professional, Jhane
Barnes is our high-end product offering, and Safari has been our go-to product for the large
man since 2001. Each of these brands is strictly for men, with the exception of L’AMY.”
Jhane Barnes and Penguin are brands heavily involved in clothing. The other three are optical
only. “All are built on excellence in quality and design and with 75 styles over 400 SKUs (stock
keeping units) across the spectrum, we are positioned to satisfy this important market that
represents a big percentage of frame revenues,” says Bohbot.
Spectacle Eyeworks’ Mehran Baghaie has created a stunning collection of acetates
in retro styles for men. In addition to the bold, feminine colours previously
mentioned, Baghaie explains that most of this collection is offered in beautifully
subtle, natural colours that are very tactile, just begging to be touched.
While still offering a pure wood collection, Baghaie’s new pieces look and feel like
wood, “which opens a new avenue for everyone,” he explains. “They have a grainy,
natural look, with a rough polish. The green one looks like horn and the brown
model looks like wood. I wanted to continue with very clean retro shapes.”
[ mod. Shayan ]
Baghaie has named the pieces after his two sons, Thomas and Shayan, in addition
to one with his own first name, Mehran. The family grouping is complemented
by Penn, after his favourite actor, Sean Penn. “We’ve made Sean Penn part of the
family,” he quips. Banking on retro to stick around for another four to five years,
Baghaie’s approach is to take the genre sideways. “Retro is very specific. These new
styles are definitely in the genre but have their own distinct character,” he notes.
Mizyake Couture offers men an opportunity to make a fashion statement with
expressive designs that aren’t outrageous, says Richard Allen, vice president of sales
for distributor Optika Eyewear. “Men are very focused on quality when selecting
frames and Mizyake has superior quality in hinges, plating and materials. They’re
made of super-lightweight stainless steel for comfort and durability in high-end
designs.”
[ mod. 4156 ]
10
Allen notes that the Mizyake Couture collection appeals to all age groups.
“We offer bold acetates for the younger market, along with frames that give
excellent lens depth for progressive wearers.”
Envision: seeing beyond | january - february 2012
Cover Story
Men’s Eyewear
[ Blac mods. Abbey and Hammerhead ]
[ mod. Marvin ]
[ mod. MR176 ]
Eyecare professionals will be pleased
to know that hard-to-fit men are
well served by the Michael Ryen
collection from Cenoco. With a wide
range of sizes, the collection offers
plenty of choice in both trend-setting
and traditional styles. Each frame is
made of quality materials, including
titanium and Mazzucchelli acetate
from Italy. Spring hinges ensure
comfort. MR-176 boasts a square
Mazzucchelli acetate front with the
trendy geek look now so popular with
men, while MR-171 sports a laser-cut,
semi-rimless front. A small section of
the temple is bent over the hinge and
inset with openwork chrome metal,
which serves to lighten the look on
the face.
Prisme Optical Group offers some
of the most stylish brands – Orgreen,
Cogan, Façonnable – with strong
styles for men. They also represent
Bellinger, the Danish tour de force,
led by the husband and wife design
team, Claus and Malene Bellinger
Diederichsen. Within the Bellinger
collections is Blac, said to be the first
frames made totally of carbon fibre.
This collection is specifically for men.
The design element is very strong,
uber-masculine and fascinatingly
sophisticated. A must-see.
[ mod. Équinoxe ]
14
Envision: seeing beyond | january - february 2012
Designed in Switzerland by optical
professionals, the Götti collection
offers strong masculine models
within a mixed-gender collection.
“The design of Götti glasses always
has a harmonic and coherent
look,” says design director Thomas
Frischknecht. “We dispense with
fancy details while maintaining
distinctive accents on each frame,
which makes it an unmistakable
Götti. All models are extremely
wearable,” he adds.
The two-man Götti operation that
began in Switzerland in 1993 has
grown into a company of 48 employees
with an American presence in Winter
Park, FL. Product is available at
high-end optical shops in 37 countries.
Götti SWITZERLAND won a 2012
iF product design award (a Danish
award established in 1953) for its Fons
sunglass style.
Henry Jullien launched Equinoxe at
Mido 2011, marking the arrival of the
first model in the collection known as
Les Urbaines. This acetate and metal
frame for younger men is designed
and manufactured completely in the
Jura region of France, where Henry
Jullien has been making fine eyewear
for over 90 years. A second collection,
Les Signatures speaks to the
impressive history of the brand.
Here, gold-filled frames in classic
styles are made with the finest
materials.
Cover Story
Men’s Eyewear
[ mod. EF272 ]
[ mod. 5640 ]
Joe Nadler, president of Optik Frames, offers
the bold and contemporary Respec Collection
to men with a self-assured fashion sense.
“These are men who care about their
appearance and understand that eyewear is a
statement of one’s personality and style,” notes
Nadler. “I see men’s eyewear evolving as men
become more aware of fashion trends and
consciously turn to eyewear as an accessory
that will enhance their image. This the perfect
time to present the Respec collection, with
styles that will appeal to men from 25 and up.”
The Eyefunc collection from Optique Levy
features 40 different models for men.
President Georges Levy describes his
collection as, “fierce, edgy and hot.” These are
manly shapes with trendy urban temples and
funky styling, as the name suggests. EF276 is
a current bestseller, as is EF307P. “The colours
have really helped to make this collection a
big success,” says Levy.
Also look for elegant men’s frames in the
Borsalino collection, which is just now being
introduced to North America by Levy. “There
are 20 men’s styles in this luxurious line,
handmade in Italy with 100 per cent Italian
material,” says Levy. “Each frame has its own
serial number.”
[ mod. 7063 ]
Optik Innovision brings some striking
designs forward for the fashion-conscious
man. Allegro Plus 4139 has a retro vibe,
mixing new with older elements to great
effect in acetate and metal. Allegro Plus
7063, with angular cut-outs on the temple,
gives an edgy masculine look in four colour
combinations. And half-eye frames such
as Allegro 5318 convey a confident charm
in a rectangular shape with subtle temple
designs.
1-855-281-5777
HOLY FASHION GROUP
strellsoneyewear.ca
january - february 2012 | Envision: seeing beyond
15
Cover Story
Men’s Eyewear
[ TuraFlex mod. M892 ]
While also carrying the German-designed TITANflex for the upscale male shopper, Tura has
a 20-year history with one of the first memory metal products: TuraFlex. James Ahola, sales
manager for Canada, says, “The lightweight titanium alloy with its unique flexible properties
struck a chord with the typical male buyer. And while the memory metal offers great
advantages it also has some inherent design limitations, the main one being that it does not
allow for great detail work or embellishments as desired in typical feminine frames. Because
of this TuraFlex quickly evolved into a strictly men’s line for the average male who could not
care less for embellishments or funky colours.”
Two best-selling TuraFlex models are M861 and M868. These are both generous frames
with a comfortable vertical measurement. The M868 is a semi-rimless with a simple design
cues of rolled metal. The M861 has a pinstripe design cue. “These sell well because they are
lightweight, have some style without being over the top, and are affordable,” notes Ahola.
[ mod. Herman ]
Le Groupe Optique Plus from Holland brings the De Stijl collection across the pond with
great aplomb. These are architectural pieces inspired by the aviation industry and made
without screws or welded hinges. Stainless steel is the material of choice for all metal
components and comfort is taken for granted. Extremely durable colours are an outcome of
the manufacturing technology and four colours are offered on each of 11 models for men.
[ Skaga mod. 2388 Kim ]
Look no further than Scandinavian Eyewear for men’s frames with a rich tradition of
craftsmanship blended with materials and technology that are very on-trend. Skaga is the
brand and Skaga Originals, designed by Sighsten Herrgård, are attracting a lot of attention.
Models for early 2012 are inspired by glowing skies and crystal formations. “We have been
making men’s styles in the Skaga collection since 1948 and release 48 new styles every year,”
says Nils Fredriksson, sales manager for North America.
[ mod. Isaac ]
Swiss fashion design house Strellson comes to Canadian men via Mark Altow and
optician Karen Tarshis. Strellson Eyewear Canada brings this Euro-style optical and sunglass
collection forward, presenting warm masculine colours in the finest metals and high-end
acetates. Real wood components are found in the patented ‘switch it inside’ segment.
“The products have a cool, modern, retro “60”s vibe yet stay grounded in Strellson’s overall
Euro look and feel,” says Altow. “The eyewear is a natural extension of the Strellson brand and
we’re very excited to bring it to Canadian retailers.”
16
Envision: seeing beyond | january - february 2012
[ mod. F3A71 ]
Wescan Optical is releasing Evatik Sunwear
this February as an encore to their highly
successful Evatik ophthalmic collection for
the stylish urban male. Eighteen models in
stainless steel and acetate feature diverse eye
shapes from rectangular to aviator and beyond.
“Masculine elegance” is a term used to describe
this collection, which is inspired by both
fashion and performance. “Men’s eyewear
can traditionally be divided into two distinct
categories: fashion and technical,” explains
Beverly Suliteanu, creative director and vice
president of product development. “By marrying
cutting-edge technology with fashion-forward
styling, Evatik Sunwear defies convention and
offers today’s urban male the ultimate accessory
to express and enhance his personal style.”
Are today’s men getting what they want in
eyeglass frames? Are more of them confident
enough to let their frames do the talking? Let’s
see how they see themselves in the new frame
offerings for 2012.