WWB - Scoop International

92/ S C O O P
wwb-online.co.uk
S C O O P / 93
wwb-online.co.uk
Scoop
The UK’s most directional womenswear show
is returning to its glamorous location of the
Saatchi Gallery, once again offering an exclusive
mix of art and fashion.
2-4 August 2015
Saatchi Gallery
London
Opening times:
Sunday: 9.30am – 6pm
Monday: 9.30am – 6pm
Tuesday: 9.30am – 4pm
Now in its 10th season, Scoop is undeniably the premier
destination for directional ready-to-wear, accessories, footwear
and lifestyle products, bringing together the cream of homegrown designers, exclusive niche collections, emerging labels
and international brands in the unique setting that is the
Saatchi Gallery.
Scoop’s ethos of presenting fashion against a backdrop
of cutting-edge art as well as its hand-picked edit of collections
– personally selected and curated by the show’s founder,
Karen Radley – is the key to the success of the event, which
regularly attracts buyers from high-profile boutiques and
department stores.
This season’s Scoop is offering visitors an even stronger
portfolio of brands, with over 250 labels presenting their latest
collections at the show. Regular labels not to miss include the
likes of Sargossa, Samsoe Samsoe, Hudson Shoes, J.Lindeberg,
Indi & Cold, Samantha Sung, Madeleine Thompson,
Hoss Intropia, Duffy and more, with many solely exhibiting
at Scoop.
However, part of the event’s huge appeal is its wealth
of new exhibitors each season, and s/s 16 doesn’t disappoint.
Among the brands making their debut at the show are Chupi,
Solillas Luxe, Kreis Couture, Kirstin Ash, Marcha Huskes, Sita
Murt, Antik Batik and Conditions Apply. Turn the page to see
WWB’s edit of the new faces not to miss, as well as an exclusive
interview with the designers behind some of Scoop’s most
exciting labels.
While at the show, don’t forget to check out the current,
acclaimed exhibition, Pangaea II: New Art from Africa
and Latin America, which will be in situ during the show, and
presents a collective of 20 African and Latin-American artists
featuring a variety of artwork styles and techniques.
uuu
94/ S C O O P
wwb-online.co.uk
S C O O P / 95
wwb-online.co.uk
COSTER COPENHAGEN is one of the top brands in the Danish womenswear arena. The brand’s
figurehead, Pia Coster, wanted to deliver the best fashion for modern, forward-thinking girls between
25 and 40, and has achieved just that with a collection that confidently mixes raw and feminine details.
Hand-knitted sweaters are a personal passion for Coster, and are among the brand’s bestsellers.
SIYU
COSTER COPENHAGEN
Scoop
New faces
SIYU Founded in 2008, Siyu’s origin was an Art Deco graphic design sheet found at a Madrid flea
market, and the brand is heavily inspired by the Bauhaus and the arts and crafts movements. The
signature style is based on a crafted design look, with the product selection ranging from bikinis through
scarves to shirts, blouses, trousers and handkerchiefs. Clean cuts and a timeless signature that doesn’t
follow trends define the range.
LAMB 1887 is a handbag label launched in 2011 by London designer Charlotte Lamb, who created the
brand with a busy woman in mind. Working in the City as a lawyer, she saw a gap in the market for
practical and yet trend-led designs. The result is a range of glamorous pieces inspired by the likes of
Sophia Loren and Jackie O, made from the finest leathers around.
MERCY DELTA is the brainchild of fashion agent Katie Lightfoot and designer Winnie Lee. The girls
roamed the world looking for influences, which resulted in the creation of a range of scarves, stoles and
wraps in super luxurious fabrics. More recently, the label has branched out into dresses and tops,
designed to suit every occasion.
SUD EXPRESS
LAMB 1887
SUD EXPRESS was founded in 1987 in France, specialising in the manufacture of ready-to-wear,
feminine lines. An established force in its home market, with over 150 points of sale, the brand is
venturing further afield and making its debut at Scoop.
LULU GUINNESS
LULU GUINNESS needs no introduction. The designer has been at the forefront of the fashion scene
for decades, and her quirky signature has fans all over the world. The designer’s s/s 16 Eye-cons collection
draws inspiration directly from Lulu’s own sketchbook. The all-seeing eye, doodle snake print and
lipstick motif combine to create a collection that offers a glimpse into the designer’s ongoing fascination
with the human face.
PROJECT AJ117 Melting together a bunch of creative “people places” in a small house at the Freeport
area of Copenhagen in 2011, the idea behind Project AJ117 was to create a “state of mind” brand with
timeless and everyday essentials to form a casual and cool look. Scandinavian design traditions and
simplicity meet Italian workmanship, culminating in a “need to have” luxury collection.
HARRIS WILSON
PROJECT AJ117
MERCY DELTA
HARRIS WILSON Parisian brand Harris Wilson specialises in clothing that’s easy to live in and relaxed,
anywhere, anytime. Soft materials and timeless cuts sum up the signature style, offering a touch of
colour and printed fabrics every season.
uuu
S C O O P / 97
wwb-online.co.uk
THE ODELLS Californian brand The Odells has mastered a sexy, buoyant vibe with its quintessentially
West Coast designs. Founded in 2014, the contemporary label’s aim is to bring a laid-back feel to
elegant and feminine clothing. Featuring slouchy pants, draped tank dresses, printed tunics and multicoloured separates, the pieces go from day to evening in effortless style.
HENRY BEGUELIN
THE ODELLS
Scoop
New faces
CHARLOTTE SPARRE
96/ S C O O P
wwb-online.co.uk
HENRY BEGUELIN In the early 80s, a group of friends on the Italian island of Elba started to assemble
belts and bags in natural cowhide and recycled materials. This pastime soon took a professional turn,
and now the brand is well known for its timeless pieces, crafted by hand with ancient mastery. In
addition to belts and handbags, the label now also produces shoes and even furniture, and has expanded
into clothing and cashmere knitwear.
CHARLOTTE SPARRE started her collection as a range of silk scarves, and now offers a complete
clothing line. Helena Christensen, Naomi Campbell and Cara Delevingne have all modelled for the
Danish designer, who is stocked in over 200 stores worldwide.
IVORIES
IVORIES Italian womenswear line Ivories designs classic yet contemporary wardrobe staples that are
not tied to seasons because they themselves are “out of the time” – an Italian skill and way to conceive
fashion. Thrown together or mixed and matched, Ivories is the go-to brand for relaxed separates.
FEATHER & STONE
FEATHER & STONE is a London premium accessories label owned by friends Marina Gorman and
Mia Robinson. Having worked in high-end fashion for years, the duo offers an exclusive collection of
beautiful statement scarves and delicate jewellery inspired by the designers’ own photographs from
travels around the world.
PICCIONE PICCIONE
PICCIONE PICCIONE Italian brand Piccione Piccione is making its debut at Scoop this season, with
an ultra feminine collection based on impeccable craftsmanship and vibrant prints. The range offers a
full selection of day-to-evening styles using luxurious fabrics.
PERNILLE CORYDON Danish designer Pernille Corydon’s jewellery collection is inspired by
Copenhagen, which holds a special place in her heart. The style is summed up as Scandinavian simplicity,
with pieces that are meant to be utilised and lived in.
CLEO B
PERNILLE CORYDON
CLEO B is a premium designer of statement shoe clips, sneaker accessories and footwear. Known for
its bold colours and practicality, Cleo B also offers a collection of heels, boots, sandals, wedges
and flats. Mixing-and-matching the brand’s eclectic range of accessories is the perfect way to
personalise footwear.
uuu
98/ P E O P L E
wwb-online.co.uk
P E O P L E / 99
wwb-online.co.uk
Scoop
The designers
MARIA SRIPHA TATE
HEAD OF DESIGN, THREE FLOOR
MARIA VAZ
DESIGNER, ALPHAMOMENT
What is your background?
Three Floor was established in 2011 – born from a desire to provide
contemporary, premium luxe fashion, made accessible to a wider audience.
The label is family owned and was founded by Yvonne Hoang. After
working in the industry for over 30 years at the supplier end, Yvonne
decided it was time to make the next step, by setting up her own label
creating her own customer base without the confines of price targets. Like
Yvonne, I have been working in the industry for 20 years from high-street
to mid-designer brands – which now brings me to Three Floor, where I am
overseeing a great design team.
What is your background?
My background is in visual arts and fashion design. From a young age, art
and design played an important role in my life. After graduating from the
fashion design course I had my first internship at a knitwear company, soon
followed by a postgraduate degree in fashion marketing and collection
planning. I later went on to study art and theatre in New York, while
working as a stylist and creative manager at Fashion Weeks and other
fashion events. I also worked as an interior decorator. Alphamoment was
founded by André Costa in 2013, and I joined the design team in 2014.
WWB catches up with the creatives behind some of the most exciting
labels at August’s Scoop.
MARCHA HÜSKES
DESIGNER, MARCHA HÜSKES
What is your background?
I always wanted to be a designer. As a young girl I used to draw pictures of
girls in pretty dresses. I was good at making things with my hands, and it’s
also why I love the craftsmanship of creating beautiful things. It’s a passion
and an addiction. I went on to study fashion design at the famous Dutch
Art Academy in Arnhem, Holland.
PERNILLE CORYDON
DESIGNER, PERNILLE CORYDON
What is your background?
I’m a trained social worker, but I have always had a passion for art and
design. I’m a self-taught jewellery designer and started up my brand seven
years ago.
How would you sum up the signature of your brand?
Scandinavian simplicity inspired by life.
How would you sum up the signature of your brand?
Feminine, minimalistic, sophisticated and timeless. Made to be worn many
seasons. Every collection is a product of my passion for craft and fabrics
enforced by intelligent design. I create minimalist beauty – a state in which
fit, form and fabric reflect a woman’s attitude and unleash her pure beauty,
inside and out.
What inspires the collections?
I’m inspired by everyday life. The pulse from cities around the world, from
nature and architecture to the people I meet or observe from a distance. I
find my inspiration everywhere.
What inspires the collection?
Women and the world around me. Nature, emotion and art. Space, volume
and texture.
What has been the biggest milestone for your label so far?
It makes me happy that women from all over the world like my jewellery.
And I really like to see how different types of women combine my designs
to make their own personal look. This is a great joy for me and matters
more than anything else.
What has been the biggest milestone for the label?
Overall, I am proud that the Marcha Hüskes label is growing every season,
and that I, as a designer, am able to do what I do best – making beautiful
things. It is a privilege to love your job so much.
What can buyers at Scoop expect from the range?
We are very excited to show the new collection at Scoop – it’s a premium
trade show in a beautiful setting. We believe the Marcha Hüskes collections
will be a great success in the UK and Ireland as the women are very fashionconscious, aware of their femininity and stylish. My new range is very
tactile. I want to create a relaxed feeling and attitude within structured
garments. The fabrics and colour card are the inspiration.
What is your favourite piece from the collection?
It is a dress designed with an amazing jacquard jersey from my favourite
Italian jersey supplier, a real eye-catcher.
What can buyers at Scoop expect from your s/s 16 collection?
Some pieces from the new range are inspired by Copenhagen. The city
holds a special place in my heart. It’s a metropolis that has retained its soul.
The heart of the city in particular – Copenhagen central station – draws me
in with its dynamic nature. Here, all manner of people meet; they leave,
they arrive, they say their goodbyes and they are reunited once again, over
and over. My new collection is also characterised by this dynamic nature.
New ideas and shapes have been included, and old ideas have taken new
forms. One thing is unchanged, though – life is still my greatest source of
inspiration. A ring in the new collection is inspired by my grandfather and
the ring is very dear to me – naturally I named it Grandpa’s Ring.
What are your favourite pieces in the collection?
My favourite designs are the love sign and Grandpa’s Ring, of course.
How would you sum up the signature of the brand?
The Three Floor look is centred around a bold aesthetic; vibrant, confident
and edgy. We are known for contrasting luxe fabrics in statement colours,
with a playful approach to texture and attention to detail. People are always
pleasantly surprised by the craftsmanship of our garments when they see
them in-store. We offer an uncompromising approach to quality and
design. That is our main signature.
What inspires the collections?
Bloggers, editors and off-duty models are a continued source of inspiration
for our design team. There is always the feeling to keep building on our
foundations. Stories and colour palettes come and go, but consistency is key.
What has been the biggest milestone for Three Floor so far?
It is very rewarding to see our pieces being worn on a celebrity or by the
everyday woman. I spotted a lady in Mayfair wearing one of our dresses,
and it made me realise that Three Floor has a wider appeal. Our woman is
strong, yet undeniably feminine.
What can buyers at Scoop expect from your s/s 16 collection?
Lots of dresses, but a wider, yet focused selection including more longer
lengths. The shapes are cleaner, effortless and more accessible, while inkeeping with the classic Three Floor signature.
What is your favourite piece from the collection?
It’s hard to pick one. Our Net mesh trench coat, which is very clean in its
design, features an added element of surprise at the back. I also love our
Seascape dress, which is classic Three Floor in its appeal.
How would you sum up the signature of your brand?
Alphamoment is a label for empowered women who like to express their
individuality through the way they dress and present themselves to the
world. It merges contemporary, bohemian and eclectic influences from all
over the globe, resorting to ancient artisan techniques that result in a
unique and authentic product.
What inspires the collections?
Inspiration comes from different aspects of our everyday lives, which are as
eclectic as the collection themselves. Be it from personal experiences or
specific themes that resonate with our universe, taste and way of being. For
s/s 16, we are taking cinematic masterpieces as the motto.
What has been the biggest milestone for your label so far?
Definitely being featured on WWD as Best in Show at Enk Vegas and on
WGSN in its Key-Pieces segment for a/w 15. Having such renowned
publications select our collection from many incredible brands was a great
achievement for us; almost as a reassurance that we’re on the right path.
What can buyers at Scoop expect from your s/s 16 collection?
Our s/s 16 range revolves around five different movies –The Beach, Black
Cat White Cat, Out of Africa, The Sheltering Sky and The Doors. Each of
these movies has a special meaning and connection for us, setting the pace
for the different themes of the collection. Buyers can expect a carefully
curated collection, with handmade embroidery, jacquards and techniques
such as tie-dye and dip-dye spread throughout key garments.
What are your favourite pieces in the collection?
One is an ivory embroidered bomber jacket with flower detailing on the
sleeves and chest – part of the White Cat Black Cat theme. The other is a
pair of silk flare pants with handmade embroidery, as well as sequins with a
flower pattern.