You won`t want to leave

Transcription

You won’t want to leave !
eco-tourism
zero carbon
holidays
getting away
mountain
thrills
in the
pyrenees
top tips
unique
guest houses
for under
100 €
weekend
breaks
all year
round
city breaks
© J.J. Saubi
guest
Born in Algeria, ex-diving champion and former Art Deco
student Michel Trama hadn’t planned on a career in haute
cuisine. But meeting his wife Maryse set him on a new
path. In 1974, they opened Parisian bistro Sur le Pouce.
Four years later and wanting to get out of the capital, they
found themselves a few miles from Agen, with a country
guest house in the pretty medieval village of Puymirol. A
revelation. Since then, the small guest
house has become a part of luxury
A good dish to start the
hotel chain Relais & Chateaux, and
holidays?
the chef at Les Loges de l’Aubergade
Something very simple: a roast
trawls the markets of Lot-et-Garonne
chicken with a few wild mushrooms
each week in search of the very best
and potatoes, or a salt-crusted sea
bass with a fresh vegetable ratatouille.
and the unexpected.
Michel Trama:
I love the sea. I head towards Cap-Ferret
or Biarritz. I like the wild beauty of the
sea on the Basque Coast. There’s room to
breathe, it’s very beautiful.
A place to eat lunch?
Le Tram’s in Agen. It’s run by my son
Dominique and has colourful decor and
a young atmosphere.
Restaurant
"Chez Hortense"
The food is fusion
cuisine, ranging
from the traditional
blanquette de veau
to Chinese dishes.
In the Bassin
d’Arcachon, I love the
famous moules frites
at Chez Hortense,
served right at the
water’s edge.
The Aquitaine I love.
Which market is worth a look
around?
I’m a huge fan of the farmers market
in the Place du Pin in Agen. The
products are beautiful and fresh, the
producers don’t cut corners. I find
great vegetables, little miniature
dandelions, poireaux de vignes
(Mediterranean wild garlic), wild
strawberries to die for...
© OT Périgueux
One of your favourite walks?
n Les Loges de L’Aubergade
52 rue Royale – 47270 Puymirol
Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 95 31 46
www.aubergade.com
© F. Perrogon
And for dinner? Le Carré Gourmand,
near Agen. This old manor house, set in
traditional grounds, is run by a former
head waiter from l’Aubergade. The chef
cooks traditional cuisine with good local
produce: langoustine salad, grilled
cuttlefish with ventrèche, plum and
pineapple ratatouille...
I know I’d have trouble
resisting the Hôtel du
Palais in Biarritz: the
elegant surroundings,
the rooms with unbroken
views of the sea... It’s
divine!
© CRTA/J.J. Brochard
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n Restaurant Le Trams
ZAC Agen sud – rue du Trech
47000 Agen
Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 98 48 14
www.letrams.com
La Toscane Française
en Lot-et-Garonne
Will you ever feel like leaving
Aquitaine?
I’m a great walker, I love wandering the Lot-etGaronne countryside. I take the sun and the clear
autumn light with me, as well as the smells that
change with the seasons, like the scent of wild
mushrooms as the days get shorter... I couldn’t
live without it!
© CRTA/A. Béguerie
...and to sleep?
n La Ferme de Souleilles
Yves et Geneviève Boissière
47140 Frespech
Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 41 23 24
www.souleilles-foiegras.com
n Restaurant chez Hortense
Avenue du Sémaphore
33950 Lège-Cap-Ferret
Tel. : +33 (0) 5 56 60 62 56
www.chezhortense.fr
n Restaurant Carré Gourmand
2 Rue Montalembert – 47550 Boé
Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 95 22 22
www.carregourmand.com
n Hôtel du Palais
1, avenue de l’Impératrice
64200 Biarritz
Tel.: +33 (0)5 59 41 64 00
www.hotel-du-palais.com
n Marché fermier
Place du Pin – 47000 Agen
OPEN ACCESs
IN THE CRADLE
OF HUMANKIND
32
© Biarritz Tourisme - Le Doare
© Préhisto Parc
GOING
WITH THE FLOW
© CRTA/L. Reiz
6
15
ACTIVE
HOLIDAYS
edito
It’s often said that there’s a bit of everything in nature. Well, without doubt, there’s a bit of everything
in Aquitaine. Only three hours from Paris by TGV, the plan is simple: enjoy yourself.
Discover a chateau and vineyard with your children, drift along the still waters of the Dordogne in a canoe, party on the
Bordeaux waterfront, stay in an eco-stamped hotel, go in search of Basque pie noir pigs in the Pyrenees, get stuck in in the
kitchens of a great chef, walk the Way of St. James... with this brochure, the Aquitaine Regional Tourism Committee invites
you to explore the countless faces of a region that’s a great place to come to recharge your batteries at any time of year.
Can’t get enough of it? Join our website www.tourisme-aquitaine.fr or like Tourisme d’Aquitaine on Facebook!
4 children
Fun and games in the vineyard
12ECO-TOURISM
Zero carbon activities
15Discovery everyone’s
Welcome in the Cradle of Mankind
19FOOD
“Get stuck in”
etting away
21 gMountain
thrills in the Pyrenees
ity break
24cFour
seasons in Aquitaine
country
29WIn ine
Bas-Armagnac
ell-being
30 WSoothing
retreats
itness
32fActive
holidays
portfolio
6
Discovery
Going with the flow
shopping
26 Historic brands
Accommodation
14ECO-ToURISM
Eco-stamped accommodation
20budget chic
Unique stays for under 100 €
plus
2
guest
Michel Trama tells us about his Aquitaine
18mystery quiz
How well do you know Aquitaine?
27 RECipeS
© Getty Image
LEISURE
Traditional dishes from the region
34 HORoSCOPe
for your holiday
35 MAP of AQUITAine
Brochure edited by the Aquitaine Regional Tourism
Board: Cité Mondiale - 23 parvis des Chartrons CS 31759 - 33074 Bordeaux Cedex - France; Tel.:
+33(0)5 56 01 70 00 - Fax: +33(0)5 56 01 70 07. Web:
tourisme-aquitaine.fr. Design, production: Citron
Pressé - Editor: SLS Conseil - Illustrations: Yann
Hamonic - Printing: Laplante. Document printed
on certified PEFC paper from sustainably managed
forests under control chain no. FCBA/10 - 01295 Page 20: prices indicative for 2011..
3
familyactivities
Médoc, Duras, Entre-deux-Mers... Discover Aquitaine’s vineyards en famille:
while you taste the vineyard’s wines in the company of the wine maker or cellar
master, your children can enjoy exciting treasure hunts among the vines and have
fun in areas designed especially for them.
It’s also a good chance to learn more about the culture surrounding wine and its
moderate consumption.
Fun and games
A short way from the Chateau de Duras
which dominates the Dropt valley, the Maison des Vins de Duras, in collaboration with
Cap Sciences, has devised a hands-on educational space for all ages called “the keys
to the vineyard”: on arrival you will receive
two questionnaires, one for the parents, the
other for the kids. What time of year was
this photo of the vineyard taken? What is
that fruity smell? Sight and smell are put to
the test, and it’s not always the oldest who
have all the answers...
The visit continues outside with a walk
through the Vine Garden to “see for yourself how vines are grown” and to learn to
distinguish the sauvignon or cabernet franc
grape varieties.
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Another vineyard, but still the same desire
to welcome all the family.
At Chateau Cablanc in Saint-Pey-de-Castets in Gironde, uncover the “Secrets of
Have your children caught the bug? Take
them to visit Annick and Gille Pons, wine
makers in Casseneuil, also in Lot-de-Garonne. Wait, who is this character inviting
you to follow her into the vineyard, which
makes Vin de Pays d’Agenais wine? It’s Ludivigne, looking lovely with vine leaves for
her hair. From display to display, she will
accompany you as you discover the land
© CRTA/Château Cablanc
Wake up your senses on the
Duras coast
different seasons. “Our aim
in creating this tour was to
give children something
to do around the farm,”
explains Annick Pons. It’s
mission accomplished every
year from May to September:
at the beginning of the walk the
children are enthusiastic and don’t
hesitate to ask questions while their
parents taste the wines we grow.
Grape juice tasting
Educational tours with Ludivigne
© Lou Gaillot
“Dad, what are you drinking?”
“Daddy, what are all these barrels?”
“Mum, when are we going?”...
While most wine makers today are
open to adults, offering cellar tours
and tasting of the wines produced on
the property, these traditional visits
are rarely very exciting for children.
In Aquitaine, some wine makers understand this. Hands on exhibitions,
educational tours and treasure hunts
mean you can take advantage of the
region’s numerous vineyards during
your holiday to introduce your children to the world of wine growing
and the work done by wine makers
through the seasons.
© Maison du vin Côtes de Duras
in aquitaine’s vineyards
that gives the grape varieties their characteristics and the jobs to be done in all the
the Valley” a fun walk guided by a family
of European mink. Some individuals of this
rare and endangered species actually nest
on the lands of the Chateau du Bordelais.
The circular walk begins outside the cellar
and each child wears a pouch around their
© Castillo de Agassac
waist carrying crayons and
worksheets with games, codes
and other puzzles to solve. Back at the cellar, it’s tasting time: “we make it a game right
up to the end: While the adults get to know
our wines, the youngsters taste grape juice,”
explains Daniele Debart, wine maker. “It’s
also an opportunity to raise awareness of
the risks of excess consumption of alcohol.”
Learn while having fun
© Planète Bordeaux
Make the most of your stay in Entre-deuxMers by stopping off at Planète Bordeaux in
Beychac-et-Caillau. This unique location,
20 minutes from Bordeaux has a dedicated area for children with an animated
Interactive tours at Chateau d’Agassac, Médoc.
film showing the four seasons of the vine,
early learning games and books to get to
know the land and the work done on it.
Each child can then put their senses to the
test: sight through looking at colours; smell
with scented displays; touch with wood and
cork; and finally taste by tasting two grape
juices made from the same vines as the
wines being tasted by their parents. They fill
in a wine tasting initiation sheet and leave
with a young taster’s certificate. This handson educational experience has been singled
out by the International Best Of Wine Tourism, another good reason to pay it a visit.
Save the princess
from the dragon’s claws
On the other side of Bordeaux, south of
Médoc, another adventure is waiting for all
the family at Château d’Agassac, a treasure
trove of tales and legends with its needlelike towers, conical roofs and water-filled
moats. Kitted out with iPods loaned for the
duration of the visit, your children have a
mission: to free the princess of Agassac,
held captive in one of the towers for centuries by a dragon. The audio and video clips
immerse them in a medieval universe, and
the best part of all is that on completing the
quest they are awarded a certificate making
them a knight or princess of the Domain of
Agassac.
Who said a visit to a vineyard in Aquitaine
was boring for the children?
All the visits cited are offered
in French and English.
n Maison des vins de Duras - RD 668
47120 Duras - Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 94 13 48
www.cotesdeduras.com
n Domaine Lou Gaillot Annick et Gilles Pons - « Les Gaillots »
47440 Casseneuil
Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 41 04 66
www.lougaillot.com
n Château Cablanc
33350 Saint-Pey-de-Castets
Tel. : +33 (0)5 57 40 52 20
www.chateaucablanc.com
n Planète Burdeos - RN89 - Sortie 5
33750 Beychac-et-Caillau
Tel. : +33 (0)5 57 97 19 36
www.planete-Burdeos.fr
n Château d’Agassac
15 rue du château d’Agassac
33290 Ludon-Médoc
Tel. : +33 (0)5 57 88 15 47
www.agassac.com
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by Laurent Reiz
PortFolio
After a career as a photo-journalist
with GEO, Laurent Reiz chose to devote
himself to another view of landscapes.
He began producing postcards,
photographing the locations and spaces
under different light conditions and at
different angles. Estuary, river, pool,
lake or current, Laurent Reiz gives an
original view of the ever-present water
in Aquitaine.
Going
with
Whether it’s a river in Penne d’Agenais,
Lot-et-Garonne (top photo)
or a lake in Sanguinet in Landes,
water is present in many forms in Aquitaine.
In the port at the feet of the hillside village
of Penne d’Agenais, hire a gabarot
– a small flat bottomed boat – to sail on the
Lot. Meanwhile, the 5 800 hectare Lac de
Sanguinet offers a wide range of activities,
from bathing to kite surfing
and waterskiing.
the flow...
Viewed from the Quai de Queyries in Bordeaux, on the north bank of the Garonne,
the façades of the Port de la Lune are at their most beautiful.
Designated as a world heritage site by Unesco, the magnificent array
of eighteenth century façades shines in the morning sun, providing an ideal backdrop
for a lunch on the terrace or a visit to the colourful Sunday market.
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by Laurent Reiz
PortFolio
Below the newly renovated Art Deco building housing the Musée de la Mer,
the Rocher de la Vierge (top photo) is one of the must-see attractions of Biarritz.
Shaped like the prow of a ship, it was used as an anchorage point for the port of
refuge planned by Napoleon III. But the fickle sea had other ideas.
Cross the footbridge built in the Eiffel workshops and lose yourself in the vastness
of the landscape before you: on one side, the bay of Biarritz and its long beach,
on the other the Plage des Basques and the line of the Pyrenees in the distance.
In Bayonne, the Quai de l’Amiral Jauréguiberry is bordered by seventeenth century
houses. Built on stilts on the banks of the Nive, they have beautiful
half-timbered façades in Basque red, yellow, blue and green.
Find a seat on one of the restaurant terraces at the waterside and admire the
Moulis house, the most striking of them all, on the corner of
Rue de la Poissonnerie.
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by Laurent Reiz
PortFolio
At the heart of the Lot valley,
the walled town of Villeneuve-sur-Lot
is located half way between Fumel
and the confluence of the Lot
and the Garonne at Aiguillon.
The stone Pont de Cieutats has
the unusual feature of two small arches
dating from the thirteenth century
on the left and one large arch constructed
in the seventeenth century on the right.
Cross it on foot to enjoy the beautiful view
of the quays bordered by tall houses,
reflected in the Lot, and visit the chapel
of Notre-Dame-du-Bout-du-Pont,
raised by boatmen to implore
the clemency of the river.
8
Two other such sentinels, two cabanes tchanquées are to be found
in the middle of the Bay of Arcachon on the Ile aux Oiseaux. These houses on stilts
have replaced an authentic cabin built by an oyster farmer to survey his oyster beds,
inspired by shepherds who stood on tianques (stilts) to watch their sheep.
You can view these cabins all year round without disembarking
by taking a boat tour of the Ile aux Oiseaux.
by Laurent Reiz
PortFolio
The true watch-tower of the Dordogne river, the Chateau de Beynac,
is one of 1001 chateaux in the Dordogne valley. Around ten kilometres
from Sarlat-la-Canéda, it towers over the picturesque alleys of
the medieval village of Beynac-et-Cazenac at the heart of the Périgord Noir.
From the cliff-top it continues to defy the fortress of Castelnaud perched
on the opposite bank of the Dordogne.
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by Laurent Reiz
PortFolio
Half way between Sarlat-la-Canéda in Périgord Noir
and Bergerac in Périgord Pourpre,
the Dordogne offers a magnificent spectacle,
carving out a large meander in the tranquil countryside.
To admire the curve of Trémolat – from the name of the
village nestled on the eastern side of the loop –
take the route des cingles which climbs
through the forest of oak and pine bringing you
to the neighbouring curve, that of Limeuil.
A trip in an Amazonian dugout canoe?
No problem!
You will be carried along by
the Courant d’Huchet,
one of several coastal rivers in Landes
flowing directly into the sea.
Leaving the Lac de Léon, board a galupe – a
traditional flat bottomed boat –
and let yourself be guided by one of the
exuberant boatmen between rushes, lilies,
weeping willows and maritime pines.
In this gallery forest, a designated nature
reserve, you may even cross paths
with an otter or grey heron...
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by Laurent Reiz
PortFolio
11
ECO-Tourism
On foot, by bike, by canoe, by paraglider, or again by galupe,
marvel at the unending riches on offer in Aquitaine. All while
taking your time and protecting the environment from any
pollution.
L eisure
activities
Zero-carbon 1
sun. It’s already time to pick up your paddles again and be carried downstream to
the castles of Castelnaud-la-Chapelle and
Beynac-et-Cazenac.
Dordo g n e
Kayaking
on the Dordogne
Have fun discovering the landscapes of the
“valley with 1001 chateaux” (and the prettiest villages in France!). Take to the water
in Carsac-Aillac, a few miles from Sarlat-laCanéda, capital of Périgord Noir. On your
right, water lilies and lotus flowers bloom in
the Carsac Water Gardens. A little further
on, admire the Chateau de Montfort, dominating the curve of the same name.
After a few more twists and turns you will
be able to make out the walled village of
Domme, perched on a 150 metre high cliff.
As a grey heron takes to the air, continue
your voyage to Roque-Gageac. Why not
stop off for a picnic in this picturesque village? Between cliffs and river, the pale limestone houses glow golden in the Périgord
Perigord Noir distric tourism office
« La Balme» - 24220 Beynac-et-Cazenac
Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 29 43 08
www.cc-perigord-noir.fr
2
Lot - e t - Ga ro n n e
Cycling the
Garonne canal towpath
© Stand Up Paddle Perigord
Your bike ride along the cycle path that runs
alongside the Canal des Deux Mers begins
in Castets-en-Dorthe, 10 km from Langon in Gironde. While barges wait to pass
through lock no. 53 (the first on the canal),
get on your bike and set out on the 87 km
route crossing the department of Lot-etGaronne.
Km 20: The first stop of many, the balconyvillage of Meilhansur-Garonne offers
New in Perigord Noir:
a unique view over a
stand up paddle
beautiful loop of the
boarding
Garonne.
France’s premier centre
Km 22: leave the towfor stand up paddle
path to visit Gens de
boarding on rivers opened
Garonne, where you
in 2010 in Cénac-etcan see a 3D film titSaint-Julien on the banks
of the Dordogne. A new
watersport derived from
surfing, stand up paddle boarding (or SUP) is practised
on long, wide, very stable boards with a large paddle.
Fun, easy and accessible to all, it’s an ideal way to
discover the charms of the Dordogne.
12
© CRTA/L. Reiz
n Stand Up Paddle Périgord - Le Couderc
24250 Cénac-et-Saint-Julien - Tel.: +33 (0)5 53 30 34 58
www.sup.perigord.com
led “La Garonne sous toutes ses Couthures”
(Garonne in all its guises). This is also a
chance to see the “au cœur des crues” (at
the heart of the floods) exhibit, a narrated
and interactive exhibit sharing the lives of
the inhabitants of the Garonne Valley, to
the fickle rhythm of the floods.
Km 40: after crossing the lush Garonne
plain with its well watered crops, the cycle
path comes alongside the river once more
at Le Mas d’Agenais, an attractive village
with its church, Saint-Vincent, and charming wash-house.
Villeton, Damazan, Buzet-sur-Baïse, Montesquieu, Sérignac-sur-Garonne...There are
numerous opportunities for stops before
you reach the terminus of this bike ride: the
canal bridge in Agen.
Gens de Garonne
47180 Couthures-sur-Garonne.
Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 20 67 76
www.gensdegaronne.com
www.canauxdumidi.com
3
Landes
Boating
on the Courant d’Huchet
To the north of Moliets, in the Landes, take
to the water with a boatman in a galupe, a
traditional flat bottomed boat, and float
1
ECO-Tourism
5
down to the sea from the Lac de Léon.
While your guide steers the boat through
the luxurious vegetation of this nature
reserve – the Courant d’Huchet is also
known as the “Amazon of the Landes” – immerse yourself in this mysterious and spellbinding environment, and look out for the
local wildlife: a purple heron watching
a fish here, a tree frog or oscillated
lizard there... Perhaps you will even
catch a glimpse of a European mink,
an endangered species.
4
©
CRTA
/A.
Bég
uer
Pyrenees-Atl an ti qu es
Walking
the Ways of St James
All roads lead to Pyrénées-Atlantiques!
It’s here, in the Basque and Béarnaise
countryside, that the four great pilgrim
routes to Santiago de Compostela converge:
the Arles, Le Puy, Tours and Vézelay routes.
Signposted in 2009, the Piémont route (GR
78) is a variant of the Arles route which
connects Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and
Lestelle-Bétharram in seven stages.
All along this historic route, you can enjoy
a magnificent panoramic view of the peaks
of the Pyrenees, while passing through
remarkable sites of historic or natural
interest: venture deep inside the stalactiteand stalagmite-filled caves of Bétharram,
admire the bell tower in the medieval village
of Bruges, pass through Oloron-SainteMarie at the confluence of the Ossau and
Aspe mountain rivers, visit the hispanomoresque church, L’Hôpital-Saint-Blai,
designated a Unesco world heritage site,
and stop off in Ordiarp, a natural balcony
overlooking the Pyrenees..
The adventure begins with climbing the
highest dune in Europe: in front of you
stretches the blue of the Atlantic Ocean,
broken only by the constantly shifting Banc
d’Arguin, the biggest sandbank on the Aquitaine coast. Turn around and admire another ocean, that of the vast pine forest. Then,
like Mathilde Seigner in the film Camping
2, take off together with your professional
instructor and discover the Bay of Arcachon as you’ve never seen it before: fishing
ports, oyster beds, the Cap-Ferret headland
with its lighthouse, the Ile aux Oiseaux with
its two stilted cabanes tchanquées...
A little further on, your instructor will show
you Teich Bird Park, a natural conservation
area which welcomes numerous wild birds.
Only the rush of the sea breeze in your ears
and the cries of the gulls accompany you.
La Teste-de-Buch tourism office
Place Jean Hameau
33260 La Teste-de-Buch
Tel. : +33 (0)5 56 54 63 14
www.tourisme-latestedebuch.fr
Description of the itinerary at
www.rando64.fr
2
© SMAVLOT 47 – F.Mansiet
© CRTA/L. Reiz
3
ie
G i ro n d e
Paragliding
on the Dune of Pilat
© CRTA/L. Reiz
Bateliers du courant d’Huchet
370, Berges du Lac - 40550 Léon
Tel. : +33 (0)5 58 48 75 39
www.bateliers-courant-huchet.fr
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4
13
ECO-Tourism
With around twenty hotels and campsites bearing
the European green flower eco-label (a sign of
environmental quality for tourism businesses),
Aquitaine is the top region in France by number of
certified tourist establishments.
A selection of
eco-stamped accomodation
© Lucky studio
sprinklers, rubbish sorted for compost...
Everything is done to make sure you spend
your holiday as close as possible to nature.
While your children look for plants and insects with materials provided by the campsite, take part in excursions exploring the
Landes region.
n Espace Blue Océan – avenue de la Plage
40440 Ondres. Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 45 31 40
www.espaceblueocean.com
Hotel Ville d’hiver
Arcachon
Renovated with an ecological design, this
old water company factory, built in 1884,
was transformed into a hotel-restaurantspa in 2009. Warm and refined, the 12
bedrooms are decorated with furniture
designed by Bordeaux cabinet-maker
Charles-Henri Poirier. In the wine bar,
savour an organic wine before enjoying
traditional cuisine made from ingredients
from the day’s market. Continue these
moments of pleasure in the spa, where
you will be pampered with Dr. Hauschka
natural cosmetics..
© Camping Les Vagues
Just 300 metres from the sea and long sandy beach, you can stay in a haven of peace
between the pine forest and the residential quarter of Biscarrosse-Plage. Your room
opens onto the garden, and the restaurant
boasts local produce and seafood on its
menu and caters for vegetarians and other
diets. Close to the hotel, footpaths and cycle
routes are waiting to be explored.
Camping Espace
Blue Océan
Ondres
© Camping Blue Ocean
n hôtel - Restaurant Les Vagues –
99 rue des Iris - 40600 Biscarrosse-Plage
Tel. : +33 (0)5 58 83 98 10
www.lesvagues.com

© Camping La Rivière
Hotel Les Vagues
Biscarrosse-Plage
n Hôtel Ville d’Hiver – 20 avenue Victor Hugo
33120 Arcachon. Tel. : +33 (0)5 56 66 10 36
www.hotelvilledhiver.com
© Camping Eskualduna
At this seaside campsite between Hossegor
and Bayonne, environmental protection
can be seen all around: the pool is heated
by solar power, rain water collected for the
14
Camping-hotel
restaurante La Rivière
Eyzies-de-Tayac This is the product of a meeting between
the Dalbavie family, owners of a former
post relay on the banks of the Vézère and
architect Charles Widmann, a specialist in
bioclimatic buildings: together, they made
the gamble of combining a thousand-year
history with a forward-looking energy policy. Under the gaze of Cro-Magnon man,
become an “eco-tourist” by checking in to
either the campsite or one of the six hotel
rooms.
n Camping-hotel-restaurant La Rivière
Famille Dalbavie – 24620 Les Eyzies-de-Tayac
Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 06 97 14
www.lariviereleseyzies.com
Camping Eskualduna
Hendaye
Camping Eskualduna, Hendaye
Between Hendaye and Saint-Jean-de-Luz,
the 330 pitches of Camping Eskualduna
have an exceptional location on the clifftop road, opposite the Domaine d’Abbadia,
a natural conservation area of 64 hectares
bordered by cliff plunging into the sea. In
this green haven at the feet of the Pyrenees, discover the traditions of the Basque
Country and cycle to the beautiful Hendaye
beach, only 2 km from the campsite.
n Camping Eskualduna – route de la Corniche
64700 Hendaye - Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 20 04 64
www.camping-eskualduna.fr
Discovery
At the heart of 400 000 years of human history,
the Pôle International de la Préhistoire (PIP) welcome centre
can be found in Eyzies-de-Tayac, world prehistory capital.
This surprisingly modern yet reassuringly tranquil building reveals
the Vézère valley’s universal heritage, rich in major prehistoric sites,
15 of which are on Unesco’s list of world heritage sites..
Everyone’s welcome
O
in the
pen since July 2010 and designed by architect Raphaël Voinchet, the Pôle International de
la Préhistoire’s new welcome centre in Eyzies-de-Tayac is nestled in the countryside
between cliffs, vegetation and rivers. Surprising in its modernity and perfectly in
tune with its surroundings (in a Natura
2000 classed sensitive site), this 150 metre
long two storey building is the ideal starting point to plan your journal through the
Cradle of Humankind.
Your welcome to the Pôle
International de la Préhistoire
On arrival, you are given a personalised
welcome in multiple languages to get to
Cradle
of
know your interests and guide you through
this remarkable place. Throughout your
tour, you will enjoy privileged access to all
the resources in the Vézère valley and to
the many cultural and educational activities
offered by the Pôle International de la Préhistoire.
It’s time to begin your journey into prehistory. Take the inner “lane” through the
welcome centre and head towards the permanent “Prehistory – Vézère Valley” exhibit. An innovative display gives you a first
glimpse of life in the time of Cro-Magnon
and Neanderthal man: frescos and reconstructions of prehistoric humans (by artist
Elisabeth Daynès), films on giant screens,
3D touch screen models. Information
Humankind
boards are also provided to help you to plan
your trips in the Vézère valley.
Next, head down to the ground floor, home
to exciting and original temporary exhibits
(following Robert Doisneau’s photos of the
Périgord, the new PIP welcome centre has
welcomed the “Close your eyes to see prehistory” exhibit, a tactile display in the dark).
Flints, jewellery and a lamp in
the National prehistory museum
After leaving the Pôle International de la
Préhistoire welcome centre – access to
which is free –, slip into the guise of an
archaeologist on the dig site at the “PréhistoFouilles” workshop (booking required):
The Pôle International de la Préhistoire’s
welcome centre fits in perfectly in the village
of Eyzies-de-Tayac...
15
Discovery
Préhisto Parc, Tursac.
2
A view of the troglodyte site of La Roque Saint-Christophe..
6
© CRTA/B. Bloch
© Jacques Henri Baumel
5
1
5
Visiting Abri Pataud in Eyzies.
6
The PIP’s reading room..
there, you will learn more about how the
remains brought to light tell the story of our
illustrious ancestors.
natural bumps and hollows of the rock to
emphasise the relief and shapes of the animals represented.
To see most of the items discovered in the
Vézère valley, return to the National prehistory museum near the welcome centre.
Lecture-visit
at the Abri du Poisson
Aside from the numerous flints on display,
you can admire the magnificent shell jewellery found in the La Madeleine child burial,
or the red sandstone lamp discovered in the
Lascaux cave.
Magdalenian
artist-painters
at Font de Gaume
Does the documentary on the wall art of
the Font de Gaume cave make you want to
be there? On the way out of Eyzies heading
towards Sarlat, the last original cave with
polychrome paintings open to the public is
waiting for you in the Beune valley (access
limited to preserve the site, best to book). A
designated world heritage site, it is famous
for its incredible representations of reindeer, bison, horses and mammoths. This set
of friezes shows the attention to realism of
the Magdalenians, true artists who used the
16
Make the most of your time at Font de
Gaume by singing up for a lecture-visit of
the Abri du Poisson, the only way to see inside this unusual cave which owes its name
to one of the world’s oldest know representations of fish to date. Are you amazed
by the metre-long engraved and sculpted
salmon? Why not come back to the prehistory welcome centre for a quiet moment
of contemplation in the beautiful reading
room, where you will have digital access to
thousands of publications, reviews, DVDs
and other electronic resources on prehistory.
The 10 caves of
the Castel Merle valley
It’s time to head further up the course of the
Vézère in search of Neanderthals and CroMagnons. If you have children, stop off at
the Préhisto Parc in Tursac, with its life-size
reconstructions of scenes from the lives of
these prehistoric humans.
Then leave the tourists circuits for a while
to explore the smaller Castel Merle valley
(or Vallon des Roches), one of the densest
concentrations of prehistoric deposits,
with ten caves (abris) having been counted
here. With the booklet available in the welcome centre, discover the five caves open
to the public. Every year in June and July,
you can also observe a team of archaeologists performing research at Abri Castanet at the mouth of the valley. Complete
this tour of the countryside by joining in
with some educational activities (spear
throwing, flint knapping) and visiting the
Sergeac museum’s rich collection of prehistoric tools..
Lascaux, the most striking
cave paintings
Continue up the Vézère to reach the star
attraction in your trip, Lascaux. Although
the original cave is off-limits to the public,
the life size model faithfully reproduces the
wall art. On the curved, limestone covered
ceiling, the pigments have kept all their original intensity and the spectacle is striking.
© CRTA/L. Reiz
2
© Préhisto Parc
1
Discovery
4
3
A painting in the Lascaux cave
4
Reconstructions of prehistoric humans in the PIP..
8
7
The troglodyte site of La Roque Saint-Christophe.
8
Spear-throwing workshop in the Castel Merle valley.
While you’re at Montignac, make a detour
to the Regourdou site, only 500 metres from
Lascaux: a Neanderthal burial of more than
75 000 years old was discovered there, the
oldest burial known to date in the western
world.
15 000 years of prehistoric
habitation at Abri Pataud
On your return to Eyzies, make a final stop
at Abri Pataud, a unique place to learn how,
through stratigraphic excavation we can
study the chronology of a prehistoric site
over thousands of years. Each stratum is
numbered, dated and accompanied by arte-
facts corresponding to the culture described. For example, take a look at level 4, rich
in pieces of jewellery, pearls and pendants
as well as in pebbles.
A final pause in this packed programme?
Find a seat on the terrace at the centre of
the prehistory welcome centre and enjoy
the view: On one side, the water garden, on
the other the overhanging cliffs. A mellow,
verdant place to slowly come back to the
twenty-first century.
.
© Isabelle Daumas-Castanet
7
© CRTA/L. Reiz
3
Useful
information:
n
Prehistory welcome centre
30 rue du Moulin
24620 Les Eyzies-de-Tayac
Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 06 06 97
www.pole-prehistoire.com
Opening hours:
n 15th May to 15th September: every
day from 10 am to 6 pm.
n 1st October to 14 May: every day
except Saturday, 10 am to 5 pm.
n Closed 1st may, 25th December and
1st to 31st January.
Architect Raphaël Voinchet was entrusted with the task of designing the prehistory welcome centre.
With his team and in strict collaboration with the Pôle International de la Préhistoire, he made sure
that the building serves the needs of visitors to the site. “We played around with different natural
elements for the decor”, he explains. “With the trees, so that their leaves are at the level of the
cafeteria terrace; with the meanders of the Beuve that you cross via the footbridge; with the cliffs
which act as a backdrop.”
Very low (only 8 metres high for both storeys), very long (150 metres) and very narrow (from 10 to 17
metres wide), the welcome centre never looms over its surroundings. With their discreet, natural
tints, the concrete, glass and metal melt into the landscape. The ground floor, open for the public
to come and go, is connected to the old medieval road. The garden level, dedicated to accompanied
visitors, is subtly shielded from passersby, just like a prehistoric cave.
Finally, Raphaël Voinchet worked with great care for the acoustics of the building, creating a calm and
relaxing environment even with a significant flow of tourists.
© CRTA/B. Bloch
A building in harmony
with the Eyzies prehistoric site
17
MYsteryquiz
How well do you know Aquitaine?
e
1
ont
© C uchillería N
On which object would you find this
design carved into the wood?
On a prehistoric tool in the Vézère valley.
On a surf board.
On the boxwood handle of a traditional knife.
A
2
B
C
© CRTA/B.Bloch
ai s
ro
n
n
Historic buildings and traditions, one-of-a-kind locations… Aquitaine is packed with unique
treasures. Perhaps you’ve heard of some of them... but do you know them as well as you think?
Test your knowledge of the region by answering a few questions.
What name would you give to this little wooden cabin on stilts?
Index: This object is originally from Périgord Vert.
A
B
C
3
It’s a hide for bird watching.
It’s a carrelet, a fisherman’s cabin on the banks of the Gironde estuary.
It’s a cabane tchanquée.
Index: its name is also the name of the type of net used by its owner..
What is the claim to fame
of the Contis lighthouse
in Landes?
It’s the only lighthouse on
the Landes coast.
B It’s the highest lighthouse in
Aquitaine.
C It’s the first lighthouse in
France to be classed as a
historical monument.
A
Index: originally, under napoleon III, its
light travelled an astonishing 80 km.
Which impressionist painter
was inspired by the water lilies
in the Latour-Marliac garden,
in Temple-sur-Lot?
4
Auguste Renoir.
B Claude Monet.
C Edouard Manet.
A
Index: he had the same water lilies in the
garden of his house in Giverny.
© SARL Latour-Marliac
5
In which Aquitaine village can you visit this
magnificent castle?
A
© CDT Landes - Lou du Lac
© Wikimedia Commons - Edouard Fattal
6
B
C
Index: it was named “France’s most beautiful village” in 2010.
© CRTA/ YD.Greifenstein
In which Aquitaine town
was this photo take?
This line of mounds of sand
with seashells is:
The results of a sand castle competition.
A row of graves in the sand topped with
coquilles Saint-Jacques.
C A garden created by an artist seeking spirituality.
A
B
Index: this place, open to all, is located in Anglet, 1 km from the
Plage de la Chambre d’Amour.
Saint-Front-sur-Lémance, in Lot-et-Garonne.
Mazères, in Gironde.
Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, in Périgord Noir.
A
7
Soulac-sur-Mer, on the Pointe de
Grave in Gironde.
B Biarritz, on the Basque Coast.
C Dax, the spa town in Landes.
Index: here you can visit the
Notre-Dame-de-la-Fin-des-Terres basilica,
designated a world heritage site by Unesco..
inhabitants of Soulac-sur-Mer dress up and relive the golden age of this elegant spa resort.
Saint-Front-sur-Lémance is home to the Chateau de Bonaguil, and Mazères the Chateau de Roquetaillade. 7A Every year in June, the
are renewed using moulds designed for this purpose. 6C It’s the chateau of Chatelnaud-la-Chapelle, which dominates the Dordogne valley.
Bernard cemetery, located beside the Bernardine convent in Anglet in the Basque Country (14 rue Lembeye). Each year the mounds of sand
Exposition in 1889, the painter Claude Monet was struck by the charms of the water lilies in the Latour-Marliac nurseries. 5B It’s the Saintlighthouse which is the highest in Aquitaine and the first to be classified as a historical monument, in 1862. 4B At the Paris Universal
rivers are used for fishing, which is strictly regulated. 3A The Contis lighthouse is the only lighthouse in Landes. It’s the Cordouan
a small town in the northern Dordogne. 2B The carrelets built on jetties on the banks of the Gironde estuary or the Garonne and Dordogne
1C This mysterious symbol is found on the handles of Nontron knives, made by the oldest knife-maker in France and bearing the name of
Answers:
18
© CRTA/MonNuage
leisure
They are gourmands, epicureans, passionate
about food and connoisseurs of good wines.
Both tourists and inhabitants of Aquitaine have
tried – and approved – these themed workshops
to learn more about the gastronomic traditions
of the region. With them, learn to carve a duck
or make your own wine!
© anaëlb.com
My chance to
get stuck in
1
y Make your own wine with
© Tim Clinch
© CRTA/MonNuage
© CRTA/B.Bloch
B-Winemaker
"I discovered B-Winemaker at Chateau
Haut Sarpe. With some professionals,
we had visited the vineyard where the
Grand Cru Classé Saint-Emilion is
made, before tasting different varieties
in their beautiful tasting room. Then
we went on to the creation stage: with
a graduated test tube and pipette, we
each created our “ideal wine” which
was then bottled with a personalised
label. We all had an enjoyable day of
relaxation and discovery, which was
both very professional and great fun."
2
fattened duck in
x Cooking
Lot-et-Garonne
Laurence, Mont-de-Marsan.
"We spent a weekend learning to cook Périgord fattened
duck in the Lys de Vergne guest house near the medieval
town of Villeréal. The course took place on the GrangeNeuve farm, a neighbouring establishment which rears and
produces the ducks. This is nothing like a typical cookery
course: We spent two mornings working in the farm’s
laboratory, and knew where all the products came from.
At the end of the weekend, we left with our confits, foies gras
and rillettes."
Serge, Aix-en-Provence.
3
c
4
Work through a recipe from start to
finish at Initial’s Chef
a cordon bleu
v Become
with Michel Guerard
“I love cooking. With Nicolas Lamstaes in Périgueux, it’s
fabulous! Everything is ready when you arrive. You have your
own personal work plan, on which you work through your recipe
from start to finish. During the course, the chef shows you
plenty of tricks. He’s composed and very friendly. At the end,
you taste each other’s dishes and you can take the leftovers
home. Afterwards, it’s very easy to recreate the recipes at
home: I’m still really proud of my macaroons!”
Mady, Périgueux.
© CPIE
b Gathering and cooking Bearn’s wild plants
5
“Being passionate about Béarn, we registered for a cookery
workshop on wild berries and nettles. The meeting was held at
Clos Lapeyre in the middle of the Jurançon vineyards.
Over the course of an enjoyable walk, we collected various
varieties of nettles and local berries. Our guide, a naturalist,
explained the benefits of each plant. Then, under the guidance of a
chef, we made several dishes with the items we had collected. The
nettle soup was really delicious!”
“I’m a regular in Michel Guérard’s
cookery classes. In these stunning
surroundings, the four afternoons
of lessons are given by Stéphane
Mack, who is passionate and a
great teacher. While the chef makes
the recipes in front of us, we can
take notes and photograph his
handiwork. I also learned to cook
different birds, including some
low-fat recipes. Since then I’ve
made some of the dishes regularly,
notably the infallible chocolate
soufflé!”
François, Saint-Pierre-du-Mont.
Christine y Sylvain, Belcastel en el ’Aveyron.
useful Information:
n B
-Winemaker – Rodolphe Desbois (+33 (0)6 62 73 77 87) - Pierre Dufourq (+33 (0)6 65 74 14 66). www.b-winemaker.com
n W
eek-end en Haut-Agenais – Marie-Ange Rumeau (Lys de Vergne) - Marie-Christine Deblache (la Ferme de Grange-Neuve)
– 47210 Villeréal. Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 36 61 54. www.lysdevergne.com
n I
nitial’s Chef – 36-38 rue Gambetta – 24000 Périgueux. Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 13 22 94. www.initialschef.com
n L
es Prés d’Eugénie – Michel Guérard – 40320 Eugénie-les-Bains. Tel. : +33 (0)5 58 05 06 07. www.michelguerard.com
n C
PIE (centre permanent d’initiatives pour l’environnement) – 64360 Lacommande. Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 21 00 29.
www.cpiebearn.fr
19
budgetchic
Treehouse, dovecote or old girls’ school: Discover
our selection of guesthouses combining comfort
and unique style.
Originales
From
95 €
a night
Screened from view by vines, with the
Garonne at the end of the road. You have
arrived at Palmiers du Port, a refined guesthouse a short way from the Barsac-Sauternes chateaux. Make the most of the traditional way of life in this place to discover
the fishing cabins with their carrelet nets
and watch the dance of the sea-lamprey
fishermen. At high tide, watch the tidal bore
phenomenon from the flower garden.
in a treehouse in Valeuil
(Dordogne)
© Cabanes de Vaure
in the Barsac port
authority buildings
80 €ht
a nig
Between Périgord and
Gascony, enjoy chateau life near the
Lot valley. Stay in one of the two charming
guest rooms in the renovated dovecote of
(4 ‘ears of corn’ from Gîtes de France) and
surrender yourself to the relaxed pace of life
in this little corner of “French Tuscany”. The
beautiful pool and Jacuzzi, pony trekking,
wine tasting in the bar and meals at the
table d’hôtes break up your stay.
n Château de Missandre - 47380 Saint-Pierrede-Caubel Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 41 87 66
www.missandre.fr
20
95 €
Have an irresistible
a night
desire to get 100 % back
to nature? Near Brantôme
in Périgord Vert, stay in a cabin perched
four metres up at the edge of a wood. In
the morning, hoist up your breakfast basket
using a pulley, then watch bird of prey and
wild animals from your balcony. At the end
of the day, enjoy the sunset over the Dronne
valley. It’s hard to come back down to earth
from this snug nest...
n Les Cabanes de Vaure - Timothée Deneuville
24310 Valeuil - Tel. : +33 (0)6 40 38 08 60
http://cabane-perigord-dordogne.cabanesdevaure.fr
in an old landes
farmhouse
From
55 €ht
a nig
© Ecolodge Segosa
© Château de Missandre
From
Pine forest ambiance in the “bois nature”,
seaside atmosphere for “les embruns”: as
the names (meaning “natural wood” and
“spindrift” respectively) suggest, Ecolodge
Ségosa is located at the heart of the Landes
pine forest and only 10 minutes from the
beach in Mimizan. Renovated according
to eco-renovation principles (local natural
materials, natural heat regulation), this old
farmhouse mixes charm and modernity.
n Ecolodge Ségosa - route de Mezos
40200 Saint-Paul-en-Born
Tel. : +33 (0)6 89 49 58 84
www.ecolodge-segosa.com
From
n Les Palmiers du Port - 20, le Port
33720 Barsac Tel. : +33 (0)9 65 19 85 43
www.lespalmiersduport.com
In the dovecote of the
Chateau de Missandre
for less than 100 €
a night
in an old girls’ school
© Le Boila-Laslie
© les Palmiers du Port
guesthouses
From
54 €
Go back to school for your hoa night
lidays? It’s possible at Le Boila
Laslie, a former school housing
two
comfortable guest rooms. You sleep in the
classroom where young girls from the village studied from 1600 to 1960. The “mountain chalet” feel of the Adelaide room is
irresistible.
n Le Boila Laslie - rue de l’église
Valérie Laurent Iglicki
64260 Bielle - (8 km north of Laruns) Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 82 65 83
ou +33 (0)6 27 91 18 56
www.leboilalaslie.com
GETTINGAWAY
In the Pyrenees
montains thrills
“Leaving the bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz behind
us, my friends and I set off towards the first of
the Pyrenean foothills. We quickly reach the
first stop on our itinerary, the Col de SaintIgnace: It’s from here that the little rack-andpinion railway begins its climb up Larrun,
the sacred mountain of the Basque Country.
During the 35 minute ascent, we come
across pottocks,
A unique view ov
and the Pyreneeser the Basque Country
from Larrun
© P. Laplace/CDT
64
IN search of basque
country pie noir pigs
The next day, we returned to the
Nive valley in Cambo-les-Bains: the
gardens of the Villa Arnaga, designed
rie
Terraces
of Irouleguy vines.
by the writer Edmund Rostand, are well
worth a detour! Arriving in the typical village
of Saint-Etienne-de-Baïgory, the gateway
to the beautiful Aldudes valley, the tourist
information centre advises us to seek out
Pierre Oteiza, a breeder of Basque Country
pie noir pigs. In his company, we set out along
a beautiful 2 km footpath to investigate this
breed which was in danger of dying out in
1981. On the lower slopes of the mountain,
we come across the herds of pigs
lounging in the
sun. They are
o dd-lo ok ing ,
with
their
black and white
hide,
heads
and backsides
both
black.
Among
the
oaks, chestnuts
and beech trees,
they are raised in
gs
groups of 40 and Pie noir pi
Pierre Oteiza.
by
can’t damage the reared
. Bloch
© CRTA/B
an unforgettable view
at the summit of la Rhune
adorable wild ponies that graze freely in the
mountains. From the summit at 905 metres,
the view is unique: in addition to the seven
Basque provinces, you can even make out
the never-ending beaches of Landes in the
distance.
Coming back down, we check into the
Auberge Basque, a modern hotel in the heart
of Labourd, ideal for exploring two of the
most beautiful villages in France: Aïnhoa, a
beautiful medieval village with its rows of red
and white houses, and Sare, with its traditional
Basque house, Ortillopitz, and Basque cake
museum! A pâtissier made a gateau
in front of us, all the time giving us
plenty of advice and tips. And what a
scrumptious gateau it was!
gue
© CRTA/A. Bé
From Saint-Jean-de-Luz to the mythical Col d’Aubisque, the 250 km route
des cols in Pyrénées-Atlantiques open the Pyrenees up to you.
From peaks to valleys, in the air or underground, on foot or by bike, follow
in the footsteps of a traveller and his friends. Set out with him
to meet livestock farmers and local guides, discover charming hotels
and guesthouses, immerse yourself in the Basque and Béarnaise cultures.
© CDT64
Around the Pic du Midi d’Ossau,
the possibilities for hiking are infinite.
21
GETTINGAWAY
Excursion
in the mysterious
Iraty Forest
© Hotel Etchémaïté
The next day, we say goodbye to Aldudes and
hello to the Irouléguy vineyard. We can’t resist
the temptation of tasting a few wines from
le valley
A room with a view over the Sou
e.
in the Hotel Etchemait
22
the smallest AOC
winemaker in France
at the cellar on the way
out of Saint-Etienne-deBaïgory. Then we head
back down to SaintJe an-Pie d-de-Por t
on the Way of Saint
James.
On foot, we pass La Verna, one
of the
under the Porte de underground ca
verns
Navarre, listed as
a Unesco world
heritage site, and climb to the top of the citadel
redesigned by Vauban.
After the climb to this high place of pilgrimage,
we have another six cols to tackle to reach the
green Soule valley! Haltza, Haritzcurutche,
Burdincurucheta, Heguichouria, Bagargui,
Organbidexka: The names aren’t easy to
pronounce if you don’t speak Euskara, the
Basque language. We arrive in TardetsSorholus on market day and seeing the stalls
of sausages and ewes’ milk cheese makes our
mouths water. At the tourist information
centre, we book a one day excursion with a
local guide, who takes us to explore the Iraty
forest, the biggest beech grove in Europe. He
shows us tumuli and cromlechs (prehistoric
funerary stone circles), evidence of the
presence of the first farmers in the Soule
valley; he tells us of the spirits who inhabit
the mountains, springs, woods and caves;
he describes the Pastoral, a traditional
play entirely in Basque which attracts
thousands of spectators every
summer.
For our third night, we have
stopped off at the
Hôtel
Etchémaïté
in Larrau. In the
comfort of its cosy
rooms with a view
of the mountains
we feel rested after
our long journey, so
much so that we decide
to attempt the ascent of
© J.F. Godar
t
pasture thanks to the ring fitted in their snout.
We stop by the panoramic map for our picnic
and it’s wonderful to listen to the silence,
disturbed only by the flights of griffon vultures
below us. The walk ends with Kintoa hamtasting. The name is emblematic, chosen
by the breeders for this product in hopes
of gaining an AOC (appellation d’origine
controlee).
Having worked up an appetite during this
visit, we have only one thought: to reach the
Maison Aguerria, an authentic Navarrese
guesthouse where dinner is waiting for us.
And what a surprise when we arrived! The
bedrooms are furnished with a mixture of
modern furniture and traditional elements
and we loved the designer lounge with its
curved white armchairs.
the mythical Pic
d’Orhi the next day!
After this lovely trip
(it is a 5 to 6 hour
walk) and a second
night in Larrau, we
make a last stop
in Soule, this time
underground: wow!!!
It’s the only word
biggest
on our lips when we
in the world.
enter the La Verna
cavern, one of the ten
biggest underground
caves in the world: 245 metres in diameter,
194 metres high, 5 hectares in area.
Fishing, paragliding and
eating out in
the Aspe valley
But it’s time to get back on the road, heading
for Oloron-Sainte-Marie. Designated a “Town
of Art and History”, the oldest town in Béarn
is an important stopping point on the Ways of
Saint James. Kitted out with audio guides, we
explored the three historic quarters divided by
the Ossau and Aspe rivers, visit the Cathédrale
Sainte-Marie, a listed world heritage site, and
buy some beautiful Basque fabric from
the Tissages Lartigue factory shop.
The town is also the gateway to
the Aspe valley. For the next
two nights, we have set down
our suitcases in Eysus, in
an old windmill located
on the Arles pilgrim route.
Restored with ecological
materials, today the Moulin
d’Eysus is a beautiful guesthouse
with a “Pêche 64” label denoting
sustainable angling. There, we each
indulge ourselves: A round of fly
fishing for two of us, and a beginners’
paragliding flight from the Accous
site for the other two.
We meet up again for a meal in
the Auberge de Sarrance, a
© CRTA/L. Reiz
But we can’t stay in the Aspe valley any longer.
The flocks of sheep are waiting for us, ready
for their summer migration up the Ossau
valley. We return to Laruns – home to the
headquarters of the Pyrenees national park
– via the Col de Marie Blanque. There, we
spend two days living the lives of shepherds:
we see them mark the sheep and accompany
them, to the sound of the bells on the animals’
collars, to their cabin in the midst of the
summer pastures at the feet of the Pic du Midi
d’Ossau, we see them milk the
© OT Gourette
migration
in the ossau valley
predominantly
basco-béarnaise
ewes and uses their milk in onsite
production. Aas is also famous
for its whistlers, shepherds who
Ossau-Iraty is
communicate with one another in
w
ith AOC statua Pyrenean cheese
a whistled language.
s
What’s more, we are in a prime
spot to set out on the last stage of
our trek: cycling the Col d’Aubisque,
ranked among the more legendary
ascents of the Tour de France.
From Aas, the route snakes up to
the spa town of Eaux-Bonnes, then
on to Gourette, the first ski resort in
Pyrénées-Atlantiques.
We’re already thinking that we should
come back to these mountains in
winter to see them in their white
mantle of snow and to take advantage
of all the activities they offer in that
season: skiing, snow-shoeing, climbing
activities
frozen waterfalls, cross country skiing...”
here are plenty of
© CDT64
fantastic house dating from 1789 reputed for
its country dishes: on the menu, boudin de
Sarrance, gratin béarnais and local cheese and
wine. There is nothing more left to do but to
cool off by setting out with a mountain guide
for an afternoon of canyoning in the Aspe
gorge.
GETTINGAWAY
waiting
T
er too.
nt
wi
in
nees
for you in the Pyre
useful Information – tourist activities
a Rhune - Larrun railway: www.rhune.com
L
Ainhoa: www.ainhoa.fr
Sare: www.sare.fr
Villa Arnaga: www.arnaga.com
Trips to see Basque pigs: www.pierreoteiza.com/parcours-decouverte/
Irouléguy wine cellar: www.cave-irouleguy.com
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port tourist information centre:
www.saintjeanpieddeport-paysbasque-tourisme.com
n Soule valley tourism: www.valleedesoule.com
n La Verna cavern: www.laverna.fr
n Oloron-Sainte-Marie tourist information centre: www.tourisme-oloron.com
n Aspe valley tourism: www.tourisme-aspe.com
n Ossau valley tourism: www.valleedossau-tourisme.com
© OT Laruns
n
n
n
n
n
n
n
ble their flocks
Shepherds assemmigration in Laruns
ready for the
ewes and are
gifted with some of the Ossau-Iraty AOC
cheese made from the milk.
To immerse ourselves even more in this
pastoral culture, we stay in the village of Aas
on the Montagne Verte farm, which rears
useful Information – accommodation
n
n
n
n
n
’Auberge Basque, Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle: www.aubergebasque.com
L
Maison Aguerria, Les Aldudes: www.maisonaguerria.com
Hôtel Etchemaïté, Larrau: www.hotel-etchemaite.fr
Moulin d’Eysus: www.moulin-eysus.com
Montagne verte farm, Aas: www.fermemontagneverte.com
23
citybreak
Spring, summer, autumn, winter: all year round, Bayonne, Bordeaux, Pau and Périgueux
pull out all the stops to offer an enticing programme: shopping in the luxury boutiques of
Aquitaine’s artisans, modern art exhibits, sumptuous meals, interactive walks exploring
the varied histories of the cities, dance shows, operas...
Flag-bearers for a rich gastronomic heritage, these cities dress up in all seasons
to celebrate chocolate, wine, foie gras, truffles and hams.
So many occasions to choose from to discover or rediscover them.
City
exploration
in all seasons
A row of beautiful Basque half-timbered façades
on the quays of the Nive in Bayonne.
personality situated between green hills and
the Atlantic Ocean. Stroll along the quays of
the Nive, admire the Maison Moulis, the most
remarkable of the half-timbered buildings,
then wander through the pedestrianised
old town: stop to browse the shop windows
filled with beautiful Basque fabrics, visit the
Cathédrale Sainte-Marie or take part in the
family treasure hunt offered by the tourist
information centre.
Also in the spring, enjoy the Journées du
Chocolat festival, going back in time to explore
Bayonne’s history, intimately linked to its port
and to trade. See the exhibit “du cacaoyer
au chocolat” (from cacao tree to chocolate)
24
nC
ontact: Tourist information office
Place des Basques – BP 819
64108 Bayonne
Tel. : +33 (0)8 20 42 64 64
www.bayonne-tourisme.com
summer:
Festive
atmosphere
on the quays
in Bordeaux
12 cours du XXX Juillet
33000 Burdeos
Tel. : +33 (0)5 56 00 66 00
www.bordeaux-tourisme.com
autumn:
Grape harvests and
relaxed living in Pau
Wine festival in even
years, river festival in
odd years: if there’s one
city in Aquitaine which
really celebrates the
coming of summer, it’s
its capital, Bordeaux. It’s
the quays of the Garonne with their beautiful
eighteenth century façades, a Unesco world
heritage site, that play host to the two festivals.
Between two wine tasting events during
“Bordeaux fête le vin” or two dance shows
in “Bordeaux fête le fleuve”, walk in the well
appointed gardens along the Port de la Lune,
play in the reflections of the miroir d’eau in
front of the Place de la Bourse, shop in the
renovated old docks, enjoy a glass of wine
with some oysters at the Sunday morning
market.
Leave your car behind to explore the city:
the tramway takes you from the Musée
d’Aquitaine to the trendy new Bassins à
The autumn, when the leaves of the
Jurançon vines take on their vivid colours,
is a particularly good time to be in Pau, the
capital of Béarn. From mid-October until
mid-December for the latest grape harvests,
Château de Pau.
© CRTA/MonNuage
At the confluence of the Nive and Adour
rivers, a love of food isn’t a sin; it’s a true art
of life. Discover Bayonne during the ham
festival, an unmissable event celebrated
during Holy Week since 1426... a city with
flot quarter, from the Jardin Public to the
charming alleys of “Old Bordeaux”, from the
CAPC (museum of modern art) to the luxury
boutiques of the Grands Hommes quarter...
You can also hire a “VCub” bike to cross the
Garonne to the La Bastide quarter and visit
the botanic garden. From there, you are ideally
placed to watch one of the musical fireworks
displays which on any special occasion light
up both sides of the Port de la Lune in a
thousand and one colours.
n C
at L’Atelier du Chocolat You can also enjoy
the sea air by hiring a bike and cycling along
the banks of the Adour to the Plage de la
Chambre d’Amour. It’s also a beautiful ride
for the summer, during the famous Fêtes de
Bayonne.
© CRTA/B. Bloch
spring:
At the heart of the
Basque soul in Bayonne
citybreak
Each summer, the troupes of the Mimos festival take
possession of Périgueux’ medieval streets.
while the wine growers are hard at work in the
vineyard, admire the Pyrenees while walking
under the palm trees on the boulevard of
the same name, where Alfred de Vigny liked
to dream. The climate, ideal for growing the
grapes which each year give birth to Jurançon,
“wine of kings, king of wines”, is also ideal for
the lemon trees, orange trees, magnolias and
camellias growing in the numerous parks and
gardens which brighten this city, birthplace of
the French king Henri IV.
Do whatever takes your fancy: stroll through
the flea markets, play a few holes on the oldest
golf course in continental Europe, attend
one of the concerts given by the Pau-Pays de
Béarn orchestra, admire Grecos, Rubens and
Degas in the Musée des Beaux-arts, stop off
at the Palais Beaumont casino, get revved up
during a cesta punta match... Thirsty? To taste
a Jurançon wine, visit a cellar on the route des
vins or book a table at one of Pau’s excellent
restaurants serving suckling lamb, fine
charcuterie, wild trout and salmon caught in
the rivers and even ewes’ milk cheeses.
n C
place Royale – 64000 Pau
Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 27 27 08
www.pau-pyrenees.com
winter:
Food tour of the medieval
city of Périgueux
Famous since the middle ages for its marchés
au gras (fattened geese and ducks, foies gras,
truffles), the capital of Périgord comes to life
on Wednesday and Saturday mornings from
mid-November to mid-March. The market
is held in the old town, at the heart of the
medieval Puy Saint-Front quarter. Armed
with your basket, follow the medieval streets
to the Place Saint-Louis, where producers of
fattened ducks and truffles gather. Look up
to admire the beautiful Renaissance façades,
including the famous “Maison du pâtissier”.
Round off your morning’s shopping with a
Périgueux pâté, a loaf of foie gras wrapped in
black truffle under a fine puff pastry.
Afterwards, admire the view over the river
Isle and visit the Cathédrale Saint-Front,
designated a world heritage site by Unesco
for its position on the Ways of Saint James.
Crowned by domes in the byzantine style, it
is the pride of the people of Périgord, as is the
Vésunna museum, designed by architect Jean
© CRTA/OT Périgueux
© CRTA/L. Reiz
The centrepiece of the new development of
the Bordeaux quays, the miroir d’eau faces
the Place de la Bourse.
The Tour Mataguerre
in Périgueux.
Nouvel around the remains of a Gallo-roman
villa.
nC
26 place Francheville
24000 Périgueux
Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 53 10 63
www.tourisme-perigueux.fr
25
shopping
Proud of their artisanal expertise, these establishments are as frequented
by regular clients as by the tourists attracted by word of mouth. While
walking around Aquitaine’s cities, pop into these confiseries, biscuiteries or
coutelleries and discover centuries-old regional traditions.
Historical and unique brands
The beautiful boutiques of the past...
1.Coutellerie Favié
Périgueux
© CRTA/B. Bloch
Lined with coquilles Saint-Jacques, a reminder that Périgueux is a stopping point on the Way of
Saint James, the rue Limogeanne brings you to the coutellerie Favié, an artisanal cutler’s shop
which since 1886 has occupied the ground floor of the Maison Estignard, built in the fourteenth
and fifteenth centuries. Before going inside, admire the beautiful Renaissance façade, a listed
historic monument, with the salamander carved over its door and its towering gable. Inside, the
descendants of Manuel Favié continue the Périgord tradition of coutellerie, selling beautiful pocket
and table knives, whether French (Nontron, Laguiole, Thiers), Swiss, German or even Japanese.
Coutellerie Favié – 5 rue Limogeanne – 24000 Périgueux. Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 53 48 83
2. Au Sanglier de Russie
Bordeaux
© L. Zeller Z.Studio
Founded in 1814 in the Saint-Pierre quarter, the brand
“Au Sanglier de Russie” developed under the second Empire,
importing wild boar bristles from Russia. Since 1875, it has been
well-established on Cours Alsace-Lorraine, half way between the
Garonne and the Pey Berland tower. In the window,
shaving brushes and hairbrushes sit cheek by jowl with
horn combs and artists’ paintbrushes. Inside, the solid oak
counters have been there since the beginning, and on the walls,
luxury brushes show off the house’s expertise.
Au Sanglier de Russie – 67 cours Alsace-Lorraine – 33000
Burdeos. Tel. : +33 (0)5 56 81 33 36
www.ausanglierderussie.com
3.La Maison Cazenave
© Au sanglier de Russie
Bayonne
Founded in 1854, this venerable establishment is waiting for you under the arcades of the rue du Port-Neuf, a picturesque street
in old Bayonne, a little way from the confluence between the Nive and the Adour. On the site of the former chocolate factory
– transformed into an elegant tea room at the beginning of the twentieth century – melt over a cup of hand whipped hot chocolate,
the house speciality. Around you, mirrors, wood panelling and stained glass transport you back in time.
Maison Cazenave – 19 rue du Port-Neuf – 64100 Bayonne. Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 59 03 16 - www.chocolats-bayonne-cazenave.fr
4. La Maison Cazelle
Dax
© Confiserie Boisson
A short way from the famous La Néhe fountain, the green wooden façade of this
old-time biscuiterie can’t help but catch your eye. The only vendor in France of the Dax
Madeleine biscuit, this boutique has belonged to the same family for
four generations. Only Philippe Cazelle knows the recipe, unchanged
since 1906 and made up exclusively of quality natural ingredients.
There’s another surprise inside: here they only sell Madeleines, still
packaged in the exquisite original blue or pink boxes.
Maison Cazelle – 6 rue Fontaine Chaude – 40100 Dax
Tel. : +33 (0) 5 58 74 26 25 - www.madeleines-dax.com
5.La confiserie Boisson © CRTA/ M.Sesma
Agen
In an old street in Agen, the Confiserie Boisson is a beautiful old-fashioned boutique with its wood
panelling, window displays bursting with treats and its jars of sweets filling rows of shelves. Coated
in chocolate, with delicious fillings, flavoured with Armagnac or decorated with almond paste: the
pruneaux d’Agen are the uncontested stars of this boutique, which has been in the hands of the
Boisson family since 1846. Your sweet tooth satisfied, head towards the Musée des Beaux-arts, with its
beautiful collection of paintings, including five Goya canvases.
26Confiserie Boisson – 20 rue Grande Horloge – 47000 Agen. Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 66 20 61
www.confiserieboisson.com
entrecÔte à la bordelaise
Poule au pot
Regional
flavours
Regional
© Fotolia.com
Foie gras frais en terrine
© Fotolia.com
gâteau Basque
Regional
flavours
flavours
Regional
© AAPrA – Coutaud
flavours
© Fotolia.com
poule au pot
entrecÔte à la bordelaise
An original recipe by Nicolas Masse, chef at the restaurant La
Grand’Vigne at the Sources de Caudalie (1 Michelin star)
Ingredients
serves 6 :
1. Wash all the vegetables and peel them.
Cut the leeks in half, leaving the carrots and
turnips whole.
• 1 chiken
2. Rinse the chicken under the cold tap.
Place it in a large pot and cover it with water.
Add the cooking salt, bay leaves and pepper.
• 6 carrots
• 6 turnips
• 4 leeks
• 2 sticks of celery,
diced
• 1 onion, studded
with 2cloves
• cooking salt, pepper
• thyme, bay leaves
3. Heat through and place the carrots and
turnips in the stock.
4. Leave to cook for at least half an hour.
Next add the leeks, celery, studded onion and
thyme.
5. Cover and leave to simmer for an hour and a
half to two hours. The chicken is cooked when
the flesh comes away easily.
6. Arrange the vegetables in a dish and place
the chicken on top of them.
7. Serve with rice cooked in the stock and a
white sauce.
Ingredients
serves 4 :
Sauce Bordelaise
• 2 beef steaks of 600g
each
• 3 grey shallots
• 2x25 g butter
1. Peel and thinly slice the shallots.
2.Sweat the shallots until slightly coloured in a
cast iron casserole dish, preferably with butter.
Coat them with flour and mix with a spatula.
• 120 g of beef marrow
3.Pour in the red wine, then the beef stock, add
the fresh thyme and bay leaf.
• 200 ml red Bordeaux
wine
4. Reduce by half. Remove from the heat and
add 25 g of butter.
• 150 ml beef stock
5.Just before serving, add the diced marrow and
chopped parsley.
• 1 desert spoon of flour
• 1 sprig of thyme
• a bay leaf
• 1 teaspoon of chopped
parsley
• Fleur de sel
Cooking the meat
1.Heat the oil a frying pan. Fry the steaks for
two minutes on a high heat. Flip them over,
turn down the heat and add the butter. Cook for
another 2 minutes for rare meat.
2.Remove the meat to a rack. Cover with tin foil,
leave to rest for 5 minutes and sprinkle with
fleur de sel and pepper before serving.
• Ground pepper
Chef’s tips
I recommend cooking the steak on good quality
embers with vine shoots.
This give them an exceptional flavour.
Sabores
Find products and recipes from the Aquitaine
region at www.gastronomie.aquitaine.fr
regionales
gâteau basque
Ingredients
serves 8 :
Sabores
regionales
Foie gras frais en terrine
To make the dough:
Ingredients:
• 1 fresh foie gras of
500g maximum
• 300 g sifted flour
1. Mix the sugar, sifted flour, salt and baking powder in a
mixing bowl.
2. Make a hollow in the centre and add the whole egg
and two yolks. Soften the butter and add it to the mixture.
Flavour with the bitter almond extract.
3. Knead the dough by hand until it no longer sticks to your
fingers. Once all the dough is of the same consistency, leave
it to rest for a minimum of one hour.
• 200 g icing sugar
To make the cream:
• 150 g butter
4. Whisk the two egg yolks with the sugar until the mixture
turns white. Incorporate the flour.
5. Heat the milk with the vanilla pod, then pour the boiling
milk over the mixture, whisking all the time.
6. Return to the pan and allow to thicken for 5 minutes over
a low heat, stirring all the time. Flavour with the rum and
leave to cool.
7. Preheat the oven to 200°C (gas mark 5-6).
8. Lightly grease and flour a sandwich tin.
9. Separate the dough into two portions, one bigger than
the other (around 2/3 – 1/3).
10. Press down the larger portion of dough in the bottom
of the tin (use your fist), folding the excess dough over the
sides.
11. Top with the cream.
12. Press the other portion of dough into a smaller disc,
place it on top of the cream and press the upper and lower
edges of the dough together to seal. Score the surface with
the tip of a knife, then brush with the with the remaining
(beaten) egg yolk.
13. Bake for around 25 minutes, then for a further 20
minutes at 180°C (gas mark 4-5).
14. Leave to cool slightly before turning
out onto a rack, then serve still warm
or cold.
• 1 fine strip of streaky
bacon to line the
terrine
For the dough:
• 1 whole egg
• 3 egg yolks, one to
brush on the gâteau
• a few drops of bitter
almond extract
• 1 tsp baking powder
• a pinch of fine salt
For the cream:
• 2 egg yolks
• 50 g sugar
• 25 g sifted flour
• 250 ml milk
• a vanilla pod (or a
few drops of vanilla
extract)
• 1 desert spoon of rum
Sabores
regionales
• 1 teaspoon of fine salt
• white pepper
• Pineau or Armagnac
to taste
1. Remove the foie gras from the refrigerator
1 to 2 hours in advance so that it is at room
temperature.
2. Separate the two lobes and devein the foie
gras: this is the fiddliest part of the recipe.
Follow the veins, pulling them towards
yourself without breaking them.
3. Spread the mixture of salt, pepper and
alcohol evenly over the entire surface of the
lobes.
4. Marinate the foie gras in a dish in the
refrigerator overnight.
5. Line the terrine with the bacon (this will
make it easier to turn out), and place the foie
gras inside (press it down well).
6. Seal the terrine (completely seal around
the lid with a mixture of flour and water), and
cook in a bain-marie in an oven at 150°C (gas
mark 2).
7. Cook for 30 to 45 minutes. To check that
the foie gras is cooked, stick a needle in it (it
should be greasy all over and just lukewarm).
8. Leave to cool to room temperature then
refrigerate for 24 hours.
9. Turn out and serve on hot slices of toasted
baguette.
© Château Garreau
GETTINGAWAY
Museum of stills
at Château Garreau.
© CRTA/B. Bloch
Wine
country
in Bas-Armagnac
Vintage Armagnac tasting
on the Ognoas estate
Be amazed, taste, explore, feast... In the Landes countryside and on the
slopes of Albret, all are good ways to live and discover Armagnac, the
oldest eau-de-vie in France.
Learn... that the production method
for Armagnac follows very precise rules,
validated by an AOC obtained in 1936. The
Ecomusée de l’Armagnac in Labastide-d’Armagnac is the ideal place to explore the history of the production of the oldest eau-de-vie
in France. In particular, it unites hundreds of
bottles in original shapes and presents 11 stills
of various types.
Be amazed…
by the oldest still in
Gascony, still hard at work, dating from 1804.
It is on display on the Ognoas estate, a ‘site remarquable du goût’ (a site recognised for the
excellence of its local produce and heritage),
which stretches over 565 hectares around
Arthez-d’Armagnac. A visit to this château,
which has produced its reputed Armagnac
since the eighteenth century, proves to be fascinating: discovering the distillation process,
admiring the wonderfully restored barn and
windmill... and tasting the finished product!
You can also stay onsite in two former smallholdings renovated in the regional style (gîtes
awarded 4 ‘ears of corn’ by Gîtes de France).
Visit… the cork museum in Mézin, which
traces the history of the cork-making trade
since the eighteenth century.
Through audio and visual displays, follow
the saga of a family of cork-makers, discover
the forest of cork-oaks and the workshops of
Albret.
Unearth… a bottle of Armagnac from
a particular vintage (the year you were born
or got married for example). On the Lapeyrade estate in Albret, your hosts fill bottles
of Armagnac directly from the barrel, sealing
them for you to take home, if you wish, with a
personalised label.
Stay… with the Comtesse de Montes-
quiou-Fezensac in Bas-Armagnac. A short
way from the eighteenth century monastery,
ensconce yourself in the former smallholding
on the Espérance estate, a gîte “Bacchus” (a
traditional gîte located on a quality vineyard
and offering total immersion in the world of
wine-making), with 4 Gîtes de France ‘ears of
corn’. On the edges of the vineyard, you are
perfectly placed to enjoy nature, visit the cellar
and discover Floc de Gascogne, a blend of two
thirds grape juice and one third Armagnac. It’s
also the perfect setting to take part in the cookery courses organised by the Comtesse.
Explore... the new cycle route linking Mont-de-Marsan and Gabarret. Stop
of at Notre-Dame-des-Cyclistes, an eleventh
century Romanesque chapel dedicated to
the pastime since 1959, cross Armagnac’s
vineyards and, wind through Landes’ pretty
walled villages, smell the famous “part des
anges”, the alcoholic vapours which rise from
the distilleries throughout the eau-de-vie’s
aging process.
Feast… around the Flamme d’Armagnac, which travels the length and breadth
of Gascony each year at the end of the grape
harvest to mark the start of distillation (from
late October to December).
In Labastide d’Armagnac, the Place Royale,
which inspired the design of the Place des
Vosges in Paris, comes to life with Armagnac
markets, winemakers’ dinners, initiations into
the jeu de quille and the course landaise, sacraments and the “Escoubade”, the traditional
meal marking the end of the harvest.
useful Information
n Ecomusée de l’Armagnac
Château Garreau – 40240 Labastide
d’Armagnac Tel. : +33 (0)5 58 44 84 35
www.chateau-garreau.fr
n
omaine d’Ognoas – 40190 Arthez
D
d’Armagnac
Tel. : +33 5 58 45 22 11
www.domaine-ognoas.com
n
ork museum
C
rue du Puits-Saint-Côme – 47170 Mézin
Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 65 68 16
www.ville-mezin.fr
n
omaine de Lapeyrade – «Le Petit»
D
47600 Fieux Tel. : 05 53 97 56 45
www.armagnac-lapeyrade.fr
n
omaine d’Espérance - 40240 Mauvezin
D
d’Armagnac
Tel. : +33 (0)5 58 44 85 93
www.esperance.fr
n
lamme de l’Armagnac
F
Tourist information centre
Place Royale
40240 Labastide-d’Armagnac
Tel. : +33 5 58 44 67 56
www.armagnac.fr
29
well-being
Hot springs in Landes,
thalassotherapy by the Atlantic
Ocean, spas among the
vines... In Aquitaine, you’re
spoilt for choice when it
comes to pampering yourself
in a stunning environment.
Discover our selection of quality
establishments for well-being
and fitness breaks.
Relaxing breaks:
choose your ambiance!
Vinothérapie
© CRTA/Les sources de Caudalie
among the vines of a grand cru classé
It’s not by accident that the Vinothérapie® spa Les Sources de Caudalie took home the
prize for best spa in the world in 2010, chosen by the readers of the British magazine
Condé Nast Traveller. Like them, surrender yourself to the ambiance of this universe
designed by architect Yves Collet, blending tradition, with the marriage of wood and
stone, and the modernity of a hushed and contemporary atmosphere. Melt under
the effects of the only grape based treatments in the world, provided by expert and
attentive “vinotherapists”: comfortably ensconced in a cubicle with a view over the
vineyard, choose the background music and fully enjoy the treatments lavished on
you, such as our full facial, performed entirely by hand and tailored to each skin type.
After visiting the wine cellar at Château Smith Haut Lafitte, a short way from the spa,
round off this return to basics by discovering the kitchen of Nicolas Masse, a young
chef, passionate about the region’s produce and whose inspiration was rewarded in
2010 with a Michelin star..
hot spring treatments
© CRTA/B. Bloch
After the renovation of its façade, the Splendid Hôtel, one of Dax’s Art Deco jewels, offers you the benefits of peloid, a mineral clay
resulting from the maturation of silt from the
Adour river in hot springs. Book a room –
also in the Art Deco style – and gain direct
access to the spa and fitness suite. This two or
three day get away allows you to simply relax
and enjoy yourself, do away with stress or
combat the aches and pains of everyday life
with the benefits of its spa treatments. You
can also take advantage of your stay at the
heart of Landes to explore the town of Dax,
hike in the vast pine forest or make the trip of just 30 km to the beaches
of the Atlantic coast. End your day with a cocktail in the Splendid Hôtel’s
great hall, and relive the golden era of this luxury hotel which opened its
doors in 1929..
30
© Bulle Communication
in Art Deco surroundings in Dax
private relaxation area
in Gascony
In the country of King Henri IV, the pace of life is slow. Discover this recipe for
happiness in the heart of the Pays d’Albret: open the door of the Moulin de Larroque in Barbaste, between rolling hills, vineyards and pine forest; take a room
in this seventeenth century water mill’s guesthouse; then take possession of the
beautiful relaxation area which is reserved just for you for an hour and forty five
minutes. During this time alone, sample the pleasure of a whirlpool bath in the
spa, enjoy the use of the sauna and Turkish bath and relax in the beautiful indoor
heated pool. All that remains for you to do is explore the green Pays d’Albret,
visit the Henri IV château-museum in Nérac, stroll through the medieval village
of Vianne or take the Train touristique de l’Albret, before a well deserved rest
in one of the Moulin de Larroque’s five charming rooms, each decorated differently in a mellow, countryside style..
well-being
© Sylvamar/soin Margaux
Balneotherapie in Landes
With the clear green waters of its indoor pool, its bamboo, scattered pebbles and
warm cubicles with lights that change colour over the course of a treatment, the
change of scenery is sure to do you good in the new well-being suite of Camping
Sylvamar in Labenne-Océan (this area is open to all over 18 years of age). In the
huge heated fresh water pool, relax on the hydromassage beds and seats, get
moving with an aqua-gym or aqua-bike class or play chess like the players in the
famous spas of Budapest. To recover from a non-stop lifestyle, relax in the sauna
with a view of the outdoors. Your journey continues in the spa, which offers
a wide array of treatments. Here as a couple? Enjoy a duo cubicle to cocoon
the two of you in a private space, before setting out to discover the birds of the
Marais d’Orx nature reserve.
Thalassotherapy
dip your feet in the water on the
Basque Coast
Situated on the beach facing the sea, the Institut Hélianthal Thalasso
& Spa is a unique location for thalassotherapy in the middle of the bay
of Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Among the numerous treatments offered, why
not try the new “fitness & Pilates” break to gently tone your body? In
addition to sessions of Pilates, a form of exercise which reinforces
muscles, favoured by celebs, you will take part in hydrotherapy,
lifting treatments, plantar reflexology and organic algae treatments.
The relaxation room and some cubicles have a splendid sea view.
You will also have free access to the Spa Bio Marin, a superb sea
water pool heated to 33°C. Fancy a walk along the waterfront? You
just have to open your door and you’re on the beach...
beauty center
© Olivier Digoit
n
Les Sources de Caudalie
chemin de Smith Haut Lafitte
33650 Bordeaux-Martillac
Tel. : +33 (0)5 57 83 83 83
www.sources-caudalie.com
n
Camping Yelloh! Village Sylvamar
avenue de l’Océan
40530 Labenne-Océan
Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 45 75 16
www.duneeteau.fr
n
Compagnie thermale de Dax
cours de Verdun – BP 7
40101 Dax
Tel. : +33 (0)5 58 90 17 04
www.thermadax.fr
n
Hélianthal Hôtel thalasso & spa
place Maurice Ravel – BP 469
64504 Saint-Jean-de-Luz
Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 51 51 51
www.helianthal.fr
n
Moulin de Larroque – Béatrice
et Jean-Philippe Guitton
47230 Barbaste
Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 97 23 34
o +33 (0)6 80 70 60 49
www.moulin-larroque.com
n
Château des Vigiers
24240 Monestier
Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 61 50 00
www.vigiers.fr
in Périgord Pourpre
Chai well-being area or Relais relaxation area? At the Château des Vigiers between Bordeaux
and Bergerac in Périgord Pourpre, you can choose the environment that suits you. In the old
wine cellar, you’ll find the beauty centre, offering a wide range of tailored treatments: after a
“silky skin” scrub with Guérande salts and essential oils, you’re ready for a “marine energy”
wrap. And the men aren’t forgotten, with a list of treatments especially for them. Next enjoy
the heated outdoor pool surrounded by old climbing roses. The second outdoor pool waiting
for you in the Relais area has a more surprising ambiance with its black lining. From the water,
you can admire Château Vigiers’ splendid golf course, which gives you a chance to practise
your aim on a magnificent natural course designed by Donald Steel, between rows of plum
trees, oak woodland, lake and vineyard..
31
fitness
With its dozens of golf courses, thousands of miles of cycle paths and
signs posted bridleways, renowned ocean waves and Pyrenean mountain
streams, Aquitaine is a dream location for sports-lovers. Discover our
selection of invigorating trips with heart-warming stays in modern hotels
and charming guesthouses.
Sports
get-aways
in Aquitaine
n I
nformation: Biarritz tourist
information centre – square d’Ixelles
64200 Biarritz
Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 22 37 10
www.biarritz-reservation.com
n Hôtel Le Bellevue
5 avenue Edouard VII
64200 Biarritzµ
Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 03 04 50
www.hotel-bellevue-biarritz.com
The rolling verdant fairways
of the Hossegor golf course.
Golfing get-away
on the Landes coast
32
Hossegor, Seignosse, Soustons, Moliets: on
a strip of less than 30km, no less than four
stunning courses have greens open all year
round for you to try your hand at golf or
perfect your skills. Scarcely 50 metres from
the Hossegor course, stay at Hôtel 202, a
new modern art deco inspired establishment. After a generous breakfast in a designer atmosphere, you’re ready to tee off on
the 18 hole course designed by John Morisson in 1930, perfectly sheltered from the sea breezes by a
forest of pine and cork-oak.
A little further on, the rolling profile of the Blue Green
course in Seignosse – regularly
cited among the best courses
in Europe – is characterised by
its ever-present water, with the
second hole located on an island.
n Information: Landes departmental
tourism committee
4 avenue Aristide Briand - BP 407
40000 Mont-de-Marsan
Tel. : +33 (0)5 58 06 89 89
www.tourismelandes.com
n H
ôtel 202 – 202 avenue du Golf
40150 Hossegor
Tel. : +33 (0)5 58 43 22 02
www.hotel202.fr
The Saint-Emilion
vineyard by bike
In 1999, Unesco placed the Jurisdiction of
Saint-Emilion on the world heritage list for
its cultural landscape. Immerse yourself in
this historic environment thanks to a dynamic and ecological means of transport: the
bicycle! Only a short ride from the medieval
town of Saint-Emilion, stay in Puisseguin, at
the Château de Môle, which offers superb
guest rooms with a sauna and Jacuzzi, winner of a “Best Of Wine Tourism” award in
2010. From there, take to two wheels to explore routes selected by the Saint-Emilion
tourist information centre. Pomerol, Pétrus,
Ausone, Cheval Blanc... As you follow the
winher view of
Night, anot
l town
the medieva
ilion.
of Saint-Em
sko
The sea is the uncontested star of Biarritz,
particularly for surfers from all over the
world who thrill to hear the names of the
Côte des Basques, Marbella and Milady.
While the Grande Plage lets you surf right
in front of the main tourist attractions in
Biarritz – the Hôtel du Palais, the casino,
the Rocher de la Vierge –, the purists’ preferred spot is without doubt the Côte des
Basques, for its exceptional location with
views of the Spanish coast, but also because
it’s here that surfing was born in France in
1956.
Or try out the Pinsolle course at the heart
of the Port d’Albret holiday resort, before
starting on the prestigious Moliets course
by Robert Trent Jones: long (6200 metres),
technical and physical, the challenge it
poses is thrilling, particularly holes 13 to 16,
played right beside the sea...
ce Heuri
© A.Lanta/Agen
Between sessions, take a break at the restaurant Le Surfing to enjoy moules à la plancha
among decor devoted to the god of surfing.
Then set down your boards and suitcases in
Hôtel Le Bellevue, fully renovated in 2010.
Some of its elegant modern rooms have a
stunning sea view. From there, you’re only
a few minutes away from the brand new
Cité de l’Océan et du Surf, a huge fun, educational and scientific space where you can
relive unique experiences in the bosom of
the ocean.
Un great weekend
of surfing in Biarritz
Surfers on the Côte des Basques beach in Biarritz.
n Information: Saint-Emilion tourist
onformation centre
Place des Créneaux
33330 Saint-Emilion
Tel. : +33 (0)5 57 55 28 28
www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com
n Château de Môle
33570 Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion
Tel. : +33 (0)5 57 74 60 86
www.chateau-de-mole.fr
Adventures off the ground
in Périgord vert
To experience a new sporting activity or
to enjoy a view of the countryside with a
difference, take to the heights in Paussacet-Saint-Vivien in the Dronne Valley. Qualified instructor Damien Souchal welcomes
you to the Maison de l’Escalade to initiate
you (there’s even an indoor wall) or to get
you ready to take on one of the 80 vertical
routes on offer. Reach the top
of the “Schtroumpfette” or
of the “Cigogne”, appreciate
the view over the forest and
see the cluzeaux, once inhabited caves hollowed out of
the cliff face.
Ready for more adventures? Head towards Lanouaille on the
edge of the Périgord-Limousin regional
natural park. At the Rouffiac leisure centre,
you can go climbing in a 100 hectare woodland park, or take to the tree-tops on an
assault course. Trouble coming back down
to earth? Spend the night in a treehouse at
the nearby Moulin de la Jarousse. Watch
out, or you’ll soon be mistaken for a bird...
the region with its wooden covered market
and imposing fortified church, admire Castillonnès and its pretty main square ringed
by arcades, pass the unusual Maison aux
Cariatides in Lauzun and trot through open
country, woods, orchards and fields.
Before reaching Duras, a charming village
on an outcrop flanked by a magnificent château, make a refreshing stop in Saint-Jeande-Duras, where Lionel and Dominique
Payen will welcome you to the beautiful
Gîtes de Momiac (4 Gîtes de France ‘ears
of corn’). After a long day in the saddle, it’s
wonderful to float in the natural swimming
pool, surrounded by reeds, water lilies,
papyrus and hibiscus.
nI
nformation: Lot-et-Garonne departmental
tourism committee
271 rue de Péchabout – 47005 Agen-Cedex
Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 66 14 14
www.tourisme-lotetgaronne.com
n Gîtes de Momiac
47120 Saint-Jean-de-Duras
Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 94 59 04
www.gitesdemomiac.com
nI
nformation: Maison de l’escalade
24310 Paussac-et-Saint-Vivien
Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 08 99 72
n R
ouffiac leisure centre
24270 Lanouaille
Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 52 68 79 www.semitour.com
n Moulin de la Jarousse
24270 Lanouaille
Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 52 37 91 www.location-en-dordogne.com/moulin/index.php
Pony-trekking
in the Pays du Dropt
In the northwest of Lot-et-Garonne, a well
sign-posted 200 km loop winds through the
Pays du Dropt, a rolling landscape among
the medieval villages and vineyards of Duras With your horse, explore Villeréal, one
of the most beautiful medieval towns in
© Château de Missandre
ding routes, coast, terraces and headlands
provide superb views
over the region’s prestigious and unique
châteaux, the silver ribbon of the Dordogne,
the hint of ochre in the
stone of Saint-Emilion’s
houses and bell tower. Follow the route to
Saint-Laurent-des-Combes, a small village
with a big view. Back at the Château de
Môle, relax your muscles with a shiatsu
massage session, discover wine making
techniques in the cellars and taste the estate’s vintages.
om
© Thinkstock.c
© Biarritz Tourisme - Le Doare
or
Rock climbing
assault course
in the trees,
ights
take to the he
rt.
in Périgord ve
33
Astrology
Your Aquitaine holiday
Horoscope
Luxury hotel with sea views or guest house in
the countryside? Museum tours in the city
or a restful break at the heart of a vineyard?
Look to your star sign for inspiration
from our choice of sights
to see and places to stay.
(21 March – 20 April)
Dynamic and hyperactive, wide open spaces
and places looking to the future are for you.
Your destination: Cap Sciences in Bordeaux,
which presents exciting scientific exhibits.
apasionantes. www.cap-sciences.net
Your accommodation: The Château Bouynot
guesthouse in Saint-Sauveur-de-Meilhan, for their
modern decor and proximity to the Casteljaloux golf
course. www.chateaubouynot.fr.
Taurus
(21 april – 20 may)
Calm and uncomplicated in character, you need
holidays in a traditional place, close to nature.
Your destination: Aïnhoa in the Basque countryside,
to savour piqillos à la morue. www.ainhoa.fr
Sagittarius
Exuberant and flamboyant, you seek lively places
where you can really shine and you throw yourself
into sporting challenges.
A compulsive explorer, you are constantly looking
for wide open spaces and exceptional landscapes.
(23 july - 22 august)
Your destination: Lacanau-Océan, to test yourself
against the best surfers in the world.
www.medococean.com
Your accommodation: 5 stars or none, the place
for you is the Grand Hôtel in Saint-Jean-de-Luz,
overlooking one of the most beautiful bays on the
Basque Coast. www.luzgrandhotel.fr
Virgo
(23 august - 22 september)
A lover of both art and nature,
you favour the quiet of the countryside.
Your destination: the Route des Métiers d’Art
in Périgord, to discover exceptional traditions
and skills. http://metiersdart-aquitaine.fr/
Your accommodation: Le Colombier in
Roque-Gageac, a gîte in a converted former tobacco
drying room.
www.gite-auberge-dordogne.fr
Your accommodation: recharge your batteries in a
safari tent at Simply Canvas, at the heart of French
Tuscany in Lot-et-Garonne.
www.simplycanvas.eu
Gemini
Libra
Always on the move, you love city environments
and seaside ambiance.
Passionate about beautiful things, you are a culture
and gastronomy enthusiast.
Your destination: Bayonne, for its boisterous
summer festivals, decked out in red and white.
www.bayonne-tourisme.com
Your destination: at the gateway to the Pyrenees,
stop off in Oloron-Sainte-Marie, a centre of Art
and History. www.tourisme-oloron.com
Your accommodation: Hôtel La Co(o)rniche in
Pyla-sur-Mer, an establishment in the Bassin
d’Arcachon reinvented by the designer Philippe
Starck. www.lacoorniche-pyla.com
Your accommodation: among the vines of SaintEmilion, discover the flavour-filled cooking of
Philippe Etchebest at the Hostellerie de Plaisance.
www.hostellerie-plaisance.com
(21 may – 21 june)
Cancer
(22 june – 22 july)
Intuitive and sensitive, you love the charm of old
stones and intimate atmospheres.
Your destination: the Landes in Armagnac for their
medieval villages and distilleries housing the oldest
eau-de-vie in France.
www.tourisme-landesdarmagnac.fr
Your accommodation: the Lamy farm, a beautiful
eighteenth century sandstone building at the heart
dof Périgord noir. www.ferme-lamy.com
34
(23 september- 22 october)
scorpio
(23 october - 22 november)
In search of originality and rejuvenation, you need
a holiday off the beaten track.
Your destination: fêtes de la Madeleine in Montde-Marsan, Feria de Dax... Don a red headscarf and
become a “festayre” in Landes!
www.tourismelandes.com
Your accommodation: at the heart of Périgord
Pourpre, live a unique experience in the Maison
d’Hikarie’s Mongolian yurt. www.maison-hikarie.com
(23 november - 21 december)
Your destination: at the heart of the Gironde
estuary, spend a wonderful evening on the Ile de
Patiras. www.refugedepatiras.com
Your accommodation: stay at the feet of the sand
dunes in one of the Côte & Dune’s charming
bedrooms in Biscarrosse-Plage. www.cotedune.fr
Capricorn
(22 december - 20 January)
Quiet and solitary in nature, you prefer a relaxed
break to recharge your batteries.
Your destination: hire a barge without a license and
drift lazily along the Garonne canal.
www.tourisme-lotetgaronne.com
Su dirección: in the hills of the wine country
of Entre-deux-Mers, stop off at the Villa d’Ô, a
charming hotel with modern rooms.www.lavillado.fr
Aquarius
(21 January - 20 february)
An enthusiastic person, you seek thrills
and a change of scenery.
Your destination: rafting, banana boats or
hydrospeed, rush down mountain gorges in Béarn.
www.tourisme-bearn-gaves.com
Your accommodation: turn back time at the Relais
de Roquefereau, an old thirteenth century hunting
lodge near Penne d’Agenais.
www.lerelaisderoquefereau.com
Pisces
(21 february – 20 march)
Sensitive and romantic, you need to dream,
to be inspired by places with a timeless beauty.
Your destination: lthe gardens of Latour-Marliac in
Lot-et-Garonne, home to the splendid water lilies
that inspired the painter Claude Monet.
www.latour-marliac.com
Your accommodation: the newly renovated Hôtel du
Fronton, at the heart of the Basque village of Bidart
between the village hall, church and fronton or ball court.
www.hoteldufronton.com
ARIES
Leo
© photo credits: CRTA/L. Reiz - J.J. Brochard - A. Béguerie • Jardins de Marqueyssac/Laugery - SARL Latour-Marliac • CDT64/Philippe Laplace
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