Hotel - Knuckleduster Miniatures



Hotel - Knuckleduster Miniatures
TCL old west HOTEL
2A …Front wall.
2B…Front trim plate; glue on the front wall to create 3D trim around the door and
2C…Front porch railing; legs fit in holes in porch floor.
3A…Back wall.
3B…Back trim plate. Glue over the back wall to create woodwork for the door and siding.
4A, 5A…Side walls. The engraved side faces out, large tabs fit notches in the floor, and the
notches at the top edge of the walls mate with the back wall (3).
4B, 5B…Window exterior trim; center on each window and make sure the top of the trim
doesn’t prevent the upstairs from sitting flush atop the first story.
6… Roof. TCL sells upgrades for the roof if you don’t want a flat roof; you can purchase
either a roof pitched front-to-back or side-to-side. I should go without saying that this sits
atop the second story.
7A…Interior wall (position approximately at dotted line. Do this after building and
positioning the stairs, since the wall must cover the back of the staircase.
7B…as pictured.
8…Hotel keeper’s table. Parts:
A. back
B. front
C. top
D. ends
9…Staircase. Build the staircase before gluing it to the floor! Use superglue to fasten a tread
(B) to the top and bottom notches of the sides (A). Make sure the paneling engraved on
parts A is vertical, not horizontal! Use any glue you like to glue the remainder of the treads
in place. Finally, glue the railings on either side; note the legs go down (they are not newell
posts). When the glue is dry and both the upstairs and downstairs are roughed-in, position
the stairs so they are aligned properly with the hole in the upstairs floor. The staircase
should be facing front, so that a person coming in the front door would see the treads. The
open back of the staircase against the wall (7).
10…Upstairs floor.
11…Upstairs front wall
A. Wall main body
B. Upstairs trim plate, which glues to the front wall to create a 3D woodwork
C. Trim plate for the top of the front wall; make sure the top is flush with the top
of 11A.
D. Cornice; sits atop the false front. It sticks out in the front, and the back edge is
flush with the back of the wall.
E. Cornice brackets; see photo of finished model for positioning. Extras are
F. Sign (optional).
12A…Back wall.
12B…Trim for back wall
13A, 14A…Side walls
13B, 14B…Window frames; make sure they are positioned so a pitched roof, if you have
one, will sit evenly on top of the walls.
15A, 15B, and 16C…Interior walls. I like to leave one-inch clearance around the stair
railings to allow figures to be positioned.
16, 17…Front railings and stair railings. They are not the same size! Test fit them to make
sure you have the right ones in the right place before gluing. The way they are taped
together in packaging should be a good indication of which ones are which.
Generally speaking, assemble the “carcass” of the building first; glue the four walls to the
floor. When this has dried, glue trim in place.
Observe the following general instructions:
1. This kit contains small parts; it is not a toy and must be kept out of reach of children.
2. Test fit all parts and make sure you know how everything goes together before gluing. If
you’re stumped, feel free to contact Knuckleduster at [email protected]!
3. If you are contemplating cutting a part to make it fit, please re-examine your assembly
plan—you’ve probably misunderstood some aspect of the design. Parts have been tested,
and should fit together in a fairly straightforward manner without modification.
4. Use white glue for most assembly; if you encounter warping, superglue may be used to
hold the distorted parts firmly in place, since white glue doesn’t grab quickly enough to
hold a warped piece straight. This method also works if you just need a third hand to hold
something in place while the white glue dries!
5. Some parts are easier to paint before assembly—examples include exterior trim around
doors and windows and things that will be hard to get to after assembly, such as staircases.
6. If painting before assembly, don’t use too much paint on assembly tabs or the wood
may swell, making assembly difficult.
7. When painting, start with a thin, dark undercoat that goes into all grooves so that
subsequent lighter coats can be dry-brushed on. For instance, bare wood would start with a
dark sepia undercoat followed by a medium brown, a mustard-brown, and a final drybrushing of tan. White siding would be painted sepia, followed by grey, and finally white.
TCL BUILDINGS distributed in the US by
Knuckleduster Miniatures, P.O. Box 1024, Normal, IL 61761, phone (309)838-9871.
Find us on the web at and reach us by e-mail at
[email protected]