1. - Salon Success
Transcription
1. - Salon Success
PRE & POST TREATMENT PRE-TREATMENT CHART ( Be careful not to manipulate the scalp in order to avoid scalp sensitivity) A careful consultation and hair analysis is important prior to every colour service. Hair condition, texture, density and porosity should always be taken into consideration. Important: Please refer to your Paul Mitchell® Professional Hair Color, Colour Consultation guidelines leaflet. IS WITH YOU EVERY STEP OF THE WAY Technical Hotline Excessive product or chlorine build-up HOW TO IDENTIFY THE LEVEL AND TONAL SERIES: The first number represents the level of the colour in the series. Example: 6RB - 6/47, the “6” before the / represents a level 6. The number/letter or numbers following the / represent the tonal series. • The first number/letter represents the primary tone. • The second number/letter represents the secondary tone. THE ULTRA TONERS ARE AVAILABLE IN FOUR INTERMIXABLE TONAL BASES. Ultra Toner Violet (UTV/6) Ultra Toner Natural (UTN/0) Ultra Toner Pearl Natural (UTPN/80) Ultra Toner Ash (UTA/1) Shampoo Three and Awapuhi Wild Ginger® KeraTriplex® Treatment, Hair Repair Treatment® or Super Strong® Treatment Extreme porosity N /0 NATURAL NATURAL NN /00 NATURAL BROWN NB /07 G /3 WB /03 C /34 RO /43 R /4 WARM BEIGE SECONDARY TONE (BROWN) COPPER RED LEVEL 6RB 6/47 TONAL BASE KEY Color Protect® Post Color Shampoo and Awapuhi Wild Ginger ® Keratin Intensive Treatment®, Color Protect® Daily Conditioner or Super Strong® Treatment Extreme porosity NATURAL RED ORANGE POST-TREATMENT CHART If a treatment is needed post-colour service, remove colour using Color Protect® Post Color Shampoo, and follow with Awapuhi Wild Ginger® Keratin Intensive Treatment®, Color Protect® Daily Conditioner or Super Strong® Treatment. TONAL SERIES CHART GOLD ® For hair with extreme porosity, cleanse hair with Shampoo Three® followed by an Awapuhi Wild Ginger® KeraTriplex® Treatment, Hair Repair Treatment® or Super Strong® Treatment. www.salon-success.co.uk ULTRA TONERS PRIMARY TONE (RED) Pre-treatment guidelines for excessive product build-up or chlorine build-up are to gently cleanse hair with Shampoo Two® or Shampoo Three®, being careful not to manipulate the scalp. Follow with a reconditioning treatment using Super-Charged Moisturizer®. 0845 034 0885 7 DAYS A WEEK 8AM-8PM Shampoo Two® or ShampooThree® and Super-Charged Moisturizer® LEVEL AND TONE NUMBERING SYSTEM NATURAL /0 ASH /1 MATT /2 GOLD /3 RED BROWN RB /47 RED VIOLET RV /46 VIOLET RED VR /64 VIOLET V /6 PLATINUM P /86 PN /80 PEARL NATURAL RED /4 ASH MAHOGANY /5 ASH ASH VIOLET /6 BROWN /7 PEARL /8 A /1 AA /11 Use Paul Mitchell® the color XG® Ultra Toner Series in a 1:1.5 ratio with 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer on damp or dry hair and process for 5-15 minutes. Check for colour development starting at 5 minutes. ULTRA TONER VIOLET UTV /6 UTN UTN/0 ULTRA TONER NATURAL UTPN /80 ULTRA TONER PEARL NATURAL UTA UTA/1 ULTRA TONER ASH For toning hair lightened with SynchroLift® Ultra-Quick Blue Powder Lightener, Paul Mitchell® ® Dual-Purpose Lightener or Lighten Up® Blonding Paste, apply Paul Mitchell the color XG® Ultra Toner Series in a 1:1.5 ratio with 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer on damp or dry hair and process for 5-15 minutes. Check for colour development starting at 5 minutes. For toning highlighted hair, use Paul Mitchell® the color XG® Ultra Toner Series in a 1:1.5 ratio with 5 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer. Apply to damp hair and process for 5-15 minutes. Check for colour development starting at 5 minutes. SECONDARY TONE (BROWN) PRIMARY TONE (RED) THE COLOR XG® AND SHINES XG® SWATCH CHART PURE BALANCING OF FUNDAMENTAL DYE PAIRS Our DYESMART® System perfectly balances the relationship among dye intermediates, down to the molecular level, for reliable, predictable colour results. LEVEL ULTRA TONERS PURE MICRO-MOLECULAR TECHNOLOGY N NN NATURAL NATURAL NATURAL /0 /00 NATURAL BROWN GOLD WARM BEIGE COPPER RED ORANGE RO R RED RED BROWN RED VIOLET VIOLET RED VIOLET PLATINUM P PN A AA /07 /3 /03 /34 /43 /4 /47 /46 /64 /6 /86 /80 /1 /11 NB G WB C RB RV VR V UTN UTN/0 UTV UTV/6 HLN 12/0 9V 9/6 PEARL NATURAL ASH ASH ASH UTA UTA/1 UTPN UTPN/80 HIGHLIFTS Super-refined micro-molecular dyes allow maximum penetration into the hair structure for optimal coverage and long-lasting colour results. 10 10N 10/0 9 86 BRILLIANT SHADES OF THE COLOR XG® AND 52 BEAUTIFUL SHADES OF SHINES XG® • Unsurpassed grey coverage • Rich red series • Exceptional highlift series 8 7 6 5 BEESWAX BASE WITH PURE XG PROTECTION SYSTEM 4 Easy to mix and apply. Beeswax, cottonseed oil and rice milk leave hair shiny and healthy-looking. 10G 10/3 9N 9/0 9NN 9/00 9NB 9/07 9G 9/3 8N 8/0 8NN 8/00 8NB 8/07 8G 8/3 7N 7/0 7NN 7/00 7NB 7/07 7G 7/3 6N 6/0 6NN 6/00 6NB 6/07 6G 6/3 5N 5/0 5NN 5/00 5NB 5/07 5G 5/3 4N 4/0 4NN 4/00 4NB 4/07 4G 4/3 3 10WB 10/03 HLPN 12/80 HLA 12/1 10P 10/86 10PN 10/80 10A 10/1 9PN 9/80 9A 9/1 8PN 8/80 8A 8/1 7PN 7/80 7A 7/1 6PN 6/80 6A 6/1 8C 8/34 8WB 8/03 6WB 6/03 7C 7/34 7RO 7/43 7R 7/4 7RB 7/47 7RV 7/46 6C 6/34 6RO 6/43 6R 6/4 6RB 6/47 6RV 6/46 5RO 5/43 5R 5/4 5RB 5/47 5RV 5/46 4RB 4/47 4RV 4/46 4C 4/34 6V 6/6 5VR 5/64 6AA 6/11 5A 5/1 4V 4/6 3N 3/0 2 4A 4/1 4AA 4/11 3VR 3/64 2N 2/0 1 1N 1/0 DYESMART SYSTEM ® Allows for maximum penetration, greater colour longevity and predictability. 10NB 10/07 HLP 12/86 1AA 1/11 CLEAR KEY THE COLOR XG® ONLY SHINES XG® ONLY THE COLOR XG® AND SHINES XG® *All swatches have been done on white hair. THE COLOR XG® SHINES XG® 1. FORMULATION Triangles represent dominant pigment and point to corresponding level. FORMULATION STEPS 9-10 1. Determine the hair texture 2. Determine the natural level and percentage of grey 3. Identify the target level and tone 4. Determine the dominant pigment at the target level 5. Refer to the colour map to neutralize or intensify the dominant pigment at the target level 6. Select the volume of developer and mixing ratio. Options: Available in Yellow, Red, Hot Pink, Purple, Blue and White. Note: To intermix and achieve a level of shade not available (e.g. 7WB), always use 2/3 of the lighter shade and 1/3 of the darker shade. Example to achieve 7WB (7/03): Intermix 2 parts 8WB (8/03) + 1 part 6WB (6/03). RM WA 7 Apply to clean hair 1/4” from the scalp. Comb through until evenly saturated. Leave on hair for 25 minutes. Rinse thoroughly, shampoo lightly and condition if desired. BLONDE VERY LIGHT BLONDE YELLOW 8 LIGHT BLONDE YELLOW/ ORANGE 7 BLONDE ORANGE 6 DARK BLONDE RED/ ORANGE 6 Blue/Violet Blue RED BROWN RED/ VIOLET 3 DARK BROWN VIOLET 2 DARKEST BROWN BLUE/ VIOLET 1 BLACK BLUE 4 PRODUCT SYNCHROLIFT® DUAL-PURPOSE LIGHTENER • Exclusive balanced bleach technology lifts up to 7 levels quickly and gently • Mixes to a creamy consistency that resists swelling • Features potato starch and zero fragrance for a pleasant colouring experience • Lifts up to 7 levels quickly • Natural conditioning agents and oils help retain moisture • White, dust-free powder lightener LIGHTEN UP ® /43 USES USES • On-scalp double process blonding • Off-scalp foil highlighting • Colour correction • Painting R /4 /46 R VIOED/ LE T 0/22 GREEN 0/88 BLUE 0/66 VIOLET GREEN/MATTE INTENSE BLUE INTENSE VIOLET INTENSE PLATINUM 45 minutes 50 minutes INTENSIFYING SHADES (Yellow/Gold 0/33, Green/Matte 0/22, Orange 0/34, Blue 0/88, Red 0/44, Violet 0/66) NEUTRALIZING SHADES (Green/Matte 0/22, Blue 0/88, Violet 0/66) SHADE + INTENSIFIER 8+ 30 gr/ml + a pea size amount DEPTH 30 gr/ml + 7gr/ml 7 30 gr/ml + 4gr/ml 3 30 gr/ml + 8gr/ml 30 gr/ml + 5gr/ml 2 30 gr/ml + 9gr/ml 5 30 gr/ml + 6gr/ml 1 30 gr/ml + 9gr/ml PERMANENT AT THE WASH HOUSE SM After processing is complete, rinse colour thoroughly and cleanse with Color Protect® Post Color Shampoo. HIGHLIFTS ULTRA TONERS PAUL MITCHELL® CREAM DEVELOPER MIXING RATIO CHART (gr/ml) levels of lift or optimal coverage Mix 1 part of the color XG to 2 parts of 40 volume Paul Mitchell Cream Developer (1:2 ratio). For resistant hair, mix 1:2.5 ratio. ® 2-3 Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer 3-4 40 VOLUME (12%) 4 DOUBLE 40 VOLUME (12%) Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer 1. 25 minutes 35 minutes 45 minutes VIRGIN: Process for 10 minutes. HIGHLIFT: Process for 10-15 minutes. 45-55 minutes 45-55 minutes VIRGIN: Process for an additional 15-35 minutes depending on the selected Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer. HIGHLIFT: Process for 45-55 minutes, depending on the selected Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer. 5-15 minutes On dry hair, apply the chosen formula to new growth and process depending on the selected Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer. 23gr/ml 30gr/ml 45gr/ml 45gr/ml 68gr/ml 60gr/ml 90gr/ml 75gr/ml 113gr/ml 90gr/ml 135gr/ml VIRGIN APPLICATION For tone-on-tone or deposit only: Use 5 volume (1.5%) Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer For up to 1 level of lift and/or added vibrancy: Use 10 volume (3.0%) Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer 1. Section the hair into 4 quadrants. 1. 2. On dry hair, apply colour from the scalp through the ends, unless there is damage or porosity. 2. 3. Process for 25 minutes. 3. Process for 10 minutes. 4. If there is damage or porosity, apply the selected colour or a lighter formula to the ends for the last 5-15 minutes. 4. Apply colour to the root area and through the ends. 5. Process for an additional 15 minutes. If desired, refresh the mid-shaft and ends for the last 10-15 minutes. Apply to wet hair and emulsify until the slightest change in colour is seen, usually approximately 5 – 10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly. RE-PIGMENTATION • Moisturising conditioners and panthenol helps treat and protect the hair. 15gr/ml Section the hair into 4 quadrants. On dry hair, apply colour / inch (1.5cm) from the scalp to the point where the ends show damage or porosity. 12 RETOUCH Equal parts of Dual Purpose Lightener OR SynchroLift® + 10 volume Cream Developer + Shampoo One® • Prevents staining and penetration 1.5 PARTS PAUL MITCHELL® CREAM DEVELOPER Apply colour to the root area and through the ends. 10 VOLUME (3%) Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer, check colour development for desired result starting at 5 minutes VIRGIN APPLICATION Section the hair into 4 quadrants. On dry hair, apply colour 1/2 inch or approximately 1.5 cm from the scalp to the point where the ends show damage or porosity. The Colour Balance formula is: COLOR BLOCK® 1 PART COLOUR VIRGIN & HIGHLIFT TIMING COLOUR BALANCING Apply Wipe Out® to a cotton wool pad or a clean towel, then rub skin gently to remove colour stains. Mix 1 part shines XG® to 1.5 parts Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer (1:1.5 ratio). ® ® Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer levels of lift Deposit only or 1:2 ® Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer 30 VOLUME (9%) levels of lift 1:1.5 HIGHLIFTS Mix 1 part of the color XG to 1 part of 20 volume Paul Mitchell Cream Developer (1:1 ratio). 10 VOLUME (3%) 20 VOLUME (6%) Specifically designed to be used following a colour service to effectively remove all residue from the hair and scalp, stop the oxidation process and extend the life of hair colour This post-colour service essential gently and easily removes colour stains from the skin. FOR TONING LIGHTENED HAIR • Always strand test • Always use 5 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer • Mix up to 75% of your formula with Clear Shine depending on the desired amount of toning • For levels 8-9 use Ash tones 9A (9/1) or Violet tones 9V (9/6), for level 10 and above use Pearl Natural tones 9PN (9/80) • Application: 1. At shampoo bowl, apply to damp, towel-dried hair 2. Process 3-10 minutes, watch carefully 3. Rinse, shampoo and condition 4. APPLICATION 1-2 levels of lift WIPE OUT® TO CREATE MORE TRANSLUCENT RESULTS Use 25-75% Clear Shine with desired shade • Levels 1-6, mix 50% Clear Shine and 50% selected shade • Levels 7-10, mix 25% Clear Shine and 75% selected shade. CLEAR BOOSTER GUIDELINES 3. PROCESSING For deposit and minimal lift Follow with the appropriate conditioner for the hair SHADE + INTENSIFIER 4 6 1:1 1:1.5 USES • An additional 5-10 minutes will enhance coverage. Mix with up to 50% of total shade formula. Example: 30gr/ml Clear Shine + 30gr/ml 8G (8/3) + 90gr/ml Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer. ® 45 minutes • Timing is 25 minutes for both volumes of Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer USING CLEAR SHINE ALONE 2 RESISTANT LEVELS 1-10 MORE OPAQUE COVERAGE ® 10 Volume (3%) Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer on dry hair • Levels 1-10, achieve up to 1 additional level of lift by adding up to 50% Clear Booster to your shade formula • When added to Ultra Toners, Clear Booster will create a more refined result • Clear Booster should not be added to Highlifts • Adding Clear Booster will create a more translucent result on grey hair. STANDARD LEVELS 1-10 AND ULTRA TONERS Mix 1 part of the color XG to 1.5 parts of 10-40 volume Paul Mitchell Cream Developer (1:1.5 ratio). Mix Ultra Toners with 10 volume. • Process time will vary depending on level of lift and condition of the hair. • Check the hair every 5 minutes during processing. • Do not use heat. 5 Volume (1.5%) Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer on dry hair • Add pure shine and reflection to previously coloured hair. Formulation: Mix one part Clear Shine with 1.5 parts 5 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer. • Add shine and reflection to virgin hair without lift or additional depth. Recommended formulation: Mix Clear Shine with 25-50% of selected shade at the same level or up to one level lighter. 2.2.MIXING MIXING • Mix 30gr/ml Lighten Up with 45gr/ml of Cream Developer (1:1 1/2 ratio) for on-scalp applications. • Mix 30gr/ml Lighten Up with 30gr/ml Cream Developer (1:1 ratio) for off-scalp applications. PROCESSING & TIMING CLEAR SHINE OPTIONS / UE BL LET O I V 3 INTENSIFIERS RED INTENSE 3. Refer to the shines XG® colour map for shade selection, taking into consideration the desire to neutralize or intensify pigment. TO DILUTE UP TO ONE LEVEL Prior to adding Paul Mitchell Cream Developer: • As a general use guideline, for each 30gr/ml of selected shade, add the amount of Intensifier specified in the adjoining chart • For very strong or vibrant results, add up to 30% of the formula to neutralize extreme tonality and up to 50% for vibrant intensity • When using Intensifiers on levels 9-12, expect extremely vivid results. 0/44 RED PAUL MITCHELL® CREAM DEVELOPER L AR PE 4 DEPTH ORANGE INTENSE 2. Determine the target level, tone and overall desired result 1 /86 /64 VIOLET The fashion shades are extremely vibrant. • For a more muted red tone, 50% of the formula should contain added base tone of N, NB or RB • When using a fashion shade to darken more than two levels, re-pigmentation should be considered for full tonality and longevity. 0/34 ORANGE P VR CO OL RE D RED FORMULATION YELLOW/ GOLD INTENSE /11 /80 RV Use a combination or any one of these tips to achieve full coverage on over 70% grey hair: • Add up to 50% N, NB, NN to your selected shade • Drop one level darker than your desired end result • Use a mix ratio of 1:1 • Extend processing time by 10-15 minutes. 0/33 GOLD AA PN V /6 GREY COVERAGE FORMULATIONS • For on-scalp application: 20 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer is recommended. • For off-scalp application: Choose any volume of Cream Developer depending on the end result. • Mix your desired consisency. • Mix 1 scoop of dual-purpose Lightener with 50gr/ml Cream Developer (1:2 ratio). /1 /47 5 • Achieve up to 1 level of lift - Under level 6, less lift - Over level 6, more lift • Enhanced grey blending • Added vibrancy. A RB Yellow/Green • Lifts up to 5 levels gently • Suitable for on or off-scalp techniques, especially on fine, fragile hair • Light, fluffy texture resists drying and ensures easy application • Grey blending • Deposit only • Tone-on-tone results • Mix with Clear Shine for pure shine BLUE/ GREEN Green LIGHT BROWN 5 RO ® ULTRA QUICK BLUE POWER LIGHTENER ON-AND OFF-SCALP POWDER LIGHTENER BLONDING PASTE F & B’S USES /2 Blue/Green INTENSIFIER GUIDELINES MIXING C /34 AS H 9 RED/ ORANGE 1. Determine the natural level and percentage of grey BL UE Violet shines XG® provides grey blending. Where additional coverage is desired: • Drop one level darker than your desired end result • Extend the processing time by 5-10 minutes • Use 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer. /03 OR AN Violet PALE YELLOW FORMULATION STEPS WB D RE INSTRUCTIONS FOR INKWORKS ® PROCESSING G /3 Neutralizing Base Dominant Pigment LIGHTEST BLONDE D RE INKWORKS® WHITE Use: •A lone to add a clear gloss for intense shine. •O ver the top of fresh colour to help seal in colour for longer-lasting results. •T o dilute any colour; mix them and play—the possibilities are endless. Recommended mixing ratio for pastel tones: 1:4 (1 part INKWORKS® shade to 4 parts INKWORKS® White) 10 WARM RED Level Shade Name INKWORKS® SHADES Achieve: • Vibrant, pure tones on hair that has been pre-lightened; you control the intensity of the tone based on how pre-lightened the hair is, from pale yellow to slightly “cracking” the underlying pigment. •A n “aura” of colour with an overlay on natural hair. •D epth and tonal intensity to freshly tinted hair. MAXIMUM TIMING B PIGMENT CHART PROFESSIONAL USES • Mix 1 well-rounded scoop of SynchroLift with 60gr/ml of Cream Developer (1:2 ratio). YE L GR LOW EE / N GOLD N EE GR • Semi-permanent hair colour provides vivid, more vibrant results. • All colours are intermixable for unlimited creativity. • Bright colour offers long-lasting vibrancy. The fashion shades are extremely vibrant. • For a more muted tone, 50% of the end formula should contain an added base tone of N, NB or RB • Remain within 2 levels of your canvas level for best results • Condition and porosity of hair affect longevity. YELLOW GE CO PP ER BENEFITS OF INKWORKS® 8 / OW LL GE E YE RAN O EIG GREY BLENDING USING FASHION SHADES RE-PIGMENTATION FORMULATION STEPS RE-PIGMENTATION FORMULAS When depositing more than 2 levels on previously lightened or processed/damaged hair, re-pigmentation is recommended. Mix with 45gr/ml of 5 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer. 1. Identify target level 2. Select a formula from the Re-pigmentation Chart 3. Apply the colour to the lightened area only, not the natural new growth. 4. Time for 15 minutes 5. Remove excess colour with damp towel or rinse only with warm water. DO NOT SHAMPOO! 6. Gently towel dry hair 7. Mix up final result colour using the N, NB or WBs + colour tone desired + 5 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer. 8. Apply colour formula 9. Time for 20 to 30 minutes, strand test frequently. RETOUCH APPLICATION • if desired shade is red add 5gr/ml of Orange Intensifier with 25gr/ml 6N (6/0) + 5gr/ml 6C (6/34) • For cool end results on level 4-5, mix 25gr/ml 6N (6/0) with or 5gr/ml 5R (5/4) • For cool end results on level 6, mix 25gr/ml 6N (6/0) with or 5gr/ml 6C (6/34). TARGET LEVEL FORMULA 9 25gr/ml 9G (9/3) + 5gr/ml 8C (8/34) + 45gr/ml 5 volume Cream Developer 8 25gr/ml 8G (8/3) + 5gr/ml 8C (8/34) + 45gr/ml 5 volume Cream Developer 7 25gr/ml 7G (7/3) + 5gr/ml 7C (7/34) + 45gr/ml 5 volume Cream Developer 6 25gr/ml 6G (6/3) + 5gr/ml 6C (6/34) + 45gr/ml 5 volume Cream Developer 5 25gr/ml 6C (6/34) + 5gr/ml 5R (5/4) + 45gr/ml 5 volume Cream Developer 4 25gr/ml 6C (6/34) + 5gr/ml 5R (5/4) + 45gr/ml 5 volume Cream Developer 1. 2. On dry hair, apply the chosen formula to new growth. Process for 25 minutes. If desired, apply the chosen formula from the mid-shaft through the ends and process for the last 10-15 minutes. ADDITIONAL NOTES: • Room temperature processing is recommended for predictable, consistent results. • Following processing time and before rinsing, emulsify the colour around the hairline to avoid staining before water is applied. • To intermix and achieve a level of shade not available, always use 2 /3 of the lighter shade and 1/3 of the darker shade. Example to achieve 7WB (7/03): Intermix 60gr/ml 8WB (8/03) + 30gr/ml 6WB (6/03)