Gary Rolfe.indd
Transcription
Gary Rolfe.indd
60 Dogs Today December 2005 d Blitz an Spoons, FRIDAY Ran at 5 NOVEMBER them w 6am, walked th ith m e p By noon e for the fir uppies on the st time. lake and A couple , I was on filmed Pr the near of snowmobile the east chan oud dad. n ice road est community s passed us, t el with the ad h off, jus is usually a d to Inuvik. The en a car. Akla ults. are in a t in ca vik is se there n old c first drive on The roa ’s a the r a d from w ice road Inuvik t need for a qu ith the roof in o Tukto ick exit the wor 100,000 . ld, yuk that ma lb can drive ov 100 miles whe tuk is the long r kes up e e e used by the intr r ice. The maz vehicles up t st o ic t e h a e t o e f I n Mackenz waterwa uit for communic ie y - by bo ation between thousands of y Delta have be s e en a a c t r o s m in the winter. summer munities and hu as a form of N o v e mber to nting gr and by the Mac ound dog M Not so kenzie River us arch sees the team during t s h e of the dangerous when ed as a tempor ast and middle e ic a Decembe e reaches 15 you consider t ry road system of he r. feet on . these ic average thickne e ss roads by SUNDAY m id 7 NOVEMB Blitz he ER lp this mor ed me with a “What h ning. I put him few training s “Bloke s ave you been d back with Sp led maintenance o t in u gets int ff.” He mak g?” He looke oons. She aske jobs d o e d so funn all sorts of s me laugh. H at her and s , y - like e a p ’s id r e d powder rolling a icaments that so serious, bu , snow. nd tumb t m ling, get ake him look I bought t in g 20 Gwitch’i covered n Indian whitefish fro in m Alber friend. t, a three right’ y ‘turn m o t R E tly to OB consisten 29 OCT he turn FRIDAY arted responding right makes t consistently Thule st s. Kavik on the her to do this urns. I’ll swap t command her. I’ll get ake left-hand wizzle sits on e T g m a om him encour sking her to ncourage her. walk fr a e I o t e il t h f before w the le l stay Kavik to instantly. He’l sing start. a command steps - a ple s r u o f or e puppie a h T . y R a E d o old t OCTOB across AY 30 is four months today, walking D R U T A S Twizzle pedition -22ºC. their first ex day. went on ke. Snowed all lights frozen la orthern dead n e h t BER . A meant 1 NOVEMhe full moon wisps of green n solid. Y A D N T O e z M . eir vague ere, fro st thing Ran fir to perform th ht was still th ravens chiselling struggled n past last nig the result of a ell. fox I r its body was ent beaks. in sitting w sist ll r it a e p p s A p ir u e p h th the away witk sessions had ic Qu Gary with Blitz Teachin g T w izzle to stay on comma nd FRIDAY Snowed 1 OCTOBER thermom all day. It’s ge t e into the ter will gradua ting colder. Th e lly short b u lb . More ch It’s only en until blood-red liquid a and I s insawing to cle calibrated to it sinks no f t out. It’s arted digging in ar the kennel drop 40 below urther the fou like hacking cto permafrost area for my d zero. r o t Saxon an dogs that are oncrete. I decid o secure the gs, s d Twizz e s t o il n l with Jo names f takele. K e ll y : Blitz, S or SATURD poons, A -14ºC. D Y 2 OCTOBE R u r and snow ing my morn in tundra f shoe hare trac g run, I notic ks in t loor spa he snow e Arctic fox, ngle as if c rafted f . The sun m lynx WEDNES ade rom cut D A Y 13 The last diamonds the OCTOBE . shore. N couple of nigh R o t s Ice cove ice. This mo , I’ve walked r doesn’t r is measured ning it was nin the Mackenzie m in e-te Rive e a te n IN SEPTEMBER 2004, on foot with two Huskies, explorer Gary Rolfe I’ll soon it’s safe to nths, though c nths covered. r t o r m ask Jo avel over plete ic reached the end of a 400-mile journey in the central Arctic community into Inu Ke . e cover located vik to register lly to send the of Kugluktuk. He flew on to Yellowknife where one of the last remaining legally in a nd pay dogs, s standards Canadian Kennel Club registered gene pools of Canadian Eskimo Dogs ; fines Inuvik. I had for them, so o I walked w (CED) remains. Only 300 exist, making it one of the rarest dog breeds to sign are issu they ca as all and sociaabout adequate ed if I don’t a list of dog n be in the world. ad shelter, t lisin feeding, here to them. eam Gary flew further north into Canada’s western Arctic and prepared a Inuvik is g the dogs. It r e s p onsible be serious base-camp in the community of Inuvik for the coming winter. Gary and breeding oil, gas ing hailed as a The who and min frontier his dogs covered 3,000 training miles throughout that difficult winter, 2009 a le Mackenzie V eral exploration town with so facing perpetual darkness, often at 40 below zero. n dollars). d is estimated alley Pipeline pr going on right me worth $ The reserves of to cost $7 bil oject is planned now. 2 an influ .9 trillion. Inu gas and oil a lion (in Canadia for re x of 20 vik n nudging ,000 p may become deemed to be as h 3 ip ,0 a is e h 0 li t b n 0 e o omt folks at em had R e past present. ployees. The to own with OCTOBEfternoon. In th d to ask if I 19 wn is Y A e TUESD y hair this a s. People us lt m u s e g r I cut upsettin produced knife. mange! m Yellow o r f in fly OBER 22 OCT ons and Twizzle in. Y A D I R a o F same ag litz, Sp Saxon, Bl never be the n. Life wil afternoo avel is h t R o r E g t r B a 4 OCTO m Inuvik air c snowmobiles to up and 2 Y A D r o r oa SUN Thule fr thick fo racers r Collected is sufficiently channel. Boy elow zero, this t The ice Mackenzie eas At only 10 b . s e e h over t their machin n o mild. down is still to pull winter r own t a e h R E n o B O t CT kep Thule ou y. She Y 26 O TUESDA ll when I took d. She did oka ing and staying. Snow fe ight training slerk on her sitt dividually for a e o a lightw e, but we’ll w Twizzle out in ‘sit’. n d li n rd a tight Spoons g with the wo , z t li B in tart Took aining, s little tr n lake on froze Twizzle Training trial Gary’s place. Nothin g is safe OCTOBER and Kavik. WEDNESDAY 27 as a team with Thule, Saxon od friend, First time out ed leader and belongs to a go enced leader on ide an experi Kavik is a seas get Thule alongs direction commands. to al vit ’s It my Judi. and to r response to to strengthen he are busy learning lead training . Spoons te s ie The pupp incredibly cu She has - while looking d an m m co her, I’m sure. on t at si g lin st hi w hold her e boys will have all th eyes that make me want to izzle is y infectiously happ a very serious young man. Tw awesome s ok lo z lit pup. He’s an tight. B ighty, powerful months of age. He’s m a to in ng ti ur genera y approaching fo wing him to size for a pupp d I’ve not been afraid of allo black as as fast to learn an ders on the stake-out. He’s ake out if el m s run around hi and it’s not always easy to a sack of coal way or not. he’s looking my OCTOBER l. Thule THURSDAY 28 urs again on the east channe own. I ho r Out for three ent right-handed turns on he id ft that she le nf g co in e go m so ’s It e . mad rn tu e th art enough her for say “Chee” to e “Chow” command. She’s sm e too long, th or struggles with, the centre of attention. Bef receptive e or be m to e m and likes se and will beco ea pl to r ge ea she’ll be ds. to new comman Pups in side Feature and photography by Gary Rolfe 61 WEDNES Went fo DAY 17 NOVEM realise t r a run and t BER o me teac hat every time ok Thule with h in g h er new we’re togethe me. I want and have r it’s n her to things. I a p la ot y and cam e back too. We ran o want her to s all about witch o n the r every tim I to some re ok Blitz out f e I asked he iver. She ran a ff r a head approach son, he has be or some extra to. . Kids. come a attention . little dis tant and For THURSD hard to I now AY 18 NOVEMB split adu E on rest lt food R plummet days to fuel t into morning a in to gain g temperatures heir increased t nd evening feeds rainin . I’l and Email fr maintain more l keep this up g runs and o m until th m uscle. Canadian a contac ey start E t s k in im o Iqualuit were bo Dogs fo u w g r it h h three sale. Or Novembe t from an igina sibli I r harnessed 2003. Appare nuit gentleman lly the brothers ng ntly in P for The sun the first tim they’re strong ond Inlet. Born e pullers a rose at nd were 11.25am last April. and set at 3.55 pm. Gary with Blitz and Spoons NOVEMBER walk with SATURDAY 20 izzle and Spoons out for a cialising I took Blitz, Tw kids. It was an important so to being l r friends and thei ppies and they responded wel to reward pu ds e ki th e r th fo for lesson out milk bones alongside one handled. I handed long they were all running e the pups. Befor g in the snow. in ay pl another and NOVEMBER to add WEDNESDAY 24 om the UK email, asking me helicopters fr ericans in I had someone tion to stop Am ti pe a to e m my na in the I replied: shooting wolves. your ‘petition email’. I’m still last time, r e “Thanks fo e sun for th eek we’ll see th year, since the freezew a In . ic ct Ar As usual every ity here and until next year. been coming into the commun es here and bi up, wolves have penned pups. Wolves carry ra especially y, it en ev un m , m gs co killing do l threat in the ia nt te s this too. er po ff a su s ay ka are alw ol. Alas ho sc to ay w that not r to kids on thei recent signatures ry easy t os m e th om ve I did notice fr from a northern state. It’s gripe doesn’t a single one is say ban something when the sign the for someone to yday lives. Sorry, but I won’t eat and a WEDNES er affect their ev fur and feed my dogs seal m o. You’ve Canadian DAY 1 DECEM r petition. I wea ould fail to understand that to give a w Eskimo Dogs BER w le op pe lot of Spoons arning ‘gruff’ don’t bark. Th see why.” e-out ak to st re ld he ou w e liv t ui In sparkled ‘gruffed’. We to anything u ey sing, howl got to y the ancient with her. n w o They used to sa s for a male wolf to mate in that A wolf. yellow and van ere being wat toward. Tonigh r he tc ue t bi iq is c un n wolves are window Whatever the hed. I inspec hed. The eyes their in-seaso nonsense. Male mes of the year. Instead te op t ’s at th y it al re ti m In yself fo en and chain- emperature, I d the prints. n. certain te at ea ile be rt to fe lo alw r y ly el c lik k not pra the inst they are on ising Sp the puppy p ays leave a ed-out bitch is s sled dogs. They’re ak st a a , n te t bi e she did oons fo e useles of a love r raisin ns. I kicked it. brid progeny mak g the a T In any case, hy ’t breed. H U RSD larm uvik every on Saw th AY 2 DECEM antisocial and w channel freezes, wolves hit In the r B e st E ut R Once the ea puppies. e wolves on appear througho the fro areness posters gs here in the winter T aw w s ie iz ab R z r. le t zen lake te he huge do win was par s slaughtered 18 to die. ve p t ol a W ic d y. u it la un t is m r rly upse when walking m ail. His co usually r a dog fo ay w t when a the t t a a ha il, a tigh relaxed. of 2001. W This mo t scythe shap sensitive moo he sniffed e when d indica rning h On Apparent the phone I m e was anything he’s happy an tor, d but. from his ly a wolf pac entioned this t k o by a th mum. I have tried to sep Jo Kelly. n his fath ing, but I kn ’t noticed Sax arate Twizzle o on b e r . A bount w that wo Forty-fiv lves in eing bothered y was e d a Chu o ys n killer w as shot and nights of the head of t rchill ate he waiting dead. and the killer. dog An excited Twizzle Saxon eats his frozen fish le up for Thu und, R e E B im t M E NOV First g aro t r DAY 10 h, messin e hours. WEDNES adults for fiv complete bitc know she’s sma h it a e I h w t s . a w and dem Ran of ne. She ry comm d in tan front alo ith almost eve g. She’s worke to having plenty y w defiant apable of leadinonly pup, used g. She’s mentall and is c er, Chilly. An rive from leadin her strengths. h l her mot , Thule will th have to channe n I io t atten nd dominant; cared n’t have e good ld u o c strong a s R MBE puppie ule made som , 12 NOVE h ut the is FRIDAY cold -42°C, b r two hours. T s. I ignored th e o ly n f s o u ous dults Serio ome hide n the a e end. less. Ra he also made s it right in th moves. Se sure she got himself shamed o the e but mad h R E il B t M un int 14 NOVE an hour straight SUNDAY zle inside for The wet ran iz . rgery in Had Tw g on my floor ck. as a su every two h a in s s ll is e r r p u e v O flo by rive here . John of my efore bottom vet is in town two days to d for a week b g in s e d e ik h T tak Inuv t fee said ns abou City and ctice in Dawson He runs a pra ad some questio y I did, as he f k o months. outh again. I h nzie River. Luc nasty strain . I a s e s g k o g r c d u a in o d M to arb hea of the if fed nd to h fish out ’s whitefish te lt to eradicate iated the river that’s difficu ach. I apprec s tapeworm my own stom until January. The effort wa k f . c o e a r b think get he n’t be John wo had taken to e. ort it the eff ted in the pric a reciproc riting Busy w out le heart her litt running Spoons ice 62 Pulling fish fro m a ne t se t u nder th e Mack enzie R iver e northern VEMBER MONDAY 8 NO ok at the sky. I’d noticed th ptured my ca lo Took time to as the volume of stars that shot across w rs it eo t et M bu e. s, er w light ey th w bright quiet, but, as attention and ho led into black. It was very e. Wolves, zz my view and fi a feeling that I wasn’t alon too, if you as w e er spirits, always, th on the move l al e ar nx ly foxes and sort of thing. believe in that VEMBER save fish for TUESDAY 9 NO rt’s cabin and asked him to axed and be I walked to Al s net set under the ice. We pulled it hi om fr of the net, my dogs les either end hing dead, and reset ho at n w do d eryt chiselle ice, clobbered ev rday. By the from under the r another inspection on Satu fo frozen solid. the net ready , our 12 were go to y ad re e time we wer ne on nning alo contain ER u r B M r E e t V f O a N n’t gel does AY 25 ply it my face THURSD Bag Balm on This protective my face. I ap it d r n o . I smea this morning wise freeze t st with it a y get a e the river at would other wounds heal f happens if th h n t is e h . p T r it k. ut o. O wate itten dic dogs, to king abo to the a dog’s frostb and keep thin protects ion in the cold an erect Dogs Today December 2005 Dogs Today December 2005 63 Gary sewing a new canvas sled bag es stretch Piston Return of the sun EMBER time at TUESDAY 7 DEC1.31pm and set for the last I was up Sunrise was at appear now for six weeks. d mending. an ’t 1.57pm. It won wing, making gear alterations Sham 69. until 2.30am, se orhead, Sex Pistols, GBH and Listened to Mot DECEMBER sed Twizzle WEDNESDAY 8 run with the adults, I harnes ults for a ad After an hour’s me. I took him alongside the . He took ad ti lo t a rs fi d ce e for th experien r him to have mile, enough fo on the to it instantly. without mercy in the dark, like sticky f , el ey ys I ran m elids felt glu lt cruel. My ey ng together. river ice. It fe and were in danger of freezi clotting wounds, MONDA Y 20 D -40ºC. ECEMB individua Walked new b ER ll stainless y on a lead. oys Marshall a him. Po steel collar Cream followe nd Piston d r o worst. r guy. He’s o ing and would . He snapped n’t let bviously h me cat is taken t I moved c h h e M u pheaval my bac k door. arshall and Pis kennel t on dire Cream a Later I nd settled. I crept into M ctly in front arshall’s watched of talked lay it down ag quietly to him him nap and strawed hour I ain. I , he r left h le collar. knelt down an ft him again. aised his head im. d he le t me c After another and I moved ollect h M was. Q im by uiet voicarshall and let the e with Piston s n t o a y fast ha TUESDA nd move where he Y s calms Ran Pis 21 DECEMBE t him. swapped on and Marsha R ll side b P is t o n Cream is y side. and Mar Shor shall fin Walked ding re-adjustm for Twizzle a t run then twins B ent diff nd Crea stopped litz m. icult things I and I settled t and Spoons on . He’ll be oka Poor y their aw couldn’t determ hem. They saw a moonlit lake . . areness ine. Wolv a n We d ‘g ruffed’ and we es? Pro There w at b m a o b v a ly e s d . at today a o I praise ’s temp 30-minute po n. d erature wer-cut of -39º in Inuv C was no joke. ik. No heat 64 Cream . in Inuvik e ic v r e s MBER e carol o. Inuit 12 DECE nt along to th ed like an iglo l language Y A D N e ap icia SU in the off ning I w l and sh This eve ch is beautifu in Inuktitut, t of my folks r h t u g h h The c ng Silent Nig , and I thou elders saern Arctic Inuit of west I the UK. airport. to BER ik M v E u n C I E D u, AY 18 rs from and Sik ream. They SATURDd three brothe names, Nixee C w no he Collecte their original apu’s name is first time t N e y d h r e . t’s t ll appear ve chang rshall and Ma lighty. I a Piston derstandably f es. It must e n r u t . e s n dog wer have see autiful brothers They look be strange. ats Saxon e snow Saxon enjoying himself with his Ruff Wear pack DECEMBER them over THURSDAY 23 and said I’ll be thinking of s Phoned my folk my place . as Christm and Marshall into oser to am re C , on st Pi I brought em to get cl d encouraged th e best for them. For an e m ti a at one t th eir dad and wan sniffing, wide eyes and th I’m g vin lie be ith piss. I ere was lots of half an hour th flood the poor flour sack w I’m so d. Marshall tried to I lay on the floor and doze as t rs s. fi st 0mph gu smelt it ows in with 5 tired. Blizzard bl ght and RISTMAS EVE FRIDAY 24 CH me a couple of times last ni made a d e an The wind wok foot of snow. Fed puppies I walked r k. he in to dr ts ul brought anot ad e th e ag ik this encour l and into Inuv ent to ne soup broth to an ch st ea e th W along the ice of darker than ever and snowing. as w It . morning so tired. bed at 8pm. I’m TUESDA Thule b Y 28 DECEMB r her the eaks through ER re’s no he prize fo r third collar Saxon w r this. this win o n’t use to be h ter. I h is is told k p e is n s post. nel at create all. It’s a deep I dig do nest of wn tu straw f into packed rned out WEDNE o snow to r him. S Up at DAY 29 DEC E river. I 6am. Ran by MBER moonlig c o u ld n’t throwin g firew believe two ht for an hou and ice . Drugg orks horizonta riders on sno r on the ll ed up, w drunk o y, careering o mobiles FRIDAY ff snow r stupid snowmo Ran alo 31 DECEMBE bilers. today w ne this morninR supplies hile I unloade g on the rive d six t r by hand ons of . Rested my . do my dog food an gs d DAY. as cold. STMAS out and it w old today. I R H C onths e was AY 25 istmas SATURD 7am. My stov wizzle is six m. The last Chr to T Woke at and Spoons. one feed a day y from Alaska z t ne w t li e B g l d Fe he’l g a jour ’d forgotten ho in n r o u d w o s n a I w 1. m e o 0 r n F s in 20 nced alo I experie hwest Territorie e, the t first bik es I covered. y m the Nor hits. t distanc ht abou hard it y, but I thoug , and the huge id. I thank my Funn as a k ave me ce it g eel held back n ially e d n e p e ind n, espec I f w o id d r u e o . c y Not on rever for that e to be on folks fo tmas is no tim Chris es. tim m iver. at eal n the r oose bone. Y o A D n o x G a S N m I h 26 BOX oon wit ely. hewing a SUNDAY light of the m e lay down, c of himself lat kled c H l u a y Ran b wizzle inside. g a great de wizzle soon b l. T in T il k t s Bought has been thin . Submissive, eye. Warm n Twizzle him with Saxo Saxon in the o d e lo ir a o k I p daring t is afternoon. t o n n th dow a little Snowed CONTINUED NEXT MONTH... 66 Gary Rolfe’s diary continues next month. For more information about his expeditions and adventures, visit www.garyrolfe.com Dogs Today December 2005