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Premium Online Quilt Magazine Online Quilt Magazine
Premium Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 5 No. 9
Online Quilt Magazine.com
Easy-To-
Part 2 –
Learn Paper
Quilting Your
Piecing
“Squared Up”
New Project –
Duckling
Baby Quilt
Pattern
Letter
Applique Quilts
Quilt
Surprising
Health
Benefits of
Quilting
Premium Issue Vol.5 No.9 – September 2014
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Online Quilt Magazine Table of Contents
Making the Most of Print Fabrics Using See-Through Templates …………………………………………...………………….…..…………………………………………..……….
Page 4
Split Hatchet Paper Piecing Tutorial ………………………………………………………………………………………….………………………………………………………………………...
Page 8
Common Quilting Questions Answered ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
Page 20
PROJECT –“Squared Up” Quilt – Quilting Designs ………………………………………………….……………………………………………………………………………………………..
Page 25
Letter Applique Quilts - As Exciting Or As Simple As You Make Them! ………………….……………………………………………………………………………………………..
Page 35
PROJECT – “Flowering Gums” BOM Wallhanging – Month 7 ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….
Page 39
Hints and Tips From Brannie …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….………………………………………….
Page 44
What’s New from The Fat Quarter Shop ……………………………………..…………………………….………………………………………………………………………..……………….
Page 46
PROJECT – Ducking Baby Quilt Pattern …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Page 49
No Haystacks, But Plenty of Fish ….……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….
Page 55
Surprising Health Benefits of Quilting ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….
Page 57
Book Reviews ……………………………………………………………………………………………………….……………..…………………………………..………….……………………………...
Page 60
Recipe Corner – Baked Lemon Tart …………………….…………………………………………………..…..……………………………………………………………………………………….
Page 64
Reader “Show and Tell” …………………………………………………………………………………..…………………………….……………………………….………………………………...…
Page 66
BLOCK OF THE MONTH – Double X No 2 Block ……..………….………………………….……....……………........................................................................
Page 72
Today's Tips..................................................................................................................................................................................................................
Page 75
YES – We Want To hear From You ..............................................................................................................................................................................
Page 76
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Letter from the Editor
Jody Anderson
Hi!
This seems to be a month for ‘firsts’, and I have to say, I think that’s a good thing. My daughter is about
to head off on her first school camp with much excitement (and yes – she’s been sleeping in the sleeping
bag in bed all week).
My Grandma used to say “Use it or lose it” – I think about keeping active, but I’m sure she also meant the
brain too, and it’s the mental activity that keeps us going, and life exciting. This is never more important
than in quilting – with so many creative options available, take the time to learn something new. Try a
new technique, or develop a new skill, and challenge yourself to see just what you can do, and keep your
quilting life exciting.
With that in mind, if you’ve not tried paper piecing before, Julie Hirt has a fabulous block this month with
heaps of “How To” photos, so now there’s no excuse! Rose shares a darling baby quilt design, we have
Part 2 with the quilting for last month’s “Squared Up” quilt (get stuck into some free motion quilting),
and there’s so much more in this month’s super-huge issue.
Have a great month!
Jody
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Making the Most of Print Fabrics Using
See-Through Templates
By Candy Hamilton
In these times of speedy sewing techniques and
quilts made in a day, it is inspiring to see some
quilt makers choose their fabric carefully with an
eye toward making the most of beautiful prints.
The process is not fast (each patch must be
marked and cut individually), but the result is a
quilt rich with elegance and splendid in detail.
Happily, quilt makers usually live long enough to
see the results of their efforts.
This style of fabric usage relies on two
ingredients: fabric that has a repeated design that
can be isolated, and see-through templates that
allow the fabric design to be placed precisely.
Fabric manufacturers are currently doing a good
job of providing quilt makers with excellent
fabrics: prints large and small, stripes and border
prints galore.
There are four principal ways to use repeat
design fabric and see-through templates to
enhance pieced quilt patterns.
These techniques are all closely related.
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1. Position the fabric's design motifs
identically in repeating patches used in a
block or segment.
2. Piece selected block patches from smaller
patches in which design motifs have been
positioned.
3. Use border prints or stripes for repeating
patches.
4. Piece selected block patches from smaller
patches in which a design motif and a
border stripe have been positioned (a
combination of numbers 2 and 3).
About Grain Lines
When positioning of fabric design is the primary
consideration in placement of templates, grain
lines become a moot point. You might end up
with more bias edges than you would like on the
outer edges of the block. But patches will not
stretch out of shape by themselves, and careful
pressing will prevent most problems.
If the grain line on the outer edge of the block is
not straight, machine stitch the outside block
edge seam line for stability.
Estimating Yardage
Marking Patches
As you can guess, yardage amounts required for
these techniques will be greater than that for
conventional fabric use where shared cutting
lines allow little leftover fabric. With careful
cutting, however, unused areas of fabric can be
saved and used in other ways.
When selecting fabric, open it up to see how
many repeats there are per yard (or across the
fabric's width); then judge the correct amount to
purchase depending on the number of motifs you
will need.
To see how the fabric's prints will work in the
pieced block without wasting material, you can
make photocopies of your chosen fabrics and
work with them in planning. Dark fabrics should
be photocopied on the "light" machine setting for
the design to show. Any fabrics that do not
photocopy well can be traced for
experimentation.
After determining how you want to position your
see-through template to achieve the desired
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effect, trace enough of the fabric's design on the
template to ensure exact alignment for all
patches. Patches for hand piecing are marked on
the wrong side of the fabric using a template
without seam allowances.
You might want to experiment with placing the
see-through template on the right side of the
fabric to find the best position, then find that
placement on the back side and proceed to mark
all patches. If the fabric print does not show on
the back of the fabric, mark and cut patches as
for machine piecing (explained below), then turn
patches over and mark seam lines on the wrong
side using a template without seam allowances
added.
Join The Club!
Whether you use undecorated pieces or
embroidered patches, for machine piecing they
are marked on the right side of the fabric using a
template with seam allowances added. Mark the
seam line on the template so that you can see the
exact portion of the fabric print that will show
after piecing.
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The placement lines marked on the see-through
template will allow all patches to be cut with the
fabric motifs placed the same way.
If all patches for one pattern piece are cut
identically, the fabric design will usually match at
the seam lines. To be on the safe side, though,
use pins to secure the seam lines at critical
matching points.
A willingness to rip out any imperfect seams and
re-sew will give you the opportunity for perfect
results.
The process of playing with see-through
templates is a cumulative one; the more you try
it, the more possibilities you will discover. And,
many fabrics today offer a multitude of
arrangements of motifs and borders just by
changing the position of the template.
The technique is slower than many others we
enjoy today, and perhaps a pillow would be a
good project to begin with. The results are so
pleasing, though, that the extra time and effort
will be most worthwhile.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Candy_R_Hamilton
It is certainly not necessary (perhaps not even
desirable) to cut every patch with the fabric
design placed in a particular way. Even the High
Gothic stone cutters left areas uncarved; the
plain areas give the eye a rest.
Many quilting fabrics do not have design motifs
that can be isolated; that spontaneity is what
gives many quilts their charm. Besides, you may
want to quickly cut and piece some patches to
vary the pace and keep the project moving along.
It is always acceptable to combine techniques as
best suits the quilt and the quilt maker.
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Split Hatchet Paper Piecing Tutorial
By Julie Hirt from www.627handworks.com
Hello - I'm Julie Hirt from 627handworks.com. I'm
fairly new to quilting, and sewing for that matter.
I purchased my first machine in 2010 and haven't
regretted it for a second. No one in my family
sews or quilts so I took to the internet to teach
me. Along the way I've found great resources as
well as making a lot of 'quilty friends'.
because they taught me how prints and colors
work together. I didn't have to stress about
whether the fabrics would look good together.
Now I have a good sense of what I like and tend
to mix it up a little more. Pre-cuts are still on my
list because I can I can play with all the prints in a
collection and buy larger cuts of my favorites.
My favorite thing to make is quilts. The very first
quilt I owned was the first quilt I made. The
process was an eye opener as well as being my
first sewing experience. I've been addicted ever
since and my fabric obsession has grown steadily
as well.
I'm typically drawn to what are considered
'modern' fabrics; basically I enjoy bright colors
and fun, clear prints. Instagram, Flickr, personal
quilt blogs and even online fabric shops provide
an endless stream of ideas. Admiring others work
is what really motivates and inspires me. It's
amazing what people create and how generous
this community is.
Pre-cuts really helped me in the beginning
Music has always been really important in my life
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and after tackling some paper piecing projects, I
decided to make some patterns. Surprising
myself, I was able to create 12 blocks in a series
called Block Rock'n. They are free patterns,
available on my website, named after some of my
favorite bands or songs.
Since I lack any type of formal introduction to
sewing or quilting, I think it's made me a little
more carefree. I don't really know what is
considered the right or wrong way and I'll try
something to see if it works.
I hope you enjoy my following Split Hatchet paper
piecing tutorial. If you've never paper pieced
before I encourage you to give it a try!
For this tutorial I am using the 5" template.
Included are templates for 3", 4", 5" and 6". This
is a great project to use up some scraps!
Grab a few fabric scraps and print off a few
templates. It will open the door for all kinds of
new patterns.
(Download Julie’s set of templates from:
http://www.onlinequiltmagazine.com/members/cont
ent/f/id/399/ or from:
http://www.quiltblockofthemonthclub.com/downloa
d.php?file=julie-hirts-split-hatchet-blocktemplates.pdf You may need to copy and paste these
links into your web browser bar.)
What's the worst that can happen?
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Set your stitch length to a lower number - I like to
use between 1.2 - 1.5. This makes it easier to tear
the paper off when you are finished.
Print several copies of the template size you
prefer. Trim your pieces leaving a little paper
around the dotted line.
Make sure to give yourself plenty of fabric
allowance. Choose pieces that are at least 1/2"
bigger on all sides of the template, including the
dotted line.
We will be following the number order on the
template.
We will be stitching along the printed lines and
the fabric will be sewn to the back side.
To start, grab your first piece of fabric and hold it
up to the template making sure it fully covers the
area.
Gather up your fabrics.
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Paper piecing:
The way this works is you stitch along the lines
between numbers. In this case, between #1 and
#2. After stitching, you fold the second fabric
over and it will be in the space intended, facing
right side up. This is why the fabric is placed right
side facing down - it will be folded over to the
pretty side after stitching.
Place it right side up on the back of the paper.
The first piece will be the only one you place right
side up. I like to use a few dabs from a glue stick
to hold piece #1 in place.
The fabric is placed opposite from the space it's
intended and only crossing into the space enough
for a stitch line. Place your second piece of
fabric, right side down, opposite the #2 space.
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Hold it up to a light source so you can see the
fabric edge extends over the sewing line.
Stitch in in place - don't forget to use a small
stitch size.
It should look something like this.
Fold the second piece of fabric over:
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Iron. You don't want to use steam because it will
deform your paper.
Now both pieces are right side up and cover
spaces #1 and #2.
Fold the fabric back so you can see the stitch line
and trim the excess fabric to 1/4".
Repeat the process for space #3. Lay your fabric
right side DOWN, opposite the space it will cover.
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Hold it up to light to verify it extends past the
stitch line.
Stitch in place.
Iron.
Trim the excess fabric from the stitch line.
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It will look something like this.
Hold it up to light to verify it extends past the
stitch line.
You repeat the process for space #4. Lay your
fabric right side down, opposite the space it will
cover.
Stitch in place.
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Iron.
LUDLOW QUILT AND SEW
Discover new and exciting projects to quilt and
sew each month with clear and easy to follow
instructions.
Visit our website and subscribe to Ludlow
Quilt and Sew’s free monthly newsletter now.
www.ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk
Trim.
Keep up to Date with What’s Happening on our
Facebook Page – Do You Love Quilting Too?
Bonus blocks, hints and tips added all the time!!
http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/DoYou-Love-Quilting-Too/271888039492644
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Now you have this:
The back looks like this:
Trim your block to the DOTTED line.
You have a paper pieced Split Hatchet! Don't
remove the paper.
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Sew them together using the outer solid line as a
stitch line.
After you get the hang of it you can play with
different size scraps and even triangle pieces for
the corners. Create several more blocks.
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You can arrange the blocks several different
ways: X's, O's, you can even have them all going
the same direction.
Your fabric choices can create a completely
different look as well.
Keep making more blocks! After you are done
you can remove all the paper from the back.
You'll be glad you used that tiny stitch, too!
About the Author: Julie Hirt is a stitcher and fabric fanatic
who mostly quilts, but also dabbles in crochet and other
crafts. Julie lives in Lenexa with her husband, two daughters
and three spoiled dogs. You can find her blog and patterns
at 627handworks.com
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Quilting Question Answers
By Leah Day from www.FreeMotionQuilting.blogspot.com.au
This month, we’re continuing a series of everyday
quilting questions that have been answered by
Leah.
Why is this continuing to happen?!
Full Question: What am I doing wrong??? Could
the bird's nests, skipped stitches, broken needles
be operator error (This mainly happens when I
stitch backwards)? Could it be that the bigger
quilt is pulling? Should I take the machine in for
a check-up? It seems I can get rid of a lot of the
problems, but they never really completely go
away.
First off, Pat has already systematically diagnosed
this problem as she outlines right here. Each
change and modification she's made has shown
some improvement, but even still, issues are still
cropping up.
Photo from Pat at Color Me Quilty
And this is a pretty weird problem to happen quilting on a normal practice sandwich and
breaking needles.
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Put it this way - needles don't just break
randomly.
I can bet on breaking needles if I stitch through a
super dense area of a quilt, or very fast over an
area of multiple seam allowances, or if I squarely
hit something I shouldn't, like a pin.
But just normal quilting over a practice sandwich
of 2 pieces of fabric with batting in the middle?
No. Needles have no reason to break here.
So why are Pat's needles breaking?
There is actually one other thing your needles can
hit while quilting - the edges of your needle
plate. Whether you're using a single or wide-hole
needle plate, this is metal plate forms the base of
your machine and is what your needle drops
down into whenever it forms a stitch.
When working correctly, your needle raises
straight up, then sinks right now into the machine
in a perfectly straight line. However, if you're
dealing with a big quilt, and if you're putting a lot
of tension and pressure on that quilt, you can
potentially bend your needle as you quilt in a
particular direction.
If you bend the needle too far, as it drops down
into the machine, instead of fitting perfectly into
the needle plate, it's going to hit the edge. And
break.
Unfortunately if you do this enough times, or
even one time with enough force, you can
potentially throw off entire top of your machine.
You can also ding up your needle plate pretty
badly. If you hit it just right, you might create a
sharp edge on the surface of your needle plate,
which if your thread rubs against it, will cause it
to shred.
All this doom and gloom isn't really comforting, I
know. I don't know any quilter that says "I can't
wait to have my machine serviced!" I can't stand
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it because it's time consuming and a bother.
But, it's still necessary. If you break needles more
than 5 times on a quilt and you're shredding
thread constantly, that's a sign it's time for a tune
up. A good repair man will return your needle to
perfect center position, remove any burrs or
sharp edges from your needle plate, and sort out
any timing issues that have cropped up from the
jarring impact of the needle down into the
bobbin case.
Now - how do you avoid breaking needles in the
first place? How do you avoid having these issues
which can be a real pain to fix?
#1. Don't bend the needle - You might not even
notice you're doing this because it's subtle. You
might be slightly pulling the needle forward or
backward only 3 or 4 milimeters, but that could
be enough to cause it to come in contact with the
needle plate.
Just pay attention to how you're pulling and
pushing the quilt at all times. Try not to force it in
a direction, particularly when the needle is
halfway in or out of the quilt. When the needle is
out of the machine, but still inside the quilt, it can
bend if you're pulling on the quilt significantly.
#2. Avoid certain directions - Is your thread
breaking every time you stitch backwards? Stop
stitching backwards
I know it sounds crazy, but I've had multiple
machines that it was just impossible to quilt in
that direction and you can make allowances for it.
It seems limiting, but ultimately you will have
fewer problems if you just keep rotating the quilt
and avoid the problematic directions.
#3. Reduce the drag, increase mobility - Most of
these issues will be greatly reduced if your quilt is
easier to move. A drop down, flat bed sewing
machine table can make a dramatic difference.
There will be far less strain on your needle and
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thread if the quilt is easy to move and doesn't
require an enormous amount of contortion to get
to each new area.
If you're wondering if it's the quilt or your
machine that is causing the issues - take a
practice sandwich and practice the same designs.
If things suddenly improve on a 12 inch square,
but go crazy on the real quilt - you have your
answer. It's the drag and strain on the needle
that's causing the issues.
distance it just looks like the bottom thread is
just laying on the surface of the fabric).
Of course I didn't notice this until I was finished
with the danged thing. Should I pull it out? I
don't think I (or my daughter) really mind it that
way because it's on the back ... but I don't want
to leave it there if it's going to affect the
sturdiness or washability of the quilt.
Now for another question about stitching issues:
Will loops on the back of my quilt damage its
integrity?
Full Question: I just finished FMQing my
daughter's quilt and I see this a lot on the back,
only the loops aren't huge. They are just barely
loose enough so that the stitches don't look like
stitches (the top thread is just barely wrapping
around the bottom thread so that from the right
My guide on loops / severe tension issues is
simple: give the non-looping thread a tug. If you
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can pull it out easily, you'll need to rip out that
stitching and quilt it again.
Chances are the loops were caused by a missed
thread guide or tension disc. Sometimes the
machine still stitches normally and makes no
noticeable sound, even though the stitches are
totally not working properly.
But if one thread is looping so severely that you
can easily tug and pull the opposite thread off the
quilt - that stitching is just not secure.
If it's over a very small section - a block, or a
section of sashing, then it might be okay to leave
it. The entire quilt? Probably not.
It doesn't have to be densely stitched because
technically the layers are already together, but
this would hide the looping side and secure the
layers together.
Leah Day
About the Author: Leah Day is the author of the Free
Motion Quilting Project, a blog project dedicated to
creating new free motion quilting designs each week and
sharing them all for FREE! Leah is also the author of From
Daisy to Paisley - 50 Beginner Free Motion Quilting Designs,
a spiral bound book featuring 50 designs from the project,
and she now has three Free Motion Quilting classes
available through Craftsy.com. www.daystyledesigns.com
One solution for Becki that would not involve
hours of ripping would be to baste the quilt with
a new backing to cover the loops and to openly
quilt the quilt again - stitch it in the ditch and very
generally go over the previous stitching.
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Project – “Squared Up” Quilt
By Jody Anderson from www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com
This month, we have the directions for you to
finish our “Squared Up” modern quilt from
last month, with a variety of different freemotion quilting designs.
Many of these designs are from Leah Day’s
collection, and you can find videos and more
detail at her website
http://freemotionquilting.blogspot.com.au/ .
(She also has a great video on setting your
machine up for free-motion quilting.) These
were quilted in the rows on a domestic
machine.
If you want to, practise drawing these
designs on paper first, until you get the
movement comfortable. You will find you do
some travel stitching with some of these
designs too.
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You Will Need:
plain dark grey fabric for binding
Wadding / Batting measuring at least 58 x 58
inches
Backing Fabric measuring at least 58 x 58 inches
(we pieced ours with big squares and rectangles
from more of the same fabric.)
Water erasable fabric marking pen/selected
marker for marking quilting lines on light and
dark fabric
Quilting:
Place the backing face down on a large flat
surface and tape the edges out flat, then lay the
wadding/batting and quilt top right side up over
it, smoothing out any wrinkles as you go. Pin or
thread-baste the layers together in a four inch
grid.
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Use your fabric marking pens and a
large ruler to mark the vertical and
horizontal lines shown in red, in the
diagram above.
If you have a walking foot for your
machine, you may prefer to use it
now, as you sew on all of those red
marked lines to divide your quilt top
into a grid.
Each vertical and horizontal row
following the pieced squares has a
different free-motion quilted design,
and a mixture of both in the
numbered squares where those lines
intersect.
The plain designs below fit in the rectangle parts of each row,
between the squares where two designs merge.
We did a simple back and forth wiggle between the pieced
square blocks (shown in blue in the diagram above.
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The Designs:
Stippling – we did a
fairly open simple
stipple
Squares – freemotion square
shapes, and then just
sew on to make a
new square shape
etc.
Loopy – like stippling,
but add in a loop every
here and there as you
go
Spirals – curve around a
large circle shape,
spiralling inwards, then
come to a point, and
echo the spiral as you
come out.
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Paisley – This is a
fairly rounded
paisley. Start with
the inner loop and
echo it, coming back
to the same point at
the bottom. Travel
up the side and start
another set of loops
to fill the space.
Pebbles – sew
around in circles
to fill in the space.
Keep them even,
or mix it up with
large and small
circles.
English Ivy – based
on a stipple, with
double echoed
hearts every so
often.
Flames – this is a
bit like
McTavishing, and
very similar to the
paisley design, but
it comes to a point
and may have
more echoes.
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The following photos are our blended design blocks, to give you an idea of how to merge the different
designs together. Please just use them as an idea. (Photo quality is not great, as I have adjusted it to try
and show the quilting lines more clearly.)
Square 1 – Stippling and Flames
Square 2 – Stippling and English Ivy
Square 3 – Stippling and Pebbles
Square 4 – Stippling and Paisley
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Square 5 –Loopy and Flames
Square 6 –Loopy and English Ivy
Square 7 – Loopy and Pebbles
Square 8 – Loopy and Paisley
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Square 9 – Squares and Flames
Square 10 – Squares and English Ivy
Square 11 – Squares and Pebbles
Square 12 – Squares and Paisley
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Square 13 – Spirals and Flames
Square 14 – Spirals and English Ivy
Square 15 – Spirals and Pebbles
Square 16 – Spirals and Paisley
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Binding:
colourfast fabric marker on a square of pale
coloured fabric, or you might choose to
embroider those details.
We used the plain grey fabric for the binding.
Cut 2¼ inch wide strips from your remaining
piece of fabric and join them with 45 degree
seams. Press the ¼ inch seams open, then fold
the strip in half, right sides out and press.
Beginning about halfway along one side of the
quilt, join the binding to the edge with a quarter
inch seam, mitring each corner as you go. Trim
the batting and backing a quarter inch beyond
the edge of the quilt top. Turn the folded edge of
the binding to the back of the quilt and hand slip
or machine stitch it in place with thread that
matches the binding.
Congratulations – You've Finished!
You must be thrilled with your new quilt and
we're certain that you will receive many great
compliments on your work. Please don't forget
to take a photo and email it through to us at
[email protected] .
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For more Original and Exclusive Quilts, go
to www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Label & Hanging Sleeve:
It is important to attach a rod pocket (if this is to
be a wallhanging quilt) and label to each quilt you
make with the date, your name and details like
the name of the Quilt and for whom it was made.
Labels can be as simple as just writing with a
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Letter Applique Quilts - As Exciting Or As Simple
As You Make Them!
By Penny Halgren from www.How-To-Quilt.com
Letter appliqué quilt patterns can be as simple or
as exciting as you want!
themed quilt, movie fonts that would allow you
to replicate a favorite movie theme, etc.
There are thousands of fonts available free of
charge on the Internet. Starting your letter
appliqué quilt pattern search on a free font
website is a good idea.
Most font websites have their styles broken down
into categories, which will make your search for
your letter appliqué much easier. Are you making
a quilt for your granddaughter? Look in the
"curly" or "cute" category.
Looking for a boy-themed font? Try "old school"
or "athletic" fonts. There are also western fonts
that would be great for a cowboy or cowgirl
Once you find the font you'd like to use for your
letter appliqué quilt pattern, download it
according to your computer's instructions. If
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you've never downloaded a font, most computers
have instructions on how to do so. It's usually as
simple as clicking on the "download now" button
on the font website. When the popup asks if you
want to open or save, choose open.
letter from the fabric. Now the letter can be
ironed onto your quilt top.
Once you've opened the font file, select "extract
all files." The next popup window will ask you
where to save the file. You'll need to put it in your
font folder in order to access the font later. That's
all there is to it.
Once you've downloaded your font, you can get
back to your letter appliqué quilt pattern. Using
whatever program you generally use on your
computer, type the letter you want to use for
your appliqué quilt.
Select the letter by highlighting it and change the
font to your downloaded choice. Alter the size to
fit your needs for the letter appliqué quilt pattern
and print out the letter. That's your pattern.
Iron on a fusible webbing to the back of your
selected fabric. Use your print out to cut the
There are a number of wonderful products on the
market to help control fabric fraying. Check with
your favorite craft or fabric shop and pick one.
Adding an anti-fray product helps to insure a
long-lasting professional finish to your letter
appliqué quilt pattern!
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Once your fray inhibitor has been given sufficient
time to dry (usually 15 to 30 minutes), you will be
ready to move on to stitching.
fabric. Instead, they'll simply lay their fabric on
top and the embroidery machine will stitch an
outline that will attach the fabric to the quilt.
You may hand stitch, using a blanket stitch to
complete your letter appliqué quilt pattern.
When they remove the fabric from the machine
(but not from the embroidery hoop!), trim away
excess fabric, then add a fray prevention product.
With a sewing machine, you made decide to
either zig-zag or run a satin stitch around the
border of your letter appliqué quilt pattern.
Other options exist for machine embroiderers
who digitize. Upon sizing the letter to use for the
appliqué, highlight the letter and choose to add
an outline around it.
A four to eight point outline generally works best.
While the letter is highlighted, change the inside
color to "none." This will leave only an outline of
the letter.
Leave it to the embroidery machine to complete
the applique with the stitching the machine
embroiderer selected during digitizing.
Whether you create your letter quilt by hand,
sewing machine or embroidery machine, letter
appliqué quilt patterns are one of the best ways
to give a unique, personal gift.
Complete the digitizing process and the
embroidery machine will do most of the work.
Machine embroiderers won't need to use fusible
webbing or cut the letter out of their selected
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And don't forget to observe copyright laws when
using free fonts. Some font authors don't mind
and others will allow you do to sell products
featuring their fonts if you contact them to ask
permission.
FREE block patterns at http://627handworks.com/
About the Author: Penny Halgren is a quilter of more
than 27 years, and enjoys sharing her love of quilting
with others. Sign up for her free quilting tips, quilt
patterns, and newsletter at
http://www.How-to-Quilt.com
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Project – Flowering Gum Wallhanging – Month 7
By Annette Mira-Bateman from www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com
This is the second-last
month of this Block of the
Month project, and this
month you will assemble
all borders.
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You Will Need:
First Border:
The centre panel, your hexagon border, and the 2
sizes of pinwheel blocks you have made already.
To start, trim your centre panel to measure 11¾
inches x 15¾ inches.
½ metre ( ¾ yard) dark chocolate brown fabric for
hexagons and border
From the dark chocolate brown fabric, cut 2 strips
measuring 15¾ inches x 6½ inches and sew them
to each of the sides of the centre panel. Press.
¾ metre ( 1 yard) spotty mid-dark green batik
fabric for hexagons, border and binding
¼ metre ( ¼ yard) OR piece at least 30 inches x 8
inches plain pale lilac purple fabric for border
1½ metres ( 1¾ yards) plain cream fabric for
pinwheels and border
Fusible webbing for applique
From the dark chocolate fabric, cut 2 strips
measuring 23¾ inches x 6½ inches and sew them
across top and bottom edges. Press well.
Remove papers from the wrong sides of your
hexagons. We used small pieces of fusible
webbing placed on the wrong side of the pieced
hexagon border to help keep it secure on the
brown border.
Position the pieced hexagon border evenly on the
brown border as shown, then fuse in place.
To attach the hexagon border, either hand stitch
the inner and outer edges to the brown fabric,
with invisible stitches, or topstitch very close to
the edge.
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Second Border:
Third Border:
From the lilac purple fabric, cut two strips
measuring 1¼ inches x 27¾ inches and sew them
to the sides of the brown border. Press.
To start making the quilt off-centre, the next
borders are wider at the right hand side and
bottom.
From the lilac purple fabric, cut two strips
measuring 1¼ inches x 25¼ inches and sew them
across top and bottom. Press.
From the spotty mid-dark green batik fabric, cut 1
strip 1¼ inch wide x 29¾ inches and sew to the
left hand side of the lilac border. Press.
From the spotty mid-dark green batik fabric, cut 1
strip 2¾ inches wide x 29¾ inches and sew to the
right hand side of the lilac border. Press.
From the spotty mid-dark green batik fabric, cut 1
strip 1¼ inch wide x 28¾ inches and sew across
the top. Press.
From the spotty mid-dark green batik fabric, cut 1
strip 2¾ inches wide x 28¾ inches and sew across
the bottom. Press.
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For the top, sew together 17 small pinwheels and
sew across the top of the panel.
For the bottom border, sew together 2 small
pinwheels first. Sew these vertically to the left
hand end of 8 joined 4 inch pinwheel blocks. Sew
this strip across the bottom edge, taking care to
match the seams where the side blocks join.
Fourth Border:
Stitch together a row of 16 small pinwheels and
press. These need to fit on the left hand side
border. You may need to trim your green border
slightly for a perfect fit.
Stitch together 8 of the 4 inch pinwheel blocks
and press. Sew this strip to the right-hand side
border.
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Fifth Border:
From the plain cream fabric, cut 1 strip measuring
3 inches x 38½ inches and sew to the left hand
side border. Press.
From the plain cream fabric, cut 1 strip measuring
5½ inches x 38½ inches and sew to the right hand
side border. Press.
From the plain cream fabric, cut 1 strip measuring
3 inches x 42 inches and sew across the top.
Press.
From the plain cream fabric, cut 1 strip measuring
5½ inches x 42 inches and sew across the bottom
edge. Press.
Next Month, you will finish your wallhanging!
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Hints and Tips From Brannie
By "Brannie" Mira-Bateman
We've been to all these places with girls' names Adelaide, Alice and now Katherine.
Someone has just sent my Dad a message on the
computer thing saying that I was an "intrepid cat
explorer". I don't really know what that means,
but I quite like the sound of it.
On our big caravan trip, we usually stop at night
in a rest area back from the road. Occasionally
we are very close to the road and then we all
have trouble sleeping.
There are very big noisy trucks up here - several
trucks joined together. Mum said they are called
Road Trains. They sound like real trains in the
night! They take a long time to pass us on the
road.
One night they found a spot to stop down the
end of a dirt road. Lovely. Very quiet apart from
some interesting birds with different noises.
They were telling me to get lost. The cheek of
them! We have been getting warmer each day,
too, which is good.
This night before the sun set, they sat outside the
van to read for a while. Now, when they go out I
usually take the opportunity to poke around in
the van and get up on shelves I'm not supposed
to be on.
When it was too dark to see their books outside,
Mum came in and found what I had left for them
on the mat.
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"Oh, Brannie! Have you been sick? Couldn't you
have aimed for the floor?" etc. etc.
You know how it is Quilty-cats. She picked up the
mat square and looked hard. (no lights on yet).
"Is that sick or....?? What IS it?"
Finally she poked it and recoiled in horror. A
cold, wet, used teabag! I had just fished it out of
the rubbish on the bench.
What a good trick! They weren't impressed. I
curled up on the bed - inscrutably.
I wonder what I can do next. I've already killed a
ball of her wool and left it on the floor for them
to find. They play games with me, so I can give
them some entertainment, too. I'll have to give
this some thought. Nap attack coming.
Love Brannie,
Intrepid Explorer and the Quilt Block of the
Month Club Cat!
Check out my large range of Batiks!
Contact Pamela Davis of Patchwork Quintessential at [email protected]
Or phone Pamela on 02 6292 3727 or 0448 232 647.
Please leave a message!
Remember to book your Patchwork Party Plan timeslot;
there are only so many opportunities to play with new
fabrics, hear stories about them and have fun with your
friends over a cup of tea. Get in early!
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What's New from The Fat Quarter Shop
From Kimberly Jolly at www.FatQuarterShop.com
We're pleased to be able to bring you a selection
each month of the Newest Fabric Releases and
the new season fabric "must haves".
Somerset was inspired by an impressionist
painting of an autumn garden in full bloom.
It is grounded with dark earthy browns and soft
greys with persimmon and citron hues that evoke
an autumn garden of your dreams.
This range is available in all the cut goods and
yardage.
View this Range at:
http://www.fatquartershop.com/modafabric/somerset-fig-tree-quilts-moda-fabrics/
SOMERSET BY FIG TREE QUILTS FOR MODA FABRICS
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MOON SHINE BY TULA PINK FOR FREE SPIRIT
FABRICS
LOL BY ME AND MY SISTER DESIGNS FOR MODA
FABRICS
Inspired by all of what the great outdoors has to
offer, such as deer, florals, and camping. Tula
presents her newest collection in three
colorways, dandelion, strawberry, and meadow.
Available in all the cut goods, yardage, and an
exclusive Designer Select Fat Quarter Bundle.
LOL says it when describing these fun new prints
from Me and My Sister Designs! Inspired by
texting abbreviations, these prints will make you
Laugh Out Loud! Don’t forget to text all of your
friends about this new collection. Available in all
the cut goods and yardage.
Check it out at: http://www.fatquartershop.com/freespirit/moon-shine-tula-pink-free-spirit-fabrics/
See this collection at:
http://www.fatquartershop.com/moda-fabric/lol-meand-my-sister-designs-moda-fabrics/
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GEOMETRIC BLISS BY JENI BAKER FOR ART GALLERY
FABRICS
A blissful collection of folk inspired florals and
edgy prints that’s full of movement. Explore bold
color combinations and design that’s a perfect
mix of modern and retro. Available in all the cut
goods and yardage.
See More at: http://www.fatquartershop.com/artgallery-fabrics/geometric-bliss-jeni-baker-art-galleryfabrics
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PROJECT – Duckling Baby Quilt Pattern
By Rose Smith from www.ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk
I’ve put a blue border on this baby quilt but I
suppose it would have made more sense to
use a green border so that it could be used
for a boy or a girl baby.
It measures 44 inches square. I have used ¼
yard of gold fabric, ½ yard of blue and ¾ yard
of both white and yellow.
I’ve used the gold for the duckling’s beak and
also at odd places around the outline and
along the wing. I wanted to have something
to break up the colour a bit, but I didn’t want
anything too regular like a complete outline
of gold – that’s why the gold triangles are
placed fairly randomly – it’s all part of the
design!
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Cutting requirements for the duckling baby quilt
2½ inch squares: one black, six gold, one hundred and seventy one yellow, one hundred and thirty one
white
2.7/8 inch squares: ten each in gold and white, six each in gold and yellow
Please bear with me if I haven’t quite got the count right on the yellow and white squares! What I
actually did was use strips of fabric where there were several squares of the same colour in a row – for
example, instead of two squares I would use a 4½ inch by 2½ inch strip or instead of ten squares I would
use a 20½ inch by 2½ inch strip. However in the instructions below I will just list the number of
individual squares for each row.
For the duckling quilt border you will need two 4½ inch strips of blue 40½ inches long and two 2½ inch
strips 44 ½ inches long.
Making the duckling baby quilt
Make half square triangles with the 2.7/8 inch squares in
either gold and white or gold and yellow as listed above.
Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line
along the diagonal. Sew a ¼ inch seam either side of the
marked line and cut along the line to produce two half
square triangle units. Press the seam allowances towards
the gold fabric and trim the corners of the squares.
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I will list the squares across each row and just say
‘triangle’ – it will be more simple for you to check the
photos to see which triangle and which way to place it.
So here goes:
Row 1: 3 white, triangle, 4 yellow, triangle, 11 white
Row 2: 2 white, triangle, 3 yellow, 1 white, 2 yellow,
triangle, 10 white
Row 3: 2 white, 4 yellow, 3 white, 1 yellow, 10 white
Row 4: 2 white, 3 yellow, 4 white, 1 yellow, triangle, 9
white
Row 5: 2 white, 3 yellow, 1 black, 1 white, 4 yellow, 9
white
Row 6: 1 white, triangle, 1 gold, 7 yellow, triangle, 9
white
Row 7: 4 gold, 6 yellow, 10 white
Row 8: 1 white, triangle, 1 gold, 6 yellow, triangle, 2
white, triangle, 5 yellow, triangle, 1 white
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Row 9: 3 white, 5 yellow, 2 white, 2 yellow, 1 white, 6
yellow, triangle
Row 10: 3 white, 17 yellow
Row 11: 2 white, triangle, 6 yellow, 1 white, 5 yellow,
triangle, 4 yellow
Row 12: 2 white, 8 yellow, triangle, 2 yellow, 3 white,
triangle, 3 yellow
Row 13: 1 white, 8 yellow, triangle, triangle, 8 yellow
Row 14: 1 white, 10 yellow, triangle, triangle, 3 white,
triangle, 2 yellow, 1 white
Row 15: 1 white, 11 yellow, triangle, triangle, 1 yellow,
triangle, 2 yellow, triangle, 1 white
Row 16: 1 white, triangle, 16 yellow, 2 white
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Row 17: 2 white, triangle, 10 yellow, triangle, 2 white
Row 18: 3 white, triangle, 11 yellow, triangle, 4 white
As I finished each set of four rows I would sew them all to
each other so that if I had made a mistake it would show
up immediately and I could correct it.
I think that it also helps being able to see the duckling
come together, because otherwise some of the rows of
patchwork can seem a bit meaningless when looked at
individually.
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Finally to enclose the duckling I used strips of blue fabric.
These are not the same size all round – the border is
wider at the top and bottom than it is on the sides of the
baby quilt.
You will need two 4½ inch strips 40½ inches long for the
top and bottom and two, 2½ inch strips 44 ½ inches long
for the sides. You should be able to use the leftover 4½
inch strips to cut a little extra 2½ inch fabric to add to the
2½ inch strips to make the length. That will save you
having to cut another 2½ inch strip just for the few extra
inches that you will need to make the required length.
The duckling baby quilt top is now complete and ready for
layering, quilting and binding.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
About the Designer: Rose Smith was born and brought up in Zambia in Africa. She moved to the UK when she
was 18 and now lives in Shropshire, indulging her passion for quilting and sewing. She has sewn all her life ‘anything that stood still long enough’ in the words of her children - but now finds that patchwork and quilting
have taken over her life. She indulges this passion by posting patterns and tutorials on her website for all to
share. www.ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk
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No Haystacks, But Plenty of Fish
By Pamela Davis of Patchwork Quint-essential
Dear Quilters-All
I’d like to say I’m missing things – the Canberra
Quilter’s exhibition and all that stuff, but truth to
tell, basking in the warmth of the tropics with the
memory fresh of the recent Quilt Show in Sydney,
I’m not.
Where am I? Well, get yourself to Bali, hop on
another plane and turn a bit left, NE to be more
precise. You’ll have to travel via Makassar – yes,
that’s THE Makassar of ‘antimacassar’ fame.
(Remember the covers Granny had for the arms
and headrests of her amply-upholstered lounge
suite? Apparently they were there to protect the
upholstery from the stains made by Grandpa’s
hair oil, and that oil was from Makassar. I don’t
know whether it’s the same stuff nowadays, but
Makassar oil today is made from an age-old
recipe and is reputed to have more uses than
goanna oil!! )
Anyway, get yourself to Makassar, wait there a
couple of hours and take the next big plane to
Kendari. Now I speak from bitter experience:
don’t be tempted to hop on any old plane to get
there! You need a plane big enough to land in all
weathers or you may find yourself retracing your
flight path to refuel – take it from me, an hour in
the air is much better than four, plus refuelling
time on the tarmac!
Kendari is a city on the eastern coast of the
eastern leg of the main island of Sulawesi,
Indonesia, situated on a wide bay.
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Marigold Hotel. I can easily imagine myself as
Judi Dench…….
As for haystacks? Well, there are no needles to be
had here – at least my reconnaissance to date
hasn’t turned up any. A veritable rainbow of
thread (poly-cotton) for a pittance ($2! ), but no
hand-sewing needles. You’d best pop a packet in
your luggage when you come…..
At the moment it’s the dry season – that will last
until about October – so things are pretty dusty.
But with temperatures hovering around the midtwenties, I can live with that.
I’m having to put up with laundry beautifully
done, delicious fish meals presented as if by
magic, and the most housework I have done is to
unpack my suitcase. It all sounds too good to be
true, but it’s not!! In fact, I’m thinking seriously
of opening a Sulawesi version of The Best Exotic
And there’s inspiration a-plenty for free-motion
quilters. On fences, gates and window grills there
are patterns wrought, on cupboards and doors
there are patterns carved and on ceilings,
luxuriant roses; maybe I should begin a book of
free-motion designs………….. Oh, did I tell you
about the silk fabrics? Maybe next time….
About the Author: Pamela Davis has been an avid sewer since she
was 10 years old. Pamela’s business – “Patchwork Quintessential” is based in Canberra, Australia; you can visit Pamela in
her studio, or it is quite possible that she can bring 12 boxes of
exclusive Asian fabrics to you and your patchworking friends. Just
contact her on 0448 232 647, or 06292 3727 or email on
[email protected] to organize a Patchwork Party. Please
leave a message, if she is out Party-ing!!
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Surprising Health Benefits of Quilting
By Jillynn Stevens
not be replicable through outdoor/physical
activity."
You know that quilting makes you feel good, but
now there's scientific evidence to back up what
you've always suspected - not only does quilting
make you happy, it's actually good for your
health.
Researchers at the University of Glasgow
published their findings in the peer-reviewed
Journal of Public Health after conducting
qualitative research using a local quilting group as
their source.
The end result?
"Quilting seemed to possess some distinct
properties for enhancing well-being that would
In other words, that's dry research speak for
saying quilting gives you a workout you're not
going to find in your local step class.
The biggest perk? When you're happy and doing
something you love, your brain gets saturated
with dopamine and serotonin, otherwise known
as happy chemicals - especially when you're
doing "meaningful work" using your hands.
According to Kelly Lambert, PhD and a member of
the neuroscience department at RandolphMacon College, quilting complements these
conditions perfectly.
Next on the health benefits list is a decrease in
stress levels. Dr. Lambert says quilters "feel a
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sense of accomplishment that increases your
'reward chemicals' and decreases the chemicals
related to stress or anxiety."
Of course, lower stress levels are linked to a
variety of good things from a lower risk of heart
attack and stroke to lower body fat.
In a time when stress levels are breaking through
the roof for most people, who wouldn't benefit
from a little cultivation of mindfulness?
If you're more into quantitative proof, a clinical
psychologist published research in the Journal of
the American Medical Association showing
evidence that quilting leads to decreased blood
pressure, heart rate and perspiration.
Finally, according to Harvard neurologist Marie
Pasinski, MD, quilting is a soother for the brain.
The Glasgow research echoes these sentiments,
with the participants saying that quilting was a
(relatively) easy way to embrace creativity, and
the use of different colors and textures gave
them a "sense of wellbeing."
The Glasgow participants specifically cited, time
and again, bright colors and how they elevated
their moods - particularly during those dreary
British winters.
Most of the group also said there was something
captivating about quilting and that they got into a
flow, much like a runner's high. It's relaxing and
at least for a little while, their anxieties were put
on the back burner.
However, quilting also requires problem solving
skills, like when new patterns and shapes are
required.
From newbies to quilt masters, everyone said
that at some point they always find a new
challenge.
Finally, getting that tangible end result is a builtin reward that offers plenty of satisfaction and
the feeling of achievement.
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During the social aspect of quilting as a group, the
women said they felt inspired and all those
compliments don't hurt when it comes to getting
a self-esteem boost.
Your Friends Will Be Shocked to Discover That You
Learned How to Make and Machine Quilt a
Beautiful Family Heirloom Quilt Simply by
Watching TV!
Quilting is "uniquely good for you" concluded
researchers-a sentiment that's obvious for
quilters, but it's quite the rush to get a nod from
the world of academe (kind of like nailing that
tumbling blocks pattern on your first try).
Not only does quilting have health benefits, it
often takes place in the company of good friends
and family.
About the Author: Jillynn Stevens, Ph.D. is a writer with a
vast array of subject matter expertise. Along with
publishing articles for large and small businesses, she
researches, writes and publishes reports on various public
policy issues. For fabric and more, see Novelty Quilt Fabric,
your online quilting supply store.
Article Source:
http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jillynn_Stevens,_Ph.D.,_MSW
Unlock the secrets for beautiful machine quilting
using your home sewing machine by simply
watching this video on your TV or computer.
Details showing how to set up your machine and
guide your quilt as you machine quilt on your home
sewing machine.
You will get beautiful results using the techniques
in this quilting resource!
www.MachineQuiltingAdventure.com
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Book Reviews
By Annette Mira-Bateman from www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com
If you’re a fan of Modern Quilts, this book is one
to add to your reference library.
Kimberly’s stunning designs merge modern and
traditional styles, while using fast construction
methods.
The book is full of great photos (including lots of
close-ups), and there are lots of detailed
diagrams to walk you through making and
assembling these blocks and quilts.
There are 10 different quilt projects in this book,
plus a couple of bonus ‘re-do’ projects, where
you can rearrange blocks to create completely
different quilts.
These quilts also offer the chance to showcase
some spectacular quilting, and it’s well worth
“Modern Quilts and More” By Kimberly Einmo
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taking a good look at the photos in the book for
ideas and inspiration.
“Modern Quilts and More” by Kimberly Einmo is
available from: American Quilter's Society, PO
Box 3290, Paducah KY 42002-3290 or
www.americanquilter.com, or ask your quilt book
retailer.
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Wow! What a great book, based on a great idea!
Author Robert DeCarli has a wonderful story
behind his journey into quilting, and in the
process, figuring out a very clever method of
using strip piecing techniques to make blocks that
when combined, give the illusion of woven
coverlets – complete with complex designs and
patterns.
Robert has called on his mathematical
background to simplify this large variety of
designs, to make them suitable for quilt-making.
There are plenty of ‘how-to’ diagrams, and
instructions are clear and easy to understand.
Learn how to stitch bold designs with the
appearance of curves and diamonds, all made
using only rectangles and squares.
“Remarkable Rectangles” by Robert DeCarli
There are 15 different projects to try in this book,
and Robert has included a detailed section at the
end showing alternate layouts with completely
different finished results.
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"Remarkable Rectangles" by Robert DeCarli is
published by Martingale and is available through
your local craft book shop or online from:
www.ShopMartingale.com
(Photos courtesy of Martingale)
“Chinese Screen”
“Kathy’s Star”
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Recipe Corner – Baked Lemon Tart
Lemon filling
5 eggs, lightly beaten
¾ cup caster (fine white) sugar
300ml (1¼ cups) double thick cream
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon rind
½ cup lemon juice (this will be about 2 lemons)
Method
Ingredients
1¾ cups plain flour
½ cup almond meal (ground almonds)
1/3 cup icing sugar mixture
175g (6.2 oz) butter, chilled, chopped
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons chilled water
Whipped cream and strawberries, to serve
Step 1
Place flour, almond meal, icing sugar mixture and
butter in a food processor. Process until mixture
resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add egg yolks and
water. Process until dough comes together. Turn
out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until just
smooth. Shape into a disc. Wrap in plastic wrap.
Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
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Step 2
Preheat oven to 200°C/180°C fan-forced
(moderate oven). Grease a 4cm (1¾ inch)-deep,
23.5cm (9½ inch) (base) round, loose-based
fluted flan tin. Roll out pastry between 2 sheets
of baking paper until 3mm (1/8 inch) -thick. Line
tin with pastry. Trim excess. Refrigerate for 15
minutes.
for 15 minutes. Refrigerate overnight or until
chilled. Serve with whipped cream and
strawberries.
Step 3
Place prepared tin on a baking tray. Line pastry
case with baking paper. Fill with ceramic pie
weights or uncooked rice. Bake for 10 minutes.
Remove weights or rice and baking paper. Bake
for 10 minutes or until light golden. Cool pastry
case. Reduce oven temperature to 180°C/160°C
fan-forced.
Step 4
Make lemon filling Whisk eggs, sugar, cream,
lemon rind and lemon juice in a bowl. Stand 5
minutes. Pour mixture into pastry case. Bake for
30 to 35 minutes or until filling has just set. Cool
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Reader “Show and Tell”
This month we continue our regular segment of
“Show and Tell” quilts made by our Online Quilt
Magazine Readers. It’s been another busy month
too!
We will include them as long as you can send
them to us, and that way we can all share in the
wealth of creativity and inspiration abundant
within our quilting community.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“Here is the quilt that I am making for Rod's
daughter Western Australia. ONLY have to do
112 or so Piano Keys for the second border. She
picked the colours as it will go on her white
leather couch, where she has orange and zebra
print cushions, plus a cow hide black & white rug
on the floor.”
- Elizabeth P., Australia
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“I got a few quilts finished. The first picture is a
bag, done with a technique of “folding”. The
second picture is a quilt cutting with my sizzix
machine: owl and butterflies. The last quilt is the
“drunkard path” technique and also cut with my
Sizzix machine. I love the machine, it is always the
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same cut, and very fast indeed.” – Jacqueline B.,
Belgium
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“My interpretation of your wall hangings”
- Jennie H., Australia
(“Grandma’s Dresser” and “Bookcase and Family
Tree Quilt” – both from www.Quilts-n-Bags.com
or www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com )
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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“The Grandmother's Flower Garden has always
been a favorite pattern. I finished the quilt this
spring. Each of the Flowers has 3 different fabrics
and there are 35 flowers. The blue is "cloud"
fabric. As I was making the quilt thoughts were
running through my mind on making it special.
That is where the fence came in with the arch. So
"Welcome to my Garden" is the title of the quilt.”
-Kathleen S, Northeast Kansas, USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“I have to admit that my true love in quilting is
applique. I would enjoy pictures and articles on
needle- turn applique. I am attaching a couple
photos for show and tell. The pink and white quilt
is a Baltimore album, queen bed size and the very
first quilt I made. It won 2nd place in a local quilt
show. I have done a couple pieced quilts too that I
am proud of. I do all my quilts completely by
hand --it turns out my sewing machine does not
like me and to be honest, I am not overly fond of
it either :)”
-Marianne, Wisconsin, USA
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“Thought I'd send you this photo of "Falling"
which I finally finished yesterday! Enjoyed
working on this quilt. As you can see it is slightly
different from yours - some of the squares
actually have leaves on them so thought this was
appropriate.”
- Dianne W., Kangaroo Island, Australia
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Keep them coming! Please send in
your “Show and Tell” Quilts to me at:
“…a bag I made last week. It is so cute!”
- Karen B., South Africa
(pattern from www.BagmakingPatterns.com )
[email protected]
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Block of the Month
This block has a strange name, but is a really
striking pieced design. It is a little fiddly to piece
together and has a great effect when completed.
To make this 12 inch block as shown, you will
need 3 different fabrics, and once you have
rotary cut the pieces according to the Cutting
Diagram, you can piece them together as shown.
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For more great quilts and blocks, visit www.QuiltBlockOfTheMonthClub.com
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Today’s Tips:
This week's tips are courtesy of the APQS blog,
(http://apqs.com/blog/ ) and we thought they
were great:
 Before starting a new project, clean your
ironing board and cutting mat with a selfadhesive lint remover. This picks up any hard-towipe-off fuzz from previous quilts or garments
that may transfer to your new project (and as
Murphy's Law states, "It will always be a bright
red thread that you accidentally quilt into a white
quilt.") Why give Murphy the satisfaction?
 Here's another clever "thread grabber". We are
all familiar with the idea of wrapping a piece of
tape around our hand with the sticky side out.
This gives you a homemade version of the lint
roller. But here's an idea that takes the concept
up a notch. Cut an 8-inch strip of Velcro from the
"hook" portion of the Velcro. Sew the ends
together to form a circle. Make sure the "hook"
portion faces out from your hand, and then slip
the circle around your palm. Rub your hand
across any surface with loose threads to grab
them. Simply "clean" the grabber between uses.
 To keep your thread cones neat and tidy (and
to prevent snarly messes) put a mark on the slit in
the spool with a felt-tip pen. It only takes a
minute but can prevent hours of frustration!
 To keep your thimble from coming off your
finger as you sew, blow into it just before you
place it on your finger. The hot moisture in your
breath helps provide just enough "grabbing"
power to create suction. Who knew?
Keep the tips coming! We all love
reading hints that work for you.
Please send them all to
[email protected]
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YES, We Want to Hear From
You!
As our Online Magazine continues to grow each
month, we need your feedback in order for us to
continue to improve our publication for you.

We want to know how you liked it.

We want to know the topics you're
interested in.

We want to know if you have any
suggestions, Hints or Tips of your own that
you'd like included, or if you know anyone
we should include a story on!
[email protected]
* Buttons and patches and the cold wind
blowing...the days pass quickly when I
am sewing! (This month - yes!)
*Count your blessings, stitch them one
by one.
*Don't Needle the Seamstress!
Please send me an email with your Testimonial,
Tip, Suggestion, “Show and Tell” Quilt or
Enhancement – I'd love to hear from you!
Send all emails to:
"Quilt-y" Quotes…
To subscribe to our Monthly Online Quilt
Magazine, please go to
www.OnlineQuiltMagazine.com and
register so you don’t miss another issue!
If you'd like to submit an Article, or a Project for
Publication, or take advantage of our Very Very
Reasonable Advertising Rates, please email details
or queries to Jody at
[email protected]
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