Kitchen Sinks 4 Faucets 8 Countertops 12 Cabinets

remodeling guide
Kitchen
Remodeling
Guide
Kitchen Sinks 4
Faucets
8
Countertops 12
Cabinets 18
Flooring 22
Sponsored in part by
G
ranite countertops or butcher block?
Semi-custom cabinets or stock?
It may seem there are a million decisions
when you’re planning a kitchen
renovation, all of which require careful
consideration of your style, your lifestyle,
and your pocketbook. So be sure to check
out these buyer’s guides before you spend
a cent on your remodel; they compare the
pros, cons, and cost of dozens of flooring,
countertop, and sink materials, as well as
the major styles of cabinets and faucets.
Armed with this info, you’ll feel a lot
more confident making those million
decisions.
3
remodeling guide
Sponsored in part by
Kitchen Sinks
B
y experimenting with new shapes, materials, and features, designers are
elevating the kitchen sink’s status from overlooked to center stage. Accessories such as cutting boards, colanders, and knife racks are helping to make
sinks more useful as a broader palette of materials is jazzing them up. Although
stainless steel is still the choice of as many as 75% of all buyers, offerings go far
beyond traditional one- or two-bowl sinks to encompass large workstations that
resemble those found in commercial kitchens. Beyond stainless, there’s a wide array of choices, including enamel, solid surface, fireclay, soapstone, copper, bronze,
stone composites, and concrete. Here’s the lowdown on what to expect from each.
Scott Gibson contributed to this article. Photos are courtesy of the
manufacturers.
Although sinks come in as many sizes
as they do colors and materials, the
de-facto American benchmark is a 33-in.
by 22-in. two-bowl design. It fits right
into a standard 36-in. sink cabinet.
That’s not the biggest sink you can buy,
says kitchen designer Jim Krengel, but
it should be adequate for most kitchens.
Some sinks come with equally sized
bowls, but he suggests two different sizes:
one 10-in.-deep bowl big enough to
handle a broiler pan or a cookie sheet;
and one smaller, shallower bowl used for
washing vegetables and equipped with a
waste disposer. “Although manufacturers
have created three-bowl sinks,” Krengel
says, “most people find no reason to
have that third bowl. It’s more sink than
you’re really going to need.”
?
How big
should
the sink
be
The key is getting a big pan into the
bottom of the larger bowl to avoid having to wash one end of it and turn it
around to wash the other. Measure the
largest pan you’re likely to wash in the
sink, then choose a bowl that can handle
it. Remember that thick outside walls
afford less interior room than thinner ones.
A stainless-steel sink has more usable
room than a cast-iron sink, for example.
Smaller one-basin sinks (25 in. by 22 in.)
might work better in a small kitchen, but
the design is less flexible. A 10-in. bowl
suitable for scrubbing pots and pans can
be difficult to peel and wash vegetables in.
4 Prices for basic stainless steel start
around $50 for a single-bowl sink. Better steel and accessories are $500 to
$3000. High-end workstations seldom
sell for less than $5000.
sources
➧
American Standard
www.americanstandard-us.com
Elkay
www.elkayusa.com
Franke
www.frankeksd.com
Julien
www.julien.ca
Kohler
www.kohler.com
Limited styles
and bowl
designs; very
high cost; copper needs occasional polishing.
Cost
Copper-sink prices can be as low
as $500. Bronze is more expensive, from $1500 and up.
sources
Oregon Copper Bowl Co.
www.oregoncopperbowl.com
Rocky Mountain Hardware
www.rockymountain
hardware.com
Stone Forest
www.stoneforest.com
Sun Valley Bronze
www.svbronze.com
Whitehaus Collection
www.whitehauscollection.com
Can be relatively
expensive and
might not be
aesthetically
suitable with all
countertop
materials.
A solid-surface sink costs anywhere
from $200 to $800 installed.
sources
Avonite
www.avonitesurfaces.com
Corian
www.corian.com
Formica
www.formica.com
Swanstone
www.theswancorp.com
Wilsonart International
www.wilsonart.com
The surface of an acrylic sink is
nonporous, resists staining and
cracking, and has good noisedampening and heat-retention
properties. Acrylic is not as
hard as some other sink materials, so the use of nonabrasive
cleaners is recommended. Surface scratches can be removed
with sandpaper, and the gloss
restored with car-polishing
compound. However, acrylic
is susceptible to damage from
petroleum-based products and
high heat.
Karran USA says that its
manufacturing process produces a harder acrylic surface
unaffected by abrasive cleaners
and scouring pads. These sinks
are guaranteed for life against
stains and for 50 years against
manufacturing defects.
Pros
Low cost; nonporous surface
with good
sound-dampening and
thermal properties; dinged
surfaces can
be renewed.
Cons
➧
Cost
Cons
➧
Gluing one of these sinks to the
bottom of a solid-surface countertop eliminates the seams
where grime can collect. Bowls
of different sizes can be combined in the same countertop,
allowing great design flexibility.
Solid-surface sinks are stain resistant, and hard scrubbing won’t
damage the surface. Because
the pattern or color goes all
the way through, surface nicks
won’t expose a different substrate. Minor blemishes can be
sanded out, and major dings
can be repaired by a pro.
Bronze and copper sinks have
a more rustic, less polished
look than stainless steel. Sandcasting gives bronze a roughtextured appearance, and it is
resistant to wear or damage.
Bronze won’t rust, although it
can develop a darker surface
patina with exposure to light
and air. Some bronze sinks
weigh about 200 lb., and when
installed, they need support
from below.
Copper, meanwhile, oxidizes
quickly to a brownish patina.
Although it doesn’t rust, copper
needs some elbow grease to
keep looking its best.
Cons
ac r y l i c
Pros
Durable, nonporous,
and repairable; colors and patterns go
all the way through;
good sound-deadening qualities; can
be glued into solidsurface counters for
seamless connection.
Highly durable
nonferrous
metals are
aesthetically
pleasing with
great tactile
appeal; surface
won’t chip or
rust.
➧
Cost
Economy sinks
have shallow
bowls with thin
walls, which are
noisy and flexible;
polished finishes
can be troublesome to maintain;
commercial-grade
sinks are relatively
expensive.
Pros
➧
s o l i d s u r fac e
Durable, nonstaining, and heatresistant surface;
wide variety of
shapes and sizes;
compatible with a
range of countertop materials.
Cons
➧
Stainless steel neither absorbs
food and bacteria nor rusts;
and it is durable, impervious
to heat, and relatively easy to
clean. Available in both polished and brushed finishes,
stainless steel’s thickness varies
according to price. (When looking at steel thickness, remember: the higher the gauge, the
thinner the steel.) Economy
sinks are made of thin steel
(typically 20 to 22 gauge) that
is more likely to flex under
pressure or dent. The bowls can
be as shallow as 6 in., while in
moderately priced sinks made
of thicker-gauge steel, 10-in.
bowl depths are common.
Commercial-style sinks made
of even heavier steel are dent
resistant and are quieter than
low-end models.
Pros
➧
c o pp e r a n d b r o n z e
➧
s ta i n l e s s s t e e l
Relatively soft
and can be
damaged by
high heat, abrasive cleaners,
and petroleumbased products.
Cost
Expect to pay between $100 and
$300 for an acrylic sink.
sources
CorStone
www.corstonesinks.com
Karran USA
www.karranproducts.com
5
Enameled
S u r fac e s
Installation options:
An enameled cast-iron sink is probably what Grandma had in her kitchen.
When maintained correctly (no abrasive cleaners), the finish can last for a
long time. However, the hard surface
is unforgiving for delicate dishware.
These sinks are heavy, but the weight
helps to keep them quiet under running water. Although the enamel coating the iron is tough, it can chip and
allow the metal to rust. An alternative is enamel over a steel substrate
(what appliances are made of). This
type of sink is two or three times
lighter and is also less expensive;
however, it has the reputation of
being noisier and more likely to chip.
Another choice is American Standard’s enameled-steel Americast sink.
Coated on the back with a proprietary
material that enhances heat retention
and deadens sound, this sink is about
half the weight of cast iron.
Drop-in or
­undermount?
Good:
Self-rimming
Self-rimming sinks are relatively easy to install.
They drop right into a hole that has been cut
in the countertop. However, the lip around the
edge is a great collector of kitchen debris, so
this type of sink is harder to keep clean than
flush-mounts or ­undermounts.
Better:
flush mount
Flush-mount sinks often are called tile-edge sinks
because the top edge of the sink is designed to
be flush with a tile countertop. Flush-mounts are
➧
installed in much the same way as self-rimming
sinks are.
Pros
Cons
➧
Long-wearing
surface resists
stains; good
sound-deadening
and thermal
properties; variety of styles; twobowl designs are
low in cost.
Improper cleaning
can chip enamel
and dull the surface; weight complicates undermount installation.
Cost
Prices start around $100. Americast
sinks range from $200 to $550. True
cast-iron sinks are $200 to $500, but
some cost upward of $1500.
sources
American Standard
www.americanstandard-us.com
Bootz
www.bootz.com
Eljer
www.eljer.com
6 Best:
undermount
Undermount sinks are tucked completely beneath the counter, so crumbs and other kitchen
debris can be swept easily into the sink. Installation, however, is much more exacting. Heavy
undermounts, such as those made from stone or
cast iron, should be supported from below.
Solid-surface undermount sinks are unique
because they are glued to the countertop; seams
are virtually invisible. There is no chance of a
leak and no place for kitchen debris to collect.
A skilled installer can make custom undermount
sinks. The downside is higher cost and greater
installation difficulty. This job is for a pro.
Drawings: Brian Jensen
➧
Pros
➧
High durability;
aesthetics; good Cons
sound-deadening properties. High cost; not
the right look
for all kitchen
designs; weight
can complicate
installation.
Cost
• Soapstone: $500 to $1200; more
with hand-carved decoration.
• Granite: $1000 to $2000.
sources
Green Mountain Soapstone
www.greenmountainsoapstone
.com
Kallista
www.kallista.com
Sheldon Slate
www.sheldonslate.com
Stone Forest
www.stoneforest.com
Vermont Soapstone
www.vermontsoapstone.com
Fireclay, also known
as vitreous china,
is another hightemperature ceramic
material that, like
enamel, has a tough
surface that resists
wear. Unlike cast-iron
or steel sinks coated
with enamel, fireclay
sinks are made of the
same material all the
way through, so if the surface is chipped, there’s no
chance of rust developing in
a metal substrate.
Fireclay sinks are unique
because they can be decorated before firing. The pattern or scene then becomes
a permanent part of the surface. Fireclay sinks also have
the potential for sharper and
more elaborate detailing
than cast iron.
The cost for these sinks can
be high, with painted, decorated, or highly detailed sinks
reaching well over $1000.
While durable, concrete
is an unforgiving surface
for glassware and must be
sealed carefully so that it
won’t leak. Concrete is also
susceptible to staining,
especially from wine and
acidic foods. Sonoma has
developed a stain-free concrete called NuCrete that
doesn’t require resealing.
Sonoma also can cast a
stainless-steel screen into
the bottom of its sinks that
won’t stain and that offers
protection for dishware.
Concrete is well suited
to customization. It’s also
expensive: Sonoma’s sinks
(24 in. to 32 in.) run from
about $2000 to $4000. Concreteworks’ custom sinks cost
from $800 to $2200.
➧
Sinks made from a combination
of granite or quartz particles
and acrylic have a handsome,
durable surface that resists
staining and scratching. The
surface has high heat resistance, too; most models can
handle pans as hot as 535°F,
so you don’t have to worry
about burning or marring the
surface. Composite sinks are
available in both top-mount
and undermount styles, but
colors are somewhat limited.
Prices range from as low as
$350 for a single-bowl sink to
as high as almost $800 for a
double-bowl sink.
Pros
Cons
Highly durable,
heat-resistant Moderately
material that expensive; must
won’t stain or chip. be rinsed and
dried after use
to avoid mineraldeposit buildup.
Cost
For a composite sink, $400 is a
bargain price, but top-of-the-line
models cost $700 or more.
sources
FHP Kindred
www.fhpkindred.com
Franke
www.frankeksd.com
Very hard finish with high
Cons
durability; good
sound-deadening Can chip;
qualities; can be high cost.
painted before
firing.
Cost
Most cost between $600 and
$800, but can be as low as $300
or as high as $1700. Detailing and
decorating raise the cost.
sources
Franke
www.frankeksd.com
Whitehaus Collection
www.whitehauscollection.com
Pros
Durable; easily
customized;
good sounddeadening
properties; can
be cast as part
of a finished
countertop.
Cons
➧
concrete
➧
Composites
Pros
➧
Dense and nonstaining,
soapstone has a slippery
feel because of its high
talc content, and it can
be sealed with nothing
more complicated than
mineral oil. In time, the
stone ages to a rich
patina that needs little
care. Soapstone’s mass
offers good sounddeadening qualities.
Soapstone is not brittle, so the sinks are not susceptible
to cracking. But the material is heavy and must be supported from below. These sinks look best when paired
with soapstone counters or other less formal material.
➧
F i r e c l ay
➧
N at u r a l
stone
Expensive and
heavy; might stain;
must be resealed
periodically.
Cost
A concrete sink is at least $800;
customized sinks can cost $4000.
sources
Concreteworks Studio
www.concreteworks.com
Sonoma Cast Stone
www.sonomastone.com
Sponsored in part by
7
Sponsored in part by
remodeling guide
Kitchen Faucets
L
ike every other
­component in a
­contemporary kitchen,
faucets have evolved.
They now have more
shapes, styles, finishes,
and functions than ever.
Before you settle up on
a choice, familiarize
yourself with the types
of faucets on the market
and the features, both
seen and unseen, that set a
quality fixture apart.
Nena Donovan Levine, a
kitchen designer in West
Hartford, Conn., contributed to this article.
Photos courtesy of the
manufacturers, except
where noted.
Kohler
• Model: Forté
• Price: $174–$278
• Finishes: Polished
chrome, brushed
nickel, stainless steel,
brushed bronze,
brushed chrome
Single-handle: A standard
with increasing style
Single-handle: A standard with increasing style
Style-wise, these are basic, no-frills faucets with a single-lever control; an optional side
spray is available on most models. The faucet itself requires only one installation hole. The
spouts might or might not swivel. Now available in just about any style and finish, singlehandle faucets have the ability to control water temperature and volume simultaneously
with one hand, an ergonomic benefit and a strong selling point. Single-control faucets comprise at least 80% of all kitchen faucets sold every year.
Must-have faucet features
• Ceramic-disk technology Beneath their
metallic skins, the best kitchen faucets contain a plastic cartridge housing a pair of
ceramic disks. Turning the faucet’s handle
slides the disks over one another. When holes
in the disks align, water flows. The disks’
diamond-hard surface is so highly
polished that they stick to each
other as if magnetized. The higher
the polish, the smoother
they glide, and the smoother
the faucet handle operates.
Smooth operation increases
minute control over volume
and temperature.
• Solid-brass or stainless-steel body
Both can stand up to high pressure, high temperatures, and potentially corrosive minerals
8
in the water. Cast-brass faucets are thicker
and longer-lasting than those made of tubular
brass. Because it tarnishes, brass usually is
plated with another material, typically chrome
(see “PVD finish” below). Stainless steel needs
no additional finish. However, it is more difficult to work than brass, so stainless steel is a
lot more expensive.
• PVD finish Developed by NASA and
designed to protect metal, physical vapor
deposition (or PVD) is a process used to apply
metallic finishes over chromed brass. PVD
prevents corrosion, tarnish, and scratches on
brushed bronze, polished gold, and many other
popular faucet finishes.
• Stainless-steel sheath over the spray
hose The best hoses are either nylon or plastic, protected by an outer sheath of woven
stainless steel. The sheath is stable and less
likely to kink than unsheathed plastic. Some
manufacturers take this a step farther, coating the stainless sheath with plastic to make
it quieter.
• Lifetime limited warranty At a minimum,
choose a faucet with a warranty against leaks.
It’ll likely cover only parts like the ceramic
disks, but replacement is usually manageable.
Better yet, choose a high-quality faucet, and
the PVD finish will be covered as well.
Photo bottom left: Scott Phillips.
The classic two-handle: A tradition endures
Before single-lever control
faucets arrived more than 50
years ago, two-handle faucets
were the only option. Once
single-lever faucets became the
standard, two-handle models
were chosen to enhance the
style of traditional kitchens.
Today, two-handle faucets are
still available with a traditional
look, but they also can be
found in styles that fit a more
modern home. Some models
with a baseplate appear as one
piece; other models without
bases look like more traditional
components. Both are available
with accessory side sprays.
If you choose a two-handle
faucet, look for quarter-turn
ceramic-disk technology. It
regulates water from off to
full-on with just a quarter-turn
of the handle.
Delta
• Model: Victorian
• Price: $350
• Finishes: Chrome,
bronze, stainless steel
Pull-out or pull-down:
A feature of ­convenience
With a hose and a spray
head that emerge from the
Brizo
• Model: Belo
• Price: $600
• Finishes: Chrome,
stainless steel
spout, these faucets increase
convenience with reach and
precision. Most models also
include a button, lever, or
toggle that changes the water
stream to a stronger spray for
scrubbing pots, pans, or the
sink itself. Single-hole installation lends an uncluttered look
to the cleanup area.
Most pull-out spray heads are
made of plastic and are finished
to match the rest of the faucet.
This choice is deliberate, not
a cheap ruse. A plastic spray
head is not necessarily a poorquality component. American
Standard, for example, chooses
plastic because it doesn’t heat
up and, if dropped, won’t damage the sink.
Getting
the lead
out
Lead makes
machining and
forging the
brass used in
faucets and
other plumbing
products easier,
but it’s also a
neurotoxin that
disrupts brain
function and
development,
especially in
young children.
Although the
amount of lead
Lead-free.
in faucets has
The brass
body of Del- been limited
ta’s Diamond since the 1980s,
Seal products
are lined with the passage of
new low-lead
PEX tubing,
eliminating
limits in Calilead confornia and Vercerns.
mont in January
has forced faucet manufacturers to take new steps to curb
lead use in manufacturing.
Under the new laws, brass
used in faucets sold in those
states cannot contain more
than 0.25% lead. By the time
the laws went into effect in
January, virtually all major
faucet manufacturers were
touting compliance. Delta has
introduced its Diamond Seal
line, which uses PEX tubing to
eliminate brass-to-water contact. American Standard modified its brass-alloy formula,
substituting bismuth for lead.
Other companies, including
Kohler and Danze, announced
that all their faucets are
compliant. Still, manufacturers point out that most lead
in our drinking water comes
from old pipes, not faucets.
— Patrick McCombe,
Debra Silber
9
Checklist for a
perfect faucet fit
1. For an undermount sink,
position the faucet holes so that they
clear the hidden sink-rim edge.
2. For a top-mounted sink,
match the faucet and the accessories
to the number of holes drilled in
the sink rim. Check the hole spacing
carefully if you want a two-handle
faucet. If you need to cover extra
holes, choose a faucet that offers
a baseplate.
3. Consider clearances behind
the sink. Do the faucet controls
need room at the back for the arc
of the control lever or for lever
handles? Does the spout location
pose any problem? You can offset
a single-control faucet to the righthand corner of the sink to eliminate
interference with window hardware.
4. Extrathick counters, such
as those made of stone, wood, or
concrete, can present a problem
for deck-mounted faucets if the
mounting system doesn’t have
enough reach. Make sure that the
shank length accommodates the
counter thickness.
5. Make sure you’ve got reach.
Does the faucet spout swivel
in an arc wide enough to reach
all the sink bowls? Two-handle
faucets, including bridge-style
faucets, might not work with some
double-bowl sinks.
Watch for
tight clearance
behind the sink
for handles
and swiveling
spouts.
Cabinet
box
10
Holes
for a
twohandle
faucet
30-in. by 19-in.
single-bowl sink
Offset
hole for
a singlehandle
faucet
Moen
• Model: Banbury
• Price: $207–$277
• Finishes: Chrome,
stainless steel
Goosenecks: Plenty of room for pots and pans
Also called high-arc faucets, these deck-mounted models feature a tall, arcing spout
that provides generous clearance underneath, which simplifies cleaning pots and filling
vases. Gooseneck spouts usually swivel, and many newer models feature pull-down
spray handles; those that don’t are available with pull-out side sprays. Goosenecks are
available in single-lever, two-handle, and even hands-free models and are often paired
with smaller bar and prep sinks that benefit from the clearance.
Like a bridge over
running water
A horizontal connector
Line of
undermountsink rim
(bridge) joins incoming hot- and
cold-water supplies above the
countertop to become a prominent design feature. By definition, bridge faucets are twohandle models. However, with
a variety of finishes available
and spouts that range from
nearly straight to high, arcing
goosenecks, style and function
vary from one bridge faucet to
the next.
Moen
• Model: Waterhill
• Price: $800–$1080
• Finishes: Chrome, oilrubbed bronze, stainless
steel, wrought iron
Drawing: Dan Thornton
Pro-style:
Professional power
at a professional price
These overscale pull-down
faucets bring a restaurant look
sources
home (complementing today’s
popular commercial-style appliances). They boast a long hose
or an elongated gooseneck
(up to 30 in. tall) and a spray
head that offers control of
spray strength. Professionalstyle faucets offer a lot of
cleaning power, but they’re
expensive and have a tendency
to overspray the sink. For this
reason, it’s smart to pair a
pro-style faucet with a deep,
oversize sink.
American Standard
www.americanstandard-us.com
Aquadis International
www.aquadis.com
Blanco America
www.blancoamerica.com
Bristol and Bath
www.bristolbath.com
Kohler
• Model: ProMaster
• Price: $1432 and up
• Finish: Polished chrome
Brizo
www.brizo.com
Danze
www.danze-online.com
Delta Faucet
www.deltafaucet.com
Wall-mounted:
Keeping the deck clear
Unlike typical deck-mounted
faucets, wall-mounted faucets and
Kohler
• Model: Torq wallmount bridge
• Price: $727–$1050
• Finishes: Polished
chrome and nickel,
brushed bronze,
stainless steel,
matte black
their controls protrude from the
wall above the sink. This sensible
location makes for a sleek look and
a countertop that’s easier to clean.
The reason for their rarity is that
the wall behind a sink is commonly
an exterior wall with a window.
Elkay Manufacturing
www.elkayusa.com
Franke Consumer Products
www.frankeksd.com
Grohe America
www.groheamerica.com
Hamat USA
www.hamatusa.com
Hansgrohe
www.hansgrohe-usa.com
Hornbeam Ivy
www.hornbeamivy.com
A pot filler right where
you need it
Kohler
www.kohler.com
Pot fillers typically are wall-mounted
behind the range so that pots can be
filled in place on the cooktop. With a
single lever and a long, double-jointed
arm, pot fillers can be extended to
reach all the way to the front burner
and then be tucked away against the
wall. Less common, deck-mounted
models are great for kitchen islands
and can be installed as a retrofit in
existing kitchens. It might take some
searching to find exactly what you
want, but pot fillers run the gamut of
finishes and styles, too.
Dornbracht
www.dornbracht.com
KWC Faucets
www.kwcamerica.com
Moen
www.moen.com
Rohl
www.rohlhome.com
T&S Brass and Bronze Works
www.tsbrass.com
Whitehaus Collection
www.whitehauscollection.com
Kohler
• Model: HiRise deck-mount kitchen pot filler
• Price: $1063 • Finishes: Brushed stainless steel
Sponsored in part by
11
remodeling
guide
Sponsored in part by
Countertops
W
ith the possible exception of cabinetry, no single material choice
will have as great an impact on the look and functionality of your
kitchen as your countertop. And with so many options available today, it
pays to do your homework. To help you make comparisons in terms of
durability, price, and other considerations, here are the basics on the most
common countertop materials, as well as several new “green” options.
Fine Homebuilding contributing writer Scott Gibson and associate
editor Rob Yagid contributed to this article.
Butcher block
Built-in cutting boards
Butcher block is one of the few
totally natural countertop materials.
Made from strips of hard maple,
11⁄2-in.-thick butcher-block counters
are glued up to expose wearresistant edge grain. Sizes up to
12 ft. long and 4 ft. wide cost about
$30 to $35 per sq. ft. Butcher block can
be ordered through lumberyards, home
centers, and a few large manufacturers.
One of them, John Boos & Company, also
makes end-grain tops, 4 in. thick, in sizes
up to 60 in. by 38 in. for about $100 per
sq. ft. Butcher block is easy to install, has
a pleasing resilience, and can be used as a
cutting board. Scratches and scorch marks
can be counted as character, or scraped
and sanded away. One drawback is that
wood is susceptible to water damage, so butcher block around a
End-grain
sink should be sealed carefully.
butcher
P l a s t i c l a m i n at e
The old standby still rules
Pros: Resilient, easy
to work, relatively
durable, can be used
as a cutting board, surface can be repaired.
Cons: Will scorch,
not as easy to keep
clean as some other
materials, can stain if
unsealed, susceptible
to moisture damage
around sinks.
Cost: $30 to $100
per sq. ft., uninstalled.
block
Edge-grain
butcher block
Chop where you like.
Edge-grain maple butcher
block (above right) exudes a
visual warmth that many other
materials lack. Standard thickness
is 11⁄2 in., although 4-in.-thick endgrain block is available (left).
12 Sources
High-pressure laminate is the choice in
three-quarters of all new kitchens. In sheet
form, laminate is glued to a particleboard
substrate on site or in the shop; a thinner
version, known as a post-formed counter,
is manufactured as a ready-made countertop with a rounded front edge and integral
backsplash. Available in fewer colors, they're
for straight runs only (no curves). Laminate
is highly stain resistant, but heat and sharp
knives can damage it. Also, water that gets
into seams can degrade the substrate.
Pros: Inexpensive,
relatively durable, easy to
clean, needs no regular
maintenance, wide range
of colors and patterns
available.
Sources
Formica
www.formica.com
Nevamar
www.nevamar.com
Wilsonart
www.wilsonart.com
The HarDwood
Lumber Co.
Cons: Damaged by
John Boos & Co.
Cost: Uninstalled, $5 per sq. ft. for post-formed
www.hardwood
-lumber.com
www.johnboos.com
sharp objects and heat,
not repairable.
counters; $2 per sq. ft. for laminate sheet. Installed,
$8 to $11 for post-formed; $10 to $17 for laminate
sheet.
Photos, except where noted: Scott Phillips. This page: courtesy of Formica (top right); Brian Pontolilo (center). Facing page: Dan
Thornton (center left, right); Michael Pekovich (bottom right).
stone and composite
Durable, heat resistant, and popular
Pros: Wide variety of colors
and textures, heat resistant,
very durable (stain and scratch
resistances vary).
Granite
Cons: High cost, some types
can stain, slab size can be limited.
Slate can delaminate.
Cost: $50 to $100+ per sq. ft.,
fabricated and installed.
Sources
Quartz
composite
Cambria
www.cambriausa.com
D u Pont Zodiaq
www.zodiaq.com
Freshwater Stone
Slate
www.freshwaterstone.com
Silestone
www.silestoneusa.com
Vermont Soapstone Co.
Slab stone, especially granite, is cold to the touch, heavy, hard
to work, and expensive. It’s also popular. Granite comes from
all over the world, in a variety of colors and patterns. Prices
show big regional differences, starting at $40 to $50 per sq. ft.
(possibly lower in some areas) and commonly running to $80
to $100 per sq. ft. installed.
Sold in two thicknesses (3⁄4 in. and 11⁄4 in.), granite is resistant
to heat and scratches. Most countertop material is polished, but
it also is available in a honed (matte) finish, usually for a bit more
money. Slab size usually is limited to 10 ft. long and 5 ft. wide.
Although resistant to acidic foods such as lemon juice, granite
will stain. It’s especially susceptible to oil. Penetrating sealers,
commonly called impregnators, can keep out oil and water.
Other stone-countertop options include slate and soapstone.
Both come in smaller slab sizes than granite (roughly 6 ft. long
and between 30 in. and 40 in. wide) and in not nearly the variety
of colors. Prices for these two stone countertops are similar, from
$70 to $100 per sq. ft., not including installation or shipping.
Blue-gray and lightly variegated when newly installed,
soapstone oxidizes and darkens with time to a rich charcoal. It is extremely dense, with better stain resistance than granite. However, soapstone also
is soft. It usually is treated with mineral
oil; scratches can be sanded out.
Slate runs in a wider but still limited
color palette: blacks, greens, reds,
grays, and muted purples. Like soapstone, slate is relatively soft, although
scratch marks can be buffed out with fine
steel wool, says Daphne Markcrow of Vermont
Structural Slate Company. Vermont slate needs
no sealers, she says, and no maintenance,
although slate mined in different regions might
Soapstone
be more absorbent. Slate is formed in layers, so
it might occasionally delaminate.
Quartz composite is another option. A mix of quartz, resin
binders, and pigments, the countertop material (sold under
the Cambria, Silestone, and Zodiaq brands) is nonporous and
stain resistant. Unlike granite, it doesn’t need to be sealed.
www.vermontsoapstone.com
Vermont Structural
Slate Co.
www.vermontstructuralslate.com
Pricey but in high demand. Natural stone
is the current favorite among high-end
countertop choices. It offers high heat
resistance and durability, and a wide variety of colors and textures.
13
S ta i n l e s s s t e e l
The pros like it for a reason
Pros: Nonporous
and nonstaining,
resistant to heat,
durable, easy to clean.
Sources
Cons: High cost,
Frigo Design
Brooks Custom
www.brookscustom
.com
can dent.
www.frigodesign.com
Cost: $80 to $100
Stainless Steel
Kitchens
per sq. ft. for uninstalled straight runs.
www.stainlesssteel
kitchen.com
Although long-lasting and easy to clean, stainless steel,
when new, is notorious for showing fingerprints—a
problem that fades as the surface gets more wear and
develops a patina.
Stainless-steel countertops usually are fabricated
from templates, often in 16-ga. material. Sheet metal
is glued to a substrate of medium-density fiberboard
(MDF); sinks can be welded in. The counters cost from
$80 to $100 per sq. ft., but edge details, sinks, and
overall complexity can change prices dramatically. Mark
Ponder, an estimator at Weiss Sheet Metal, outside
Boston, cautions that prices can be misleading. A plain
10-ft.-long counter with a simple sink and a 4-in. backsplash might cost $1650, he says, but that doesn’t
include the substrate, shipping, or installation. Linda Bergling of
Stainless Steel Kitchens, a large Midwestern fabricator, says her shop
charges about $195 per running foot of counter with backsplash. The
stainless is already laid up on a substrate, ready to go in.
Counters typically are made from 304 stainless with a #4 brushed finish.
Length usually is limited to 10 ft. and width to 4 ft., although larger
sheets can be ordered. Clean stainless-steel counters with a mild
detergent, or with baking soda or vinegar diluted in water. Some
foods—mustard, mayonnaise, lemon juice, ketchup—can cause a
white surface discoloration; rub it out with a fine Scotch-Brite pad.
Tile
Design flexibility and durability at a low cost
Because it is easy to cut, tile can be formed into counters
of almost any shape and size. Ceramic tile is available in a
huge variety of colors, patterns, textures, and prices, from
mass-produced 4-in.-sq. field tile to hand-painted gems.
Installed prices start at about $18 per sq. ft. for a basic
counter. Loose field tile starts at about $2.50 per sq. ft.
Glazed ceramic and porcelain tiles have a glasslike outer
layer that makes them long-wearing, heat resistant, and
nonabsorbent. The downside? Tile is really hard. Wineglasses and china won’t fare well in careless
households, and the tile surface
is unlikely to be perfectly flat.
You’ll need to use cutting boards
on the countertop.
The major shortcoming is the
grout between tiles. Left untreated,
cement-based grout stains easily, and
it can be hard to keep clean. A waterbased acrylic sealer offers some protection. The bottom line: A smaller
grout joint means less maintenance.
14 Pros: Versatile, inexpensive,
heat resistant, durable, high
stain resistance.
Cons: Grout can stain,
­surface not perfectly flat.
Cost: Materials, including
substrate, adhesive, and border tile, $7 and up per sq. ft.
Installation adds $8 to $10
per sq. ft.
Sources
Daltile
www.daltileproducts.com
National Tile
Contractors Association
www.tile-assn.com
Tile Council of North America
www.tileusa.com
Hard-wearing and heat
resistant. Ceramic tile,
available in hundreds
of colors and patterns,
offers great design flexibility at a relatively low
cost. Be careful, though:
Grout stains easily.
Photos, this page: Brian Pontolilo (top left); Roe A. Osborn (bottom right). Facing page: courtesy of Sonoma Cast
Stone (top left); courtesy of Formica (top right); Dan Thornton (center right); Krysta S. Doerfler (bottom left).
Concrete
High style, potentially high maintenance
From a design perspective, few countertop materials
are as malleable as concrete. Cast upside down in molds
or formed in place, concrete counters can be made
in virtually any shape and thickness. Made correctly,
they are hard, durable, and heat and scratch resistant.
But even the best of them will stain if not assiduously
maintained. Cast without proper reinforcement and the
correct mix of materials, concrete counters have been
known to develop severe cracks as they cure. Jeffrey
Girard of The Concrete Counter Institute says that to
minimize cracking,
standard countertops
11⁄ 2 in. to 2 in. thick
should be cast with
structural steel and
polypropylene fibers.
Fabricators exert
considerable control
over the look of the
finished product.
Girard, for instance,
adds pieces of glass
and metal to the
Not all concrete stains easily.
mix, then grinds the
Those who don’t fancy stains as pasurface to create
tina can choose Sonoma’s ­concrete
beautiful multicolored counter tiles made with the company’s proprietary stainless NuCrete.
patterns.
S o l i d s u r fa c e
A 40-year-old wunderkind in the kitchen
at least $65 per sq. ft. to more than double that
amount (shipping and installation extra).
DuPont’s Corian, the world’s first solid-surface material, now has many
rivals. But they are essentially the
same stuff: polyester or acrylic resin
plus a mineral filler. Solid surfacing comes in plain colors, patterns
that resemble stone, and translucent
versions. Countertops most often are
formed from 1⁄2-in.-thick sheets; edges are
built-up layers of identical or contrasting
material. Sheets 30 in. and 36 in. wide run
to 12 ft. in length.
Solid surfacing is nearly an ideal countertop. Minor surface blemishes can be sanded Formica solid
surface
out. The material is nonporous, making it
easy to keep clean, and it’s highly stain resistant. It also can be fashioned into a sink and then glued
to a countertop for a seamless, leakproof installation. Solid surfacing comes with a long guarantee, usually 10 years.
Sources
Pros: Nonporous
Buddy Rhodes Studio Inc.
Concrete Network
and nonstaining, easy
to clean, repairable,
durable, wide range
of colors and patterns available, integral sinks possible.
Sonoma Cast Stone
Cons: High cost,
Pros: Versatile, heat resistant, durable, colors and
textures easily customized.
Cons: Can stain.
Cost: Prices vary considerably, but expect to pay
www.buddyrhodes.com
Cheng Concrete
www.concreteexchange.com
www.concretenetwork.com
www.sonomastone.com
Make your own. Some
manufacturers sell everything
you need to make countertops,
including specialty blended concrete, sink molds, and colorants.
should be protected
from high heat and
sharp knives.
Cost: Typically
installed by a certified fabricator, $45
to $80 per sq. ft.
Sources
Avonite
www.avonitesurfaces.com
Corian
www.corian.com
Formica
www.formica.com
Pionite
www.pionite.com
Swanstone
www.swanstone.com
wilsonart
www.wilsonart.com
Sponsored in part by
15
Recycled glass
As eye-catching as it is eco-friendly
Although countertops made of cement and recycled glass have been around for
more than a decade, manufacturers have been scarce. But now more and more
companies are salvaging glass fragments of all kinds and mixing them with cement
or epoxy resin to make countertops. Recycled glass is a major component of
each mix—roughly 75% to 85% of the finished countertop. These countertops
are shaped and installed like natural stone, with a similar selection of edge profiles. Recycled-glass counters made with a cement binder are slightly different
than those made with epoxy resin. Cement can be stained by acids in wine, vinegar, and citrus juices, so these countertops need to be sealed, maintained,
and cleaned of spills with more diligence than resin
counters. Most cement-based counters come sealed
but require periodic retreatment with an impregnating
sealer. Trivets and cutting boards are required on resinbased countertops, which aren’t as hard as cement.
From the curb to the
kitchen. When bottles and
windows are broken, windshields fractured, and traffic lights decommissioned,
some of this glass is recycled, but a lot of it ends
up in landfills. More and
more of it, however, is being used to make unique,
durable countertops.
Pros: Visually stunning,
wide variety of colors,
durable, recycled product.
Cons: Limited availability,
expensive.
Sources
EnviroGLAS
www.enviroglasproducts.com
IceStone
www.icestone.biz
Tiger Mountain Innovations
Cost: $40 to $90 per sq. ft.,
uninstalled.
www.trinityglassproducts.com
Vetrazzo
www.vetrazzo.com
Sc r a p m e ta l
From waste heap to industrial chic
Of the nearly 3 million tons of ­aluminum that are
discarded ­every year in the United States, a small
portion is being used to create countertops that can
set your ­kitchen apart.
Available through dealers and fabricators nationwide, Alkemi countertops are made by mixing
aluminum shavings with UV-stable polymeric resin.
The countertop material contains at least 60% postindustrial scrap aluminum, which conventional recyclers don’t use. Installed over a plywood substrate
with silicone caulk, these counters are maintained
like ordinary solid-surface types.
Pros: Uses recycled materials, durable, stain resistant.
Cons: Expensive, limited availability, few colors, low heat
tolerance.
Cost: $39 to $60 per sq. ft., uninstalled.
Sources
Alkemi www.renewedmaterials.com
16 Polished or honed, but always made with aluminum.
Alkemi uses only aluminum shavings in its countertops.
The variety of colored shavings, like bronze or copper, is
acquired by anodizing the shavings prior to mixing them
with resin. Alkemi tops are available with either a smooth,
honed surface (above) or a textured surface (left).
Photos this page: courtesy of Vetrazzo (top left); courtesy of Alkemi (bottom right); Krysta S. Doerfler (details). Facing page: courtesy
Totally Bamboo (center); courtesy Klip Biotechnologies (bottom right); Krysta S. Doerfler (details).
Bamboo
Pros: Renewable, easily
fabricated, can be used as
cutting board.
A renewable material with a look all its own
Cons: Needs maintenance,
It’s hard not to be impressed by bamboo. The material is actually a
moisture can damage.
type of grass, but it’s 16% harder than maple. Bamboo reaches harCost: $20 to $35 per sq. ft.,
vestable maturity in less than five years—as opposed to the 50- to
uninstalled.
70-year growing period of hardwoods—and continuously replenishes itself by sprouting new shoots from an extensive root system.
Sources
With its warm, natural appearance, and its ability to be easily cut
Bamboo Revolution
www.bamboorevolution.com
and shaped with common tools, it’s no wonder bamboo is being
Endurawood
made into kitchen countertops. Strips of bamboo are assembled
www.endurawood.com
into counters in end-grain, edge-grain, or flat-grain orientations.
Smith & Fong
Bamboo can withstand a significant amount of abuse, but should be
www.plyboo.com
treated like any wood counter. Trivets prevent burns from hot pots
Totally Bamboo
www.totallybamboo.com
and pans, and an application of penetrating sealer helps to prevent
staining. (Manufacturers recommend food-safe
tung oil.)
Like wood, bamboo countertops are only marginally stable. Dimensional changes occur with
seasonal fluctuations in temperature and humidity. One benefit of a bamboo countertop is that
the entire surface can be used as a cutting board.
Scratches or knife marks can be left or sanded
Not your ordinary butcher block. End-grain
away. A yearly application of tung oil will help to
bamboo countertops conjure up images of tradikeep the surface looking new.
tional maple butcher block. Often referred to as
parquet, end-grain bamboo is harder than maple,
making it a more durable cutting surface.
Pa p e r
Surprisingly strong, but not without its drawbacks
Pros: Unique,
durable, can be
eco-friendly.
Cons: Can
Paper might not seem like a suitable raw material for countertops, but when saturated with resin, heated, and compressed,
the result is surprisingly stonelike. These paper-based panels are
durable and have been used for years in industrial and marine
applications, as well as for skateboard parks. Several manufacturers make these counters, but different processes result in varying
performance traits. Panels made of post-consumer waste paper
are sought for their green attributes.
The type of resin used to bind paper together also
has an impact on the countertop. Phenolic
resin, though extremely strong, is caramel
in color and can darken over time, which
limits the range of color choices. Eco-Top
is one type that uses a clear VOC-free
water-based resin, allowing a wider
choice of colors. Although stainresistant, paper countertops need a protective finish, usually a combination of natural oils and waxes that can be reapplied
periodically to minimize scratches and
enrich the countertop’s appearance.
scratch, requires
maintenance,
fairly expensive.
Cost: $35 to
Tones and textures
can vary. Edge-grain
bamboo counters
(above) tend to be
slightly more monochromatic, while other
grain orientations
offer more visual
texture. The darker
color of bamboo is
achieved by heating
the material, which
caramelizes its
natural sugars.
Sources
EcoTop
www.kliptech.com
Paperstone
www.paperstoneproducts.com
Richlite
www.richlite.com
Shetkastone
www.shetkastone.com
$90 per sq. ft.,
uninstalled.
17
remodelers guide
Sponsored in part by
Kitchen Cabinets
1
Learning to spot quality is the key
cabinet types
to choosing cabinets that will
Stock, semicustom, or custom?
enhance your kitchen
built to order, also on a
Kitchen cabinets can
for years to come
3-in. grid, but offer more
roughly be divided into
three grades: stock, semicustom, and custom. Stock
cabinets are the least
expensive and have the
least number of styles and
finishes. They’re also built
in standard sizes, with
widths in 3-in. increments.
Semicustom cabinets are
style and finish choices;
materials are often of
higher quality. Custom
cabinets, the most expensive, are built to fit a
kitchen exactly, and come
with just about any option
and in any material you’re
willing to pay for.
Stock
Custom
Semicustom
2
Face frame or frameless?
A salesperson might call them
French provincial, Shaker, or
Arts and Crafts, but from a construction standpoint, manufactured cabinets are one of two
types: traditional face frame
or frameless (also sometimes
called European).
In a face-frame cabinet, a
rigid frame of 3⁄4-in. solid wood
is attached to the front of a
plywood or particleboard box.
Face frames create rectangular door and drawer openings
while adding strength to the
cabinet. Doors and drawers can
be inset so that they’re flush
with the frame or, more commonly, they can overlay it.
Frameless cabinets, where
doors and drawer fronts hide
the cabinet box, have a sleeker,
more contemporary look.
Frameless
18
18 Face frame
Photos this page: background, Charles Miller; insets,
Krysta S. Doerfler. Photos facing page: center, Rodney
Diaz; cabinet by Kraftmaid; insets, Krysta S. Doerfler.
3
the box
What to look for, what to avoid
The box, or carcase, is the foundation of any kitchen cabinet.
Hidden behind face frames and end panels, the box is often unseen,
but the functional life of your cabinets depends on its structural integrity.
Materials
Panel products such as plywood,
particleboard, and MDF make
a strong, stable cabinet. That
said, these engineered wood
products are not created
equal. Economy cabinets
usually are made of particleboard covered with a thin
layer of vinyl printed with a
wood-grain pattern. Particleboard is inexpensive, which
helps to keep down the cost of
the cabinets, but it doesn’t hold
screws as well as plywood and is
susceptible to water damage. If
the vinyl surface tears or becomes
delaminated, there’s no way to
repair it. Melamine is a type of
pressed wood-fiber panel with a plastic top layer that’s often used for cabinet boxes because it’s easy to keep
clean. It’s heartier than the vinyl-covered particleboard of economy cabinets,
but the surface can chip if it’s abused.
Plywood costs more, but it’s inherently
more robust. Screws that attach hinges,
drawer slides, and other hardware are less
likely to be pulled out over time, and the
surface can be repainted or refinished if it’s damaged. Plywood shelving
is more resistant to sagging than particleboard or MDF. Thin shelves sag
more than those made from ¾-in. material.
Sides and backs
Cabinet sides range in thickness from 3⁄ 8 in. to ¾ in.
Thin, particleboard walls
can make a cabinet feel
cheap, and they offer
less meat for shelf pins
and hardware screws
to grab. Plywood, up
to ¾ in., makes a solid,
long-lasting box that can
support heavy counters
without complaint. (It’s usually available as an upgrade if
not standard.) Cabinet backs
aren’t that important. Even
good-quality cabinets might
have backs made of 1⁄4-in. material. While the back is structurally
important to prevent the cabinet
from racking, a panel that’s ¼ in.
thick shouldn’t be a drawback unless the countertop is unusually heavy
or drawer hardware is to be mounted
directly to the back. Plywood is a better
choice than hardboard.
Well made
Construction
Face frames are usually made from the same hardwood as the drawer faces
and doors. Look for gap-free joints between the pieces that make up the
frame. When inside edges around door and drawer openings are sanded
smooth and joints are tight, you know the frame was made with care.
Don’t be afraid to poke your head inside the cabinet and look around. You
should see no gaps, errant blobs of glue, or surface defects. Make a fist and
lightly strike shelves and cabinet walls. Nothing should rattle or seem loose.
At cabinet corners, wood glue blocks are better than plastic brackets that
have been stapled in place. Joints should be snug. Misaligned parts, gaps at
joints between cabinet components, careless sanding and finishing, and thin
shelving are all signs of a poorly made cabinet.
Poor construction
Plywood components and
wood braces (seen in the
box above and inset at
left) are signs of a wellmade cabinet. This box
is 1⁄ 2-in. plywood with a
3 ⁄4-in. face frame.
Plastic blocks affixed with
staples are used to reinforce the corners of this
economy cabinet. The
sides are made of 1⁄ 2-in.
wood veneer particleboard; the back is 1⁄ 8-in.
vinyl-covered hardboard.
The corner blocks are
affixed with staples.
19
4
the drawers
Drawers are opened and closed thousands of times a year, and for that
reason, it pays to look for quality materials, construction, and hardware.
Materials
Hardwood drawer sides that are 5⁄ 8 in. or 3⁄4 in. thick are a good idea on all but the
lightest and smallest drawers. Material that’s only 1⁄ 2 in. thick, especially if it’s particleboard, is not as dependable. Drawer bottoms are often 1⁄4 in. thick, and again,
plywood is a better choice than particleboard or hardboard. On cabinet pullouts
that carry a lot of weight, a 3⁄ 8-in. or even a 1⁄ 2-in. plywood bottom is less likely to
sag over time.
Wood drawers are by far the most common, but metal-sided drawer boxes like
Blum’s Tandembox or those in Ikea’s ready-toassemble cabinets have a sleeker, more contemIntegral
porary look. They’re well adapted to frameless
slide
cabinets, and some come with integrated fullextension drawer slides and a soft-close feature.
Sidemount
slides
Construction
Well made
The interlocking pins and
tails of a dovetailed corner make a strong drawer
that will stand up well to
hard use. But make sure
the joint is free of gaps.
Well-made dovetail joints make the most
durable drawers. A poorly made dovetail, on
the other hand, is no better than a poorly
made anything else. There should be no gaps
in the interlocking parts, and the joint should
be sanded and finished carefully. Particleboard
drawers are typically glued and stapled at the
corners and don’t last. Avoid them if possible.
slides
The heavier the drawer, and the more use it gets, the beefier the drawer slide should be. This is especially
important on roll-outs that support a lot of weight: canned goods, for example, or a heavy kitchen mixer. The
basic epoxy-coated side-mounted slides that operate on small plastic wheels are fine for light duty. For anything
more, upgrade to ball-bearing slides that can handle more weight and operate more smoothly. High-quality
undermount slides are yet another step up.
Ikea supplies snap-together
drawers that combine adjustable metal sides with integral
drawer slides. A melamine
drawer front matches the rest
of the cabinet.
Economy drawer
Extension: Drawer slides are typically available as full extension or three-quarter extension, meaning either that
the drawer comes all the way out of the cabinet or stops with about a quarter of its depth still buried inside the
cabinet. Full-extension slides are well worth the extra cost. They make it much easier to find things tucked in
the back of the drawer.
Weight ratings: Slides are rated by the weight they are designed to carry—75 lb. or 100 lb. for most kitchen
applications. Slides rated at 75 lb. should be fine for all but the largest and heaviest drawers, but roll-out pantry
shelves or drawers for heavy kitchen appliances do better with beefier slides. Slides with higher capacities also
are available for special applications.
Undermount or side mount: Slides mounted to the side of the drawer box have been the norm. Full-extension
ball-bearing models should work very smoothly and prove durable, but they will be visible when the drawer is
open. Undermount slides are becoming increasingly common. They’re attached to the bottom of the drawer
rather than the sides. Because they’re hidden from view, they make cabinets look more like furniture. Undermounts are often an upgrade, but in some cabinet lines they may be standard.
Undermount
slides
20
20 FINE HOMEBUILDING
Particleboard drawers that
have been stapled together
are a potential weak spot.
These epoxy-coated drawer
slides are three-quarter extension and make access to the
back of the drawer difficult.
Special features: Many cabinet companies now equip their drawers
with soft-close slides that prevent drawers from slamming shut.
Blum, for example, calls the feature “Blumotion.” The mechanism grabs the drawer near the end of its travel, slows
it down, and then gently brings it to a stop. Accuride
offers a similar “Easy-Close” feature on its sidemounted slides.
Blum also has developed a “Servo-Drive,” an electrical mechanism that opens
drawers automatically when the drawer front is touched or the handle is pulled
lightly. Accuride’s “Action-Assist” slides complete the drawer opening after
the drawer has been opened past a “neutral zone” at the midpoint of travel.
It also pulls the drawer closed once it has been returned beyond the neutral
zone. These features make it easier to operate heavy drawers, a plus for homeowners
with physical disabilities. Drawer slides also may come with a quick-release feature
that simplifies removal of a drawer for cleaning.
Photos this page: top, bottom left, courtesy of Accuride; top right, bottom right, Krysta S. Doerfler. Photos facing page: top left, insets
bottom right, courtesy of Kraftmaid; center, Rodney Diaz; top right, Krysta S. Doerfler.
5
the doors
Manufacturers devote a lot of attention to the doors on their
cabinets for good reason: These parts are dominant visual
elements in any kitchen. A single company might offer dozens of door styles. Most kitchen cabinets have overlay doors, meaning the door overlaps the opening. A full-overlay door, such as the
one on the melamine cabinet on p. 62, bottom left, covers the front
of the cabinet completely. Because they are slightly bigger than their
openings, overlay doors don’t require much fitting. Less common are
inset doors, which are housed in the opening when closed (photo
right). They are harder to build and fit, but give cabinets a more
furniture-like quality.
Inset door
and drawer
Materials
Construction
Traditional doors consist of a hardwood frame and panels made
either from solid wood or wood veneer over another material.
Veneered panels are flat and stable, and generally, there
is nothing structurally inferior about them. Veneer can
age differently than solid wood, however, resulting
Cope
in a contrast between the two in woods like cherry
and
that change dramatically with age. Veneer is also
stick
tougher to repair if damaged. Solid-wood panels
allow crisper profiles and are more durable. They
won’t
delaminate, and minor nicks can be sanded out.
One thing to watch for is color and grain match.
Panels are typically glued up from two or more pieces of lumber, and glaring mismatches do occur even
when the wood is of the same species.
Doors also can be made from engineered material, such as
MDF, and covered with a thin layer of vinyl, called thermofoil, or highpressure plastic laminate (see “Finishes,” below).
For frame-and-panel doors, virtually every cabinet manufacturer uses a
cope-and-stick joint in which the interlocking edges of the frame parts
form the glue joint. Only a custom shop (and a small one at
that) is likely to use a more traditional mortise-and-tenon
joint. Cope-and-stick is more practical and economical for
manufacturers, and modern adhesives that hold doors
together are amazingly strong.
Some doors have mitered corners (like a picture
frame) that are doweled or splined together. Seasonal
wood movement makes this type of joint more likely to
open up slightly.
No matter what the style, look at the doors carefully.
On frame-and-panel doors, the joints should be tight and
free of gaps when the cabinets are new. If the panels are
glued up from solid wood, look for a good match in grain and
color between adjacent boards. If the door has a glass panel, the
fit between glass and wood should be neat.
Finishes
Clear finishes: For clear
finishes, most manufacturers use a conversion
varnish topcoat. These
are two-part catalyzed
coatings that form a
very tough surface
when they cure. A clear
coating applied over
unstained wood, what
manufacturers call a
“natural” finish, does
nothing to obscure
the figure and color of
wood. That can be a
strong selling point for
species with dramatic
grain or color. But clear
finishes also do nothing
to hide grain and color
differences in cabinet
parts, a potential disadvantage. Also, if the
surface becomes worn
or damaged, repairs
are beyond the skills of
most do-it-yourselfers.
Stains: Wood stains and
stains combined with
contrasting glazes are a
middle ground between
painted and clear finishes. Stains give wood
surfaces a more uniform
color and can be used
to tweak natural color.
Wellborn Cabinet, for
example, offers a halfdozen stained cherry finishes, plus another eight
that combine stains and
glazes over cherry. Although the wood is still
recognizable as cherry,
the color and contrasting highlights are very
different. The diversity
greatly expands color
choices in the same
wood family. However,
the more complex the
surface, the harder it
is to repair deep nicks
and scratches.
Painted surfaces: These
are somewhat less durable than clear finishes
and might show slight
gaps in joinery more
readily as wood shrinks
and expands seasonally
with changes in humidity. Although painted
surfaces will show
wear and tear, they can
always be repainted,
allowing homeowners
to change the look of
a kitchen quickly and
relatively easily. Glazedpaint finishes can help
to disguise minor flaws
and wood movement,
and sophisticated paint
finishes can realistically
mimic the look of an
antique. But remember
that non-pros will have
trouble repairing complicated, multicoat finishes
in the event of damage.
Laminates and
thermofoil: Inexpensive cabinets
and doors also
can be made from
engineered material, such as MDF,
and covered with a
thin layer of plastic,
called thermofoil, or
Clear
with high-pressure
plastic laminate.
Thermofoil and laminate door cabinets
are easy to keep
clean. Surface damage, however, can
provide a path for
moisture to attack
the door’s core. As
with wood veneer,
Paint glaze
laminate and thermofoil doors are
tough to repair if
damaged.
Stain
Thermofoil
Scott Gibson is a contributing writer
to Fine Homebuilding.
Sponsored in part by
21
remodelers guide
Sponsored in part by
Kitchen
Flooring
From concrete
to cork, here are the
facts you need to
make the right choice
by Matthew teague
wood maintains a tradition of durability and comfort
Aside from rock and dirt, wood floors probably have the longest history of any flooring type. While
traditional, unfinished solid-plank flooring continues to be installed in kitchens across the country,
there are two other wood-floor ­options available that just might outperform it. Engineered and
prefinished wood flooring can be installed more quickly than unfinished solid-wood boards
without abandoning their look, ­comfort, or durability.
Solid wood
➧
Solid-wood
Solid-oak floors have made up the bulk of the wood-flooring industry for years,
flooring
but that doesn’t mean that wood floors have limited style. Solid-wood flooring
can be made out of everything from ash to zebrawood and milled to most any
width you’d like. In the kitchen, hardwoods perform best. Although softEngineered
wood flooring
woods like pine look good and are readily available, they’re not as tough
as hardwood species and wear quickly
under heavy use. Solid hardwoods will last as long
Pros
as your house, and they’re also comfortable underfoot. Wood
Easy on your Cons
flexes just enough to ease the tension on your feet, legs, and back.
➧
feet; warm
underfoot;
durable; wide
range of species, stains,
and prices;
solid wood can
be refinished
multiple times;
engineered
wood installs
quickly; prefinished floors
can be used
immediately.
Can be expensive; susceptible
to water damage; softer species dent easily;
refinishing is an
involved process;
solid wood expands/contracts
with humidity;
refinishing options limited
with engineered
flooring.
Cost
Solid wood: $2–$10 per sq. ft.
Engineered: $3–$12 per sq. ft.
Recycled: $5–$25 per sq. ft.
*Costs reflect materials only.
22 Engineered wood
Engineered floorboards are more dimensionally stable than solidwood flooring, meaning they’re less likely to expand or contract due
to humidity fluctuations. This makes them a great choice for installation over a radiant-heating system. They’re also just as comfortable as
solid wood. The floorboards are made of multiple layers stacked in a
cross-grain pattern and glued up under pressure, much like plywood.
The top layer features a veneer of the best-looking wood, while the
layers underneath can be made of less expensive wood.
Engineered wood floors usually come prefinished. Manufacturers
claim that their applied finishes are much more durable than any
finish that can be applied on site. That said, kitchen activity can be
ruthless, and even the most durable wood floors may need to be
refinished at some point. Although some manufacturers boast that
you can sand an engineered wood floor to refinish it, the top layer
of wood is only 1⁄ 16 in. to 1⁄ 8 in. thick, making it difficult to sand without exposing the layers underneath.
Sources
Advantage Trim & Lumber
www.advantage
lumber.com
Aged Woods
www.agedwoods.com
BHK of America
www.bhkmoderna.com
Bruce Hardwood Flooring
www.bruce.com
Carlisle Wide Plank Floors
www.wideplank
flooring.com
Goodwin Lumber
www.heartpine.com
Heartwood Pine
www.heartwoodpine.com
Mountain Lumber Co.
www.mountainlumber.com
Tarkett
www.tarkett-floors.com
What It’s Worth
www.wiwpine.com
Encore floorboards. Several
companies, including Carlisle
Wide Plank Floors (which
made this walnut floor), use
salvaged logs and recycled
beams to make new flooring.
Large photo: courtesy of Carlisle Wide Plank Floors.
Inset photo: Rodney Diaz.
Laminate looks Better than you think
➧
As much as some laminate flooring looks like solid
wood, it is anything but. Laminate flooring is composed of four different layers of material and can be
made to look like anything from marble to distressed
oak (drawing below). Because of the relatively inexpensive materials that go into laminate flooring, it is one of
the most economical options available.
One of the benefits of laminate is the speed with
which it can be installed. Laminate floors are floating,
meaning they don’t need to be fastened to a subfloor.
Most new laminates snap together using an interlocking tongue-and-groove arrangement. This joint not
only makes installation quick and easy, but it also pulls the boards tightly together, which prevents
liquids from penetrating the seams, a nice quality in a kitchen floor.
While the durability of laminate has always been high, the flooring tended to look fake. Newer
laminate flooring is more convincing than ever. In addition to laminate’s durability and low cost, the
product offers plenty of deflection, making it comfortable
underfoot. Easy to care for, laminate floors require only
occasional damp-mopping.
Photo layer
The photo­
graphic
image allows
laminate
to mimic
anything
from marble
to exotic
hardwood.
Core
Known as the
carrier board,
this piece of
high-density
fiberboard is
considered
the backbone
of each plank.
Backing
Usually made
of melamine,
this sheet
provides
extra
moisture
resistance to
the bottom of
each board.
Durable; easy
on feet; low
maintenance;
can be installed over old
flooring; quiet;
easy installation; low to
moderate cost;
scratch resistant; damaged
planks can be
replaced.
Cons
➧
Wear layer
A hardwearing,
resin-based
melamine
gives
laminate
flooring its
durability.
Pros
Cannot be refinished; some are
expensive; not
hypoallergenic;
wet environments may cause
fiberboard core
to swell.
Cost
$3–$8 per sq. ft.
*Costs reflect materials only.
Sources
Distressing
Knots
Saw marks
Not the laminate you remember. Thanks to advanced manufacturing
processes at companies like Mannington and Quick-Step, laminate
can be adorned with qualities found only on true wood floors.
Top photo: courtesy of Wilsonart. Bottom photos: Krysta S. Doerfler.
Drawing: Don Foley.
ABET Inc.
www.abetlaminati.com
BHK of America
www.bhkmoderna.com
Formica
www.formica.com
Lumber Liquidators
www.lumberliquidators.com
Mannington
www.mannington.com
Pergo
www.pergo.com
Quick-Step
www.quick-step.com
23
Tile and stone are at home in the kitchen
Travertine
Granite
glazed tiles. However, unglazed tiles and
grout lines must be sealed, and textured
floors are more difficult to clean.
Stone
Stone flooring can bring the rustic feel of
the outdoors into your kitchen, or it can
be configured in sleek, uniform, tilelike
orientations to create a more refinedlooking floor.
There are numerous types of stone to
choose from: marble, granite, limestone,
soapstone, travertine, and flagstone
among them. Except for soapstone, all
stone should be sealed to increase its
stain resistance. To care for a stone floor,
you’ll need either a damp mop or a stone
cleaner; consult your stone or floor specialist to determine the best cleaning
practices for the type of stone you install.
An excellent conductor of heat, stone
flooring works well with radiant-floor
heating systems. Although some stone
wears better than others, the average
stone floor is incredibly durable. However,
with this durability comes
hardness, which can be
unforgiving to your feet and
to dropped dishware.
Limestone
Marble
Granite
24 Granite
Stone doesn’t
have to be so
rugged. Stone
can be cut into
smooth, uniform
tiles to create a
more reserved
yet equally durable kitchen floor.
➧
Tried-and-true. ­Beyond its durability and ease of mainte­nance, tile offers a large variety of colors, shapes, and sizes, which makes a one-of-a-kind kitchen much more attainable.
Pros
Wide variety;
low maintenance; can be
stain resistant;
won’t fade;
works well with
radiant-floor
heat; creates
very natural
look (stone);
inexpensive
(some tile).
Cons
➧
Tile is often the first material that comes
to mind when people think of a kitchen
floor, and it has probably been that way
for a while. Archaeologists have discovered thin slabs of fired clay dating back
to about 4700 B.C. Today’s tile isn’t much
different. Modern tile consists of clay and
minerals that are shaped, pressed, and
fired at high temperatures to create a
hard surface.
Ceramic tiles are available in nonporcelain and porcelain versions. Porcelain
tiles are made from ingredients similar to
those found in fine dinnerware and are
fired at higher temperatures than nonporcelain tiles. The end product is incredibly dense and homogenous throughout,
meaning that if you drop a cast-iron pan
and chip the tile, the material below is the
same color as the surface. Nonporcelain
tiles achieve their color from an applied
glaze, and damage is more noticeable.
When shopping for tile, remember that
all tiles can be used on walls, but not all
tiles can be used on floors. Floor tiles
must be rated as such, and for durability,
kitchen tiles must be at least a category III
(out of a I to IV rating). What’s a strength
to some might be a weakness to others:
Tile’s density, hardness, and rigidity make
it durable, but that also can translate into
sore legs for cooks who need to stand in
the kitchen for a long time.
Spills are inevitable in the kitchen, so
look for tile that has good slip resistance.
Unglazed tiles offer better traction than
Cold underfoot;
susceptible to
cracking or chipping; grout may
stain or crack;
grout requires
maintenance; can
be slippery when
wet; hard on
your feet; noisy;
dropped items
likely to break;
must be sealed
regularly (stone);
can be expensive.
Cost
Ceramic tile: $1–$12 per sq. ft.
Stone: $4–$18 per sq. ft.
*Costs reflect materials only.
Sources
Ceramic Tiles of Italy
www.italytile.com
Crossville Inc.
www.crossvilleinc.com
Dal-Tile Corp.
www.daltile.com
Green Mountain Soapstone Corp.
www.greenmountainsoapstone.com
Marble Granite Depot
www.marblegranitedepot.com
The Mosaic Tile Co.
www.mosaictileco.com
Tile Council of North America
www.tileusa.com
Tile of Spain Center
www.tilespain.com
*For stone tile, look for tile dealers rather than
stone dealers.
Photos this page: top, Charles Bickford; bottom, Rodney Diaz. Photos facing page: top right,
courtesy of Forbo Flooring; top left, Rodney Diaz; bottom, courtesy of Armstrong.
Sources
Armstrong World Industries
www.armstrong.com
Forbo Flooring Systems
www.themarmoleumstore.com
Pros
Biodegradable; antistatic;
resilient; comfortable underfoot; many colors available;
hypoallergenic;
homogeneous
throughout;
durable; easy
installation.
Cons
➧
After falling out of vogue when vinyl became the kitchen floor
of choice in the 1960s, linoleum has undergone a revival in
recent years due to its standing as an environmentally friendly
flooring option. Linoleum takes less energy to manufacture
than most flooring, and it is made primarily from natural
materials: linseed oil, wood flour, limestone, tree resins, and
natural jute. Linoleum also can be installed using a solventfree adhesive. When made of all-natural products, linoleum is
100% biodegradable and has no VOC emissions. Forbo, the
company that introduced Marmoleum, even recycles all of its
post-production waste.
Available in sheets and tiles of varying sizes and in more than
150 colors and patterns, Forbo’s Marmoleum and Armstrong’s
Marmorette are highly versatile from a design standpoint. Linoleum also wears well and actually gets better with age: Exposure to air causes linoleum to harden, but it remains resilient,
comfortable, and quiet underfoot. It’s also hypoallergenic.
➧
Linoleum is low impact and biodegradable
Difficult to
­repair; difficult
to find installer;
seams may
be visible and
­intrusive.
Cost
$3–$6 per sq. ft.
*Costs reflect materials only.
➧
Vinyl is low maintenance
Pros
Domco
www.domco.com
Mannington
www.mannington.com
Cons
➧
Resilient;
durable; inexpensive; easy
on your feet;
quiet; low
maintenance;
water resistant;
Sources
wide sheets
Amtico International Inc.
hide seams in
www.amtico.com
small rooms;
Armstrong World Industries easy to install;
www.armstrong.com
wide variety
available; easy
Congoleum
www.congoleum.com
maintenance.
Seams visible
in wide rooms;
seams susceptible to water
damage; gloss
finishes are slippery when wet;
can fade or yellow; pattern can
wear off; seams
may lift.
Cost
$2–$5 per sq. ft.
*Costs reflect materials only.
Photo top right: courtesy of Forbo Flooring.
Top left: Rodney Diaz. Bottom: courtesy of Armstrong.
Vinyl has been vastly improved—in both design and quality—since
its no-wax heyday in the 1960s. Sheet vinyl is available in widths
ranging from 6 ft. to 12 ft., while vinyl tiles are usually sold in 12-in.
squares. Vinyl even comes in plank form to mimic hardwood. Each
type is available in an almost endless array of colors and designs.
Vinyl is generally composed of four layers. A clear wear coat,
usually made of urethane, helps to prevent scratches and eases
cleanup. A layer of clear vinyl provides durability. The printed layer,
similar to laminate flooring, creates the look of the floor, while a
backing of either felt or fiberglass adds rigidity. Vinyl with a felt
backing must be glued to a subfloor. Fiberglass-backed floors are
more comfortable and generally don’t require any adhesive because
they are far less likely to curl at the edges.
Some manufacturers produce inlaid vinyl flooring in which granules
of color are embedded to lend a richer appearance. Inlaid patterns
wear better than vinyl with only a printed photographic image, but
they typically cost a bit more. Many manufacturers also add texture
to create a more realistic, 3-D effect that closely mimics the surfaces
they intend to replicate.
Sponsored in part by
25
Green flooring
makes good use of unlikely materials
Easy on your
feet; warm;
unique ­texture;
environ­men­
tally friendly;
fire-retardant;
hypoallergenic.
Cons
Edges of prefinished floors must
be sealed; not
the most durable
flooring option.
Cost
$3–$9 per sq. ft.
*Costs reflect materials only.
Sources
Corkdirect
www.corkdirect.com
USFloors
www.naturalcork.com
Rubber
Pros
Comfortable
underfoot;
contemporary
look; durable;
easy maintenance; can be
custom colored; resilient.
Cons
➧
Available in a variety of colors and
patterns, rubber floors don’t have
to look as industrial as you might
think. The various raised patterns
on rubber floors are designed to
improve traction, but they also
lend a decorative, contemporary
look to a kitchen. Rubber flooring is available in both sheets and
tiles and is generally installed with
a solvent-free adhesive.
If you’re looking for the performance traits of rubber in an
environmentally responsible product, look to the manufacturer
Expanko and its residential product, Reztec. This flooring is made
of a combination of postindustrial-waste rubber, virgin rubber, and
recycled tires.
➧
AmCork
www.amcork.com
Lumber Liquidators
www.lumber
liquidators.com
Putting old tires to good
use. This rubber flooring
from Expanko is vibrantly
colored, comfortable, and
durable, and is made of
rubber that would otherwise be tossed in the trash.
26 Pros
➧
Cork is harvested from live cork
oak trees without cutting down
the actual tree or corrupting the
habitat in which it grows. The
cork, which is similar to the outer
layer of bark on a tree, regrows
and is ready to harvest every 9 to
14 years. Multiple manufacturers
now offer both unfinished and
prefinished cork flooring in both
tiles and glueless tongue-andgroove planks. Warm and comfortable to walk on, cork floors
are also resilient. The flooring
compresses underfoot or under
the impact of a dropped plate,
and rebounds to its full volume.
This resilience does have limits:
If large appliances or pieces of
furniture remain in the same spot
for long lengths of time, the
underlying cork can become
permanently deformed.
➧
Cork
Can be difficult
to find; few
­experienced
installers;
­expensive; some
products can
be damaged by
spills.
Cost
$4–$20 per sq. ft.
*Costs reflect materials only.
Sources
Expanko
www.expanko.com
Quality Flooring 4 Less
www.qualityflooring4less.com
Photos this page: top, Charles Bickford; bottom, Rodney Diaz.
Photos facing page: top right, Joseph Kugielsky; all others, Rodney Diaz.
Flat grain
Bamboo
Vertical grain
End grain
Strand woven
As hard as maple and as durable as oak, bamboo
is marketed as an environmentally friendly choice.
Tonkin and moso—the species of bamboo used to
manufacture most flooring—grow to full height in
about six months and naturally replenish themselves
once harvested. Be aware, however, that some manufacturers harvest at four to six years because this late
growth lends significant strength to the bamboo.
There are four main styles of bamboo flooring on
the market: flat grain, vertical grain, end grain, and
strand woven. Each has a different price point, aesthetic, and level of durability. Flat-grain bamboo is the
least expensive type of bamboo flooring.
Bamboo is naturally pale yellow but is often put
through a heating process, which caramelizes its
natural sugars and gives it an amber tone.
Which is the most durable?
All bamboo is tough enough
for the kitchen, but endgrain and strand-woven
bamboo are the hardest.
Jacobean
Dimensionally
Different
Cognac
⁄ -in.-thick
bamboo mounted
to engineered
planking
➧
1 8
A broad color palette.
Bamboo is difficult to stain
evenly, but factory-applied
colorants give this flooring
an even, enriched look.
Warm underfoot; durable;
some give
underfoot;
available
prefinished;
available as an
easy-to-install
engineered
product.
Cons
Warm and
comfortable
underfoot;
durable; available prefinished; uses
waste
products.
Cons
Limited color
options; limited
products on
the market;
prefinished
planks leave
seams unsealed.
➧
Pecan
Pros
Pros
➧
Bamboo flooring
can be purchased
as a solid product
in 5⁄ 8-in.-thick
tongue-and-groove
strips or mounted
on an engineered
plank. Either type
can be finished on
site or purchased
prefinished.
Palm, a relative newcomer to
the flooring market, is made from the
hard, dark wood of plantationgrown coconut palm trees that no longer produce coconuts. After about 100
years, coconut palms grow so large that
nutrients from the soil no longer reach
the nuts, so the trees stop producing and
have to be cut down. The lumber, which
often went unused before, is sliced, dried,
and laminated together—much like plywood—using nontoxic adhesives.
Sold in 5⁄ 8-in.-thick, 72-in.-long tongueand-groove strips, palm flooring installs
much like traditional hardwood flooring.
The end product is about 25% harder
than red oak, so it performs relatively well
in the kitchen. Palm wears and reacts with
water in very similar ways to traditional
hardwood floors. The finishing and maintenance requirements are similar as well.
Palm flooring is available in both edgegrain or flat-grain orientations and can be
purchased unfinished or prefinished with
natural, walnut, or ebony stains.
➧
Stained Irish moss
⁄ 8-in.-thick
solid bamboo
5
Palm
Limited color
options; limited products
on the market;
prefinished
planks leave
seams
unsealed.
Cost
$4–$8 per sq. ft.
*Costs reflect materials only.
Cost
Sources
Cali Bamboo
www.calibamboo.com
Smith & Fong
www.plyboo.com
Teragren
www.teragren.com
USFloors
www.naturalcork.com
$9–$10 per sq. ft.
*Costs reflect materials only.
Source
Smith & Fong, www.plyboo.com
Matthew Teague is a contributing writer
for Fine Homebuilding. He lives in
Nashville, Tenn.
Sponsored in part by
27