The Beauty`s Inside Issue Four Here

Transcription

THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
ISSUE 04
1
Editor
Julia Robson
Graphic Designer
Lauren Chalmers
Project Managers
Camilla Butler
Special Projects Manager, LCF
Jason Oakley-Cleife
Resettlement Officer, HMP Send
*Sir John Cass’s Foundation is an
independent grant making charity
that supports a wide range of
educational establishments,
which bear the name of the
Founder, in addition to special
educational projects, including
those focussing on prisoner
education, as well as grants and
bursaries for students in London.
The Foundation takes its name
from Sir John Cass (1661-1718)
who was a City of London
politician and philanthropist. It
is pleased to be supporting this
publication and to have been
involved in this award winning
project from its inception in 2009.
CONTRIBUTORS
HMP Send
Amanda, Andréia, Akila, Amie, April, Bianca,
Charlotte, Charlotte C, Chloe, Dawn, Ella,
Elizabeth, Emma, Jane, Joanne, Keely, Pippa,
Rachel, Shelon, Sophie, Susie, Victoria
London College Of Fashion
Ruby Abbiss
BA (Hons) Fashion Journalism
Isabel Calabria
Camilla Gee
BA (Hons) BA(Hons) Fashion Journalism
Hanna Ollivier de Leth
Frankie Lee
Ryan Lee Vincent
With special thanks to
Sir John Cass’s Foundation*
Professor Frances Corner
OBE, Head of LCF, Pro Vice-Chancellor,
University of the Arts London
Carlene Dixon
Governor, HMP Send
Dave Charity
Acting Governor, HMP Send
Josephine Collins
Course Leader, BA (Hons) Fashion Journalism,
London College of Fashion
Rebecca Doolan
Social Responsibility Team Administrator, LCF
Ruth Eardley
CM, HMP Send
Sara Ginley
Officer, HMP Send
Tony Glenville
Creative Director, LCF
Barbara Jones
Enrichment Activities Lead, HMP Send
Glynis Maher
BA: People Hub
2
Kelly Nethercoat
Head of Reducing Reoffending, HMP Send
Gary Pritchard
Acting Head of Security & Operations, HMP Send
Claire Swift
Director of Social Responsibility, LCF
David Swinburne
Hub Manager, HMP Send
www.catwalking.com
Guest Lecturers
Deborah Bee and Harrods Magazine
Caryn Franklin
Jane Lyle
Kath Melandri
Denise Reeves
Carl Stanley
Joe Toronka
Dr Hannah Zeilig
Photography
Ryan Saradjola
BA (Hons) Fashion Photography
Tuo Yi
BA (Hons) Fashion Photography
Illustration
Talisa Piggott | @talisadanielle
BA (Hons) Fashion Textiles: Embroidery
Dave John | www.dave-john.com
BA (Hons) Fashion Textiles: Print
All the HMP minibus drivers, everybody
working on the gate at HMP Send and all the
officers who helped during workshops, the
photo shoot and the project.
Printed by HMP Coldingley Printshop
Welcome to the fourth issue of The Beauty’s
Inside, a unique collaboration between
London College of Fashion and HMP Send.
What does colour mean to you? A question that came
up on the initial brainstorming session went on to start
something of an ongoing theme for issue 4.
and advertising; fashion journalist and editor, Deborah
Bee, who works for luxury store, Harrods, gave us an
intriguing insider’s view on fashion shoots (her favourite
being one with Will.i.am). We also learnt about the
complexities of living within an ageing population from
one of the UK’s leading experts on the subject, Dr Hannah
Zeilig; and how astrology works from guru, Jane Lyle.
From exploring the diversity of the colour spectrum itself
– given HMP Send’s link with art - to loving (or hating)
pink - or regulation prison greens - has been explored
in these pages. Even the main fashion shoot sees hot,
tropical colour where you’d least expect it (in the gardens
which became the backdrop for our photo-shoot!). Flashes
of bright colour feature in Sports Luxe, a fashion story
prisoners and students felt passionately about.
One of the highlights of the project is always our fashion
shoot. This time we had professional fashion stylist, Joe
Toronka, to help, along with the brilliant hair and make-up
artist, Carl Stanley, who used his talents to bring out the
best in us.
And colour, from a race and culture perspective, is also
a topic that got us talking, in particular the differences
between white and black skin (and the gradient shades of
black skin) - and hair.
I hope this issue effectively underlines the breadth of
talent, style and wisdom within the Send community.
Several features showcase how prisoners have used their
time constructively, learning new skills, languages, taking
on responsibility by becoming reps and helping others on
projects such as, Keep Out. By reading their experiences
you can’t help but feel inspired.
The diversity of women at Send is crucial to creating
it’s unique and creative community. Here, women keep
themselves busy not just working (or even working out in
the gym) but working on themselves. The fruits of many of
their labours are showcased within this magazine, which is
once again funded by Sir John Cass’s Foundation*
This magazine represents several months of Wednesday
afternoon workshops where participants from Send and
LCF students work together to generate ideas.
Enjoy your magazine, which benefits from some great
writing and reporting thanks to students and resident
aspiring writers, artists, poets and creators. Thanks to all
who contributed in every - and any - way. This magazine is
dedicated to all who want to make a difference and change
their lives…for the better.
Guests who joined us included fashion guru, Caryn
Franklin, who talked about taking a pro-active stance
towards challenging stereotypical body image in fashion
Julia Robson
Editor
1
THE
SECRET
LANGUAGE
OF
COLOUR
WORDS BY RYAN LEE VINCENT
PHOTOGRAPHY BY RYAN SARADJOLA
4
‘What’s your favourite
colour?’ is probably one of the
first questions we get asked as
children. Choosing becomes
one of the most essential parts
of our emerging personality
during childhood and early
school years.
Colour is often left as just that – whether its
green, pink or orange - but the power of colour
goes way beyond which one you wear the
most, or which one matches your eyes.
Colour is a shared experience that conjures up
memories and sensations crossing cultural
and social barriers both as a contrived
device for communication and as a naturally
occurring, free-flowing ethereal object.
Advertisers and marketers would have you
thinking blue sells, red attracts new customers,
yellow’s a turn-off and so on but if truth be told,
colour is about as subjective an experience
as experiences get. Centuries of cultural
appropriation of colour have constructed such
a complex system of colour interpretation
that reading colours is an exercise almost as
arbitrary as reading star signs. Where the truth
really lies is in the wavelengths; a bit of science
that goes a long way.
Red, associated with attraction, lust, love
and all those fiery emotions, isn’t just that
way because fire is hot and red. Red hues
have the longest wavelength and therefore
reach our eyes first; grabbing our attention
and making anything red appear closer.
Warning signs, stop signs and fire exits are
red exactly for this reason.
On the other end of the spectrum, violet has
the shortest wavelength and takes that little
bit longer to recognise and register, making it
a calmer less intrusive colour. Violet and deep
purples are associated with intellectualism,
spiritualism and royalty, as that little bit of extra
awareness signifies a higher level of thought!
Green, smack dab in the centre of the
spectrum doesn’t make our eyes adjust at all;
it’s a perfectly neutral colour. Peace, serenity
and balance are all associated with green to
echo this sense of stability and neutrality.
The Meaning Of Colour
The science behind the meaning of colour
makes it seem like colour interpretation isn’t
so arbitrary after all; there must be something
to it if there’s science behind it, right?
Red
Embodies passion, love and lust. In a
negative light, the colour of war and
blood, used to commemorate service
to one’s country.
People have done a lot over the years to push
their own interpretations into more objective
reasoning behind the meanings of colours.
Not surprisingly, a lot of these are in line with
those nifty titbits on wavelengths (but some
are just ridiculous).
Colour has had its fair share of contention
to it as well. As the source of cultural feuds,
the shade of fear and hate, prejudice and
injustice. The interpretation of colour has
proved a dangerous social tool. The branding
of colour as the definition of value for a race
or an individual has displayed the humanconstructed power of colour at its absolute
worst. Taking anything at face value is
dangerous. Turned on its head, the diversity
of the human race can reinforce the power
of colour as a positive thing: the beauty and
variety of the natural world embodied in the
diversity of the human race.
From complex theories on colour from a
scientific and psychological perspective, to
looser interpretations based purely on feeling
and association, colour means a lot of things.
Orange
The colour of playfulness and delight,
used to signify youthfullness and physical
comfort.
Yellow
As the colour of sunshine, is generally
associated with hope and happiness.
Oddly enough, yellow is also seen as a
colour of deceit and cowardice.
Green
The colour of peace, serenity and
balance, used to signify mindfulness
of the environment.
Teal
Lying between blue and green, teal is
seen as a colour of life and calm and is
associated with creativity and idealism.
Colour is a celebration - the purples, greens
and golds of Mardi Gras, the tropical tones of
Carnival, the confetti popping and firework
blasting of US Independence Day on July 4th or
November 5th’s Bonfire Night.
Blue
The colour of sea and sky, blue is seen
as a colour of depth, loyalty and integrity
making it a popular choice for brand logos.
Colour is pride - the red white and blue of the
Union Jack, the rainbow stripes of LGBTQ
advocates and supporters, the countless
colours of flags around the world.
Violet
Violet is associated with intellectualism,
spiritualism and royalty as well as higher
levels of thought and creativity.
Colour is yours - the colour of your eyes, your
skin, your favourite colour, the colour of your
favourite clothes, the colour of your love, your
sadness, your happiness, your joy and your
power - it’s yours to use and yours to love.
Purple
A mix of fierce red and calm blue, purple is
a balance of spirituality and physicality also seen as a colour of luxury and wealth.
Apart from whatever wavelengths or theorists
have to tell you, colour is a tool everyone is
given to use as they please and its power is as
undeniable as it is beautiful.
3
6
7
VISITING TIME
WORDS BY CAMILLA GEE
The way you dress - whether you intend it to or not – sends out a coded message to others about
you. So here’s some advice on what to wear for those important days when looking great means
so much and not just to you…
Although most of the time we adapt our clothes
to suit our environment or daily tasks, looking
chic 24/7 is tiring; and unless you are the type
who enjoys prancing around in front of the
mirror, pointless.
Dressing to impress for a particular occasion,
one that can have repercussions if not enough
thought and care are put into it, however, is a
different case entirely. Knowing what to wear
for visiting time can be a particularly complex
scenario for women at HMP Send.
“All the girls know when someone else has a
visit,” says, Keely, raising an eyebrow… wisely.
“They can tell. The girls will compliment each
other.” She continues, explaining a kind of
invisible support system that every prisoner
will appreciate.
your hair and make-up and looking like you’ve
“let go” can set off worries, so too can going
the other way.
Visits from family and friends can act as a
lifeline. They can also give a chance - and
reason - for women to dress to impress in
their own unique way. To get much needed
compliments to boost self-esteem and feel
good about yourself and ‘normal’.
But they can also be stressful too. Trying to
convince those who know you the best that
everything is fine (when it’s not) requires a
lot of effort. Which is why so many prisoners
opt for some kind of a balance. Comfort
dressing is an agreed part of life at Send.
Most women will dress firstly for comfort
There is a large acceptance within the prison
that most women will go that extra mile to
make more of an effort for visits than if it were
just an ordinary day. “We will see other women
getting really dressed up,” says Charlotte.
“They will be going to the salon, getting their
hair and eyelashes done. I definitely make
more effort with my hair and make-up.”
“Perfect hair and make-up,
in particular, play a big part
in how women reassure
loved ones that they are
okay and coping.”
Perfect hair and make-up, in particular, play
a big part in how women reassure loved ones
that they are okay and coping. “I feel like
this helps my family to feel I am doing well,”
explains Charlotte who takes particular care
with her cosmetics and hair when seeing
loved ones. “I don’t necessarily wear anything
special. I used to but not anymore.” Charlotte
hints just as by visibly not making an effort in
rather than opting for something drastic, or
experimenting with a new high fashion look.
The onsite clothing boutique, Sendsations,
helps. Although prisoners may tell you this
doesn’t necessarily have the most choice (“it’s
a bit hit and miss” admits Keely), bearing in
mind clothes have to last, it more than serves
6
its purpose in terms of everyday, dressy and
casualwear. “I mostly wear jeans for comfort
with a designer top for visits,” Keely reveals.
“I wouldn’t normally wear the top around the
prison any other time. It’s a working prison
so you don’t get the time to wear that sort of
thing.” Elizabeth agrees. “I will wear jeans to
be comfy,” adding, “but you tend to keep your
best clothes for a visit”.
Keely also reiterates how she feels it is
important for her to give serious thought about
choosing to wear that special top with jeans, to
send out the message to her family that she is
coping well. “I will also always do my make-up
and lashes. Most of the girls do that too.”
At Send because visiting times vary and can be
held on different days, it’s easy to spot who is
expecting a visit – as well as who is not.
Sadly not everyone at Send gets visits. One
prisoner in this situation explains why she has
chosen not to. “I don’t want my family to see
me in here,” she explains. To her, prison is not
the right environment for her family to be in
or to see her in. If you share her opinion or, for
whatever reason, do not have visits, there is
still a way to have visitors.
The chapel can arrange for a volunteer to come
in and see women who want to but do not have
regular visits. (They are also able to help you to
find someone to write letters to, if you prefer
this). And can organise the same visitor every
time. Which begs the question, how might you
dress for a volunteer visitor? I’d say, dress to
impress - even if it’s only to impress yourself.
LEARNING ARABIC
WORDS BY JOANNE
Being in prison is difficult. Learning something new is a way to challenge yourself, take
your mind off things and come up with something positive you can do on your own.
I decided to learn a new language: Arabic.
Its fun and tests your mental ability.
Having a good memory helps but isn’t vital.
Remembering the alphabet is the hardest
part. I have pinned mine on the wall.
Putting words into sentences to speak
does make it easier and gives a sense
of achievement.
A special thank you to sister Fatima,
for her time and patience.
To find out more about learning languages
speak to your offender supervisor and the
education department who will deal with
applications for this.
Thank you
SHUHKRAN
Hello
MARHABA
Goodbye
MA’A SALAMA
Please
MIN FUDLUK [m] / MIN FUDLIK [f]
7
10
A MORE EVEN PLAYING FIELD
WORDS BY APRIL
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TUO YI
I became the Black Ethnic Minorities Rep to represent the views and
specifically the needs of a group that make up roughly around 26% of
prisoners at Send. Surprisingly it’s a diverse community in here but there
wasn’t a BME rep, although other smaller minorities seemed to have someone.
I put in my application after going to a
meeting with prisoners where the lack of
skin products for black skin, particularly lack
of make-up foundation and hair products
available, came up.
If you are mixed race, dual heritage or black,
tending to your hair is a cultural issue. Also,
even though we are classed as just one group
under BME we come from many different
cultures. The way a Black British woman would
wear a wig, say, is different from other races
and how they do their hair.
If you are mixed race you have various types
of hair type as well as skin tones. One of the
things that came out of this meeting was how
the (synthetic) hair you can buy as weaves
aren’t specified in terms of 12” or 16”. Hair and
skin products for Black women are specific.
Also Black people’s skin can be very
sensitive, you need cocoa butter to
moisturize. Depending on your type of hair,
you need a product to keep it moisturized.
The problem is that a lot of officers dealing
with this are mostly men. If you say to a man
you need make-up they think it’s a vanity
thing. I know this is prison. I know it’s not a
hotel but this is about BME people getting
what they need. Not what they want. This is
not about eyelashes. It’s about correct skin
products for skin. It’s not even about makeup although that’s a sore point. Presently
there is only one colour of foundation suitable
for Black skin: Beige. Not even two you could
mix together. There are three places you look
when you see a person: head (so face and hair),
then hands and feet.
Products on the list should represent the
needs of all women here. If there were a better
mix of stuff it would allow women to be more
confident, feel they are being supported and
start to feel better.
“What I’ve learned is that a
rep’s job is about listening,
as much as talking and to
both sides too”
The lack of products is having a negative
impact in many ways. Say if your family are
used to seeing you dressed up looking tidy
and wearing make-up and then you turn up for
visits wearing no make-up and looking pale
and like a vampire, the message to your family
is: I’m not coping. They worry. This impacts on
the prisoner and family.
9
There’s also the issue of saving up to
buy things. The goal is to get yourself
looking good; it’s about greater selfesteem, confidence, and caring about
your appearance. I’m 25 and I know having
confidence in my appearance is really
important. Much more so than if you
were older.
Saving creates a duck and dive situation and
makes it hard. I know people who go without
‘burn’, phone credit and juice to save up to buy
Avon. Some items take a long time to arrive.
We have a focus group every three months.
I’ve only been to one meeting so far. I offer
peer support to everyone that falls under the
BME category and who comes to the meeting
to raise issues. Right now I’m trying to explain
to the Safer Custody Manager that power pick
attachments for hairdryers on blocks would
be really time saving. I am putting this to them
and helping to educate about Black hair care.
What I’ve learned is that a rep’s job is about
listening, as much as talking and to both sides
too. It’s important to explain why women feel
the way they do and explain it in a way so
everyone understands each other.
I have to negotiate… get my foot in the door.
Reason with people. Be fair. Ultimately, a fairer
playing field is what everyone is after.
ROMANY
WORDS BY KEELY
Coming to terms with a prison sentence and finding yourself alone,
when you are used to the safety and sanctuary of your community, can
be a terrifying experience. One prisoner who hails from a travelling
background, has used her time constructively, and found opportunities and
ways to help herself and other women overcome challenges.
I wanted to write an article for this year’s
magazine because I had so much fun
modelling in a fashion shoot for last year’s The
Beauty’s Inside magazine. I loved the pictures
that appeared and talking to other women in
prison about it. I wanted to pass on a message
to any other gypsy and traveller girls reading
this about taking up opportunities like this.
I come from a very old traditional Romany
Gypsy family. I have been married to my
husband since I was 16 years old and have 4
beautiful tikners (children). But I have never
been alone. I have never been without my
family, where all decisions are made together,
usually by elders in my family.
originate from West India; our language is a
cross between Indian, Egyptian and slang.
Like Indian girls, we also are not meant to
cut our hair. We have never been locked up
not even as children. The country was our
playground. We freely roamed the world.
Obviously I was drawn to other gypsy girls
whose upbringing was the same as mine but I
found I could get on with non-travelling people
and even surprisingly with governors (officers)
as we are brought up never to trust a uniform.
You never disagree. So I wasn’t sure how I was
going to cope with a prison sentence being
without my family. I was for the first time in
my life alone and surrounded by Gorjas (non
travelling people) whose traditions, culture;
lifestyle and even language was different to mine.
Now I was surrounded by men in uniform but
I found a new confidence in myself. I found I
could make my own decisions. First I signed up
to do the beauty therapy course for 15 months.
I studied beauty and I am now a qualified
beautician, which is a big achievement for a
gypsy girl, as I haven’t had too much schooling.
They found I was dyslexic but that’s okay. Now
there are four travelling girls enrolled on a
beauty course.
The women in the gypsy community are
brought up to take care of their husbands
and to cook and clean. The men work, protect
and provide. Men and women don’t socialize
together. Don’t sit in the pub together. The
men are with the men. The women are with
the women. I know many non-travelling
people don’t understand this but it has
worked for us for hundreds of years. We
I also became the gypsy and traveller rep
in the prison about ten months ago. I had to
convince them that they needed a rep. At safer
custody meetings I would get really nervous
but because I want to get things done I had
to stand up for others and myself. I accept
there is good and bad in every culture but even
in prison there is a trust issue with traveller
women. One of the travelling girls wanted to
10
apply for a floristry course and needed to write
500 words to support her application. When
she asked me for help, I told her to start off by
saying she was from a travelling community.
She said, “I can’t say that! “And I told her, ‘I
used to say that. But now it’s the first thing I
say, because it defines who I am.’ I helped her
write the 500 words and when it was finished
she said, ‘How did you know how to do this?’
I don’t know how… I just knew. It comes from
understanding who you are.
My aim as a rep was to get staff to get
cultural training so that no issues surrounding
travellers would be twisted and we would
have the same opportunities available to us.
I wanted to go about it properly. It was also
to do with being constructive with my time.
I have fought for things like the gypsy and
traveller girls being allowed to have two bowls,
one for washing cutlery and plates, and one for
hand washing. As gypsy girls, you are brought
up never to mix bowls as it’s thought to be
mogerty (dirty). So ask for your other bowl girls.
Romany gypsys even have their own flag. So I
just want to say to any gypsy or traveller girls
reading this: find yourself. Become yourself.
Do something with your time. This is your
time. Just because you haven’t done it before,
doesn’t mean you can’t. We are very special
people after all.
STAYING POSITIVE
WORDS BY SOPHIE
As the saying goes – beauty comes from within. I believe that image plays an
important role in our day-to-day lives and brings out the best in us. Here’s how
image and faith can help transform you to be more positive and confident.
When you step out, people will judge you
firstly by the way you look, dress and by
the way you present yourself. Either by
communication, or the way you relate to
others with your body language. But it doesn’t
have to be about other people’s opinions
about you. Positive self-image should give
you a good feeling, which will surface on the
outside as well as a positive and confident
person who is comfortable in your own skin.
This sort of positive attitude gives you good
energy left over to shine on you and others.
Positive attitude makes you ooze with
optimism no matter what situation you are
going through. I know it might not be easy
especially when one is facing trials like the
one we are all in but from my experience it’s
worth trying because it has increased my
confidence and given me strength to carry on
shining, smiling and encouraging others.
It feels good when people compliment and
appreciate you. It affirms the result of your
image. We all know that we have limited
resources to help us improve our image but
when I get good, complimentary comments
by even people who come from outside to
visit, it encourages me to keep on working
on my positive image. The feel good factor
makes me pass my positive energy to
others by contributing goodness and being
a blessing because not everyone has the
positive energy within them as we are all
created differently.
Sometimes a kind and positive word may
heal and bless. Through this experience I
have promised myself one thing “they can
label me but they will not take my peace
and soul away.” I am still standing full of
hope throughout this experience. Another
very important factor that helps me is my
faith. Through my faith and by God’s grace,
I have learnt how to be patient, kind,
loving, peaceful and hopeful - which is not
easy in prison. God has, against all odds,
given me strength to help where I can help
and encourage others who are finding it
hard to cope.
I have come to be positive. I believe I am the
master of my fate and the captain of my
destiny. Behind every real glory there is a real
and solid story – sometimes of painful waiting,
labouring and tears but I know that my God is
on my side. I will bounce back as every setback
is a fresh set-up. I am not one of those who
gives up easily. Winners stand out and never
give up. Life is what you make it. So I will take
this experience as a blessing. I have achieved
a lot through staying positive. In turn this will
keep me positive with my future plans, ideas
and career projects.
11
Tips on staying positive
Take a real interest in others and what
they have to say.
Be truly happy for others achievements.
Have genuine body language, warm
hugs, real smiles and inquisitive eyes.
Make others feel at ease with positive
energy and reserve judgement.
Celebrate others successes in the
same way you celebrate your own.
Lastly ladies, appreciate the
gift of life because we are strong
and unbreakable.
PRISON
UNIFORM
DIY
WORDS BY ROWENA
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TUO YI
Are prison greens giving you
the blues? Think all uniforms
look the same? You can still be
unique wearing yours.
Comfortable being judged as someone who
has lost their identity or having their image
ruined? Or, faced with a fashion challenge, are
you someone who will use uniform as a starting
point to enhance and bring out their own style,
perhaps? It can help reveal your artistic vision
and show off your knowledge of trends and
that you are streetwise (even if you’re not!).
You can’t change the uniform but you can
make subtle changes to how you wear that
uniform. The stylish results will boost your
self-esteem without making you feel you are
dressing up for the wrong reasons. It will still
be practical, right? This is adapting fashion to
suit yourself and your surroundings.
There is nothing wrong with having to comply
with rules or a dress code. Just get into the
mindset that you are making your own mark
and giving prison uniform your own personal
take. Remember to get your swag on and stay
confident. The uniform may be the same but
you are an individual.
1. Roll Up Roll Up
01
oll back the sleeves of the t-shirt and then
R
tuck in. Work the boy/girl androgyny trend by
using different coloured laces for dark, heavy
prison issue boots. Also try braiding hair.
2. Prettify
Get you in a pretty dress. Polish prison boots
with hair conditioner for a great shine. Use
pink laces or put lace tops around socks. You
could ruff up your hair or tie with a ribbon or
clip. This looks best with little or no make up.
Let your skin breathe and allow the sun and
wind to caress your skin. Feel fresh.
3. Orange Is The New Black
Wear the colour that rocked the AW15/16
catwalks everyday everywhere with the
regulation orange hood jacket. HMP Send’s
own. Team with navy blue bottoms and baby
blue vest stamped in bold print emblazoned
with SEND (as if you and others didn’t already
know where you were!) Wear with prison boots.
Rough up your hair and tie in a ribbon or clip.
Also make sure you use sun factor cream to
moisturise dry skin. Be natural. Let your skin
glow and use feminine power to sizzle with
glamour. And most of all have a great day.
12
03
“The uniform may be the same
but you really are an individual.”
02
Rowena’s Fashion Rules
Shoes
Buy decent footwear that can
dress up or down. Like a great
pair of loafers or thick crepe
sole ankle boots. This can
save you money in the long
run. Quality pays for itself.
Two pairs of good shoes and
one pair of trainers will be a
smart investment.
Colour
Think carefully about what
matches or co-ordinates
rather than your favourite
shades. Stick to three
principle colours, like blues,
greys or blacks, which will
blend in with most other
colours. Keep it simple: Invest
in key items such as one
cardigan, jumper, or sweat
tops or trousers. Outfits that
can fulfill multiple occasions.
Mix N Match
Have at least two or three
outfits for ‘best’ but make
sure they can mix and match.
Like two pairs of trousers, a
t-shirt, great blouse, beautiful
dress and cardigan or jacket.
Three outfits and a good
attempt at mix and match.
13
Make Up
Buy quality from Avon. It may
take a few months to build up
your make up bag but it will
be worth it. Quality make up
lasts longer and you shouldn’t
have to use so much.
Buy decent single brushes
for applying powders to get
an even look. Use sponges
to apply foundation for
smoothness. Good lipstick
will only need applying once –
enough for that visit. Clumpfree mascara lets you flutter
your lashes feels good and
looks good. Ultimately this
will give you confidence.
Shopping at Sendsations
New jeans here cost around
£10 or under. Two t-shirts
at £8 or less. Or try the
secondhand rails. Here you
get jumpers, t-shirts, tops,
jeans, trousers, skirts and
dresses, even nightwear, all
£15 or under. All beautifully
washed and ironed. You may
be lucky with footwear and
pick up some £10 bargain
shoes. Sizes permitting.
FEMCORE IS THE
NEW FEMININITY
WORDS BY RUBY ABBISS
As Feminism becomes ever more popular in 21st century conversations, the term ‘femininity’
has changed. So much so, a new type of feminine dressing has evolved: Femcore.
Femininity is, and always has been, a
constantly evolving notion. Gender and
sexuality are viewed now more than ever
as a liquid form, similar to a spectrum, as
opposed to the black and white view we had in
yesteryears. However, even though attitudes
have progressed more in line with the modern
age, women are still struggling with the idea
they have to dress a certain way to be truly
considered ‘feminine’.
In the Jazz Age during the 1920’s, bobbed
haircuts and dropped waists were all the
rage as femininity took on an androgynous
approach. Fast forward to 1947 and Christian
Dior was telling women to re-lace their corsets
and wear full-figured dresses to keep in line
with his ‘New Look’ – the term used for the
new femininity of the time.
Since then, the Western world has lived
through a multitude of ‘femininities’ and
multiple waves of feminism. One would be led
to think that times have changed since the
20th Century, that women could wear what
they wanted and no longer fear judgement.
Nevertheless, women are still fighting for
equal rights. Feminist movements such as
‘Free the Nipple’ and ‘He for She’ have received
huge amounts of support from both women
and men globally, publicising the difficulties
women still face in society.
Perhaps it was this new wave of Feminism
that gave birth to Femcore. Or perhaps
it wasn’t? However, no one can deny the
change we have seen in the way women
dress. Femcore is the new term to define the
way women such as Phoebe Philo (creative
director of Céline) and Penny Martin
(editor-in-chief of The Gentlewoman) dress.
However, Philo was definitely the pioneer
of this form of expression. Laid-back, sexy,
whilst still taking itself seriously, Femcore
is the very definition of the women of our
age. Joe Toronka, celebrity stylist, believes
Femcore is directly linked to women wearing
the designs of other women, automatically
making them feel good: “women designing
sexy for women, rather than men designing
sexy for women.”
Essentially, it is the love child of the 1980s
power-suits, 1920s flapper dressing and a
huge dash of modernity.
Think smart with a hint of sexy. Rachel, from
HMP Send, describes her take on Femcore as:
“you dress this way because you are showing you
are about more than just what you look like.”
Being more than what you look like comprise
the building blocks you’ll need. Derived from
‘normcore’ - the term used to describe the
trend of wearing unpretentious, averagelooking clothes - Femcore brings out the
personality of the wearer just by allowing it
to shine through.
TYPICAL STYLE OF THE 1920s
How to do femcore?
This femininity doesn’t overbear the wearer,
nor does it even attempt to distract from their
personality, its true aim being to compliment.
“It is giving you more choice, it’s not like that
old secretary look,” explains Rachel.
A typical outfit for a woman embracing
Femcore is a trouser suit with a crisp white
shirt. Styling is key: leave behind those 1980s
shoulder pads and style your shirt as you like.
Unbuttoned just enough to allow a flash of a
lacy (obviously not underwired) bra; untuck
the button-hole half of the shirt and allow it
to hang free or even just wear your shirt with a
gorgeous neck-tie, either way there is room for
creativity and expression.
This was Philo’s exact aim when designing
for Céline. She refers to her collections as “a
wardrobe, a practical ABC of clothes” which,
by definition, makes it easier for women to
dress themselves for the complexity of life.
And ultimately, this is what Femcore is all about:
expression. Letting go of what society, fashion
journalists and any other person tells you to
wear and dressing for the modern, beautiful
woman you are is the epitome of this movement.
15
FASHION
PEOPLE
Deborah Bee is the director of Creative
Marketing for London luxury store Harrods.
She is responsible for store ‘themes’ and is
Editor-in-Chief of all in-house publications.
She studied fashion journalism at Central
Saint Martins and has reported on
fashion for The Guardian and The Daily
Telegraph. She worked on British Vogue
and has edited several magazines including
Scene and Nova.
What was the first article you wrote?
“My first published article took me a week
to write…and was rubbish!” Now the hardest
part of my job is finding good writers.
Explain your job and what you are
responsible for?
I’ve been Editor-in-Chief of Harrods publishing
for several years and my remit now includes
a wider influence over all written and visual
communications, including a number of media
and digital platforms, from Apps to content for
iPads and in-store plasma screens. I come up
with the overall creative tone of “voice” for the
store. I head up a publishing team of around
37. We create 10 monthly fashion/lifestyle
titles, 2 interior titles, 2 men’s magazines, 2
travel journals and a fine jewellery magazine.
What is the most fashion-focussed part
of your job?
Harrods magazine is the “edgiest” marketing
tool that the store has. It’s funded by
advertising. The inside front cover alone
would cost many thousands of pounds to
place an advert.
What makes Harrods unique?
We don’t just sell expensive gifts, our
customers want integrity…something
unique. They are always interested in
knowing where something was made, who
by, how long. The magazine is not so much
about selling as to inspire and inform. We
get customers coming in with a page from
the magazine wanting that very dress, or an
entire set of table wear. They love beautiful
things but quality is vital.
How do you put your own stamp on
Harrods magazines?
I have a list of words that I don’t allow to be
used in print such as “stunning” “nice” or
“exquisite”. We call them empty adjectives
– words that don’t really mean anything.
If something is stunning – what makes it
stunning? Write that instead. Another rule
is that they never begin a feature about a
brand with the brand name. You have to be
more inventive.
16
What is the most interesting fact
about Harrods?
It is like an iceberg. There are 8 floors above
ground and 7 floors beneath it! It was the first
store to have escalators in the world. When
ladies first used the escalators they were
given a stiff drink at the top – to recover
themselves. That doesn’t happen now.
How do you start to come up with ideas
for issues for Harrods magazine?
Each issue contains an interview with
a leading actress or celebrity. The most
interesting person I’ve met recently is Will I
Am. When he got to the studio for the fasion
shoot he started riding around the set on a
bicycle. He was so full of energy. Exactly like
he is on TV.”
*Deborah came in to HMP Send and told us
about her life and work. Harrods also gifted
many inspiring magazines to our project. For
this we’d like to say “Thank you!”
INTERVIEWS BY AMIE AND CHLOE
“To feel good
about yourself is
one key to success
and positive
thinking also
takes you there.”
Joe Toronka is a professional creative
fashion stylist and has been doing this for 15
years. Joe also teaches at London College of
Fashion. He works with celebrity clients all
over the world including in the USA.
Carl Stanley is a professional hair and make
up artist with over 20 years experience
working with celebrities including Katie Price
and Lauren Goodwell, to name just a few.
Carl’s memoir ‘Kiss and Make Up’ is out now.
What’s the best part of your job?
Teaching at London College of Fashion is very
rewarding. I also do music videos and red
carpet events, which are a lot of fun.
What’s the most important thing to you?
Knowledge. Developing knowledge is key.
What don’t you like about your job?
I don’t like the celebrity bullshit, the people
around celebrities cause most of it.
What does it take to be a stylist?
You have a passion for fashion, which is
dynamic and so must keep up with the changes
and be organised.You also need a strong
personality to deal with people’s egos.
How and why did you become a stylist?
I worked as a PR and worked my way up.
Honestly, I started doing styling because I
enjoy the creative side. As for the teaching…
I like to pass on knowledge.
Why did you decide to come here to
HMP Send today?
Curiosity. I wanted to see how much this
project empowered the women. Positivity is
one way to allow yourself a chance. To feel
good about yourself is one key to success and
positive thinking also takes you there.
Who has been your most entertaining client?
Jerry Hall (model and former wife of Mick
Jagger). She’s super glamorous and funny.
She exaggerates her Texan accent and is very
camp – like a Drag Queen!
You’ve also worked with Margaret Thatcher?
I started working with her through a friend.
She was a photographer and lucky for me,
Mrs Thatcher just happened to like me and I
stayed working with her.
17
Who is most annoying to work with?
Sophie Anderton, the model and reality TV star.
She’s such a drama queen! One time she arrived
6 hours late for a shoot. She’s very rude and not
pleasant to work with. TOWIE’s Lauren Goodger
and Katie Price are also a pain to work with.
How do you keep calm with people who are
quite hard to work with?
If people are really vile, I stick my make-up
brushes in my mouth when they’ve got their
eyes closed.
How does it feel coming to HMP Send
and doing the girls’ make-up?
Coming to the prison and doing make up is no
different from working with famous people.
Your job as a make-up artist is to relax people,
make people feel comfortable. THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
WHAT IS YOUR PASSION?
WORDS BY EMMA
I asked the question “what is your passion?” because as I was looking around
at the women and staff here at HMP Send and wondering “what are they
passionate about?” and “What drives them every day?”
Passion [noun]
· [countable, uncountable] a very
strong feeling of love, hatred, anger,
enthusiasm, etc. She argued her case
with considerable passion. Passions were
running high at the meeting.
· [singular] (formal) a state of being very
angry synonym rage. She flies into a
passion if anyone even mentions his
name.
· [uncountable] passion (for somebody) a
very strong feeling of sexual love. His
passion for her made him blind to
everything else.
· [countable] passion (for something) a
very strong feeling of liking something; a
hobby, an activity, etc. that you like very
much. The English have a passion for
gardens. Music is a passion with him.
The most enjoyable part of asking everyone
here the question was being given a chance
to share in their enthusiasm! I got the chance
to see each person I ask glow and their eyes
sparkle a little as they told me about their
passion. They became very animated and
excited and it made me smile while I listened
to their answer. From asking one simple
question I got drawn into a long conversation
about their chosen subject.
“Getting to produce
something from a blank bit
of fabric gives me sense of
pride in my achievement.”
I found with most of the people I asked, four
subjects came up a lot. And these were:
‘family’ and ‘children’, and also ‘reading’
and ‘cooking’. I was surprised by some very
unexpected answers.
I have chosen a few of my favourite ‘what
is your passion’ answers to share with you,
together with quotes from people I asked.
CW: Philosophy
It gets your mind going. It asks questions and
doesn’t take anything for granted. It’s how we
should be in this day and age. Philosophy can
be applied to every aspect of life.
18
RB: Cooking
It’s because I cook with love. I want people to
enjoy what I’m cooking and I can experiment
with flavours. I get the time to go into my own
world when I’m cooking and for me it’s also
very therapeutic.
SB: Tour de France
I love the Tour de France cycling race. I
love watching it on TV. The atmosphere is
amazing. The different riders and what they
go through to win that race. Five hours riding
and that’s a short stage!
KS: Reading
Reading takes me to another place. It’s a form
of escapism for me. I’ll read anything but I’m
really into fantasy (zombie) books. For me it’s
also a way to gain knowledge and it helps me
to relax.
DL: Recycling
It’s about making something out of nothing.
Re-using anything and everything. Seeing
what you can achieve for free.
ME: Sewing
I asked myself the same question I had asked
other people and for me it’s sewing in all
forms. Getting to produce something from a
blank bit of fabric gives me sense of pride in
my achievement.
I want all of you who I didn’t get to ask to
put the question to yourself – what are you
passionate about?
Images courtesy of Koestler Trust
A ‘CUSHIE’
IDEA
WORDS BY EMMA
Part of the joy of working in
textiles is that our tutor, Jane,
likes to encourage us to take
part in the “Koestler Awards”
every year. Up until now, we
have declined.
This year however when the subject came up
again, the six of us looked at each other and
said: “yes”! We sat down with Jane and had
a discussion first about what form the piece
would take, then whether we were going to do
a patchwork quilt, wall hanging or cushions?
As a collective we all said, ‘we’d like to do
cushions.’ The next stage was to work out what
we all wanted to do! We batted around a few
ideas, then the signs of the zodiac came up
and we jumped on it…
This was a project we could all get involved in,
and it could be split six ways. We were going
to do two cushions each. We looked at the
different versions of styles of signs and decided
on one that was recognisable as the signs of
the zodiac. Twelve zodiac signs later, our tutor
suggested that we make our cushions from
recycled jeans. We loved the idea. When it
came down to who was going to do which sign,
luckily, we all knew the two signs we wanted to
do and there weren’t any arguments. The good
thing about doing our own cushions is that we
get to put our own individual stamp on them.
So we all designed our cushions and then we
all made our patterns and off we went. Some
of us did hand embroidery. Some used the
felting machine. Others used sequins and
‘Angelina’ fibres (loose, fine fibres gathered
and sewn into the design). When the front of
the cushions were done, our tutor suggested
that the cushions be fully piped to give them
a more luxurious look. We all rolled our eyes
19
because we all hate piping. One of the women
very kindly offered to pipe all 12 cushions and
that took a large portion of the stress out of
finishing the cushions. Once the piping was
done and the backs put on and filled with
cushion pads, we all stood back and admired
our handy work.
We were all very pleased with the finished
product. You could see each person’s individual
touches to their own cushion. We couldn’t stop
looking at them. Anyone who saw them first
looked for their own sign and then wanted
them. All we have got to do now is see how well
they do in the competition; and if anyone falls
in love with them and wants to buy them. I know
we each got a lot from making them and are
very proud of our achievement.
Joining textiles requires you to initially make
an application which must be approved by
your offender supervisor within Offender
Management Unit (OMU – responsible for
prisoners sentencing calculations, release
dates, ROTL etc) who will assess your needs
and suitability and forward recommendations
on to the activity board.
WHERE
YOU LEAST
EXPECT IT
26
27
KEEP OUT: THE CRIME
DIVERSION SCHEME
WORDS BY RACHEL
Keep Out is a Crime Diversion Scheme for girls, aged 13-17, who are at risk of entering the
Criminal Justice System. Girls from schools, pupil referral units, youth offending teams, family
intervention projects and police groups come to HMP Send where they spend a day working
with the prisoner team on workshops and victims consequences personal responsibility.
The prisoner team is made up of between
three and seven women and has to be flexible
to accommodate team members being
transferred, released or otherwise unavailable.
Applications are considered on a rolling basis.
At present, Keep Out is a part-time workplace,
running one-day interventions on Mondays
and Tuesdays, with Wednesdays one for team
training. Plans are in place to move to full time
in the next six months. The team will continue
to run one-day interventions and will introduce
a 6-week programme, aimed at higher risk
young women.
Groups travel from London, Surrey, Sussex,
Kent, Hampshire and Hertfordshire and their
day begins when they arrive at the gate and are
told their phones must remain on the minibus.
This is their first taste of prison life – giving up
precious possessions – and it gives them a
tiny sense of what life is like here.
Events currently take place in the visits hall
and, once the group is in the prison they make
their way there, under the watchful eye of
Keep Out Support Worker, Zoe.
If ROTL approved, a member of the prisoner
team can also collect the group from the
gate, and this gives them a chance to see how
the group behave before they arrive in the
visits hall. Often they have ideas about what
prisoners look like, wear and talk. Usually they
take the ROTL worker for a member of staff
and this is not corrected until the group and
the team are all together.
“We show young people
that their actions create
victims, that there are
consequences that follow
and that they, and only
they, are responsible for
those actions.”
28
When the girls discover that the Keep Out
Team are prisoners their reactions range from
shock (“but you look too nice”) to excitement
(“you’re really a prisoner?”)
Very, very occasionally a young person will
admit to being afraid but the team makes
every effort to reassure them, directly and
through our behaviour and during the Check-in
(a workshop about 30 minutes into the day)
girls will frequently say things like “I was
nervous at first but you’ve all been really nice
you’re all just normal people.”
“This is their first taste
of prison life – giving up
precious possessions – and
it gives them a tiny sense of
what life is like here.”
Obviously it’s lovely to be complimented this
way but the ‘reveal’ also serves a serious
purpose. Often, these young women think
‘people like me don’t go to prison’. They think
prisoners are harsh, tattooed maniacs or that
they can tell crimes by looking at us. The fact
that we’re ‘normal’ but we’re in prison means
that maybe it could happen to them, and if
they don’t want that they need to look at their
decision-making.
Decision-making is at the heart of what Keep
Out does. The team have all made mistakes.
We’re all paying for them. We’re not in a
position to lecture young people on what they
should do, and we don’t do that. What we do is
hold up a mirror – we show young people that
their actions create victims, that there are
consequences that follow their actions, and
that they, and only they, are responsible for
those actions. We strongly encourage them
to seek support and to feel empowered to
make good decisions for themselves and their
futures. We don’t tell them what to do. We tell
them, ‘its up to you’.
KeepOut achievements
Statistics 2013-14
• Maintained stable prisoner
team with the majority of the
team members during the year
working for KeepOut for longer
than 9 months.
Young People
• Increased bookings and achieved
annual target number of young
people participating in one-day
interventions.
• Encouraged and supported all
KeepOut team members who have
been selected to complete NVQ
Level 3 in Advice and Guidance
with St Giles Trust.
• Negotiated with the Prison a
Community Worker so the
KeepOut team members
attaining ROTL (Release On
Temporary Licence) status can
continue to work for KeepOut.
• Established effective working
together partnership with St
Giles Trust and the Prison.
• Commenced the process of
review and researching needs of
girls and young women who attend
KeepOut programmes.
29
• 64 groups brought young women
to participate in the one-day
interventions.
• 395 young women attended
one-day interventions.
Prisoners
• 10 female prisoners worked on
the scheme.
• 3 prisoners attained ROTL status.
• 3 prisoners successfully gained
parole and have been transferred
to Open prisons.
• 6 prisoners completed their
sentences and have been released.
• 5 prisoners completed lvel 3 Advice
and Guidance qualification with
St Giles Trust.
Information sessions
for profosssionals
• 4 information sessions have been
delivered by prisoner team and
staff to 38 professionals interested
in bringing young people to events.
For further information visit
www.crimediversionscheme.org.uk
YOU’VE GOT TO
HAVE FRIENDS
WORDS BY ISABEL CALABRIA
ILLUSTRATIONS BY TALISA PIGGOTT
Friends are good for the mind, body and soul;
and we women are great at it.
Dr Hannah Zeilig, social gerontologist, came
into to HMP Send to talk about her work. She
spends her time studying age and the effects
of aging in women; and more so, what age and
aging means within a social context.
During her fascinating talk, Dr Zeilig
mentioned that in one study that she had
carried out, she found that women tend
to age “better” because they formed more
effective and long lasting friendships. The
presence of friends actually contributed to
the psychological ageing process because
emotionally women would draw support from
each other. In contrast, men are less likely
to “open up” about emotions and feelings
and thus less likely to form long lasting
friendships, especially in old age.
This idea of friendship struck us and we
wanted to explore further how friends can
help with other situations - like prison.
Sometimes best friends turn up at the most
unexpected times and in the most unexpected
circumstances. Good friendships are certainly
evident throughout Send. Two friendships that
we couldn’t ignore within our magazine project
are Rachel and Elizabeth, and Shelon and
Charlotte. We decided to ask them how and
why having a good friend helps them cope.
How has having a close friend helped you in
the prison setting?
Rachel It has helped so much because it
is somebody to tell your troubles to. It is
someone who you know will always be there
and above all else in a place like this it is
someone who you can have a laugh with and
ultimately release tension. That close friend is
someone who you can truly be yourself around
in a place that limits that.
Elizabeth I have children so it’s someone who
I can talk to about my family and my home
life. I am going on home leave now so she is
someone who I can tell all about it when I get
back. She’s done more than just listen; she
has educated me in some ways and taught
me things that I didn’t know. She is someone
to have a laugh with; we have laughed and we
have cried. She just makes prison easier and
she lifts the mood. It helps to talk about prison
and the frustrations that come with it. It works
because we are both mindful of each other’s
sentences and we help each other.
Shelon For me, it helps every day. Sometimes
you can become fed up and emotionally down
and speaking to someone who is in the same
situation as you, can help to overcome that
feeling. Friendship is loyalty so when that
loyalty is broken, for me, I take it personally. If
that happens, I won’t talk to you. End of. If I call
you a friend, I take it seriously; we are in here
for a limited amount of time so that friendship
will carry on to the outside. It’s very important.
Charlotte It’s important to have friendship
because as hard as we say we are, you can’t do
your sentence without friends to talk to and to
listen to you. If you do find genuine friends in
jail, it’s special.
“Sometimes best friends turn
up at the most unexpected
times and in the most
unexpected circumstances.”
How would it be different if you didn’t have
that friend?
Rachel It would be so much worse. It would
make the whole process a lot more gruelling
not having a friend there to let it all out to.
Elizabeth I just feel like not having that friend
could make it all very lonely. Being alone could
make your sentence, no matter how long or
short, drag and feel like it is lasting a lifetime.
Shelon Personally in the start it would have
been really hard without a good friend but now
that I am nearing the end of my sentence it is
less important. In a women’s prison you make
friends and break up so that’s not something
that I want to go through over and over again.
I’m comfortable with my own company now. I
need to focus on different things, on getting
a job and getting out. It’s time for me to look
forward now.
Charlotte I think that it’s important not to
get too close to someone especially if their
sentence is shorter than yours. When that
happens they get out and no matter how
much they say they’ll stay in contact or visit
you it never works out like that, life gets in
31
the way. In prison a lot of people come and
go so sometimes, friendship is a delusion. It
might have been harder without friends but it
doesn’t bother me. It would be hard to not have
someone to talk to in times of need.
It truly is wonderful to see two people
supporting each other through some
difficult times but we know all too well that
not everyone is that lucky. In times of need
sometimes all it takes is a smile as you pass
each other, or a ‘how are you?’ at dinner. These
little things can change a person’s perspective
on the entire day. So when you have a spare
second, and you see someone sat alone
or looking sad, take a minute to ease their
tension, tell them a joke, listen to them or even
just ask if they’re okay.
The HMP Send guide
to being a good friend:
1 If you see someone has made an
effort with their appearance, tell
them how nice they look.
2 If it’s clear somebody is going for a
visit, wish them luck and offer your
kind wishes.
3 If you see someone who is having a
bad day, approach them and tell them
that everything is going to be okay.
Even if you don’t know what’s wrong,
sometimes that’s all we need to hear.
4 If you see someone who could use a
helping hand, offer it. They may not
accept but the offer could mean a
tremendous amount.
5 If you haven’t spoken to someone in a
while, let them know that you haven’t
forgotten about them and are still
there if they need you.
6 Smile. Smile at the officers, your
peers, your teachers and most
importantly take a second to look
in the mirror and smile at yourself.
Remind yourself that you are okay.
CARYN
FRANKLIN
Fashion expert, Caryn Franklin, MBE, came into HMP Send
to talk about her life as a style commentator for 34 years. The
broadcaster, writer, director and producer, has worked with
many major networks to produce TV shows, famously the
BBC Clothes Show which ran for 12 years until 1998.
Her interest in body and image politics and selfesteem has seen her travel to war zones, and
confronting politicians on mental health issues
related to fashion. Her role now is as a fashion
activist. Most recently co-founding All Walks
Beyond the Catwalk, which promotes diverse
beauty ideals. This is what she has to say.
“In the 1980’s it didn’t feel like we had the
trends conveyor belt we do today. Fashion
was a self-belief-system; we used it to say
something about ourselves to others.
Now that fashion is a money making vehicle
for big fashion industrialists, we’ve lost
the freedom to enjoy personal styling and
individuality. Capitalism and the conveyor
belt of trends has removed the freedom to
be confident about who we are. New fashion
trends often provoke approval seeking from
us all. “Have I done it right?” Will the fashion
‘juries’ love me or slate me? It’s all about “Style
steal”. Or, “she’s not wearing the right bag with
the right shoe and look at her nails!”
The celebrity fashion falsehood …that every
famous face wearing something fashionable
has bought it, when in fact they have been
given it to wear or there stylist has borrowed
it for them, puts ordinary women under more
pressure. Magazines are not working hard
enough to bolster self-esteem and promote
the products of their advertisers. There is
pressure on young women to buy something
new every week. Not because it’s a thing of
beauty or worth, but because the fast turn
over support the business. Primark has no
sell on value in second hand stores. I really
shouldn’t get so worked up about it…but I do.
Two of the most interesting people I’ve met
through my work was the actress, Eartha
Kitt, who I interviewed in character...what a
marvellous Diva, also the designer, Yves Saint
Laurent, was very memorable. He was very
humble, post-show, backstage.
Fashion designers I admire and have enjoyed
interviewing include Vivienne Westwood
because she doesn’t ‘edit’ herself – she says it
how it is and her designs are more complex in
their recognition of the importance of status
and signature. Donna Karan and Diane von
Furstenberg, both include realism in their
designs, they are empathic.
Jasper Conran always tells me he is a
dressmaker and I like that he is not looking
to shock...he does that with his costume
commissions for dance companies and
keeps it practical on the catwalk. Of course,
I also find designers who have a strong
visual statement like McQueen, and Galliano,
inspiring. They put on theatre with their
fashion shows to amplify the emotions we
experience around clothes. Designers who
push boundaries, like Professor Helen
Storey who has developed catalytic clothing
and cares about sustainability is crucial...
she’s been a mate for 35 years too so I’ve
watched her soar! My all time favourite
fashion people are founders of i-D Magazine,
Terry and Tricia Jones, because they care
about people. Terry gave me my first break.
32
When I started at The BBC Clothes Show,
we would put on fashion shows in shopping
malls and go into schools. At the time high
fashion was not accessible but the Clothes
Show changed all that. One of the highlights
of my career was taking six lorry loads of
second hand clothes to the former Yugoslavia
for the Bosnian refugees in a war zone. I can
remember the excitement of the teenage
boys in particular, sorting through the bales
of clothes, which had had any clothes they
possessed appropriated by the army. I saw
the power of clothes firsthand. Fashion is
something we take for granted so much.
“The fashion industry in
particular should recognise
the psychological impact of its
messaging upon the minds of
young women.”
I’ve spent my career deconstructing fashion.
I’m not slavish to fashion. I’m happy with me.
Fashion is about telling a story and clothes help
me to tell my story. Every brand must have a
story too...but it is contracted by advertisers to
sell kit...there is a difference and as long as we
know that our story is way more important we
can use fashion on our terms.
I set up All Walks Beyond the Catwalk with
co-founders Debra Borne and model Erin
O’Connor, to challenge the normative body
ideal promoted in fashion. We work with
designers, fashion students and colleges,
government and industry to question
the fashion industry’s dependence on
unachievable and limited body and beauty
ideals by respecting diversity. When even
models don’t look like models, what likeness
can real people find within themselves?
The fashion industry aims the product at
18-24 year olds but middle-aged women
have just as much money to spend. Age and
size diversity are crucial things to address.
Women’s bodies change and needs to be
reflected positively in fashion media. A lot of
designers don’t understand how to design
for a women’s body because they have only
trained on size 8 teenage forms.
Lack of diverse ethnicity is also an issue
fashion focuses on a white Western ideal.
The fashion industry in particular should
recognise the psychological impact of its
messaging upon the minds of young women
- and men - together with the unprecedented
amount of imagery we receive via digital
platforms. As women we can’t help but
compare ourselves with others.
The feminist writer, Susie Orbach, has
written in her 2009 book ‘Bodies’, that young
women see on average 2000-5000 images
every week! This would impact on a young
girl’s personal identity. Fashion has a huge
impact on young girls’ lives. Media sends out
messages to girls from an early age and they
are already internalised. I’ve got 2 daughters
and spend a lot of time telling them, we/
you are beautiful regardless of how you are
evaluated by the outside world. And even
more importantly – it’s about what you stand
for and what you achieve as a human being
that is way more important than your choice
of handbag.
I call myself a ‘body activist,’ and have
always worked in schools and college to
bring in a bit of ‘stealth feminism.’ Many
adverts send out the wrong messages,
even false messages and we just put up
with it. MP, Jo Swinson, taught me that
we need relatively few complaints to get
adverts removed or banned. There is too
much digital airbrushing. In many cases a
photo is doctored and you see falsification
within beauty adverts. She created proper
interventions and brought down oppressive
adverts. I liked that women got angry about
the ‘Beach Body Ready,’ campaign and tore
down images on the London tubes.
On behalf of the next generation of women, I
feel strongly that we must get more involved.
It’s a fact that 85% of ‘expert’ commentary in
newspapers and magazines and media comes
from men. If you were to dissect imagery in
the media of men and women you see how
many images of women as one-dimensional,
objectified, hypersexualised beings, ‘Page 3’
being an obvious example.
Fashion perpetuates “this is the way its
always been” so there can be no change. So
women feel like they can’t have an opinion and
they have to go without fashion for their size or
33
shape. Then there are the myths that there are
no decent models who are more than a size 10,
go round in circles. People who love fashion
are all shapes and sized and all skin colours.
We also need to challenge sustainability. We
need to go to big brands and challenge their
exports and the wages they pay workers. We
must know more about where clothes are
made. I recently went on a trip to Bangladesh
and visited families devastated by the Rana
Plaza tragedy. In some cases the entire middle
tier of the family - the wage earners - had been
wiped out. How can they say that fashion has
been democratized if there is someone over
the other side of the world who is enslaved?
This is not democracy. This is slavery.
It’s not all bad news. For 20 years fashion has
been involved in raising awareness of breast
cancer. Fashion can bring about positive
change. The developments and acceptance
of talking about cancer within women’s
magazines and raising funds for cancer could
not have happened without fashion. Fashion
has the power to ‘embed’ issues into culture.
Fashion is an amazing tool with a powerful
voice. We all read each other through clothes.
Fashion can be used as a healing tool, when
women want to enjoy their bodies again after
surgery, illness or depression. We want to
present our best selves. I’d like to see fashion
being used to send messages out about
diversity rather than using to objectify or
infantalise women.
What I say now to students is, it’s over to you…
you are the change. Change is good and good
change is even better.
Caryn’s fashion tips
Always have an opinion.
Be authentic.
Have ideas.
Be polite.
Be willing to be part of a team.
Encourage others to have great ideas.
Always keep a notebook on you.
Make lists then tick them off.
Do easy jobs first.
Always say ‘thank you’.
SPORTS LUXE
WORDS BY FRANCESCA, RACHEL AND ELIZABETH
Sports luxury. Two words
that don’t naturally sit
together? But this trend
is quickly becoming the
‘go-to’ look for accomplishing
an effortless and fashion
forward appearance.
Forget limiting them to the gym. Right now, it’s
all about taking your trainers out to the street
and wearing them with anything other than
active wear. Think vests, bomber jackets and
wedged high-top trainers for a wearable look
centred on athleticism.
From trackstars to rapstars, anyone and
everyone is embracing their inner athlete.
Most obviously Cara Delevigne, attending
the front row of fashion shows clad in yoga
pants and stilettos, she is part of the new
‘casualisation’ trend that a lot of celebs seem
to be championing.
The marriage of sports and fashion first
dates back to the 1920s when Coco Chanel
popularised a ‘relaxed’ look for women.
Creating jersey swimsuits introduced a new
look for females and the trend has been on
and off the catwalks ever since.
Emilio Pucci, a key Italian designer and
onetime ski champion (who hailed from Italian
aristocracy), came on to the sportswear scene
in the 1960s. Abstract ‘Op Art’, kaleidoscopic
colours, Psychedelic prints and medieval
heraldic banners inspired his popular athletic
designs and prints. The 1980s saw designers
Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren also embracing
leisurewear. Klein’s sportswear was
introduced, ranging from high-end to more
affordable lines, while Ralph Lauren’s “preppy
look”, including casual pique ‘polo’ shirts,
became hugely popular.
Back in the 1990s, donning a Juicy Couture
tracksuit, a pair of trainers and a baseball cap,
was far from glamorous. However, the way
we see sportswear has dramatically changed
these past few years. The trend has evolved
from simple, masculine tees and separates
by traditional sportswear brands (Adidas, Fila
and Nike), to high-end designers embracing
sportswear and incorporating it into main
collections with feminine twists, luxurious
fabrics and sharp tailoring.
From Tommy Hilfiger’s polo shirt and matching
tennis style skirt, to jewelled leg warmers by
Prada, sports luxe has featured on countless
designer catwalks. Alexander Wang, has
ushered in a trend known as ‘athleisure’, in
particular most recently showcased a number
of sports-inspired pieces including neon
scuba dresses; heeled trainers and sports
mesh fabrics interlaced with sleek tailoring.
At the last DKNY runway show, mesh fabrics
offered a youthful spin into 1950s inspired
midi dresses and skirts, worn with crop tops
or bomber jackets and ‘flatform’ trainers,
creating an athletic edge to the show.
At Topshop Unique, models were styled in
scuba dresses and retro-inspired cycling
jumpers with full-circle skirts, hot pants or
tailored trousers with a side stripe. Proving
that this sporty trend can be styled in any way;
feminine or androgynous, day or night- this
look can also be suited to everyone.
Stella McCartney’s collaboration with Adidas
began in 2004 with a short run of sportswear.
But it was the 2012 Olympics that saw her
design the athletic uniforms for the British
team that cemented her design career with
high performance sportswear. Stella’s twiceyearly collection is now a combination of sport
and style with bold branding, explosive colours
and fresh prints, redefining sportswear with
a brand new approach and blurring the lines
between high fashion and gym wear.
34
DKNY S/S 2015
Mary Katrantzou is a more recent high
fashion addition to Adidas. Her high
definition, blown up prints of details
including lace and rivets, give a futuristic
feel to tops, leggings and trainers.
Knowing how to style this trend is crucial in
keeping it fashionable. Sports luxe allows you
to blend key statement pieces with sporty
classics. Try taking a feminine lace pencil
skirt and juxtaposing it with a loose, casual
slogan tee, bomber jacket and trainers. Keep
jewellery simple and have make-up and hair
polished to keep the trend on the right side of
luxe (i.e. not lazy!)
Sports luxe pieces are known for being
wearable with a mix of lightweight fabrics and
contrasting textures. The key is in the detail
with this trend- look for perforated fabrics,
laser cut, neoprene and jersey that give a
loose fit, androgynous, oversized shape.
Sportswear is accessible, contemporary and
comfortable. And in today’s world, what is
comfort if not a luxury?
37
DESIGNING
FOR THE
WOMAN MEN
WANT TO BE?
Exploring how and why
when creating womenswear,
a designer’s gender will
play a great role in their
creative aesthetic.
Being a male student at London College of
Fashion (LCF) - often dubbed the ‘London
College of Females’ by other London
universities - is tricky and yet, could fast
track my entry ticket into the industry.
As one of five guys on a course of nearly
sixty studying fashion journalism, there
are immediate assumptions made about
you - your personality, your sexuality not to mention the occasional misused
gender pronoun. However as fashion has
been traditionally thought of as a female
dominated industry, I couldn’t ask for better
training as a man entering a woman’s world.
At least, I thought it was a woman’s world.
Fashion design courses at LCF have shocking
ratios of male-to-female students. Over 70%
of fashion graduates are female. However,
when it comes to comparing demographics
within institutions training up fashion
designers, and the designers working within
the fashion industry, there’s an anomaly.
Sure, there are lots of women working within
the $1 trillion dollar industry (according to
website, Business of Fashion) but most CEOs,
creative directors, MDs and brand executives
are men. At Louis Vuitton and Kering those
in charge are men-in-suits. In truth, very few
women become outright fashion stars in their
own right. Looking at next generation designers
emerging fast and furious into the field
we’ve got Christopher Kane, J.W. Anderson,
Alexander Wang, Olivier Rousteing, Joseph
Altuzurra and countless other creatives who
are men, most of whom design for women. They join more established players, men like
Karl Lagerfeld, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger,
Tom Ford, Karl Lagerfeld and Marc Jacobs,
who have dominated the industry for years.
Men who are famous for spectacular runway
shows, which are exhibitions of pure fantasy
and imagination. Think Gianni Versace and
his supermodels. Or, Karl Lagerfeld and his
front row line up of celebrities. As opposed
to designers like Stella McCartney, Victoria
Beckham, Phoebe Philo and Miuccia Prada,
who arguably put on pragmatic displays of
practicality - female empowerment through
modernism and realism? Of course, where would womenswear be
without women? Coco Chanel is arguably
the most well known name in fashion and
certainly amongst the most influential
fashion icons of the 20th century. Her
groundbreaking simplicity of style
rescued women from impractical fashions
championed by male designers. Chanel
challenged and upped the game. An antimale designer to a point, lambasting the
objectification of women through such items
as corsets and delivering a look that would put
women on the same stage as men - a uniform
of empowerment for the modern woman.
But the battle isn’t over. The modern dilemma,
swept up by social media, globalism and the
internet, sees the fashion press (and media in
general), loving a great show. The illustrious
and sometimes utterly ridiculous garments
produced by male designers provide just that.
Interestingly, only a few female designers
work on such a scale of grandeur, Vivienne
Westwood and Sarah Burton for example.
Yet, despite the spectacle and glitz of their
runway shows, these showy male designers
find their garments fall short when it comes
to actually being worn; which is kind of the end
goal of fashion design, right? The very same
thing that made Chanel’s influence so potent
is now the poison that keeps female designers
out of the zeitgeist. The biggest difference for
most in this realm of practicality vs. fantasy
finds its origins in the simple fact that the men
38
01
02
who are designing for women don’t wear the
clothing. Joe Toronka, a leading fashion and
celebrity stylist, believes this is the inherent
vice for male designers; “Since they don’t
wear it, they don’t feel it,” says the guy who
has dressed the entire Kardashian family.
How could a designer possibly make the
most comfortable and practical clothing for
a woman if they haven’t experienced wearing
clothing as a woman?
03
04
01. VERSACE A/W 2015
02. CHANEL COUTURE SHOW A/W 2011
03. CELINE A/W 2015
04. LANVIN A/W 2015
And it’s this that could be a driving force
behind why male designers for womenswear
mostly work in the realm of fantasy. Toronka
believes however that female designers
working in this world of the imaginary have
an inherent advantage over their male
counterparts. “Take Donatella Versace for
example,” he says. “She sells high-octane
sex! But at the same time, women wearing
clothing she’s designed won’t have the same
sort of problems when actually wearing the
clothing… something like the clothing not
pinching them when they sit down.” These
seemingly simple issues have a huge impact
with clients willing to pay big bucks for the
flashbulb inducing gowns. When all women
understand the power of practical, not simply
‘wow’ factor, Toronka believes that true and
meaningful influence in fashion is achieved.
When it comes to ‘reality’, Phoebe Philo, the
designer behind the breakout resurgence of
French ready-to-wear luxury brand Céline is a paragon of what could be deemed a realist,
practical approach to fashion design; as yet
unachieved by the bulk of men designing for
women. Philo’s cool, sleek, minimal design
has arguably set the trend in womenswear
since her tenure as creative director at
Céline began in 2008. An exercise in minimal
technique across all aspects of the creative
output of Céline landed Philo a listing amongst
the hugely influential, US magazine, Time’s
100 most influential people in 2014. It’s not
difficult to see why. The Céline Chic aesthetic
has utterly dominated fashion over the past
few years, etching its sleek silhouette over
catwalks and casting a tonal glow across every
high street shop from Primark to Topshop.
Phoebe Philo’s enduring and practical
aesthetic has earned her influence beyond
measure in the fashion industry. But
mentioning her name to someone on the street
might garner a raised eyebrow or a nervous ‘I
39
don’t know who that is but I’m going to
pretend I do’ affirmative nod. Granted,
Phoebe’s influence on the industry is a
relatively new phenomenon but is arguably
just as powerful. And yet her name is far less
a household name than say, Tom Ford. That Ford or Marc Jacobs somehow hold
more notoriety and perceived power over
the industry than Philo, despite her influential
aesthetic being overwhelmingly more
prevalent in recent years, begs the question:
Is it because she is a woman?
Christopher Bailey, Creative Director at
Burberry, has achieved a level of notoriety
unanimous with quintessential British style. Bailey is well situated in the fashion industry
and beyond; meanwhile names like Philo go
largely unnoticed in the broader zeitgeist. Does the media just not like female designers?
As a woman at the very top of the fashion
Press, is Anna Wintour not doing enough to
champion women designers to the public?
There are myriad of reasons why this might be
the case. Superbrands who provide magazine
advertising, still tend to have male designers
at their helm. But one thing can be gleaned
from this; despite fashion being perceived as
a female industry, it suffers the same diversity
problem as nearly every other, and that’s
gender inequality at the top.
They say that men in womenswear are
designing for the women they want to be.
Take, Albert Elbaz, designer at Lanvin,
who claims to design for women as if he
was a woman. Perhaps I, as a male in fashion
journalism (perhaps one of the only sectors
that is decidedly female led), I too should be
writing for the woman I want to be; championing
those women who design for women.
Women need and want different things from
their clothes. This includes wearing them to
transform into the superwoman they want
to be (something male designers can excel
in). But when it comes to the practical, it
falls down to women designers. It’s they who
seem to understand fashion shouldn’t always
be an escape although it often doubles as a
suit of armour strengthening, not masking.
Perhaps it’s true to say that female designers
dominate in one thing: championing women,
faults and all. THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
HATE PINK?
LOVE PINK?
WORDS BY AKILA
I hate pink - not any old pink and not all pinks - but ‘Barbie’ pink. Why?
Because society and especially toy manufacturers seem to assume that all girls
are crazy for bubblegum pink. NO! Girls like all sorts of colours.
If I asked my daughter what is her favourite
colour, today she would say blue…and
tomorrow she would say purple. I am so glad
- and relieved - that she hasn’t been held
hostage to the pink parade and when she is
older if she chooses pink, I will be okay (well,
she will tell me to be okay, and I will be okay!)
Brown? Oh yes, well, no, I don’t like brown
on me. Not all browns just tan – yuk, yuk – it
looks awful on me, but on paler skins it looks
brilliant. Yet I can manage to carry chocolate
brown off (yeah!)
Perhaps what I’m saying is this is all about the
hue of colour. What shades suit you may not
suit the person next to you.
Consciously or subconsciously, we do react
to colour: the colour of clothes; the colour of
skin, be it black, brown, white or orange in the
vein of TOWIE; the colour of hair and the colour
of lipstick. We mutter to ourselves when we
see someone wearing an item of clothing that
we like; and we equally - and quickly - react in
horror when we see something we don’t like on
a person.
We are judging all the time, harshly, kindly
and sometimes in envy (yes, green with envy).
We judge, categorise and fix someone’s
identity based on the colour of clothing. We
make assumptions when we look at people.
What do you think we are doing when we look
at Goths, Punks or Hippies?
Coming to prison has fixed our identity. It is a
very tough identity to live with, and to move
forward from, but it can be done. It’s a label
that we will always carry with us, it may fade
but it will never be forgotten. The colours of
the buildings, the cells, the landscape and
the clothes we wear all contribute to the
overall experience.
Pink: With the passion of red
and the innocence of white,
pink is a pure representation
of love and tenderness.
I do think that the colours that we are made
to wear in prison does affect how we feel
about those colours. If you are made to wear a
certain colour you may not ever want wear that
colour ever again (and you may shudder every
time you see it). We all know someone who has
been forever put off a colour because of the
school uniform they were forced to wear and
now are passionate about hating that colour
and never wearing it again, or rather that
particular shade!
Our emotional relationship with colour may
mean that when we leave prison we will be
forever ‘traumatised’ never to wear that
colour, but one thing is for sure, those colours
will live on in our subconscious forever more
and anytime we see that colour we will be
transported straight back to our time in prison.
Prison issue clothing is grey, drab and arguably
40
demoralising. Who chose that colour and
did they consciously choose such a dull and
tedious colour to accentuate the experience
of prison?
I never really had an issue with grey before but
it dominates the visual landscape and when I
see, it my heart simply sighs. Maybe in a few
years’ time I will have no reaction to this pale
shade of grey… only time will tell.
Grey is the main colour. The other dominant
colours here are the colours of the work
areas: bright green, burgundy with bits of
grey (grey again) for gardens and the cleaning
crew; and whites for working in kitchens.
Other work colours that punctuate our
visual landscape are: black for hairdressing;
turquoise and navy for beauty; sky blue for
Keep Out; canary yellow for the gym; sea
green for the Peer mentors; purple for the
Safer Custody representatives and red for
the Insider Representatives.
A myriad of colours all sparkling reactions.
So anyone looking at us would immediately
be able to know where we work just by
understanding the colour of our clothes.
Our identity is fixed.
Have I been traumatised by pale grey?
Probably. Maybe in future when I see pale
grey with sparkles I will feel and say, “YEAH,
I really like that and maybe that’s what I need,
some sparkle and glitter with a colour that I
hate (or just dislike?) and I’ll no longer go
pull a face!”
WAYS TO COPE WITH
MENTAL HEALTH
WORDS BY CHARLOTTE
Not been wanting to get out of bed lately? Making excuses not to
go out? Feeling blue when the sun is shining bright? One prisoner,
who recognises the symptoms of depression, offers advice and help.
1 Get out of bed. It makes you feel worse
just laying there. Only go to your bed when
you want to sleep at nighttime so you can
regulate a sleeping pattern.
It’s easy to ignore what are the common signs
of depression. There are also many other
forms of mental health that people deal with
daily. These range from Bi-polar, PTSD (post
traumatic stress disorder) to personality
disorders. There are plenty of ways you can try
to help yourself and there is help and support
available from professionals who know what
you are going through.
2 Smile! No matter how you feel. It may
sound silly now, but it really does work.
3 Don’t keep yourself locked away. Set
yourself some time out of your room.
Please remember to see a doctor if your
mental health deteriorates or if your ‘blue
day’ persists. And never feel ashamed to
speak out. Mental health problems are more
common than you think. Here are my tips for a
rainy day. I hope these will help you.
4 Phone relatives
5 Write letters
6 Go and see friends.
7 Treat yourself, or at least plan to. Knowing
you’ll be buying a little choccy bar or having
a pamper in your room should lift your
spirits. And yes, you can have a pamper
session in your room by having a foot soak
in your bowl, steaming your face, or maybe
even taking better care of your make-up!
For more details/information contact the HMP
Send healthcare manager Julie Fletcher or
mental health nurse Louise Costello.
41
BEAUTY, AGEING
AND SKINCARE
WORDS BY DR HANNAH ZEILIG
I am a social gerontologist, which means I study age and ageing. We live in an era that is
historically unprecedented. Britain has an ageing population - as does Europe. We are in the
process of undergoing a demographic transition which means that there are now more people
aged 60 and over in the UK than under 18. In simple terms our world is turning steadily grey.
Fine Lines Study
I have just completed a study examining
anti-ageing skin care campaigns called
“Fine Lines”. This investigates cosmetic
advertising and the ‘perceptions’ of ageing
beauty. I studied cultural perceptions of
age, by analysing language and imagery
in fashion magazines to reflect the pre
and post Botox™ era. One finding is that
cosmetic companies are advertising their
products with increasing intensity.
There is certainly greater cultural tolerance
for an older man who is likely to be
considered attractive for longer than his
female counterpart. Today’s consumers are
presented with what appears to be ‘choices’
about how they age. Ageing is presented as if it
is ‘negotiable’. “You’d think that the difficulties
of getting old are only skin deep, a matter of
hair transplants and face lifts, and boob jobs
and botox.” Said Tom Shakespeare in his BBC
Radio 3 programme exploring ageing.
Changes In Anti-Ageing ‘Speak’
Above all, the vocabulary has become wider and
more inventive, drawing on a range of disciplines
from the Earth sciences - and even geology.
I would argue…shouldn’t the changes
occurring to other parts of our body – such as
our brains – be far more important?
The Grey Pound
Filmmakers have already noticed population
ageing. Movies such as The King’s Speech
(2010) marked a watershed moment for
analysts of ticket sales when it became
apparent that the audience was mostly
composed of people over 60.
“Ageing is life itself.
And yet at some point,
many of us hide our ages and
disguise signs of ageing.”
How Old Is ‘Old’?
If our age is a numerical description or index,
then ageing refers to the process by which
we negotiate the passage of time. Ageing is
life itself. And yet at some point, many of us
hide our ages and disguise signs of ageing. I
wonder when this is? Age 6? Or 16? Or even
26? Perhaps around 36?
42
Dr Zeiligs Top 5 Face Creams
No7 Protect & Perfect Intense Day Cream SPF 15 £24/50ml, Boots
Reasonably priced and thoroughly
researched. It has a light texture,
absorbs easily and offers effective
sunscreen protection.
Neal’s Yard Frankincense Nourishing
Cream £27.50/50g, Neal›s Yard
Neal’s Yard / Waitrose
A rich moisturiser that smells
wonderful. I often use during winter
months but never in summer.
Sudocrem £4.50/400g, ASDA/chemists
Most effective when applied to
troublesome areas of the skin, including
spots. Slightly medicated and quite
heavy so may not suit all skin types.
Diprobase £7.90/500g, Chemists
An amazing moisturizer. I first
encountered this when my daughter
was prescribed it for her eczema. I
now use it routinely all over my body,
including my face.
Face by REN Clean Skincare Rose 012
Moisture Defence Oil 30ml £42/50ml
Department stores
Not a daily moisturiser but very
effective if your skin is feeling dry or at
night. Expensive but only needs to be
used sparingly. Smells wonderful.
BRINGING OUTSIDE
BEAUTY IN
WORDS BY PROFESSIONAL MAKE-UP ARTIST, CARL STANLEY
I was asked what four items (the allowed amount outworkers can keep in their locker along
with a 50ml bottle of perfume) to recommend. Here are my make-up ‘must-haves’.
My make-up ‘must-haves’ would be CC Cream,
mascara, lipstick and blusher.
Here are my recommendations for all budgets
and all skin tones:
Why CC Cream?
‘CC’ stands for ‘colour corrector’. It evens out
skin tone and disguises blemishes as well
as moisturizing. So a CC Cream is a fantastic
three-in-one product.
SAVING THE PENNIES
Why mascara?
Not only does mascara instantly ‘open’ your
eyes, but it can also double-up as eyeliner
by smudging it along your lash-line using a
cotton-bud.
Why lipstick?
Because there is nothing quicker than a slick
lipstick to lift your spirits and make you feel
sexier!
Outworker, Elizabeth, reveals her
chosen 4 items and favourite perfume.
Dark skin tones
1 Sleek MakeUp CC Cream
2 L’Oréal Voluminous Million Lashes Excess
3 Revlon ColorBurst Lacquer Balm
4 Sleek Crème to Powder Blush
1 Mac matte bronzer
Light skin tones
1 Max Factor Colour Correcting Cream SPF10
2 Rimmel London ScandalEyes
Xxtreme Mascara
3 Rimmel Kate Lasting Finish Lipstick
4 Maybelline Dream Lumi Touch Blusher
4 Bobbi Brown blusher brush
SPLASHING THE CASH
Cream blusher?
Well, blusher instantly brightens your face,
and as cream blushers are applied with fingers
there’s no need for a blusher brush!
Your make-up essentials
Dark skin tones
1 Black Up CC Cream Multi-Action
2 IMAN Volumize Mascara
3 Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Volupte Lipstick
4 NARS The Multiple Multi-Purpose Stick
Light skin tones
1 Erborian CC Crème HD
2 DIOR DIORSHOW Backstage Mascara
3 NARS Audacious Lipstick
4 Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow
Sheer Colour Stick
43
2 Rimmel ‘Go Colossal’ black mascara
3 Mac Giambattista Valli lipstick
+ Narciso Rodriguez eau de toilette
HOW MAKE-UP
MAKES YOU FEEL
WORDS BY ELLA
Make-up to many can be a mask. It can be an
escape for those who don’t like themselves.
Or it can be a way to exaggerate your beauty.
I have used make-up as a mask in the past,
when I used it to sell myself to fund a heroin
habit. I don’t ever intend to return to that life…
but this hasn’t put me off using make up.
Now I like to use make- up very subtly to
exaggerate my beauty. I am currently a smoker
looking for ways to give up. However, I haven’t
used any for a while due to my small budget.
“I wouldn’t wear
it everyday but
sometimes it’s good to
boost your confidence
and self-esteem.
A lot of people do
use it to mask their
flaws but I feel my
relationship with
make-up is mainly
positive. I agree too
many people however
use it as a mask.”
Personally? I’d like a make-up ‘makeover’
as I currently don’t feel beautiful…just
relatively pretty. A makeover would help
me feel beautified. The question I ask you
is whether make-up is something that can
help us escape hell for a few hours or reach
into heaven? What is it to you? A mask? An
escape? Or a path to find yourself?
Here’s what my friends told me about how
they feel about make-up.
“I think it brings
out your personality
and makes you glow.
It also boosts your
appearance and
makes you feel good
for special occasions.
“I don’t like it as I
don’t think it suits
me and I don’t want
to hide my natural
beauty behind a
mask. I might wear
a bit of mascara every
now and again but
nothing else.
I use it to enhance
my beauty and feel
my relationship is
mainly positive. ”
I don’t really have
a relationship with
make-up in or out
of prison.”
44
“I put it on to
improve my mood
because prison is
depressing. I feel it
improves my beauty
and on the outside
I’d never leave home
without my make-up.
Using make-up
makes prison less like
the police cells which
seem so unnatural
and intimidating.
It makes the days
seem brighter and
more positive.”
“I have a very close
relationship with my
make-up. I love
to wear it because
it makes me feel
confident.”
45
THE LOWDOWN
ON EYEBROWS
WORDS BY CAMILLA GEE
Eyebrows have grown in the past few years and we have Cara Delevingne and her bushy brows
to thank for that. Much like your hairstyle, eyebrows depend of your face shape. Whether your
face is oval, round, diamond, square or heart, use this guide to find your perfect eyebrows.
OVAL
Ovals tend to have a face that gracefully
tapers towards the chin with often a wider
forehead and prominent cheekbones.
Generally a soft angled eyebrow would
most suit this face shape.
ROUND
The round face generally measures the same
width and length, widest being at the cheeks.
One way to make the face appear more oval is
to arch the brow slightly. The arch will define
the cheekbones and in this case a higher arch
is flattering.
HEART
The face of a heart shape will strongly taper
towards the chin, with the chin being pointy.
For best results, use a rounded arch for the
brow as this will help soften the chinline.
LONG
With a long face shape, you would see
elongated features from the forehead to the
chin. To make the face appear shorter, the
solution is a flat eyebrow. Its horizontal line
would make the face seem more petite with
less elongation.
SQUARE
Cheekbones the width of the forehead. The
jawline being a prominent feature. A soft
round brow is the way to go, however don’t go
completely round, you don’t want eyebrows to
look like rainbows.
DIAMOND
As for the diamond, this face shape will be
very angular and particularly widest at the
temples. Although this face shape is quite
uncommon, similar to the heart shape, a
rounded arch brow will help soften the
angled forehead.
46
BLACK AND
BEAUTIFUL
WORDS BY HANNA OLLIVIER DE LETH
Despite the notable increase in more ethnically diverse models on the fashion runways,
make-up for darker skin tones remains a neglected industry. Women in HMP Send speak up.
“Whether or not we are in prison, make-up
really is important to us,” explains Andréia,
who is of Portuguese descent. “A lot of girls
here suffer from body dysmorphic disorder
(BDD). We feel uncomfortable when people tell
us we are beautiful because we don’t believe it
ourselves. Make-up has the power to change
that and make us feel better about ourselves.
This is why it is very important to us that there
are products available for everyone.”
With an average weekly wage of ten pounds,
the girls are able to order from a prison list of
products. This includes items ranging from
toothbrushes and toothpaste, to washing
powder. The list also covers various beauty
products as foundation and shampoo.
“When I used to go to HMP Holloway in London,
they always made sure to include different
kinds of foundation and hair care products
that suited different types of skin colour
and ethnic hair type,” says Suzie. “At HMP
Send however, they have numerous products
suitable for white people, but they hardly
target the black prisoners
“Whereas there are plenty of ethnic girls
asking for darker make-up and Afro hair
shampoo suitable to us, they have not yet
seemed to incorporate this into the list,”
she continues.
The issue is present and on a larger scale
outside of the prison environment. Despite
the large increase of British citizens from
ethnic minorities over the past few years –
who make up over 14% of the UK population
in May 2014 according to think-tank Policy
Exchange - many well known beauty
brands have failed to adjust their selection
of products.
While more expensive make-up brands such
as MAC and Nars are the first to incorporate
darker shades into their collection, other
luxury brands as Chanel and Dior and
drugstore brands as L’Oréal and Maybelline,
are still behind.
“Make-up has the power
to change things and make
us feel better about ourselves.
This is why it is very
important to us that there
are products available
for everyone.”
“We do have a couple of shades appropriate
for medium skin tones, but we would not be
able to cater for African women for example,”
Emily Brennan, Chanel make-up artist in
Selfridges, confirms to me.
“The main reason for Chanel not including
darker tones is because, despite the growing
percentage of women with darker skins, they
feel their clientele in the UK would not be
large enough to make a profit,” Brennan says.
“In the United States the brand does have
a wider range of shades, however in the UK
they have decided not to launch these as yet,
which is purely a business decision rather
47
than an act of racism,” she elaborates. “If the
ethnic minorities in the UK continue to grow
the way they are now, I am sure both Chanel
as many other brands will start incorporating
darker colours in their collections very soon,”
she concludes.
Whilst there is no need for the prison to make
a profit on beauty products, HMP Send’s
Representative of the Black Minority Ethnics
(BME), April, believes there is a good chance
for black make-up to be added soon.
“As a representative, I have been able to talk
to the Head of Equality and Diversity about
issues that are true to us and influence our
wellbeing here. A lot of black women here want
to feel equally as beautiful as the white girls
and I think that if we phrase it well, talk in the
right way and bring the right arguments to the
table, we can definitely win them over!”
A DAY
IN THE
LIFE
WORDS BY
ELIZABETH AND
FRANCESCA LEE
ILLUSTRATIONS BY
DAVE JOHN
7:45am
Go to the main kitchen to
collect ingredients for the day.
Choice is limited so I have to be
creative, relying on my skills
as a mum as well as my NVQ in
professional cookery (gained
at Send). Today I’m cooking my
speciality of chicken fajitas, so
I collect chicken, wraps, salad
and cheese, as well as tuna,
bread and milk.
Elizabeth, is a
HMP Send prisoner
currently on ROTL.
6:30am
My alarm goes off. I pull back the
curtain and see what the weather
is like and spend a few moments
thinking what I have to do today.
6:40am
Breakfast. I try to eat healthily
and usually have green tea (£1.89
for 50 teabags), a banana (29p)
and prison issue cereal and milk.
8am
Putting the food on a trolley
I wheel it to the side gate where
I will collect it from later.
6:50am
Shower. I use Radox (£1.69) and
shampoo and conditioner from
the hair salon (£2.89 each).
8:05am
Heading back to the wing I wait for
the other prisoners to go to work.
Outworkers go out after free flow,
now I have about half an hour to
catch up on GMTV and Lorraine.
7am
Dry hair and put make up on- I use
Dermologica Barrier Repair and
Sheer Moisture Tint. The beauty
salon stocks Dermologica. As I
earn a little more money as an
outworker I can (just) afford to
invest in a few products. Avon
eyebrow pencil and eyebrow kit
in dark brown are an essential
for an Essex girl.
8:45am
‘Outworkers!’ shouts the officer,
and I run downstairs so as not
to keep them waiting. There are
between two and six of us who go
out each day but I’m the only one
waiting in the mess today.
Getting out of the main gate can
take up to 20 minutes, as there are
quite a few people and procedures
involved. If it all goes smoothly
I’m out by 9am. Outside the gate
I have a locker and am allowed a
few items that I am not allowed
inside e.g. make-up, perfume
and a phone. I’m not allowed to
take my phone to the mess but
I take the chance to apply some
mascara and perfume.
7:20am
Dress for a busy day in the staff
mess- maybe my HMP Send sky
blue vest and some leather look
leggings. I like to look fashionable
but need to think practically as
I’ll be cooking and cleaning and
it gets hot in the kitchen.
7:30am
Roll check
9:05am
Once in the mess, I put on
Kiss FM and prepare for the work
ahead (cleaning and mopping).
7:40am
Roll correct, and I leave
the wing for the day.
9:25am
I start cooking. I begin with the
chicken fajitas as these take the
longest. I also get ingredients
prepared for sandwiches and
salads that I will make to order.
48
11:30am
Service starts. On an average
day I serve approximately 40
customers. Today, the special
sells out and tuna melt toasties
are the second most popular dish.
2pm
Service comes to an end and
I take a breather for a coffee.
I cash up, clean down and update
the food safety log with the fridge
temperature and leftovers.
2:45pm
I lock up and make my way back
to the gate. Before I go in I have
a top up of perfume.
3pm
Back to my room to change into my
gym gear, then head to the gym.
4:30pm
Back to the wing for a quick
shower before roll check.
4:45pm
Roll check
4:55pm
Roll check… again!
5:05pm
Roll correct
5:30pm
Dinner
6:30pm
I might go to the library to get a
book or DVD, maybe sit outside if
the weather is ok, or walk some
laps around the resettlement unit.
7:45pm
Roll check
8:30pm
Roll check
9pm
Bedtime- another day done,
another closer to leaving.
Fashion journalism
student, Francesca
Lee, 19, is in her
second year studying
for a BA (Hons)
degree at LCF.
7:30am
Roll out of bed, sleepwalk straight
to the shower to wake me up.
8am
Slowly start getting ready for
uni- start with my make-up, with
my eyebrows usually taking up
the most time (every girl knows
the struggle). Blow dry my
hair- usually leaving it naturally
straight and decide what to wear
from the ridiculous amounts
of clothes I have stashed in my
wardrobe (sometimes strewn
across my bedroom floor).
9am
Meet my girls in the reception of
halls. Someone is always late so
we are usually left waiting.
9:05am
Cross the road and catch the
bus to uni, which should take
around 20 minutes, however
London traffic could say other
wise. (sometimes getting the
tube if we’re really late).
9:30am
Arrive at uni and go straight
into my Fashion Journalism
for Multiple Platforms lecture,
usually with coffee in hand that
we have picked up from Costa
on the way.
10:45am
“Tea and a wee” break –
usually consisting of nipping
to the canteen and grabbing a
green tea, sometimes (nearly
always) a flapjack.
11am
Fashion Journalism for
Multiple Platforms lectureacademic essay structure.
10pm
We all get on the tube and start
queuing at a club for the Tuesday
night student night. Usually just
scraping the £5 entry before 11pm.
12pm
Teeline shorthand lesson.
3am
Piling out of the club, one of us
manages to find our phones and
book an Uber taxi that picks us
up from wherever our phones
location is.
1:30pm
Lunch- depending on what’s on
offer in the canteen, I will either
choose a hot Panini (usually
roasted vegetable and mozzarella)
or go for some air and walk to
Sainsbury’s local on the corner.
3:30am
We order pizza (always pepperoni
and more often than not, a cheesy
garlic bread) and all gather in the
kitchen to demolish it.
2pm
Moving down to the ‘news room’
for my Fashion Journalism for
Multiple Platforms (broadcast)
by Kath Melandri.
4:15am
Finally in bed after a long day,
it never takes me long to drift
off after a night out, even with
the soundtrack to London right
outside my window.
3pm
Quick ‘tea and a wee’.
4pm
Last Fashion lecture of the day.
5pm
After my longest day of the week
at uni, I finally get to jump on the
tube and go back to halls.
5:30pm
Gather in the kitchen/living room
with two of my flat mates and
cook dinner together. A favourite
meal of ours is chicken fajitas,
which we seem to have at least
once a week.
6:30pm
Back to my room to start getting
ready for the night.
8pm
Everyone comes to our flat to pre
drink with a concoction of alcohol.
I tend to go for wine because it’s
cheap, however this doesn’t go
down too well with the shots we
usually get when we’re out and I
start mixing my drinks.
49
WHEN I WAS
A GOTH
WORDS BY ISABEL CALABRIA
Looking back at your younger self makes you cringe, right? Remember those fashion faux pas
and bad haircuts – and the advice of loved ones telling at you to go home and change but you
never did? Have you ever considered whether the various phases and trends you went through
left their mark on your ‘grown-up’ style?
I’ve always used fashion as a form of
expression. I just didn’t realise that’s what
I was doing. I wouldn’t call myself a complete
Goth - I didn’t do the hair or the makeup - but
wow did I do the skulls! One outfit that really
stuck with me was a particular favourite.
Going to a family event, I can almost still smell
the desperation of my mother when she told
me, maybe I shouldn’t wear the shirt with a
skull collar, and the matching skull tie with
the skull and cross bone belt!
I didn’t take the advice (of course). I was
certain my grandmother would love my outfit.
My Goth phase ended fairly abruptly when
I asked for some platform shoes sporting
a skull wearing a pink bow. Once it stopped
getting funded by my parents, I had to accept
defeat and moved on. The funny thing about
childhood fashion ‘phases’ is that they can
turn out to be anything but. They can stick
with you. While I no longer sport the skulls,
most of my wardrobe remains black.
Emma also went through a Gothic style
period and explains why she was drawn to
dark colours. “I wanted to be different… to
rebel.” She didn’t fit the mould like other girls
in cliques did. She didn’t have the blonde hair,
the thigh gap with the mini skirt to match. She
didn’t have the fake nails and ridiculous heels.
She needed to find what worked for her. Being
a bit more than a ‘size zero’ (like most of us are,
Emma!) she needed something that flattered
her shape. She went with the age old ‘black is
slimming’ adage. Unlike me however, Emma
went the full hog. She did the black lipstick,
the red low lights in her hair and the whitened
face. She even raided her father’s wardrobe
for some oversized shirts.
As she’s grown older though, Emma’s slavish
devotion to the colour has waned due to
amongst other things, prison restrictions.
She is still influenced by chunky jewellery and
uses it to compliment her own style. Meanwhile
her own style has prevailed. “I no longer have
to please other people: only myself,” she tells
me. Adding, “Sometimes when I am alone, the
gothic tendencies creep back but most of the
time I remind myself that I am a woman; I don’t
need to cover myself in big t-shirts.”
“Ultimately what we
are left with is a beautiful
amalgamation of our fashion
and style experiments
and experiences.”
Rachel also used to spend time scouring
through her father’s wardrobe to find outfits.
She recalls feeling like a “daddy’s girl” was a
way to resist growing up. She didn’t stop at big
t-shirts though. Rachel would also wear her
father’s jeans and style them to suit her “Indie
type fashion”. As she grew older it became
harder to simply go to her dad’s clothing
collection but a part of his style continues
to impact the way she dresses today. Rachel
50
continues to wear androgynous clothing. She
prefers clothes that aren’t revealing. She also
loves vintage and pre-worn items. “I like the
idea that nobody of my generation – or sex wears these kind of clothes.”
The past is a huge inspiration for so many
aspects of fashion; nostalgia often plays
a huge part in personal style. Elizabeth
remembers how in her childhood, stone
washed jeans were all the rage. “My mum
would go to Dagenham Market and come back
with all sorts! Denim was on trend at the time,
so I would get jeans and personalise, and style
them myself. I just love denim. I even have
denim shoes!”
Whilst denim might have been on trend at
the time of her childhood, Elizabeth is happy
to see the trend return, proving that denim
truly is timeless and can still be updated
and modernised. Even with limited prison
wardrobes, she has a number of denim pieces
and believes these can go with “any trend”
and are “the perfect wardrobe staple pieces.”
Fashion is a peculiar thing. Trends come
and go but often, without us realising, these
trends leave footprints on our style psyches.
We remain influenced by our childhood
choices; whether they are good or bad.
Ultimately what we are left with is a beautiful
amalgamation of our fashion and style
experiments and experiences. Meaning that
our own personal style completely reflects
our unique personalities and what we want to
portray. And what a beautiful thing that is.
MY IDEAL DRESS
WORDS BY CHARLOTTE
ILLUSTRATIONS BY PIPPA
The ideal dress that would pop into my head would be a
leopard print corset style top, half fitted to perfection.
Increasing the bust and decreasing the waist. I’d love the
corset to be followed by layers upon layers (and even more
layers) of black netting to make it have a more puffy effect.
It’s a girly chic/rock chick look.
To make it more ‘out there’ I’d wear a shrunken version of a
top hat with more black netting to cover half of the face.
To me it oozes classiness.
52
TAKE 5
WORDS BY FRANCESCA LEE
Perfume
1Chanel Chance Eau Vive Combines squeezy citrus notes of grapefruit
and red orange, infused with jasmine and
white musk in a round flacon bottle. Sweet.
Eros Pour Femme 2Versace Lemon, bergamot, pomegranate, jasmine
and peony with a base of sandalwood.
Flashy scent in flashy bottle.
3Aerin Rose De Grasse
Granddaughter of founder, Estee Lauder,
now has a posh, top of range perfume line
and this is its true classic rose scent. Very
feminine and sophisticated, an instantly
dectectable rose is tempered with violet,
wood and musk. 4Armani Privé Pierre De Lune From the haute couture line and designed
around the note of cassia (also known as
“hot cinnamon”), this gives a floral-woody
scent which smells very ‘front row’ and
in-the-know.
5 Estee Lauder Modern Muse Le Rouge
The American perfume giant’s latest
offering features a red trouser suited
Kendall Jenner in the advertising campaign.
Top notes of jasmine and mandarin are
fused with honeysuckle and Madagascar
vanilla. Smells very ‘of its time’. Films
1Southpaw
Stars Jake Gyllenhaal and Rachel
McCadams. A boxing film with a twist.
Be prepared with tissues.
2 Inside Out
The latest Disney Pixar film is an
emotional rollercoaster. This joyful
coming of age story will pull at your
heartstrings.
3 Jurassic World
A sequel to the original Jurassic
Park has just as much dinosaur and
TWICE as much jump factor!
4 Magic Mike XXL
Stars Channing Tatum. Enough said.
5 The Hunger Games Mockingjay Part 2
(Released November 2015) The much
anticipated third film in the series
promises not to disappoint.
Trends
1Khaki
As in the colour. Marc Jacobs, Chanel,
Ralph Lauren embrace for AW2015/16.
2Sheer
Black - or white. By Dolce and Gabbana,
Michael Kors and Bottega Veneta.
3Jumpsuits
Check out versions by Dior, Ralph
Lauren and Emilio Pucci.
4 Textured denim
Gucci, Burberry, Tommy Hilfiger
created so much more than blue jeans.
5 White lace
As seen on the catwalks of Valentino,
Chloe and Louis Vuitton.
55
Celebs
1
2
3
4
5
Kendall Jenner
Kardashian sister, supermodel, face of
multiple beauty brands, 19. This teen
is taking over the world.
Nick Grimshaw
Outspoken, Gay Radio 1 DJ with the
Oldham accent and trademark quiff, is
about to start his own Channel 4 show
and join Simon Cowell on X Factor.
Alexa Chung
Former T4 presenter and model, Alexa,
31, is noted for her personal style. She
is now at the heart of fashion, most
recently designing her first collection
with AG Jeans.
Jamie Dornan
Irish model-turned-actor played
Christian Grey in the film adaptation
of Fifty Shades of Grey, 33.
Consequently the blue-eyed, fashion
pin up is hotly anticipated to be taking
over cinema screens soon.
The Weeknd
25-year-old Canadian born R&B
singer, The Weeknd, (aka Abel
Tesfaye) featured on the theme track
for Fifty Shades of Grey is being called
‘the next Michael Jackson’.
Destinations
1
Santorini, Greece
A low key Greek Island escape with
Agean blue top villas and the most
attractive sunsets in the Med.
2Morocco
Find souks amid A-list style, chic
boutiques and harbour restaurants
in this North African country.
3Croatia
Game of Thrones and a reputation
as Europe’s festival capital has
popularised this location with its
coast on the Adriatic Sea.
4Milan
A hub of fashion and design, Milan is
the Italian city always worth visiting.
5 New Zealand
Since it co-hosted the ICC Cricket
World Cup back in March 2015, not
only cricket fans have been unable to
get New Zealand out of their heads.
ASK THE
GOVERNOR
INTERVIEW BY ISABEL CALABRIA
LCF fashion journalism student, Isabel Calabria, asks HMP Send’s Governor,
Carlene Dixon, for her answers to some pressing questions prisoners want to know.
What does HMP Send do to help prisoners
reach their resettlement targets and are
you happy with how this is going?
One of our core aims in the prison
service is to reduce reoffending. We
have to keep people safe but after safety,
resettlement really is our main goal.
Send in particular is very good at that.
Resettlement means different things for
different people and it is ultimately about
the individual and their needs. People have
varying needs whether that’s substance
abuse, violence, accommodation, links to
family and finance.
Here at send we have 100% employment
or activity spaces for all the women.
Every area has a link through to some sort
of vocational training or education. The
ultimate goal is to link in to what the work
and education opportunities are in the
local area. For women who have to care
for children we look at the part time job
market to make sure there is something to
suit everyone. Things that we are proud of
here at send is our therapeutic community
and our substance misuse programmes;
we have the only 6 month abstinence
based drug programme in the country.
We are definitely always trying to
improve. Once a year we do a needs
analysis to identify and address
any gaps. We are conscious at the
moment that there is very little support
surrounding domestic violence so we are
in negotiation with the relevant people
to see what can be done. I’m conscious
there is a real gap at the moment and
want to address it. This is a priority for
me this year.
Where does the money paid by prisoners
for things like tvs and clothes go to and
why are the prisoners not allowed to be
sent in clothes?
The payment for TVs just goes back into a
national fund and doesn’t sit within Send’s
budget unfortunately. This money goes
towards the maintenance and licensing of
the TVs; at the moment there is a national
programme being rolled out to replace
the TVs with flat screens so that is where
that money would go but it doesn’t come
back to Send. More locally though, things
like the money from hair and beauty
appointments and textiles, all of that
money is reinvested, none of that money
goes anywhere else. This money would
go back to buying equipment, shampoo,
conditioner and materials. Sendsations
(the prison boutique), I think is a fantastic
facility, which is actually quite unusual
to find in a prison. The clothing is either
donated through charities, which carry a
nominal charge, or we will periodically buy
clothing from high street shops and we
have to sell these at ticket prices because
we need to cover our costs. The small
amount of money that may be made from
charity clothing will be spent buying more
clothes for the women to have access to.
There were some changes made
nationally that stopped parcels being sent
in to sentenced prisoners which restricted
women to wearing clothes purchased at
the prison. This was to do with promoting
54
the idea of earning privileges and earning
money. At Send we provide more than
other prisons but we appreciate that there
are some women who are serving very
long sentences here and of course you
want to have new clothes. We will always
take advise from women in terms of ideas
about outlets to purchase clothes. We will
always listen to the women’s ideas.
Why are there certain rules in place
regarding open-toe shoes and sun
cream etc?
You will notice that staff also aren’t
allowed to wear open toe shoes around
the prison. It is a health and safety
rule. Previously there were a number of
accidents and injuries caused by the trip
hazards and lack of support that open toe
shoes give. So as much as we would all like
to wear nice sandals unfortunately it’s not
very safe. It is important that we have a
safe environment for everyone who lives
and works here.
Ultimately I have a duty to keep everyone
safe in prisons, that includes staff and
prisoners. So I need to reduce the risk
of any injuries or accidents. We have
wellbeing days for staff and prisoners to
make them more aware of their health
and wellbeing and take responsibility for
it. This includes glucose, breast screening,
weight, smoking etc. Sun cream will be
provided by health care to those who
are photosensitive or those who are on
medication that makes them susceptible
to the harsh sunlight. It will also be given
to those who will be working outside.
What activities does HMP Send provide
to enhance a prisoner’s wellbeing?
Enrichment activities are an area that
Send is particularly good at. They help
make prison a more bearable experience,
so we try and be a bit innovative with the
things we do. The activities are about
helping the women to pass the time a
bit easier. It’s about doing something
that has a bit of purpose and allows the
prisoners to have a conversation about a
shared interest. We have set up a women’s
institute, a book club, craft club, theatre
groups, ‘Changing Tunes’ which is all
about music and one of our staff members
recently set up a club called ‘Knit and
Natter’ in her own time and is actually
learning how to knit from a prisoner, so
everyone is getting something out of it.
It’s a way to talk to people and to make
friends. There is a real pressure on prisons
at the minute but we are really trying to
protect these activities because we see
the true value that these things hold for
the women. Again we are always happy to
hear any other ideas.
How are you helping HMP Send and
its prisoners stay connected to the
community?
We try to do a lot with different people
within the community. We have a really
good relationship with (local art gallery)
Watts Gallery which enables the women
to get involved in an activity that isn’t just
about education and work. I went to an
exhibition of prisoners’ work not long after
I started here, which went on to a gallery
in London’s West End. It was amazing to
see and really well received. We also do
a lot of fundraising events such as Race
For Life within the grounds and Macmillan
Coffee mornings and of course the London
College of Fashion projects. Our beehives
are a real community project too. It’s not
only about learning about bees and how
to look after them, bees are becoming
endangered and having them in prisons
- bizarrely - stops other things getting at
them, so its helpful too. We also try and
release as many women on license as
possible, to keep them connected to the
community. We always get compliments
back about women on placements.
The main part of the day will focus on
attending work or education. More
recreational activities will be moved
to the evening.
What changes are happening now or
about to happen?
Prisons are inspected by the Chief
Inspector of Prisons on a regular basis
and there are four tests that are looked
at. Out of those four tests, Send came
out at the highest level for all of them,
which is amazing! One of the areas
highlighted as not being quite as good
was the awareness of equality issues. We
have a predominantly white staff group,
because of this, we have introduced a
few things to try and improve and raise
awareness of diversity. I have introduced
a calendar of equality and diversity
events that managers have been tasked
to run, focussing on raising awareness
both in staff and in prisoners. We need
to celebrate that people have different
needs and different cultures. We have
introduced bi-monthly focus groups; one
for BME women, one for Foreign National
women, one for Traveller women and one
for the Over 50s group.
Nationally there has been a big drive
to save money across all public sector
services. As part of this, every prison
has been put through a ‘benchmarking
process’ to ensure that the spending on
the services is comparable. We are in
the process of going through that and
have had imposed on us a new national
core day. Luckily the changes for women
prisoners are actually minimal. The
(typical) day that we were presented
with had women being locked up at
lunchtime but we negotiated. We don’t
do that currently and don’t want to go
back to doing that. So this was a real
achievement. There will be changes to
how the day is run with the goal being to
achieve real work skills upon release.
Nationally, the prison service wanted to
do more for short term offenders. At the
moment those of sentences less than 12
months do not receive the same support
upon release that those serving over 12
months. Now there is a core National
Probation Service that deals with the
high-risk cases. The new community
rehabilitation companies deal with
everyone else. When they are bought in,
a resettlement plan is drawn up and then,
at least 12 weeks before release, they will
review the resettlement plan to see what
else they will need in terms of immediate
resettlement. When prisoners leave they
will continue to receive support from the
support workers who have been involved
for the last three months of their sentence.
“Enrichment activities
are an area that Send is
particularly good at. They
help make prison a more
bearable experience, so we
try and be a bit innovative
with the things we do.”
55
EMPLOYMENT
AFTER
PRISON
Ryan meets a London-based
company steering exoffenders into jobs within
the creative industries.
A lot of things are off-limits to prisoners.
But that’s kind of the idea behind serving
time after all. One of the ‘things’ however can
stretch to ex-prisoners too: a job. What makes
this unsettling is the fact that unemployment
is a leading factor in re-offending, throwing
onetime prisoners into a perpetual and
seemingly unbreakable cycle; essentially
being punished again (and again) for something
they have already served time in prison for.
The whole system seems to be broken.
Poached Creative, a marketing and
communications social enterprise based
in Hackney, East London, is attempting to
mend it. As one of only a few programmes
and foundations in the UK dedicated to
helping those who want to help themselves.
As one of only a few organisations helping
long-term unemployed adults to break into
the creative sector, the company, founded
by Jessica Smith, in 2009, has helped mentor
and train a number of ex-offenders. In the
past 18 months, of more than 50 participants
on Poached Creative’s Big Issue online
journalism programme, including several
ex-offenders, many have gone into further
education, volunteer work, self-employment
or paid employment.
“My mission was to bridge the gap in
experience and confidence, that stops
many talented but disadvantaged people
from finding meaningful work,” says its
founder, who also runs the programme
in Bournemouth.
The company trains marginalised individuals,
homeless persons, those suffering from
mental health issues and ex-offenders who
want to break into the creative industries.
Commissions regarding marketing and social
media work range from developing a website
for young people with disabilities, to creating
a public health campaign or documenting a
journey through books or film. Often the target
audience is key.
“This is not just made up work, it’s real work,”
says Smith, explaining some work is done
by individuals on the programme, offering
practical and real life experience. “You could
potentially go from being a volunteer on a
project to getting paid as a freelancer.”
The Poached Creative programme offers free
six-week training programmes and ongoing
volunteer opportunities. Training is varied
and extensive, ranging from news and feature
writing, to photography and graphic design. All
are supported by guest speakers and informal
workshop environments. Trainees can then
build a portfolio of work completed during
the training, giving them that leg up into the
industry that could eventually land them a job.
Importantly, not only are participants building
a professional portfolio overseen by in-theknow industry experts, they’re also building
contacts. Every week professional guests
come to the programme to give lectures,
providing ample opportunity for networking
while still on the course. A focus on “career
mapping” in the final week allows trainees to
see how their skills can be applied to potential
job opportunities. Although the courses do
focus on skills specifically within journalism,
photography and design, this doesn’t limit
what participants are able to do after the
course has finished.
“One guy set up a bike business after the
course,” points out Smith. “He used the skills
he got in the training to inform his next moves
and set it all up himself.” Programmes such
as this - so vital to building a better postconviction environment and better society as a
whole - are few and far between. Those that do
exist, struggle to stay afloat due to the simple
problem of funding. This leaves people like
Smith hard pressed to deliver the kind of help
that changes lives and challenges employers
to look for talent beyond known sources.
56
The programme, which is entirely dependent
on funding, sometimes cannot run throughout
the year. Smith argues more focus should
be put on employing disadvantaged people
who are not the obvious ‘right fit for the job’,
especially in the creative industries. “I’m
always so impressed with the quality of
candidates,” she extolls. “People who may
have never written before but just have an
inkling that they’re a bit good at it, through to
people who have had careers in the past, are
overwhelmingly interesting people.”
The individuals she meets, she believes,
almost always have to try harder to overcome
the barriers preventing them from landing
jobs on their own, with the result their work
has more substance, quality and passion than
most. So although the talent is there, so are
the barriers. Which is where the programme
must step in. “We think about what kind of
barriers are there for each person and advise
on how to help get over them. We can also
build some of our volunteer network through
past students with a lot of them coming back
to volunteer with us. Which is great - because
sometimes these things seem so unattainable
but when you see them doing it, it doesn’t
seem so hard.”
Poached Creative serves to showcase that
opportunities are out there. Programmes
like this exist in order to battle with
preconceived and ill-advised notions.
Keeping unrepresented classes of citizens
from re-entering the workforce and exiting
harmful cycles is crucial. Encouraging wider
participation, both in the student body and a
volunteer capacity could help alleviate some
of the problem. The end goal is making sure
an exit from prison isn’t just an entry ticket
back in. Smith advises would-be entrants to
follow their passion. “If you’re into writing,
then read, read, read, And READ. Get your
hands on anything you can. Just reading
widely and actively is really the first step. If
it’s photography, it’s really the same thing.
Look at lots of pictures. Break down the
style… methods… anything. If you’re really
interested in something: tell people. By and
large, someone will always be able to put you
in touch with someone. We live in a networked
world right now…so it can happen anywhere.”
www.poachedcreative.com
SHELON’S
COLUMN
WHO AM I?
Let me tell you a history
My life, this prison
6 years in a cell for a wrong decision
Since young I took drugs
To numb the pain
But the pain remains
THE BEST AND THE WORST OF IT
I adored and LOVED fashion. I would shop in
and out of our great British capital, London,
at least twice a week. My family and I would
always be wearing the latest designer labels
fresh off the catwalk.
Being in prison was challenging for many
different reasons besides accepting the fact
you are no longer free to live the life you choose.
Firstly being away from my family and secondly,
the difficulty of having to leave behind my
young children was hard enough. After some
comprehension and focus about where I was,
I couldn’t quite believe what everyone was
wearing. It was grey. It was grey. It was grey.
Watching women walking around in prison
issue was mind-boggling. Why would
these beautiful women want to do this to
themselves? It has to be the worst fashion on
Planet Earth? The icing on the cake for me was
when I realised they even had the grey trainers
to match. Please note these trainers had no
stripes. No ticks. No name. No laces. No life.
because I discovered a little shop by the
reception area called Sendsation boutique.
The clothes are remarkable, reasonable and
good value. I bought some great jumpsuits
and dresses here. This boutique brought
back my confidence and taught me a lot
about life and people.
Being in prison generally knocks your
confidence. Being able to dress up and
look good put a spring in my step. My selfesteem shot up. When I dress in prison issue
for example, I’m not so bold. We also have
a range of catalogues, the downside being
we sometimes have to do without canteen.
However, I’m willing to sacrifice in order to have
some fashion in my life. One thing is for certain
though. I will never buy a grey tracksuit!
Anger shows in my tears
My face hides the fears
That my son will reject me
And my lover says ‘over’
But it ain’t over yet?
I got their pictures on the wall
Every day on the phone to my son
And his Gran Leon fighting for a grant
But I am still a mum and my heart is bleeding
So long as I am breathing
I pray for the day I‘m leaving.
SEND PLAYLIST
Listen - Beyonce (Andréia)
Diva - Beyonce (Shelon)
Bloodstream - Ed Sheeran (Charlotte)
But at least I had my fashion. This was back
in 2009/10 when I was getting hand-ins every
three months from my family and friends.
Looking good always gave me confidence
and boy, did I walk around with my head held
high. Then, in December 2013, a rule was put
in place to stop family’s sending in books and
clothing. This meant no more parcels. “NO!”
I screamed. “This can’t be.” Until then I had
felt somewhat relaxed in my sentence. I was
shocked and angry at the change. Now, who
is walking around in prison issue? YES! ME!
I feel knocked off my throne and doing time
at Her Majesty’s pleasure will never be the
same again. For days I had to walk with my
head hung towards the floor. Oh the shame of
knowing I had to wear prison issue clothing.
In time my situation got a lot easier only
Now I am sitting pretty
Looking in the mirror
But when the mask has gone
I’m left bare nothing left to share
Yes I’m scared
Heaven (slow version) - DJ Sammy (Pippa)
LOVE BEHIND BARS
Have you ever loved behind bars?
It aches, it breaks
They said, time will heal
But in here time stands still
And I feel so ill….
For I am loving you behind bars
Hold My Hand - Jess Glyn (Elizabeth)
Everything I Own - Ken Booth (Rowena)
Rocking Time - Dennis Brown (Bianca)
She’s Like The Wind - Patrick Swayze (Emma)
High - Lighthouse Family (Julia)
Bohemian Rapsody - Queen (Ella)
In my pillow stains of tears
For I cry for days, months and years
Behind bars I feel insane
No one can understand my pain
But for one night only
I ask you
Come into my cell
Look up in the stars
Only then will you understand my pain
Of loving behind bars
Smooth - Santana (Joanne)
Can’t feel my face - Weeknd (Camilla)
59
Poems by By Andréia
Runner up HMP Bronzefield Library
London College of Fashion
20 John Prince’s Street
London, W1G 0BJ
www.arts.ac.uk/fashion
1

The Beauty`s Inside Issue Four Here

Transcription

Similar documents

Company profile Dutch fashion house Oilily has been a hallmark of

Walk-for-a-Cause-Bos..

Special release for the 2012 edition of

Shalwar Fiesta - Sunday Observer

RUDSAK

Sew Fun! - Australian International School Hong Kong

OCTOBER 2005 ISSUE 1 KRABBESHOLM

Audrey Hepburn beauty tips

To become No. 1 Women Fashion Marketplace in South

FASHION // ACCESSORIES FRAGRANCE // COSMETICS