This Week in Palestine`s Print Edition
Transcription
This Week in Palestine`s Print Edition
Issue No. 183, July 2013 A Culinary Experience My Big Fat AbuLaban Iftar....................................................................................... 4 Wild Capers in Palestine......................................................................................... 8 Al-Halal and al-Haraam .......................................................................................... 10 My Mother, My Grandmother, and the Food They Made......................................... 16 Food in Palestine..................................................................................................... 20 Chefs from Palestine............................................................................................... 24 Hilda’s Malban......................................................................................................... 32 The Generous Wilderness of Yacoub al-Khayyat.................................................... 36 From the Bosom of the Earth to the Bounty of the Table......................................... 40 Maqloubeh – Made in Italy...................................................................................... 42 The Sweet Taste of Palestine.................................................................................. 46 Noor Women’s Empowerment Group...................................................................... 48 Healthy Culinary Sessions for a Long, Healthy Life................................................ 52 In the Limelight........................................................................................................ 54 Reviews................................................................................................................... 60 Events...................................................................................................................... 66 Listings.................................................................................................................... 70-88 Maps........................................................................................................................ 89-97 The Last Word......................................................................................................... 98 Picturesque Palestine.............................................................................................. 99 Telefax: + 970/2-2-2951262 e-mail: [email protected] www.thisweekinpalestine.com www.facebook.com/ThisWeekInPalestine Printed by: Studio Alpha, Al-Ram, Jerusalem Binding by: Al-Ebda’, Al-Ram, Jerusalem Maps: Courtesy of PalMap - GSE Distribution in the West Bank: CityExpress A Culinary Experience I have a confession to make: I have a crush on Chef Emeril Lagasse! He is a master when it comes to the art of cooking. He expertly prepares unique dishes with original recipes. On screen, Emeril is vibrant. His passion transmits through his energy as he dances his way into making a dish. I was very excited when I read that he had opened a restaurant in Bethlehem, PA. “He has a restaurant in Palestine?” I was so surprised! It turns out that his restaurant is in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania. Nonetheless, it was a nice coincidence. In this issue – “A Culinary Experience” – we highlight some of Palestine’s best chefs. We accompany Rana Abdulla on her journey into the kitchen of her mother and grandmother and taste the wonders of wild capers in Palestine as described by Aisha Mansour. Vivien Sansour writes about the rich delicacies of Palestinian malban, and Lana Shehadeh brings out the vivid memories of motabbak at Zalatimo, in the Old City of Jerusalem. Nicola Hazboun makes an Italian-style maqloubeh, and Riyam Kafri-Abu Laban tells the story of her “Big Fat Abu-Laban Iftar”; surely that’s an experience that many can relate to. Daphne Muse contributes to This Week in Palestine once again with “From the Bosom of the Earth to the Bounty of the Table,” an article about the value of bread across various cultures. What makes a culinary experience special? Passion, and a lot of fresh ingredients. We Palestinians would know. Our exquisite cuisine shows our appreciation for food and quality cooking. A plate of stuffed grape leaves with zucchini and eggplant is prepared with patience, elegance, and love. Even our salads and desserts stand out with their fine touches and unique flavours. So my friends, this July, be inspired by our tasty blends. Enjoy the goodness of sweet dates, tea with sage, and qatayef. Take your time while you eat, and let every bite seep into your senses. Ramadan Kareem! Manar Harb Content Editor Forthcoming Issues: The Heat Is On – August 2013 Theme: A Culinary Experience Cover photo: Maqloubeh, art work by Sara Lovari. Healthy Practices – September 2013 [email protected] Photo by Santo Cosci. Contemporary Palestine – October 2013 Please note that the caption beneath the photo on page 22 in our June 2013 issue should in other words, “Since 1187 A.D., right after Salah Eddin liberated Jerusalem from the Crusaders; the Joudeh family - a Muslim family from Jerusalem - became the sole legitimate custodians of the keys of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Mr. Adeeb Jawad Joudeh is the current custodian of the keys and the seal holder of the Holy Grave. The Nusseibeh family was given the role of keepers of the door of the Holy Sepulchre.” We apologise for the inadvertent error. Advisory Board Elias Anastas Riyam Kafri-AbuLaban Omar Barghouti Raed Saade Yasmeen El Khoudary Rawan Sharaf Architect, Bethlehem Human rights activist, Ramallah The views presented in the articles do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher. Maps herein have been prepared solely for the convenience of the reader; the designations and presentation of material do not imply any expression of opinion of This Week in Palestine, its publisher, editor, or its advisory board as to the legal status of any country, territory, city, or area, or the authorities thereof, or as to the delimitation of boundaries or national affiliation. 2 Diwan Ghazza, Gaza Assistant Professor of Organic Chemistry, Ramallah Activist and tourism expert, Jerusalem Director of Al Hoash, Jerusalem 3 My Big Fat AbuLaban Iftar By Riyam Kafri July 20, 2012 - Our Ramadan commences with a 70-person iftar that brings the entire AbuLaban family out of the woodwork. The sisters, the brothers, the daughters, the sons, the grandchildren, the great grandchildren, the brides-to-be, the grooms-to-be, the sisters-in-law, the brothers-in-law, the AbuLabans living in Ramallah, and the AbuLabans from all over the world. Seventy beautiful people sit under the age-old grapevine in our front yard and break their fast together on the first day of Ramadan. None of the food is catered, it is Abbreviated AbuLaban family. all homemade, and as Allahu Akbar sounds from the nearby mosques, Samira (my sister-in-law) and I smile to each other as we watch the soup evaporate, the chicken disappear, the meat vanish, and the rice platters wane. The ebb and flow of food from platters to plates, the sound of children arguing over who gets the first piece of kifta – all are signs that the AbuLabans are gathered here and now to eat and mark the continuation of a venerable tradition started by Khamis AbuLaban, father and patriarch of this extended family of Abu Shoosheh refugees who came and settled in Ramallah in 1948. The AbuLabans are experts at hosting big gatherings; after all, to gather the immediate family means a 50-person congregation of men, women, children, and teenagers. But isn’t this what Palestine is all about, large extended families, big dinners, and food cooked with so much love? The women in our family 4 (garlic), sprinkled with lemon and eaten with white rice; and for those strong at heart, hot green peppers on the side. Kifta bit-heeniyyeh will give those hungry for something tangy, dense, and meaty something to look forward to. The table is then complemented with fattoush, the perfect marriage between fried bread, fresh salad vegetables, and a lemonvinegar-oil dressing, and ornamented with the deep-crimson balady sumac that Samira gets from Sinjel. Tamarind, qamr el-deen, and soos (licorice) filled with essential minerals necessary to quench a fasting person’s thirst sit in tall glass carafes on the side, along with the rest of the soft drinks. Dates decorate the corner of every table. And of course qatayef, the dessert of the season, nervously waits in the kitchen for its turn in this theatrical production of food and love. Qatayef is the showstopper of the evening. No one forgets dense, doughy qatayef stuffed with walnuts and cinnamon or sweetened Arabic goat cheese. Some of us wait the entire year for that one particular crunchy soft moment when it meets your tongue and explodes into your mouth causing a firing of taste buds and an overload of serotonin in the synaptic cleft. Your brain glows with pleasure. Kahweh sada washes it down. The night before, as we all anticipate hilal (crescent moon) Ramadan to be spotted in clear skies, we begin to plan cook like pro chefs and can dissolve the best catering company into tears. To me, the American-educated, young bride, and mother of twins, an AbuLaban Iftar sounded a lot like a scene from My Big Fat Greek Wedding, and I kid you not, it is! I mean Stephen Spielberg could not have choreographed a scene like this. And as the latest addition to the family, I had better step up to the stove and join the cook off, because this is memories in the making for me and my children and grandchildren to come. And who does not love to cook, really? Preparations for this joyous event begin days before Ramadan. My husband Ahmed and my brother-inlaw Hisham spend their time on the phone calling everyone and confirming an already known tradition. Everyone is invited. The menu is discussed extensively and the vegetables involved in the main dishes are chosen based on what is in season. Since Ramadan is in the summer these days, maqloubeh, the ultimate comfort food for Palestinian families, would take centre stage. Firm eggplants, watery cauliflower, yellow potatoes, and bright orange carrots all expertly layered with meat and rice and slow-cooked with water and spices, then flipped onto a large platter to take its rightful place as the queen of all dishes. Alongside the queen will sit fresh, green molookhiyyeh cooked with chicken broth and finished with qadhet tomeh 5 may even extend this intricate and complex cooking dance into their own kitchens and offer to bring something cooked from their own homes. I have been doing this for three years, and lucky for me and the AbuLabans, cooking is a hobby and a passion passed down to me from my mother. The act of bringing food to the table makes you a provider, a mother, and the owner of your own home. The first iftar in Ramadan holds all those meanings and much more. It is a tradition started many many years ago by my father-in-law, may he rest in peace. And it was continued by Samira and my husband many years after he passed away. It is not just food; it is about love and family and memories. It is simply Palestinian. To Khamis AbuLaban, family is all he had left after he lost his village. And when you lose all that is material and physical in life, you always hang on to what is more precious, love. This coming Ramadan will start around the tenth anniversary of his death, but this Ramadan also starts after two more of his grandchildren have gotten married and started families of their own, one of his granddaughters welcomed another member to her family, one of his daughters-in-law is expecting another baby girl, and another grandson will be on his way to the golden cage of matrimony. We will all gather under the grapevine, we will eat, laugh, yell at the children to be quiet, and plan to marry off another son or daughter soon, and we will all play our little part in keeping the Khamis AbuLaban tradition alive for many years to come. Ramadan Kareem! the next day. The schedule is set so that as the chicken is marinated the meat is cooking, as the meat is cooking the eggplants, cauliflower, and potatoes are fried. The rice relaxes in water as it soaks and gets ready to be cooked into the perfect softness. The ground beef is spiced and made into medium-sized fingers, precooked in the oven before the thick tahini sauce and the fried potatoes are placed on top and then left to roast in the oven. Samira and I along with many of my other sisters-in-law are up as early as five in the morning. The twins are up at that time and need to be fed, so I feed them, put them back to sleep and head to the kitchen. Samira is up too, and she stands in her own kitchen trying to begin the cooking marathon. And in collective but separate kitchens we cook rhythmically, systematically, and ritualistically, only stopping every now and then to check on each other. We coordinate the use of her big gas oven, the kind only restaurants and, of course, the AbuLabans own. We decide that the last thing we should tackle is fattoush so it can stay fresh, and we often encourage each other: “Just a few more hours, the kifta is ready, the chicken is roasting; khalas, we are almost done.” While the sounds in the kitchen rise with women chattering, and the temperature from the ovens spikes to carry aromas of cooked goodness, the young nephews and nieces are busy putting together the dining area. The tables are laid with plates, spoons, forks, and glasses. It is a world-class attempt to make sure that every guest has a place. Ramadan lights are threaded through the grapevine to add a touch of ambiance. Ahmed is busy managing the team of young nephews and nieces. Samira has been cooking for the AbuLabans for years. She has been surrounded by nine sisters-in-law who all, like trained dancers, join her at the right time in the kitchen to give her an extra pair of hands to hold a pot or chop an onion or wash the accumulating dishes. She has four more sisters who Dr. Riyam Kafri-AbuLaban is an assistant professor of organic chemistry at Al Quds Bard College based at Al Quds University-Abu Dis. She co-writes and co-manages The Big Olive: The Tales of Two Professors in Palestine (http:// thebigolive.tumblr.com). She is married to Ahmed AbuLaban, and both are on the fearless frontlines of parenthood with the lovely toddler twins Basil and Taima. Riyam can be reached at rkafri@ gmail.com. 6 Wild Capers in Palestine By Aisha Mansour dressed in her traditional embroidered birawi dress and peasant headscarf, as she picked the grape leaves. In the 1980s, Americans were not exposed to stuffed grape leaves. I’m sure they were thinking, Why is this lady picking grape leaves? I was too embarrassed. I just stood motionless, asking my mother every few minutes whether she had picked enough grape leaves. I wanted to leave ASAP. Thirty years later, I am in Palestine picking capers. The general population seems to be unaware of the abundance of wild capers in Palestine. Thanks to cultural globalisation and Fatafeat (the Dubai-based food channel), many Palestinians consume capers. But they often purchase the imported tiny pickled buds from local supermarkets. Last year, a car stopped in the middle of the street as I picked capers just to ask me what I was picking. I handed the man and his wife a few. He recognized the tiny buds. He buys them from the supermarket, but he did not realise that they grew all over Palestine. In a mere 30 minutes, one can pick enough to pickle a small jar of capers instead of purchasing the expensive import. Several references explain the use of capers in traditional Arab medicine. The roots were used to heal several ailments, including colds and fevers, infertility, joint infections, diabetes, lung diseases, and general pain. However, I have not found any reference to the use of the caper in traditional Palestinian cuisine. I have asked friends and colleagues who have elderly family members hoping that someone would recall the use of this bud in the Palestinian diet. To date, I have no evidence that the caper was ever used in traditional Palestinian cuisine. Maghreb azan (the sunset call to prayer) had begun and it was quickly getting dark, but I was keen to go out and pick a few more capers to fill one more jar. An extra jar of pickled capers will come in handy as a gift. I was planning on taking a group caper-picking later in the week, but I worried that the buds would expand and bloom into the beautiful white-purplish flowers. Once the buds flower, there is no caper for picking and pickling. So I went out to pick some capers just when the sunset call to prayer started. Passers-by stared, wondering what I was picking at this time of day. I plunged into a ditch where a large caper bush sprawled. Caper bushes are persistent and grow everywhere in the Mediterranean region, including Palestine. You can find caper bushes on the sides of the street, in the midst of olive and fig orchards, and exuding from almost every sidewalk and rock fence crack. A teenager passed by going home after a soccer game. He paused. Backed up. And looked down at me as I crawled in the ditch picking the capers. Perhaps he thought that I had fallen into the ditch, broken my ankle, and couldn’t get out. I may have needed his help. I stared back and offered a friendly hello. He didn’t respond. He continued to walk homebound. I’ve turned into my mother. Immigrating to the States to live in a condensed apartment complex, my mother yearned for her peasant way of life. After all, she was a fallaha who harvested the family’s crops and sold them at the hisbeh (market) until she married my father and flew to the States. So when she found a grapevine on the side of the road or in a public park, she stopped to pick the grape leaves. Sometimes she would make a special trip bringing two or three bags and dragging my sister and me to help her pick the maximum number of grape leaves. Pedestrians stared at my mother, Pickled Capers Fill a jar with freshly picked and washed capers from a nearby bush. 8 Add one grape leaf, one teaspoon of salt, and any other herb or pepper that you desire. Seal the jar and store for at least one month prior to consuming. Note: I pour boiled water into the empty jar and lid prior to their use. When the capers are ready, use them as a flavour enhancer in salads, sandwiches, pasta dishes, and with fish. Sahha! If you have information on the use of the caper in traditional Palestinian cuisine, please send me a message on my blog (address below). Aisha Mansour blogs at the Seasonal Palestinian. Follow the weekly blog at www.seasonalpalestinian.wordpress.com. Photo By Aisha Mansour. 9 Al-Halal and al-Haraam Food as Metaphor for Righteousness in Palestinian Society Food as metaphor for love is a dominant theme in Palestinian society. Cultural expressions ranging from filial love and conjugal fidelity to family solidarity and Ramadan rituals instrumentalise food to communicate love, tenderness, and loyalty. To share bread and salt ( )اخلبز وامللحis metaphoric of a deep bond, an indissoluble alliance between friends, spouses, kinsfolk, in-laws, and neighbours. An underlying logic relates the literal sharing of the bread with the concept of ishreh ()الع�شرة, the bond of living together. “Time” plays a pivotal role in fomenting this aspect of social cohesion. It is believed that ishreh, sharing living space through time and food, nurtures reciprocal love, trust, and loyalty. In this sense the ritual sharing of food bespeaks joint life and forms the elementary unit of social solidarity. In brief, food constitutively constitutes the righteous community. “Do you want your children to ‘eat’ haraam?” The Jerusalem electricity company advertisement poster admonishes the subscribers. The caption cleverly invokes the religious laws related to food to deter thefts of electricity lines and endless delays in paying the monthly bills. “Eating halal,” in accordance with Muslim law, is idiomatically used to enjoin people to abstain from breaking the divine law of shari’a. The social religious command to live in halal and steer away from haraam encapsulates the normative values that direct the faithful on the path of righteousness. Conducting oneself in accordance with shari’a and using the Prophet Muhammad as a paragon, i.e., leading a virtuous life without infracting the divine laws, is understood as living in halal. Iben halal is a gallant, pure-ofheart, incorruptible, guilt-free individual. The epithet refers to one who lives in the grace of God, mardi مر�ضي. Iben halal is an idiomatic expression that By Ali Qleibo singles out a man or woman of noble character as opposed to iben haraam, literally bastard, but which refers to the unreliable, fraudulent, thieving, and dubious individual with tainted character. Whereas the first one is mardi ()مر�ضي, living in the grace of God, the other is ghadeeb ()غ�ضيب, i.e., one who has incurred the wrath of one’s parents, one’s spouse, and Allah; damned. The expression of the presence of an Other, that we are not alone – a profound religious feeling – is illustrated in our abiding by divine law as reflected in our understanding and corresponding conduct in accordance with the ubiquitous concept of halal and haraam. This binary opposition reflects two possibilities of human existence: living in or out of grace. Falling out of grace and thereby becoming a damned ghadeeb is mainly attributed to “eating” haraam. In this context the concept “eating” denotes a wide range of social transgressions such as lying, bearing false witness, dissembling, stealing, embezzling, and cheating. In short, “eating” and “living” in haraam 10 “Palestinian Meal” 1980,egg tempera on wood-70X80 cm. Artwork by Suliman Mansour. refers to fraudulent violations of divine and social laws. The infractions of the sacred bond of ishreh are judged as breaking the rules of trust and loyalty with loved ones and with the community at large. Such aberrant behaviour earns the perpetrator the epithet of “iben haraam.” It is believed that living in haraam and feeding one’s offspring on the tainted income have adverse consequences. Food as metaphor for love, tenderness, and loyalty finds its ultimate expression in bread. “I long for my mother’s bread” ()احن اىل خبز امي is the opening verse of one of Mahmoud Darwish’s popular poems. It touches a special chord in Palestinian wijdan (the poetic sensibility at the core of our ethos). One’s mother’s bread does not need to be the best bread. It may be horribly dry and crumbly, unleavened, half-baked and chewy or nondescript ordinary bread. Rather bread is a metaphor for every Palestinian’s nostalgia for a mother’s love and warmth. In our society where food, love, intimacy, and tenderness are closely related categories, eating and its metonymic associations assume a highly symbolic social value. During the special meals of Ramadan, feasts are made for the relatives of the mother, maternal aunts and uncles, silet al-rahem ()�صلة الرحم, literally translated as uterine relations. All female relatives related to the mother, i.e., by means of the uterus, are invited to participate in the Ramadan feasts celebrating the breaking of the fast. Costly as they may be, it is incumbent on the male to perform them as an expression of his love for his mother and to maintain al-ishreh, nurtured through the symbolic partaking of “bread and salt.” Palestinian weddings initiate a series of reciprocal azayem, ostentatious celebratory family feasts. Food, once 11 On his way home the Palestinian male will continue to drop by and visit his mother but refrains from eating her food. “But she has lunch ready” is the usual self-defence advanced to justify not eating his mother’s food. He would not dare mention his wife’s first name. “This is your favourite seasonal dish.” The mother would implore him to eat. “I cooked the stuffed artichokes especially for you. Minshan khatry (for my sake) eat only one single artichoke.” Once he succumbs to the first artichoke he would be urged to move to the second. “If you love me eat another.” From early childhood we all grew up with this extortion. “If you love me, eat...” Even when babies cry because of discomfort from wet nappies, stomach cramps, or anything else, the Palestinian mother instantly cuddles the infant, brings the uncomfortable child close to her chest, and offers her breast. The infant’s diverse needs fuse into one response: breastfeeding. Arab children are choked by their mothers love. Once they mature and become independent, Palestinian adults are perceived as ungrateful wretches. Arab idioms are conjured to console the mother, Albi ala ibni u alb ibni hajar ()قلبي على ابني وقلب ابني حجر, my heart is again, creates the “bread-and-salt” alliance that modulates with time into al-ishreh, which solidifies the inlaws’ relationship. On the other hand, because of their love for God, and in a complex theological framework in which Muslims seek to emulate God’s quality of samad, i.e., transcending desire, Palestinian Muslims renounce food and fast throughout the days of Ramadan also as a sign of love for God. A pivotal turning point in every Palestinian man’s life is the moment he develops an independent taste and begins to savour his wife’s food. The transition from his mother’s cuisine to his wife’s cuisine – his being “weaned off” his mother’s cooked food – underlies his “maturity.” It marks the transference of his love for his mother to his spouse. The ritual drama is traumatic for the mother and guilt-provoking for the son. She is no longer his sole love and object of veneration, and she must share his love with his wife, whose tenderness, love, and recognition he now seeks. Once he has moved his sense of loyalty to his wife, a by-product of ishreh (life together), the spouse assumes the role of the nurturer. Invariably the event registers in the mother’s view as an act of treachery. The following mother/son repartee is typical in Palestinian homes. 12 mulaghwas ()ملغو�ص. It is a state of ritual impurity, similar to food that is inedible, that turns his wife off sexually from him and that renders him suspicious, lacking social credibility. Negative food qualities are used as euphemisms to describe his fall from grace. The lyrics of the song parallel his actions as the wife laments his change of heart.* Religious idioms permeate our daily discourse: al-kheir wil shar, good and evil; al-reda wil la’ana, the blessed acceptance by God and the accursed state of rejection. The conscience (dhamir) of one who lives a life that is haraam is never clear, saafi. Only by living in halal does one find inner silence and peace, sakina. Our daily discourse is expressive of deep-rooted spiritualism. In Palestine, to buy a fraction of a kilo of tomatoes, grapes, or apricots is unheard of. Even the kilo is barely considered a sufficient amount for a commercial transaction. Though there are only two of us, my daughter Aida and I, we must conform to the local practice and purchase our fruits and vegetables by the ratel, the equivalent of three kilograms, which can be quite awkward. Grapes, for example, come in beautiful big heavy clusters that are difficult for the peasant to disfigure and cut into smaller bunches. If the saleswoman were to leave the grapes in constantly worried about my child, but his/her heart is made of stone. “She is waiting for me.” The son finally stands up to leave. “Of course, now you eat everything ... you want to go to her laghaweese.” (Laghaweese refers to dirty, sloppy food that has nothing to do with the rules of cooking or hygiene.) “My poor son,” she would lament out loud. “She has put a spell on you.” In love with his wife, the husband rushes home. “What did you cook today?” In an extremely popular video song by Carol Samaha, the film reel shows the wife stirring pots, lifting and closing pot lids, sweating and huffing and puffing while cooking for her husband. He comes home. He does not uncover the pots, does not inquire about the food, and barely greets her. These are telltale signs that he has fallen out of love and is disenchanted with her. Instead he walks over to the refrigerator and eats leftover stale lettuce leaves. The idiom in Arabic is bikhamkim ()بخمخم, literally, eating whatever one finds irrespective of its quality or degree of staleness. Significantly the word bikhamkim is used to describe a man who sleeps with all kinds of women irrespective of age or beauty. He is also considered tainted, 13 Photo by George Azar. bag reiterating, “Min kheir Allah,” from the bounty of God. The fruits of the land grow through the grace of God. It is awkward to see His barakeh, His gracious gift, transformed into money; while significant in its own right, it does not grow in nature. In everyday language in contemporary Palestine, spiritual values reminiscent of biblical culture are expressed; kheir and barakeh, halal and haraam are words constantly on the lips of Palestinians. These words, far from being empty clichés, retain their full ethical value as illustrated by the form of conduct, customs, and manners of their users: Palestinian peasants’ simple economic transactions exude a mysticism that reiterates the biblical spirituality that underlies the reciprocal love between humans as supplicants and God as provider. their natural form the scale of the balance would tip heavily in favour of the buyer. Were she to lift it up the scale would tip in her favour. She resolves the dilemma by allowing the scale to tip in favour of the client. Three kilos of grapes are more than what we can consume in two days. Since I only like freshly picked grapes, I return the last bunch that she swiftly puts back into the shopping bag saying, “halal aleik” (it is your right in accordance with the religious concept of ownership, halal). I take the last grapes out of the bag and return them to her wicker basket saying, “halal ‘alaiky,” thereby acquitting her of the guilt of selling me less than my right. Adamantly she refuses saying, “Biddish akol mal haraam” (I do not want to eat from money that is not my due, i.e., ritually impure) and returns the grapes to the shopping bag. I submit and take the extra grapes, cucumbers, or tomatoes and hand her the money. The money barely touches the palm of her shyly extended hand when signs of awkward embarrassment flush her sun-baked face. She takes the money, lifts it to her mouth, kisses it, and mutters words of thanks of God, “Alhamdu-lillah.” Hurriedly she puts a few extra vegetables or fruits of a different kind in the shopping Dr. Ali Qleibo is an anthropologist, author, and artist. A specialist in the social history of Jerusalem and Palestinian peasant culture, he is the author of Before the Mountains Disappear, Jerusalem in the Heart, and Surviving the Wall, an ethnographic chronicle of contemporary Palestinians and their roots in ancient Semitic civilisations. Dr. Qleibo lectures at Al-Quds University. He can be reached at [email protected]. *http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Toa0BOyWyA 14 My Mother, My Grandmother, and the Food They Made We begin this story with the search for the best Palestinian recipes, weaving the traditional culinary palette into a tantalising experience. This later becomes a search for personal cultural identity. When pondering on my childhood experiences, I remember my mother’s lovely features and her delicate soft skin as she began her day early and ended it late, completing all her housework. Amongst my warmest memories, I recollect how she sang as she cooked. As a child I observed her in her solitude picking stones from the lentils with joyous care, as if picking flowers from the garden, giving her fulfilment. My mother, Fatme Hamshari, loved to cook alone. Every day she baked a fresh loaf of homemade bread in the taboun, our mud-and-clay hearth oven used by the fellaheen. She taught me how to mix the flour and water, the yeast and sugar, then knead the dough, cover it with a clean cloth, and let it rise in a warm place; afterwards it would be cut into round pieces and covered again to protect its face. She made sure that I cleaned my hands with dry flour after preparing the bread dough. She never allowed me to touch the oven or to cook or bake. My mother taught me primarily by example how to run an organised home – ironing our clothes and taking care of the many other household duties; most important of all, personal cleanliness. Growing up in our family environment, I learnt self-discipline. I was able to defer gratification and never just accept the status quo. The smell, presentation, and taste of the fresh bread and zaatar that she prepared inspired me. Everything she did gave her enjoyment and invigorated her spirit. Every move she made in the kitchen was accompanied with a smile, an expression of tremendous love that charmed me completely. She taught us about Palestinian folklore by memorising people’s stories and linking them to our By Rana Abdulla Wild thyme. life events. She had the ability to weave dynamic, accurate accounts of life and past events that are still alive in my mind as if they were happening at this very moment. She knew every village of Palestine. My grandmother influenced us a lot with her tasty recipes. She would prepare the most incredible salads and cook nutritious, flavourful dishes, which would be both tasty and, at the same time, packed with an assortment of elements good for the body and soul. Zaatar, for example, is an herb that is strongly 16 the scent of their luggage betraying the contents. It is said that you can identify Palestinian travellers by the smell of zaatar and meramiya (sage) amongst their belongings. These scents have an effect on the Palestinian people and have become the anchors of memory that signify their lost villages and homes. Zaatar is dried in early summer, mixed with sumac and sesame, and stored for later use. It can be added to chicken dishes, baked into plain dough, or put on salads. This herbal condiment has been made this way for generations. Well- associated with the Palestinian identity. Poets, writers, and artists often refer to it in their works. Although zaatar is unique in Palestinian cooking, it is more than just something to eat. It is a powerful cultural symbol; and it is the aroma in every Palestinian home. It is the wild thyme that is handpicked as it flourishes on the mountains of occupied Palestine during spring. It conveys the smell of Palestinian soil, leaving me with many indefinable memories. Palestinians adore it. Palestinian travellers always take it with them as a gift to pass on, 17 properties. Palestinians believe that zaatar is effective in making the mind alert and the body significantly stronger. Zaatar, sometimes translated as hyssop, is a stout, many-stemmed grey, fuzzy shrub, about two feet tall. In summer its white, rather small flowers are grouped in dense spikes on the upper part of the branches. The taste of zaatar is similar to oregano. It is part of the marjoram family. Its Latin name is Origanum syriacum. Zaatar belongs to the Labiatae (or Lamiaceae) family, which includes mint, sage, basil, rosemary, thyme, and many other aromatic plants. A distinctive feature of all the plants of the Labiatae family is the flowers with petals resembling upper and lower lips. Many plants of this family are aromatic and have square stems when cut crosswise, but this is not universal. Zaatar bread – also known as fatayer fallahi, which means villagers’ pie – is a typical Palestinian pastry that is usually made in spring, which is the official season for collecting fresh wild thyme. It is flatbread, oily but crunchy, and stuffed with fresh zaatar leaves, onions, and sumac. Traditional taboun bread. known for its salty, tangy taste, zaatar is an excellent savoury complement to salads, cheese, and biscuits, as well as a delicious appetizer before almost any evening meal. It is perfect as a seasoning for meat, fish, or vegetables, or simply made into a paste with Palestinian extra virgin olive oil. No preservatives or additives are used in any part of its creation. Zaatar is high in anti-oxidants. In Palestine, “making zaatar” refers to baking oiled flatbread stuffed with newly gathered fresh zaatar and green onions. For many it is a seasonal rite as well as a communal cooking project, usually in an outdoor oven. For breakfast, people sprinkle the zaatar mixture on pita drizzled with olive oil, and eat it accompanied by mint tea. Zaatar can be used to marinate chicken and fish as well as grilled or roasted vegetables. It can be used for dips, sprinkled on labneh and hummos, eaten with feta cheese and olive oil, or served with pita chips and crudités. Palestinians seem to have an inherent knowledge of which foods and herbs are best suited to a particular situation, time, ailment, or celebration. Zaatar is believed to be an immune-system booster and an aid to digestion. Some claim that it relieves headaches and has antibacterial Fatayer Zaatar Recipe Dough: 3 cups white flour 1 teaspoon instant yeast 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon sugar 1/4 cup olive oil Filling: 2 to 3 cups fresh zaatar leaves (thyme), washed thoroughly 1 medium-size onion, finely chopped 1 tablespoon sumac 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons olive oil 18 raised me with a sense of duty and love for the family. However, I didn’t grow up cooking and didn’t realise that cooking was part of the many responsibilities of marriage. I moved into my husband’s home with only one recipe in my culinary repertoire: fried eggs. My first cooking experience was with rice. I filled the pot with the full 10-pound bag of rice not realising that it would double in size. The rice rapidly expanded while it cooked, resulting in lots of foam and an explosive boil-over. I slumped into a chair and cried about my lack of culinary skills. The stove and the kitchen floor took hours to clean and the rice ended up in the garbage bin. To my surprise, I was assured I’d be taught how to cook. This formed part of my cultural identity. I still learn something new in the Palestinian kitchen every day. My grandmother made many elaborate recipes in a flash; she was a fast and efficient cook. Her ability to produce traditional dishes amazed us. She added her own hints and touches to the dishes, which never failed to mesmerise us. My mother and grandmother live on through me and their recipes. Dough: In a medium-size bowl, combine flour, yeast, salt, sugar, and olive oil. Rub the mixture together until the oil is well combined with the flour. Gradually add one cup of warm water while kneading using one hand (add more water if the dough is dry or more flour if it is too sticky). Cover the bowl with a plastic bag and place it in a warm place for about 30 to 40 minutes or until doubled in size. Filling: In another bowl, combine zaatar (thyme) leaves, chopped onions, sumac, salt, and olive oil. Mix all together and set aside. Cut the dough to form three or four balls. Using a rolling pin, roll out each ball on a hard surface that is greased with olive oil until you make a paper-thin sheet of dough. Another option is to use your hands to punch down the dough until it becomes so thin that you can’t punch it further (don’t worry if the dough ends up with some holes). Add a pinch of zaatar stuffing and a pinch of olive oil to the dough sheet, fold two sides of the dough to the middle. Add another pinch of zaatar stuffing and fold the dough. Keep adding a pinch of zaatar and folding the dough until you can’t fold it any further. Place stuffed dough pieces on an oven tray greased with olive oil. Flatten the dough pieces with your hands. Place the tray in a preheated oven for about 10 minutes or until they become slightly brown or golden. Flip them over and leave them for another 5 minutes. It’s best when served hot to enjoy the crunchiness of the bread. This is usually served with fresh yogurt or tea. Palestinian girls, including myself, were eager to marry young and have children as did our mothers and grandmothers before us. My mother Rana Abdulla is a Palestinian Canadian from the village of Bal’a, Tulkarem. She is a Canadian Certified Public Accountant who graduated from Thompson Rivers University in British Columbia and St. Lawrence College in Ontario. Her career has been a blend of taxation, auditing, and refugee advocacy. She also taught accounting for college students at Algonquin College in Ottawa, Ontario. In addition to Arabic, she is fluent in French and English. 19 Food in Palestine Beyond the Calories By Márton Bisztrai Let me be personal and begin with my first and not really pleasant introduction to food in Palestine. I arrived in Bethlehem as a callow cultural anthropologist hungry for human contact and an introduction to the culture and society around me. The hospitality that I experienced was enthralling and at the same time overwhelming. Day by day I was invited to join different families for lunch, an immense pleasure at the beginning. But after a while it became shocking. At various dinner tables I found new friends, engaged in great conversations, and listened to exciting tales of both great happiness and struggles. Each family wanted to give their best and serve the food of the season that they felt was most representative of their culture. And so, I ate warak dawaly (stuffed grape leaves) and kousa (stuffed squash) almost every day for nearly two weeks. Food and nutrition are considered to be primarily biological needs, however, if this vision is unsatisfactory, we should apply new perspectives in order to examine what is on our plates. When we get closer to hummus, for example, many supplementary meanings are going to appear. It is almost a cliché in social sciences that nutrition is more than just protein, calorie intake, and culinary pleasure. Food is a symbol with countless layers of meaning that can carry and reflect both culture and identity. Gender issues, religion, power, loyalty, memories, and resistance can all be found in kitchens. For many, cooking is an art and eating is a ritual that can create a homey atmosphere or indeed the opposite, disgust and discomfort. Communities can identify themselves and mark their borders through food; and last but not least, food is politics. Photo by Márton Bisztrai. 20 Photo by Márton Bisztrai. My fantastic hosts worked a lot, spending precious hours to roll the grape leaves and stuff small zucchinis with rice and meat because of an alien who had suddenly entered their world. Every turn of a grape leaf was a gift that represented (using the universal language of food) their hospitality, identity, pride, and culture. For me, however, this hospitality quickly became too much of a good thing and this highly representative food soon became the only object that I would struggle to endure within Palestinian culture. On the other hand, food and drink is a perfect tool to connect us with abstract issues. After thoroughly inspecting the beer selection on offer at a local store in Ramallah, a foreign activist asked the shopkeeper in a friendly tone: “Why don’t you have Taybeh? All the imported, mass-market products are available, but Taybeh is missing!” A naive smile appeared on the owner’s face, and he replied: “Ah yes, all the foreigners like it.” So what can be concluded from this story? Does Taybeh beer have ingredients that suit foreigners’ tastes? Or are foreigners perhaps experts and able to detect the (otherwise real) differences between a bottle of Taybeh and the other available beverages? Probably both… But besides the taste and recognition of its quality, there is one more driving factor – Taybeh is uniquely Palestinian. While some Palestinians are indifferent to it and others are forbidden to drink it, this product of fermented malt and hops has essential meanings for Western visitors. In general, drinking alcohol divides work time from leisure time and is a frequently occurring custom in many Western cultures. Its practice provides conformity and a homey feeling even when one is far from one’s local environment. Parallel to this, it connects the consumer with the Palestinian struggle that can be a significant element of his identity. Taybeh gives an opportunity to link these factors together. In this case, drinking Taybeh beer instead of Maccabi (the Israeli brand) is an unconsciously or consciously occurring event of selfexpression: loyalty to Palestinians and the active rejection of Israeli policy. 21 is a variety of expropriation that carries the whole Palestinian-Israeli conflict. US President Barack Obama literally consumed it during his visit to Shimon Peres’ dining room when the first course of falafel and hummus was presented as “Israeli cuisine.” These delicious energy bombs of chickpeas and tahini are new examples of cultural colonialism. A new battlefield has opened in the Middle East. Nowadays falafel and hummus are served at diplomatic receptions, Harvard Business School balls, and even in the White House kitchen as Israeli food. In response to this, Palestinian chefs have protested, a Lebanese student has organised a campaign, and a Jewish author has written a complete book (Liora Gvion, Beyond Hummus and Falafel, 2012) in an attempt to show the “original roots” of hummus and falafel. It seems that the struggle for self-determination exists in food as well. Using food in building national identity is not an old concept; in fact, it could be said that it shares its age with nationalism itself (around 250 years old). The existence of locality, religion, gender, and class identity preceded the nationalised mindset. Now what is called “Palestinian,” after closer inspection, exposes a diverse cultural space that is coloured and divided by locality, religion, and class. Unequivocally, Jaffa is about fish, and the Jenin district (where the ingredients It is not surprising that food serves patriotic aspirations in Israel as well. Such a young entity with an extremely diverse society is hungry for a common national base. The newly created state is continually looking for legitimacy in religious history and constantly creating its modern mythology too. According to The Book of New Israeli Food (Janna Gur, 2007), Ben-Gurion in the fifties came up with an idea to manufacture a substitute for rice, which was in very short supply at that time. It is now called ptitim and labelled as a “unique Israeli invention.” This is how food is nationalised and made to be part of mythology. Nevertheless, jumping to another dimension, the “new invention from modern Israel” is just one of the various types of wheat products that stems from the “couscous family.” Older “uncles” can even be found all around the world. There is berkoukes in Algeria, fregula in Sardinia, tarhonya in Hungary, and maftoul in Palestinian cuisine. Although there is no discussion about the identity and symbolism of ptitim and maftoul, there is a real and current debate over hummus and falafel. Their consideration as “national Israeli products” symbolise the nature of the occupation in the eyes of the Palestinians. Hummus and falafel were considered to be the food of the poor for many centuries in the Levant, but now they are included in the “Israeli national kitchen” and are being labelled as the number one Israeli local food. It Nationalised hummus. Photo by Márton Bisztrai. 22 are easily accessible) is famous for musakhan, chicken on top of bread that is full of juicy fried onions. Mansaf comes from the southern region’s Bedouin culture (some say from Jordan). Meat and yoghurt, the basics of this dish are both derived from sheep. In addition, mansaf is considered to be a prestigious festive food that originated from a Muslim religious feast, the Eid al-Adha. It is the celebration of Abraham’s willingness to sacrifice his son Ishmael. Millions are regularly repeating what finally the prophet did by sacrificing a sheep in God’s glory. The actual prestige of sheep meat is not only because of its high price but also because of its association to religious identity and celebration; this is what gives it the extra value. Nutrition is a natural activity, which occasionally creates or draws borders between different social groups. Collapsing secularism and strengthening religious identity support the reappearance of old social borders within Palestinian society. Food and drink are greatly involved in this process. For example, alcohol consumption can be seen as a virtual cultural border between Muslims and Christians because it is forbidden for the former. In the district of Bethlehem, however, where the two groups live side by side, the reality and everyday practice can be quite different. Non-representative research indicates that 72 percent of a Christian-owned liquor store’s customers are Muslims. It even happens that a Muslim man buys Jewish kosher wine from the Christian shopkeeper. Despite these overlaps, there is, however, a certain type of food that is (with very rare exceptions) only consumed by the local Christians. Pork meat is taboo in both Judaism and Islam. Very few things would disgust their followers as much as pork does. Because of its rejection by Judaism and Islam it provides the perfect opportunity for a shrinking Christian society to differentiate themselves from both sides. One of the most ancient traits of the human character is that we organise and live our lives in the social groups of “them” and “us.” Pork meat consumption is a conscious or unconscious marker of “them” and “us” for Christians living in between Judaism and Islam. The way to a man’s heart is through his stomach – this universal proverb is frequently used by Palestinians as well. And now to conclude, let me add some changes to this proverb: One of the best ways to understand different cultures is through people’s stomachs. Visiting Palestinian kitchens is the most delicious “research” that I have ever conducted. Márton Bisztrai is a cultural anthropologist currently working on his PhD thesis at Eötvös Loránd University, Budapest. He spent two years in the Holy Land and conducted a participant observationbased research (mainly) on religious and national identity. 23 Chefs from Palestine The TWIP Collective Since the theme of this current issue of This Week in Palestine is “Culinary Experience,” we had initially thought of featuring one chef as Personality of the Month. This idea turned out to be considerably more complicated than we had anticipated, simply because there were so many high-calibre Palestinian chefs. In a bid to avoid being crucified, we asked several chefs to each write a few lines about himself and share a photo of one of his dishes. Incidentally, we were not able to find a woman chef, though we tried. It seems that it’s a man world when it comes to chefs, at least in Palestine. We suspect this is true all over the world. The following article attempts to shed light on eleven Palestinian chefs* who have left their mark on the industry and have a promising future of further excellence. They are certainly not the only chefs operating in Palestine; in fact, the more we dug, the more we heard about more chefs, but unfortunately, time and space are limited and Chef Ghassan Abdel Jawad Chef Ghassan Abdel Jawad is an executive chef and chefs’ trainer who specialises in Palestinian food heritage. He is currently involved in a cultural project of heritage food – an exchange programme between Palestine and the Golan Heights, supported by the Progressive Youth of the Occupied Golan. The theme of the project is “Unity of Thought, Will and Action.” Apart from that, Chef Ghassan trains and offers professional rehabilitation to a group of Palestinian ex-detainees. In order to promote Palestinian cuisine globally, he participated in making the largest platters of tabouleh and musakhan in the world. The tabouleh platter, in fact, made the Guinness Book of World Records. At the time, Chef Ghassan was the head chef at Zeit ou Zaater Restaurant in Ramallah. He also took part in the Vietnamese Food Festival and, on his own initiative, invited President Obama to a Palestinian lunch. Chef Ghassan is now working to establish the Palestinian Chefs Chef Ibrahim Abu Seir Chef Ibrahim Abu Seir was born in 1965 into a modest family in one of the beautiful old houses of the Muslim Quarter in the Old City of Jerusalem. He graduated from Terra Santa School and, and as the family owned an oriental sweet shop close to Damascus Gate, he spent the days of his childhood and youth in the streets of the Old City. After finishing his diploma in hotel management at Bethlehem University, Chef Ibrahim went back to his original talent of working with pastries and sweets with a new creativity enhanced by what he learned at the university as well as by working with international chefs and participating in various courses in France and Belgium. He also gained considerable experience working as a pastry chef at the David Citadel Hotel in Jerusalem and as a pastry instructor at Notre Dame of Jerusalem Center. Chef Ibrahim believes that his job as a pastry chef is important, but the goal of his life is to pass on his experience to the young 24 only allow us to feature these eleven. We sincerely apologise to those chefs out there who have not made it into our pages. This is by no means personal, and we hope to be able to acknowledge their work in a future issue. *in alphabetical order according to family name Union, which will comprise chefs from Jerusalem, the West Bank, and Gaza. He has presented various programmes on Palestinian radio stations with the view to consolidating the identity of Palestinian cuisine. Chef Ghassan is keen on protecting Palestinian heritage food, particularly since many items have been appropriated as Israeli food. generation of the city and to help them find good careers in order to strengthen their capacity to overcome the obstacles faced by the new generation of Jerusalemites and to raise the standard of pastry production in Palestine. 25 Chef Odeh Abul Hawa Chef Odeh Abul Hawa has been the executive chef at the Seven Arches Hotel in Jerusalem since 1989. Earlier he was the executive sous chef at the Jerusalem Intercontinental Hotel, the hotel where Odeh started his culinary career as a kitchen apprentice in 1971. He has worked through all kitchen organisation echelons, holding various positions within the kitchen brigade. He was also trained by multinational chefs, which helped shape his style and increase the depth of his knowledge. Chef Odeh has participated in sixty international competitions and food festivals, where he has been awarded cups, medals, and certificates. Chef Odeh filmed a culinary show with Palestine TV in 1990, and has done the same with other local television channels. The international personalities for whom Chef Odeh has prepared meals include the late President Yasser Arafat in Gaza, Francois Mitterrand, President Jimmy Carter, during the Chef Ammar Ahmad Chef Ammar Ahmad has always found joy in cooking. He launched his career at Crown Plaza-Amman as a cook. He is currently the head chef of the Movenpick Hotel Ramallah. On Fridays, he joins his chef colleagues in Family Friday on the terrace of Al Riwaq Restaurant. Families come with their children for lunch. The children spend their day cooking with the chefs and tasting their own creations. Chef Ammar loves to see the smile on their faces as they take their first bite. This is the reason he wanted to become a chef; he wanted to use food to draw smiles on the faces of his guests. At the Movenpick Hotel Ramallah, Chef Ammar was introduced to modern cooking techniques. He developed his professional skills and found himself living his dream career. He admits that although cooking brings him much joy, being a chef is just like any other profession; there are tough days too when the team could be serving a thousand guests simultaneously. During those Chef Nabil Aho Born in Jerusalem, Chef Nabil Aho – a certified hospitality educator since 1996 – has thirty years of professional experience in the culinary arts and specialises in hot kitchen and food production. He started as an apprentice in 1983, but worked hard to move up to become chef de partie and then executive chef while simultaneously working as a chef instructor at Bethlehem University and Notre Dame Center of Jerusalem’s Professional Promotion Hospitality Section. Chef Nabil strongly believes in broadening the public’s culinary knowledge and has been writing regularly about food in Al-Quds newspaper for the past five years. A colleague described Chef Nabil as a “culinary encyclopaedia” and, as such, he is active in offering consultancy services in culinary food and service to local hotels, restaurants, and culinary schools. Moreover, he is an active member and one of the founders of Chefs for Peace. Chef Nabil participates in local 26 Palestinian presidential elections, Warren Christopher, US Secretary of State, and many others. Chef Odeh is a part-time chef instructor at Notre Dame of Jerusalem’s Professional Promotion Hospitality Section. He cooks with passion and does his best to professionally produce food that will satisfy and please his guests. In addition to cooking for hotel guests and celebrities, Chef Odeh’s passion is to mentor younger chefs and help them discover their own talents. challenging days, the team is determined to ensure that the quality follows the trend and the high standards they have. The hard work at the hotel does not prevent him from tending to his land and taking care of his olive trees and grapevines. and international food festivals, such as the Slow Food Festival in Turin, Italy, and the Culinary World Cup in Luxembourg, where he received a diplome d’honneur. He also participated in a team competition at the International Open Air Cooking Championship and the Moldavian Culinary Cup-2012, where he won the silver medal and was also a culinary judge. 27 Chef Joseph Asfour Born, raised, and educated in the Golden City, Jerusalem, Chef Joseph comes with a packed bag, just like Saint Nicholas on Christmas Eve, yet Chef Joseph’s bag is packed with expertise in the theory and practice of food, beverage, and condiments processes. His education and knowledge, which started back in 1983, come from countless training courses in quality management for hotels and restaurants, marketing management, and human resources development, in addition to courses in food and beverages, where he developed a unique style among other chefs. His presentations are fashionable and eloquent. It is as if he communicates his love of food from his heart to yours. His outstanding knowledge of French, Italian, Irish, Palestinian, and other cuisines makes Chef Joseph a highly qualified artist. He is the founder of one of the most elaborate settings in Ramallah, Darna Restaurant. His work at Angelo’s Restaurant, the Red Crescent in Ramallah, and other localities, here and Chef Ahmad Ashayer Chef Ahmad started his career by working at the Hyatt Hotel back in 1989. During his work, he enhanced his culinary education at the Tadmor Hertzlia Academy. His experience at the academy earned him a Level 5 degree, qualifying him to become an executive chef. In 1992, he earned his culinary certification from the association of Young Chefs of Israel. Upon completion of his education, he worked at the Diplomat Hotel in Jerusalem and soon after at its branch hotel in Tel Aviv. Chef Ahmad’s most prominent accomplishments include working as executive chef at the Blue Dolphin Restaurant and being appointed Kitchen Executive Chef, responsible for setting up the food and beverage departments of the Legacy Hotel and The National Hotel during their inaugural events. He was also executive chef at the Jericho Intercontinental Hotel. Chef David Diedes Chef David George Diedes was born in Jerusalem on April 6, 1974. He attended St. George’s High School, where he graduated in 1991. After completing school, he attended the Notre Dame of Jerusalem Culinary Arts Program. He then went on to a full apprenticeship at Lausanne Palace in Switzerland. His basic training started in bakeries. Very early each morning, he produced all sorts of breads, croissants, and pastries, and then distributed the baked goods to hotels and shops all over the city of Lausanne. He later had the opportunity to work with top Swiss chefs and prepare thirteen-course meals for VIPs at the Lausanne Palace. Following his training at the Lausanne Palace, Chef David was hired at the American Colony Hotel. As a trainee, he survived long hours in the kitchen, where he gathered experience from the chefs who came from various countries to present their food. Chef David still works at the American Colony where he has become an executive chef. He has also been a chef instructor at Notre 28 overseas, has provided Chef Joseph with the knowledge he needs to present food of exquisite quality. Chef Joseph believes in quality rather than quantity on the plate. Chef Joseph has had the opportunity to serve his delicious creations to many presidents and dignitaries, such as the late President Yasser Arafat of the PLO, Mr. Mahmoud Abbas, the current head of the PNA, Russian President, Mr. Putin, US Secretary of State, Ms. Rice, former British prime minister, Mr. Tony Blair, the late Pope John Paul II, the former UN general secretary, Mr. Kofi Anan, Mr. Javier Solana, the famous American actor Mr. Richard Gere, and many others. Today Chef Ahmad is proud to be the executive chef at the Ambassador Hotel and considers it a blessing to be part of the Ambassador family. Dame since 2007. He finds joy in cooking Palestinian and Arabic dishes and aspires to make our Middle-Eastern cuisine a world pioneer. “Cooking is for everybody,” he says, “but perfection and completion of a dish comes from the love of cooking, which involves all our senses. Cooking is a combination of surf and turf, salt and sugar, sour and sweet, and fresh green herbs,” he concludes. 29 Chef Johnny M. Goric Chef Johnny Goric is the executive chef of the Legacy Boutique Hotel in Jerusalem. He teaches gastronomy and modern Mediterranean cuisine at the professional promotion centre of the Notre Dame Culinary School. He has worked in major chain hotels and other leading hotels throughout the world, and was an executive chef at the Intercontinental Hotel and Resort in Jericho. He is a member of the prestigious Chaine des Rotisseurs, and part of the Chefs for Peace team that cooks all around the world to promote peace in the region. He has participated in many international culinary competitions in Thailand, and the United States, Turkey, Luxemburg, and Romania where he won three gold medals and the golden cup in the Bucharest, Romania, Open-Air Cooking Competition in May 2010. Locally, Chef Johnny is the winner of a gold medal at the Palestinian Culinary Arts Competition in 2008, and served as a judge in the same competition in 2009. He successfully Chef Agustin Shomali Chef Agustin was born with his taste buds feasting on both Palestinian and Spanish culinary influences. From a young age, he kept his eyes and ears open in the kitchen, watching his Spanish mother prepare tortillas and his Palestinian grandmother prepare maftoul. Chef Agustin’s career started when he graduated from the Notre Dame of Jerusalem Culinary Arts Program, where he was taught by Palestinian culinary masters such as the late Chef Yacoub Salbis, Chef Joseph Asfour, and Chef Nabil Aho. He then found a small corner of the American Colony kitchen to learn the trades of mixing the inspirations of the Orient with the creativity of Western gastronomy. After his graduation, Chef Agustin participated in several international culinary courses in Spain, Italy, and France, not to mention various local courses in Bethlehem. He has also taught Chef George Srour Chef George Srour is an internationally recognised Palestinian chef. After obtaining a diploma in food and service from Notre Dame of Jerusalem Center, where he won the Award of Outstanding Academic Achievement, he was enrolled in a culinary art course at the Scuola Alberghiera di Rovereto School in Italy. He has gained professional experience and has worked for prestigious hotels and restaurants, such as the Casa Nova Palace Hotel in Bethlehem, and the American Colony Hotel. In 2009, he had the honour to cook for the Pope. He is currently the Italian chef at the Jacir Palace Intercontinental Hotel. Thanks to his culinary talents, Chef George has represented Palestine in local and international competitions, such as the Couscous Festival in Sicily in 2008 and 2009, and the three editions of the International Open Air Cooking Championship in Romania. He is also the first Palestinian chef to obtain a Certificate of Judging in Culinary Arts Contests by the World Association 30 represented Palestine at the Couscous Festival in Sicily and took first place in 2007, and best presentation in 2009. Chef Johnny’s career has given him the opportunity to cook for several major personalities, including King Abdullah II of Jordan, the late President Arafat, President Clinton, President George W. Bush, and many more. cooking classes for local women both in the classroom and on radio and TV. Chef Agustin’s path has taken him from Jerusalem’s kitchens through Spain’s Canary Islands specialty restaurants to being an executive chef at the new Ararat Hotel in Bethlehem and a chef instructor at Al Ahlieh School in Ramallah. Chef Agustin Shomali’s many inspirations encourage him to create his fusion cuisine with such mouth-watering inventions as the risotto makloubeh to funky trios of tartare and a delicious knafeh à la vanille that attract his faithful clientele from near and far. of Chefs Societies in Dubai. As a result of his work experience in prominent Italian restaurants in Italy, it is said that he has become the Palestinian Italian chef par excellence. Chef Srour is an ambitious chef who desires to pass on his knowledge through the cooking courses. He is also a member of the Emirates Culinary Guild and the World Association of Chefs Societies. He hopes to modernise Palestinian culinary traditions through his international approach and that cuisine is an excellent tool to attract tourism and raise awareness about Palestine. 31 Hilda’s Malban the midst of harsh and ever-changing realities. My aunt’s malban sheets, like our grandmothers’ maftoul drying under our sun, represent a significant political stance. They are saying that we still have a chance. Why? Because unlike many communities around the world that have been completely overtaken by gigantic companies such as Monsanto, multinational corporations, and junkfood establishments such as KFC and McDonalds, we still have many of our seeds and much of our knowledge that can enable us to create for future generations the same kind of sweet childhoods we had – of Dabuki grapes, loz (almonds), and Dafour figs. These baladi varieties are the source of our survival. They are literally the seeds of our inborn culture that has its roots deep in this terrain. Our grandmothers’ maftoul and my aunt’s malban are not folkloric images of a past life. They are living models: not of who we were but of who we still are, which is why we are a lucky generation who carries an enormous responsibility. But more good news suggests that while our responsibility is huge, fulfilling it is very simple – in fact, pleasurable. It involves eating well and indulging in our ancestral gifts of selected seeds and tested practices that have proven to be good for our health. We possess in our backyards and among our farmers the most essential and sought-after knowledge and raw materials. What is now globally known as top-shelf health foods with organic labels and fancy packaging is a lower-grade version of my aunt’s grape leather or Um Mohammed’s goat cheese, or Um Khalid’s zaatar, or Um Hikmat’s taboun, or my mother’s unforgettable yakhnee bitinjan. We have an easy task: to eat and to eat local baladi foods. But this simple task requires awareness and a kind of appreciation of our selves, our origins, and the soil that we are fighting for. And though malban takes days to make, and though it is much like our reality – sticky and slightly complex – it carries in its longevity the By Vivien Sansour White sheets covered with a brown spread of cooked grape juice hang every August off my Aunt Hilda’s balcony. It takes her more than three days to create a delicacy that ignites the palate with the intense flavours of qraish (pine nuts), sesame, and the refreshing zest of Palestine’s Dabuki grapes straight from her garden – all of which create the perfect fruit leather: malban. It has been more than 25 years since the last time my small fingers got caught up in the sticky spread as I tried to snip a taste off my grandmother’s malban sheets, which hung exactly in the same position, and off the same balcony. Back then, Beit Jala, my hometown, looked like the grounds of a visual competition of brown and white rooftop spreads of nut-mixed malban canvasses. Today, one would have to go on a malban hunt in order to find these magical carpets of saccharine delight. A once-thriving tradition has become a rare delicacy in a continuously changing and challenging reality of food production and consumption patterns. But in keeping this artisan ritual, Hilda does not complicate the process with philosophical concepts. She is doing what her mother-in-law, my grandmother, did before her; she is using the environment around her to create wholesome food to share with her family. Wrapping each piece of dried malban in brown paper, she sets aside several servings as gifts to be shipped to loved ones abroad. In a failed attempt to recreate the past, malban becomes the only way diaspora Palestinians from this village can taste, smell, and remember where they come from. But despite the inevitable nostalgia there is still the good news: malban and other culinary traditions like it are still alive – perhaps not as widespread as they once were, but they are here; and they not only represent the past, they are also part of a dynamic present that has proven to be perseverant in Malban in the making. 32 33 Malban hung to dry. DNA of our freedom. It contains the bundle of elements that enable us to be self-sufficient with the foods and seeds we grow and reproduce, allowing us – despite all odds – to remain independent while we enjoy what the world is progressively craving: a return to wellness. By the time you read this it will be grape season. Try making your own malban. You can use my Aunt Hilda’s recipe. cold grape juice with the semolina flour. Slightly and separately roast the sesame seeds and qrish (pine nuts) in a pan. As the boiling juice thickens, slowly add the flour and grape-juice mix while constantly stirring. Towards the end add the sesame and pine seeds. Prepare a place on your roof with bed sheets (using plastic is unhealthy and ruins the taste of malban). Take the hot malban mix and spread it evenly on the sheets. Make sure to choose a sunny day when you cook your malban. Depending on the sun, it takes from three to seven days for it to completely dry and be ready to tear off the sheets. Cut up the malban and store it somewhere cool so you can enjoy it all year round. Make sure to involve some children in the process. They love grapes and they will some day thank you as I do my aunt and grandmother. Happy Malban Season! Hilda’s Malban Ingredients: 5 kilos grapes ½ cup semolina flour 250 ml pine nuts 250 ml sesame seeds After picking the grapes, remove the fruit from the stems. Wash the grapes, then puree them in a blender. Strain the juice twice using a sieve or other straining device to make sure the juice is free of any coarse particles such as seeds and skin. Put aside one cup of the juice, and pour the rest into a big pot and boil. In a separate blender, mix the remaining Vivien Sansour is a lifestyle writer, producer, and photographer. She can be reached at [email protected]. Article photos by Vivien Sansour. 34 The Generous Wilderness of Yacoub al-Khayyat “I noticed that the darkest part of the night is the moment just before the light begins to appear,” says Yacoub al-Khayyat, standing in the middle of a meadow with a bouquet of wild plants, including spectacular thorns, delicate white and yellow flowers, fragrant laurel leaves, a cluster of small red berries called ‘ulleiq, and a sprig with tiny reddish “nuts” called botm, which are slightly larger than peppercorns. Yacoub is taking me and my companions to his ancestral village in Upper Galilee, Iqrit, which he sometimes refers to as al-waja’ al-habib, the beloved wound. He has pulled over to walk into what he calls his wilderness to pick a few wild things to offer us, his enchanted guests. “I experience my wilderness as I experience my kitchen, first by smell. I smell everything first.” He then rustles the laurel leaves, smells them, and offers them for us to inhale before inviting us to crunch the botm and ‘ulleiq. We are in love with the musky smell of laurel, the mildly peppery flavour of the botm, the still-tart ‘uleiq, and most of all with this man who embodies this swirl of smells and tastes that somehow connects to our own longings and emotions. We are moved in his presence. Moments before, we had eaten ‘ulleiq, botm, shomar – or wild fennel – and ‘iliq in a variety of spectacular dishes prepared by Yacoub in his small but vital restaurant in Rameh. We will come back to the food in a moment. Rameh is one of the Palestinian towns in Galilee that has remained, not been wiped out like Iqrit by military decree, and as such, Rameh is home to its original families as well as to many Palestinians from towns and villages like Iqrit who became internally displaced with the creation of the state of Israel in 1948. Iqrit’s story, along with that of Kufr Bir’im, is already known to many. Israeli forces entered the town in 1948, after By Riad Bahhur hostilities had ended, to find the people of Iqrit huddled in the church, hoping for protection from the horrors experienced in other nearby Palestinian villages. Military commanders asked the people of Iqrit to leave for two weeks “for security reasons,” allegedly because of Iqrit’s proximity to the Lebanese border. A promise of return was given and then broken. Two weeks, then two months, then two years passed. In the summer of 1950, an Israeli court ruled that the promise was legally valid and should be honoured. Still, Yacoub’s grandparents along with the rest of the people of Iqrit, were denied the right to return to their stillstanding village. On Christmas Eve, 1950, the village of Iqrit, nestled in a stunningly green and gentle landscape, was blown up by the state of Israel in order to prevent the return of its people to their homes. As young and old arrived for Christmas Eve prayers, they found their beloved homes and gardens in ruins. “I am willing to pay the price of seeing. The price is to feel this great pain,” says Yacoub as he sits on the stones of his grandfather’s house. He pours bitter coffee with cardamom into tiny cups and welcomes us. The coffee was made by Nidal and Jiryis, two young men who have decided to return to Iqrit without waiting for permission from the state that displaced their grandparents. They are joined by several other youths who sleep under the trees and stars and sometimes in the small room built on the side of the small church. They live a rustic life far away from the entertainments of other youth their age, eating off the land even though the Israeli army has uprooted every tree they have planted and destroyed every structure they have begun. When I asked Nidal what he liked most about living in Iqrit, he said quietly, “the calm.” They listen intently as Yacoub speaks. “My grandfather used to bring me to Iqrit when I was as young as five or six years old. He did not speak. He came to pick sabr (prickly pear) and 36 Destroyed village of Iqrit in Upper Galilee. The sun fades as we sit on those old stones. The meal we ate earlier is still sitting happily in our bellies. How can I do it justice in words? The cultivated ingredients are perhaps more familiar than the wild plants mentioned above, but it is the wild ingredients that animate the dishes that Yacoub creates. He takes the familiar eggplant, cauliflower, fava and garbanzo beans, lentils, yogurt, and eggs, and transforms them with the wild ingredients he forages on his meditative journeys throughout the year. Yacoub is generous. After all, he has shown us a slice of his wilderness and shared with us the smells and tastes he gathers from it. Yet there is a “secret” he laughingly refers to when I press him about how he is able to carry that pain. “Pain exposes many things – your weakness and your strength – at the same time. It also cleanses and washes you to reveal your core or your essence, if you have a core.” As he speaks, I have a picture of Yacoub’s grandfather in my mind. Not only Yacoub al-Khayyat, originally from Iqrit, now living in Rameh. I used to marmir (de-spine the sabr by rolling them with sticks on the ground). I remember feeling good that he was happy with how well I was removing the spines from the fruit.” Yacoub was born in 1956, eight years after the displacement and six years after the destruction of Iqrit. Although he never ate a meal in his grandparents’ house while it was still standing, he says, “I can smell what my grandmother would be cooking today. She is cooking a sauté of green favas with onions. It smells amazing. I can smell the olive oil, the onions, the favas, and I can smell her and see her in her dress, standing over the pan with a spoon.” 37 sheep’s-milk yogurt and topped with a fry of minced onions, ground wild sumac berries, and crushed dried mint. Of course we neither asked for a menu nor saw one, we just sat and waited with the excitement and anticipation of very hungry children. The sun has by this point set on our coffee grounds and on the stones of the destroyed homes of Iqrit as Yacoub shares one of his poems. Addressing a child, perhaps his 5-year-old self, he says, “Do not fear the darkness, for darkness is the mother of light, just as a tiny seed gives birth to shade.” We sit quietly for a moment and reflect on the Arabic word for shade, fayy, which evokes so much his face, but also his silence, with the boy by his side arranging the sticks for his task of rolling the spines off the cactus fruit. They work quietly, side by side, before taking their harvest back down the hill to share with the rest of the family. It is harder to imagine how they ate the fruit in their new exile – did they eat silently? What were they thinking as the sweetness splashed on their tongues? How do you describe the flavour of so much loss? Around the table of Yacoub’s small restaurant, Sharabeek, my friends and I ate a perfectly creamy pudding of an eggplant that had been roasted and scooped out of its skin, then covered with a layer of light, fluffed tahineh, under Dishes from Yacoub al-Khayyat’s restaurant in Rameh. more than the English word shade. Fayy is relief for the tormented, balm for the wound, and God’s grace in the face of a fiery sun. I ask Nidal and Jiryis what they hear in Yacoub’s poem. The young Jiryis looks reassuringly into Yacoub’s eyes and speaks confidently with a voice that has found its core in the silence of a beloved wound: “Ihna al-fayy. We are the shade.” another layer of crushed ‘ulleiq berries with their juice elegantly draped over the tahineh cloud, topped with the freshest and most fragrant green mint I have ever tasted. There was a plate of ‘iliq, or wild dandelion greens, cooked simply to perfection and blessed with a squeeze of lemon before being devoured. Yacoub gathers the ‘iliq from several locations throughout the spring and early summer. Savory brown lentils were sautéed with wild fennel leaves and onions, a heavenly combination. There is no telling how he gets his cauliflower to the sweet point of caramelisation every time without disappointing, or whether today he will prepare shamameet, eggs poached in Riad Bahhur teaches, writes, and makes films. He is currently working on a documentary film that features Palestinian food and agriculture. He can be reached at [email protected]. Article photos by Vivien Sansour. 38 From the Bosom of the Earth to the Bounty of the Table By Daphne Muse Let us break bread together on our knees (on our knees). Let us break bread together on our knees (on our knees). When I fall on my knees with my face to the rising sun, O Lord, have mercy on me. Excerpt from traditional African American Hymn From the earth’s maternal bosom sprouts the seed that produces a grain that’s been pounded, milled, and ground into a nourishing substance found on the tables of billions of homes around the world for thousands of years. With every loaf or round comes a story. Out of ovens, off stove stops, and from rounds, it goes from seed to Hungarian rye; naan, an oven-baked flatbread from India; or injera, a spongy and absorbent bread from Ethiopia. I grew up at a time when the smells emanating from the house were not commercial air-fresheners, the off-gassing of chemicals from the furniture, or the smell of a pop-tart being nuked in a microwave. Our home was filled with the rising of yeast rolls, hot-water cornbread, or spoon bread fresh out of a summer oven. Bread is an icon with a history that dates back some 30,000 years. With almost every loaf, round, or biscuit, there comes a story. I’ve rarely met a bread I didn’t like. I’ve shared bammy at tables in Jamaica, brioche with a family in France, and fry bread with Navajos in Arizona. Fry bread, a staple with a controversial history, was invented when First Nations people like the Navajos were relocated to reservations and allocated rations of flour, sugar, and lard. While bread, like so much of our food, has been corporatised, for billions of mostly women around the world, its preparation remains a daily practice and not relegated to some cultural memory. Somehow the lack of bread at the table makes the meal feel incomplete and creates a missing link to a world that once nourished us so differently. It remains a staple in homes, markets, and restaurants from Ramallah to Gaza and Hebron to Jericho; the aromas of khoubiz, kmaj, and ka’ak still waft from stones and tabouns (ovens). Bread is so iconic that within the African American vernacular, bread used to be referred to as a synonym for money. “Man, how much bread you got on you?” was a commonly heard refrain in many a black community in the twentieth century. From the United States to El Salvador and Ireland to Egypt, there are so many in the world still struggling to make their daily bread. The battle to bring bread to the table has taken on David and Goliath proportions as big corporations such as Monsanto muscle their way into the control and domination of seeds and farming. As access to daily bread becomes more difficult, valued traditions, economies, and diets of people across the globe are destabilised. According to Scott Alves Barton, adjunct professor at the Institute of Culinary Education (NYC), executive chef/culinary in Salvador, Bahia Brazil, 40 of a superb gumbo. I so look forward to the day when I sit at the table in Ramallah or Jericho and share a’ja with a family and in turn make cornbread infused with freshly grated corn, dill, and hot peppers. The aromas coming from that kitchen are bound to be soothing and will create memorable touchstones on my palate. For me, breaking bread, like sharing tea, is just so very civilising. “Bread is big here too, but we also have coconut, corn, sweet potato, manioc, and other tuber/starch-based breads with varying degrees of wheat; a typical diasporic pantry. Wheat bread came with the Portuguese colonisers to be able to celebrate the (Catholic) sacrament.” My curiosity was piqued while watching a segment on DW Journal (German Television) which focused on the fact that many types of bread are now premade and sit in warehouses for months at a time, prior to being shipped to cafes, grocery chains, and restaurants for baking. In many cultures in Asia, Africa, and the Middle East, bread is used as an eating implement, to gather up the meal into mouth-sized pockets for eating: naan to absorb the flavours of a majestic curry; injera to capture the spice of a doro wat; and corn bread to sop up the magical roux Daphne Muse is a writer, poet, and social commentator. Her work has appeared in This Week in Palestine and The Washington Post, and has aired on NPR. She is the author of four books and spent six years writing for the Office of Education at the Commission on Major League Baseball. She blogs at www. daphnemuse.blogspot.com and can be reached at [email protected] or daphnemuse.blogspot.com. 41 Maqloubeh – Made in Italy By Nicola Hazboun Panzanella is the name of a rustic summer dish that originated years ago in the wonderful Italian Tuscany. This poor dish does not require any cooking and was always consumed in fields, especially by those Italian farmers who, at that time, stayed away from their houses for the whole day. The main ingredients of panzanella are stale bread and small pieces of tomatoes, cucumbers, and red onions, in addition to basil, and seasoned with salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil. Does it remind you of something? Is it Italian-style fattoush? Well, yes. Except that in panzanella, the bread is soaked, whereas in fattoush, it is crunchy. Moreover, mint is used in fattoush instead of panzanella’s basil. Another difference is that sumac is sometimes added to fattoush, whereas the red spice is not even known among Italians – at least not among those Italians who have yet to visit Le Rotte Ghiotte. The similarities and differences between panzanella and fattoush represent the concept that lies behind the idea of Le Rotte Ghiotte, literally translated as “The Tasty Routes,” an Italian restaurant that is managed by a Palestinian family. Le Rotte Ghiotte – named the best restaurant in Arezzo at the Mangia & Bevi contest in 2013 – is a culinary voyage around the Mediterranean where the mix of culinary cultures has proven itself to be an enjoyable and authentic experience in exploring the commonalities among Palestinians, Lebanese, Syrians, Turks, Greeks, North Africans, Spanish, French, and Italians and in admiring the differences imposed on each culinary culture by the nature of its own land and the touch of its own people. Palestinian and half Tuscan. He brought it to Arezzo after having observed his grandmother Helen as she prepared it for the whole family in our house in Madbaset Bethlehem. I visit Le Rotte Ghiotte every Saturday, arriving around 5 pm, when my cousins Shady and Tamer are waiting so that we can do the boring accounting work together and begin the brain-consuming process of evaluating the restaurant and figuring out what should be done next. The heaviness of challenges and difficulties all fade away when, at around 8 pm, clients start to flow in and the fragrances of the Spanish paella and Greek souvlaki start mixing with the perfumes of qidreh and falafel. After a while comes the highpoint of the evening when Chef Shady leaves his kitchen to check on his guests and explain to them the origins of what they just had for dinner, weaving together the facts into stories. This scene never ceases to bring to mind all the times that I would sit with Shady, Tamer, my brother, and my other cousins to enjoy a delicious meal prepared by our grandmother in Bethlehem. Just like panzanella and fattoush there is a lot to observe when introducing the Italian public to La Piadina del Msakhan, which is made with chicken, onions, sumac (a Middle Eastern red spice), and extra-virgin Tuscan oil wrapped in an Italian piadina. Msakhan is a Palestinian dish that is made in Italy by Chef Shady, who is half A young, professional, and dynamic team at Le Rotte Ghiotte. 42 43 The weekly Social Cooking classes at Le Rotte Ghiotte. Maqloubeh - Made in Italy. A young, professional, and dynamic team, a Mediterranean menu that changes every three months in order to ensure the freshness of in-season ingredients, the attention to detail and to the needs of our guests, and the many theme events and social cooking classes are the elements that characterise the unique dining experience of Le Rotte Ghiotte. “From Palestine to Arezzo, the Kings of Restaurants and Pizzerias” is the title of the local newspaper article that announced Le Rotte Ghiotte as the winner of the 2013 Best Restaurant Contest in the city and province of Arezzo. The title of the article, especially the first part of it, led me to understand that one more successful element of Le Rotte Ghiotte is the authenticity of its simple identity as Palestinian. Nicola Hazboun is a Palestinian management engineer who has been living in Italy for the last 11 years. He is co-owner of Le Rotte Ghiotte in addition to working as an export sales and marketing manager for Boscarini multinational group of polyethylene piping system manufacturers. He can be reached at [email protected]. Palestinian mjaddarah at Le Rotte Ghiotte. 44 The Sweet Taste of Palestine By Lana Shehadeh As we were growing up abroad, my parents constantly tried to keep my siblings and me in tune with our Palestinian culture. From my mother’s point of view, Palestinian culture was an amalgamation of Arabic poetry, Palestinian embroidered dresses (thobe), an understanding of the history of Palestine, and knowledge of our religion. From my father’s point of view, Palestinian culture and being in touch with my father’s Palestinian heritage meant one word and one word only…. Zalatimo. During every summer vacation and holiday, my father would take us to the Old City of Jerusalem every chance he got. Getting to Jerusalem from my hometown of Silwad (Ramallah) was a bit of a hike. By the time we got through the hour-long checkpoints and security stops on the way, my siblings and I would sigh at the sight of the large walls of the Old City. We would race through the narrow roads of Al-Quds to make sure we got to Zalatimo on time. Over the years we learned that the Zalatimo bakery opened at the crack of dawn and shut it doors at noon. We bumped into people, pushed our way through the large crowds, dodged fruitand-vegetable stands, and laughed as we heard the creative songs that the produce merchants would chant to encourage people to purchase their goods. As we ran through the Old City our excitement would build; I remember feeling my mouth watering just thinking about the smell of those pastries, the taste of the sweet syrup, and that melted cheese. I would scream to my dad, “I get the first one!” We knew that all the pastries were made fresh, right in front of our eyes, so it always took time to bake and we would all fight over that first piece of Zalatimo. Today, as I walk through the Old City, it is different. Everything in Palestine is constantly changing. The occupation has taken its toll on Palestine and you can see it in all areas of life. There are more settlements, fewer Palestinian homes, more Israeli flags hung throughout the Old City, and even higher security measures at the checkpoint. The Old City of Jerusalem is empty – the city that for years was buzzing with Palestinians from all over doing some shopping and paying their respects to the holy city. I remember running through its narrow streets unable to move two feet without bumping into someone. Today, the narrow roads are clear. You can spot a few tourists here and there but not many Palestinians. The only Palestinians you see are the Jerusalemites who live in the city. The Jerusalemites are the inhabitants who are in constant struggle to keep Palestinian identity grounded in the city of Jerusalem. The only thing in the Old City that is familiar to me is the little bakery that was always my dad’s priority. As I spot the rusted metal doors of the bakery, my mouth begins to water. I can smell the syrup that’s poured on the pastries, I can picture the crunchy sweet texture with powdered sugar sprinkled all over it. I make my way through the doors; the bakery has only two customers. The first familiar face I see is Hani’s. He looks the same, the colour of his hair is a mixture of black and white. He seems to have aged since the last time I saw him. He looks the same, though, and just like I remember, he is completely preoccupied with his pastries and perfecting their texture. Just spotting the rusted doors and seeing a glimpse of Hani brings back many childhood memories. Family Recipe Lives On Hani carries on flipping his dough and ensuring that it is as thin as possible. 46 Mr. Zalatimo preparing the famous motabbak. but business is very bad. In the past our bakery was always filled with customers. But after the Intifada and the road closures, Palestinians are unable to come to Jerusalem and we have fewer and fewer customers every year. My brothers are in Ramallah, and they run the Ramallah location on Al-Irsal road,” says Hani, eager to give me directions to all their locations. According to Hani, the ingredients are very simple: paper-thin dough, sweet, white Arabic goat cheese, sugar syrup, and powdered sugar on top. As delicate as they are, these ingredients have stood the test of time and continue to mark Jerusalem as Palestinian. I hope that Hani and his family continue to serve their paper-thin motabbak for many years so that I and many others like me will continue to pass on the experience to our children and their children and to many Palestinian generations to come. Getting the dough that thin is a work of art on its own. One can easily recognise the need for skill to accomplish such a feat. He smiles as I spot him throwing the dough in the air and wrapping it around his hand. “My father taught me how to make motabbak (a popular cheese-stuffed pastry). He learned from his father, who learned from his father. Our recipe goes back more than two hundred years,” explains 30-year-old Hani, who is also known as Abu Samir. Hani, like his family of Zalatimo, is originally from the Old City of Jerusalem. He says his great-grandfather, Mohammad Zalatimo, learned the recipe of motabbak in Lebanon and brought it back to Jerusalem. As his pastries became popular, people started to call this special motabbak by the family name: Zalatimo. “I run the bakery in the Old City, Lana Shehadeh is a research officer with BBC Media Action in Ramallah. She works on content research, quantitative and qualitative research, and audience recruitment for debate programmes on the BBC. Lana also writes frequently for the BBC, Al-Monitor and This Week in Palestine. You can follow her on @ Lana_Shehadeh. 47 Noor Women’s Empowerment Group One of our first cooking classes. Both men and women are very welcome! Noor Women’s Empowerment Group is a grassroots, economically independent project that was created in 2010 by and for refugee women from Aida and Al-Azzeh refugee camps (Bethlehem) with the help of some volunteers. We who participate in the project are in charge of our families, and most of us have a disabled child. Besides having to deal with social stigma, we face economic issues that prevent our children from getting adequate care. Noor started with a Mothers’ Club that met regularly. Our first victory was to buy big quantities of nappies for our disabled children from a factory in Hebron. By buying in bulk, we paid a much lower price, allowing us to save a lot of money. However, we soon realised that in order to provide educational and recreational activities for our disabled children, we needed to raise funds. Twice a month we organise cooking classes for those who want to learn to cook traditional Palestinian dishes. We gather at our kitchen in Aida Camp and among vegetables, spices, olive oil, and zaatar, we all learn about food, Palestine, refugees, and life in the camps. When the food is ready, we eat together and then go for a tour around Aida Camp. Preparing krass with spinach while drinking coffee. We also offer home stays to individuals or groups who want to experience the famous Palestinian hospitality, make new friends, and learn some Arabic. With the help of international volunteers, we improve our English and participate in workshops on topics that range from nutrition and health to computer skills. Above all, the most important thing Noor has taught us is that together we are more able to find solutions to our everyday problems. There are many ways you can get involved and support our project! Join one of the classes, get a copy of Zaaki (our recipe booklet), stay with a family in the camp, teach us English, or help us organise leisure activities for our disabled children. Islam Abu Aouda is Noor’s coordinator. She lives in Aida Camp together with her six children and husband. You can contact Noor at noorweg.aida@gmail. com and check out our blog at noorweg. wordpress.com. Photos courtesy of Noor Women’s Empowerment Group. 48 Healthy Culinary Sessions for a Long, Healthy Life By Riham Jafari One of the components of UNRWA’s “Life is Sweeter with Less Sugar” diabetes and high blood pressure campaign is teaching healthy culinary skills to Palestine refugee women through the cooking-sessions initiative. These sessions will be implemented by the UNRWA health programme in cooperation with the Women’s Program Center in eight refugee camps in the West Bank. Cooking sessions will be held twice a week over a period of six months. The UNRWA health programme launched this campaign to mark World Health Day on April 7, as a way to combat diabetes and hypertension among Palestine refugees. The campaign also includes training health staff in screening methods and techniques. In addition, the healthy culinary sessions provide practical information sessions facilitated by a senior nutritionist as well as counselling, follow-up, and other forms of support. The healthy culinary sessions initiative is based on recent research conducted by the Women’s Health Program that indicated that 73.8 percent of the patients who were interviewed used an estimation measurement for adding oil during cooking whereas 26.2 percent used a measuring spoon. Estimating measurement during cooking Healthy eating does not mean following nutrition guidelines and abstaining from the food we love. It is about having energy and feeling good. Learning how to prepare healthy food is crucial to fostering healthy lifestyles and preventing non-communicable and other diseases. In addition to medical treatment and screening in order to address diabetes and hypertension among Palestinian refugees, community-based organisations need to be engaged in teaching healthy culinary practices. During 2011, UNRWA (United Nations Relief and Works Agency for Palestine Refugees in the Near East) health clinics provided high blood pressure and diabetes care for 211,533 Palestine refugees through its network of 139 health clinics in the occupied Palestinian territory, Lebanon, Syria, and Jordan. High blood pressure and diabetes commonly occur together, with 45 percent of diabetes patients diagnosed with sustained high blood pressure. Since 2001, high blood pressure/diabetes cases have more than doubled. If left untreated, they will increase the risk of developing cardiovascular disease, blood vessel damage, stroke, and heart and kidney failure. For this reason, it is important to focus on preventative steps and community efforts regarding nutrition to enhance access to healthy food and preventative and treatment services for Palestine refugees. The initiative of healthy culinary sessions aims to enhance the healthy culinary skills of Palestine refugee women and engage the Palestine refugee community in increasing preventative care for patients with non-communicable diseases. It will also promote awareness and health education for patients in general and their families. Engaging women in communitybased organisations in the camps will facilitate healthy dietary behaviours and improve the production and consumption of a wide range of nutritious food. 52 “I am very happy with the work I am doing here. I help these women take care of themselves and empower them to look after their own health as well as that of their entire family. She continues, “Healthy cooking has also helped many families decrease their monthly expenses.” Sana Adawi, 40, of Al-Arroub Camp says, “Women can now be the doctors of their families.” These healthy cooking sessions provide increased awareness and beneficial information. “We usually use recipes that have been passed down from our mothers and we have gotten used to them. These new recipes help us to look after our health, as do the exercises we learn at the sessions. These classes have provided physical, psychological, and social benefits.” Jamila Abdullah, 51, agrees. “I suffer from diabetes and these sessions have been psychologically very beneficial for me. This new information has made me feel relaxed. I now know more about my illness.” is considered to be an unhealthy practice that can contribute to the development of obesity and chronic diseases. The sessions contribute to changing cooking practices among refugee women who bear the primary responsibility for grocery shopping and cooking meals. The refugee community in general and refugee patients with non-communicable diseases should be a part of the solution. The best way to deliver preventative services is to engage the refugee community and UNRWA health partners. Offering healthy culinary sessions in refugee camps is one of the creative ways that are being used to change some typical unhealthy cooking practices such as overuse of salt, hydrogenated fats, and food additives, as well as poor packaging methods. It is hoped that this initiative will lead to longer life expectancy among refugees. Quotations from Women Alaa Al-Amla, a nutrition specialist, works with the women of Al-Arroub Camp on healthy-eating informational cooking classes. She has been leading the healthy cooking sessions with a special focus on diabetes, weight loss, and decreased oil consumption. Riham Jafari works at the UNRWA Public Information Office/West Bank Field Office. She can be reached at r.jafary@ unrwa.org. Women in the UNRWA health clinic in Al-Arroub are taking practical cooking lessons about preparing healthy food with a nutrition specialist. 53 Personality of the Month Notre Dame of Jerusalem Center in close cooperation with Dublin College of Catering. The programmes became jointly accredited by Bethlehem and Dublin. In addition, several exchange programmes were implemented that created unique opportunities for many Palestinian tourism professionals to train in Ireland and other European countries. On many occasions, Mr. Dajani was able to organise several courses with internationally renowned culinary and catering experts who travelled to Bethlehem and Jerusalem to train hundreds of Palestinian students. In addition, he coordinated many programmes that targeted industry graduates, housewives, and professionals. Mr. Dajani built a strong relationship between the Institute and the private sector. His approach identified the gaps between supply and demand in the market and responded to the industry’s emerging needs and trends. Guest-speaker programmes and industry placements were a major part of the educational curriculum at the Institute. In early 1990, he was appointed head of the tourism delegation in the negotiations with the Israeli side for the handover of the tourism file from the civil administration to the Palestinian Authority and was later appointed to the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities. During the same period he was named chairman of the multilateral talks on tourism hosted by the Japanese government. In 1997, Mr. Dajani retired from academic life after 25 years of service to the education sector and the Palestinian tourism industry, and became fully involved in the family business afterwards. Mr. Dajani, is convinced that the tourism industry will continue to constitute the backbone of the Palestinian economy through job creation and foreign currency earnings. The industry is labour intensive and the Palestinian hospitality industry will always be recognised for its unique product offering and cost differentiation. He believes that automation and services upgrade will always present a challenge to operators, investors, and owners within the Palestinian tourism industry. Abu El Walid Dajani Abu El Walid Dajani was born in Jerusalem in 1944 and studied at De La Salle High School in the Old City of Jerusalem. Mr. Dajani was fortunate to study in one of the most prestigious hotel schools in Switzerland. He joined Bethlehem University in 1973 and established the Institute of Hotel Management. Over the years at the university he established several specialised programmes, some of which became very popular through videoconferencing, such as “Tourism for Peace,” in partnership with international universities actively involved in spreading tourism education through videoconferencing. This enabled Palestinian students to benefit from the programme without having to incur the expense of travelling aboard. As they sat in their classrooms on the Bethlehem University campus, the students were able to attend lectures delivered by international experts in various countries. The interaction between the lecturer and the students was extremely productive. Many of the graduates of the Institute of Hotel Management hold prestigious positions around the world and continue to touch base with their mentor to solicit advice on career moves and investment opportunities in the industry at large. Mr. Dajani was instrumental in the establishment of the training centre at 54 Photo by Emile Ashrawi. Artist of the Month Reem Talhami Interviewed by Manar Harb Reem Talhami was born in Shefa Amr, in northern Palestine. At the age of 17, she moved to Jerusalem to study at Hebrew University, where she obtained her BA in music and voice training in 1996 from the Rubin Academy of Music. She has given concerts in most Palestinian towns and villages and has participated in numerous festivals locally and in Egypt, Tunisia, Lebanon, Syria, Bahrain, Morocco, and many European countries. She has produced several cassettes and CDs in cooperation with various music groups, such as Washem and Sabreen, and has taken part in theatre productions and children’s musical plays in Palestine. Yihmilni Elleil (The Night Carries Me), her new album, was released on April 11, 2013, in Jerusalem. The official album-release took place at a special concert event on Thursday night, April 25, in Gaza. To celebrate and extend this moment, we are featuring Reem in our limelight section. I had the pleasure of speaking with her and exchanging e-mails, which resulted in this interview. Listening to Reem has given me courage and brightened my spirits after the agony I felt when leaving Palestine, remembering Gaza, and winter 2008. Celebrating her accomplishments and work, including her latest album, gives a 56 push of strength. She has been featured here before, and I am honoured to present her again as Artist of the Month. This interview comes just after your new album, Yihmilni Elleil, was released. Tell us about the experience of this album. What are the themes you sing about and what events triggered and inspired the making of this work? Gaza is the spirit of the album. Connecting with Khaled Juma, a prolific poet from Gaza, started the whole process. When Saed Murad joined forces with us, it became obvious that the songs would reach new heights. For years, Gaza was before my eyes. I was overcome with intense feelings of impotence and paralysis in front of the Gaza Strip and its people, especially after the last two attacks served to prolong the suffocating and stifling situation for Palestinians in their own homeland. I became even more convinced that I needed to do something from my position as an artist and a Palestinian. The team effort and working with Khaled Juma’s songs made my vision clearer. Our lyrics have begun to create new perspectives on the current situation in Gaza. In the ten songs of the album, you will listen to life, love, hope, beauty, and a taste of sorrow that goes side by side with contemplation and celebration of life. The city that we desire is revealed piece by piece, and our Gaza comes to light. What new collaborations have taken place to enable the production of Yihmilni Elleil? For the first time in my life, I took the initiative to embark on my own music project and deal with all the details that were required. I wrote down every single detail and learned every lesson. The written project won two grants, one from The Palestinian Cultural Fund of the Ministry of Culture and the other from the A.M. Qattan Foundation – a grant in the category of performing arts. I was grateful and proud. Sabreen Association carried out the production of the album. suddenly became the only right thing out there! Gaza is handing life to us all. Nowadays, I am doing an albumlaunch tour throughout Palestine. We started in Gaza and moved through Al-Khalil, Nablus, Jenin, and Ramallah before going on to Shefa Amr, Haifa, and Jerusalem. The meetings I have with people give me the chance to talk about the various aspects of my work: lyrics, music, Gaza, the role of art, and so on, which give some idea of the nature of these songs and how they can change or develop. Later I will continue the album-launch tour in other Arab countries if things go smoothly. Given that Palestinians face endless restrictions and barriers, I want to bring my songs to them rather than expect them to come to me. This step is a must for me, and the big concert tours will have to wait a little longer. I need to consider other ways to perform my songs, and that will require more time and money. Saed Murad composed and arranged the songs, and we recorded the voice and music at Sabreen Studio in Jerusalem. The process enabled the work to move forward. I hope it continues to move forward, develop, and progress. What was it like to perform in Gaza, and what’s the next step? It was one of the most inspiring, joyful, and exciting times of my life. At that moment, for us all, the audience and myself, it felt as if the siege were over! There were no barriers or obstacles. Meeting Khaled Juma for the first time in person was one of the greatest moments in my life. I never thought that this would happen so soon. The entire collaboration process between us, and later with the composer Saed Murad, was done via Internet, and we managed that for the whole period of the production. Every single moment of my stay in Gaza was filled with love, generosity, and inspiration. On stage, singing to Gaza, the city that seems to be present at the wrong time and in the wrong place, To continue reading the interview, please go to the online edition at: www. thisweekinpalestine.com. 57 Book of the Month El-Haddad and Maggie Schmitt take us straight into Gazan homes and kitchens where women such as Addoula, Um Imad, and Um Hana cook daily and put heart-warming Palestinian soul food on their tables. The food tells the story of a people largely marginalised and forgotten. Um Imad, a refugee from Beit Tima near al Majdal (Ashkelon today), reminisces about her destroyed village as she makes Kishik Beit Tima; here kishek is no longer a type of dried yogurt but a manifestation of the past in the present. The diverse cuisine comes from the large refugee population that came to the strip in 1948. The book goes beyond that. It documents slow food, the sad state of uprooted olive tree groves, nutrition and its challenges in Gaza, UNRWA aid, and agriculture, and it bravely brings to the forefront of everyone’s mind the daily struggles of living under a complete blockade. In its folds, El-Haddad and Schmitt not only tell a human story but also address political issues head-on, for example, food rations, tunnel smuggling, and food appropriation. It does not shy away from exposing the blatant Israeli hijacking of Palestinian and Arab cuisine and its appropriation into Israeli culture. The Gaza Kitchen also brings out the rhythmic beauty of Gazan cooking. Very few recipes in the book begin without “Using a mortar and pestle (zibdiyyeh), crush…” A zibdiyyeh is the most basic tool in the Gazan kitchen; it is made of red clay and costs around 50 cents. While salads are usually tied to the act of chopping, in Gazan cuisine, ingredients for salads are crushed and mixed together, making the taste entirely different and more aromatic. Cooks interviewed in this book made a point of commenting on their zibdiyyat, with some proudly mentioning that they have had the same zibdiyyeh for twenty years. The book is perfectly punctuated with vibrant pictures that put a clear human face to the cooks behind the recipes. The book is available for purchase online at www. justworldbooks.com. The Gaza Kitchen: A Palestinian Culinary Journey By Laila El-Haddad and Maggie Schmitt Just World Books, 2013, 140 pages, $29.00 In their book The Gaza Kitchen: A Palestinian Culinary Journey, Laila ElHaddad and Maggie Schmitt bring Gaza straight into our hearts and kitchens. It is a delicate reminder that in this tiny, overpopulated, incredibly scarred piece of land lives the collective of Palestinian history, and one of the most tantalising cuisines that can be offered. The recipes are beautiful, comprehensive, and representative of the various areas that the refugee population came from in 1948. All are exquisite. But the book is not just beautiful recipes. It tells a story of human survival and perseverance. Isolated from the world by the Israeli blockade, Gaza has been reduced to nothing but a map scarred with bullet holes and white phosphorus residue. Suffocating under a barely breathing economy, an ailing ecology, and a gripping poverty, it is difficult to imagine Gaza with a human face. Leila 58 Website Review http://www.nakheelpal.com By Abed A. Khooli Review date: June 14, 2013 Three brands are listed under Products: Jericho Dates, Barhi Dates, and Mooncity Dates, each leading to details and packing choices. Gallery provides a series of pictures from the lifecycle of production: ripe dates, growing, cultivation, collection, and packing. The last menu item, Buyer Info, requires registration or login for some reason. One can spot submenus such as Product Specifications, Box Dimensions, Palletization, Conservation, Quality Assurance, and Shipping & Delivery. The content area has some introductory text and a few thumbnails from the gallery. A sidebar has a few items under the News heading to the right. The footer has a small image of the packing factory and links to the company Instagram and Facebook accounts in addition to fine-print notes (copyright, designer, privacy policy, and affiliations). Nakheel website is simple and informative. The site could become more user-friendly by increasing font size, fixing the layout of menu items, and providing general buyer information for public access. Nakheel (Arabic for palm trees) is a private Palestinian company located in the Jericho area. Nakheel was founded in 2010 and specialises in growing, packing, and exporting dates. The company website is available in English (default) and Arabic. The homepage uses a simple layout with a header stripe, a banner area, and a menu bar followed by the content area. The language switch is at the top left and the site name and logo are located to the right. The banner area has three sliding graphical parts: Brands opens by default and shows three known date varieties. The other two vertical tabs – Packing House and Farms – open on mouseover. Clicking either the tab or the image navigates to a new page with additional information. The main menu lies under the banner area. Home links back to the main page and also has a submenu (Contact Us) that displays contact information and an e-mail Web form. This submenu is a little tricky to display. The second menu, Nakheel, provides background information about the company and is divided into two submenus: About Us (history, activities, and mission) and Chairman Message (shareholders briefing with plans and statistics). Abed A. Khooli is a SharePoint, BI, and Web development specialist. He can be reached at [email protected] (www.arabic2000.com). 60 Exhibition Review Otherwise Occupied Palestine Represented at the Venice Biennale May 29 – August 31, 2013 The opening of “Otherwise Occupied,” at the Venice Biennale. “Otherwise Occupied” has turned out to be an amazing exhibition. Accompanied by a symposium and book launches, the exhibition has already attracted more than 10,000 visitors. Without a doubt, this is an important achievement in showcasing visual productions of Palestinian artists in the international arena. It marks the second representation of Palestinian art and artists at the Venice Biennale; the first being the exhibition “Palestine c/o Venice,” which was initiated and organised by curator Salwa Mikdadi in 2009. This first exhibition depicted contemporary Palestine and Palestinian art through artists who lived in Palestine. Both exhibitions were organised as collateral events, since unacknowledged countries are not given space in an official pavilion. The Biennale’s regulations only provide official representation space for “legitimate, recognised, and independent” nations to show their latest, highest, most sophisticated, and best productions of visual arts. Since Palestine has no such status, the exclusion of the Palestinian pavilion not only demonstrates a denial The evening of May 29 marked the opening of “Otherwise Occupied,” with a crowd of around 1,000 people who all came to see Palestinian representation at the 55th International Art Exhibition – Venice Biennale. The exhibition – commissioned by Al Hoash and curated by Bruce Ferguson and Rawan Sharaf – presented two established Palestinian artists: Bashir Makhoul and Aissa Deebi. The production team from Al Hoash and Winchester School of Art arrived at the historical, amazingly beautiful floating city eight days before the opening with working plans, laptops, tools, and enthusiasm to produce the Palestinian pavilion. On the day of arrival, we were all anxious to see our exhibition venue, the Liceo Artistico Statale di Venezia, an art school hosted in an old Venetian building with a huge garden opposite the Accademia di Belle Arti di Venezia and beside one of the main ferry stations in Venice. Our first meeting to begin 12 days of hard work and long hours of setup and preparation was at the corner café in front of the Accademia. 62 Palestinian identity was integrated within a global communist identity-seeking utopia – are enacting the performativity of “thinking otherwise.” In his ambitious interactive installation, Giardino Occupato, Bashir Makhoul asks visitors to pick up a box and place it in the garden, occupying the garden of the Liceo Artistico Statale di Venezia with thousands of cardboard-box houses. The accumulation of boxes – each with raggedly cut holes invoking windows and doors – assembles/resembles evocative, basic, village-like communities. The use of cardboard is suggestive of the temporality of settlements, dwellings, encampments, and the life of transience, which can often endure as a state of affairs for displaced persons. The ambiguous performance is both playful and deadly serious, situating the performer in the role of the occupier. Aissa Deebi’s two-channel installation, The Trial, is a work about the colonial present as much as the colonial past: a video installation that consists of two actors at a table in a darkened room, alternately reciting a speech by Daoud Turki, a Palestinian-Arab citizen of Israel. The speech was delivered at the Haifa District Court in 1973, just before he was convicted of espionage for his activities as a leader of a Marxist cell. The speech is ironically revived to present an insight into the transformations of identity through its ideological affiliations. of its existence but also correlates nations with the existence of their internationally recognised state. This reality raises questions about what an independent nation/state might actually be or mean. It questions the idea of an “official” representation of Palestine or any other nation. “Otherwise Occupied” signifies the outcome of a long-term partnership between Al Hoash and the Winchester School of Art and the University of Southampton, and features artists who have over the years tackled, interrogated, researched, and explored notions of identity, nationhood, nationality, memory, and colonial systems. The featured artworks in this exhibition propose an alternative approach to researching, understanding, questioning, and realising the processes that produce Palestinian identity for each of the artists. The artworks presented by Makhoul and Deebi are unavoidably occupied with political engagement and are artistically and critically questioning Palestinian identity, thinking through the de-territorialisation of Palestine and the issues of dispersal, plurality, and dispossession. Both artists – whether exploring contemporary colonial actions, turning them into a collective relation to space, enacting a dangerous “game,” or digging into the archive and researching particular cases in history where the Bashir Makhoul, “Giardino Occupato,” 2013. Detail in-situ, corrugated cardboard, size variable. 63 Restaurant Review Critiquing the Industry and Telling a Story restaurants that market themselves as msakhan specialists. Makloobeh is being fused with Italian cuisine elements to be served as risotto al makloubeh in another fine dining restaurant. Mexican cuisine has made it to the West Bank, but Abu Mazen’s stuffed lamb necks remain a serious Khalil (Hebron) delicacy not meant for the faint of heart. Mansaf, a Jordanian specialty, is the dish of choice for weddings and funerals. As restaurant culture booms all over Palestine, we are faced with issues of service, customer satisfaction, pricing, and the list goes on. Restaurant reviews then can serve as tough love. A serious review will cause chefs and owners to break into a bit of a sweat. It will quickly remind them that customers deserve to receive the service they are paying for. In Palestine, this may not be a bad thing. It is no secret that some high-end establishments charge New York City prices for entrées that are miles away from how gourmet food should taste, look, and feel. So a review that will make a chef aware that people notice how food is presented, how it tastes, or whether the meat is fresh can simply ensure that we are getting what we are paying for. Restaurant reviews offer an opportunity to put the heat on restaurant owners, and they are also a small historic record of yet another element of Palestinian culture. From falafel tours through the West Bank to the perfect steak in Bethlehem, to reminiscencefilled ice cream cones, restaurant reviews can not only guide readers to the best establishments and push for healthy competition within the industry, they can also tell the story of Palestine through food. Restaurant reviews are meant to promote some restaurants and sometimes raise a few flags about others. In Palestine though, restaurant reviews go beyond this; they are a documentation of Palestinian cuisine as a dynamic and evolving element of Palestinian culture and identity. Like everything else, Palestinian dishes are hijacked and appropriated as Israeli or Jewish – not just in Israel, but all over the world. Maftool has turned into Israeli couscous, hummus is a dipping sauce for Israeli kosher pita, falafel is a vegetarian dish that substitutes for veggie burgers, and the list goes on. Restaurant food is no stranger to Palestinians. Every town has its very special shawerma place, falafel stand, hummus and fool place, and knafeh sweet shop. Families build memories around food. Our childhoods are marked by milestones. The first time you had Rukab ice cream. The first time your parents allowed you to have shawerma, or the falafel from the stand down the street from your grandmother’s house, a key feature of Ramadan’s iftar. There is also the memory of places through food. In Jerusalem, it is kaak bsimsim and Zalatimo motabbak. In Nablus, it is Bseiso’s knafeh. In Tulkarem, it was always the falafel. It just tasted different. In Ramallah, it was Abu Skandar’s shawerma and Rukab’s ice cream, and later on, Baladna’s ice cream. Food memoirs can map both our individual and collective memories. Because food is so central to our culture and tradition, one cannot help but notice how Palestinian cuisine has been preserved by some and reinvented by others. Msakhan, typically a homemade delicacy that has been served for years by grandmothers, mothers, and daughters, is now being served in The TWIP Collective 64 Saturday 20 Note: Please make sure to contact the venue to check for the latest updates. FILMS The Jerusalem Festival 2013: Edward Said National Conservatory of Music, tel: 627 1711; Yabous Cultural Center, tel: 626 1045; Jerusalem Hotel, tel: 628 3282; Center for Jerusalem Studies, tel: 628 7517; El-Hakawati, tel:583 8836 Monday 1 18:00 Al Mor wa Al Rumman by the Palestinian director Najwa Najjar, Yabous Cultural Centre Tuesday 2 CONCERTS Monday 1 18:00 The Story of a Land by the Palestinian director Ahmad Budairy, Yabous Cultural Centre The Jerusalem Festival 2013: SPECIAL EVENTS 20:00 Sirag Group Palestine, Edward Said National Conservatory of Music Monday 1 The Jerusalem Festival 2013: Tuesday 2 20:00 Mai & Apo Group Palestine, Yabous Cultural Centre 20:00 Labess Group Algeria/Canada, Edward Said National Conservatory of Music Thursday 18 Thursday 4 21:30 Layali Ramadan (Ramadan Nights) - Oud Al-Nad Choir, National Conservatory of Music 19:00 Detstvo and Naba’ Alturath Almaqdeseh, El-Hakawati 21:30 Layali Ramadan (Ramadan Nights) - Beit Al-Inshad Group, National Conservatory of Music Alternative Information Center, tel: 277 5444 21:30 Layali Ramadan (Ramadan Nights) - Beit Al-Inshad Group, National Conservatory of Music ART Thursday 25 18:00 Mobile Circus Tour 2013 - The Palestinian Circus School, The Russian Center Sunday 7 21:30 Layali Ramadan (Ramadan Nights) Sanabel Theatre, National Conservatory of Music CONCERT Saturday 27 Tuesday 30 21:30 Layali Ramadan (Ramadan Nights) - Maqamat Al-Quds Ensemble, National Conservatory of Music 19:30 AICafe, Alternative Information Center FILMS Tuesday 9 TOURS 19:30 AICafe, Alternative Information Center Saturday 6 LECTURES 10:00 Jerusalem libraries tour, Jerusalem Hotel Tuesday 2 Tuesday 9 19:30 “AICafe,” Meeting with Shashat, Alternative Information Center 17:00 The Western Wall Tunnels, Center for Jerusalem Studies Saturday 13 Saturday 13 19:30 AICafe, Discussion, Alternative Information Center 20:30 Ramadan Rituals in the Old City, Center for Jerusalem Studies Tuesday 16 Saturday 20 19:00 Sufi Night, Center for Jerusalem Studies 19:30AICafe: Union of Agricultural Work Committes,” Alternative Information Center Saturday 27 Saturday 20 20:30 The Sufi Zawiyas, Center for Jerusalem Studies 19:30 AICafe: World Population Day,” Alternative Information Center Tuesday 23 19:30 AICafe: Ramadan meanings and traditions, Alternative Information Center Saturday 27 19:30 AICafe: Palestinian refugees today,” Alternative Information Center TOURS Saturday 6 15:00 AICafe field activity, Alternative Information Center 66 67 Franco- German Cultural Centre, tel: 298 1922; Café Ziryab, tel: 295 9093; Café La Vie, tel: 296 4115; Palestinian Association for Cultural Exchange (PACE), 240 7611; Ramallah Cultural Palace, tel: 298 4704 ART CHILDREN’S ACTIVITIES FILMS Thursday 4 Tuesday 2 10:00 STORY HOUR, in French and Arabic, FCGG Robert-Schuman Mediathek 18:00 RINZESSINENBAD, German with English subtitles, Franco-German Cultural Centre CONCERTS LECTURES Palestine International Festival: Wednesday 3 Tuesday 2 6 pm THE PRICE OF PEACE. ISRAEL / PALESTINE: A EUROPEAN CHALLENGE? , Lecture by Bernard Philippe, senior official at the European Commission and a specialist in Middle East diplomacy. , FGCC Sunday 21 Sunday 7 Monday 8 17:00 Café Francophone, Café Zyriab 20:30 El Funoun Dance Troupe, Alseera Secondary School Monday 8 20:15 Murad Baraki and Farid Ghanam, Ramallah Cultural Palace 19:00 “Other lights,” Exhibition Opening, FrancoGerman Cultural Centre Wednesday 3 Friday 12 20:15 Orchestra of Recycled Instruments, Edward Said National Conservatory of Music 18:00 “A homeland denied – Palestine,” Exhibition Opening, Markaz Aldiwan Iilthaqafa wa al Turath Thursday 4 Saturday 20 20:15 Graduation of the dance school, Ramallah Cultural Palace 20:00 “BUS STOP PALESTINE,” Jerusalem Bus Stop Thursday 4 19:00 An evening between the Occident and Orient, Saed Karazoun plays oud and presents his project “Filistin Ashabab Radio,” FCGG Robert-Schuman Mediathek Tuesday 23 20:00 “BUS STOP PALESTINE,” Jerusalem Bus Stop Friday 5 20:15 Boney M, Ramallah Cultural Palace ART Thursday 4 18:00 The Mobile Circus Tour 2013 - The Palestinian Circus School, Jamal Abdel Nasser Park 9:00 A tout to the city of Nablus and vicinity, PACE CONCERT Palestine International Festival: Friday 12 18:00 Stammtisch Deutsch, Café La Vie Sunday 21 ART 11:00 “DISCOVER THE iPAD,” FCGG RobertSchuman Mediathek Saturday 6 17:00 Café Francophone, Café Zyriab 12:00 Mobile Circus Tour 2013 - The Palestinian Circus School, The Child Happiness Center LITERATURE TOURS Monday 1 Sunday 28 Birzeit Camps-Junior Orchestra, Birzeit Activity Center 9:00 A tour to the city of Hebron and vicinity, PACE Friday 5 Birzeit Camps-Palestine Girls Choir, Birzeit Activity Center Cinema Jenin, tel: 250 2642 Sunday 14 SPECIAL EVENTS Birzeit Camps- Palestine Strings Camp, Birzeit Activity Center Palestine International Festival: SPECIAL EVENTS 19:00 Opening Ceremony, 3al Raseef Troupe and Wise Wolf, Al Hadeka Ala’meh Palestine International Festival: CONCERTS Monday 1 Palestine International Festival: 20:15 Opening Ceremony, El Funoun Dance Troupe and Spanish dance of Murcia, Ramallah Cultural Palace Thursday 4 19:00 Orchestra of Recycled Instruments, Dar Qandeel Troupe, Al Hadeka Ala’meh TOURS Friday 5 Sunday 7 19:00 Detstvo and Al Zababdeh Troupe, Cinema Jenin 9:00 A tour to the city of Ramallah and vicinity, PACE Saturday 6 20:00 Weshah Dancing Troupe, Cinema Jenin Sunday 7 19:00 Nawa Group and Rohi Khamash, Cinema Jenin TOURS Sunday 14 9:00 A tour to Sebastiya and Jenin City, PACE 68 69 Sanabel Culture & Arts Theatre Al-Jawal Theatre Group Tel: 671 4338, Fax: 673 0993 [email protected] Alruwah Theatre The Edward Said National Conservatory of Music Telefax: 628 0655 Tel: 626 2626, [email protected] Tel: 627 1711, Fax: 627 1710 [email protected], ncm.birzeit.edu Al-Ma’mal Foundation for Contemporary Art Tel: 628 3457, Fax: 627 2312 [email protected] www.almamalfoundation.org The Magnificat Intstitute Tel: 626 6609, Fax: 626 6701 [email protected] www.magnificatinstitute.org Al Ma’mal LAB Tel: 534 6837, [email protected] Theatre Day Productions Al-Urmawi Centre for Mashreq Music Tel: 585 4513, Fax: 583 4233 [email protected], www.theatreday.org Tel: 234 2005, Fax: 234 2004 [email protected], www.urmawi.org Turkish Cultural Centre Ashtar for Theatre Productions & Training Tel: 591 0530/1, Fax: 532 3310 [email protected], www.kudusbk.com Telefax: 582 7218 [email protected], www.ashtar-theatre.org Wujoud Museum The Bookshop at the American Colony Hotel Tel: 626 0916, www.wujoud.org, [email protected] Tel: 627 9731, Fax: 627 9779 [email protected] www. americancolony.com Yabous Cultural Center Tel: 626 1045; Fax: 626 1372 [email protected], www.yabous.org British Council Tel: 626 7111, Fax: 628 3021 [email protected] www.britishcouncil.org/ps Al-Harah Theatre Center for Jerusalem Studies/Al-Quds University Telefax: 276 7758, [email protected] [email protected], www.alharah.org Tel: 628 7517 [email protected], www.jerusalem-studies.alquds.edu Alliance Française de Bethléem Community Action Centre (CAC) Telefax: 275 0777, [email protected] Tel: 627 3352, Fax: 627 4547 www.cac.alquds.edu Anat Palestinian Folk & Craft Center Educational Bookshop Telefax: 277 2024, [email protected] El-Hakawati Theatre Company Tel: 274 4030, www.aeicenter.org Arab Educational Institute (AEI)-Open Windows Tel: 627 5858, Fax: 628 0814 [email protected], www.educationalbookshop.com Tel: 583 8836, Mobile: 0545 835 268 [email protected], www.el-hakawati.org Artas Folklore Center Mob: 0597 524 524, 0599 679 492, 0503 313 136 [email protected] French Cultural Centre Tel: 628 2451 / 626 2236, Fax: 628 4324 [email protected] Badil Centre Issaf Nashashibi Center for Culture & Literature Tel: 277 7086 Jerusalem Centre for Arabic Music Tel: 277 7863 Melia Art Center Bethlehem Academy of Music/ Bethlehem Music Society Beit Jala Community Based-Learning & Action Center Telefax: 581 8232, [email protected] Tel: 627 4774, Fax: 656 2469, [email protected] TeleFax: 628 1377 [email protected] www.meliaartandtrainingcenter.com Tel: 277 7141, Fax: 277 7142 Bethlehem Peace Center Tel: 276 6677, Fax: 276 4670 [email protected], www.peacenter.org Palestinian Art Court - Al Hoash Telefax: 627 3501 [email protected], www.alhoashgallary.org Cardinal House Palestinian National Theatre Telefax: 276 4778 [email protected], www.cardinalhouse.org Public Affairs Office Catholic Action Cultural Center Sabreen Association for Artistic Development Centre for Cultural Heritage Preservation Tel: 628 0957, Fax: 627 6293, [email protected] Tel: 274 3277, Fax 274 2939 [email protected], www.ca-b.org Tel: 628 2456, Fax: 628 2454 www.uscongen-jerusalem.org Tel: 276 6244, Fax: 276 6241 [email protected], www.cchp.ps Tel: 532 1393, Fax: 532 1394 [email protected], www.sabreen.org Inad Centre for Theatre and Arts Telefax: 276 6263, www.inadtheater.com 70 International Centre of Bethlehem-Dar Annadwa Yes Theater Tel: 277 0047, Fax: 277 0048 [email protected], www.diyar.ps ITIP Center “Italian Tourist Information Point” Jericho Community Centre Telefax: 232 5007 Jericho Culture & Art Center Telefax: 232 1047 Palestinian Group for the Revival of Popular Heritage Municipality Theatre Tel: 232 2417, Fax: 232 2604 Telefax: 274 7945 Relief International - Schools Online Bethlehem Community Based-Learning & Action Center Tel: 241 3002 Tel: 295 9837 [email protected], www.artschoolpalestine.com Mob: 0598 950 447 Telefax: 274 2381, 274 2642 [email protected] www.phc.ps ArtSchool Palestine The International Palestinian Youth League (IPYL) Nativity Stationary Library Palestinian Heritage Center [email protected], www.popularartcentre.org Tel: 240 8023, Fax: 240 8017 [email protected], www.amideast.org Tel:222 9131, Fax: 229 0652 [email protected], www.ipyl.org Telefax: 276 0411, [email protected] Amideast Telefax: 229 1559, www.yestheatre.org, [email protected] Ramallah Center for Human Rights Studies (RCHRS) Ramallah Cultural Palace Ashtar for Theatre Production Tel: 298 4704 / 295 2105, Fax: 295 2107 [email protected] www.ramallahculturalpalace.org Baladna Cultural Center RIWAQ: Centre for Architectural Conservation Tel: 298 0037, Fax: 296 0326 [email protected], www.ashtar-theatre.org Telfax: 295 8435 BirZeit Ethnographic and Art Museum Tel: 240 6887, Fax: 240 6986 [email protected], www.riwaq.org British Council Tel: 296 5638, 295 3206, [email protected] Sandouq Elajab Theatre Tel. 298 2976, www.virtualgallery.birzeit.edu Tel: 296 3293-6, Fax: 296 3297 [email protected] www.britishcouncil.org/ps Shashat Carmel Cultural Foundation Sharek Youth Forum Tel: 297 3336, Fax: 297 3338 [email protected], www.shashat.org Tel: 296 7741, Fax: 296 7742 [email protected], www.sharek.ps Tel: 298 7375, Fax: 298 7374 Cinema Jenin Tel: 277 7863 Tel: 250 2642, 250 2455 [email protected], www.cinemajenin.org Sabreen Association for Artistic Development Hakoura Center Tel: 275 0091, Fax: 275 0092 [email protected], www.sabreen.org Telfax: 250 4773 [email protected], www.hakoura-jenin.ps Tent of Nations The Freedom Theatre/Jenin Refugee Camp Tel: 274 3071, Fax: 276 7446 [email protected], www.tentofnations.org Tel: 250 3345, [email protected] Dar Zahran Heritage Building Tamer Institute for Community Education Telfax: 296 3470, Mob: 0599 511 800 [email protected] Tel: 298 6121/ 2, Fax: 298 8160 [email protected], www.tamerinst.org El-Funoun Dance Troupe The Danish House in Palestine (DHIP) Tel: 240 2853, Fax: 240 2851 [email protected], www.el-funoun.org Sareyyet Ramallah - First Ramallah Group (FRG) Tel: 295 2690 - 295 2706, Fax: 298 0583 [email protected], www.sareyyet.ps TeleFax: 298 8457, [email protected], www.dhip.ps The Edward Said National Conservatory of Music Tel: 295 9070, Fax: 295 9071 [email protected], www.birzeit.edu/music Franco-German Cultural Centre Ramallah The Edward Said National Conservatory of Music British Council- Al Najah University Telefax: 274 8726 [email protected], www.birzeit.edu/music Telefax: 237 5950 [email protected] www.britishcoumcil.org/ps The Higher Institute of Music Telefax: 275 2492 [email protected] www.thehigherinstituteofmusic.ps Cultural Centre for Child Development Tel: 238 6290, Fax: 239 7518 [email protected], www.nutaleb.cjb.net Turathuna - Centre for Palestinian Heritage (B.Uni.) Cultural Heritage Enrichment Center Tel: 274 1241, Fax: 274 4440 [email protected], www.bethlehem.edu Tel. 237 2863, Fax. 237 8275, [email protected] French Cultural Centre Tel: 238 5914, Fax: 238 7593 [email protected] Al Sanabl Centre for Studies and Heritage Nablus The Culture Tel: 256 0280, [email protected] www.sanabl.org, www.sanabl.ps Tel: 233 2084, Fax: 234 5325 [email protected], www.nablusculture.ps Beit Et Tifl Compound Dura Cultural Martyrs Center Emideast Tel: 221 3301/2/3/4, Fax: 221 3305 Mob: 0599 097 531 Tel: 298 7374, Fax: 296 6820 [email protected], www.sakakini.org Al-Qattan Centre for the Child Tel: 283 9929, Fax: 283 9949 [email protected] www.qattanfoundation.org/qcc Mahmud Darwish Foundation and Museum Tel: 295 2808, Fax: 295 2809 [email protected] www.darwishfoundation.org Arts & Crafts Village Telefax: 284 6405 [email protected], www.gazavillage.org Manar Cultural Center Al Kasaba Theatre and Cinematheque Gaza Theatre Telefax: 298 8091, [email protected] 72 Khalil Sakakini Cultural Center French Cultural Centre Al-Rahhalah Theatre Tel: 222 4813, Fax: 222 0855 [email protected], www.pcac.net Telefax: 296 7654, [email protected] Tel: 296 7601, [email protected] Palestinian Association for Contemporary Art PACA Tel: 296 1613, Fax: 197 1265, Mob: 0599 259 874 [email protected] Palestinian Child Arts Center (PCAC) Young Artist Forum International Academy of Arts Tel: 297 0190, [email protected] Al- Rua’a Publishing House Telfax: 225 5640, 222 6993/4 Tel. 295 0893, [email protected] Nawa institute Tel: 241 3196, Fax: 241 3197 [email protected], www.al-mada.ps Hebron Rehabilitation Committee Tel: 240 1123 / 240 2876, Telefax: 240 1544 [email protected], www.inash.org Al-Kamandjâti Association Al-Mada Music Therapy Center Tel: 222 4811 [email protected], wwww.hebron-france.org The Spanish Cultural Center Tel: 298 0036, 296 4348/9, Fax: 296 0326 [email protected] Fawanees Theatre Group Tel: 296 5292/3, Fax: 296 5294 [email protected], www.alkasaba.org France-Hebron Association for Cultural Exchanges The Palestinian Network of Art Centres In’ash Al-Usra Society- Center for Heritage & Folklore Studies A. M. Qattan Foundation Tel: 297 3101 [email protected], www.alkamandjati.com Tel: 228 3663, [email protected], www.duramun.org Telefax: 298 1736/ 298 0546, [email protected] Ashtar for Culture & Arts Tel: 296 0544, Fax: 298 4886 [email protected], www.qattanfoundation.org Telefax: 229 9545, [email protected] Greek Cultural Centre - “Macedonia” Mazra’a Qibliyeh Heritage and Tourism Centre British Council- Palestine Polytechnic University Children Happiness Center Tel: 0545 - 671 911, 0599 - 926 107 www.palcircus.ps, info@ palcircus.ps Tel: 295 7937, Fax: 298 7598 Telefax: 222 4545, [email protected] Telefax: 229 3717, [email protected] www.britsishcouncil.org.ps The Palestinian Circus School Tel: 298 1922 / 7727, Fax: 298 1923 [email protected], www.ccf-goethe-ramallah.org Telefax: 283 3565, [email protected] Telefax: 288 4403 Telefax: 281 5825, [email protected] www.geocities.com/mazraaheritage/ Culture & Light Centre Telefax: 286 5896, [email protected] Tel: 286 7883, Fax: 282 8811 [email protected] Tel: 296 7601, fax: 295 1849 [email protected], www.pal-paca.org Tel: 282 4860, Fax: 282 4870 Global Production and Distribution Palestinian Association for Cultural Exchange (PACE) Telefax: 288 4399, [email protected] Dialogpunkt Deutsch Gaza (Goethe-Insitut) Tel: 240 7611, Telfax: 240 7610 [email protected], www.pace.ps Tel: 282 0203, Fax: 282 1602 Holst Cultural Centre Palestine Writing Workshop Tel: 281 0476, Fax: 280 8896, [email protected] Mob: 0597 651 408 www.palestineworkshop.com Theatre Day Productions Telefax: 283 6766, [email protected] Popular Art Center Windows from Gaza For Contemporary Art Tel: 240 3891, Fax: 240 2851 Mob. 0599 781 227 - 0599 415 045, [email protected] 73 Mount of Olives Hotel (61 rooms; bf; mr; res) Tel: 628 4877, Fax: 626 4427 [email protected], www.mtolives.com Addar Hotel (30 suites; bf; mr; res) Tel: 626 3111, Fax: 626 0791, www.addar-hotel.com Mount Scopus Hotel (65 rooms; bf; mr; res) Alcazar Hotel (38 rooms; bf; mr; res) Tel: 582 8891, Fax: 582 8825, [email protected] Tel: 628 1111; Fax: 628 7360 [email protected], www.jrscazar.com National Hotel (99 rooms; bf; cr; res; cf) Tel: 627 8880, Fax: 627 7007 www.nationalhotel-jerusalem.com Ambassador Hotel (122 rooms; bf; cf; mr; res) Tel: 541 2222, Fax: 582 8202 [email protected] www.jerusalemambassador.com New Imperial Hotel (45 rooms) Tel: 627 2000, Fax: 627 1530 American Colony Hotel (84 rooms; bf; cf; mr; res) New Metropole Hotel (25 rooms; mr; res) Tel: 627 9777, Fax: 627 9779 [email protected], www.americancolony.com Tel: 628 3846, Fax: 627 7485 New Swedish Hostel Austrian Hospice Tel: 626 5800, Fax: 627 1472 [email protected] www.austrianhospice.com Tel: 627 7855, Fax: 626 4124, [email protected] www.geocities.com/swedishhostel Azzahra Hotel (15 rooms, res) cr, res, ter, cf, pf) Tel: 627 9111, Fax: 627 1995 [email protected], www.notredamecenter.org Notre Dame Guesthouse (142 rooms, Su, bf, mr, Tel: 628 2447, Fax: 628 3960 [email protected], www.azzahrahotel.com Capitol Hotel (54 rooms; bf; mr; res) Tel: 628 2561/2, Fax: 626 4352 Petra Hostel and Hotel Christmas Hotel Pilgrims Inn Hotel (16 rooms; bf; mr; res) Tel: 628 2588, Fax: 626 4417 [email protected], www.christmas-hotel.com Ritz Hotel Jerusalem (104 rooms, bf, mr) Tel: 628 6618 Tel: 627 2416, [email protected] Tel: 626 9900, Fax: 626 9910 [email protected] www.jerusalemritz.com Commodore Hotel (45 rooms; cf; mr; res) Tel: 627 1414, Fax: 628 4701 Gloria Hotel (94 rooms; mr; res) Rivoli Hotel Tel: 628 2431, Fax: 628 2401, [email protected] Tel: 628 4871, Fax: 627 4879 Golden Walls Hotel (112 rooms) Tel: 627 2416, Fax: 626 4658 [email protected], www.goldenwalls.com Savoy Hotel (17 rooms) Holy Land Hotel (105 rooms; bf; cf; mr; res) Seven Arches Hotel (197 rooms; bf; mr; res) Tel: 626 7777, Fax: 627 1319, [email protected] Tel: 628 3366, Fax: 628 8040 Tel: 627 2888, Fax: 628 0265 [email protected], www.holylandhotel.com Jerusalem Hotel (14 rooms; bf; mr; res; live music) St. Andrew’s Scottish Guesthouse “The Scottie” (19 rooms +Self Catering Apartment) Tel: 628 3282, Fax: 628 3282 [email protected], www.jrshotel.com Tel: 673 2401, Fax: 673 1711 [email protected], www.scotsguesthouse.com Jerusalem Meridian Hotel St. George Landmark Hotel (74 rooms; bf; mr; res) Tel: 628 5212, Fax: 628 5214 www.jerusalem-meridian.com Tel: 627 7232 Fax: 627 7233 [email protected] www.stgeorgelandmark.com Jerusalem Panorama Hotel (74 rooms; bf; mr; res) Tel: 628 4887, Fax: 627 3699 [email protected] www.jerusalempanoramahotel.com St. George’s Pilgrim Guest House Hashimi Hotel Tel: 628 4410, Fax: 628 4667, [email protected] Tel: 628 2657, 627 4318, Fax: 626 4684 [email protected], www.aset-future.net Knights Palace Guesthouse (50 rooms) Strand Hotel (88 rooms; mr; res) (25 rooms; bf; res) Tel: 628 3302, Fax: 628 2253, [email protected] St. Thomas Home Tel: 628 2537, Fax: 628 2401, [email protected] Tel: 628 0279, Fax: 628 4826 Legacy Hotel Victoria Hotel (50 rooms; bf; res) Tel: 627 0800, Fax: 627 7739 [email protected], www.jerusalemlegacy.com Tel: 627 4466, Fax: 627 4171 [email protected], www.4victoria-hotel.com Metropol Hotel Tel: 628 2507, Fax: 628 5134 74 Murad Tourist Resort Tel: 2759880, Fax:2759881, www.murad.ps Alexander Hotel (42 rooms; bf; mr; res) Nativity BELLS Hotel (95 rooms; bf; cf; mr; res) Tel: 277 0780, Fax: 277 0782 Tel: 274 8880, Fax: 274 8870 [email protected], www.nativitybellshotel.ps Al-Salam Hotel (26 rooms; 6f; mr; cf; res) Tel: 276 4083/4, Fax: 277 0551, [email protected] Nativity Hotel (89 rooms; bf; cf; mr; res) Tel: 277 0650, Fax: 274 4083 [email protected], www.nativity-hotel.com Angel Hotel Beit Jala Tel: 276 6880, Fax: 276 6884 [email protected], www.angelhotel.ps Tel: 222 9288, Fax: 222 9288 Olive Tree Hotel (20 rooms; 6 su; res; sp; bar; wifi-lobby) Tel: 276 4660 Fax: 275 3807 [email protected] Facebook: olive tree tourist village Paradise Hotel (166 rooms;cf;bf;mr;res;su;pf) Tel: 274 4542/3 - 274 4544, [email protected] Bethlehem Bible College Guest House St. Antonio Hotel (36 rooms; mr; cf;res;pf) Ararat Hotel (92 rooms, su, bf, mr, res, cf, pf) Tel: 274 9888, Fax: 276 9887 [email protected], www.ararat-hotel.com Beit Al-Baraka Youth Hostel (19 rooms) (11 rooms; mr; pf) Tel: 274 1190, [email protected] Mövenpick Hotel Ramallah (171 rooms and Su; bf; mr; cr; res;ter; cf; gm; pf; sp) Tel: 298 5888, Fax: 298 533 [email protected] [email protected] www.moevenpick-ramallah.com Rocky Hotel (22 rooms; cf; res; ter) Tel: 296 4470, Telefax: 296 1871 Pension Miami (12 rooms) Telefax: 295 6808 Ramallah Hotel (22 rooms; bf; mr; res) Tel: 295 3544, Fax: 295 5029 Retno Hotel (33 rooms & su; res; mr; gm; sp) Telefax: 295 0022, [email protected] www.retnohotel.com Royal Court Suite Hotel (39 rooms; res; mr; ter; cf; pf; i) Tel: 296 4040, Fax: 296 4047 [email protected], www.rcshotel.com Al-Qaser Hotel (48 rooms; 7 regular suites, 1 royal suite; bf; cf; mr; res) Tel: 2341 444, Fax: 2341 944 [email protected], www.alqaserhotel.com Al-Yasmeen Hotel & Souq (30 rooms; cf; mr; res) Tel: 233 3555 Fax: 233 3666 [email protected], www.alyasmeen.com Asia Hotel (28 rooms, res) Telefax: 238 6220 Chrystal Motel (12 rooms) Telefax: 233 3281 International Friends Guesthouse (Hostel) (mr; res; ter; cf; pf) Telfax: 238 1064 [email protected], www.guesthouse.ps Tel: 276 6221, Fax: 276 6220 Saint Gabriel Hotel Beit Ibrahim Guesthouse Tel: 274 2613, Fax: 274 4250 [email protected], www.abrahams-herberge.com Bethlehem Hotel (209 rooms; bf; cf; mr; res) Tel: 275 9990, Fax: 275 9991 [email protected], www.st-gabrielhotel.com Al-A’in Hotel (24 rooms and suites; mr; cf) Tel: 240 5925 - 240 4353, Fax: 240 4332 [email protected] Santa Maria Hotel (83 rooms; mr; res) Aladdin Hotel St. Nicholas Hotel (25 rooms; res; mr) Tel: 240 7921 - 2407689, Fax: 240 7687 [email protected], www.expedia.com Al-Bireh Tourist Hotel (50 rooms; cf; res) Telefax: 240 0803 Al-Hajal Hotel (22 rooms; bf) Telefax: 298 7858 Al Hambra Palace (Hotel Suites and Resort) Tel: 295 6226 - 295 0031, Fax: 295 0032 [email protected] www.alhambra-palace-hotel.com Tel: 274 3040/1/2, Fax: 274 3043 AlZahra Suites Tel: 276 7374/5/6, Fax: 276 7377, [email protected] Tel: 277 0702, Fax: 277 0706, [email protected] Shepherd Hotel Bethlehem Inn (36 rooms; bf; mr; res) Tel: 274 2424, Fax: 274 2423 Tel: 274 0656, Fax: 274 4888 [email protected], www.shepherdhotel.com Bethlehem Star Hotel (72 rooms; cf; bf; res) Shepherds’ House Hotel Tel: 274 3249 - 277 0285, Fax: 274 1494 [email protected] (Facilities: Restaurant and Bar, WiFi) Tel: 275 9690, Fax: 275 9693 Bethlehem youth hostel Telefax: 274 84 66, http://www.ejepal.org Casanova Hospice (60 rooms; mr; res) Tel: 274 3981, Fax: 274 3540 Casanova Palace Hotel (25 rooms; bf; res) Tel: 274 2798, Fax: 274 1562 El-Beit Guest House (beit sahour) (15 rooms) Saint Vincent Guest House (36 rooms) Tel: 276 0967/8, Fax: 276 0970 [email protected], www.saintvincentguesthouse.net Tel: 242 3019 [email protected], www.alzahrasuites.ps Reef Pension (Jifna village) (8 rooms; res) Telefax: 2810881, www.reefhousepension.ps Talita Kumi Guest House (22 rooms; res; mr; cf) Al-Wihdah Hotel Tel: 274 1247, Fax: 274 1847 TeleFax: 277 5857, [email protected], www.elbeit.org Zaituna Tourist Village Everest Hotel (19 rooms; bf; mr; res) Tel: 275 0655 Tel: 274 2604, Fax: 274 1278 Summer Bar (Ankars Garden) Tel: 295 2602 Star Mountain Guesthouse (10 rooms; wifi; pf) Tel: 296 2705, Telefax: 296 2715 [email protected] Adam Hotel (76 rooms; bf; cf; mr; res) Telefax: 282 3521/19, Fax: 282 5580 Al-Deira (22 Suits; cf; mr; res; ter) Tel: 283 8100/200/300, Fax: 283 8400 [email protected], www.aldeira.ps Al Mashtal Hotel Tel: 283 2500, Fax: 283 2510 [email protected] www.almashtalarcmedhotels.com Almat’haf Hotel Tel: 285 8444, Fax: 285 8440 [email protected], www.almathaf.ps Al-Quds International Hotel (44 rooms; 2 suites; bf; mr; res) Telefax: 282 5181, 282 6223, 286 3481, 282 2269 Beach Hotel (25 rooms; bf; mr; res) Telefax: 282 5492, 284 8433 Commodore Gaza Hotel (60 rooms;su; bf) Tel: 283 4400, Fax: 282 2623 Telefax: 298 0412 Ankars Suites and Hotel (40 Suites & Rooms, su,mr,bf,cr,res,ter,cf,gm,pf) Tel: 295 2602, Fax: 295 2603, [email protected] Beauty Inn Grand Hotel (107 rooms; bf; cf; mr; res) Tel: 274 1602 - 274 1440, Fax: 274 1604 [email protected] Al- Zaytouna Guest House (7 rooms; bf; res; mr) Golden Park Resort & Hotel (Beit Sahour) Telefax: 274 2016 Deir Hijleh Monastery Tel: 994 3038, 0505 348 892 (66 rooms; res, bar, pool) Tel: 277 4414 Hisham Palace Hotel Holy Family Hotel (90 rooms; bf; cf; mr; res;) Tel: 232 2414, Fax: 232 3109 Tel: 277 3432/3, Fax: 274 8650 [email protected], www.holyfamilyhotel.com Inter-Continental Jericho (181 rooms; su; bf; cf; mr; res; ter; tb) Tel: 231 1200, Fax: 231 1222 Holy Land Hotel Tel: 277 8962/3, Fax: 277 8961 [email protected], www.holylandhotel.net Jericho Resort Village (60 rooms; 46 studios; bf; cf; mr; res) Tel: 232 1255, Fax: 232 2189 [email protected], www.jerichoresorts.com House of Hope Guesthouse Tel: 274 2325, Fax: 274 0928 [email protected] Jerusalem Hotel (22 rooms) House of Peace Hostel Tel: 232 2444, Fax: 992 3109 Tel: 276 4739, http://www.houseofpeace.hostel.com/ Telepherique & Sultan Tourist Center Inter-Continental Hotel (Jacir Palace) (55 rooms) Tel: 232 1590, Fax: 232 1598 [email protected] (250 rooms; su; bf; cf; mr; res) Tel: 276 6777, Fax: 276 6770 Lutheran Guesthouse “Abu Gubran” Tel: 296 6477, Fax: 296 6479 [email protected], www.beautyinn.ps Best Eastern Hotel (91 rooms; cf; res) Tel: 296 0450, Fax: 295 8452, [email protected] Caesar Hotel (46 rooms & su, 2 mr, cr, res, cf) Tel: 297 9400, Fax: 297 9401 [email protected], www.caesar-hotel.ps City Inn Palace Hotel (47 rooms; bf; cf; res) Tel: 240 8080, Fax: 240 8091 [email protected], www.cityinnpalace.com Gaza International Hotel (30 rooms; bf; cf; res) Tel: 283 0001/2/3/4, Fax: 283 0005 Grand Palace Hotel (20 rooms; cr; mr; cf; res) Tel: 284 9498/6468, Fax: 284 9497 Marna House (17 rooms; bf; mr; res) Tel: 282 2624, Fax: 282 3322 Palestine Hotel (54 rooms; bf; cf; mr; res) Tel: Tel: 282 3355, Fax: 286 0056 Grand Park Hotel & Resorts (84 rooms; 12 grand suites; bf; cf; mr; res; sp; pf) Tel: 298 6194, Fax: 295 6950, [email protected] Cinema Jenin Guesthouse (7 rooms; 2 su) Gemzo Suites Tel: 250 2455, Mob: 0599 317 968 [email protected], www.cinemajenin.org (90 executive suites; cs; mr; pf; gm; res) Tel: 240 9729, Fax: 240 9532 [email protected], www.gemzosuites.net Haddad Hotel & Resort Tel: 241 7010/1/2, Fax: 241 7013 [email protected] www.haddadtourismvillage.com Manarah Hotel Tel: 295 2122, Telefax: 295 3274 [email protected], www.manarahhotel.com.ps Merryland Hotel (25 rooms) Tel: 298 7176, Telefax: 298 7074 North Gate Hotel Tel: 243 5700, Fax: 243 5701 [email protected], www.northgate-hotel.com Tel: 277 0047, [email protected], www.diyar.ps Manger Square Hotel (220 Rooms; bf; cf; mr; res; cr) Hebron Hotel Tel: 277 8888, Fax: 277 8889 [email protected] Web: www.mangersquarehotel.com Tel: 225 4240 / 222 9385, Fax: 222 6760 [email protected] 76 Key: su = suites, bf = business facilities; mr = meeting rooms, cr = conference facilities; res = restaurant, ter = terrace bar; tb = turkish bath, cf = coffee shop; gm = gym; pf = parking facilities, sp = swimming pool 77 Al-Diwan (Ambassador Hotel) Middle Eastern, French, and Italian Cuisine Tel: 541 2213, Fax: 582 8202 Alhambra Palace Jerusalem Restaurant & coffee shop Tel: 626 3535, Fax: 6263737 [email protected] Al-Manakeesh Pizza & Pastries Tel: 585 6928 Al-Shuleh Grill Shawerma and Barbecues Tel: 627 3768 Amigo Emil Middle Eastern, American, Indian, and Italian Cuisine Tel: 628 8090, Fax: 626 1457 Antonio’s (Ambassador Hotel) Middle Eastern, French, and Italian Cuisine Tel: 541 2213 Arabesque, Poolside, and Patio Restaurants (American Colony Hotel) Western and Middle Eastern Menu Tel: 627 9777, Fax: 627 9779 Armenian Tavern Armenian and Middle Eastern Food Tel: 627 3854 Askidinya Italian and French Cuisine Tel: 532 4590 Az-Zahra Oriental food and Pizza Tel: 628 2447 Borderline Restaurant Café Italian and Oriental Menu Tel: 532 8342 Burghoulji Armenian and Middle Eastern Tel: 628 2072, Fax: 628 2080 Four Seasons Restaurants and Coffee Shop Barbecues and Shawerma Tel: 628 6061, Fax: 628 6097 Gallery Café Snacks and Beverages Tel: 540 9974 Garden’s Restaurant Tel: 581 6463 Fast Food Tel: 585 3223 Lotus and Olive Garden Victoria Restaurant (Jerusalem Meridian Hotel) Middle Eastern and Continental Cuisine Tel: 628 5212 Nafoura Middle Eastern Menu Tel: 626 0034 Tel: 627 8077 La Rotisserie (Notre Dame Hotel) Gourmet Restaurant, European and Mediterranean Menu Tel: 627 9114, Fax: 627 1995 Dina Café Coffee and Pastry Tel: 626 3344 Panoramic Golden City Barbecues Tel: 628 4433, Fax: 627 5224 Pasha’s Oriental Food Tel: 582 5162, 532 8342 Patisserie Suisse Coffee Bean Café Pizza and Oriental Pastry Tel: 627 3970, 628 8135 Petra Restaurant Pizza House Sandwiches and Sushi Tel: 627 0820 Quick Lunch Educational Bookshop Books and Coffee RIO Grill and Subs Chocolates, Coffee, and Internet Tel: 626 0993 Flavours Grill International Cuisine with Mediterranean Flavour Tel: 627 4626 Middle Eastern and Arabic Menu Tel: 628 3051, Fax: 627 4171 Wake up Restaurant Tel: 627 8880 Zad Rest. & Café Tel: 627 7454, 627 2525 Nakashian Gallery Café Chinese Restaurant El Dorada Coffee Shop and Internet Café Coffee and Pastry Tel: 673 2401, Fax: 673 1711 The Patio (Christmas Hotel) Oriental and European Menu Tel: 628 2588, 626 4418 Mediterranean Cuisine Tel: 627 1356 Oriental Cuisine Tel: 627 7799 Books and Coffee Tel: 627 5858 The Scots Bistro Tel: 627 7232, Fax: 627 7233 Versavee Bistro (Bar and Café) Oriental and Western Food Tel: 627 6160 Kan Zaman (Jerusalem Hotel) Fast Food and Breakfast Tel: 628 4377 Chinese Cuisine Tel: 626 3465, Fax: 626 3471 Fresh Juices, Coffee, and Tea Tel: 627 4282 Turquoise Lebanese Restaurant Goodies Cardo Restaurant Continental Cuisine Tel: 627 0827 The Gate Café Tel: 628 4228 Italian and French Cuisine Tel: 583 5460 Rossini’s Restaurant Bar French and Italian Cuisine Tel: 628 2964 Philadelphia Restaurant Mediterranean Menu Tel: 532 2626, Fax: 532 2636 Shalizar Restaurant Middle Eastern, Mexican, and Italian Cuisine Tel: 582 9061 78 1890 Restaurant (Beit-Jala) Tel: 277 8779 [email protected] Abu Eli Restaurant Middle Eastern and Barbecues Tel. 274 1897 Abu Shanab Restaurant Barbecues Tel: 274 2985 Afteem Restaurant Oriental Cuisine Tel: 274 7940 Al-Areeshah Palace (Jacir Palace – InterContinental Bethlehem) Middle Eastern and Barbecues Tel: 276 6777, Fax: 276 6154 Al-Hakura Restaurant Middle Eastern and Fast Food Tel: 277 3335 Al- Khaymeh (Jacir Palace – InterContinental Bethlehem) Middle Eastern and Barbecues Tel: 276 6777, Fax: 276 6154 Al Makan Bar (Jacir Palace – InterContinental Bethlehem) Snack Bar Tel: 276 6777, Fax: 276 6770 Balloons Coffee Shop and Pizza Tel: 275 0221, Fax: 277 7115 Barbara Restaurant Tel: 274 0130 [email protected] Beit Sahour Citadel Mediterranean Cuisine Tel: 277 7771 Bonjour Restaurant and Café Tachi Chinese Coffee Shop and Continental Cuisine Tel: 274 0406 Chinese Cuisine Tel: 274 4382 Dar al-Balad Oriental and Continental Cuisine Tel: 274 0711, Mob: 0599 205 158 Continental Cuisine Tel: 274 9073 Divano Café and Restaurant Tel: 275 7276 [email protected] Grotto Restaurant Barbecues and Taboon Tel: 274 8844, Fax: 274 8889 Golden Roof Continental Cuisine Tel: 274 3224 King Gaspar Restaurant & Bar (Italian, Asian and Taboo – Restaurant and Bar The Square Restaurant and Coffee Shop Mediterranean Cuisine Tel: 274 9844 Zaitouneh (Jacir Palace – InterContinental Bethlehem) Continental Cuisine Tel: 276 6777, Fax: 276 6154 Al-Nafoura Restaurant Mediterranean Cuisine) Tel: 276 5301, Fax: 276 5302 Il’iliyeh Restaurant Al-Rawda Continental Cuisine Tel: 277 0047 Barbecues Telefax: 232 2555 Layal Lounge Green Valley Park Snack Bar Tel: 275 0655 Oriental Cuisine and Barbecues Tel: 232 2349 La Terrasse Jabal Quruntul Middle Eastern and Continental Cuisine Tel: 275 3678 Continental Cuisine (Open Buffet) Tel: 232 2614, Fax: 232 2659 Limoncello (Beit Jala) Limoneh Continental Cuisine Tel: 231 2977, Fax: 231 2976 Little Italy Tel: 275 5161 Mariachi (Grand Hotel) Seafood and Mexican Cuisine Tel: 274 1440, 274 1602/3 Fax: 274 1604 Barbecues and Oriental Cuisine Tel: 237 1332 Qasr al-Jabi restaurant Massina (Breakfast) Noah’s Snack/ Ararat Hotel Hotel) Continental Cuisine and Pastries Tel: 238 3164, Fax: 233 3666 Snack Food Tel: 749 888, Fax: 276 9887 Zeit Ou Zaater (Al-Yasmeen Palmeras Gastropub Continental Cuisine Telefax: 275 6622 Peace Restaurant & Bar Mexican, Italian, Oriental Tel: 296 5911 Pasta, Seafood, Steaks & Middle Eastern Tel: 0595 187 622 Andareen Pub Riwaq Courtyard (Jacir Palace Msakhan and Taboun Tel: 290 5124 – InterContinental Bethlehem) Coffee Shop and Sandwiches Tel: 276 6777, Fax: 276 6754 Roots Lounge (Beit Sahour) Tel: 0598 333 665 The Tent Restaurant (Shepherds’ Valley Village) Barbecues Tel: 277 3875, Fax: 277 3876 Sima café Tel: 275 2058 St. George Restaurant Oriental Cuisine and Barbecues Tel: 274 3780, Fax: 274 1833 [email protected] Mob: 0599 258 435 Al Falaha Akasha Oriental Tel: 295 9333 Allegro Italian Restaurant Mövenpick Hotel Ramallah Italian fine cuisine Tel: 298 5888 Al- Riwaq All-day-dining restaurant Mövenpick Hotel Ramallah International, Swiss and Oriental cuisine Tel: 298 5888 Khuzama Restaurant Angelo’s Cafe, Bistro & Bar Tel: 296 4115 French and Italian Cuisine Tel: 296 6477/8 Western Menu and Pizza Tel: 295 6408, 298 1455 Azure Restaurant and Coffee Shop Continental Cuisine Telefax: 295 7850 La Vie Café La Vista Café and Restaurant Oriental and Western Cuisine Tel: 296 3271 Level 5 Fusion European Tel: 298 8686 Cann Espresso Ice Cream and Soft Drinks Telefax: 295 6721 Bel Mondo Italian Cuisine Tel: 298 6759 Caesar’s (Grand Park Hotel) Continental Cuisine Tel: 298 6194 Arabic and Italian Cuisine Tel: 297 2125 Café De La Paix Mr. Fish French Cuisine Tel: 298 0880 Castello Restaurant & Café Oriental Tel: 297 3844/55 Chinese House Restaurant Chinese Cuisine Tel: 296 4081 Clara restaurant and pub Tel: 297 4655 Darna Continental Cuisine Tel: 295 0590/1 Diwan Art Coffee Shop Continental Cuisine Tel: 296 6483 Do Re Mi Café (Royal Court) Continental Cuisine Tel: 296 4040 Elite Coffee House 911 Café Cake and Sweets Tel: 295 6813 Oriental Cuisine Tel: 298 8289 Dauod Basha Salim Afandi K5M - Caterers Andre’s Restaurant Mob: 0597 348 335 Tel: 238 4180 Tel: 274 9110 Seafood, Breakfast, and Pizza, Coffee Shop, Lebanese and Italian Cuisine Tel: 297 1776 Baladna Ice Cream (Jericho Resort Village) Arabic Cuisine and Barbecues Tel: 232 1255, Fax: 232 2189 Tel: 275 8844, Fax: 275 8833 Awjan Italian and Arabic Cuisine Tel: 296 5169 European Coffee Shop Coffee and Sweets Tel: 2951 7031, 296 6505 Express Pizza Mac Simon Pizza and Fast Food Tel: 297 2088 Mr. Donuts Café Donuts and Coffee Shop Tel: 240 7196 Seafood Tel: 295 9555 Mr. Pizza Pizza and Fast Food Tel: 240 3016, 240 8182 Muntaza Restaurant and Garden Barbecues and Sandwiches Tel: 295 6835 Na3Na3 Café Italian and Oriental Cuisine Tel: 296 4606 Nai Resto Café - Argeeleh Mob: 0595 403 020 Newz Bar Lounge and “Le Gourmet” pastries’ corner Mövenpick Hotel Ramallah Tel: 298 5888 Osama’s Pizza Pizza and Fast Food Tel: 295 3270 Orjuwan Lounge Palestinian-Italian Fusion Tel: 297 6870 Rama café Resto/Bar Tel: 298 5376 Peter’s Place Restaurant & Bar (Taybeh) Palestinian Cuisine American Pizza Tel: 296 6566 Tel: 289 8054, Mob: 0547 043 029 Fawanees Italian Cuisine Tel: 297 0705, 297 0706 Pizza Inn Pizza and Fast Food Tel: 298 1181/2/3 Pastries and Fast Food Tel: 298 7046 Fuego Mexican and Tapas Grill Tel: 29 59426 - 1700 999 888 Hoash Il’iliyet Restaurant and Gallery Pesto Café and Restaurant Philadelphia Restaurant Middle Eastern Menu Tel: 295 1999 QMH Zam’n Premium Coffee Masyoun Tel: 297 34511 Roma Café Italian Light Food Tel: 296 4228 Rukab’s Ice Cream Ice Cream and Soft Drinks Tel: 295 3467 Saba Sandwiches Falafel and Sandwiches Tel: 296 0116 Samer Middle Eastern Food Tel: 240 5338 - 240 3088 Scoop Tel: 295 9189 French, Italian, and Mexican Cuisine Tel: 295 6808 Sinatra Gourmet Italian and American Cuisine Tel: 297 1028 Sky Bar (Ankars Suites and Hotel) Continental Cuisine Tel: 295 2602 Sparkles Bar Cigar bar Mövenpick Hotel Ramallah Tel: 298 5888 Stones Continental Cuisine Tel: 296 6038 Tabash (Jifna Village) Barbecues Tel: 281 0932 Pastries and Snacks Tel: 295 4455 Ziryab Barbecues, Italian, and Oriental Cuisine Tel: 295 9093 Al Daar Barbecues Tel: 288 5827 Al-Deira Mediterranean Cuisine Tel: 283 8100/200/300 Fax: 2838400 Almat’haf Mediterranean Cuisine Tel: 285 8444, Fax: 285 8440 Al-Molouke Shawerma Tel: 286 8397 Al-Salam Seafood Tel: 282 2705, Telefax: 283 3188 Avenue Tel: 288 2100, 288 3100 Middle Eastern and Western Menu Tel: 298 7905/ 6 Fastfood Tel: 283 3666 TCHE TCHE Carino’s Tel: 296 4201 The Vine Restaurant Continental Cuisine Mob: 0595 403 020, 0568 403 020 THE Q GARDEN Roof-top garden International Cusine Tel: 295 7727 Tomasso’s Pizza and Fast Food Tel: 240 9991/ 2 Tropicana Mexican Cuisine, Oriental Menu, and Zarb Tel: 297 5661 UpTown (Ankars Suites and Hotel) Continental Cuisine Tel: 295 2602 Values Restaurant Tel: 286 6343, Fax: 286 6353 LATERNA Tel: 288 9881, Fax: 288 9882 Light House Tel: 288 4884 Marna House Telefax: 282 3322, 282 2624 Mazaj Coffee House Tel: 286 8035 Mazaj Resturant Tel: 282 5003, Fax: 286 9078 Orient House Telefax: 282 8008, 282 8604 Roots - The Club Oriental Cuisine Tel: 288 8666, 282 3999, 282 3777 International and Sea Food Tel: 296 6997 Abu Mazen Restaurant Vatche’s Garden Restaurant Al Quds Restaurant European Style Tel: 296 5966, 296 5988 Jasmine Café Coffee Shop Style Tel: 295 0600 Pronto Resto-Café Zaki Taki Zam’n Premium Coffee Tel: 221 3833, Fax: 229 3111 Tel: 229 7773, Fax: 229 7774 Golden Rooster Telefax: 221 6115 Hebron Restaurant Telefax: 222 7773 Orient House Restaurant Sandwiches Tel: 296 3643 Telefax: 221 1525 Royal Restaurant Tel: 297 5444 80 Zeit ou Zaater Big Bite Tel: 295 6020, Fax: 296 4693 Janan’s Kitchen Barbecues and Oriental Cuisine Tel: 295 6767, 296 4480 Fax: 296 4357 Tal El-Qamar Roof Plaza Jdoudna Restaurant and Park Middle Eastern Menu Italian Cuisine Tel: 298 7312 Zarour Bar BQ Sangria’s Traditional Palestinian Cuisine (Birzeit) Mob: 0599 868 914 Tel: 295 0121 Coffee Shop Style Tel: 298 1033 Tel: 222 7210 81 East Jerusalem (02) Armenian Museum, Old City, Tel: 628 2331, Fax: 626 4861, Opening hours: Mon.- Sat. from 9:00 - 16:30 • Dar At Tifl Museum (Dar At Tifl Association), Near the Orient House, Tel: 628 3251, Fax: 627 3477 • Islamic Museum (The Islamic Waqf Association), Old City, Tel: 628 3313, Fax: 628 5561, opening hours for tourists: daily from 7:30 - 13:30 • Math Museum, Science Museum, Abu Jihad Museum for the Palestinian Prisoners Studies - Al-Quds University, Tel: 279 9753 - 279 0606, [email protected], opening hours Saturday - Wednesday 8:30 - 15:00 • Qalandia Camp Women’s Handicraft Coop., Telefax: 656 9385, Fax: 585 6966, [email protected] • WUJOUD Museum, Tel: 626 0916, Fax: 0272625, [email protected], www.wujoud.org Ramallah & Al-Bireh (02) Museum of Palestinian Popular Heritage - In’ash el Usra, In’ash el Usra society, Al-Bireh, Tel: 240 2876, Fax: 240 1544, Opening hours: daily from 8:00 - 15:00 except Fridays • Ramallah Museum, Al-Harajeh St., Across from Arab Bank, Old Town, Ramallah, Telefax: 295 9561, open daily from 8:00 - 15:00 except friday and Saturday • The Birzeit University Ethnographic and Art Museum Tel: 298 2976, [email protected], Opening hours: daily from 10:00 - 15:00 except for Fridays and Sundays Bethlehem (02) Al-Balad Museum for Olive Oil Production, Tel: 274 1581, Opening hours: 8:00-14:30 Monday through Saturday • Baituna al Talhami Museum, (Folklore Museum) Arab Women’s Union, Tel: 274 2589, Fax: 274 2431, Opening hours: daily from 8:00 - 13:00/ 14:00 - 17:00 except for Sundays and Thursdays afternoon • Bethlehem Peace Center Museum, Tel: 276 6677, Fax: 274 1057, [email protected], www.peacenter.org , Opening hours: daily from 10:00-18:00 except Sundays from 10:00 - 16:00 • International Nativity Museum, Telefax: 276 0076, [email protected], w w w. i n t e r n a t i o n a l n a t i v i t y m u s e u m . c o m • N a t u r a l H i s t o r y M u s e u m , Te l e f a x : 0 2 - 2 7 6 5 5 7 4 , e e c @ p - o l . c o m , w w w. e e c p . o r g • A r t a s O l d V i l l a g e H o u s e / M u s e u m , Mob: 0597 524 524, 0599 679 492, 0502 509 514, [email protected], Opening Hours: By Appointment • Palestinian Heritage Center, Telefax: 274 2381, [email protected], www. palestinianheritagecenter.com Gaza (08) Al Mathaf, Tel: 285 8444, [email protected], www. almathaf.ps East Jerusalem (02) Car Rental • Car & Drive, Tel: 656 5562/3 • Dallah Al-Barakah, Tel: 656 4150 • Good Luck, Tel: 627 7033, Fax: 627 7688 • Green Peace Rent A Car Ltd., Telefax: 585 9756 • Jerusalem Car Rental & Leasing ltd., Tel: 582 2179, Fax: 582 2173 • Orabi, Tel: 585 3101 • Middle East Car Rental, Tel: 626 2777, Fax: 626 2203, [email protected] • Taxis Abdo,Tel: 585 8202 (Beit Hanina), Tel: 628 3281 (Damascus Gate) • Al-Eman Taxi & Lemo Service, Tel: 583 4599 - 583 5877 •Al-Rashid, Tel: 628 2220 • Al-Aqsa, Tel: 627 3003 • Beit Hanina, Tel: 585 5777 • Holy Land, Tel: 585 5555 • Imperial, Tel: 628 2504 • Jaber - Petra, Tel: 583 7275 - 583 7276 • Khaled Al-Tahan, Tel: 585 5777 • Mount of Olives, Tel: 627 2777 • Panorama, Tel: 628 1116 • Tourist Transportation Abdo Tourist, Tel: 628 1866 • Jerusalem of Gold, Tel: 673 7025/6 • Kawasmi Tourist Travel Ltd., Tel: 628 4769, Fax: 628 4710 • Mount of Olives, Tel: 627 1122 • Mahfouz Tourist Travel, Tel: 628 2212, Fax: 628 4015 • Bethlehem (02) Car Rental Murad, Tel: 274 7092 • Nativity Rent a Car, Tel: 274 3532, Fax: 274 7053 Taxis Asha’b, Tel: 274 2309 • Beit Jala, Tel: 274 2629 • Al Fararjeh Taxi - 24 Hours, Tel: 275 2416 Hebron (02) Car Rental Holy Land, Tel: 222 0811 • Taxis Al-Asdiqa’, Tel: 222 9436 • Al-Itihad, Tel: 222 8750 Jericho (02) Taxis Petra, Tel: 232 2525 Nablus (09) Car Rental Orabi, Tel: 238 3383 • Taxis Al-Ittimad, Tel: 237 1439 • Al-Madina, Tel: 237 3501 Ramallah & Al-Bireh (02) Car Rental Good Luck, Tel: 234 2160 • Orabi, Tel: 240 3521 • Petra, Tel: 295 2602 • TWINS, Tel: 296 4688 • Taxis Al-Bireh, Tel: 240 2956 • Al-Masyoun Taxi, Tel: 295 2230 • Al-Salam, Tel: 295 5805 • Al-Wafa, Tel: 295 5444 • Al-Itihad, Tel: 295 5887 • Hinnawi Taxi, Tel: 295 6302 • Omaya, Tel: 295 6120 • SAHARA Rent a Car Co., Tel: 297 5317/8 • Shamma’ Taxi Co., Tel: 296 0957 East Jerusalem (02) 4M Travel Agency, Tel: 627 1414, Fax: 628 4701, [email protected], www.4m- travel.com • Abdo Tourist & Travel, Tel: 628 1865, Fax: 627 2973, [email protected] • Aeolus Tours, Tel: 0505 635 5496, Fax: 656 5823, [email protected] • Albina Tours Ltd., Tel: 628 3397, Fax: 628 1215, [email protected]; [email protected], www.albinatours.com • Alliance Travel Solutions, Tel: 581 7102, Fax: 581 7103, [email protected], www.alliancetravel-jrs.com • Arab Tourist Agency (ATA), Tel: 627 7442, Fax: 628 4366,[email protected] • Atic Tours & Travel Ltd., Tel: 628 6159, Fax: 626 4023, info@ atictour.com, www.atictour.com • Awad & Co. Tourist Agency, Tel: 628 4021, Fax: 628 7990, admin@awad. tours.com, www.awad-tours.com • Aweidah Bros. Co., Tel: 6282365, [email protected] • B. Peace Tours & Travel, Tel: 626 1876, Fax: 626 2065, [email protected] • Bible Land Tours, Tel: 627 1169, Fax: 627 2218, [email protected] • Blessed Land Tours, Tel: 628 6592, Fax: 628 5812, blt@blessedlandtours. com, www.blessedlandtours.com • Carawan Tours and Travel, Tel: 628 1244, Fax: 628 1406, carawan@ jrol.com, www.carawan-tours.com • Daher Travel, Tel: 628 3235, Fax: 627 1574, [email protected], www. dahertravel.com • Dajani Palestine Tours, Tel: 626 4768, Fax: 627 6927, [email protected] • Dakkak Tours Agency, Tel: 628 2525, Fax: 628 2526, [email protected] • Destination Middle East, info@ destination-middle-east.com • Dynamic Links Travel and Tourism Bureau, Tel: 628 4724, Fax: 628 4714, [email protected] • George Garabedian Co., Tel: 628 3398, Fax: 628 7896, [email protected] • GEMM Travel, Tel: 628 2535/6, [email protected] • Guiding Star Ltd., Tel: 627 3150, Fax: 627 3147, [email protected], www.guidingstarltd.com • Holy Jerusalem Tours & Travel, Tel: 540 1668; Fax: 540 0963, [email protected], www.holyjerusalemtours.com • Holy Land Tours, Tel: 532 3232, Fax: 532 3292, [email protected] • Jata Travel Ltd., Tel: 627 5001, Fax: 627 5003, [email protected] • Jiro Tours, Tel: 627 3766, Fax: 628 1020, [email protected], www.jirotours.com • Jordan Travel Agency, Tel: 628 4052, Fax: 628 7621 • Jerusalem Orient Tourist Travel, Tel : 628 8722, Fax: 627 4589, hamdi@jottweb. com • JT & T, Tel: 628 9418, 628 9422, Fax: 628 9298, [email protected], www.jttours.com • KIM’s Tourist & Travel Agency, Tel: 627 9725, Fax: 627 4626, [email protected], www.kimstours.com • Lawrence Tours & Travel, Tel: 628 4867, Fax: 627 1285, [email protected] • Lions Gate Travel & Tours, Tel: 627 7829, Fax: 627 7830, Mobile: 0523 855 312, [email protected] • Lourdes Tourist & Travel Agency, Tel: 627 5332, Telefax: 627 5336, [email protected] • Mt. of Olives Tours Ltd., Tel: 627 1122, Fax: 628 5551 [email protected], www.olivetours.com • Nawas Tourist Agency Ltd., Tel: 628 2491, Fax: 628 5755 • Nazarene Tours and Travel, Tel: 627 4636, Fax: 627 7526 • Near East Tourist Agency (NET), Tel: 532 8706, Fax: 532 8701, [email protected], www.netours.com • O.S. Hotel Services, Tel: 628 9260, Fax: 626 4979, [email protected] • Overseas Travel Bureau, Tel: 628 7090, Fax: 628 4442, [email protected] • Priority Travel and Tours LTD., Tel: 627 4207, Fax: 627 4107 • Safieh Tours & Travel Agency, Tel: 626 4447, Fax: 628 4430, [email protected] • Samara Tourist & Travel Agency, Tel: 627 6133. Fax: 627 1956, [email protected] • Shepherds Tours & Travel, Tel: 6284121- 6287859, Fax: 6280251, [email protected], www.shepherdstours.com • Shweiki Tours Ltd., Tel: 673 6711, Fax: 673 6966 • Sindbad Travel Tourist Agency, Tel: 627 2165, Fax: 627 2169, [email protected], www.Sindbad-Travel.com • Swift Travel, Tel: 628 0704, Fax: 627 2783, [email protected] • Terra Sancta Tourist Co, Tel: 628 4733, Fax: 626 4472 • Tower Tours & Travel Ltd., Tel: 628 2365, Fax: 628 2366, [email protected], www.tower-tours.com • Tony Tours Ltd., Tel: 244 2050, Fax: 244 2052, [email protected] • Traveller Experience Tours, Telefax: 585 8440, Mob. 0548 050 383, [email protected], www.travellerexperience.com • United Travel Ltd., Tel: 583 3614, Fax: 583 6190, [email protected], www.unitedtravelltd.com • Universal Tourist Agency, Tel: 628 4383, Fax: 626 4448, [email protected], www.universal-jer.com • William Tours & Travel Agency, Tel: 623 1617, Fax: 624 1126, [email protected] • Yanis Tours & Travel, Telefax: 627 5862, [email protected] • Zatarah Tourist & Travel Agency, Tel: 627 2725, Fax: 628 9873, [email protected] Bethlehem (02) ACA Travel & Tourism, Tel: 274 1115, Fax: 275 2263, [email protected], www.aca.ps • Angels Tours and Travel, Tel: 277 5813, Fax: 277 5814, [email protected], www.angelstours.com.ps • Arab Agency Travel & Tourism, Tel: 274 1872, Fax: 274 2431, [email protected], www.aca-palestine.com • Bethlehem Star Travel, Telefax: 277 0441, [email protected], www.bst.ps • Crown Tours & Travel Co. Ltd., Tel: 274 0911, Fax: 274 0910, [email protected], www.crown-tours.com • Four Seasons Co. Tourism & Travel, Tel: 277 4401, Fax: 277 4402, [email protected] • Gloria Tours & Travel, Tel: 274 0835, Fax: 274 3021, [email protected] • Golden Gate Tours & Travel, Tel: 276 6044, Fax: 276 6045, [email protected] • Kukali Travel & Tours, Tel: 277 3047, Fax: 277 2034, [email protected] • Laila Tours & Travel, Tel: 277 7997, Fax: 277 7996, [email protected], www.Lailatours.com • Lama Tours International, Tel: 274 3717, Fax: 274 3747, [email protected] • Millennium Transportation, TeleFax: 676 7727, 050-242 270 • Mousallam Int’l Tours, Tel: 277 0054, Fax: 277 0054, [email protected] • Nativity Tours and Travel, Tel: 276 1124, TeleFax: 276 1125, [email protected], www.thenativitytours.com • Sansur Travel Agency, Tel: 274 4473, Telefax: 274 4459 • Sky Lark Tours and Travel, Tel: 274 2886, Fax: 276 4962, [email protected] • Terra Santa Tourist Co., Tel: 277 0249 Fax: 277 0250 • Voice of Faith Tours, Tel: 275 70 50 Fax: 275 70 51, [email protected], www.gmtravel.co.il Beit Jala (02) Guiding Star Ltd., Tel: 276 5970, Fax: 276 5971, [email protected] • Luzun, Tel: 282 2628 • Taxis Al-Nasser, Tel: 286 1844, 286 7845 • Al-Wafa, Tel: 284 9144 - 282 4465 • Azhar, Tel: 286 8858 • Midan Filastin, Tel: 286 5242 Beit Sahour (02) Alternative Tourism Group, Tel: 277 2151, Fax: 277 2211, [email protected], www.atg. ps • Brothers Travel & Tours, Tel: 277 5188, Fax: 277 5189, [email protected], www.brostours. com • Grace Tours, Tel: 275 7363, Fax: 277 2420, [email protected] • Magi Tours, Telefax: 277 5798, [email protected] 82 83 Gaza Strip (08) Car Rental Al-Ahli, Tel: 282 8534 • Al-Farouq, Tel: 284 2755 • Imad, Tel: 286 4000 Hebron (02) AL-Afaq for Travel & Umrah, Telefax: 221 1332, [email protected] • AlArrab Tours Tel: 221 1917, [email protected] • Al-Buhaira Tours and Travel co., Telefax: 225 2095, www.AL-BUHAIRA. com, [email protected] • Alkiram Tourism, Tel: 225 6501/2, Fax: 225 6504, [email protected] • Al Raed Travel Agency, Telefax: 229 3030, Mob: 0599 889 477, [email protected] • Al-Salam Travel and Tours Co., Tel: 221 5574, Fax: 223 3747 • Sabeen Travel Tourism, Telefax: 229 4775, [email protected] Ramallah (02) Al-Asmar Travel Agency, Telefax: 295 4140, 296 5775, [email protected] • All Middle East Pilgrimage and Tourism Coordination Office, Tel: 289 8123, Fax: 289 9174, [email protected], www. ameptco.com • Amani Tours, Telefax: 298 7013, [email protected] • Anwar Travel Agency, Tel: 295 6388, 295 1706, [email protected] • Apollo Travel & Tourism Agency, Mob: 0568 038 536, 0568 038 534, Tel: 241 2510, Fax: 251 2567, [email protected] • Arab Office for Travel & Tourism, Tel: 295 6640, Fax: 295 1331 • Arseema for Travel & Tourism, Tel: 297 5571, Fax: 297 5572, [email protected] • Atlas Tours & Travel, Tel: 295 2180, Fax: 298 6395, www.atlasavia.com • Darwish Travel Agency, Tel: 295 6221, Fax: 295 7940 • Golden Globe Tours, Tel: 296 5111, Fax: 296 5110, [email protected] • Issis & Co., Tel: 295 6250, Fax: 295 4305 • Jordan River Tourist & Travel Agency, Tel: 298 0523, Fax: 298 0524 • Kashou’ Travel Agency, Tel: 295 5229, Fax: 295 3107, [email protected] • Mrebe Tours & Travel, Tel: 295 4671, Fax: 295 4672, [email protected] • The Pioneer Links Travel & Tourism Bureau, Tel: 240 7859, Fax: 240 7860, [email protected] • Travel House For Travel & Tourism, Tel: 295 7225, Fax: 296 2634, www.travelhouse.ps • Rahhal Tours & Travel, Tel: 242 3256, Fax: 242 9962, [email protected], www. rahhalyours.ps • Raha Tours and Travel, Tel: 296 1780, Fax: 296 1782, www.rahatt.com, www.rahatravel. com • Reem Travel Agency, Tel: 295 3871, Fax: 295 3871 • Royal Tours, Tel: 296 6350/1, Fax: 296 6635 • Sabeen Travel Tourism, Telefax: 240 5931, [email protected] • Salah Tours, Tel: 295 9931, Fax: 298 7206 • Shbat & Abdul Nur, Tel: 295 6267, Fax: 295 7246 Jenin (04) Asia Travel Tourism, Telefax: 243 5157, www.asia-tourism.net • Al Sadeq Travel & Tourism, Tel: 243 8055, Fax: 243 8057, email: [email protected] Nablus (09) Almadena Tours, Tel: 239 3333, Telefax: 239 3366, [email protected], www.almadena. ps • Cypress Tours, Telfax: 238 1797, [email protected], www.cypress-tours.com • Dream Travel & Tourism, Tel: 233 5056, Fax: 237 2069 • Firas Tours, Tel: 234 4565, Fax: 234 7781 • Hittin Travel & Tours, Tel: 238 2298, Fax: 233 8092 , www. hittin-travel.com • Top Tour, Tel: 238 9159, Fax: 238 1425, toptourandtravel@ yahoo.com • Yaish International Tours, Telefax: 238 1410, 238 1437, [email protected] • Zorba’s Travel Show, Tel: 234 4959, Mob: 0569 282 726 Tulkarem (09) Faj Tours, Tel: 2672 486, Fax: 2686 070, [email protected] Gaza Strip (08) Al-Muntazah Travel Agency, Tel: 282 7919 Fax: 282 4923 • Halabi Tours and Travel Co., Tel: 282 3704, Fax: 286 6075, [email protected], www.halabitours.ps • Maxim Tours, Tel: 282 4415, Fax: 286 7596 • National Tourist Office, Tel: 286 0616, Fax: 286 0682, [email protected] • Time Travel Ltd., Tel: 283 6775, Fax: 283 6855, [email protected] Air France and KLM, Tel: 02-628 2535/6 (Jerusalem), Tel: 08-286 0616 (Gaza) • Air Sinai – Varig, Tel: 02-627 2725 (Jerusalem), Tel: 08-282 1530 (Gaza) • Austrian Airlines Tel: 09-238 2065, Fax: 09-237 5598 (Nablus) • Apollo Travel & Tourism, Tel: 02-241 2510, Fax: 02-241 2567 (Ramallah), Mob: 0568 038 536 • British Airways PLC, Tel: 02-628 8654, Telefax: 02- 628 3602, (Jerusalem) • Cyprus Airways, Tel: 02-240 4894 (Al-Bireh) • Delta Airlines, Tel: 02-296 7250, Telefax: 02-298 6395 (Ramallah) • Egypt Air, Tel: 02-298 6950/49 (Ramallah), Tel: 08-282 1530 (Gaza) • Emirates Airlines, Tel: 02-296 1780 (Ramallah) • Etihad Air Ways, Tel: 02-295 3907 / 02-295 3912 / 02-295 3913, Fax: 02-295 3914, [email protected] (Ramallah), Tel: 02-295 3912/3 (Ramallah) • Iberia, Tel: 02-628 3235/7238 (Jerusalem) • Lufthansa, Tel: 09-238 2065, Fax: 09-237 5598 (Nablus) • Malev-Hungarian Airlines, Tel: 02-295 2180 (Ramallah) • Middle East Car Rental, Tel: 02-295 2602, Fax: 295 2603 • PAL AVIATION, Tel. 02-296 7250 Telefax: 02-298 6395 (Ramallah) • Palestine Airlines, Tel: 08-282 2800 (Gaza), Tel: 08-282 9526/7 (Gaza) • Qatar Airways, Tel: 02-240 4895 (Al-Bireh), Tel: 08-284 2303 (Gaza), Royal Jordanian Airways, Tel: 02-240 5060 (Ramallah), Tel: 08-282 5403/13 (Gaza) • SN Brussels Airlines, Tel: 02-295 2180 (Ramallah), SAS Scandinavian Airlines, Tel: 02-628 3235/7238 (Jerusalem) • South African Airways, Tel: 02-628 6257 (Jerusalem) • Swiss International Airlines, Tel: 02-295 2180 (Ramallah) • Tunis Air, Tel: 02-298 7013 (Ramallah), Tel: 08-286 0616 (Gaza) • Turkish Airlines, Tel: 02-277 0130 (Bethlehem) Airport Information Gaza International Airport, Tel: 08-213 4289 • Ben Gurion Airport, Tel: 03-972 3344 Consulates East Jerusalem (02) Apostolic Delegation, Tel: 628 2298, Fax: 628 1880 • Belgium, Tel: 582 8263, Fax: 581 4063, [email protected] • European Community - Delegation to the OPT, Tel: 541 5888, Fax: 541 5848 • France, Tel: 591 4000, Fax: 582 0032 • Great Britain, Tel: 541 4100, Fax: 532 2368, britain. [email protected], www.britishconsulate.org • Greece, Tel: 582 8316, Fax: 532 5392 • Italy, Tel: 561 8966, Fax: 561 9190 • Spain, Tel: 582 8006, Fax: 582 8065 • Swedish Consulate General, Tel: 646 5860, Fax: 646 5861 • Turkey, Tel: 591 0555-7, Fax: 582 0214, [email protected], www.kudus.bk.mfa.gov.tr • United States of America, Tel: 622 7230, Fax: 625 9270 Representative Offices to the PNA Ramallah & Al-Bireh (02) Argentina Representative Office to the PA, Tel: 241 2848/9, Fax: 241 2850, [email protected] • Australia, Tel: 242 5301, Fax: 240 8290, [email protected], ausaid@palnet. com • Austria, Tel: 240 1477, Fax: 240 0479 • Brazil, Tel: 241 3753, Fax: 241 3756, admin-office@rep-brazil. org • Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela, Tel: 240 58 60/1, Fax: 2405862, representacionenpalestina@ yahoo.com, [email protected] • Canada, Tel: 297 8430, Fax: 297 8446, rmlah@ international.gc.ca • Chile, Tel: 296 0850, Fax: 298 4768, [email protected] • Representative Office of the Republic of Cyprus, Tel: 241 3206, Fax: 241 3208 • Czech Republic, Tel: 296 5595, Fax: 296 5596 • Denmark, Tel: 242 2330, Fax: 240 0331 • Egypt, Tel: 297 7774, Fax: 297 7772 • Finland, Tel: 240 0340, Fax: 240 0343 • Germany, Tel: 298 4788, Fax: 298 4786, [email protected] • Hungary, Tel: 240 7676, Fax: 240 7678, [email protected] • India, Tel: 290 3033, Fax: 290 3035, [email protected] • Ireland, Tel: 240 6811/2/3, Fax: 240 6816, [email protected] • Japan, Tel: 241 3120, Fax: 241 3123 • Jordan, Tel: 297 4625, Fax: 297 4624 • Mexico, Tel: 297 5592, Fax: 297 5594, [email protected] • Norway, Tel: 235 8600, Fax: 235 8699, [email protected] • Poland, Tel: 297 1318, Fax: 297 1319 • Portugal, Tel: 240 7291/3, Fax: 240 7294 • Republic of Korea, Tel: 240 2846/7, Fax: 240 2848 • Russian Federation, Tel: 240 0970, Fax: 240 0971 • South Africa, Tel: 298 7355, Fax: 298 7356, [email protected], www.sarep.org • Sri Lanka, Telefax: 290 4271 • Switzerland, Tel: 240 8360, [email protected] • The Netherlands, Tel: 240 6639, Fax: 240 9638 • The People’s Republic of China, Tel: 295 1222, Fax: 295 1221, chinaoffice@ palnet.com Gaza Strip (08) Egypt, Tel: 282 4290, Fax: 282 0718 • Germany, Tel: 282 5584, Fax: 284 4855 • Jordan, Tel: 282 5134, Fax: 282 5124 • Morocco, Tel: 282 4264, Fax: 282 4104 • Norway, Tel: 282 4615, Fax: 282 1902 • Qatar, Tel: 282 5922, Fax: 282 5932 • South Africa, Tel: 284 1313, Fax: 284 1333 • Tunisia, Tel: 282 5018, Fax: 282 5028 United Nations and International Organisations FAO - Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations Jerusalem (02), Tele: 533 9400, 532 2757, Fax: 540 0027, [email protected], www.fao.org • IBRD - International Bank for Reconstruction and Devel opment (World Bank), West Bank (02), Tel: 236 6500 Fax: 236 6543, Gaza (08) Tel: 282 4746 Fax: 282 4296, [email protected] • IMF, - International Monetary Fund, www.imf.org, Gaza (08), Tel: 282 5913; Fax: 282 5923, West Bank (02), Tel: 236 6530; Fax: 236 6543 • ILO - International Labor Organization, Jerusalem (02), Tel: 626 0212, 628 0933, Fax: 627 6746, [email protected], Ramallah (02), Tel: 290 0022, Fax: 290 0023, Nablus (09), Tel: 237 5692 - 233 8371, Fax: 233 8370 • OHCHR - Office of the High Commissioner for Human Rights, Gaza (08), Tel: 282 7021, Fax: 282 7321, [email protected], West Bank Office, Telefax: 02-296 5534 • UNESCO - United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization, Ramallah (02), Tel: 295 9740, Fax: 295 9741, [email protected] • UNFPA - United Nations Population Fund, Jerusalem (02), Tel: 581 7292, Fax: 581 7382, [email protected], www.unfpa.ps • UNICEF - United Nations Children’s Fund, Jerusalem (02), Tel: 584 0400, Fax: 583 0806, Gaza (08), Tel: 286 2400, Fax: 286 2800, [email protected] • UNIFEM - United Nations Development Fund for Women, Telefax: 628 0450, Tel: 628 0661 • UN OCHA - United Nations Office for Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs, Tel: 582 9962/02 - 582 5853, Fax: 582 5841, [email protected], www.ochaopt.org • UNRWA - United Nations Relief and Works Agency, Gaza (08), Tel: 677 7333, Fax: 677 7555, [email protected], West Bank (02), Tel: 589 0401, Fax: 532 2714, [email protected] • UNSCO - Office of the Special Coordinator for the Middle East Peace Process, Tel: 08-284 3555/02-568 7276, Fax: 08-282 0966/02-568 7288, UNSCO-Media@ un.org, www.unsco.org • UNTSO - United Nations Truce Supervision Organization, Jerusalem (02), Tel: 568 7222 - 568 7444, Fax: 568 7400, [email protected] • WFP - World Food Programme, Gaza (08), Tel: 282 7463, Fax: 282 7921, Jerusalem (02), Tel: 540 1340, Fax: 540 1227, [email protected] • WHO - World Health Organization, Jerusalem (02), Tel: 540 0595, Fax: 581 0193, [email protected], Gaza (08), Tel: 282 2033, Fax: 284 5409, [email protected] • World Bank, Tel: 236 6500, Fax: 236 6543 United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) Programme of Assistance to the Palestinian People (PAPP) 4 Al-Ya’qubi Street, Jerusalem, Tel: 02 6268200, Fax: 02 6268222 E-mail: [email protected] / URL: http://www.papp.undp.org 84 85 Ramallah (02) Quds Bank East Jerusalem (02) Hospitals Augusta Victoria, Tel: 627 9911 • Dajani Maternity, Tel: 583 3906 • Hadassah (Ein Kerem), Tel: 677 7111 • Hadassah (Mt. Scopus), Tel: 584 4111 • Maqassed, Tel: 627 0222 • Red Crescent Maternity, Tel: 628 6694 • St. John’s Opthalmic, Tel: 582 8325 • St. Joseph, Tel: 591 1911 • Clinics and Centers Arab Health Center, Tel: 628 8726 • CHS Clinics, Tel: 628 0602/0499 • Ibn Sina Medical Center, Tel: 540 0083/9, 532 2536 • Jerusalem First Aid Clinic, Tel: 626 4055 • Medical Relief Womens, Health Clinic, Tel: 583 3510 • Palestinian Counseling Center, Tel: 656 2272, 656 2627 • Peace Medical Center, Tel: 532 7111, 532 4259 • Red Crescent Society, Tel: 582 8845 • Spafford Children’s Clinic, Tel: 628 4875 • The Austrian Arab Community Clinic (AACC), Tel: 627 3246 • The Jerusalem Princess Basma Center for Disabled Children, Tel: 628 3058 Bethlehem (02) Hospitals Al-Dibis Maternity, Tel: 274 4242 • Al-Hussein Government, Tel: 274 1161 • Bethlehem Arab Society for Rehabilitation, Tel: 274 4049-51, Fax: 274 4053 • Caritas Baby, Tel: 275 8500, Fax: 275 8501 • Mental Health, Tel: 274 1155 • Shepherd’s Field Hospital, Tel: 277 5092 • St. Mary’s Maternity, Tel: 274 2443 • The Holy Family, Tel: 274 1151, Fax: 274 1154 Clinics and Centers Beit Sahour Medical Center, Tel: 277 4443 • Bethlehem Dental Center, Tel: 274 3303 Hebron (02) Hospitals Amira Alia, Tel: 222 8126 • Al-Ahli, Tel: 222 0212 • Al-Meezan, Tel: 225 7400/1 • Mohammed Ali, Tel: 225 3883/4 • Shaheera, Tel: 222 6982 • St. John’s Opthalmic, Tel: 223 6047 • The Red Crescent, Tel: 222 8333 • Yattah Governmental Hospital, Tel: 227 1017, 227 1019 Clinics and Centers Red Crescent Society, Tel: 222 7450 • UPMRC, Tel: 222 6663 Jericho (02) Hospitals Jericho Government, Tel: 232 1967/8/9 Clinics and Centers UPMRC, Tel: 232 2148 Nablus (09) Hospitals Al-Aqsa Hospital and Medical Center, Tel: 294 7666 • Al-Ittihad, Tel: 237 1491 • Al-Watani, Tel: 238 0039 • Al-Zakat Hospital (TolKarem), Tel: 268 0680 • Aqraba Maternity Home, Tel: 259 8550 • Rafidia, Tel: 239 0390 • Salfit Emergency Governmental Hospital, Tel: 251 5111 • Specialized Arab Hospital, Tel: 239 0390 • St. Luke’s, Tel: 238 3818 • UNRWA Qalqilia Hospital (Qalqiliya), Tel: 294 0008 Clinics and Centers Al-Amal Center, Tel: 238 3778 • Arab Medical Center, Tel: 237 1515 • Hagar (Handicapped Equipment Center), Tel: 239 8687 • Red Crescent Society, Tel: 238 2153 • UPMRC, Tel: 283 7178 Ramallah & Al-Bireh (02) Hospitals Arabcare Hospital, Tel: 298 6420 • AL-Karmel Maternity Home, Tel: 247 1026 • Al-Mustaqbal Hospital, Tel: 240 4562 • AL-Nather Maternity Hospital, Tel: 295 5295 • Ash-Sheikh Zayed Hospital, Tel: 298 8088 • Birziet Maternity Home, Tel: 281 0616 • Care Specialized Dental Center, Tel: 297 5090 • Khaled Surgical Hospital, Tel: 295 5640 • Ramallah Government Hospitals, Tel: 298 2216/7 • Red Crescent Hospital, Tel: 240 6260 Clinics and Centers Arab Medical Center, Tel: 295 4334 • Arabcare Medical Center, Tel: 298 6420 • Emergency & Trauma Center, Tel: 298 8088 • Harb Heart Center, Tel: 296 0336 • Modern Dental Center, Tel: 298 0630 • National Center for Blood Diseases “Hippocrates” Thalessemia and Hemophilia Center, Tel: 296 5082, Fax: 296 5081 • Patients’ Friends Society K. Abu Raya Rehabilitation Centre, Tel: 295 7060/1 • Palestinian Hemophilia Association-PHA, Telefax: 297 5588 • Peace Medical Center, Tel: 295 9276 • Red Crescent Society, Tel: 240 6260 • UPMRC, Tel: 298 4423, 296 0686 Gaza Strip (08) Hospitals Al-Ahli Al-Arabi, Tel: 286 3014 • Dar Al-Salam, Tel: 285 4240 • Nasser, Tel: 205 1244 • Shifa, Tel: 286 2765 Clinics and Centers Arab Medical Center, Tel: 286 2163 • Beit Hanoun Clinic, Tel: 285 8065 • Dar Al-Shifa, Tel: 286 5520 • Hagar (Handicapped Equipment Center), Tel: 284 2636 • St. John’s Opthalmic, Tel: 284 8445 • UPMRC, Tel: 282 7837 (Al-Masyoon), Tel: 297 0014, (El-Bireh), Tel: 298 3391 • National Bank, (Hebron), Tel: 221 6222, Fax: 221 6231, (Ramallah: HQ), Tel: 294 6090, Fax: 294 6114, (Al Masyoun Branch), Tel: 297 7731, Fax: 297 7730, (Al Irsal Branch), Tel: 297 8700, Fax: 297 8701, (Nablus), Tel: 238 0802, Fax: 238 0801 • Arab Bank, (Al-Balad) Tel: 298 6480, Fax: 298 6488 • Arab Bank, (Al-Bireh), Tel: 295 9581, Fax: 295 9588 • Arab Bank, (Al-Manara) Tel: 295 4821, Fax: 295 4824 • Arab Bank (Masyoun Branch), Tel: 297 8100 • Arab Land Bank, Tel: 295 8421 • Bank of Palestine, Tel: 296 5010, Fax: 298 5920 • Bank of Palestine, (Al-Irsal) Tel: 296 6860, Fax: 296 6864 • Arab Palestinian Investment Bank, Tel: 298 7126, Fax: 298 7125 • Beit Al-Mal Holdings, Tel: 298 6916, Fax: 298 6916 • HSBC Bank Middle East, Tel: 298 7802, Fax: 298 7804 • Jordan Ahli Bank, (Ramallah Branch), Tel: 298 6313, Fax: 298 6311, (Nablus Branch), Tel: 04-238 2280, (Bethlehem Branch), Tel: 277 0351, • Cairo-Amman Bank, Tel: 298 3500, Fax: 295 5437 • The Center for Private Enterprise Development, Tel: 298 6786, Fax: 298 6787 • Commercial Bank of Palestine, Tel: 295 4141, Fax: 295 4145 • Cooperative Development Unit, Tel: 290 0029, Fax: 290 0029 • Deutsche Ausgleichsbank (DTA), Tel: 298 4462, Fax: 295 2610 • The Housing Bank, Tel: 298 6270, Fax: 298 6276 • International Islamic Arab Bank, Tel: 240 7060, Fax: 240 7065 • Jordan Bank, Tel: 295 8686, Fax: 2958684 • Jordan-Gulf Bank, Tel: 298 7680, Fax: 298 7682 • Jordan-Kuwait Bank, Tel: 240 6725, Fax: 240 6728 • Jordan National Bank, Tel: 295 9343, Fax: 295 9341 • Palestine International Bank (PIB), Tel: 298 3300, Fax: 298 3333 • Palestine Investment Bank, Tel: 298 7880, Fax: 298 7881 • Palestine Islamic Bank, Tel: 295 0247, Fax: 295 7146 • Union Bank, Tel: 298 6412, Fax: 295 6416 Gaza Strip (08) Quds Bank (Al-Remal), Tel: 284 4333 • Arab Bank, Tel: 08-286 6288, Fax: 282 0704 • Arab Bank (Al-Rimal), Tel: 282 4729, Fax: 282 4719 • Arab Bank, (Khan Younis) Tel: 205 4775, Fax: 205 4745 • Arab Bank (Karny), Tel: 280 0020, Fax: 280 0028 • Arab Land Bank, Tel: 282 2046, Fax: 282 1099 • Bank of Palestine Ltd., Tel: 282 3272, Fax: 286 5667 • Beit Al-Mal Holdings, Tel: 282 0722, Fax: 282 5786 • Cairo-Amman Bank, Tel: 282 4950, Fax: 282 4830 • Commercial Bank of Palestine, Tel: 282 5806, Fax: 282 5816 • The Housing Bank, Tel: 282 6322, Fax: 286 1143 • Jordan Bank, Tel: 282 0707, Fax: 282 4341 • Palestine Development Fund, Tel: 282 4286, Fax: 282 4286 • Palestine International Bank (PIB), Tel: 284 4333, Fax: 284 4303 • Palestine Investment Bank, Tel: 282 2105, Fax: 282 2107 Nablus (09) Quds Bank, Tel: 235 9741, (Nablus Aljded) , Tel: 239 7782 • Arab Bank, Tel: 238 2340, Fax: 238 2351 • Arab Bank (Askar), Tel: 231 1694, Fax: 234 2076 • Arab Land Bank, Tel: 238 3651, Fax: 238 3650 • Bank of Palestine Ltd., Tel: 238 2030, Fax: 238 2923 • Bank of Palestine (Al-Misbah), Tel: 231 1460, Fax: 231 1922 • Cairo-Amman Bank, Tel: 238 1301, Fax: 238 1590 • Commercial Bank of Palestine, Tel: 238 5160, Fax: 238 5169 • The Housing Bank, Tel: 238 6060, Fax: 238 6066 • Jordan Bank, Tel: 238 1120, Fax: 238 1126 • Jordan-Gulf Bank, Tel: 238 2191, Fax: 238 1953 • Jordan-Kuwait Bank, Tel: 237 7223, Fax: 237 7181 • Jordan-National Bank, Tel: 238 2280, Fax: 238 2283 • Palestine Investment Bank, Tel: 238 5051, Fax: 238 5057 • Palestine International Bank, Tel: 239 7780, Fax: 239 7788 City Fire Ambulance Police Jerusalem* CHS (Old City Jerusalem) Bethlehem Gaza Hebron Jericho Jenin Nablus Ramallah Child Helpline Palestine Tulkarem Qalqilia 02-6282222 101 / 050-319120 02-274 1123 08-2863633 102/22 28121-2-3 02-232 2658 04-250 1225 09-238 3444 02-295 6102 (121) free line 09-267 2106 09-294 0440 101 100 101 / 02-274 4222 101 / 08-2863633 101 101 / 02-232 1170 101 / 04-250 2601 101 / 09-238 0399 101 / 02-240 0666 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 101 / 09-267 2140 101 / 09-294 0440 100 100 Telephone Services East Jerusalem (02) Quds Bank (Al-Ezzarieh), Tel: 279 8803 • Arab Bank (Al-Ezzarieh), Tel: 279 6671, Fax: 279 6677 • Arab Bank (Al-Ram), Tel: 234 8710, Fax: 234 8717 • Center for Development Consultancy (CDC), Tel: 583 3183, Fax: 583 3185 • Commercial Bank of Palestine, Tel: 279 9886, Fax: 279 9258 Bethlehem (02) Arab Bank, Tel: 277 0080, Fax: 277 0088 • Arab Land Bank, Tel: 274 0861 • Cairo- Amman Bank, Tel: 274 4971, Fax: 274 4974 • Jordan National Bank, Tel: 277 0351, Fax: 277 0354 • Bank of Palestine Ltd., Tel: 276 5515/6, Fax: 276 5517 • Palestine Investment Bank, Tel: 277 0888, Fax: 277 0889 Hebron (02) Quds Bank, Tel: 221 1357 • Al-Ahli Bank, Tel: 222 4801/2/3/4 • Arab Bank, Tel: 222 6410, Fax: 222 6418 • Bank of Palestine Ltd., Tel: 225 0001/2/3 • Cairo-Amman Bank, (Wadi Al-Tuffah) Tel: 222 5353/4/5 • Cairo-Amman Bank, (Al-Balad) Tel: 222 9803/4 • Cairo-Amman Bank, (The Islamic Branch) Tel: 222 7877 • Islamic Arab Bank, Tel: 2254156/7 • Islamic Bank, Tel: 222 6768 • Jordan Bank, Tel: 222 4351/2/3/4 • Palestine Investment Bank, Tel: 225 2701/2/3/4 • The Housing Bank, Tel: 225 0055 86 Bezeq Wake up calls Talking Clock Time around the world Vocal Information Pager Service Repeat call Last call Call waiting Call forwarding General information Services Corporate services 1475 1455 1975 1705 *41 *42 *70 *71 199 164 166 Paltel Wake up calls Free fax service Follow me (forwarding calls) Phone book Maintenance Information Internet maintenance 175 167 Tourism and Antiquities Police 72* 144 166 199 167 Border Crossings Calls from Overseas Dial access code, international country code (972) or (970), area code (without the zero), desired number 87 Bethlehem Gaza Jericho Nablus Allenby Bridge Arava Border Eretz Crossing Rafah Border Sheikh Hussien 02-277 0750/1 08-282 9017 02-232 4011 09-385 244 02-994 2302 08-630 0555 08-674 1672 08-673 4205 04-609 3410 As Palestine continues its struggle for independence, it has already begun to acquire sovereign cyberspace recognition. A difficult three-year international debate resulted in the “Occupied Palestinian Territory” being officially assigned the two-letter suffix, “.ps,” in the ISO 3166-1 list for the representation of names of countries or territories. The successful struggle to attain country code 970 led the way for the Internet Corporation for Associated Names and Numbers (ICANN), the international corporation that manages the country code Top-Level Domain (ccTLD) system on the Internet, on 22 March 2000, to assign Palestine its unique country identifier, “.ps,” in line with other sovereign nations such as .fr for France and .ca for Canada. Arts and Culture: Al Rowwad Theatre Centre www.alrowwad.virtualactivism.net, A.M. Qattan Foundation www.qattanfoundation.org, Ashtar Theater www.ashtar-theatre.org, Al Kasaba Theatre and Cinematheque www.alkasaba.org, Al-Ma’mal Foundation for Contemporary Art www.almamalfoundation. org, Al Mathaf www.almathaf.ps, ArtSchool Palestine www.artschoolpalestine.com, Baha Boukhari www. baha-cartoon.net, Educational Bookshop www.educationalbookshop.com, Family Net www.palestinefamily.net, Khalil Sakakini Cultural Center (Ramallah) www.sakakini.org, Paltel Virtual Gallery (Birzeit University) www.virtualgallery.birzeit.edu, Rim Banna www.rimbanna.com, RIWAQ: Centre for Architectural Conservation www.riwaq.org, Sunbula (fair trade/crafts) www.sunbula.org, The Popular Arts Centre www.popularartcentre.org, Sumud www.sumud.net, Palestinian Pottery www.palestinianpottery.com, The International Center of Bethlehem (Dar Annadwa) www.annadwa.org, The Musical Intifada www. docjazz.com, El-funoun www.el-funoun.org, Sabreen Association for Artistic Development www.sabreen. org, The Virtual Gallery www.virtualgallery.birzeit.edu Business and Economy: Arab Palestinian Investment Company www.apic-pal.com, Hebron Store www.hebron-store.com, Jawwal www.jawwal.ps, Massar www.massar.com, The Palestinian Economic Council for Development and Reconstruction (PECDAR) www.pecdar.org, Palestinian Securities Exchange, Ltd. www.p-s-e.com, Palestine Development and Investment Ltd. (PADICO) www.padico. com, Paltel Group. www.paltelgroup.ps, Tatweer Information Technology & Business Solutions www. progress.ps, Wataniya Palestine www.wataniya-palestine.com Directories, ISPs and Portals: Jaffa Net www.weino.com, Hadara www.hadara.ps, Al-Quds Network www.alqudsnet.com, Masader, the Palestinian NGO Portal www.masader.ps, Palseek www.palseek. com, Paleye www.paleye.com, Al Buraq www.alburaq.net, The Palestinian NGO Portal www.masader.ps Government: PLO Negotiations Affairs Department (NAD) www.nad-plo.org, PNA www.pna.gov.ps, Ministry of Higher Education www.mohe.gov.ps, Ministry of Industry www.industry.gov.ps, Ministry of Education www.moe.gov.ps, Ministry of Health www.moh.gov.ps, Government Computer Center www. gcc.gov.ps, Orient House www.orienthouse.org Health and Mental Health: Augusta Victoria Hospital www.avh.org, Gaza Community Mental Health Programme www.gcmhp.net, Ministry of Health www.moh.gov.ps, Palestinian Counseling Center www.pcc-jer.org, Red Crescent Society www.palestinercs.org, Spafford Children’s Clinic www.spaffordjerusalem.org, UNFPA www.unfpa.ps, Union of Palestinian Medical Relief Committees www.upmrc.org, Bethlehem Arab Society for Rehabilitation www.basr.org, Palestine Medical Council www.pmc.ps Human Rights Organisations: Al Haq www.alhaq.org, Defence for Children International Palestine Section www.dci-pal.org, Human Rights and Good Governance Secretariat in the oPt www.humanrights. ps, LAW - The Palestinian Society for the Protection of Human Rights and the Environment www.lawsociety.org, The Palestinian Centre for Human Rights www.pchrgaza.org, BADIL www.badil.org, Women’s Affairs Technical Committee (WATC) www.pal-watc.org; www.pcc-jer.org Research and News: Applied Research Institute - Jerusalem www.arij.org, Gaza News www. gazanews.com, JMCC www.jmcc.org, PASSIA www.passia.org, MIFTAH www.miftah.org, AMIN www. amin.org, Al Quds www.alquds.com, Al Ayyam www.al-ayyam.com, WAFA www.wafa.pna.net, Palestine Wildlife Society www.wildlife-pal.org, 93.6 RAM FM www.ramfm.net, Ramallah on line www.ramallahonline. com, Ramattan Studios www.ramattan.com, Palestine Family Net www.palestine-family.net, Palestine Mapping Centre www.palmap.org, The Palestine Monitor www.palestinemonitor.org, The Palestinian Center for Rapprochement between People www.imemc.org, OCHA- The United Nations Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs www.ochaopt.org, Englishpal www.englishpal.ps, Ma’an News Agency www.maannews.net/en Tourism: Ministry of Tourism www.travelpalestine.ps, Arab Hotel Association www.palestinehotels. com, Holy land Incoming Tour Operators Association www.holylandoperators.com, Diyafa Hospitality Management Consultants Group www.diyafa.ps, Ramallah Tourist Information Center tic@ramallah. ps, visitpalestine www.visitpalestine.ps Travel Agencies: Alternative Tourism Group www.patg.org, Atlas Aviation www.atlasavia.com, Awad Tourist Agency www.awad-tours.com, Aweidah Tours www.aweidah.com, Blessed Land Travel www. blessedland.com, Crown Tours www.crown-tours.com, Daher Travel www.dahertravel.com, Guiding Star www.guidingstarltd.com, Halabi Tours and Travel Co. www.halabitours.ps, Jiro Tours www.jirotours.com, Mt. of Olives Tours www.olivetours.com, Pioneer Links www.pioneer-links.com, Raha Tours www.rahatravel. com, Ramallah Travel Agency www.kaoud.org, United Travel www.unitedtravelltd.com, Universal Tourist Agency www.universal-jer.com Universities: Birzeit University www.birzeit.edu, An-Najjah University www.najah.edu, Al-Quds University www.alquds.edu, Al-Azhar University (Gaza) www.alazhar-gaza.edu, Arab American University www.aauj.edu, Bethlehem University www.bethlehem.edu, Hebron University www.hebron.edu, The Islamic University (Gaza) www.iugaza.edu, Palestine Polytechnic www.ppi.edu 88 Map Source: PalMap - GSE © Copyright to GSE and PalMap Map source, designer and publisher: GSE - Good Shepherd Engineering & Computing P.O.Box 524, 8 Jamal Abdel Nasser St., Bethlehem, West Bank, Palestine Tel: +970 2 2744728 / Fax: +970 2 2751204 (Also +972) [email protected] / www.gsecc.com / www.palmap.org 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 Hope, Pride, and Selfconfidence Referring to Ben Gurion’s infamous saying, “The old will die and the young will forget,” Jareer Kassis posted the following comment on Facebook the night Mohammad Assaf won the Arab Idol singing competition: “… So no, Mr. Ben Gurion, the young did not forget.” By the time you read this column, a week or so will have passed since the night Palestine rocketed itself back into the Arab world; this time though, with its head raised in pride and confidence. I am certain that the euphoria of winning Arab Idol has waned by now; however, it is important to document the moment because of its significance, not only socially and culturally, but also politically. In my opinion, it will take Israel years to erase the increment in the sense of nationalism that Palestinians have gained from such an apolitical event. In fact, I doubt that it will succeed at all since this feeling is simply irreversible. Much to the chagrin of right-wing Israeli politicians and strategists, Mohammad Assaf has unequivocally proved that Palestinians are one people, whether they live in Jerusalem, the West Bank, Gaza, 1948 Palestine, Lebanon’s refugee camps, or even Chile. Short of a few who insist on living in the Middle Ages, almost all celebrated Palestine’s win as if Mohammad Assaf were their next-door neighbour. Throughout the night, Palestinians took to the streets, cheering Assaf and Palestine, and cars honked in jubilation. Kassis later posted, “No people surpass the Palestinian people in the art of car-honking!” Similar to all other Palestinian cities, towns, villages, and refugee camps last night, Jerusalem was up and about wearing its Palestinian regalia, reminiscent of the day Faisal Husseini passed away, and the Knesset annexation of the eastern part of the city was rendered null and void. Jokingly, Sam Bahour also posted the following comment on Facebook: “Breaking News: Israeli Prime Minister holds emergency press conference to announce that tonight the Palestinians have crossed a red line, they are now in possession of Weapons of Mass Celebration, and as such, the military occupation must continue.” Amira Hass wrote that Palestinians want “a national hero whose name and actions are associated with happiness, success, and life, not pain, suffering, and mourning.” Last night, Palestinians got their hero. Khaled Elayyan went so far as to say that, effectively and inadvertently, Mohammad Assaf has started a third Intifada; an Intifada against depression; an Intifada of hope, joy, and strength, and an Intifada of the poor – enabling them to break the siege and communicate with the world. The late President Arafat once said, “Our revolution is not just a rifle, it is a painter’s brush, a poet’s poem, and a singer’s voice.” He would have been proud last night. The celebrations are over and now the twenty-three-year-old star has to carry the yoke of celebrity and the torch of Palestine, which is not an easy task. For starters, I wonder how he will get the Chevrolet he won into Gaza. Ship it from Beirut to Rafah through Cairo, and then smuggle it through the tunnels? It’s never easy for us Palestinians, I suppose. Nevertheless, last night Palestine won a major battle that added much-needed qualitative arsenal in the war of attrition that has been forced upon it; the arsenal of hope, pride, and self-confidence brought about by a young and talented singer from a refugee camp in Khan Younis. The Harvest; oil on canvas, 1977, by Suleiman Mansour.