Paper Id: “ST- 104" Dyeing to Sustain: “Encouraging Eco Conscious

Transcription

Dyeing To Sustain: Encouraging Eco-Conscious Lifestyle
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Paper Id: “ST- 104"
TITLE
Dyeing to Sustain:
“Encouraging Eco Conscious Lifestyle & Social Responsibility"
Developed By:
RICHA LAKWAL
Faculty (Fashion Design), ARCH ACADEMY OF DESIGN (Jaipur),
Alumna of National Institute of Fashion Technology (Gandhinagar)
Submitted To:
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Hyderabad (Andhra Pradesh)
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AIM:
Intends to translate the passion for our ethnic crafts and business ideology into satisfying career opportunities
for the hand block printing, tie-dye & handloom-weaving craft artisans, by improving the craft value chain to
help revive and sustain eco-heritage textile craft industry.
KEYWORDS:
Natural dyes – eco-friendly – eco-ethics - sustainability – building community (producers, promoters &
consumers) – sustainable Supply Value Chain
ABSTRACT:
The idea derives from the fact that the textile industry which involves the Weavers, Dyers and Craftsmen with
intrinsic traditional wisdom of eco-friendly natural dyeing & weaving techniques further value added with
indigenous1 hand-printing (block printing, tie-dye, shibori) skills are transitioned to the use of synthetic dyes
causing hazardous effluent and adverse environmental impacts. The paper portrays the need of reviving these
heritage crafts and re-establishing the skilled craft communities through mobilization, awareness generation,
dedicated design & product development, and technological up-gradation to strengthen and improve the value
chain of natural dyed/ hand printed textile products of India. This will result in mainstreaming the Eco craft
products and reduction of ecological impacts through effective use of environment friendly dyes. The paper is
suggestive of an integrated design intervention based on triple bottom line approach (social, economy,
environment) and includes multiple interventions –
Sensitization & orientation of Textile industry, Artisan communities, Government & global Consumers
for the use of natural products,
Organized cultivation & aggregation of natural dye2 sources (backward linkages),
Scientific processing for dye extraction & storage, Standardization3 of production norms/ procedures to
attain desired color palette for making hi-fashion products (horizontal linkages)
Branding, Packaging & Market promotion (vertical linkages)
so as to ensure occupational health and safety of the artisans, position green textile products in hi-fashion
markets, augment its marketability worldwide, provide sustainable livelihood solutions to marginalized
communities, and reduce the impact of chemical dyes on ecosystem.
PROBLEM STATEMENT:
The textile industry is one of the most chemically intensive industries in the world and is the biggest
environmentally polluting industries after agriculture. Moreover, despite the textile industry being the second
largest employer in India, yet there has been no previous investment on the occupational health and safety of
the artisans engaged in textile production activities. In Rajasthan4, the textile industry produces the most
hazardous waste and proper disposal facilities are not available. Though, the growth of micro, small and medium
enterprises (MSMEs) in this industry has had a positive impact on economic development in many countries, it
also led to the altered production processes resulting in a range of environment and health hazards. With
changing market preferences, the traditional craft production processes were altered resulting in the intensive
degradation of natural resources.
1
In biogeography, a species is defined as native (or indigenous) to a given region or ecosystem if its presence in that region is the result of only natural
processes, with no human intervention. Every natural organism (as opposed to a domesticated organism) has its own natural range of distribution in which
it is regarded as native.
2
Natural dyes are dyes or colorants derived from plants, invertebrates, or minerals. The majority of natural dyes are vegetable dyes from plant sources –
roots, berries, bark, leaves, and wood—and other organic sources such as fungi and lichens.
3
A framework of agreements to which all relevant parties in an industry or organization must adhere to ensure that all processes associated with the
creation of a good or performance of a service are performed within set guidelines. This is done to ensure the end product has consistent quality, and that
any conclusions made are comparable with all other equivalent items in the same class.
4
Rajasthan known as "the land of kings", is the largest state of the Republic of India by area. It is located in the west of India. It comprises most of the area
of the large, inhospitable Thar Desert, also known as the Great Indian Desert, which parallels the Sutlej-Indus river valley along its border with Pakistan to
the west. Rajasthan is also bordered by Gujarat to the southwest, Madhya Pradesh to the southeast, Uttar Pradesh and Haryana to the northeast and
Punjab to the north. Rajasthan covers 10.4% of India, an area of 342,239 square kilometres (132,139 sq mi).
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INTRODUCTION:
Textile materials (both natural and synthetic fabrics) are generally dyed and hand/ screen/ roll printed for
further value addition as per the destined market segments and customers. In ancient times, the process of
dyeing textile was initiated using dyes extracted from natural sources (plants, vegetable, flowers), until synthetic
pigments/dyes were invented and commercialized.
Owing to ready availability of synthetic dyes, its durability and cost effectiveness, most of the textile dyers/
manufacturers inclined towards use of synthetic colourants. Since, most of the synthetic colourants being
synthesized from petrochemical sources through hazardous chemical processes, it poses great threat to ecology.
This has gradually resulted in growing consciousness worldwide about organic value of eco-friendly products and
renewed interest of consumers towards use of textiles (preferably natural fibres) dyed with eco-friendly natural
dyes. Natural dyes are known for their use in colouring of natural fibres like wool, silk & cotton, food products,
and leather as major areas of application since pre-historic times. Although the ancient art of dyeing textiles
with natural dyes withstood the ravages of time, but due to the wide & easy availability of synthetic dyes at
much economical price, a rapid decline in natural dyeing continued. However, even after a century, the uses of
natural dyes never erode completely and are still being used in different places of the world. Thus, natural
dyeing of different textiles and leather has been continued mainly in the decentralized sector for specialty
products vis-à-vis the use of synthetic dyes on the large scale for common textiles/ apparels.
The market for natural dyes is growing. Although it is still a niche market, it is directly linked to the increased
environmental awareness of the consumer. Market opportunities especially exist in the green textile industry
and Eco-fashion. In recent times, many commercial dyers and export-houses are reconsidering the possibilities
of using natural dyes for dyeing and printing of textiles for high value global markets since natural dyes besides
its eco-friendly behavior & social ethics, produce very uncommon, soothing and soft shades as compared to
synthetic dyes. On the other hand, though synthetic dyes are more economical and produce a wide variety of
colours, it causes skin allergy and other harms to human body, produces toxicity/chemical hazards during its
synthesis, releases undesirable toxic chemicals, effluent etc. Thus, with an increased number of companies that
are certified or exploring the commercial opportunities of green products, the demand for natural dyes is
expected to increase to a great extent. The new diversion today to the luxury market is the eco-fashion product
which is supported by a social message where the customer pays a premium price intentionally knowing that
this will one day save the earth where he/she dwells.
Thus to achieve effective commercial use of natural dyes for any particular fiber and to obtain exclusive natural
color palate with acceptable colour fastness & reproducible colour yield, appropriate & standardized scientific
dyeing techniques and procedures needs to be derived and adopted for the overall sectoral and societal growth.
ADVANTAGES & DISADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES
Advantages of natural dyes & colorantsi. Naturally dyed yarn absorbs UV-light and the inherent, life-long UV-protection quality of natural dyed fabric
greatly reduces the scorching effect of direct sunlight, making it ideal for sports and outdoor wear.
ii. The embedded anti-microbial agent of natural dyed fabric retards bacteria from growing on perspiration and
hence little or no body odour develops.
iii. The skin-friendly colours and auxiliaries of natural dyed fabrics ensure they are comfortable to wear due to
the use of Non-irritating natural dyes and non-toxic mordants5.
iv. The shades produced by natural dyes/colorants are usually soft, lustrous and soothing to the human eye.
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A mordant is a substance used to set dyes on fabrics or tissue sections by forming a coordination complex with the dye which then attaches to the fabric
or tissue.[1] It may be used for dyeing fabrics, or for intensifying stains in cell or tissue preparations.
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v. Natural dyestuff can also produce a wide range of colours by mix and match system. A small variation in the
dyeing technique or the use of different mordant with the same dye (polygenetic type natural dye) can shift the
colours to a wide range or create totally new colours, which are not so easily possible with synthetic dyestuffs.
Natural dyestuffs produce rare colour ideas and are self harmonizing.
vi. Unlike non-renewable basic raw materials for synthetic dyes, the natural dyes are usually renewable (agrorenewable/ vegetable based) and at the same time bio-degradable6. In some cases like Harda, Indigo7 etc., the
waste in the process becomes an ideal fertilizer for use in agriculture fields; therefore, no problem of disposal of
this natural waste.
vii. Many plants thrive on wastelands. Thus, wasteland utilization is an added merit of the natural dyes. Dyes like
madder8 grow as host in tea gardens. So there is no additional cost or effort required to grow it.
Leaf collection
Ghats
area
in
Western
Re-planting degraded forest land
Poly-house and
plant cultivation
net-shade
for
dye
viii. This is a labour intensive industry, thereby providing job opportunities for all those engaged in cultivation,
aggregation, extraction, and application of these dyes on textile/food/leather etc.
ix. Application of natural dyes has potential to earn carbon credit by reducing consumption of fossil9 fuel
(petroleum) based synthetic dyes.
x. Some of the natural dyes are enhanced with age, while synthetic dyes fade with time. Natural dyes bleed but
do not stain other fabrics, turmeric being an exception.
xi. Natural dyes are usually moth proof and can replace synthetic dyes in Kids’ garments and food-stuffs for
health & safety.
Despite these advantages, natural dyes do carry some inherent disadvantages, which are responsible for the
decline of this ancient art of dyeing textiles.
6
The term is often used in relation to ecology, waste management, biomedicine, and the natural environment (bioremediation) and is now commonly
associated with environmentally friendly products that are capable of decomposing back into natural elements.
7
Indigo dye is an organic compound with a distinctive blue color. Historically, indigo was a natural extracted from plants, and this process was important
economically because blue dyes were once rare.
8
A southwest Asian perennial plant (Rubia tinctorum) having small yellow flowers, whorled leaves, and a red root. The root of this plant is an important
source of the dye alizarin. A red dye obtained from the roots of this plant. A medium to strong red or reddish orange.
9
Fossils (from Classical Latin fossils, literally "obtained by digging") are the preserved remains or traces of animals (also known as zoolites), plants, and
other organisms from the remote past. The totality of fossils, both discovered and undiscovered, and their placement in fossiliferous (fossil-containing)
rock formations and sedimentary layers (strata) is known as the fossil record.
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Disadvantages/ Limitations of natural dyes & colorantsi. It is difficult to reproduce similar shades by using natural dyes/colorants, as these agro products vary from one
crop season to another crop season, place to place, species to species, maturity period etc.
ii. It is difficult to standardize a recipe for the use of natural dyes, as the natural dyeing process and its colour
development depends not only on colour component but also on materials to be used at.
iii. Handful of craftsmen left who have the intrinsic traditional wisdom of natural dyes & dyeing techniques. Lack
of availability of precise technical knowledge on extraction and dyeing techniques.
iv. Natural dyeing being labour intensive and requires skilled workmanship, is therefore expensive. Low colour
yield of source (natural dye plants, vegetables) necessitates the use of more dyestuffs, larger dyeing time and
excess cost for mordants and mordanting.
v. Scientific backup of a large part of the science involved in natural dyeing is still need to be explored.
vi. The dyed textile may change colour when exposed to the sun, sweat and air.
vii. Nearly all-natural dyes (with a few exceptions) require the use of mordants to fix them on to the textile
substrate. While dyeing, a substantial portion of the mordant remains unexhausted in the residual dye bath and
may pose serious effluent10 disposal problem.
viii. With a few exceptions, most of the natural dyes are fugitive even when applied in conjunction with a
mordant. Therefore, sometimes their colour fastness performance ratings are inadequate for modern textile
usage.
CHALLENGES (projected):
• Adoption of improved package of practices may be slow due to the prevalence of age old traditional practices
or resistance to change
• Artisans may not accept readily to go through long term skill-training as they are displaced temporarily from
their bread earning jobs
• Commercial production of natural dye products
• Consumer’s response to the natural dye products may be slow due to high price
• Logistic problems are anticipated during the pilot level implementation of the intervention
• Marketing of natural dye products may become difficult if the products are not as per international standards
RECOMMENDATIONS:
Based on the findings of the research and analysis work, following possible interventions are suggested to
achieve the overall objective:
1. Standardization of Natural dye
Setup of ‘Heritage Craft Incubation Centre’:
The establishment of ‘Heritage Craft Incubation Centre’ can be helpful to disseminate the desired
technical know-how & analytical services to young & budding craftsmen, craft/ design/ fashion
institutes, and museums in India & abroad. The use of modern technology and micro analysis techniques
will help analyzing tiny fiber samples from antique garments and textiles serving the preservation and
restoration of such antique holdings. This will facilitate reproduction of natural dye colors used in age-
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Effluent in the artificial sense is in general considered to be water pollution, such as the outflow from a sewage treatment facility or the wastewater
discharge from industrial facilities. An effluent sump pump, for instance, pumps waste from toilets installed below a main sewage line.
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old traditional Indian dying, weaving, and printing techniques. Besides, proper documentation (text/
electronic) of traditional dye sources and techniques to ensure they are not lost over time.
The natural dyes research and sampling process in the laboratory will promote dyes having antibacterial, anti-microbial properties and free of toxins & carcinogens11. This will reflect the Cultural
Foundation to promote and preserve India’s cultural heritage by creating a scientific inventory of natural
dyes, contributing to the revival of the natural dyeing & production process, and encouraging the use of
natural dyes in textile production, as well.
The intervention12 will involve procurement & processing of natural dyes for various end users (textile &
food industry) and ensure continuous supply of dye material for commercial production. The major
interventions are scientific research, technological up-gradation, product standardization, enhanced
color fastness, sustainable production & supply of natural dyes to strengthen supply chain.
Use of Hybrid variety of seeds of the plants from which natural dyes are extracted:
Through scientific cross-pollinating of plants and use of genetically modified seeds, champion farmers
could produce varieties that are healthier and more compatible to the micro-climatic conditions — soil,
water, weather pattern, predatory13 insects, etc. Tested seeds (improved varieties) can be then supplied
to targeted farmers for mass production of dye plants of desired quality & properties.
Dye-yielding plants have been identified that can be used to re-vegetate14 degraded forests and provide
income to rural women collecting chromogenic leaves in a sustainable15 manner. The solid waste is used
as manure and the treated waste-water meets parameters for irrigation. Fortunately, so many unique
and attractive features could be offered to meet the expectations of an increasingly environmentconscious public.
Introducing Color Palette for Natural dyes:
Like the Pantone Colour Palette16, Colour Library / colour chart can be prepared resulting into an
extensive & exclusive collection of all the natural dyes with their corresponding origin source, mordant
and the different fabrics, for ready reference. The color palette will be as per season and weather, as the
cultivation of the crop happens as per climatic conditions. For successful commercial use of natural dyes,
appropriate and standardized dyeing techniques need to be adopted without compromising on quality
of dyed textiles materials, its behavior & reproducible colour yield. Thus, appropriate production
techniques & procedures need to be derived from scientific studies on dyeing materials, dyeing
methods, dyeing kinetics and compatibility of selective natural dyes.
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12
causing or tending to cause cancer; "the carcinogenic action of certain chemicals"
An intervention is the act of inserting one thing between others, like a person trying to help.
13
In ecology, predation describes a biological interaction where a predator (an organism that is hunting) feeds on its prey (the organism that is attacked).
Predators may or may not kill their prey prior to feeding on them, but the act of predation often results in the death of its prey and the eventual
absorption of the prey's tissue through consumption.
14
To grow again and produce new tissue, esp. to produce new growth on bare ground.
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16
Capable of being maintained at a steady level without exhausting natural resources or causing severe ecological damage.
The range of colors used in a particular painting or by a particular artist.
Indigo(Blue)
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Manjistha (scarlet red and pink)
-
Helu - Meyna laxiflora (yellow)
Harda (mordant)
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2. Orientation Workshops & Skill Training: Educate to Sustain
To address the risks anticipated, participatory & interactive orientation programmes could be conducted
to mobilize & sensitize the artisans (producers) and women groups, through convergence with Govt. &
Non-Govt. agencies & line departments. Project related activities to be interwoven with the govt.
sponsored development programmes to ensure better availability of resources. The user friendly
training modules should be prepared in vernacular17 language and short/ long term training
programmes will be planned to
motivate farmers/ tribal SHGs, cultivation & collection of dye sources and their post harvest
value addition practices,
impart entrepreneurial skills & financial literacy to weavers & artisans involved in textile,
handicraft & surface ornamentation
Develop training modules and assessment of impact of trainings
The proposed training incubation center(s) will stimulate potential enterprises for commercial
production of natural dye stuff. Scholarships programmes for eligible children of craft artisans could be
initiated to support their primary school/design education incorporating the essential elements like
entrepreneurial skills and financial literacy (basic accounting, bank linkages, transformative finance,
business planning, etc) in collaboration with Govt./ Non-Govt. organizations, Industry association,
Design/ Academic institutes, etc. These capacity building initiatives will enable the young craft artisans
to become successful entrepreneurs and will finally lead to promotion of heritage crafts, at global level.
Encouraging the new generation of the craft community is challenging but the well-designed orientation
programmes would sensitize the communities In order to make them visualize the long-term benefits &
great scope in their heritage crafts, instead of opting for other non-skilled alternate source of livelihood.
3. Supply Chain mechanism:
Establishment of ‘Aggregation cum Pilot Processing Plants’ at cluster level (close to the farm gates) has
to be planned for the post-harvest value addition processes (sorting, grading, plucking, solar drying,
grinding, packing, branding, extraction) of the dyes. The dye plants/ stuff could be sourced directly from
the target farmers growing the natural dye plants. The processing plant will supply dyes in concentrated
form to the dyers and printers to reduce drudgery18 and will evolve an organized quality-control
mechanism of dye preparation for commercial purpose. The plant will also control the dye processing
cost as it is located in a place of abundant supply of natural dye sources. Intensive market research &
analysis in this area will further suggest wide spectrum of value added products in the areas of Textiles,
Handicrafts, Food, Cosmetics, and Herbal products, with proper packaging and labeling for both
domestic & export markets. Furthermore, R&D can be done to validate the possible use of natural dye
waste as bio fertilizer to encourage additional incomes.
Quality Control:
To reinvestigate and rebuild the traditional processes of natural dyeing to control pre (preparation,
mordanting) and post-dyeing process variables to develop standardized uncommon shades with
balanced colour fastness and eco-performing textiles as per international standards & norms.
Promotional Outlet for eco-heritage crafts
The concept of an elite Natural Dye Product retail outlet will help promote natural dyes as well as
Masstige products (craft souvenirs) in the global fashion conscious markets. The shop will also function
as a Knowledge Centre where relevant information about various stakeholders across the Value Chain
(such as raw material suppliers, service providers, industry, market players & consumers) will be made
available. A part of the product range could possibly be made available for online sale/ e-commerce to
appraise the market response.
17
18
The language or dialect spoken by the ordinary people of a country or region.
Tedious, menial, or unpleasant work.
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Dyeing house
The dyeing house (a part of the Heritage Craft Incubation Centre) is proposed to disseminate the dyeing
techniques especially designed for the needs of those into production of high-end natural dyed textile
products. The services of the Dyeing House could be available for eco-craft based micro-enterprises
(household production units), subject matter specialists, craft/ research institutions, design
entrepreneurs, etc.
Natural Dyed Stoles
Women Weaves
Textile Khadi Project
Reeling natural indigo yarn
Natural Dyed Stoles
4. Market Connects: Local to Global
To promote market linkages through network of national and international market players to ensure
additional employment & greater impact. Potential products (using GI19) will be identified and refined in
terms of consumer aspirations and attractive packaging solutions shall be made to suit niche global
markets. Studies would be planned to assess the economic feasibility and consumer acceptance of the
natural dyed products and market strategies. Awareness programmes to educate the consumers
regarding the merits of eco-friendly natural dyes will also be conducted with the aid of print (product
catalogues/brochures) and web-based electronic publicity material. As social and policy matters are
involved, line departments of state/central government and industry will be sensitized through
exhibitions, seminars/workshops and craft/fashion shows. Innovative approaches of market promotion
will be adopted to attain the goal of establishing and promoting the naturally dyed product value chain.
Sustainable linkages & trust has to be evolved between natural dye-plant cultivators, aggregators,
research institutions/testing laboratories, design institutions, suppliers, traders, industry players, and
destined markets to achieve transparent and ethical business through fair trade practices. It is of no use
to pine for a golden and romantic past, the commercial age is here and must be dealt in a way that can
benefit and promote sustainable livelihoods, socially responsible community, and environment. This
shall be achieved through synergizing with State & Central Govt. agencies, technical institutes, design &
academic institutions, NGOs, Industry, Peoples' movements, and practitioners (marginalized20
communities), in a future course for the revival & positioning of natural dyeing products, worldwide.
19
A geographical indication (GI) is a name or sign used on certain products which corresponds to a specific geographical location or origin (e.g. a town,
region, or country). The use of a GI may act as a certification that the product possesses certain qualities, is made according to traditional methods, or
enjoys a certain reputation, due to its geographical origin.
20
To relegate or confine to a lower or outer limit or edge, as of social standing.
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5. Branding and Promotion:
The aim is to establish and promote Eco-products conforming to international quality parameters and
market aspirations. Technology will be developed for identification of natural dye pigment specific to
textiles, handicrafts and surface coatings for accurate assessment & eco-certification of final products.
This will help establishment of brand, procedures and ethics to woo National and International markets.
Natural Dye Kit
Most of the natural dyes are obtained from fruits where the enzymes act at a particular time period and
the juices / dyes get rotten after certain hours. Therefore, experiments can be done to find for their
preservation & bottled version of dyes can be sold which can be used in our day to day lives.
A creative and exquisitely designed Natural Dye kit can be made for better promotion of the Natural
Dyes. The kit will contain different types of dyes in different shades, two nontoxic mordents’, one
exfoliating21 cloth, one 15 ml bottle essential oil, a dispenser bottle, 7 mm stainless steel tip, pattern
ideas, and complete instructions. The kit will be packaged in an elegant tin, which is perfect for gifting.
The pigments may be used in decorative arts, as well as in the restoration of paintings, frescos22,
miniatures, paper marbling and illumination art. The collection also includes detailed certificates about
the chemical and physical properties of each featured pigment and information on which natural source
it was derived from.
Literature / Catalogues
The literature of the natural dyes and dyestuff including the story line (socio-economic profile of
traditional artisans practicing nature friendly crafts) is essential part of brand promotion & marketing.
Likewise green packaging, branding & product promotion is equally important for any commercially
viable product to create global awareness, too.
Packaging/Product Range
As the project intends to enhance use of natural dyes, fashionable clothing products (which intend to be
produced in several soft & soothing colors) would be a part of the product range. Since the product is
aimed at sustainability, packaging and labeling should be around a few parameters such as:Color:- Beige, Green, Deep brown , earthy brown
Material :- Recycled Plastic, Cardboard, Newspaper, Corrugated sheets.
Recycled sign is a must.
A punch line also is an add-on. Like
Re- USE/CYCLE/DESIGN
21
22
To remove (a layer of bark or skin, for example) in flakes or scales; peel.
Fresco (plural frescos or frescoes) is a technique of mural painting executed upon freshly laid lime plaster. Water is used as the vehicle for the pigment
and, with the setting of the plaster; the painting becomes an integral part of the wall.
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Contrast use of colors, we could use these colors to exhibit colors of dyes or print blocks on the surface.
Shirts /T-shirts/scarf could be packed in such structures.
Hardboard packaging-could be used for accessories or small delicate products.
Geometric Packaging/ Reuse Concept- Could be used for shirts/trousers /shoes etc for restoring.
Graphic representation packaging- for product where explanation is needed and can be done graphically
Newspaper/Printed paper Packaging- Could be used for all products and is the most sustainable means
of packaging
12
Cylindrical /Hexagon Packaging- for stoles and towels
Minimal Packaging / Labeling:
Product Range:
As a result of the pilot intervention, the final product range will consists of a smart range of sustainable
Eco-Fashion products & Ethical luxury clothing (men/ women/ kids), thereby adhering to global
standards of global safety with energy efficient production processes. The key result areas will be
improving local economies and development of E+ (Eco-Ethnic-Elegant-Elite) product range having a
unique Human Touch, for the niche market23 worldwide.
23
A niche market is the subset of the market on which a specific product is focusing. The market niche defines the product features aimed at satisfying
specific market needs, as well as the price range, production quality and the demographics that is intended to impact. It is also a small market segment.
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Naturally Dyed Hi-Fashion Clothing using natural fibers (silk, georgette, chiffon) using button-masala technique
Naturally dyed and Hand-Block Printed Garments for Hi-Fashion markets
Handcrafted vegetable dyed Craft Accessories (Soft-toy, Bag, Hat) for global markets
14
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CONCLUSION AND SUGGESTIONS:
In India, arts and crafts are not necessarily practiced for commercial reasons alone; they also serve a social,
ritualistic or decorative purpose. Aesthetics24 in everyday life is common to all communities and can be found
across the mediums. Introduction of natural colours in the form of trendy market led products (textile garments
& craft souvenirs) and its strategic promotion will help the revival of the dyeing craft. Product diversification into
utilitarian items coupled with innovative design initiatives would be a prudent idea. With the advent of synthetic
dyes, it seemed that natural colours would lose their importance forever. However, the uniqueness of these
materials, properties, processes and the glorious colours produced, remained unmatched. The demand for ecofriendly dyes has seen a resurrection in their use on textiles and art.
The following will be key agents to create a sustainable value chain for the Natural Dyes and henceforth,
creating job opportunities for themselves:
- Cultivators/ aggregators of dye plants
- Producers of the materials to be dyed
- Dyers
- Craftsmen/ artists making craft products
- Designers
- Industrialists
- Marketers
The research paper will provide an opportunity for experimentation and innovation. It will bring together
different stakeholders across the globe, right from the producers (base of the pyramid) to the end-consumers
who have an interest in heritage crafts & green handcrafted products, are quality/eco/fashion conscious and
socially responsible. Thus, in order to address these challenges and to provide tangible25 & sustainable solution
to the indigenous heritage craft industry, there is a dire need to re-invent the sector and devise pragmatic26
strategy for the overall benefit of the stakeholders/communities at large.
ACKNOWLEDGMENT:
Foremost, I would like to express my sincere gratitude to NIFT (Hyderabad) to provide me this excellent
opportunity to present the Research Paper – “Dyeing to Sustain” and write on the topic - “Encouraging Eco
Conscious Lifestyle", aiming at the revival of Eco-Heritage Crafts of India. While preparing this research paper, I
have gone through primary & secondary data research through meetings with practitioners of natural dyed &
printed textiles (grassroot master craft artisans), textile industry players, art-historian, and reference of different
books & websites which helped me to have thorough understanding of the topic.
I extend deep appreciation to Ms Archana Surana- Director (Arch Academy of Design), Mr. Benoy ThoompunkalDirector, Academics who has always been sincere and helpful in making me understand the various aspects and
conceptualization of the subject. Without his/her guidance and persistent help, this dissertation would not have
been possible. I am very much thankful to Mr. Sanjay Joshi (Senior Faculty – Crafts) and Ms Sumita Choudhury
(Head of Curriculum, International Studies in Creative Arts & Design, Course Leader Fashion & Textiles) for their
kind contribution towards completion of this research paper.
24
Aesthetics is a branch of philosophy dealing with the nature of art, beauty, and taste, with the creation and appreciation of beauty. It is more
scientifically defined as the study of sensory or sensori-emotional values, sometimes called judgments of sentiment and taste. More broadly, scholars in
the field define aesthetics as "critical reflection on art, culture and nature."
25
Capable of being touched; discernible by the touch; material or substantial.
26
dealing with things sensibly and realistically in a way that is based on practical rather than theoretical considerations.
16
I believe that this paper will be of significance to those who are interested to know about this subject and will
find it comprehensible. I have tried hard to gather all the relevant information regarding this paper to the best
of my knowledge, so as to make the document meaningful.
With Thanks & Regards,
Richa Lakwal
REFERENCES:
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Samanta, A. K. and Agarwal, P. (2009): Application of Natural Dyes on Textiles. IJFTR 34, 384- 399
Thilagavathi, G., & Krishna Bala S. (2007). Microencapsulation of herbal extracts for microbial resistance in health
care textiles. Indian Journal of Fiber & Textile Research, 32. pp: 351-354
Siva R (2007), Status of natural dyes and dye-yielding plants in India, Curr Sci, 92(7), 916-925
Gulrajani, M.L., Introduction to Natural Dyes, Indian Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi, 1992
The Wealth of India- A Dictionary of Indian Raw Materials and Industrial Products, Council of Scientific Research
and Industrial Research, National Institute of Science Communication and Information Resources, New Delhi,
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Purple: important vat dyes from antiquity to the present" Endeavour, New Series, Vol 17,no 4, Pergamon Press,
Oxford, 1993
Council for Scientific & Industrial Research, The Wealth of India, CSIR, New Delhi, 1950
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Industrialist, Master Craft Artisan & Resource Person:
Mr. Vikram Joshi—Rangotri, Jaipur
Mr. Brij Ballabh Udaiwal—Shilpi, Jaipur
Mr. Santosh Dhanopia—Chogan Hand Prints, jaipur
Mr. Jatin Sharma—Satayam, City Palace, Jaipur
Ms. Chandramani Singh—Art Historian, Library, City Palace, City Palace.
17

Paper Id: “ST- 104" Dyeing to Sustain: “Encouraging Eco Conscious

Transcription

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