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A QUIET TOWN OF MUD AND GRAPES
Kaye Cloutman discovers an ideal retreat for families in Calistoga
I
f you’ve experienced the touristy commotion in Napa Valley,
you’ll agree that the commotion dwindles down as you drive
north towards Calistoga. But this sleepy town, with its awardwinning spas and mud baths, is certainly a fantastic respite for a more
leisurely and easygoing vacation. It’s an ideal place to unwind and
rejuvenate, especially after a day of navigating the busy roads on and
off Highway 29.
Calistoga has an abundance of things to do, from hot volcanic mud
baths to hot-air balloon rides over the vineyards. You can easily
navigate fine galleries, tasting rooms, specialty shops and restaurants
downtown on foot without fear of blowing your budget.
And it watches from a comfortable distance as everyone else in other
parts of the Valley prolifically pours wines and serves gourmet food to
visitors. If anything is served, it’s to visitors and locals who are mostly
either lounging by the pool or wrapped in mud and bliss.
A BIT OF HISTORY
Wappo Indians, the sole inhabitants of Napa Valley from 2000 BC
to 1823, were the first to discover the natural hot mineral springs
and geysers at the north end of the valley now known as Calistoga.
Recognizing the healing properties of the water, they built three sweat
lodges in the vicinity, calling the area “Ta La Ha Lu Si” meaning the
“Land of Health-Giving Springs” or “Oven-Place.”
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Photographed by Denice Sy and A.K. Sandhu
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CALIFORNIA
STOPOVER FOR A DRINK
Amidst the spa treatments, great art galleries and
numerous outdoor activities, you might be forgiven for
forgetting about the area’s good wines. But if you must
visit a few watering holes, we recommend heading for
the following:
STERLING VINEYARD
This iconic winery is perched high above the town of
Calistoga on a mid-valley hill. Its stark architectural
beauty and state-of-the-art winemaking facility, coupled
with panoramic views of Napa Valley from the rooftop
deck, have been attracting visitors for over 30 years.
You reach the vineyard via a solar-powered aerial
tramway. www.sterlingvineyards.com
VERMEIL WINES
It’s the height of wine bliss when Paul Smith,
winemaker and owner of OnTheEdge Winery, and Mary
Sue Frediani, tasting room manager and co-owner of
Frediani Family Vineyards, whip up their fascinating
stories of Dick Vermeil from his high school quarterback
days in Napa to his glory years as one of the most
celebrated NFL coaches in US History.
Vermeil is recognized for many of his achievements
in the past but partnering up with OnTheEdge Winery
to finally realize his love of viticulture and wines is the
great culmination of a whole lifetime of touching lives.
The laid-back charm of the tasting room will make
you feel as if you were visiting the home of long-time
friends. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch Paul jamming with
his band to wonderful renderings of the Beatles – a fine
accompaniment to superb glasses of their delicious
2006 Jean Louis Vermeil Cabernet Sauvignon.
www.vermeilwines.com
Spanish missionaries Don Francisco Castro and Father Jose Altimira
were the first Europeans to explore the region. They named the
region ‘Agua Caliente’. Rich in magnesium and calcium, the thermal
mineral waters were born when Mt. Konocti erupted millions of years
ago. The eruption deposited layer upon layer of volcanic ash into
the fissures in the earth which it created. The ash is used in today’s
mud bath treatments, which makes the resorts in Calistoga distinctly
different from all the neighboring towns.
RESORT WITH A VISION
“What I would give to stay in this place until I die, mom…” was
a phrase I heard from a young boy lounging by the pool as I was
wandering through the rows of perfectly lined rubber ducks beside the
walk area. The statement overwhelmed me as it clearly demonstrated
pure innocence – that this place might hold all the things required to
fulfill a child’s dreams.
Many of today’s resorts are designed as adult retreats, but Indian
Springs welcomes families. Owner Pat and John Merchant are the true
visionaries of the area. They’ve traveled the world numerous times
but Calistoga remains their real home. John, a passionate resident
who actively promotes Calistoga’s other businesses has envisaged
projects that advance the commerce in the region while restoring and
preserving its natural wonders.
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Pat backs it up by explaining that “one of our biggest challenges
was to avoid becoming slick. It has remained our goal to preserve
the historical integrity of the resort while cleaning it up and making
it shine. Our guests are the kind of people who enjoy history and
authenticity”.
Indian Springs Resort is a great dwelling place for the winter months.
One instantly feels the calming and therapeutic properties of the
minerals as you submerge in the water. When the cool breeze hits the
warm and misty feel on your face, you’ll know you’ve started your
journey to paradise.
I pampered myself further by visiting the spa which provides a variety
of choices in which to delight. Its mud bath facial, made from volcanic
ash, is something that effortlessly brought the glow and firmness back
to my skin; quite obviously this was one of those vanity treats which in
my case was long overdue. Massages in wine country are pretty hard
to beat; but when you have a Buddha garden and a dragonfly pond
strewn with palm and olive trees all around to lounge in and unwind
after, the experience is elevated to a whole different level.
OLD-FASHIONED ROMANCE
Mountain View Hotel & Spa, on the other hand, is a vintage hotel
that recently went through some revamping. It is a picture-perfect
honeymooner’s nesting pad and its central location allows lovebirds to
enjoy the spa and yet also to stroll and discover the endless possibilities
of nightlife, dining and wining around town. Wine and art is what
drives this place so an experience of either or both is never far away.
The produce from some of the best wineries in these parts can be
enjoyed in the comforts of one’s room or cottage as a bottle from the
spa’s own winery awaits guests who check in.
FAMILY DESTINATIONS
Old Faithful Geyser, on the other hand, is a pretty good substitute for
the one in Yosemite and I recommend it mostly to families. Parents
will have the opportunity to become an informative genius to their kids
by explaining the interesting science behind the geyser. This venue
does not really have much going on but the petting zoo will allow
your kids to roam around and burn off energy without you having to
worry about them knocking over bottles of wine and expensive décor
normally found in tasting rooms.
Meanwhile Castello Di Amorosa sits on a hillside, a 21st century
rendering of a beautiful 13th century medieval castle, looking like it
was transported through time unscathed. The product and passion
of owner Dario Sattui, this incredible piece of architecture was
handcrafted using many authentic tools and techniques from the 13th
century. It took almost 15 years to complete. Until you descend into
the lower reaches of this beautiful castle, you won’t appreciate the
many high-technology features that make this a state-of-the-art wine
production facility. The castle can stand on its own simply as a tourist
attraction; but Dario Sattui comes from a long line of established and
proud vintners and Castello di Amorosa sits on some of the finest soil
in all Napa Valley, so Calistoga now has a first-class winery that is a
sightseeing destination as well. n
An overall feeling of romance is fueled and can certainly be felt all
over as the chosen shades and tints for the furnishings evoke nothing
but passion. “My wife is actually responsible for all of this,” owner
Michael Woods attests. “I fell in love with Calistoga the minute I drove
up this part of the valley; so when I had the opportunity to acquire the
hotel, there was no turning back.”
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VISA REQUIREMENTS: Apply for a US Visa at the Embassy of
the United States in Manila at 1201 Roxas Boulevard, Ermita, Manila;
Tel. (6)(32) 528-6300 www.manila.usembassy.gov
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TRAVELER’S CHECKLIST
T
The Calistoga AVA (American
Viticultural Area) is at the north
end of the Napa Valley in
California’s wine country. There
are numerous wineries within
a short drive. Calistoga itself is
noted for its hot spring spas and
hot volcanic ash mud bath.
AN
CALISTOGA,
CALIFORNIA
NEED TO KNOW
GR
NAVIGATE
YOURSELF
TU
FRANK FAMILY
VINEYARDS
EXCHANGE RATE: US$1 = PHP43
TIME DIFFERENCE: The California time zone lies 15
hours behind in summer time and 16 hours behind in winter
time.
PHILIPPINE CONSULATE IN CALIFORNIA: 447 Sutter Street,
San Francisco, California, USA. Tel. (1) (415) 433-6666
HOW TO GET THERE
Philippine Airlines offers direct flights from Manila to San
Francisco, California. Calistoga is centrally located between Napa and
Sonoma counties.
WHAT TO DO
Photo by William Craig
NOTHING BUT HOT AIR
Float over the magnificent north end of Napa Valley in a hot-air
balloon and let the breeze usher you along scenic grapevine corridors
and some of the most majestic mountain vistas in the world. Calistoga
Hot Air Balloons has a trusted reputation and years of experience
providing guests a safe and unforgettable journey almost into the
heavens. Fly over Castello di Amorosa, Palisade Cliffs, Mt. St. Helena,
Château Montelena, Old Faithful Geyser, and Petrified Forest.
www.calistogaballoons.com
WALK THROUGH ASHES
A volcano erupted over three million years ago, spreading ash in the
direction of Mt. St. Helena and several miles to the Northeast. You
can still see this same pale yellow sandy ash when you visit the Petrified
Forest. Follow the trail of the majestic petrified redwood giants via
a fascinating 1/2-mile guided walking tour of the Petrified Forest’s
spectacular upper meadow with naturalist David Storck who will point
out all the local wildlife.
www.petrifiedforest.org
ENJOY ART
The Ca’Toga Galleria D’Arte features the works of world-renowned
artist Carlo Marchiori from “my very own madness” he said. On
display and sale are hand-painted murals, greeting cards and sculptures
which feature his wistful fascination with all things mythic and mystic.
A guided tour will also take you to a beautiful meandering creek where
you’ll find a peacock which responds to Carlo’s whistles.
www.catoga.com
FEBRUARY-MARCH 2012
WHERE TO EAT
JOLE FARM TO TABLE
JoLé Farm to Table is the culinary marriage of two people who wanted
“sustainable food prepared lovingly with farm fresh ingredients in wine
country.” Husband and wife tandem Matt (executive chef) and Sonjia
Spector (pastry chef) fell in love with Calistoga upon first encounter.
“This is a great place to raise the kids and they also are pretty much
part of the life of the restaurant” Matt said.
Order the sea scallops, the smoked veal sweetbreads and the mouthwatering Atlantic Sole which can be very nicely paired with a 2009
Robert Foley Semillon. Then end your evening with a coconut cream
pie and brownie semifreddo. www.jolerestaurant.com
SOLBAR
This is probably the town’s benchmark for luxurious dining. Executive
Chef Brandon Sharp sends diners to a culinary state of amazement
-- his prowess and ability is almost as ethereal as the French Laundry’s
Thomas Keller’s, except it’s just much easier to get a reservation here.
Order the salad of red, gold and candy-striped baby beets with cara
cara oranges and the soft-boiled egg in rôsti potato with Monterey
porcini and tarragon. The miso poached Petrale sole with black garlic
ramen and the Painted Hills Ranch smoked beef shortribs with carola
potato risotto are also highly recommended.
www.solagecalistoga.com
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Skillet Steamed mussels at Hat Iron Grill
HOTEL
DIRECTORY
LUXURY
CALISTOGA
RANCH
Calistoga Ranch is
Calistoga’s most
exclusive resort
with the feel of a vintner’s sprawling estate. The ranch
comprises 157 acres with guest lodges, fine dining venues
and a luxury spa. www.calistogaranch.com
FLATIRON GRILL
Situated in the heart of downtown Calistoga, Flatiron Grill is a dining
destination for Calistogans and day-trippers alike who love the steaks
and tender buttermilk fried chicken. www.theflatirongrill.com
BAROLO
Witty sophistication meets rustic hip with Barolo’s unique mix of
simple food coupled with an unpretentious and approachable local
wine list. The pizzas and appetizers are the things to order here.
www.barolocalistoga.com
BOSKOS TRATTORIA
Italian food is only good if it is made fresh. Boskos Trattoria’s fresh
homemade pasta is made daily in the kitchen, along with their thin
crust, yeasty wood oven-baked pizza. Must-haves are the crispy polenta
stack with rich tomato sauce, olives and ricotta salad and the Beppe’s
Glazed Angus Meat Loaf. www.boskos.com
SOLAGE CALISTOGA RESORT
Solage offers stylish yet welcoming accommodations and
creative dining destinations with a fresh attitude. Taking
an energetic approach to wellness, this pristine resort
puts a creative spin on traditional spa concepts and offers
extensive fitness programs.
www.solagecalistoga.com
FAMILY
INDIAN SPRINGS RESORT
www.indianspringscalistoga.com
MOUNTAIN VIEW HOTEL & SPA
www.mountainviewhotel.com