Read - Relais La Suvera

THE LEISURE travel
If you’ve ever dreamt
of a fairytale escape
why not start the
year off as you mean
to go on and book
a magical castle
getaway.
Ashford, a study in classic breeding
Noble presidential suite at Ashford
F
or those who yearn for something
that brings luxury and style
together with adventure and
exoticism there is more than lying on
a distant beach or indulging in resort
comforts. If you’ve experienced cruises,
river excursions and have had your share
of big city excitement, then why not take
a step back in time and do as the kings
of old did – enjoying opulence and luxury
within the atmospheric setting of a grand
European castle.
Pick the right one and you needn’t put
up with draughty corridors and creaky
stairs, revelling instead in the style of an
aristocrat as you survey the sprawling
estate from your bedroom suite. You can’t
but feel quite the lord of the manor as
you explore the hidden delights of ‘your’
castle or roam its manicured grounds,
all the while pampered and indulged
like a true nobleman or woman. As the
following pages show, not all castles are
battle-worn ruins eroded by the winds
of time; you will find the pick of the crop
to be every bit as luxurious as a palace
yet full of the power and martial flair of a
classic castle stronghold.
The selection below is a sample of
some of Europe’s finest castles now
functioning not to deter visitors but to
welcome them with open arms. For an
exclusive experience with a difference,
we visit six of the best in Ireland, France,
Austria, Germany, Italy and Portugal.
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Castles
The aristocratic style of Ashford Castle
in the air
WORDS Michel cruz
Ashford Castle, Ireland
These days you needn’t own a castle or a title, nor indeed
wait for an invitation from such a person to stay at one of
Europe’s castles. Often the seat of an ancestral line dating
back to the Middle Ages, the castle is the forerunner of
the château or manor house – second only in status and
splendour to royal palaces and in many cases one-time
royal residences in their own right.
In the rugged northwest of Ireland, Ashford Castle is
a fine example of a palatial castle set amid an expansive
estate whose greenery rolls on as far as the eye can see.
Founded in 1228 by the Anglo-Norman De Burgo family, the
castle would remain their stronghold for over three-and-ahalf centuries. From then on the estate would grow and be
updated until it was converted into a luxury hotel in 1939.
In the 1950s, it was home to Hollywood stars shooting a
movie nearby, in 1970, a golf course was added and by the
1980s it was recognised as one of the finest resort hotels
in Ireland – and Europe.
To enter this grand property is to feel like a privileged
visitor to a landed estate, capable of transporting one
into a Downton Abbey scene in the present. For this
reason you almost feel that you should arrive in style,
traversing its imposing long driveway in something suitably
luxurious and classical. An Aston Martin or Range Rover
would do nicely as you pull up before the castle and its
sprawling wings, attended to by butlers and footmen… I
mean helpful hotel staff. Inside, Ashford Castle is a study
in classic ambience and breeding, complete with grand
chandeliers, wood-panelling, plush carpets, fine antiques,
mantelpieces and reception rooms. The dining rooms, used
for banqueting, fine dining and also business conferences,
are similarly impressive and, combined with a broad choice
of sumptuous rooms and suites with deluxe four-poster
beds fit for a royal couple, they explain the popularity of
this venue with professionals, wedding parties and those
who simply enjoy the better things in life.
During your stay you can wallow in luxuriant opulence,
be pampered with high tea, a variety of first-class
restaurants and relax while taking in the views, but Ashford
Castle also caters to more active guests. For them there
is golf, falconry, lake cruising, fly fishing, horse riding,
clay pigeon shooting and a host of other somewhat less
aristocratic pursuits such as kayaking and water skiing. You
might even want a chauffeur to take you on a private tour
of this ruggedly beautiful region of Ireland – Champagne
and hors d’oeuvres included in your packed picnic basket
of course!
i www.ashfordcastle.com
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Château de Bagnols, France
A château, but unlike the later aristocratic homes
that sprung up across France, Château de Bagnols
is a true fortress estate that has been guarding
this verdant, undulating part of Burgundy for over
eight centuries. Immersed within its winegrowing
surroundings, the property is an ever-present mix
of rural earthiness and military severity on the
one hand, with luxurious interiors, formal gardens
and elegant pathways on the other.
Not surprisingly, this is a national historical
monument, and visitors to the luxury château
hotel will be suitably impressed as they traverse
the long driveway to the entrance. Here they
Château de Bagnols, modern interiors in a classic setting
will encounter a veritable marriage of history,
tradition and luxury. You know you are staying in
a château as you explore the fragrant gardens
or the interior of a true palatial stronghold.
The suites likewise are large, impressive and
rich in authentic presence. Step through an
atmospherically lit courtyard and you enter the
kind of fine dining experience that befits not
just a property of this kind but also the region
of Burgundy, which is regarded as the culinary
epicentre of France.
In the Salles des Gardes you will be treated
to rare gastronomic pleasure in what is the
breadbasket of France, while the languid
pampering of health and beauty treatments
awaits guests in the wellness centre. Stroll into
the gardens or relax by the pool and a world of
views opens up before you that spreads like a
green carpet all the way to the rolling hills on
the horizon. Burgundy becomes your proverbial
oyster as you choose between a private tour of
the region and its wineries, a hot air balloon ride,
golf, nature hikes, helicopter rides or a picnic in
glorious countryside.
i www.chateaudebagnols.com
Château de Bagnols – the culinary epicentre of France
A winter wonderland, Schloss Fuschl, Austria
Schloss Fuschl, Austria
Palatial elegance of the Sissi Suite
Pampering in style at Schloss Fuschl
Fine dining in magical surroundings
Located on the Fuschlsee near Salzburg, this castle
turned luxury spa resort has all the alpine enchantment
you could ever wish for. Wonderful in summer, when you
can hike, relax and explore the surrounding towns at your
leisure, it is a veritable fairytale in winter – adding to an
already magical castle setting surrounded by the scenic
glory of the Alps.
Once again you will wish you had brought the Roller
or the classic Mercedes as you approach towards the
impressive entrance, where you are met with Germanic
efficiency softened with alpine hospitality. The castleresort is set upon one of those pretty valley lakes, but
all around you see the wooded peaks of mountains – a
scene that turns into a snowy wonderland in winter.
A mouth-watering choice of luxury rooms and suites
awaits the guest, each more elegant and luxurious than
the other, while the tea rooms, dining rooms and lounge
areas are just as skilfully balanced between classical and
contemporary style. It creates a setting and ambience
that is aristocratic yet adapted to modern tastes, a
factor further enhanced by a state-of-the-art spa and
haute cuisine dining that lives up to the latest standards.
There is a choice of lovely settings for the latter, ranging
from opulent formal rooms to terraces overlooking the
lake and mountains.
As if to further bolster the dignified feeling, Schloss
Fuschl also offers concierge services that will make you
feel like you’ve got your own butler and chauffeur. The
latter will take you on limousine tours of the region while
the former will see to it that everything from handwashed laundry and midnight snacks to a round of golf
or a horse-drawn sleigh carriage is on tap. Welcome to an
Austrian fairytale.
i www.schlossfuschlsalzburg.com
Château de Bagnols, a national historic monument
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Pousada de Obidos, Portugal
When it comes to castle hotels it doesn’t get much
more authentic than the Pousada de Obidos. Set within
a charming little whitewashed village an hour or so
north of Lisbon, this ancient castle not only has seen
a lot of true martial action but also finds itself within a
car-free village that is rated among the prettiest of its
kind in Europe. Leaving your car outside the solid town
walls, you follow the cobblestone streets that dissect
this lovely little maze of houses until you come to the
towering giant that is the Obidos Castle.
Its stone ramparts softened by white plaster and
green shutters, this fortress still has a commanding
outlook over the surrounding farmland, rolling hills and
the Atlantic shores that lie just a short distance away.
Inside, it harbours classic elegance fused with tasteful
contemporary details and that typically Portuguese
touch – the azuleijo tiles that give the imposing
entrance, the pretty suites and the ambient dining
room a distinct feel. The restaurant proudly offers
dining fit for a king where you can enjoy contemporary
interpretations of Portuguese cuisine, the pick of the
well-stocked wine cellar and wonderful views over this
picture perfect village and its green surroundings.
With activities as varied as sailing, golf, horse riding,
fishing, surfing and lying on long sandy beaches – not to
mention exploring the hidden tavernas and quaint port
wine bars of Obidos, this is a very pleasant spot to be
‘besieged’ in.
Dine surveying the Rhine at Castle Schönburg
Castle Hotel Auf
Schönburg, Germany
Decidedly German in its architecture and ambience,
Castle Hotel Auf Schönburg stands atop a hill
surveying the famous Rhine roughly midway
between Frankfurt and Koblenz. Its surroundings
are picture-perfect, as the river carves its way
through terraced vineyards that look down on a
watercourse rich in myths and legends. With its
imposing setting and architecture, the castle feels
like it has seen its fair share of them, and yes, it is
hard to resist a touch of Brothers Grimm romance
slipping in as you walk into the courtyard or take
breakfast amid sweet half-timbered buildings.
You will be gratified to find an authentic knight’s
room, now cosy and laid out for dinner. That is, if
you can be torn away from the panoramic terrace
overlooking the Rhine and its hilly surroundings.
Lovely four-poster beds and classical bathrooms
add to the allure of the comfy suites, where you
feel rather like an erstwhile Baron or Junker. To
enjoy a meal or wine tasting ensconced within its
medieval walls is a true experience, and just the
prelude to a day’s rambling through the nearby
village of Oberwesel or the enchanting countryside
of the Middle Rhine.
i www.hotel-schoenburg.com
i www.pousadas.pt
Obidos Castle: the real thing
The medieval walls of Castle Schönburg, Germany
Serenity and style at Relais La Suvera, Tuscany
Hotel Relais La Suvera, Italy
The Duca di Genova suite, La Suvera
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Thought to derive from the word ‘souverain’, La Suvera
is a gorgeous little castle-palace once inhabited by a
relative of Clovis, King of the Franks. It has belonged
to Dukes, Countesses, Popes and bankers, and over
the centuries has undergone a transition from a real
fortress castle into a more luxurious Renaissance
estate. Interestingly, the current owner – a marquis –
traces his roots to the original founders of La Suvera
almost nine centuries ago.
A setting not only of opulence and tradition,
but also of culture and gastronomy, La Suvera has
its own little museum dedicated to the provenance
of the castle and the history of its surroundings.
Within these you will find the Tuscan gem of Siena,
though even its architectural beauty is no match for
the graceful lines, tasteful interiors and manicured
gardens of La Suvera. To sleep in its rooms is to be
transported to a Shakespearean setting, to dine in
its restaurants is to delve into the very epitome of
Italian cuisine and to stroll through its grounds or
relax by the pool is to indulge in glorious Italian ‘dolce
far niente’.
You might also take the waters in the medieval
Balneum spa, enjoy a sea salt massage-scrub or
simply rent a classic car and head out into the lofty
Tuscan hills, stopping only to sample the famous food
and wine of the region or visit hilltop villages. In many
ways La Suvera represents the best of rural Tuscany.
i www.lasuvera.it
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