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C O M M U N I C A T I O N S
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Orloff Jewelers partners
with Children’s Hospital
Redesign Your Treasures
Red Carpet Ready
David Yurman’s World of Beauty
The Incomparable Lauren Bacall
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AUTUMN/HOLIDAY 2014 • ISSUE 1
BEING A KID
IS AN IMPORTANT JOB.
Right now, painting pictures is something he does for fun.
Tomorrow, it might just be a hobby.
But someday, it will be the thing he’s known for.
And Children’s Hospital Central California wants him to get there.
That’s why we have the best doctors and nurses trained to work
specifically with kids, using the best equipment designed just for kids.
He may never need to go to the hospital. But if he does…
Children’s stands ready to return him to the business of being a kid.
9300 Valley Children’s Place
Madera, CA 93636-8762
559.353.3000
ChildrensCentralCal.org
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Warmest personal greetings from all of us at Orloff Jewelers. Each year we look forward to the opportunity to share with you our
vision and passion that is translated into our exquisite jewelry. Please enjoy our debut issue of Orloff Jewelers Magazine.
Year after year, we endeavor to stay ahead of the latest jewelry and watch industry trends and innovations, while staying true to our
standards and objectives: to give the utmost attention to customer service, to provide knowledgeable sales assistance and guidance in a
pleasant manner, to offer great value and unsurpassed quality with every purchase. We pride ourselves in our commitment to our customers and each other. We are dedicated to creating an experience that allows those who visit our store to enter as customers, but leave
as members of the Orloff family.
Couture jewelry retailers make up only one half of one percent of all jewelers in the country. We are proud to be recognized as one
of those jewelers. As a couture jeweler, we are invited to work with an exceptionally talented group of internationally renowned designers and luxury brands. We strive to provide our customers with the world’s most unique styles and designs, made with the highest level
of craftsmanship. The result is jewelry that is not only fashionable and chic, but also destined to become the classics and heirlooms of
tomorrow. At Orloff Jewelers, you don’t have to settle for the ordinary because you can attain the extraordinary.
The Orloff family and staff welcome the opportunity to help you select the perfect gift to honor those who give special meaning to
your life. We treasure the experience of being part of your celebrations, from generation to generation.
Each year we find ourselves challenged to stay ahead of the latest trends, not only in jewelry and watches, but in technology as well.
Technology has changed our daily lives, allowing for greater convenience and up-to-the-minute communication. Along those lines, take
time to visit our website at orloffjewelers.com
Finally, beyond our dedication to customer service, quality and integrity, Orloff Jewelers is committed to serving and generously giving
back to the community. We are proud to be charitable partners with many local and national non-profit agencies and service organizations,
and want to take this time to thank you for helping make contributions possible, and for including us in so many of your events.
In closing, may this coming year be one of good health, joyous occasions and prosperity. Many of you have been loyal customers and
friends for a long time. In fact, next year will mark our 60th year serving the Fresno community! We are grateful for your continuing
friendship and patronage. As always, we appreciate the experience of sharing your personal celebrations. We look forward to seeing you
again real soon!
With gratitude,
James and Mary Ann Orloff
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p48
3Welcome
6Orloff Jewelers — The Royal Treatment
10 How to Choose a Jeweler
12 David Yurman’s World of Beauty
13 Mercedes-Benz of Fresno
14 All for a Good Cause
16 TAG Heuer Times the Races
18 The New Audi A8
22 Pearl Trends
23 How to Serve Your Pinot Noir
24 Kwiat — 100 Years of Diamonds
26 50 is the New 30
30 Gorgeous Gold
32 Jewelry Trend Report
36 Gabriel & Co.’s Fashion Focus
38 Culinary Delight: Sausalito Dining
40 Man About Town
42 The Incomparable Lauren Bacall
44 Guardians of the Estate
46 Monelle Designs —Unmatched
48 Sparkling Sophistication
50 Your Orloff Wedding Planner
58 Ball — The Watch That Rocks
60 Womenswear —The Trend
64 The Power of Color
66 The Ultimate Jewelry Professional
Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief/Publisher/Creative Director
Carol Besler • Assistant Editorial Director
Kyle Boyer • Art Director
Stephen Lewis • Assistant Copy Editor
Vence Vida • Production Manager/Designer
Ron Saltiel/RSP Media • Select Jewelry Photography
*Prices subject to change. Please contact the store for current pricing and availability.
Orloff Jewelers Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 1201 E. 5th Street, Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012
T: 765-608-3081 • E: [email protected] • © 2014, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.
THE KWI AT D I A M O N D TA G C O L L E C TI O N
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Orloff Jewelers
The Prince of Jewelers gives clients the royal treatment
Orloff Jewelers was founded in Fresno, California, in 1955 by Paul
“Prince” Orloff, a renowned businessman known for his personal
touch and refined taste. His nickname originated from a conversation
with a client, a professor of Russian Studies at Fresno State University who told him about the Russian Orloff family, including Prince
Nikolay Alexeyevich Orlov, and their connection to the Tsars of
Russia. The nickname stuck, and Paul renamed the business “Prince
Orloff Crown Jewels.” When he retired in 1988, his son James and
daughter-in-law Mary Ann changed the name of the business to
James Orloff the Jeweler, and in 1994, it became Orloff Jewelers.
Mary Ann and James retained Prince Paul’s personal touch and keen
eye, building their business from humble beginnings. “We started in
a 175-sq.-ft. office with two desks and a safe,” says James. “We later
moved into 600 square feet, with two desks, a safe, a steamer and an
extra room.” The business has grown exponentially since then, and
is now located in a 5,400-sq.-ft. store in Fig Garden Village.
Orloff Jewelers carries more than 20 prestigious lines of jewelry,
including Kwiat, Charles Garnier, Crown Collection, Imperial Pearl,
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Gurhan and Michael M. In addition, Orloff Jewelers has an extensive
custom jewelry design department. Fine timepiece brands include
TAG Heuer, Ball Watch and David Yurman — Orloff Jewelers is
the exclusive provider of David Yurman watches and jewelry in the
Central Valley.
“I am also very proud of our Crown 500 Collection,” says Mary
Ann Orloff. “It is our most accessible line, and represents luxury for
everyone.” The Crown 500 Collection is a selection of fine sterling
silver jewelry by various manufacturers that is priced under $500.
It is all hand picked by Orloff’s staff to represent quality, popular,
trendy affordable gifts, and self purchases. Orloff Jewelers is the
exclusive provider of Endless Jewelry.
The store is also known for its custom jewelry, with James as
the key designer. “I am also the chief cook and bottle washer,” adds
James, who had worked at his father’s side since he was a young boy,
going in to the store after school and on weekends. “I started out
sweeping floors, cleaning windows and polishing jewelry,” he says
proudly. “When you grow up in the industry, as I did, it becomes a
“Every piece has to meet a level of quality, even the most basic jewelry.”
part of your life. It has to be in your veins like blood, otherwise it’s
no fun.” When he was 15, James passed his first diamond grading
class at the Gemological Institute of America. He obtained his Graduate Gemology diploma in residence from GIA in 1979, and became
a certified gemologist by the American Gem Society (AGS) in 2001.
He is a past president of the California Jewelers Association, a senior appraiser with the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers, a
member of the Jewelers of America, and a member of the American
Gem Society. His expertise as an appraiser and custom jewelery designer is recognized across the country.
“The signature element of everything we offer is quality,” says
James. “We make sure every item is made with workmanship of the
highest quality and that the quality is consistent. We ask that our
clients bring their jewelry in twice a year for a complimentary check
and cleaning to keep their guarantee up.”
That guarantee of quality extends to the staffing policy. “We are
constantly striving to be more professional,” says James. “All of our
staff hold titles from GIA or AGS. Barbara Barletta is GIA certified
in diamonds, colored gemstones, pearls, and synthetics, and is a professional sales associate from both GIA and AGS. She is also an AGS
sales associate, a TAG Heuer certified sales associate, and has 32 years
in the jewelry business. Chaleena Perez has completed the GIA jewelry essentials, diamond essentials and color certifications, and is a
GIA professional sales associate and an AGS sales associate, with TAG
Heuer certification and 12 years in the jewelry business. Cliff Shannon
is an AGS certified sales associate, and is GIA certified in the areas of
diamonds and color. He has 38 years in the jewelry business. Melodie
McColm has completed GIA diamond essentials certification, and has
three years of experience in the jewelry business. Veronica Wall is a
professional sales associate and diamonds essential GIA with three
years in the jewelry business.
“Our customer deserves the best, not just in jewelry, diamonds,
essentials, and gifts, but also in staff,” says James. “We are very meticulous in what we do and how we do it. We inspect every piece
under magnification, whether we’re buying it for our showcases or
taking a piece in from a client for repair.” It’s this attention to detail
that has earned Orloff Jewelers membership in the American Gem
Society, placing them in the top 5% of jewelry stores in the nation.
“Every piece has to meet a level of quality, even the most basic
jewelry.” Has he ever sent pieces back to the supplier? Of course.
“And they get it,” says James. “It only takes one or two times before
their quality control changes. He is quick to add: “We have a good
relationship with our suppliers, and that results in high quality standards for the jewelry they supply to us, and it also means we can
source special pieces that are very exclusive. Our vendors play an important role in our business.” The Orloffs are, in turn, loyal to their
suppliers. “I am now dealing in some cases with the grandchildren of
the owners of vendors I have dealt with for years,” says James. “I can
remember them when they were six years old. And they still have
the same ethics and values.”
The Orloffs, in turn, serve the children and grandchildren of the
loyal clients they have worked with over the years. “Trust and integrity are paramount in this industry,” says James. “It’s a very special
feeling when I’m helping a second- or even third-generation customer. When that happens, you know you’re doing something right.”
“What inspires me most of all about the jewelry business is the
loving and happy relationships that stem from it,” he says. “With
every piece of jewelry, there is a story behind it that leads to love.
The jewelry industry is not just about jewelry; it ranges from the
artistry of the jewelry to the humanity of the relationships.”
That sentiment also applies to the partnership between James
and his wife, Mary Ann. “She is the champion of our company,”
says James. “Not only is she a full partner, handling all the business
of the store, while raising our kids, she is very involved in several
charities. She sits on three or four boards, and puts a lot of energy
into our community.” Orloff Jewelers is committed to supporting
several charities in the Central Valley. To name a few: St. Agnes
Medical Center Foundation, Children’s Hospital Central California,
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CASA (Court Appointed Special Advocates), Camp Taylor, All About
Care, Valley Animal Shelter and many more. Mary Ann Orloff’s particular passions are children and animals. “We take every opportunity we can
to donate our time, funds or jewelry for auctions that support charities,
particularly for children or animals,” says Mary Ann.
The Orloff’s dedication to their community is mirrored in the store’s
high level of service for customers, and in some cases that dedication
goes above and beyond the call of duty. James and Mary Ann recall one
adventure that stemmed from a text message they received from a client
while they were on a buying trip in New York City. “The client, who was
in St. Lucia, had decided to get married, and wanted us to help him price
a couple of diamonds,” recalls James. “He told us what he was looking
at and gave us the prices he was quoted. Sensing something was fishy
about the quote, Mary Ann said: ‘you’d better call him.’ I agreed, and I
told him not to do anything until I investigated. I hit the diamond district
the next morning, a Thursday, and found a couple of gems that were less
expensive and had better quality certificates than the ones he described,”
says James. The client asked, “Can I see them tomorrow?”
“The only way that was going to happen was if Mary Ann and I personally delivered the diamonds to the Caribbean,” says James. On Friday,
the Orloffs had their passports delivered to them from California, and
by Saturday, they were on a plane to St. Lucia. By 3 p.m. that day, they
presented the diamonds to the client at the resort where he was staying —
“We had them mounted, just in case,” says James. The client chose one,
and asked James to be his best man. At sunset that same day, the vows
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were exchanged, and the ring fit perfectly. “We had a great four days in
St. Lucia,” recalls James.
This kind of dedication to service perhaps warrants a resurrection of the
“Prince Orloff” nickname, with the added “Mary Ann the Great.”
industry info
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You have probably heard the
adage: “If you don’t know
jewelry, know your jeweler.”
How to choose a jeweler
Y
There is more to buying jewelry than clicking on a picture.
10
You have probably heard the adage: “If you don’t know jewelry, know
tional recognition in the jewelry and watch industries for their extensive
your jeweler.” The truth is, it’s a good idea, even if you do know jewelry.
selection, sterling reputation, exceptional service, integrity, philanthropy,
A reputable, knowledgeable jeweler makes the jewelry shopping process
and successful growth. Through the years, the Orloffs have also been
easier, more enjoyable, and more successful. When you buy a piece of
privileged to become the jeweler of choice for clientele throughout the
jewelry, you are investing in a work of art, a keepsake that you will be
United States and around the world.
able to treasure forever as a memory of a milestone in your life — or
Selection is another important criteria that defines a great jewelry
even just a celebration of life itself — and you want to make the right
store. The Orloffs have worked hard to curate a selection that represents
decision. There are many factors to consider beyond simply choosing a
world-renowned brands, as well as unique, one-of-a-kind items, and
style that appeals to you, including metal options, gemstone selection and
some of the rarest diamonds and gemstones from around the globe. Aside
properties, colors, and even which brand is right for you. If you’re buying
from top brands that include David Yurman, Kwiat, GURHAN, and Ball
a watch, there is also function to consider. Once you have made your
Watch, Orloff represents many leading bridal jewelry designers, including
purchase, you want to be confident that it can be professionally serviced,
Michael M. and Kwiat, as well as in-house experts and master jewelers
repaired, or cleaned. Above all, you want transparency and honesty in
who can design and handcraft the ring or jewelry, of your dreams. “We
your transaction — someone who will advise and guide you rather than
are not looking to simply sell jewelry in our store and online,” says James
just sell you what they want you to hear.
Orloff “but to give our customers the highest level of professional guid-
Orloff Jewelers has become the jeweler to get-to-know in Fresno. “We
ance and education necessary to make the best decisions when it comes to
like to form relationships with our clientele,” says Mary Ann Orloff. “We
such important purchases.” Orloff Jewelers is also an authorized dealer for
go through a lot of life-cycle events in our customers’ lives.” Their expe-
many of the worlds most prestigious and respected Swiss watch brands,
rience adds up to many years of expertise, hands-on jewelry making skills
including Ball Watch USA, David Yurman, and TAG Heuer watches, also
and extensive knowledge of gemology and design.
including vintage watches by Rolex, Omega, Breitling, Vacheron Con-
Orloff Jewelers has created a unique combination. While being a local
stantin, and Gerard Perregeaux.
Fresno jewelry store, Orloff Jewelers receives national, as well as interna-
Service is another important criteria in choosing a jeweler. Orloff
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provides custom design and various repair services, including sizing,
and stress-free. If you want an engagement ring or jewelry that is designed
cleaning, remounting, re-polishing, as well as authorized watch repair and
just for you, Orloff Jewelers will guide you from vision to fruition with
maintenance. The Orloffs have met all of the designers and manufactur-
your own unique custom designed jewelry pieces.
ers they represent, in many cases visiting their premises abroad, so they
The Orloff family and staff look forward to meeting you, and helping
are well-versed in the latest developments and technological advance-
you to “know your jeweler” even better!
ments in the fine watch and jewelry industries, as well as the latest design
and manufacturing trends. Their advice carries a great deal of substance.
The Orloff family and staff go to great lengths to create a comfortable,
warm and inviting atmosphere. “We do not believe in putting pressure
on someone, especially when a significant purchase is being considered,”
says Mary Ann Orloff. “We maintain a non-pressure selling environment
where customers can take their time and make their own decisions without a pushy salesperson hounding them. A customer’s confidence in their
purchase results in a higher level of customer satisfaction.”
Finally, it is important to choose a jeweler with roots in the community, someone that extends its family values to neighbors, friends and
complete strangers. Orloff Jewelers’ foundation in the Fresno community
is solid. Among the many organizations supported by the family are the
Children’s Hospital Central California, EPU Children’s Center, Camp
Taylor, All About Care, Assistance League, St. Agnes Hospital, Valley
Animal Shelter, and local high schools.
A good jeweler makes every effort to make your purchase enjoyable
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designer spotlight
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World of Beauty
David Yurman’s
David Yurman’s background as a sculptor and his appreciation for the enduring motifs in everyday life are evident in his
collections for this fall.
An avid equestrian, Yurman has long been inspired by the
classic devices of the equestrian world – stirrups, bits, halters
and other equipment used in tack. The Cable Buckle collection
is an evolution of the designer’s original Thoroughbred collection. The buckle, which takes its cue from that found on a
horse’s bit, is paired with a curb link chain in some pieces, and
with the designer’s iconic cable motif in others. The designs
are rendered in sterling silver with 14k yellow gold highlights.
Some are set with diamonds.
The new pieces from this season’s Confetti collection are a
reinterpretation of David Yurman’s original design. The stacked
rows of metal set with cushion-shaped gemstones capture the
effect of light and color dancing on a grid. In fact, the original
working title of the collection was “spots and dots,” a reference
to reflected points of light. The new pieces are a refinement
of this concept, evoking a relaxed geometry with an organic,
delicate balance. Colored gemstones and diamonds are set in a
petite mosaic, adorning cabled metal in a playful dance.
Since its founding in New York in 1980, David Yurman has
become known as America’s leading fine jewelry and timepiece
brand. It features a range of signature gold and silver designs, as
well as diamond, pearl, and gemstone jewelry.
The designer’s fall collections are
inspired by motifs ranging from the
equestrian world to confetti
Confetti Wide ring with blue topaz and
Hampton blue topaz in sterling silver.
Confetti Narrow bracelet with
white diamonds in sterling silver.
Confetti Wide bracelet with blue topaz and
Hampton blue topaz in sterling silver.
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Cable Buckle bracelet with white
diamonds in sterling silver.
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children’s hostpital
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All for a Good Cause
How two “gems” of the Valley work
together to improve the lives of children
Throughout that time, patient care has remained a top priority. It was
the first children’s hospital west of the Rockies to receive the Magnet
Nursing designation, the highest nursing benchmark in the world, and
About 20 years ago, Mary Ann Orloff had occasion to visit Children’s Hospital Central California in support of a dear friend whose
daughter was very ill with a severe heart defect. “I was so impressed
by the way the staff and doctors took care of that child,” says Mary
Ann. “They were so supportive and wonderful to the whole family,
and even though she is not treated there anymore, they still follow her
progress and care. They have gone above and beyond the call of duty
to help this child survive and live with her illness.”
The level of care witnessed by Mary Ann is not surprising, considering that the hospital was founded by five mothers in 1952, who saw
the need for a dedicated pediatric hospital in Central California. Who
better than a group of mothers to lay the foundation for a hospital
that helps children cope with illness and live better lives? More than
60 years later, Children’s Hospital has grown to a 356-bed, nationally respected regional pediatric medical center on a 50-acre campus.
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it is one of fewer than 10 pediatric intensive care units in the country
to have received the Beacon Award for Critical Care Excellence.
A Life of Giving
The Orloff family, of Orloff Jewelers, is among those who recog-
“Jamie has a great sense of humor and he’s wonderful,” says Peggy
nize the hospital’s essential value to the community — “it’s the ‘gem’
Dunlap, a manager with the hospital’s Foundation. “He knows every-
of the Valley,” says James Orloff — and like many others, feels that
one, he went to school with everyone, and he is very good at motivat-
supporting it is just part of being a good citizen.
ing and entertaining the guests.”
“This hospital was founded on community support,” says Todd
James and Mary Ann also frequently donate jewelry to the Harvest
Suntrapak, president and CEO of the hospital. “Because of generous
Ball, the hospital’s signature fundraising event, and even host events
businesses and people like Orloff Jewelers and the entire Orloff Fam-
in their store, such as the upcoming David Yurman show, with a
ily, who give so willingly of their time, talent and treasure, Children’s
portion of the proceeds going to benefit the hospital. Orloff Jewelers
Hospital is able to continue offering the best pediatric medical care in
also donated a mobile gaming center that goes from room to room to
the region and supports our goal of becoming the best in the nation.”
distract the kids from the distress of being ill.
Fundraising events are an important part of achieving this goal, and
“Jamie’s dedication and positive example shows what one business
the Orloffs are deeply involved in this endeavor. If you have ever been
member can do in the community,” says Robert Saroyan, vice-pres-
to the Evening Under the Stars event, raising money for the hospital’s
ident of philanthropy and chief development officer of the hospital.
Willson Heart Center, you have witnessed James Orloff taking up the
“Our supporters have helped us to become one of the largest children’s
gavel as the auctioneer.
hospitals in the state and one of the largest of its type in the nation.”
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designer spotlight
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New Carreras with in-house movements
and a Formula One for l adies
TAG Heuer is widely recognized for its chronographs and its progressive approach to
technology and design — TAG stands for Technique Avant-Garde. The company’s 154
year history of watchmaking innovation is especially evident this year in the new Carrera
collection. The latest models are equipped with TAG Heuer’s newest movement — its
second movement entirely manufactured in-house, this time with an unprecedented 80hour power reserve.
The Carrera was the first sports chronograph created specifically for professional drivers
and sports-car enthusiasts. It was designed in 1963 by Jack Heuer, great-grandson of the
brand’s founder and grandson of the CEO during its golden era of innovation in the 1960s
and 1970s. The collection was named for the Carrera Panamericana Mexico Road Race,
a grueling, open-road endurance competition. The Carrera is distinguished by its rugged
construction and at-a-glance legibility, two things essential to sports watches. Today’s sleek
designs are also noted for their uncluttered elegance, helping to coin the phrase “sportsdress watch.” The design elements draw upon the timeless codes of motorsports, including
the black and white of vintage dashboard counters and the perforated leather driving gloves
favored by professional drivers.
This year’s new Carrera Calibre 5 Automatic in steel and rose gold features an H-shaped
bracelet, which has become another recognizable signature of the Carrera collection. The
blend of gold and fine-brushed steel is finished with meticulously polished edges on lateral
rows. There is also a steel and yellow gold version of this 39mm watch.
Monaco 37mm Automatic
with steel case, black dial,
and black alligator strap.
$3,800
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Link 43mm Automatic
chronograph with steel
case, black dial, and
fine-brushed
steel
bracelet. $4,350
Aquaracer 34mm, in steel and
18k rose gold, with an automatic
movement, white dial with rose gold
markers, and fine brushed steel and
18k rose gold bracelet. $4,700
The 41mm Carrera 5 Day-Date Automatic is equipped with day and date
functions, with rose gold-plated hands, indexes, date window and logo, all meticulously hand applied. The polished and satin-brushed indexes accentuate
the contrast with the hands, creating a highly readable dial — a trademark of
the Carrera, and a loyal tribute to Jack Heuer’s original design. The date window, with its polished sides, provides a simultaneous day-date display, while
the entirely polished case may be fitted with an ergonomic bracelet featuring
H-shaped links or an alligator leather strap for a more traditional look.
The Monaco collection is also an essential element of TAG
Heuer’s involvement in the racing world. Steve McQueen
picked out a TAG Heuer Monaco to go with the white racing
suit he wore in the 1971 film Le Mans, and since then, the
chunky square-cased Monaco has been a symbol of speed and
savvy, with the unshakable association to McQueen’s era-defining cool. The watch, introduced in 1969 in honor of the
Monaco Grand Prix, was the first automatic chronograph and
the first chrono to feature a square case. The Aquaracer and Formula One collections are also associated with the high-paced world of auto racing. A highlight of
the new Aquaracer collection this year is the elegant steel and
18k gold automatic model. As a tribute to ladies who love the
TAG Heuer aesthetic, there is a Formula One for women this
year, in steel and ceramic, set with diamonds. Rounding out the company’s lines
is the Link, collection, an elegant dress watch with sporty elements and reliable
mechanical movements.
Founded in Saint-Imier in 1860 by Edouard Heuer, TAG Heuer is among the
elite brands to win the world’s most coveted watchmaking award, the Geneva
Watchmaking Grand Prix “Aiguille d’Or.” The brand is a sponsor of the F1
Vodafone McLaren Mercedes team and its World Champion Jenson Button,
the Automobile Club of Monaco for the prestigious Monaco Grand Prix and the
new FIA Formula E Championship, the world’s top competition for electrically
powered racing cars. TAG Heuer is also a partner of Oracle Team USA, 2013
champion of sailing’s most prestigious trophy, the 34th America’s Cup.
Formula One 37mm in steel
and ceramic, with diamond
bezel, white dial, and
polished white ceramic and
steel bracelet. $2,850
Carrera 39mm Automatic, with steel and
18k rose gold bezel, anthracite dial and
anthracite alligator strap. $4,950
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exceptional automobiles
Don’t just show up...
rrive
t h e
n e w
a u d i
a
8
Some dress for success. Others drive it. With an unrivaled level of luxury, craftsmanship and per-
formance, the A8 ensures that there’s no mistaking your arrival. The 2015 A8 further underscores its positioning as the
drivers’ luxury sedan in 2015 through design changes that communicate a wider stance and more dynamic look throughout
the A8 model line.
“As the flagship of the Audi brand, the A8 represents the best in Audi innovation, design, and craftsmanship” said Scott
Keogh, President, Audi of America. “The A8 has been a strong contributor toward building our brand and the changes for
the 2015 model year will continue to build upon that success.”
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O R L O F F
J E W E L E R S
M A G A Z I N E
exceptional automobiles
The A8 model line continues to offer industry-leading performance
and design. The ASF® aluminum construction of the A8 and S8 models
provides exceptional rigidity and performance while enabling excellent
efficiency due to its lightweight characteristics. Completely redesigned LED
headlights are now standard on the full model line and are complemented
by powerful creases in the hood as well as a newly designed grille, bumper
and splitter.
The A8 L TDI® clean diesel makes a powerful statement in achieving the
best fuel economy in its segment with an EPA estimated 24 city/ 36 highway/
28 combined mpg, boasting improved efficiency without compromise on
performance, while the A8, equipped with the optional 4.0T V8 engine,
has been improved upon for 2015 with horsepower increasing from 420hp
to 435 hp. A new electromechanical steering column helps reduce weight
and improves fuel efficiency. Dynamic steering, newly available
as part of the sport package, provides variable-ratio steering
that increases responsiveness based on speed and steering input
required.
Industry-leading technology continues to improve the driving
experience. Active lane assist helps keep the A8 between lane
markings through active steering adjustments. Night vision assist now offers animal detection that can help alert the driver to
deer and other animals that are hard to see in the night. Animal
detection joins pedestrian detection — previously available in
the A8 model line — in the night vision system that will outline
the image of the animal/pedestrian and make an audible sound if
the object is in danger of entering the driver path. Also new are
secondary collision assist, which automatically applies the brakes
after an initial collision and a heads-up display for easier viewing
of vehicle speed, navigation and adaptive cruise control functions.
Inside, the new A8 offers available 22-way front comfort seats with 5 different massage functions, as well as improved acoustic measures for a
quieter cabin experience and optimized trunk packaging for increased space and usability.
Audi’s LED daytime running lights were an industry first.
They combine a striking aesthetic with critical safety
funcion. A car of this calibre ought to have the pinnacle
in safety innovation, but the creativity to make the same
a strong statement of style is what sets the great designers
apart. LED headlights on the A8 provide incredible
brightness and visibility. — you’ll see and be seen.
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O R L O F F
J E W E L E R S
M A G A Z I N E
When it’s time to turn the wheel, the A8 holds the road with
confidence. The quattro® all-wheel drive system helps maximize
handling performance in any pavement configuration. Cornering is
made even more precise and exhillarating with the available sport
differential. It’s a quite and smooth sanctuary in the city that will
still put a smile on your face in the stretches in-between.
The updated S8 becomes even sportier with its new exterior design, fea-
offers a selection of five different inlays and an a la carte menu of options
turing larger air intakes in the lower bumper and an available new sport
for customers to create the A8 L W12 suited specifically to their needs.
exhaust with wide oval quad tailpipes, which allows passengers to audibly
Audi also launched the A3 earlier this year — a new segment for the
experience the 520hp twin-turbo V8. Inside, the newly available Ver-
luxury market. The A3 already won the World Car of the Year award, and
mont Brown Audi design selection leather appointed interior and carbon
is a welcome addition to an already exceptional brand. The A3 is available
twill copper inlays combine the sporty character of the S8 with stunning
in three different gas engines and one diesel variant, as well as a Cabriolet.
elegance and craftsmanship.
Audi must be doing something right; With forty-three straight months
The top of the range, the A8 L W12 model is the first 12 cylinder
of sales growth, they have set the longest running monthly record sales
engine to feature intelligent cylinder control, helping provide improved
streak in the premium car market. They have obviously captured more
highway efficiency. The top of the line flagship model also benefits from
than our attention. Audi has captured the hearts and minds of discerning
all of the design changes to the lighting, hood and grille. The A8 L W12
drivers around the world.
“Audi’s A8 is the pinnacle of German über-luxury
sedans, with an exterior that is understated yet
impressive. It’s beautiful inside, too, but don’t be
fooled: The A8 can be quite athletic when the road
gets twisty.” ~Car And Driver Magazine
Having power involves having
choice, and with the A8, you have
plenty. Choose from a supercharged
333-hp V6 or the available TDI®
clean diesel engine that can take you
further on every drive. Of course, if
you’re really hungry for power, the
turbocharged 435-hp V8 can take
you on a power trip unlike any
you’ve had before.
O R L O F F
J E W E L E R S
M A G A Z I N E
[ 21
pearl trends
b y
C Y N T H I A
Pearls
U N N I N A Y A R
DAVID YURMAN 10 MM PEARL
CROSSOVER ADJUSTABLE-LENGTH
ENHANCER IN STERLING SILVER
WITH PEARL AND DIAMONDS.
DAVID YURMAN STARBURST
PEARL RING WITH PEARLS
AND DIAMONDS IN
STERLING SILVER.
Popular, Prized, and Precious
Pearls have always been a symbol of elegance and refinement. In the past, fashion icons such as
Coco Chanel, Audrey Hepburn and Jackie O were rarely photographed without their pearl necklaces.
Today, pearls continue to fascinate, whether seen on Angelina Jolie, Katy Perry, Sarah Jessica Parker,
the Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton or even Laura & Barbara Bush, and Hillary Clinton.
The most popular way of wearing pearls remains the traditional strand, long or short. Yet pearls also
come in a range of colors, sizes and shapes, and have become an integral part of original and varied
designs, whether classical, edgy or contemporary.
One of the fastest rising trends is to combine pearls and gemstones, creating new looks and new
ways to wear them. They are often a featured element in cocktail rings, forming the center of a beautiful flower or in a circle of colorful gems. Another popular trend in pearl fashion jewelry is the use
of baroque pearls. Their unusual and freeform shapes lend themselves to a vast array of designs in
brooches, earrings, pendants and bracelets. Designers also pair pearls with leather, rubber and other
non-traditional jewelry materials for today’s contemporary look. Clusters of pearls create volume
and color in all types of jewelry. Even traditional strands can be dressed up or down, knotted, worn
as a belt, or even combined with blackened metals for a vintage look. The possibilities for pearls are
endless, depending only on the imagination of the designer.
Pearls can be natural, meaning they were formed in the oyster with no human intervention, or they
can be cultured. Natural pearls are very rare and found mainly in the Gulf region of the Middle East.
Understandably, they carry a hefty price tag. Cultured pearls run the gamut as far as price goes. At the
least expensive end of the spectrum are freshwater pearls, ranging in color from cream to pink, from
gray to lavender, and even gold hues. They are cultivated mainly in ponds and small lakes in China.
Freshwater varieties are also sometimes dyed various colors for use in inexpensive fashion jewelry.
The more expensive seawater pearls can be divided into three general categories: South Sea pearls
from the oyster Pinctada maxima, from the warm waters off Australia, the Philippines and Indonesia,
ranging from white to spectacular gold; Tahitian pearls from Pinctada margaritifera oysters in French
Polynesia, ranging from black to multi-color peacock; and Akoya pearls from the Pinctada fucata oyster, grown in the cool to temperate seas near Japan and China, with a brilliant
luster in cream to pink to gold.
Because pearls are organic, they require special care. They
can be damaged if they come in contact with perfume,
cosmetics, hairspray or household cleaners. It is good
practice, therefore, to put them on last and take
them off first, and then store them in a soft cloth
DAVID YURMAN CROSSOVER
pouch, but never in plastic because it can emit a
BRACELET IN STERLING SILVER
WITH PEARLS AND DIAMONDS.
chemical that damages the pearl’s surface. Pearls
should also be worn often to let them absorb moisture from the skin, which prevents them from drying out. With a little care, these popular, prized and
precious gems can be enjoyed forever.
22
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DAVID YURMAN CABLE CUP PEARL
CLASSICS RING IN STERLING SILVER
WITH PEARL AND DIAMONDS.
DAVID YURMAN 9.5-10 MM
PEARL CROSSOVER BUTTON
EARRINGS IN STERLING SILVER
WITH DIAMONDS.
DAVID YURMAN STAR BURST PEARL
DROP EARRINGS WHITE CULTURED
FRESHWATER PEARLS.
O R L O F F
J E W E L E R S
M A G A Z I N E
wine & spirits
how to serve your
A
Pinot Noir
As with any wine, the temperature at which you serve pinot noir is key to perceiving the numerous and subtle flavors. Serving a glass at the right temperature will enable you and your
guests to experience everything the wine has to offer.
First of all, a little background is in order. A pinot noir wine starts with pinot noir
grapes, which are grown all over the world. The most famous pinot noirs are grown in
France’s Burgundy region, but many other wonderful varieties come from California
and Canada. Interesting tidbit: A champagne is produced by blending chardonnay
and pinot noir grapes. Pinot Noir’s darkened reddish color comes from the process used to produce the wine, where the clear pinot noir juice is left touching
the dark grape skins.
What flavors should you expect from a properly served glass of pinot noir?
After all, the primary reason to be mindful of serving temperatures is the
subtle flavoring of the wine. Though pinot noir’s notes do vary from region
to region, there are nevertheless a few common flavors you can expect to
find in a well-served glass: smoke, black cherry, mushroom, leather, plum,
tomato, berries, and earth. A well-served pinot noir will also have a rich,
velvety, soft, and full to medium-bodied quality.
And what about serving temperature? Finding the best temperature to
store and serve pinot noir involves a delicate balancing act. Do it right and
you will preserve all the above-listed characteristics perfectly. Your wine
will stay a beautiful balance of fruit, alcohol, and acidity that reveals the subtle
nuances of flavor.
Serving temperature does not change these characteristics, contrary to popular belief.
Temperature affects the degree to which your palate can interpret them. Pinot noir is
best served at slightly below what most consider room temperature. It is a myth that red
wines are room-temperature wines. Room temperature is too warm. Lighter-bodied red
wines like pinot noir should be served around 55 degrees Fahrenheit, or 12.8 degrees Celsius.
As you serve the wine, be careful to hold the glass correctly. Hold the stem of the glass such
that your hand does not warm the wine as you pour and as you lift the glass to your lips. If
you’re drinking with stemless glasses, only pick up the glass when you’re planning to take a sip.
It can be helpful to store bottles of pinot noir in a basement or refrigerator to help them last
longer. Storing bottles at room temperature means you have to cool them down prior to
serving, typically by leaving them in the refrigerator for two hours. Don’t cool them down
too far or you’ll miss more subtle aspects of the wine.
Storing the wine in an area that’s too warm, on the other hand, can actually affect the
wine’s flavor profile. If you store a pinot noir, or any wine, in a place where it will be
too warm for a long period, the wine can age prematurely, or the flavor may break
down. The same goes for storing the wine at temperatures that are too cold. The best
temperature for storing red wines, like pinot noir, is the same temperature at which
they are best served.
O R L O F F
J E W E L E R S
M A G A Z I N E
[ 23
designer spotlight
b y
H E D D A
S C H U P A K
100 Years
of Diamonds
F
Kwiat jewelry is a favorite on the red carpet
Natalie Portman
Founded in 1907 in New York City,
Kwiat has been family owned and
operated for more than 100
years. Sam Kwiat arrived
in the United States on a
steamship from Europe
and, upon arrival, opened
a diamond jewelry store
in the heart of New York
City’s diamond district —
at the time, downtown near
the financial district.
Halle Berry
Platinum and diamond
snowflake drop earrings.
He quickly earned a reputation
as a skilled diamond merchant who
was highly regarded for his expertise in
cutting exceptional diamonds.
Sam’s son, David, joined the family business in 1933. Like his
father, David was a talented designer and craftsman who, over time,
formed an impressive collection of important diamond jewelry that
could be found at the most exclusive shops on New York’s Fifth
Avenue and around the world.
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O R L O F F
J E W E L E R S
M A G A Z I N E
Claire Danes
By the 1960s, David had become a renowned diamond merchant. In 1965 he purchased a 126-carat rough diamond that
yielded the 50-carat “Teardrop of Africa,” cut for famed jeweler
Harry Winston. This cemented his reputation as one of the finest
diamond cutters in the world.
Kwiat diamond jewelry is a favorite of celebrities on the red carpet.
Whether it’s the Oscars, Emmys, Grammys, or any other glamorous
event, there are sure to be multiple stars draped in Kwiat jewels: Natalie
Portman, Michelle Williams, Claire Danes, Tina Fey, Fergie, Halle Berry,
Kwiat Echo double diamond
loop earrings, which were worn
by actress Emmy Rossum.
Emmy Rossum, Glenn Close, and many more. Even the men love a Kwiat
diamond: Tom Cruise and Forest Whitaker, to name just two!
In 2007, in celebration of its 100th anniversary, the Kwiat family opened a
flagship boutique in New York City’s luxury shopping district on Madison Avenue. To this day, Sam’s grandsons, Sheldon and Lowell, and his great-grandchildren
run the business according to the same principles that established the family legacy:
integrity, quality, craftsmanship and design.
Diamond strings necklace
in 18k white gold.
100 Years of Diamonds
Glenn Close
Emmy Rossum
Michelle Williams
O R L O F F
J E W E L E R S
M A G A Z I N E
[ 25
sensible attire
b y
50 IS THE NEW 13?
Everybody gets older.
So how come are so
many men still wearing
the same casual clothes
they did in their teens?
A high-level expert appears on CNN to discuss the first
Malaysian Airlines disaster attired in a tails-out plaid shirt,
shorts, and sandals. Elton John, now in his mid-60s, shows
up at a recent concert wearing a top-to-bottom Adidas
track suit. On every street in America, middle-aged men and
seniors alike amble about our streets wearing jeans, sweatshirts,
running shoes, and baseball caps. Yes, there’s something to be said
about being comfortable — and casual clothes that one has always
worn possess a warm familiarity about them — but is that any excuse
for your wardrobe letting the team down so badly?
There comes a certain time in life — most experts pinpoint it at around
age 35 — when wearing youth-oriented styles becomes as sad and silly as
a 80-year-old in a ponytail. It’s the same fork in the road where tattoos
stop looking cool and start people wondering if you’ve ever been to prison,
when walking around without a shirt on in the summer turns heads for all the
wrong reasons, when nobody congratulates you right after you’ve told them
that you’re wearing the same size jeans as you did in college.
Men not wanting to appear older is as endemic in America as overeating,
yet this problem receives very little media attention — likely because the bulk
of reporters and editors out there would themselves fall into the same sorry
category. So how do you carry off casual without looking like you’ve raided
your teenage son’s (or grandson’s) closet?
Well, you can begin by realizing that just because that jacket or trousers, or what have you, can still technically be worn doesn’t mean you
26
]
O R L O F F
J E W E L E R S
M A G A Z I N E
PHOTO COURTESY OF CARL GROSS
L E S L I E
C .
S M I T H
sensible attire
should actually wear it. Go through your dresser drawers and rigorously
get rid of any T-shirt that bears a slogan or a large logo. The same holds true
for any piece of clothing sporting the logo of a mall outlet that caters to the
under-25 crowd, as well as any piece of clothing that comes with a hood or
cargo pockets. While you’re tossing the place, if you happen to run across some
plastic shoes, up to and including high-topped athletics, Crocs, and flip-flops,
tip them in the recycling bin too.
Next, take serious stock of what’s left. That basketball/baseball/hockey/football jersey, once it’s been cut up into small pieces, would make a great addition
to the rag bag. (We know this act will prove difficult if not impossible for you
to perform, so why not make your wife extra-happy by giving her the scissors?)
Pretty much all your other garments that flaunt athletic striping should go in a
big pile for the Goodwill box. Allow the next generation to scoop these out of
PHOTO COURTESY OF HETTABRETZ
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]
O R L O F F
J E W E L E R S
M A G A Z I N E
PHOTO COURTESY OF CARL GROSS
second-hand stores for their ironic content, since irony on older men simply
not tight line to your legs, and don’t puddle down around your heels.
looks tragic. Although you may still be in pretty good shape, zippy stripes
Although you fondly recall how hot you looked back in the day in those
on track pants, socks, rugger shirts, and ski jackets belong on real athletes
chalk white or tomato red five-pockets, do not indulge in them now.
who could conceivably have a shot at competing in the next Olympics.
A dark-wash indigo is classic and retains its attraction long after other,
By now, your casual wardrobe should be whittled down to three cot-
trendier colors fade.
ton-weave shirts and your favorite pair of jeans. You love those jeans.
You will build your new, age-appropriate attire on this foundation,
Sure, they’re a bit worn and torn in places and have a few stains here and
choosing wisely sourced garments from a real, grown-up men’s store.
there, but you’ve broken them in just right over the years and… guess
You will still look relaxed but way cooler in the eyes of others. And
what? Out they go. (The shirts can stay.)
whenever you require a reminder of what not to don, simply check out
Then out you go to get a new pair of denims that fit you properly
what actor and comedian Russell Brand (age 40) is currently wearing.
at the waist, give a bit of definition to your backside, offer a trim but
PHOTO COURTESY OF CARL GROSS
O R L O F F
J E W E L E R S
M A G A Z I N E
[ 29
trends in gold
b y
H E D D A
There’s a saying in fashion circles that if you hang onto something long
enough, it comes back into style. It’s true. Of course, there’s also the corollary that if you’re old enough to have worn something the first time around, you
should pass on it the second. Luckily, that part isn’t always true. Fine jewelry transcends
all ages. It’s all in how you wear it.
The 1980s were all about gold. Jewelry was big, bold, and shiny, to offset big hair and bigger
shoulders. The trend was ubiquitous: buttons, zippers, buckles and handbag hardware also were
gold-toned, and home decor centered more on brass than chrome.
Then the 1990s came and design did an about-face. Shoulder pads gave way to slip-dresses,
supermodels to waifs, and big hair to bed-head. At home, brass was out and stainless steel ushered
in an era of industrial luxury. And in fine jewelry, a great whitewashing had begun: yellow gold
went back into the jewelry box in favor of anything diamond, silver, white gold or platinum.
But design, like history, is cyclical. Yellow gold started coming back in the aughties, and now
it’s a full-on fashion force.
The World Gold Council reported gold jewelry demand in 2013 had the largest volume
increase since 1997. Gold jewelry demand increased 6% in the fourth quarter of 2013 alone.
But we don’t need official figures to see that gold is hot. We saw it all over the red carpet,
favored by It Girls like Lupita Nyong’o and Jennifer Lawrence. In case you sat out the
Oscars, picking up a home magazine is proof enough that yellow is in: The Epoch Times
recently labeled gold “the hottest trend for 2014 home decor.”
Of course, it’s never quite the same the second time around. Just as fashion always comes back with just enough of a subtle shift to separate
the new from the old, so do home and jewelry designs. Today,
gold and copper accents warm up stainless steel and
LESLIE’S 14K YELLOW GOLD
SCRATCH FINISH BEADED
NECKLACE
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O R L O F F
J E W E L E R S
M A G A Z I N E
S H U P A K
GURHAN’S ANTIQUITIES
CHARM BRACELET IN 24K
GOLD AND GEMSTONES.
LESLIE’S 14K YELLOW
GOLD ROUND PENDANT
WITH GREY DRUZY
NECKLACE
Bold and Bright,
Gold Is Fashion Right!
LESLIE’S 14K SCRATCH
FINISH ROUND WITH
YELLOW GOLD DRUZY
POST DANGLE NECKLACE
nickel. Think of adding a touch of old-fashioned luxury to modern industrial
chic, not a 1980s brass revival.
So, back to the original question: can you wear your eighties gold without
looking like a relic from Dynasty? Yes, but not without adding something new
to bring it up to date. It’s the same rule as in fashion: one vintage piece is cool
but vintage head-to-toe just looks like Grandma was your stylist.
“We’re really seeing a redefinition of jewelry pieces, a reimagining of the
way we wear jewelry,” says Jamie Gage of LoveGold. Earrings may climb up
or cuff the ear instead of the traditional down-facing dangle, or the design
may pass through the front and back of the ear. Really modern: wear just one
super-bold earring, not a pair.
“We’re also seeing multi-finger rings or delicate midi rings that only go up
to the first knuckle. Or hand bracelets where a delicate chain goes up and over
the hand,” says Gage. “It’s all about mixing and matching and layering.”
Layering, of course, means you always have a good excuse to add to your
jewelry collection. Whether it’s stacks of bangles or chains, you can pile it on
for a larger look. Just remember: whatever you wear, statement making is the
way to wear it, so don’t be shy.
CHARLES GARNIER 40 MM
GRADUATED HOOP EARRINGS SS
W/ GOLD OVERLAY
O R L O F F
J E W E L E R S
M A G A Z I N E
[ 31
hottest trends
b y
Jewelry
C A R O L
B E S L E R
TREND REPORT
Jewelry trends this year are all about updated classics, innovative design and flawless quality.
Designers are putting a new twist on enduring styles — everything from button earrings
to the cocktail ring — giving classic looks a contemporary feel. There is a growing sense of
fearless creativity in jewelry design, the result of greater demand for jewelry that is unique
and makes an individual statement. Designs are often built around one special gemstone, or
based on shapes that make collections unique and unforgettable. This year we see everything
from the sensuous curves of bamboo to the angles of urban architecture and even the shape
of a 1950s television screen.
Quality and
innovation are
the top trends
in jewelry this
year, no matter
what the style
Perhaps the one over-arching trend that is evident in most fine jewelry today is a greater
attention to craftsmanship across the board. The standard of quality and workmanship has
notably increased, and the mark of the craftsman can be seen in even the most accessible
pieces. For diamonds and gemstones, only stones with high quality, cut and color values are
making the grade. Here are a few of our picks for what’s trending right now in jewelry, but
DAVID YURMAN TEARDROP
PENDANT 18-20 DIA WT
1.04 AH DI SIL.
don’t let the word “trend” fool you. We have chosen pieces that qualify as modern classics,
guaranteed to look beautiful for years to come
Colored
Gemstones
T
he allure of colored gemstones never goes out of style, but each season brings its favorites. This year, shades of purple dominate, in tune with Pantone’s Color of the Year,
Radiant Orchid. But blue is still a strong color in jewelry, heralding a new age of popularity
for fine blue sapphire and for the lighter shades of blue chalcedony and lots of aquamarine.
(By the way, sapphire comes in many different colors, and being one of the hardest gems, it
is highly appropriate for rings). And opal is one of the strongest gems in the jewelry market
right now at all levels. Because of opal’s unique play of color, no two ever seem exactly the
same, and the gem works with so many different colors of complementary gemstones (and
fashions!), making it a highly versatile gem.
PERIDOT AND DIAMOND
EARRINGS BY EICHHORN
IVAN GEMS 14KT WG
TANZANITE RING WITH
DIAMONDS.
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]
O R L O F F
J E W E L E R S
M A G A Z I N E
CARL K. GUMPERT 18K
WHITE GOLD CITRINE
DIAMOND EARRINGS.
To view the entire collection & locate an authorized dealer, please visit www.endlessjewelry.us
hottest trends
Black and
White
T
here is something timeless, classic and elegant about black and
white, the world’s most sophisticated color combination. In jew-
elry, it reignites the styles of the Art Deco era, with diamonds and onyx
or black sapphire. Today, many more gems are available to create the
elegance of black and white, including white sapphires, white or black
spinel. And styles are not just Art Deco but also Bohemian Chic, with
long necklaces, hand crafted chains and even blackened metals for an
edgier look. Black and white can be worn with virtually anything, and
H.J. NAMDAR 14K WG
DIAMOND FASHION
EARRINGS W/ BLACK
DIAMONDS 1.39CTW.
will never, ever go out of style.
H.J. NAMDAR 14K WG FASHION
DIAMOND PENDANT BLACK
DIAMONDS 0.85TW.
H.J. NAMDAR 14 KARAT YELLOW
GOLD RING. ROUND WHITE DIA: 0.24
TOTAL WEIGHT. ROUND CHAMPAGNE
DIA: 1.44 TOTAL WEIGHT. TOTAL
DIAMOND WEIGHT: 1.68.
Diamonds
D
iamonds are the single most important gem in fine jewelry and timepieces, and have never been more popular.
In both bridal and fashion pieces, there is a trend toward
large cushion-shaped diamonds surrounded by halos of
smaller gems, often colored diamonds or even colored gemstones, as well as white diamonds. Diamond slices are also
still popular, lending a contemporary mosaic feel to fine fashion jewelry. There are some classic diamond segments that
will never go out of style: right hand rings, long necklaces
with stations of diamonds, classic tennis bracelets, and
ear studs. And of course, quality never goes out of
style. Look into picking a special cut that gives a
diamond maximum sparkle or brilliance.
DIAMOND EARRINGS
FROM THE SUNBURST
COLLECTION BY KWIAT.
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]
O R L O F F
J E W E L E R S
M A G A Z I N E
H.J. NAMDAR 14K DIAMOND PENDANT W/
2.62TW FANCY COLOR DIAMONDS & 0.05TW
ROUND BRILLIANTS.
KWIAT 18 KT WHITE GOLD OVAL
OVERLAY DIAMOND DROP EARRINGS
1.88 CTW GH/VS2-SI1.
Earrings
H
alos, diamond studs, drops, buttons, doorknockers and line
earrings — anything goes in earrings right now, as they rival
the cocktail ring as the must-have statement piece of the moment.
The one thing they all have in common is lots of volume, with
bigger gems, larger proportions — often with cut-out metals to
reduce the weight — and lots of diamond sparkle. There is a
greater variety of styles than ever before, with earrings
now designed for every occasion: gold for every day,
a bit of color for some pop, cascading diamonds for
evening and diamond studs for the gym. There is
BLACK AND WHITE DIAMOND
EARRINGS BY DAVID YURMAN.
no occasion that does not call for earrings. Don’t
leave the house without them!
ORLOFF JEWELERS PARAIBA, DIAMOND
EARRINGS P@ 0.77 TW DIA.@ 2.65 TW.
Rings
DIAMOND EARRINGS FROM THE KWIAT
STAR COLLECTION IN 18K GOLD.
T
he cocktail ring, big, bold and unique, is hot right
now. It lends itself more than any other segment to
one-of-a-kind status, as most are built around one spectacular gemstone. Today, the center stone is being complemented by other colored gemstones in new, fearless
combinations of colors that have never been seen before.
DIAMOND RING IN 18K GOLD FROM THE
KWIAT SUNBURST COLLECTION.
GABRIEL & CO. 14 KT
WHITE GOLD CROSSOVER
CIRCLE DIAMOND FASHION
RING .73 CTW SIZE 6.5.
The diamond ring is also becoming a lot more interesting,
with designers dreaming up different ways to decorate the
shanks, prongs and halo or bezel settings with special cuts,
shapes and even colors, giving the diamond right-handring new life. There are also some daring new styles, such
as the knuckle ring and bracelet ring. And the practice of
stacking rings — to create a different look every time
— is quickly becoming a modern classic.
KWIAT DIAMOND AND SAPPHIRE FASHION
RING IN 18 KT WHITE GOLD FROM THE
CONFETTI COLLECTION SAP CTW 1.39
DTW F-G/VS2.
KWIAT 18 KT WHITE GOLD DOUBLE FLOWER
DIAMOND FASHION RING FROM THE SUNBURST
COLLECTION 0.89 CTW GH/VS2-SI1.
GABRIEL & CO. 14 KT ROSE
GOLD DIAMOND FASHION
RING .38 CTW SIZE 6.5.
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designer spotlight
b y
C A R O L
B E S L E R
Stellare collection earrings,
handmade with 14k gold and 0.62tcw
of diamonds. $1,230
Kaslique collection necklace,
handmade with 14k gold and
0.13tcw of diamonds. $505
Diamond ring,
handmade with 14k
white gold and 0.70tcw
of diamonds. $2,145
Bangle, handmade with sterling silver,
black rhodium, pearls and 0.56tcw of
black spinel, from the Carmen Marc
Valvo by Gabriel & Co.
Gabriel & Co.’s
Fashion Focus
Introducing several new collections
with foundations in the fashion world
Gabriel & Co. is a New York based jewelry design house
founded in 1989 by brothers Jack and Dominick Gabriel. What
started as a small diamond wholesale operation has since evolved
into one of America’s most prolific fine jewelry brands, the goal
of which is to provide an unparalleled styling experience to the
wearer. Each piece is customizable, allowing a woman – the brothers affectionately refer to their customer as the “Gabriel Woman”
– to personalize her jewelry look to every stage in her life.
Recently, the company has pursued an intensely fashion forward direction, elevating its presence by appointing former InStyle magazine fashion director Hal Rubenstein as Gabriel’s global
style director. The new collections created in collaboration with
Rubenstein debuted recently at the JCK jewelry trade show in Las
Vegas. A fervent jewelry lover, collector and wearer, Rubenstein
carefully put together a series of styles that reflect his philosophy that women should wear their best jewelry daily, instead of
tucking it away for special occasions. “The five new collections I
curated for Gabriel & Co. are distinctive and exclusive, and yet all
share a wonderful overriding philosophy – that beautifully crafted
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Diamond hoop earrings,
handmade with 14k
white gold and 0.55tcw
of diamonds. $1,355
jewelry is not to be stored and saved for specific occasions,” says
Rubenstein. “Instead, I believe jewelry should be worn every day
because you never know which day is going to turn out to be special, and when that happens, shouldn’t you always look your best?”
Gabriel & Co. also recently collaborated with fashion designer
Carmen Marc Valvo to co-design a jewelry collection that appeared in the designer’s runway show at Mercedes Benz Fashion
week in New York this summer. The collection commemorates
the companies’ joint 25th anniversaries this year. It marries vintage looks with modern details, paying homage to some of the
most iconic jewelry styles of the twentieth century. Designed to
compliment Valvo’s Spring 2015 ready-to-wear and couture collections, highlights include: vintage inspired 10.5 millimeter black
and white pearl earrings set in sterling silver or black rhodium;
coil bangles in combinations of sterling silver and red onyx layered
with white quartz, smoky quartz or black mother-of-pearl layered
with white quartz; stackable bangles in combinations of sterling
silver and white pearls with black spinel or black rhodium with
black pearls and black spinel; white sapphire and black spinel encrusted cuffs in sterling silver and black rhodium.
“We are thrilled to partner with Carmen Marc Valvo as we celebrate 25 years in the fine jewelry business,” says vice-president/
designer Dominick Gabriel. “We are continually inspired by Carmen’s pristine designs and this collection is a labor of love between
two brands whose combined mission is to make women look and
feel beautiful,” says CEO Berna Gabriel.
www.orloffjewelers.com
770 West Shaw Avenue | Suite 101
Fresno, CA 93704
559.221.6622
dining destinations
Culinary
Delight
Dining in Sausalito
Sausalito, California is a prime destination for a weekend getaway or an extended
Pacific coast excursion filled with nyriad culinary possibilities. While you’re there,
you’ll definitely want to check out some of these exceptional dining opportunites.
Murray Circle Restaurant At Cavallo Point — the Lodge at the Golden Gate
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Cavallo Point’s acclaimed restaurant Murray Circle, under the direction of Executive
Chef Justin Everett, is one of the Bay Area’s top culinary destinations. A meal here is
inspired, highlighting refined modern Northern California cuisine anchored to its Marin
roots, the freshest local ingredients, and stunning Golden Gate Bridge views.
Settle into the elegant yet comfortable dining room accented with beautifully restored
tin ceilings, fine art photography, and toasty fireplaces. Outside, soak up the sun on
plush outdoor seating on the historic porch, with sweeping views of San Francisco and
the Golden Gate Bridge.
Executive Chef Justin Everett, a longtime resident of the Bay Area with extensive
experience in California’s Wine Country, uses the finest local ingredients, building on
long-standing relationships with Bay Area farmers and fishermen. Straight from the
source at the height of flavor, these ingredients inspire food carefully crafted to showcase
the best of the season.
Once you’ve made your dining decisions, pair them with selections from the stellar
wine collection. Featuring over 2,000 options and 30 wines by the glass, Murray Circle’s
wine cellar is one of California’s deepest and most diverse. Enhanced by its proximity to
celebrated wine regions, it showcases local artisan wines from small California producers,
often hard to find — combined with the best vintages of Europe’s top estates.
Poggio
777 Bridgeway, Sausalito
415-332-7771 • www.poggiotrattoria.com
Poggio from the Italian translation for “a special hillside place,” is a classic Italian tratto-
ria with comfortable neighborhood charm and destination-caliber cuisine. Using the best
available local ingredients and property-grown organic herbs and vegetables, the daily
changing menu features soulful classics of Northern Italy, simply and earnestly prepared.
The SF Gate says: “Sausalito meets the Italian coast at this handsome restaurant
overlooking Bridgeway and the Sausalito marina. Ben Balesteri takes an artisan approach
to cooking — grilling lamb’s tongue over oak wood, making his own burrata, crafting
light potato gnocchi and tossing it with a rabbit ragout. He also gathers much of the
produce from the restaurant’s garden to use in such recipes as long-cooked spigariello soup.
Owner Larry Mindel, who brought the Il Fornaio chain to prominence, opened this all-day
restaurant ten years ago, installing a timeless interior featuring terra cotta floors, marble
baseboards and mahogany arches.”
The seasonal menu that changes daily features locally grown ingredients and items from
the large-display wood-fired rotisserie and grill and wood roasting oven.
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ASS VIEW
S
LD’S
60 1 M UR
RA Y
601 Murray Circle | Fort Baker | Sausalito
Phone: 415-339-4750 • www.cavallopoint.com/murray-circle-restaurant.html
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Barrel House
660 Bridgeway, Sausalito
415-729-9593 • http://barrelhousetavern.com
With a Northern California vibe, attentive hospitality, and a locally sourced, seasonal
menu, the Barrel House Tavern is open every day for all your social gatherings. Nestled
downtown overlooking the Bay, Chris Henry’s Barrel House Tavern is an inviting urban
oasis and a lively destination fit for an intimate dinner for two or a celebratory venue for
large groups.
Landmarked as a historical building, this location was the first ferry terminal to and
from San Francisco for Sausalito before the Golden Gage Bridge was built. Now converted into a modern eatery, its sure to put anyone at-ease with contemporary twists on
rustic comfort food. Check out these reviews:
“Wow. Second floor outdoor deck, seated right over the water with 270 degree views of
our city by the bay. Stunning. Had the Don & Sons Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, better than
expected, a nice blend of Carneros and Petaluma Gap fruit from Mr. Sebastiani. We ordered
three of the small dishes, and all were great (tomatoes; flatbread w/onion/apple; and the
triangles of watermelon ceviche). Great service. I’m still stunned. The main room is equally
impressive. This place is a magic carpet ride. It’s a home run.” ~ David C., Novato, CA
@C av al lo
Po in t
“What’s not to like? Trendy atmosphere. Phenomenal views. Good service. Very tasty food
(I recommend the seafood dishes). They have great bar-type seating outside that stares directly
out to the bay. Also a big bar indoors with a fireside lounge area. Not a bad table in the place!”
~ Tami S, San Francisco
The Trident
558 Bridgeway, 1st Floor, Sausalito
415-331-3232 • www.thetridentsausalito.com
Trident Philosophy (circa 1960s): It was a another time, but the same place...
Where you can still channel your inner love child and groove on the original
Trident atmosphere and philosophy, which advocated “positive energy projection” and
offered “good-tasting, natural, wholesome, organic foods in a living, growing and stimulating atmosphere.” And, as in those heady, halcyon days, we invite you to “take a deep
breath, relax and dig on the love and artistry about you. May all our offerings please you.
Peace within you.”
But times change, and in 1980 The Trident closed its doors and became the popular
Horizons restaurant. Now it has come full circle to The Trident once again, where you
can enjoy the original decor from the 1960s, including the famous wall (and ceiling) art
and rich, warm woodwork featuring voluptuously flowing curves. Following its original
philosophy, The Trident offers satisfying and sophisticated fare showcasing local, organic,
and sustainably produced ingredients. Today’s Trident is still groovy after all these years.
Executive Chef James Montejano adds his passion for seafood and flair for creating the
ultimate dining experience to The Trident. A seasoned chef that has worked at some of
California’s top restaurants, James was educated at the California Culinary Academy. In
San Francisco, he is known for supporting local farmers, fishermen, and sustainable organic
food producers, which allows him to provide you the freshest food for dining experience.
The Trident is the perfect place to sit on the deck, enjoy fresh seafood with a signature cocktail and experience the bay. Less than five-minute walk from Blue & Gold and
Golden Gate Ferries. Peace, love, and bon appétit!
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accessories for him
b y
MAN
D E B O R A H
Y O N I C K
Dog tag from the Meteorite
collection by David Yurman.
ABOUT
TOWN
Mixed metals, precious gems, and cuff bracelets are dominating men’s jewelry
Men stepped out of the recession with bag on hip
and bracelet on wrist, proclaimed The New York Times
in 2012, and since then, accessories have become even
more important to the modern man, as his perception
of fashion continues to grow.
“The recession has taught men that looking fashionable can be a key
component to getting and keeping a job,” says jewelry stylist and TV host,
Michael O’Connor. “Accessories give men more opportunities to make a
personal statement on traditional fashion. Men are feeling more confident
about experimenting, realizing they have more options available to them
than ever.”
Smart designers and otherwise iconic female brands caught the news
early that men’s jewelry was on the rise and have been building on the
category recently. O’Connor recognizes artists like Stephen Webster, John
Hardy, and David Yurman as pioneers.
When it comes to fashion accessories, expressing individual style for a
reasonable price is now more possible than ever. Designers today are using
a broad range of materials including alternative metals, leathers, and exotic
stones.
Embracing Bracelets
Bracelets are probably the most popular choice in men’s jewelry next to the wristwatch. Favorite styles mix materials like
precious and alternative metals with woven leather and rubber,
multi-colored sail cord, gem, or exotic wood inlay, and diamond details. Bead bracelets are very popular from designers
like Yurman, Hardy, and Webster, mixing detailed silver clasps
with gems such as carnelian, lapis, and black onyx. Moreover,
cuff styles with interesting patterns and new takes on the ID
bracelet with gem inlay are trending.
In rings, right hand fashion bands are strong in mixed metals
with diamond accents (black and cognac are favorites) or inlaid
with other materials like enamel or wood. The signet ring remains a
favorite style, not only in classic monogrammed gold designs, but also
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showcasing gem centers (carved, cabochon, inlay, pavé) and mixing metals
(i.e. titanium and yellow or black gold).
In cuff links, designs range from traditional classics to whimsical, lifestyle imagery like mermaids, dragons, lions, eagles, and skulls. In necklaces,
new takes on dog tags are especially popular. Designers are working tag
pendants in much the same way they are bringing new takes to the basic
signet ring, with interesting gem centers, unique engraved patterns, and
mixed metals, colors, and textures.
Gem Curious
“What’s most exciting in men’s design is a growing fascination with
gem material like black and brown diamonds, sapphire, tanzanite, abalone,
and mother-of-pearl, even meteorite,” says Mark Melancon, precious and
contemporary metal band manager for Stuller. Cohen cites greater use of
color expressed not only in stones, but also enamels, dyed leathers, and
plated metals.
And don’t forget the diamonds. After all, why should the most precious
stone on earth be reserved only for women!
screen legend
b y
Even after all this time, there’s something strange about
seeing Lauren Bacall in color. Maybe it’s because some of
her greatest work was in film noir, but she’s always seemed
better suited to black-and-white — to a bygone, romanticized vision of the silver screen that probably never actually
existed. It’s not just me: Bacall herself longed for a career
that was part of Hollywood’s early years. “If I could have
lived as an actress in any period,” she once said, “it would
have been the 1920s — I would have loved to have been
part of that speakeasy era.” But she came of age at a
different time. And then life intervened.
Bacall was born in New York City in September 1924. Her name was Betty Joan
Perske, and her father, whom she refers to
as a “bastard,” ran out when she was five.
Bacall came from her grandmother, who
was Bacal. (Lauren would come later when
she moved to Hollywood.) Initially, she
wanted to be a dancer, but she tried acting
and modeling. “I didn’t think I was ever
any good,” she told the Guardian about her
modeling days. “I didn’t look at all like any of
the other fabulous-looking creatures.” Her luck
changed, though, when she appeared on the cover of
Harper’s Bazaar in the spring of 1943. Filmmaker Howard Hawks’s wife Nancy saw the 18-year-old on the front
of the magazine and mentioned to her husband that he
ought to think about casting her in something.
A year later, her first film hit theaters. To Have and Have
Not, the story goes, came together when Hawks made a bet
with author Ernest Hemingway that he could make a
movie out of Hemingway’s worst novel, which Hawks
deemed to be To Have and Have Not. Whether you
agree with Hawks’s assessment of the source material,
the film (which differs sharply from it) is a classic,
and Bacall was on her way, now dubbed Lauren
due to Hawks’s prompting.
acall
B
T H E
I NC O M P ARA B L E
Lauren Bacall
12/16/1924 - 8/12/2014
“It was Howard Hawks who changed my life,” Bacall told
Vanity Fair in 2011. “Despite all of his great accomplishments — Bringing Up Baby, Scarface, some of the best
pictures to that date — his one ambition was to find
a girl and invent her, to create her as his
perfect woman. He was my Svengali,
and I was to become, under his
tutelage, this big star, and he
would own me.”
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bacall was sexy because, even at a young age,
she exuded an adult sophistication.
But as much as Hawks wanted to control her — and, apparently, sleep with
her — he lost Bacall to her costar. When Bacall had gone to see Casablanca with
her aunt a few years earlier, she hadn’t been overly impressed with Humphrey
Bogart. “[Aunt] Rosalie was mad about Humphrey Bogart,” Bacall wrote in
her 1978 memoir By Myself. “I thought he was good in it, but mad about him?
Not at all. She thought he was sexy. I thought she was crazy.” That all changed
when she filmed To Have and Have Not with Bogart. Although he was married,
Bogart kissed her one night while visiting her trailer. Soon, they were an item
— and soon after that, a love story onscreen mirrored one off it. As film critic
Leonard Maltin described To Have and Have Not, “It’s one of these instances
where it’s quite possible that we are eyewitnesses to an actor or actress falling
in love, and while good actors make us believe that all the time, there has to be
some extra kick when it’s real.”
Fame and love were hers now, as well as the establishment of her famous
persona. Smoky voice — she finally gave up cigarettes in the 1980s — but
also tough, funny, and vulnerable all at once, Bacall was sexy because, even
at a young age, she exuded an adult sophistication. That’s all encapsulated in
the movie’s most famous line, her character Slim telling Bogart’s Steve, “You
know how to whistle, don’t you, Steve? You just put your lips together and”
— pausing just long enough — “blow.” It’s delivered with utter confidence
and nonchalance, which is even more impressive considering how intimidated
she was at first about being in front of the camera. It was Hawks’s suggestion
that she calm herself by putting her chin down and looking up that gave birth
to her trademark sultry stare, which suggested a lifetime of experience and
street smarts in someone so young.
Fresh from her star-making turn in To Have and Have Not, Bacall had
other successes, costarring with Bogart in The Big Sleep — the trailer declared
“They’re Together Again!” — Dark Passage, and Key Largo, all in glorious black
and white. The two were married in 1945, and while she looked at their life
together as some of her happiest years, it took a toll on her career. “He had told
me that he wouldn’t marry me if I wanted a career,” she said in 2005. “He had
been married already to three actresses, each time a disaster. And I was so mad
about him I said, ‘Of course. Absolutely. I only want to be with you.’’’
She still acted — her 1950s highlights include How to Marry a Millionaire
and Written on the Wind — but by the time he died in 1957, her stardom was
more related to being married to Bogart than to her own fine work. “My obit
is going to be full of Bogart, I’m sure,” she once said. “I’ll never know if that’s
true. If that’s the way it is, that’s the way it is.” She left Los Angeles behind,
moved to New York, and focused on theater. She won two Tonys for lead
actress in musicals, for Applause and Woman of the Year. And she kept popping
up in films — Sidney Lumet’s Murder on the Orient Express in 1974, Robert
Altman’s Health in 1980 — but she seemed to have mostly left that life behind.
“You can’t imagine how beautiful L.A. was then,” she said about moving to
Hollywood as a young girl. “Of course, it’s all ruined now.”
If movie fame had faded, her life kept marching forward. She married Jason
Robards, their divorce one of the major topics covered in By Myself, which
won her the National Book Award. Whether it was speaking honestly about
her marriages or trying to break with the notion of how the traditional mother
should behave, Bacall has never lost the toughness she portrayed onscreen at
an early age. “I remember my oldest son, Steve, saying to me once, ‘I don’t ever
remember seeing you with an apron on,’’’ Bacall once said. “And I thought,
‘That’s right, honey, you did not.’ That was his concept of what a mother
should be.”
And she’s never lost that no-nonsense attitude either. “There have always
been rumors about me: Oh, she’s very difficult. Be careful of her,” she wrote in
By Myself. “People who don’t know me — even some people who do know me
— know that I say what I think. Very few people want to hear the truth. Bogie
was like that, my mother was like that, and I’m like that. I believe in the truth,
and I believe in saying what you think. Why not? Do you have to go around
whispering all the time or playing a game with people? I just don’t believe in
Lauren Bacall and Humphrey Bogart in To Have and Have Not
that. So I’m not the most adored person on the face of the earth. But I wasn’t
put on earth to be liked. I have my own reasons for being and my own sense of
what is important and what isn’t, and I’m not going to change that.”
She demonstrated that beautifully while doing press for Birth, the 2004
film that starred Nicole Kidman as a woman convinced that a ten-year-old
boy is the reincarnation of her beloved dead husband. A reporter asked Bacall,
a film legend, what it was like to work with Kidman, another legend. Bacall
cut off the reporter: “What is this ‘legend’? [Kidman] can’t be a legend, you
have to be older.” It was the sort of comment that we almost never see in
the film press since celebrities are so careful not to ruffle any feathers. But
it wasn’t said out of spite; it was a simple fact. “What I meant was that her
career is just beginning,” Bacall later clarified to the Guardian. “She is wonderfully talented, a working actress. I hate these labels, I hate categories. Why
do they have to burden her with all that? Legends are all to do with the past
and nothing to do with the present.”
Bacall probably understands that as well as anyone. When she shows up
in a movie now, there’s a sense that a regal presence from another time has
somehow beamed in to our universe. No doubt her decision to focus on being
a mother and a wife curtailed her career, a choice with which professional
women in many different fields must contend. But like her modest assessment
of her acting ability, she seems to be at peace with how things played out.
“I put my career in second place throughout both my marriages and it
suffered,” she has said. “I don’t regret it You make choices.” As for her talent:
“I don’t consider myself a great actress. I’m just trying to stay alive, actually.
I think I’m good, and I’ve learned a lot, certainly, mostly in the theater. I’ve
been sloughed off movies for years. But what can you do? That’s life.”
A pretty great one, actually.
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estate
b y
jewelry
D E B O R A H
Y O N I C K
Estate
guardians of the
Fine, casual, chic jewelry does not always have to be newly made
Consumers searching for special pieces unique to them are finding that
jewels from the past deliver in design, craftsmanship, investment value
and personal meaning.
The market for antique and estate jewelry is robust, with demand
strong in very rare, high-end pieces, gem quality pearls and colored stones
as well as fine signed jewels from top houses like Van Cleef & Arpels,
Cartier, Boucheron, Lalique and Harry Winston. There is also a growing
movement among brides and grooms to make their “something old” a
wedding or engagement ring from the past.
Previously owned jewelry doesn’t always imply signed pieces from elite
jewelry houses, though. It is also possible to find affordable, meaningful
alternatives to auction pieces. And many pre-owned finds are unique,
with elements such as old mine cuts, romantic filigree designs and period
style characteristics, making them stand apart from more modern pieces.
There is also a lot of interest in recycling today, which appeals to buyers
of estate jewelry.
popul ar periods
Art Deco, nearly 100 years old now, remains the most enduring design
period in estate jewelry, a market favorite for its timeless on-trend qualities.
Recognized for its mix of bold colors, geometric forms and diverse materials, Deco style is modern and easy to wear. Diamonds
were very popular in the period, often with rubies,
sapphires and emeralds, and the use of black onyx
contrasted with white diamonds and rock crystal
is a defining characteristic. While the period covers the early 1920s to mid 1930s, its influence
extends through the ’50s and ’60s, and into
current day.
Cartier, Tiffany and Van Cleef & Arpels are considered to have created some
of their most iconic work during the Art
Deco period. But the buzz in estate circles
is that the works of Suzanne Belperron are
destined to be a collector’s favorite. Ahead
of her time, Belperron was among the most
revolutionary designers of the 20th century. A
head designer at Maison René Boivin (19191932), her unsigned designs diverged from
conventional Art Deco style in gold and
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semi-precious stones as opposed to platinum and diamonds. She gained increasing notoriety after a May 2012 Sotheby’s Geneva sale of her own personal collection.
Jewelry from the 1940s, especially big chunky bracelets in yellow and pink
gold, with sprinkles of diamonds, or necklaces with gems and enamel are
spot on trend. Moreover, there’s a resurgence in brooches that also serve as
pendants and hairpieces. In fact, head ornaments like tiaras and bejeweled
headbands are very much in fashion. Likewise, cameos from all eras, some
carved out of gems like layered agate and jasper, are back in vogue, especially
in pendants and rings.
But the real sizzle, many say, is in mid-century modern, particularly the
1960-’70s, as more goods are available from this time than in earlier
periods, offering some amazing finds. Especially popular are wildlife and nature patterns, something that
gained a following in the 1960s among major
houses like David Webb, Cartier and Van
Cleef & Arpels.
People who hunt for estate and antique
jewelry are drawn by the thrill of the chase.
You never know what your treasure-hunting
dealer or retailer has uncovered in the dusty
jewelry boxes of previous owners who, for
one reason or another, want to sell their
pieces – it’s always something different,
always a surprise. Imagine channeling your
inner Marilyn Monroe, wearing an amazing
1959 diamond floral necklace by Harry Winston! Collectors of estate jewelry relish in the
artistry, history and beauty of what they may
discover.
designer spotlight
b y
C Y N T H I A
U N N I N A Y A R
Monelle Designs
unmatched from mine to market
Monelle Designs features
a wide range of diamond
earrings, including these
trendy tassels.
Exquisite diamond
engagement ring and
matching wedding band.
Contemporary, yet classic,
diamond bangles.
Engagement ring featuring
diamonds on the top and
sides of the shank.
Monelle Designs has a wide range of
bridal jewelry, with decorated shanks,
to accommodate a variety of solitaires.
Nikhil and Ela Jhaveri are two people who really know diamonds.
Drawing on four generations of experience and know-how dealing with
the precious gems, they started their own business, Jhaveri Diamond
Corporation, more than a quarter of a century ago, selling loose stones. A
few years later, they created the fine jewelry company Monelle Designs,
also based in Los Angeles.
“While selling the loose stones, we received so many requests for
finished jewelry that we decided to create a second company,” explains
Nikhil. But for the Jhaveris, it was about more than just selling diamond jewelry, as exquisite as it might be. “It was about creating a
beautiful product based on our values,” he says. “We therefore sought
out retailers, such as Orloff Jewelers, that share these values and our
commitment to ethical practices, corporate social responsibility and
conflict-free diamonds.
These are not mere words. The brand’s production partner is a member of the Responsible Jewelry Council, is ISO-Certified, and meets or
exceeds the global benchmarks for good governance and sustainability.
The diamonds are also sourced directly from the mines, so they can be
certified as conflict-free.
“We are also very demanding about the end product,” adds Ela, “not
only in terms of superb craftsmanship, but also in terms of design.” To this
end, Monelle Designs works with detail-oriented designers from around
the world who have a finger on the pulse of fashion. “We look at trends
and then bring them to the consumer in ways that the designs still retain
their elegant timelessness,” she says. “Our goal is to provide sophisticated
yet simple heirlooms that are passed from one generation to the next.”
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A selection of stackable
diamond bangles.
So, just what are these heirlooms? Trendy tassels, elegant hoops, stackable bangles, hearts, studs, right-hand rings, eternity bands and threestone rings are but a few of the brand’s luxurious, fashion-forward, and
yet affordable diamond creations.
While fashion designs make up about 40% of Monelle’s main production, most of the remaining 60% is composed of exquisite bridal pieces.
“This is a category that gives us special pleasure,” muses Nikhil. “Many of
our customers share their story of how they became engaged. Many are
quite original, such as putting the ring in dessert or half-burying it in the
ground and leaving a piece to shine in the dark so the bride-to-be sees it
in the moonlight. It’s amazing how creative people can be when popping
the question.” Ela goes on to add, “We even have people who call us two
or even three years later to tell us how much they love their wedding
rings. These stories bring us a lot of joy and touch our hearts.”
When not overseeing Monelle Designs, Nikhil Jhaveri is active in the
jewelry community. He is a member of the Executive Committee of the
World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) and is president of the
Diamond Club of the West Coast (for the last five years). Recently, he
was appointed to the advisory board of the prestigious American Gem
Society (AGS) Lab. The AGS is the country’s preeminent jewelry trade
organization dedicated to consumer protection. Only a small percentage
of jewelry stores belong to this elite group of dedicated professionals.
Over the last 25 years, the Jhaveris have built their reputation on service, attention to detail, and the promise of delivering the highest quality
products at the most competitive prices. Clearly, this is why Monelle
Designs is unmatched from mine to market.
designer spotlight
b y
C Y N T H I A
U N N I N A Y A R
sparkling
sophistication
the Michael M. Collection
Drawing on a quarter-century of experience in manufacturing gold jewelry, Michael Meksian, along with his son Peter,
launched his own brand — Michael M. Collection — in 2008, specializing in high-end bridal and fashion jewelry.
“Each piece is handcrafted in the company’s Los Angeles workshop
Today, six years after its creation, the Michael M. Collection is an
using only the finest diamonds, platinum, and 18k white, rose, or yellow
internationally renowned diamond jewelry brand coveted by fashionable
gold,” explains Peter Meksian, the brand’s co-founder. During college, he
and sophisticated women everywhere. This appreciation extends to the
had worked at his father’s factory and knew that Michael’s magnificent
red carpet where Michael M. pieces can be seen on such celebrities as
artistry and unparalleled taste would provide the foundation for a collec-
Jennifer Lopez, Jennifer Hudson, Kelly Rowland, Catt Sadler, Miranda
tion of elegant and luxurious jewelry. Peter was right. With his vision and
Kerr, and Angela Kinsey, among many others.
his father’s world-class designs and craftsmanship, success was quick in
coming for the Meksians.
The handcrafted channel and U-set shank
with U-set diamond crown gives this
engagement ring and matching band from
the Europa collection an air of total luxury.
Available in platinum, 18k white, yellow and
rose gold.
Princess side bezels add hidden detail
to this ring in the Princesse collection,
featuring channel-set princess cut
diamonds and rows of pavé-set diamonds
adding sparkle to the sides of the ring.
Available in platinum, 18k white, yellow,
and rose gold.
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Petite bands of pavé-set diamonds
and delicate engraved details make a
statement in this ring from the Michael
M. Collection. Highly polished bands,
elegance, and sophisticated design
unite to create this distinctively beautiful
engagement ring. Available in platinum,
18k white, yellow and rose gold.
Taking inspiration from Mother Nature
and authentic European design,
styles range from traditional to modern,
from vintage-inspired to avant-garde.
From the Estrella collection, this
ring showcases a handcrafted
U-set and prong-set split shank
with diamond-tipped prongs.
Available in platinum, 18k white,
yellow and rose gold.
The focal point of each engagement ring is the timeless diamond
solitaire that blends with signature elements from the most popular
styles. Graceful curves and diamond accents punctuate the delicate
hand-engraved details on the brand’s rings, all characterized by their
femininity and dainty flourishes.
The hallmarks of a Michael M. ring are the regal European shank,
brilliant micro-pavé and unique U-setting, all of which translate into
more beauty and brilliance. Master artisans scoop the metal into a U
This Amore engagement ring features
a single string of channel-set
diamonds decorating the shoulders,
set in a highly polished band.
Available in platinum, 18k white,
yellow, and rose gold.
shape that embraces each individual diamond along the shoulders, allowing the diamond detail to be seen from every angle. The inside of the
U is polished to create a mirror-like finish. Exquisitely cut diamonds,
more light, a mirror finish and a higher ratio of diamonds-to-metal than
any other designer all ensure that each Michael M. design features less
metal, more diamonds, and more sparkle.
Among the brand’s popular engagement rings is the Strada collection. Available in a variety of cuts and designs, the name means road
in Italian, and features extraordinary channel-set diamond shanks that
suggest a journey on the road of life.
The Princesse collection was created specifically for the princess-cut
diamond, a square shape that sits like an inverted pyramid. Whether
flanked by cascading side stones or surrounded by dazzling micro-pavé,
the square has never seemed so progressive.
Featuring the designer’s signature micro-pavé diamond setting, rings
in the Amore collection are simple, elegant, and classic. The unparalleled brilliance highlights and enhances the choice of center stone.
This handcrafted U-set engagement
ring in the Vercelli collection
features pavé-set diamond details
on the prongs and undercarriage
of the ring for sparkle from every
angle. Available in platinum, 18k
white, yellow and rose gold.
In the Europa collection, the specialty U-setting places the center
stone on a regal crown, and elevates the setting to a proposal fit for a
queen. Inspired by classic European styling, these rings bring a touch
of refinement to fashion-forward design.
The Estrella collection burns brightly and warms the hearts of wearers everywhere. The finest diamonds, combined with meticulous European craftsmanship, along with intertwined bezel set, channel and pavé
diamonds create a magnificent piece of art to enjoy for a lifetime.
For the one-of-a-kind bride, the Vercelli collection exemplifies Michael M.’s couture artistry. Highly unique settings mingle with channel-set shanks to produce amazing results. It is perfect for the groom
who knows that an ordinary settling is simply not an option.
Rows of graduated diamonds in
the Strada collection form paths
along an elegant European-style
engagement ring, with diamond
details adding sparkle from every
angle. Available in platinum, 18k
white, yellow and rose gold.
Each Micheal M. piece is engraved with an individual ID number,
ensuring authenticity. Its lifetime warranty guarantees heirloom quality
jewelry that will sparkle with sophistication for generations to come.
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wedding planner
Your Orloff Jewelers
WEDDING PLANNER
Your wedding jewelry guide: engagement and wedding rings, wedding-day jewelry, gifts for your bridal party, and more
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wedding planner
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H E D D A
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ringing in the trends
Modern Designs
In the latter half of the 20th century, the Tiffany-style solitaire setting
became the standard for American engagement rings, and has remained
CARL K. GUMPERT 18KT
WG TT DIAMOND SEMI
MOUNT.
so until recently. It is still hugely popular, but more and more women
are entranced with vintage-style milgrain work, halo settings, cushion
cut diamonds, and micro-pavé (oddly enough, this vintage-inspired
MICHAEL M 18 KT WHITE
GOLD HALO DIAMOND
ENGAGEMENT RING 1.40
CTW G/VS.
trend was made possible only with the very modern development of
CAD-CAM technology).
The round brilliant still remains the numberone diamond shape, but more and more brides
are choosing cushion, Asscher, oval, princess,
radiant, and other special cuts.
MICHAEL M 18 KT WHITE
GOLD 0.56 CTW DIAMOND
ENGAGEMENT RING.
KWIAT 3.07 CT PLATINUM I / SI1
DIAMOND RING WITH 46 ROUND
BRILLIANT SIDE DIAMONDS = 0.25 TW.
Today the engagement ring that most couples want to buy is
the one that best reflects their personal, unique style. Personalization and customization are common — indeed, almost standard. Some couples still abide by the more traditional method
CONSINGMENT LADY’S PLATINUM AND
DIAMOND RING. CENTER (1) DIAMOND
CRISS-CUT 3.24CT. SIDES (2) DIAMOND
EMERALD CUT 1.54TW. GIA 12132297.
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of having the groom select a ring and present it to the bride,
but more often, the couple chooses it together.
THE KATE EFFECT:
PRECISION SET CUSHIONCUT SAPPHIRE IN A HALO OF
DIAMONDS.
CARL K. GUMPERT 14K WHITE
GOLD RING 1 OCTAGON-CUT
BLUE TOPAZ= 4.65CT 44
ROUND BRILLIANTS= 0.50CTW.
GABRIEL & CO.
Halos, Clusters, Celebrities, & Colors
The halo setting (a center stone surrounded by
a “halo” of smaller stones) is the biggest thing to
hit engagement ring design since the Tiffany setting. The halo adds visual interest to a single stone,
while incidentally making it look way bigger. It’s a
win-win all around.
So what’s next? Well, there’s a double halo, or
even a triple, but where to go from there? Some
fashion soothsayers predict the next big thing may
be a diamond cluster ring. Cluster styles are a great
option for the bride that wants a big look but has
a tight budget, says Amanda Gizzi, director of the
Jewelry Information Center in New York. The
diamond cluster ring has the same advantage as
a halo in making a big statement for less money
— sometimes far less — than a single stone would
cost for comparable size and quality. But rather
than the halo’s combination of a center stone
surrounded by many tiny diamonds, the cluster
uses multiple diamonds of the same size artfully
arranged in such a way as to give off maximum
sparkle. For example, Real Housewives of Atlanta
star Kandi Burress’s engagement ring looks like a
two-carat oval, but it’s actually a cluster of smaller
diamonds set in the shape of an oval.
Speaking of Burress, celebrity engagements are
one of the biggest influences on engagement ring
trends. While engagement ring designs do mirror
general jewelry style trends, the celebrity trend
emerged big in the 1960s with the public’s fascination over Elizabeth Taylor and her engagement
ring from Richard Burton.
Today, we know what a celebrity’s ring looks
like almost before her groom pops the question.
Recently, lots of them featured cushion cut center
stones — in a halo, of course. To wit: Tennis star
Ryan Sweeting proposed to The Big Bang Theory’s
Kaley Cuoco with a 2.30ct cushion cut halo set
engagement ring. Not to be outdone, Tim Witherspoon popped the question to former Destiny’s
Child singer Kelly Rowland with a 4ct cushion cut
in a halo setting and pavé band. Then rapper Big
Sean presented Glee star Naya Rivera with a 4-5ct
cushion cut in a platinum halo setting with pavé
band.
The cushion cut — so named for its softly
rounded corners that resemble a pillow — is the
third most popular style after round and princess
(square). Some diamond dealers even say it has
supplanted the princess as number two. The cut
dates back 200 years and was once considered
the cut of royalty. Today’s versions, however, use
modern cutting technology to imbue this vintage
style with renewed sparkle.
Other trending styles include floral designs,
east-west settings, colored gemstone centers,
mixed metals, and twisted bands. In an east-west
setting, an elongated stone such as an oval, radiant
cut, or marquise is set sideways across the finger,
as opposed to the traditional north-south direction
up and down the finger. This modern setting has
reignited the popularity of cuts like pears and marquise, which largely fell out of favor in the 1990s.
Color is a huge trend. Color has been big in
fashion, and the appeal crosses over into jewelry.
First, there’s the Kate Effect: Kate Middleton (aka
the Duchess of Cambridge) wears the sapphire
engagement ring belonging to the late Princess
Diana, Prince William’s mother, which has driven
acceptance of not only sapphires but also other
colored gemstones as a center stone. According
to Gizzi of the Jewelry Information Center, the
newest way to wear color is in the reverse: colored
gems flanking the center diamond.
Fancy color diamonds and mixed metals
are also trending. Whether platinum and
yellow gold, pink and white gold, or even
blackened metals for the hipster bride,
mixing metals adds a personal touch
to the standard engagement ring.
According to Severine Ferrari, editorin-chief of YourEngagement101.
com, “Yellow gold has made a big
comeback, as well as fancy yellow
diamond centers. Rose gold and
pink accents are very strong, too.”
MICHAEL M 18KT WHITE
GOLD HALO DIAMOND
ENGAGEMENT RING .82
CTW G/VS
CARL K. GUMPERT 14K
WHITE GOLD BAND 27
ROUND RUBIES=0.40CTW
108 ROUND
BRILLIANTS=0.40CTW.
CUSHION-CUT FANCY YELLOW
CENTER SURROUNDED BY A
HALO OF YELLOW DIAMONDS SET
IN PLATINUM AND 18K YELLOW
GOLD, BY RAHAMINOV.
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wedding planner
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H E D D A
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don’t forget the band
KWIAT PLATINUM ETERNITY
RING 0.37 CTW F-G/VS 44
ROUND BRILLIANT.
Wedding band trends
For many couples, the rush of excitement about getting engaged quickly morphs
into the hectic details of planning a wedding. So much so that the most lasting symbol of the marriage — the wedding band — is left as an afterthought. But wedding
bands, too, have their design trends. There is always the classic plain gold or platinum
band, but more and more couples view the wedding ring as a style statement as well as an
outward sign of their commitment, especially women who don’t wear their engagement rings.
Amanda Gizzi points to split-shank bands as a popular trend. This is a style that allows the
engagement ring to fit in the middle, but it can be worn alone, which looks like an open, airy
NAMDAR 14K ROSE
GOLD ROUND DIAMOND
ANNIVERSARY RING 0.52TW
design. Severine Ferrari says the leading trends for wedding rings are intricate designs for the
woman’s band, and black diamonds and texture for the men’s band. Alternative metals such
as tungsten and titanium are also popular for men’s bands, because of their modern high-tech
appeal and their relative indestructibility. But again, remember those Romans: no reason a guy
can’t also have two wedding bands: his gold or platinum ring for the ceremony and to wear for
dress, and the second contemporary metal band to wear for sports.
LUMINAR CREATIONS SAMPLE,
GP, CZ/PRICED @ 14K, A-1 QLY,
2.50CTW. GOLD/PLAT
And, of course, multiple bands give women fashion options.
“Stacking bands let women achieve a balanced aesthetic. One
band on top of the engagement ring balances the ring on the
bottom,” says Gizzi. “Some women continue to stack on
bands after the ‘I do.’”
KWIAT PLATINUM ETERNITY
RING PRINCESS CUT F-J/VS 25
PRINCESS DIAMONDS.
DANIELLA DESIGN PLATINUM
CUSHION DIAMOND ETERNITY
BAND 5.49 CTW 17 DIAMONDS I-J
COLOR VS+
BENCHMARK 14 YG 6 MM, SATIN
CENTER, HIGH POLISHED ROUND
EDGES, MILGRAIN.
BENCHMARK 14 WG 7.5MM ALL
SATIN FINISH WITH 20 2PT WHITE
DIAMONDS THAT GO HALF WAY
AROUND, .40CT TW.
BENCHMARK BLACKTITANIUM, 8MM, BLACK
CARBON-FIBER, HIGH
POLISHED BEVELED EDGES.
BENCHMARK COBALT
8MM WITH A LINK
PATTERN INLAY AND
BEVELED EDGE.
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BENCHMARK COBALT 8MM WITH
ROSEWOOD INLAY.
Fresno’s Premier Floral Provider
SPECIALIZING IN
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AND
EVENT PLANNING FOR ALL OCCASIONS
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wedding planner
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H E D D A
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more than just the ring
Bridal jewelry doesn’t end with the engagement ring or
wedding ring. There’s a wedding gown that needs the right
accessories, and what better choice than something the
bride (and her attendants) can really wear again?
CARL K. GUMPERT 14K WHITE
GOLD NECKLACE 15 ROUND
BRILLIANTS=0.45CTW
Wedding dress styles range from ornate to simple, but Amanda Gizzi, director of the Jewelry
Information Center, says texture is a top trend. Lace or bejeweled embellishments on the bodice of
the dress make earrings a wonderful way to pull the look together. We suggest diamond or pearl as
classic choices, and of course blue gemstones such as sapphire, aquamarine or blue topaz continue to
be a favorite for brides to incorporate her “something blue.”
Hair jewels such as brooches or hairpins are also of the moment. Fashion-forward
brides are also drawn to hand ornaments such as bracelet rings (a ring and bracelet
connected by a chain), says Gizzi.
Wedding day jewelry is a beautiful gift idea for the groom to give his bride,
or, as Kate Middleton’s parents did for her, the bride’s parents to give their
daughter. Long after the dress is boxed up and put away and the video is on
the shelf, the jewelry is something she can wear over and over and always
remember that special day.
KWIAT DIAMOND RIBBON
NECKLACE IN 18K WHITE
GOLD - 5.63 TW F-G / VS.
KWIAT 18KT WHITE GOLD BUBBLE DIAMOND
BRACELET FROM THE ECHO COLLECTION
2.08 CTW GH/VS2-SI1.
CARL K. GUMPERT 14K WHITE
GOLD EARRINGS 92 ROUND
BRILIIANTS=0.40CTW
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wedding planner
SINGLE ROW CUFF IN 18K
YELLOW GOLD FROM THE
VENETIAN QUATREFOIL
COLLECTION BY DAVID YURMAN.
Gifts for the bride, the groom, their parents, and the bridal party
Brides are ditching the matchy-matchy gifts and choosing personalized jewelry options, says Gizzi.
She suggests initial pendants or monogrammed necklaces. Another way brides are getting personal is by
selecting one gemstone or metal as a unifying theme, and then finding different jewelry styles to match each
bridesmaid’s personality.
For the mothers of the bride and groom, Gizzi suggests earrings.
“Necklines of the dress can vary, so a beautiful pair of small
drop earrings in diamonds or gemstones will draw the perfect
amount of attention to the face.”
For the best man and groomsmen, cuff links are a no-
PENDANT FROM THE KWIAT
SUNBURST COLLECTION HAS
0.40CT OF CLUSTER- AND HALOSET DIAMONDS IN 18K GOLD.
brainer. It’s also a great idea for a gift to the fathers of the
bride and groom. In keeping with today’s trend of personalization, choose either a playful style that represents your
bud’s or dad’s favorite hobby, or a classic monogrammed
style. Not French cuff kind of guys? Try a sterling silver business card case or flask. With artisan whiskeys and bourbons
trending, it’s an elegant and useful accessory.
Finally, the bride needs a gift for her groom. Cufflinks to
wear with his suit or tuxedo are his own special marker of
RAHAMINOV 18KT WHITE GOLD
DROP EARRINGS.
the day. This is also a prime time to choose
an heirloom timepiece that he will
wear every day, and can pass
along to children and even
grandchildren.
MEN’S DRESS SET BY
DAVID YURMAN
DAVID YURMAN’S CLASSIC CERAMIC
LADIES’ WATCH, FEATURING: 38MM
STAINLESS STEEL CASE WITH
INTEGRATED HIGH-TECH BLACK
CERAMIC CABLE; BLACK, DIAMOND-SET,
STAINLESS STEEL BEZEL; SAPPHIRE
CRYSTAL WITH DOUBLE-SIDED
ANTI-REFLECTIVE COATING; CERAMIC
CABOCHON CROWN; WATER RESISTANT
TO 100 FEET.
designer spotlight
b y
N A N C Y
BALL
the watch that rocks
back in black
The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Black relies on the intensity
of the monochromatic palette and luminescent numerals
and hands to define its character.
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The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Black — ideal for extreme sports or less
rigorous pursuits — is appropriately free of superfluous detail, relying on
the intensity of the monochromatic palette and luminescent numerals and
hands to define its character. It was created with famed rock climber Alex
Honnold in mind, and its impressive profile is heightened by the drama
of its all-black design.
Honnold, a native Californian, is the world record holder in free solo
climbing. He started climbing at the age of 11, and since the age of 19,
has devoted most of his waking hours to the sport. His precision and sense
of daring make him the perfect new addition to the Ball Explorers Club
as brand ambassador, and the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Black timepiece
is in turn the consummate companion for his ascents, with its rugged appearance, sturdy reliability and unqualified accuracy.
O L S O N
built to last
The Engineer Hydrocarbon Black is equipped with the
patented SpringLOCK® system exclusively developed by
Ball Watch. The device guarantees the movement’s accuracy by providing the balance spring with a real “cage” to
absorb the energy of external shocks to the watch. Such
shocks can cause a standard mechanical movement to lose
or gain up to 60 seconds per day. But the SpringLOCK®
system reduces impact by up to 66%, thereby safeguarding
the accuracy of the COSC-certified automatic ETA 2892A2 movement that powers the piece.
The first model in the Ball collection to use a DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coating on its titanium case, the 42mm
Engineer Hydrocarbon Black enjoys exceptional scratch resistance and increased durability. The patented crown protection, common to all models in the Engineer Hydrocarbon
collection, protects the movement — to which the crown is
directly connected — from the elements. The construction
of the watch also ensures protection against magnetic fields
up to 4,800 A/m and impacts of up to 5,000 Gs, and it also
offers water resistance up to 300 meters. A black rubber
strap further enhances the watch’s durability.
The green color of the micro-tubes
on the dial and the yellow hue on
the hands enhance readability
under all conditions. light up the night
In addition to the basic time display on the dial, the date
appears in a window at three o’clock enhanced by a Cyclops
magnifying lens fixed to the antireflective sapphire crystal.
Micro gas tubes containing luminescent 3H gas light up the
dial and hands, providing light intensity up to 100 times
more effective than conventional luminous paints. The
green color of the micro-tubes on the dial and the yellow
hue on the hands enhance readability under all conditions.
ball delivers time and again since 1981
In addition to Honnold, the Ball Explorers Club includes
such extreme sports greats as Guillaume Néry, world record
holder in free diving, John Hembel, former speed skiing
world champion, and Brian Binnie, who piloted the private
rocket ship SpaceShipOne to an altitude of 69.6 miles above
the earth. Club membership also comprises such humanitarians as Dr. Christopher Hillman, who travels the Himalayan
Mountains providing health care to people living in remote
areas and Dr. Geoff Tabin, co-founder of the Himalayan
Cataract Project. The characteristic these compelling people
share is a mission of excellence, founded on a desire to experience authenticity and fulfillment by exploring the world.
Ball Watch, with coinciding objectives, has been providing
timepieces since 1891 designed for “accuracy under adverse
conditions,” whether high above the Earth, on a challenging
rock wall or in the ocean’s depths.
Alex Honnold’s precision and sense
of daring make him the perfect
new addition to the Ball Explorers
Club as brand ambassador.
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women’s fashion
b y
L E S L I E
C .
S M I T H
neutral news
The 70s are back
with loose, flowing
tops paired with the
ubiquitous pajama
pant–a new celebrity
favorite. The simplicity of neutrals with
white can transition
an outfit from casual
to glam. A big contrast to the season’s
usual somber tones,
winter white has
emerged as one of the
important stories for
this season bringing
an understated sense
of luxe dressing into
play once again.
On this page
Model: Justine Bentley
Photographer: Michal Rzepecki
trend
the
The major trends of the season — menswear, layered knits, retro ’60s,
’70s and ’80s — are getting the biggest play in the fashion media, but
often style comes down to one or two pivotal pieces that can easily be
added to your existing wardrobe. Luckily, there’s a lot to choose from in
this season’s new looks and trends.
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sporty spice
If you hate the way winter forces you to cover up your gym-hardened body, you’ll love all the new designer takes on weatherproofed athletic
looks that you can take straight to the streets. Parka quilting and luxury fabrics have moved into elasticized sweatshirts and pants, oversized coats
and boxy tops that stress a strong upper body are color-blocked for even greater emphasis, and performance fabrics, such as nylon and neoprene,
can be found mixed with jersey and leather on everything from outerwear to day dresses. Rounding out the picture are leggings, a healthy slash of
neon every so often, and shoes and boots featuring prominently indented soles.
bag it up
Small clutches in croc-stamped leather and mid-to-long leather- or chain-strapped purses are definitely trending, but there’s still a market for
large, dual-handled “shopping” bags in either leather or carpet tapestry, or both. A handful of designers have upped the whimsical level by decorating these with colorful grocery brand logos. (Corn Flakes, anyone?)
boho to go
From tapestry on bags and dress inserts to embroidered or appliquéd embellishments on sheer tops and skirts; from hand-knit hats and sweaters
to sheaths in colorful rag-rug wools, the bohemian touch allows its wearers a heightened sense of individuality, as well as a glimpse of what life
was like before the fast lane was invented.
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women’s fashion
perfect pastels
Fall always features darkened neutrals, such as navy and charcoal, plus a plethora of such autumnal tones as acorn brown, olive green, and
pumpkin orange, and this year is no exception. Yet we also find a small but vocal cheerleading section for spring-like pastels, which means that
women who love baby pinks and blues, minty greens and soft lavenders, will not have to give these up until after next Lent. In the opposite camp,
though, stands flaming red, the hue most associated with firemen and passion. Pretty much every collection is ablaze with this shade, turning it
into the hottest color in town.
bed ready
There’s nothing more delicious on a cold winter’s morning than snuggling under a cozy blanket or trotting around in pajamas and a bathrobe.
Designers, it seems, couldn’t agree more, which is why all three of these items are currently on offer — in the form of dressy pajama-style tops
and bottoms, outdoor blanket wraps and ponchos, and shawl-lapeled robe coats with self ties at the waist.
knit necks
Turtlenecks dominate the sweater division this year. Whether a small mock, a mid-range fold-over, or a large funnel, this versatile knit can be
worn on its own, with a trousered suit, with jeans, or even with a full-length evening skirt. It can also form the foundation of a layered ensemble
comprising an assortment of clingy, elongated cards, pulls, and tunics.
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shear pleasure
The alternative to
the wealth of furs seen
on seasonal runways
is sheepskin shearling.
Cushy, comfortable,
warm as all get out, this
hairy hide provides us
with several outerwear
options. Coat hemlines
generally hit the hip or
the knee, with the plush
side either turned inward
as a lining or outward to
face the winter winds.
Reverse shearling also
shows up in waist-length
bomber jackets, and
broad shearling collars
have been added to many
woolen jackets.
O R L O F F
J E W E L E R S
M A G A Z I N E
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color trends
b y
C Y N T H I A
U N N I N A Y A R
IVAN GEMS 18KT WG
TANZANITE PENDANT
WITH DIAMONDS
TANZANITE 10.46 CT.
The Power of
Color
The colors we choose to surround
us play a major role in how we feel
Probably the most important way we reflect our individuality is by the clothes and jewelry we wear, and color is essential
to this process.
“Jewelry and color go hand-in-hand,” says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute, the world’s
foremost authority on color. “Color is intrinsically why people buy jewelry and their choices are largely emotional. People
choose a color because they respond to it.”
While the biggest trend in jewelry is color, it involves not just the traditional gems of ruby, emerald and sapphire. Today,
color comes from a wide variety of gemstones, including the large families of tourmaline, spinel, jade, garnet, and topaz, as
well as tanzanite, iolite, opal, peridot and morganite, plus the more affordable ”semi-precious” gems of the versatile quartz
family, such as amethyst, citrine, prasiolite and rock crystal. While the classic look of white diamonds may be “forever,”
colorful gemstone jewelry offers a different approach to style. These vibrant accessories can dress up or down a particular
outfit, depending on the mood of the wearer. They are fun and fanciful.
For fall 2014, Eiseman says we are seeing a season of untypical colors in fashion, colors that are “more reflective of imagination and ingenuity.” She adds that these colors and combinations are not bound by the usual hues for fall. “There is a
feminine mystique that is reflected throughout the palette, inspired by the increasing need for women everywhere to create
an individual imprint.”
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royal blue
Top Ten Colors for Fall 2014
In the Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2014, listing the ten
most prominent colors for the season, purple is the favorite,
with the captivating and intriguing Radiant Orchid, the Color
of the Year. At the other end of the violet spectrum is Mauve
Mist, a romantic and elegant purple shade reminiscent of
the deco era. Moving even warmer, the red shades are seen
in the exotic Sangria, which evokes a sense of glamorous
adventure and faraway destinations, and Aurora Red, a more
sophisticated shade that adds verve and spark. Either red can
be paired with Cypress, a powerful and majestic dark green
with a lofty presence.
As for the blues, Bright Cobalt, with a slightly greenish
undertone, offers a subtle twist on the traditional cobalt blue,
while Royal Blue provides more complexity and excitement than
the average navy, while still remaining versatile. Bright Cobalt
goes well with Sangria and Cypress, and Royal Blue is a natural with
Mauve Mist and Aluminum, a stainless steel shade that serves as a complex neutral. Autumnal colors include Cognac a cultured brown, making
the shade unexpectedly ideal for evening wear. Rounding out the top ten colors for Fall is Misted Yellow, which alludes to the promise of spring to come.
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ELOQUENCE 14KT WG 2.50TW DIAMOND BRACELET.
ELAN LUXURY COLLECTION 18KR BANGLE (91) PK SAP 5.91 CTTW.
Determining the Trends
When asked how the trends are determined, Eiseman explains that there
are two slightly different processes, depending on whether it is the Color of
the Year or Colors of the Season. “For the Color of the Year, such as Radiant
Orchid, we determine it well in advance of the year. We travel the world and
look for increased usage of a particular color or family, in all domains, including
films, technology and art. We also consider the overall mood of the nation and
the world. What color symbolizes this general mood? We then take all of these
clues and place them next to each other. If we see the same color in many areas,
then it becomes a candidate for Color of the Year.”
For the colors of the season, epitomized by Pantone’s designer sketches, Eise-
radiant orchid
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man explains that the process is more straightforward. “We ask designers
to submit illustrations of the colors they will use in the upcoming seasonal
shows along with their reasons and influences. We put this information into
a computer and look at the percentages of designers tending towards a particular color direction. Based on what the designers are actually using, we then
come up with our list of the top ten colors. This all happens approximately
six to eight months ahead of the seasonal fashion shows.”
How long do colors remain “trendy,” or “in?” Eiseman continues that
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TOURMALINE.
mauve mist
some examples of colors that came in and went out quickly were the yellow-greens and the oranges. “On the word-association surveys that we do,
the oranges and yellow-greens were way down at the bottom – people
did not respond well to them. There was a time when orange was all
about fast food. But there has been a big turnaround. Today, people
have seen what Hermès has done with orange, and it has become
aspirational. Even though you still see articles stating that trends
pass quickly, I don’t agree. There is evidence of this in fashion where designers continue to use yellow-greens and orange
even though Tangerine Tango was the Color of the Year three
years ago.”
The longer lifespan of colors in jewelry is certainly exemplified by the continuing popularity of pieces crafted
with beautiful orange gems such as fire opal, citrine and
topaz, as well as the enticing yellow green tones of peridot
and beryl. With colorful jewelry as an accent to fashion,
you are communicating both the power of color and the
power of your personality.
cypress
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AGS certified
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C A R O L
B E S L E R
The Ultimate
Jewelry Professional
What does it mean to be AGS-certified?
There are a handful of select jewelry stores in the U.S. who call themselves AGS retailers, holding one of the titles bestowed by the American
Gem Society. But what does it really mean? The short answer is that there
is a lot more to being an AGS dealer than simply paying a fee and belonging
to an association. AGS credentials must be earned and maintained.
The American Gem Society was founded in 1934 by a small group
of leading jewelers. Their goal was to create an organization that could
help protect the jewelry-buying public from fraud and false advertising.
That purpose was naturally extended to ongoing education, resulting
in the highest standard of knowledge in the industry. Today, approximately 3,400 jewelers, retailers, suppliers, individual titleholders and
affiliates have earned the right to join the American Gem Society by
dedicating themselves to consumer protection, ethical business practices and the development and maintenance of superior gemological
skills and knowledge.
Only 1 in 20 jewelers have met the exacting requirements necessary for
membership. To join AGS, every member must go through a peer-reviewed
application process, followed by an annual recertification exam. This process
ensures that every AGS member you meet is at the top of their game, and
more importantly, each one has pledged to protect the consumer.
The following titles are earned through the American Gem Society:
Registered Jeweler, RJ
To earn this title, a jeweler must truly understand jewelry, diamonds
and gemstones. To earn this title, the associate must complete extensive
coursework and classroom study, along with written and practical exams
in diamond grading.
Certified Gemologist, CG
A Certified Gemologist has taken advanced studies in diamonds and
colored gemstones. A CG also demonstrates mastery of diamond, gemstone, and precious metal testing procedures.
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KWIAT PLATINUM ROUND AND
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Certified Gemologist Appraiser, CGA
This title is the most highly regarded among peers in the jewelry industry. It certifies that the title holder can not only identify diamonds,
gemstones and jewelry but also determine their value. It requires advanced training and experience in determining the value of diamonds
and gemstones.
Independent Certified Gemologist Appraiser, ICGA
This title represents individuals whose sole business is appraising. He
or she does not purchase or sell diamonds, gemstones or jewelry. To
receive this certification, the appraiser must complete the requirements
for RJ, CG, and CGA, as well as an extensive course in personal property appraising. He or she must not only complete the annual recertification exam, but also submit proof of continuing education in their
field every five years.
Certified Sales Associate, CSA
A salesperson with this designation behind his or her name has passed
the Graduate Sales Associate course and the AGS Professional module.
This assures you that the salesperson is knowledgeable about the diamonds and gemstones they are selling.
Certified Jewelry Arts Professional, CJAP
This designation is for those members who have completed studies in
the art of jewelry repair and/or manufacturing.
© D.YURMAN 2014