SHORT HISTORY OF CLIMBING AT METEORA

HISTORY OF CLIMBING AT METEORA
Climbing on the Meteoritic rocks is a very old issue for our area.
In ancient times the inhabitants of ancient Aeginio found shelter in these rough rocks
(E.g., Agia) in order to be protected by the attacks of various bandits and pirates of
those times (proceedings of 1rst History Congress of Kalampaka).
Great Saint (Agia)
Later and especially in the 9th century A.D., many caves were used as
hermitages by the monks. Many of these caves could only be reached by means of
climbing.
Hermitage at Meteora
Athanasios Meteoritis , founder of the Transfiguration monastery together
with two monks and the help of a local man (probably shepherd) skilled in climbing,
who was also paid for his job, climbed up on a rock called “ The Flat rock” (Platis
Lithos) where the monastery is situated today ( Nun Theotechni – METEORA THE
ROCK FOREST
Among other things we discovered, we found information about people who
climbed these steep rocks, on routes which, even today, are considered difficult.
The one who climbed ALYSSOS rock for the first time did a difficult
“chimney” (V difficulty grade UIAA) at the North side of the rock, which even today
is considered one of the hardest climbing rocks.
Alyssos
In the 14th century A.D., the Serb czar Stefanos Dussan ordered his soldiers to
put a metal cross 1,80 X 0,80 cm at the top of the rock “Holly Ghost” ( Agio
Pnevma).
Holly Ghost’s cross
The ones who climbed to the top, did a difficult ascent (at least V+), without any
technical equipment. There is a possibility that the shape of the rock might have been
different, but even this doesn’t eliminate the danger of climbing.
The cross was taken down by a helicopter and is currently kept in Salaam monastery.
Other climbing examples are DOUPIANI, AG. TAXIARIES, tower of
METAMORPHOSIS (wood- chokes were found in crack of the rocks) etc.
Transfiguration Tower
(Metamorfosis)
The above information shows us that since ancient times local people,
shepherds and hunters have manage to climb very difficult rocks at Meteor, motivated
by their instincts or by financial reasons.
The story of St. George of the scarf’s “Mandilas”:
A Turk wends to a small forest, under St. George hermitage to cut wood.
While cutting it, a trunk fell over him and injured him seriously. When his wife found
him injured, she promised to offer her veil to the Saint as a gift, so that her husband
would recover. So it was done and the woman offered her veil to Saint George.
Every year since then, young men climb the steep route that leads to the ruined
hermitage, changing the old scarves, offered by local people, with new ones.
St. George of the scarf’s (Mandilas)
Similarly, at the “Holly Ghost” day, local young men change the scarf from
the half-top of the rock doing a IV difficulty trade climbing.
Holly Ghost
MODERN TIMES:
Until 1965, Kastraki commune was rending some rock tops to local people,
who used to take their herbs up to graze in the last pastures $that are there ( Sourloti,
Modi, Ambaria etc.).
Sourloti
Modi
During the German invasion, soldiers climbed on AGIA to place the German
flag. They probably climbed on “Kastraki tower” as well.
In April 1970, Berlin climbers Bodo Zoephel and Uwe Weinreich climbed up
the tower of NE “ Koumaria”, “Hawk Tower” and “Shoulder of Meteora”. They have
never come back to Meteora again.
In the summer of 1970, the already great climber- mountaineer Dietrich
Hasse together with his friend professional photographer- mountaineer Heinz Lottar
Stutte are fairly considered fathers of climbing at Meteora.
DIETRICH HASSE
HEINZ LOTTAR STUTE
As a climax to their climbing activity can be considered the ascent to the east
side of Alyssos and the opening of “Community Route” (VIA2) from 27 to 30 March
1978 by D.Hasse, S.Eichinger, H.Maegdefrau, and H.L.Stute.
Alyssos (Community route)
Alyssos was considered a rock myth for Kalampaka because of its shape and
despite there was an old monastery on the top, its conquest was considered great feat.
In 1977, Hasse & Stutte issued the first climbing guide and the climbers started to
appear.
Meanwhile, local young men came in touch with them and started the first
climbing routes. These were An. Tselios, Skarlatos Bros., and S. Athanasiou etc., who
together with the German speaking Aris Mitronatsios reached a very high climbing
level.
In 1979, an alpine club department called Kastraki Association of Greek mountaineers
was wt up, in co-operation with S.E.O. of Thessalonica.
During the ‘80s more and more Greeks and foreigners came to Meteora.
The tourist current of climbing at Meteora increased tremendously.
In 1985 the Meteora Climbing fun club was set up in Germany and Austria by
Hasse & Stutte. It provided safety bolts to anyone who wanted to open climbing
routes at Meteora, for a small contribution to the club.
In 1986 the 2nd Climbing guide was issued (the familiar blue booklet), a
complete book, a marvelous work done by Hasse & Stutte. In the same year, the 1rst
Pan- European Climbing Meeting was organized at Meteora, with the participation of
top contemporary climbers.
In 1989 Alpine Club of Kalampaka was set up. The club includes all local
climbers.
Throughout climbing schools, many young people learnt climbing and joined the
club. People who took part in these schools repeated difficult routes, opened new and
harder ones, climbed abroad in difficult fields, won in pan-Hellenic competitions and
took part in international competitions. (N GAZOS, THEODOROU BROS, G.
VAIOU, CH. BATALAOGIANNIS, V. BATSIOS etc.).
In 1993 the Committee of Mountaineering safety of the International
Mountaineering Association (UIAA) held a conference there. Every September since
1993 the pan-Hellenic Climbing meeting is organized at Meteora, after most Greek
Alpine clubs request.
In 1999, the 2nd European Climbing Meeting was organized there with great
success. In the same year the Youth committee of UIAA held a conference at
Meteora. In 1999 & 2000 the pan-Hellenic Bouldering games were organized in
Kalampaka. In almost all competitions & meetings A.C.K. undertakes all rescues,
annihilation of the high level of climbing.
In 2000, the 3rd climbing guide was issued by Hasse & Stutte, who handed
over the climbing field of Meteora to the youngest climbers of A.C.K.
A.C.K. has a Rescue team, which has been involved in many incidents
helping people in need. It also a team which maintains all old and wears safety bolts
so the field is always one of the safest fields worldwide.
The 100 towers and about 700 climbing routes create a feeling of fulfillment
to the visitor. Climbing is the only sport that supports the place financially.
Surveys show that 10000 people who stay overnight are climbers.
If we keep in mind that these people come with their families or friends then
we presume the number is bigger. We have not taken in consideration the hikers who
come to Meteora.
Climbers- visitors give life to the area and to small shops since they are not
orientated by tourist agencies. So, the financial benefit exceeds the 1.500.000 € a year
and makes climbing a financial power for the area. The number of the climbers is
increasing year by year.
All climbing schools have at least one weekend included in their timetable at
this peculiar field.
There are also many references of mountaineering magazines ( and not only)
for the good and detailed work that is being done in the area and the influence all over
the world is such that it sets as example to others.
NOTE: Climbers main commitment for Meteora:
We climb on all rocks apart from the ones, where there are inhabited
monasteries.
A commitment that is kept seriously by everyone.
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BIBLIOGRAPHY:
Nun Theotechni – “ Meteora the rock forest”
Stutte H.L. & Hasse D., “ Meteora – Guide International, Climbing and
Hiking II”
Stutte H.L. & Hasse D., “ Meteora – Guide International, Climbing and
Hiking III”
Stutte H.L. & Hasse D., “ Meteora – A landscape to be experienced”
Municipality of Kalampaka, Proceedings of the 1rst History Conference of
Kalampaka
Archive: LIOLIOS KOSTANDINOS