Bolivia Expedition EL 09 - Peak Mountain Guides LLC

BOLIVIA ALPINE CLIMBING EXPEDITION
EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING LIST
Peak Mountain
Guides
MAIL
PO Box 992
Ridgway, CO 81432
PHONE
970-318-1011
FAX
970-626-2013
EMAIL
[email protected]
The Cordillera Real, the most extensive of the four Bolivian ranges, and the
location of our alpine climbing expedition, is known throughout the climbing
world for its favorable climate for climbing and trekking. During the months of
June – September it is not unusual to experience weeks without precipitation
and rarely even a cloudy sky. Needless to say, this is one of the main attractions
of the range: world class climbing combined with reliable weather.
Despite such a good outlook, we’ll still need to be prepared for serious
mountain weather, which could arise at any time. The Cordillera Real is a high
altitude, glaciated, and remote range so any storm does have the potential to
test our equipment to the fullest. On this expedition we will experience a wide
range of temperatures and climates so the best equipment and clothing will be
versatile. In addition to being versatile, clothing should be light, warm, dry
quickly, and allow you freedom of movement. At Peak Mountain Guides, we find
a layering approach based on several thin layers of insulation rather than one
thick one, with a weather-proof outer shell, works best in changing conditions.
During the trek, temperatures typically range from lows around 25 at night to
highs from 45 – 75 during the day. Snow is possible, particularly as we cross a
high pass from the west side of the range to the east. After crossing the range
we will descend to lower elevations and a cloud forest ecosystem, where rain is
a possibility and high humidity the norm. During the climbing portion of the
expedition, temperatures will vary greatly from our basecamp to the summits.
Basecamp highs can be in the 40’s or 50’s during the day, and drop into the
teens at night. While climbing we could experience early morning temperatures
around 0 degrees, and afternoon temperatures in the forties. Fortunately, due
to the likelihood of good weather, we will do most of our climbing during
daylight hours when the temperatures are most comfortable.
Please note that llamas and burros will carry the bulk of our gear on the trek,
and on our hikes to basecamps. We will carry only daypacks with lunch and a
few supplies. Equipment not needed during the trek (crampons, ice axe, etc),
can be safely stored at our hotel in La Paz.
If you have any questions as you are selecting your equipment and clothing
please feel free to contact the Peak Mountain Guides office. We are familiar
with most of the products available and have tested many of them in adverse
mountain conditions.
CLOTHING
Climbing Boots – Plastic or leather boots that are insulated for temperatures as low
as 0 degrees Fahrenheit. Plastic boots have removable liners so they are easier to dry
than leather, and they tend to be warmer. Plastic models such as the Koflach Degre,
Vertical or Arctis Expedition, or the Lowa Civetta are good bets. If you choose leather
boots, please be sure they are designed for heavy mountaineering and are well broken in.
A good leather boot is the La Sportiva Nepal Evo or the Scarpa Freney XT.
Hiking Boots/Approach Shoes – For the trek and for approaches during
the climbing portion. These should be comfortable, lightweight, and supportive.
Walking Shoes – For use in town and around camp.
Gaiters – To keep snow and debris out of your boots. Outdoor Research
Crocodiles are a good model. If you are not confident in the warmth of your
boots or you tend to get cold toes, you might consider a “supergaiter” that
covers the entire boot.
Socks – Wool or synthetic (no cotton). Bring two or three pair. Some people
like to add a thin liner sock to reduce friction or to snug up loose fitting boots.
Shorts – Lightweight running style is best. May be worn on the trek.
Long Underwear Bottoms – Synthetic or wool is best.
Peak Mountain
Guides
MAIL
PO Box 992
Ridgway, CO 81432
PHONE
Climbing Pants - Water resistant/breathable softshell models made of Schoeller
fabrics (or similar) are very good for managing moisture while still shedding light
precipitation and wind. These softshell garments also offer very good freedom of
movement. Most of the climbing will be done in these pants. The Mammut Castor &
Champ Pants are good models.
Shell Pants – For rain, snow, wind, and extreme cold. Gore-tex or similar
waterproof/breathable fabric is recommended. They should have full zips so
they can be put on/taken off with boots and crampons on.
970-318-1011
Long Underwear Tops – Synthetic or wool is best.
FAX
Second Warm Top – Heavier weight fleece top or similar.
970-626-2013
EMAIL
[email protected]
Light Jacket – Fleece or schoeller jacket, insulated windshirt, etc.
Shell jacket – For rain, snow, and wind. Gore-tex or similar waterproof/
breathable fabric is recommended.
Insulated Jacket with Hood – Down or synthetic “puffy jacket”.
Light Gloves – A lightweight glove for temperatures around 32 degrees.
Most of the climbing will be done in these gloves. A “modular” design is best,
where the liners are removable for drying.
Heavy Gloves or Mittens – A super warm glove for climbing in the
predawn hours. Must be warm in temperatures around 0 degrees. A “modular”
design is best, where the liners are removable for drying.
Warm Hat – Synthetic or wool. Synthetic is usually most comfortable under
a helmet.
Sun Hat – Baseball cap or similar design to keep sun off the face.
Travel and Town Clothes – For walking around La Paz and dining in some
of the nice restaurants.
CLIMBING GEAR
Ice Axe – Designed for mountaineering with a classic pick. 60 – 70 cm in length.
Second Ice Tool – Designed for ice climbing with a reverse curve pick and a
supportive wrist leash. 45 – 55 cm in length.
Crampons – Semi-rigid models with horizontal front points work best. The
Grivel G-12 and Air-Tech are excellent all-around alpine climbing crampons.
Make sure you properly adjust your crampons to your boots before arriving in
Bolivia.
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Harness – A lightweight model with gear loops. The harness should fit over
your climbing clothing (adjustable leg loops help with this). Padding is okay but
not necessary.
Carabiners – Bring two locking and two non-locking.
Climbing Helmet – Must be CE certified and designed for technical
climbing.
Prusik Loops – 6mm cord tied in loops and used for crevasse rescue. If you
do not have pre-tied prusik loops, or if you would like to make a new pair for
this trip, please bring a 22 ft. piece of uncut 6mm nylon cord and we will help
you cut and tie them.
Peak Mountain
Guides
Trekking Pole (optional) – One adjustable trekking pole may be nice for
extra balance when climbing and hiking.
MAIL
MISCELLANEOUS
PO Box 992
Ridgway, CO 81432
Passport
PHONE
970-318-1011
FAX
970-626-2013
EMAIL
[email protected]
Money Belt – For secure storage of money, passport, ect.
Big Duffel Bag – Used for packing equipment on llamas and burros. Must be
large enough for all your gear and sturdy enough to withstand heavy use.
Gregory and Wild Things duffel bags are best. The Wild Things Mule Bag and
Burro Bag are favorites.
Second Duffel Bag – A smaller duffel used to store equipment at the hotel
in La Paz.
Small Padlock – Slips through the zippers of your duffel to secure the
contents.
Summit Pack – Used for summit attempts, day hiking, and around town.
1500 – 2000 cubic inches is a good size.
Four Season Tent - Designed for inclement weather and weighing no more
than 10 pounds. If you are planning to share your tent with a partner, a model
with two doors allows for better organization. Models made by Mountain
Hardwear, Marmot, and The North Face are good.
Sleeping Bag – Down or synthetic. Should keep you warm to 0 degrees
Fahrenheit.
Sleeping Pad – Full length closed cell foam pad. Ridge Rest or Z-Rest
models are good. You can bring an additional Thermarest if you would like.
Glacier Glasses – Must block at least 90% of visible light and have side
shields.
Extra Sunglasses – Can be a second pair of glacier glasses or a regular
plastic frame pair.
Mug – Plastic insulated model 12 -20 oz. capacity.
Spoon – Plastic camp spoon.
Butane Lighter
Water Bottles – Must have 2 liters of capacity total. Hydration bags are
fine, but bring at least 1 water bottle in case the hydration bag breaks.
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Water Purification – Bring a filter pump or 1 bottle of tablets such as
Potable Aqua.
Headlamp – With extra batteries and an extra bulb.
Pocket Knife – Leatherman or Swiss Army models are good.
Repair Kit – Needle and thread, duct tape, Thermarest repair kit (for a
variety of repairs, not just the thermarest), 15 feet of light cord, crampon
adjustment tools
Peak Mountain
Guides
MAIL
PO Box 992
Ridgway, CO 81432
PHONE
Garbage Bags – Two or Three large, plastic garbage bags. On a rainy day, you
can pack your gear in the garbage bags and then put them in your duffel. Keeps
everything dry.
Snack Foods – Bring along some of your favorites since we won’t have a
wide selection in Bolivia. Energy bars, energy gels, or dried fruit and nuts are
popular.
Sunscreen and Lip Balm – With an SPF of 30 or greater.
970-318-1011
Insect Repellent – For the trek portion.
FAX
Personal Toiletries – Bring a half roll of toilet paper for your use around
town. We will provide TP in the mountains. Also bring soap, antibacterial hand
gel, a small towel and any other personal items. If you wear glasses, bring a
second pair.
970-626-2013
EMAIL
[email protected]
Camera, battery charger, & extra memory card - Optional.
Basecamp Entertainment – Reading material, playing cards, iPod, ect.
Foam Ear Plugs
Personal Medical Kit –
Small bottle Tylenol, aspirin, or ibuprofen
10-20 assorted band-aids
(1) 1 ½ inch roll of cloth athletic tape
`
1-2 packages moleskin (minimum ½ square foot)
4 safety pins and an Ace bandage
Pepto-Bismol tablets
Cough drops
Antacid tablets
Suggested Prescription Drugs – Be sure to discuss the use and
precautions for each drug with your physician.
Lomotil – anti-diarrheal
Diamox – For prevention and treatment of AMS
Cipro (or other antibiotic depending on personal tolerance)
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