khajuraho and around

Khajuraho and around
Delhi to
KHAJURAHO
By Road:
654 kms
Khajuraho ¤ Rajgarh Palace ¤ Panna
Panna NP ¤ Ken Gharial WS
Ajaygarh Fort ¤ Chitrakoot
Khajuraho, known throughout the world for its spectacular temples,
is just an overnight train journey from Delhi, making for an excellent
weekend getaway. Close by is Panna with its numerous temples
and the famed diamond mines, as well as Panna National Park.
Ken Gharial Wildlife Sanctuary is also just an hour's drive away.
Khajuraho is strictly a winter destination, as the heat is unbearable
during the hot summer months. However as for the wildlife parks
and sanctuaries there is a greater likelihood of sighting animals
during the summer.
By Rail: Approx 10 hrs
by UP Sampark Kranti
By Air: 50 mins flying
Map not to scale
Suggested circuits
Delhi-Khajuraho
Delhi-Khajuraho-Panna
Delhi-Khajuraho-Panna NP
Delhi-Khajuraho-Ken Gharial WS
Delhi-Khajuraho-Ajaygarh
Delhi-Chitrakoot
time
Distances from
Khajuraho (in kms):
Rajgarh Palace
Panna
Panna NP
Ken Gharial WS
Ajaygarh
Chitrakoot
25
25
24
24
80
175
Khajuraho and Around
entranced by her beauty. The son born out
of their union was Chandravarman, who
founded the Chandella dynasty. He went on to
raise these temples that celebrated the union
of purush and prakriti, man and nature, as the
source of all life and creation.
The temples of Khajuraho mark the
culmination of the northern Indian or nagara
style of temples architecture. A typical
Khajuraho temple sits upon a lofty stone
terrace, over which rise the jangha or walls of
the inner compartments. The roof comprises
turrets of varying heights, culminating in
the tall and graceful curvilinear shikhara
suggesting rising mountain peaks.
The earliest temples of Khajuraho were built in
coarse granite. However, the Western Group
of temples are built in fine-grained buff, pink
and pale yellow sandstone, quarried from the
neighbouring town of Panna.
The sculptors of Khajuraho have shown
immense virtuosity in expressing the myriad
aspects of Indian life – with images of gods
and goddesses, guardians of the quarters,
sensuous and graceful apsaras (nymphs),
surasundaris (attendants of higher divinities),
salabhanjikas (tree nymphs) in infinite moods
and postures. Yet, it is the amorous couples of
Khajuraho that continue to enthrall visitors.
Sculptures adorn
every bit of the temple
walls in Khajuraho
Khajuraho
The world famous temples at Khajuraho, built
by the Chandella Rajput kings between 950
and 1050 AD, occupy a position of pride in
medieval Indian temple architecture. Tradition
talks about the existence of eighty-five
temples, of which only twenty-five survive
today. The extant temples of Khajuraho are in
three groups: Western, Eastern and Southern.
The magnificent temples of the Western Group
were accorded the World Heritage Site status
by UNESCO in 1986.
The name Khajuraho derives from the khajur
or date palm trees that once surrounded the
huge lake, Khajurvahaka Tal. Legend has it
that one sultry summer night, Hemvati, the
widowed daughter of a minister of the king
of Benaras, was bathing in the lake when the
Moon God, Chandrama, saw her and became
66
Western Group
The Western Group is enclosed within a
beautifully laid-out park and includes the
most acclaimed temples of Khajuraho.
Lakshmana Temple, closest to the
entrance of the complex, is the
earliest and best preserved
of the evolved temples of
Khajuraho.
Carved image
of nayak-nayika
BELOW: Lakshmana
Temple
ABOVE:
Timings:
6.30 am to 10.30 am
and 2.30 pm to 4 pm
(Oct to Feb)
6 am to 10 am and
3 pm to 6 pm (March
to Sept)
Entry Fee: Rs 10
(Indians and citizens
of SAARC countries);
Rs 200 (foreigners)
'The sculptural art of Khajuraho surpasses the
medieval school of Orissa in revealing the sensuous
charms of the human body. Inspired by an estatic joy
of living and a consuming passion for physical beauty,
the artists of Khajuraho revelled in admiring the
human body, displaying it from the most fascinating
angles - fine profiles, the unusual three-quarter
profiles and back-views.'
Krishna Deva, Temples of Khajuraho, Delhi, 1990
68
69
WEEKEND getaways in MADHYA PRADESH
Erotic Sculptures
Whatever the
interpretation of
the erotic scenes
sculpted on the
walls of the temples
at Khajuraho,
there is certainly
nothing sordid
or coarse about
them. In fact, these
representations have
given us some of
the finest sculptural
compositions, which
vibrate with a rare
sensitivity and
warmth of emotion.
FACING PAGE: Friezes
of exquisitely carved
sculptures from the
Jagdambi Temple
The cascading
shikharas of
Kandariya Mahadeva
Temple with Jagdambi
Temple in the
foreground
BELOW:
Khajuraho and Around
The platform of Lakshman Temple is
magnificent with mouldings and friezes,
depicting a moving pageant of hunting and
battle scenes, processions of elephants, horses
and soldiers as well as domestic and erotic
scenes. The temple has five subsidiary shrines,
of which four are placed at the corners of
the platform-terrace. The sanctum enshrines
a three-headed and four-armed Vishnu as
Vaikuntha; the central head is of a human while
those on either side are of a boar and a lion.
Vishvanath Temple to the northeast is another
beautiful temple built in the early 11th century.
The sanctum once enshrined two shivalingas,
one of emerald and the other of stone, but now
only the latter remains. Facing the temple is a
colossal Nandi bull while to the south-west is
a small Parvati Temple.
The grandest among the temples of the Western
Group is the Kandariya Mahadev Temple. Its
central tower or shikhara soars to a height of
30.5 m and is decorated with graded and
ascending series of 84 smaller replicas of
itself. Both the interior and the exterior walls
of the temple are exquisitely
carved with figures of gods
and goddesses, warriors and
musicians, hunters and mythical
animals, as well as the famed
images of sexual union that
have intrigued visitors through
the ages. The temple’s mature
plan and design, its stunning
sculptural embellishment and
architectural elaboration, all
mark it as the most evolved of
the Khajuraho temples.
The comparatively smaller but
older Jagdambi Temple shares
the same plinth as the Kandariya
Mahadev. Its square ceiling
is richly embellished and the
outside walls have fine figures of
gods and goddesses, surasundaris
and erotic couples.
Jagdambi Temple was originally
dedicated to Vishnu, as is
indicated by the Vishnu image
on the sanctum doorway.
In its plan and design, the
temple resembles the nearby
Chitragupta Temple.
North of Jagdambi Devi temple
is Chitragupta, the only temple
in Khajuraho dedicated to Surya,
the Sun God. It is indeed one of
the few shrines in north India
dedicated to Surya. An ornate
doorway leads to the sanctum
which enshrines a standing
image of the deity riding a
chariot of seven horses.
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WEEKEND getaways in MADHYA PRADESH
Lying on the fringe of
the Western Group is the
Matangeshvara Temple,
considered to be the holiest
temple here. Within the sanctum
is a stupendous polished linga,
about 2.4 m in height and 1m
in diameter. The temple is
illuminated and decorated with
flowers and sandalwood paste
on Mahashivratri.
View of the sanctum
in Matangeshvara
Temple, with its
massive linga
Apart from these major temples,
the Western Group includes
some smaller temples. The
Varaha Temple, dedicated to
the boar incarnation of Vishnu,
is a modest shrine built entirely of sandstone;
while the small Parvati Temple stands to the
south-west of Visvanath, with its sanctum
enshrining an image of Gauri, with the godha,
or iguana, as her divine vehicle.
Eastern and Southern Groups
Sculptures adorning
Vamana Temple
The Eastern Group scattered around Khajuraho
village includes the older Brahma Temple
standing on the banks of Ninora lake, with a
four-faced shivalinga that is commonly mistaken
for Brahma, the god with four faces. To its
northeast is the beautiful Vamana Temple,
dedicated to the dwarf incarnation of Vishnu.
Khajuraho
Khajuraho
and and
Around
Around
Two hundred metres south is
another Vishnu shrine, the
Javari Temple, with an ornate
gateway and a slender
shikhara.
The Eastern Group
also includes the four
Jain temples, Ghantai,
Adinath, Parshvanath and
Shantinath. The latter is the
only functional Jain shrine
in Khajuraho.
The Southern Group consists of Duladeo and
Chaturbhuj temples. Chaturbhuj Temple,
located to the south-west of the Jatkira village,
closely resembles Javari Temple, and houses
a huge image of the four-armed Vishnu.
According to art historian Krishna Deva,
signs of artistic decline can be seen in this
temple, and by the time Duladeo was built, the
architectural exuberance of Khajuraho became
lavish to the point of being over-ornamented.
In March 1999 Archaeological Survey of India
began excavations on a new site, known as
Bijamandal, pointing to a temple even larger
than Kandariya Mahadev, dating to
10th-11th century. The site is located 4 kms
south-east of the Western Group.
The week-long Khajuraho Festival of Dance
is held every year in February-March, and
is a good time to plan a visit to Khajuraho.
It draws some of the greatest exponents of
classical dance from across India. As dusk
falls, soft-focus light transforms the temple
area into an ethereal stage, on which is
celebrated the classical dance traditions
of India. The festival is a unique treat for
connoisseurs from across the world.
For details log on to www.mpculture.in.
ABOVE: Javari
Temple
The Archaeological
Museum, established
in 1910, exhibits
some of the most
outstanding objects
of Chandella art and
is well worth a visit.
Timings: 9am to 4pm
Entry fee: Rs 5
Tribal Folk Art
Museum makes for a
pleasant break from
the sensory overload
of the Khajuraho
temples. The small
museum houses a
good collection of
folk art from across
the state including
items of metalwork,
terracotta and
woodwork.
Timings: 9am to 4pm
Entry fee: Rs 10
(Indians) and Rs 50
(foreigners)
73
WEEKEND getaways in MADHYA PRADESH
A view of
Central courtyard in
Rajgarh Palace
ABOVE:
BELOW AND BOTTOM:
Swami Prannathji
Temple; Baldeoji
Temple
Rajgarh Palace
Panna National Park
From Khajuraho: 25 kms
From Khajuraho: 24 kms
Rajgarh Palace, built by
the king Shatrujit Bundela,
is situated at the foot of
Manjyagarh Hills, and is
built in the Bundela style of
architecture. There are plans
of converting the medieval
palace into a luxury heritage
hotel. The on-site museum
here has a interesting
collection of cultural artefacts.
Situated 24 kms from Khajuraho, Panna
National Park is located on the banks of river
Ken. The National Park with its deep gorges,
valleys, waterfalls and lush teak forests is
both mysterious and alluring, as only the
wild can be. Declared a Tiger Reserve under
Project Tiger in 1994, the park also abounds
in various species of fauna, especially the
mugger and gharial, two species of crocodile
found near the river. Other animals of note
include the wolf, sloth bear, spotted deer,
chinkara and nilgai. The park is also home to
around 200 species of birds.
Panna
From Khajuraho: 25 kms
The town of Panna rose to prominence under
Raja Chhatrasal Bundela (1649-1731) who
made it his capital. Chhatrasal, along with
Chhatrapati Shivaji and Guru Gobind Singh,
formed a trinity of rebels who rose against
Aurangzeb’s tyranny in the 18th century.
Legend has it that Swami Prannathji, founder
of the Pranami sect told Chhatrasal about the
abundance of diamonds in the
region and persuaded him to
make Panna his capital. The
region is famous for the only
operating diamond mines in
India, which stretch 80 kms
across Panna district.
Panna is also famous for its
innumerable temples devoted
to Lord Krishna. Jugal
Kishoreji is the main Hindu
temple in Panna and was
built in the Bundela style of
architecture. People believe
that the principal idol came
to Panna from Vrindavan via
Orchha.
Another important shrine,
the Baldeoji Temple was
built in Palladian style, under
the supervision of an Italian
architect, and is said to have
been styled after St Paul’s
Cathedral in London.
74
Khajuraho and Around
Panna National Park was the given the
illustrious 'Award of Excellence' by the
Ministry of Tourism in 2007, for being the best
maintained and tourist-friendly National Park
in India.
Green
bee-eater
BELOW: Jeep safari in
Panna National Park
ABOVE:
Timings:
Oct to Feb: 6.30 am to 10.30 am; 2.30 pm to 4 pm
Feb to June: 6 am to 10 am; 3 pm to 6 pm
(Closed July-September)
Charges:
Entry Fee: Rs 40 (Indians); Rs 500 (foreigners)
Safari charges: 1,000 (Indians); Rs 2,000 (foreigners)
Charges for still photography and videography extra
75
WEEKEND getaways in MADHYA PRADESH
Khajuraho and Around
Those who want to step off the beaten track
can opt for the thrill of a boat ride offered on
river Ken, for sighting muggers and gharials.
Though Panna NP is a designated Tiger
Reserve and these big cats remain the
principle draw for most visitors, you must
not be disappointed if you do not sight a
tiger. In addition to the dwindling tiger
population, the glorious big cats have their
own rhythms and routines which cannot
be predicted or determined. One should
visit the park to experience tranquility and
unbridled wilderness. The sounds, scents and
experiences of the wild should be a compelling
enough reason to visit the park.
Langurs on
tree-tops
BELOW:
76
However, for those who want to visit the park
for the sole purpose of viewing a tiger, the
best time is during peak summer, when the
water sources dry up and the tigers visit the
few water holes and rivers to quench their
thirst. Even so, one must remember that tiger
spotting is at times a mere stroke of luck.
From October to February, nature camps are
organised for school children by the Panna
Forest Reserve but they do accept a limited
number of adults as well. As a part of the
camp experience, one gets to spend an entire
day in the National Park, at a more leisurely
pace than during a safari. Contact the officials
at the Reserve at 07732-252135 for further
information.
ABOVE:
wild
A deer in the
The baya
weaver with its nest
BELOW:
Pandav Falls, a charming waterfall inside the
park is a popular tourist attraction. It gets
its name from the belief that the Pandava
brothers stayed here during their exile.
77
Khajuraho and Around
WEEKEND getaways in MADHYA PRADESH
Ken Gharial Wildlife
Sanctuary
From Khajuraho: 24 kms
Ken Gharial Wildlife Sanctuary, an hour's
drive from Khajuraho, is one of the few
sanctuaries in the country dedicated to
conservation of the endangered gharial.
The Indian gharial, with its distinctive long,
thin snout, is one of the world’s critically
endangered species.
Unlike its reptilian family of crocodiles, the
gharial survives on fish, and prefers to spend
time under water, only emerging to lay eggs
or bask in the sun for a while. Once found in
many rivers across the Indian subcontinent, it
has unfortunately fallen victim to poaching.
Timings:
Sunrise to sunset
(Closed July-Sept)
Charges:
Entry Fee: Rs 105
Vehicle charges:
Rs 140
Guides: Rs 25
Charges for still
photography and
videography extra
The picturesque
Raneh Falls within the
sanctuary
78
The sanctuary is spread over 45 sq kms, with
the Ken river flowing through dense and
beautiful forests of teak, sal and mahua trees.
The best places to see the adult gharials in the
sanctuary is at the beautiful Raneh Falls.
A boat ride over the river at this immensely
popular tourist spot is highly recommended.
Though there are numerous waterfalls in the
sanctuary during monsoons, only Raneh Falls
is perennial.
A day-trip to Ken Gharial Sanctuary, can be
easily done from Khajuraho, 24 kms away.
One can also drive down from Panna National
Park, which borders the north of the sanctuary.
Ajaygarh Fort
From Khajuraho: 24 kms
Ajaygarh Fort, built by the
Chandellas, stands on a high
plateau and is surrounded by
dense forests. For those who climb
the 250-m high fort, the effort is
well-rewarded for the wonderful
views of the countryside one gets
from here. The large stone steps
leading to the fort were constructed to aid
elephants during their ascent.
There are ruins of several temples, palaces and
tanks within the fort premises. An old stone
quarry nearby is said to have provided the
stone for the temples of Khajuraho. Close by, in
neighbouring Uttar Pradesh, is Kalinjar Fort,
another Chandella outpost.
Ruins of one of the
four extant temples
within Ajaygarh Fort
Chitrakoot
From Khajuraho (via Ajaygarh): 147 kms
Chitrakoot is on the border of Madhya
Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh. It is best known
as a holy town, as it was here that Ram, Sita
and Lakshman spent the better part of their
14-year exile. Consequently, Chitrakoot has
innumerable temples dedicated to Ram and
Sita. With its green forests, gentle rivers and
welcoming peace and serenity, Chitrakoot
makes for a great weekend.
A view of Ramghat
along the banks of the
Mandakini river
79
Khajuraho and
Where
toAround
Stay
WEEKEND getaways in MADHYA PRADESH
Hotel Green House
Opposite Bus Stand
Ph 274221, 274196
Email info@
greenhousekhajuraho.
com
Hotel Marble Palace
Near the Western Group
Ph 274353
Email palacemarble@
hotmail.com
Lalit Temple View, Khajuraho
Khajuraho
(STD: 07686)
Ramghat illuminated
at night, reflected
in the waters of
Mandakini, presents
an awesome spectacle
Visitors should note
that in addition to
being a vegetarian
town, Chitrakoot is
also strictly ‘dry’ and
alcohol is neither
served nor sold here.
Tourists making their
way through GuptGodavari
80
A visit to the Ramghat is essential for any
visitor to Chitrakoot. Here, with the rising sun,
the devout take a dip in the calm waters of
Mandakini. The steps above the ghat lead to the
Matha Gajendranath Shiva Temple, where,
according to legends, Brahma performed
penance and offered a shivalinga, which became
the kshetrapal or protector of the area.
Around five kilometres from Ramghat, up a
wooded hill, is a white fortress-shrine called
Hanuman Dhara, dedicated to a panchmukhi
or five-faced idol of Hanuman. Another
significant landmark is Kamadgiri, or the hill
that fulfills all desires. Bharat Milap Temple
marks the spot where Ram’s younger brother
Bharat, met Ram and tried to convince him to
return to Ayodhya.
A short boat-ride from Ramghat leads to
Janaki Kund, where Sita is said to have
bathed. Just beyond is a boulder
called Sphatik Shila, which has
an impression of a footprint,
believed to belong to Ram.
About 11 kms from Chitrakoot,
on the Karvi-Devangana road,
lies Ganeshbagh, the former
summer retreat of Peshwa
Vinayak Rao. The complex
includes a richly-carved temple, a
seven-storeyed baoli and the ruins
of a palace. Some 12 kms from
Chitrakoot is the Gupt-Godavari,
which comprises two caves. In
one of the caves, two naturallyformed throne-like rocks have
prompted the belief that Ram and
Lakshman held court here.
Lalit Temple View
Opposite Circuit House
Ph 272111/ 272333
Email khajuraho@
thelalit.com
Hotel Taj Chandela
Airport Road
Ph 272355
Email chandela.
khajuraho@tajhotels.
com
Radisson Hotel
By-pass Road
Ph 272777
Email reservations@
radissonkhajuraho.com
Jass Trident
By-pass Road
Ph 272344, 272376,
272377
Hotel Harmony
Jain Temple Road
Ph 9893725964
Hotel Clarks
Ph 274038, 274056
Email clarkhjr@
sancharnet.in
Hotel Usha Bundela
Temple Road
Ph 272386/87
Email reservations@
ushalexushotels.com
Hotel Harmony
Temple Road
Ph 274135
Hotel Surya
Temple Road
Ph 274145, 274143
Email reservation@
hotelsuryakhajuraho.
com
Hotel Payal (MPSTDC)
Ph 274064 / 274076
Email payal@mptourism.
com
Hotel Jhankar (MPSTDC)
Ph 274063 / 274194
Email jhankar@
mptourism.com
Tourist Village (MPSTDC)
Ph 274062
Ph tvkhj@mptourism.
com
Zen Hotel
Temple Road
Ph 274228
Email
hotelzenkhajuraho@
yahoo.in
Hotel Siddharth
Near the Western Group
Ph 274627
Hotel Lakeside
Opp Shivsagar Lake
Ph 274120
Panna National Park
Jewel of the Jungle
Madla Gate
Ph 9425420701
Pashan Garh
(Taj Hotels)
Ph 1800-111-825,
022-66011825
Jungle Camp (MPSTDC)
Ph 07732-275275
Ken River Lodge
Ph 0124- 4222657/58
Sarai at Toria
Ph 0124-2356004/
4062480
Panna Tiger Resort
Ph 07732-275248
Chitrakoot
(STD: 07670)
Tourist Bungalow
(MPSTDC)
Near Ramghat
Ph 265326/26537
Pitra Smiviti Vishramgrah
Opposite Bada Math
Hotel Ramada
Airport Road
Ph 272302
Email reservations@
ramadakhajuraho.com
Eurostar Inn
Airport Road
Ph 274341
Taj Chandella, Khajuraho
81