Moel y Gest topo.CDR - North Wales Bouldering

Moel y Gest Quarry
The dolerite quarry on the north side of Moel y Gest
provides a good selection of intense problems. The
landings are variable; take plenty of pads and spotters.
Access restriction: There is a voluntary bird ban running
from March 1st to June 15th. Please respect this and avoid
disturbing any birds throughout the rest of the year.
Conditions: The shady aspect makes this a good summer
venue.
Approach: Situated close to Porthmadog on the opposite
side of the valley to Craig y Castell the crag is clearly seen.
To reach it, park at a small layby close to a petrol garage
on the Porthmadog Criccieth road. A track leads up from
the layby and turns into an old quarry on the left. Ignore
this and continue rightwards on the path, crossing a stile,
then following the path steeply up through the trees and
out onto the broad ridge leading up to the summit of the
hill. 100m after exiting the woodland turn right off the
main path and follow a smaller, less defined path,
contouring across the hillside, to reach the top left corner
of the quarry. Scramble down the rough path on the edge
of the quarry to arrive in its bottom left corner. A path
leads across the base of the quarry, past a bay with two
old winding houses to a final bay with some very large
blocks situated in front of the quarry face. The first
problem lies on the right side of the nearest large block.
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5. Pinch Arete V4/Font 6B *
Obvious sds arête line. [Dave Noden 06.09]
6. Madog V3/Font 6A *
Reachy, groove slab thing. [Dave Noden 06.09]
7. Dead Man's Curve V7/Font 7A+ ***
Slopey arête, starting matched on large jug.
[Dave Noden 06.09]
1. Room for Glue V6/Font 7A
Obvious sds line. [Dave Noden 06.09]
2. Beatitude Kiss V11/Font 8A ***
The steep groove feature provides a stunning problem.
Start sitting, right hand: back hand hold, left hand: slopey
pinch. Finish rightwards at the top. [Dave Noden 06.09]
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8. V3/Font 6A *
Sds on good side pull and crimp. Mantel over onto slab.
[Dave Noden 06.09]
9. V3/Font 6A
Sds on left and follow slopes rightwards; mantel out at jug.
[Chris Davies, 06.09]
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3. The Sea of Blocks V3/Font 6A **
Pull on with obvious 'cup' hold, head up leftwards, past
slopers to better holds. [Dave Noden 06.09]
A good warm up is the obvious slopey lip traverse from
the start of The Sea of Blocks into Pinch Arete.
4. Drag Racer V11/Font 8A *
Sds from a folded mat; right hand: spike crimp thing, left
hand: low slopey edge. Pop for the lip of the roof and
finish rightwards up Pinch Arete. [Chris Davies, 06.09]
© Ground Up Productions Ltd
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Dave Noden on
Beatitude Kiss
V11/Font 8A,
photo: Si Panton
Two large blocks abut the crag. The next problem lies in
the corridor between the two, on the slabby wall on the
right hand block.
10. V1/Font 5 *
Sds on side pull bale up slab on crimpy line.
[Dave Noden 06.09]
11. Pinball Wizard V6/Font 7A! ***
Brilliant, albeit scary problem up vague groove feature.
Reachy crux at two-thirds height. Get a spotter, or two!
[Dave Noden 06.09]
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12. The Seven Pillars V7/Font 7A+ **
Steep arête line yields a fine problem. Pull on with a pinch
on the arête and a side pull on the steep face. A lower
V8/7B+ sds is possible: sit on the block and pull on with a
pinch and low crimp, with a heel on the low jug.
[Dave Noden 06.09]
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At the far side of the quarry there is a steep, high wall:
15. Chummer's Wall V6/7/Font 7A/+ ***
The only line so far lies left of centre and finishes with a
memorable move to gain an obvious high jug. Jump
dismount and be thankful of the flat and soft landing. A
future classic. [Jon Ratcliffe 06.09]
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13. Cruiser Weight V9/Font 7C ***
The undercut rib is superb. Start hanging the flatty ledge
on the left and climb rightwards into the rib. A harder
(V10/7C+) sds on the obvious side pull has been done.
[Dave Noden 06.09]
14. V3/Font 6A
Start hanging the flatty ledge and exit up leftwards.
[Dave Noden 06.09]
14. V4/Font 6B
Sds up wall left of Cruiser Weight.
[Jon Ratcliffe 06.09]
© Ground Up Productions Ltd
Duck under the cave to reach around the back:
Dave Noden on Chummer’s Wall V6/7/Font 7A/+
Photo: Si Panton