Classic Inst. Manual 2004

Transcription

Classic Instruments, Inc.
INSTRUMENT MANUAL
For Classic Instruments and Sending Units
❏ Instrument Adjustment
❏ Troubleshooting Guide
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page
Adjustment and Troubleshooting
Speedometers ........................................................................................29
Volt Gauge (Battery Voltage) ................................................................33
Fuel Tank Sender ..................................................................................31
Tachometer ............................................................................................30
Temperature ..........................................................................................32
Clock ............................................................................................................15
Converter Box Diagram SN 75....................................................................14
Dual Cluster 3-3/4 ........................................................................................10
Fuel Gauge ....................................................................................................7
Fuel Tank Sender Deluxe 33, SN 33............................................................20
Fuel Tank Sender SN 35 ..............................................................................18
Fuel Tank Sender SN 36, 38 & 39 ..............................................................24
Oil Pressure Gauge ........................................................................................7
Pressure Sender ..............................................................................................2
Quad Cluster 5 inch ....................................................................................12
Sender unit, Installation ................................................................................1
Speedometer Adjustment ..............................................................................4
Speedometer Sensor ......................................................................................2
Speedometer 5 inch ......................................................................................11
Tachometer ....................................................................................................6
Tachometer 5 inch ........................................................................................13
Tachometer MSD-6A ignition systems........................................................26
Temperature Sender........................................................................................1
Transmission
Fluid Leaking ..........................................................................................2
Volt Gauge......................................................................................................8
Warranty..........................................................................................................i
Water Temperature Gauge ..............................................................................7
Wiring
Speedometer............................................................................................3
Diagram ................................................................................................16
© 2004 Classic Instrument, Inc.
LIMITED WARRANTY
Classic Instruments, Inc. (CI) warrants to the original consumer purchaser that
any CI product manufactured or supplied by CI will be free from defects in material
and workmanship under normal use and service for a period of Five (5) years from
date of purchase.
Improper Installation, use of sender units other than CI’s or attempted repair or
adjustments by other than CI shall void this warranty. Disassembly of any instruments or senders for whatever reason shall specifically void this warranty.
A part found to be damaged or malfunctioning due to an excess voltage surge
shall be considered as resulting from improper installation and not covered under
warranty.
Purchaser requesting a product to be repaired or replaced under warranty must
first call Classic Instruments at 1-800-575-0461 before the return of the defective
part. Send defective part either to 1299 M-75 South, through UPS, or to P.O. Box 411
through U.S. Mail, Boyne City, MI 49712, USA. Along with a written description of
the failure.
Purchaser agrees and accepts that under no circumstance will a warranty replacement be furnished until CI has first received, inspected, and tested the returned part.
All other warranties express or implied are hereby excluded including any
implied warranty or merchantability and implied warranty of fitness for a particular
purpose. The sole and exclusive remedy for breach of this warranty is limited to the
replacement set forth above.
It is expressly agreed that there shall be no further remedy for consequetional or
other type of damage, including any claim for loss of profit, engine damage or injury.
1
Welcome to the Team of Classic Instruments!
Our congratulations and appreciation for your purchase of one of the finest quality sets of specialty instruments ever produced! Your instrument set has been conceived, designed and manufactured by Classic Instruments, Inc. in the U.S.A. Each
instrument has been tested and certified for accuracy and quality before packaging
and shipping.
For trouble-free installation and operation follow the instructions exactly as outlined. Your instruments were assembled to precise specifications and although each
has a five (5) year warranty covering defective parts or workmanship - this warranty
will not cover instruments or sender units which have been installed incorrectly.
Follow our recommended procedures for installation and proper hookup to maintain the value and appearance of your instrument set during many future years of
accurate and dependable service!
WIRING YOUR INSTRUMENTS
Disconnect Your Battery
Follow your instructions to guarantee trouble-free installation and correct operation!
Our installation instructions and procedures should take priority over instructions
furnished by any other manufacturers of ignition systems, wiring harnesses, gauges,
etc.
2
(Same verbage as page 23 except for setting 1-3-4-5 instead use _______???????)
ADJUSTING YOUR ELECRONIC SPEEDOMETER
16 GUAGE
To adjust your programmable speedometer for your own combination of tire and rim
size, rear end gearing, inflation pressure, etc.
a simple road test to determine the exact
error in your present speed-reading must be
made.
STEP 1: To check your speedometer reading follow and pace another car (with an
accurate speedometer) traveling at exactly 60
MpH true road speed.
IMPORTANT: Be certain the eight-rocker adjustment switches on the back of the
speedometer case are set to the correct factory setting of 1-3-4-5 to the ON position
(switches numbered 1-3-4-5 should be
tipped inward at the top).All other switches must be OFF (tipped in at the bottom).
STEP 2: Now determine the speed-reading
of your Classic speedometer when you are
moving exactly 60 MpH road speed!
STEP 3: Refer to the chart below and find
the MpH reading your speedometer was
showing when you were pacing the car with
the accurate speedometer at a true 60 MpH
road speed.
STEP 4: Find the switch numbers (second
column) opposite the speedometer reading
from our speed test. A number indicates that
switch must be turned ON (that is, pushed in
at the top).
STEP 5: An asterisk (*) substituting for a
number (1 to 8-Left to Right) indicates that
particular switch number must be turned
OFF (that is, tipped in at the bottom) to correctly reprogram your speedometer.
24
If Speedo reads
41 MpH
42 MpH
43 MpH
44 MpH
45 MpH
46 MpH
47 MpH
48 MpH
49 MpH
50 MpH
51 MpH
52 MpH
53 MpH
54 MpH
55 MpH
56 MpH
57 MpH
58 MpH
59 MpH
60 MpH
61 MpH
62 MpH
63 MpH
64 MpH
65 MpH
66 MpH
67 MpH
68 MpH
69 MpH
70 MpH
71 MpH
72 MpH
73 MpH
74 MpH
75 MpH
76MpH
77 MpH
78 MpH
79 MpH
Same as
66 Kilo
68 Kilo
69Kilo
71 Kilo
72 Kilo
74 Kilo
76 Kilo
77 Kilo
79 Kilo
80 Kilo
82 Kilo
84 Kilo
85 Kilo
87 Kilo
89 Kilo
90 Kilo
92 Kilo
93 Kilo
95 Kilo
97 Kilo
98 Kilo
100 Kilo
101 Kilo
103 Kilo
105 Kilo
106 Kilo
108 Kilo
109 Kilo
111 Kilo
113 Kilo
114 Kilo
116 Kilo
117 Kilo
119 Kilo
121 Kilo
122 Kilo
123 Kilo
1253 Kilo
Set switches open
7, 10, 12
7, 8
7, 8, 9,11
6, 10, 12
6, 8
6, 8, 9, 11
6, 7, 10, 12
6, 7, 8
6, 7, 8, 9,11, 12
5, 10, 12
5, 8
5, 8, 9, 110, 12
5, 7, 10, 12
5, 7, 8
5, 7, 8, 9, 110, 12
5, 6, 10, 12
5, 6, 8
5, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12
5, 6, 7, 10, 12
Do not do anything, ,you are good to go.
4, 10, 12
4, 8
4, 8, 9, 11, 12
4, 7, 10, 12
4, 7, 8
4, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12
4, 6, 10, 12
4, 6, 8
4, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12
4, 6, 7, 10, 12
4, 6, 7, 8
4, 6, 7, 8, 10, 12
4, 5, 10, 11
4, 5, 8
4, 5, 8, 9, 11, 12
4, 5, 7, 10, 11
4, 5, 7, 8
4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12
4, 5, 6, 10, 11
INSTALLING AND ADJUSTING THE
GEAR SELECTOR SENSOR BOX
SN45
Gm-Turbo 350/400 and 700R-Type Installations
WHITE Wire
BROWN Wire
12+ VOLTS
IMPORTANT
To “S” on gauge
To “G” on gauge
To “I” on gauge
Extend another wire from “G”
on guage to a chassis ground.
Pointer may read “slightly” different “up-shifting” compared to “down-shifting”
(refer to dial-face illustrations). This is normal and is not a defect. Instrument may
also read differently during actual driving than during testing in garage or driveway
- Instrument and sender movements are designed to operate within closer tolerances
while subjected to vibrations and road movements - as during normal driving.
3
FORD C4 TRANSMISSION-TYPE INSTALLATIONS
WHITE Wire
BROWN Wire
12+ VOLTS
IMPORTANT
To “S” on gauge
To “G” on gauge
To “I” on gauge
Extend another wire from “G”
on guage to a chassis ground.
IMPORTANT NOTES - ALL APPLICATIONS:
Sensor box should be mounted to allow cable to pull in as straight a
line as possible (and at a 90 degree angle to the sensor shifter bracket).
Cable should be taunt with no sag but fully into sensor box when transmission is in the park position. Cable is in “park” position when sensor box is
shipped from factory.
If you are having difficulty adjusting tension of the cable and the gauge
does not respond properly in different positions - adjust tension (or sensor
box mounting position) with transmission in drive until the instrument
pointer aligns with the “D” on the dial-face.
Instrument should be positioned on dash so pointer and dial-face
can be viewed “head-on” to avoid any parallax distortion or incorrect gear
reading.
4
TEMPERATURE SENDER
(Part No. SN 22, 23, 24 & 25)
1.) Disconnect battery before making any connections.
2.) Install the sending units provided with your set only when the engine is cold!
Install our sender in the intake manifold near the thermostat housing. Locate a pipethread opening in the manifold that has threads to match the sender. Be certain the internal threads are clean and free of obstructions before installing the sender.
DO NOT use teflon sealing tape or gasket cement on the threads. These materials
only interfere with proper electrical contacts and the heat dispersion your Classic sender
is designed to operate with. The sender threads are tapered and self-sealing. The sender
should be tightened only enough to prevent coolant leaking. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!
WARNING! Avoid installing our temperature senders into the head of a late-model
GMC engine - even though the stock GMC sender may have been installed there! This
opening is too close to the exhaust header and will probably cause an over-heating indication on the gauge.
This can occur whenever airflow in the engine compartment slows - such as at a stop
street or in city traffic. A reading from 20 - 40 degrees over the “correct” temperature
can easily show on the dial-face.
12 mm TEMPERATURE SENDER
(Part No. SN12-M)
12 mm TEMPERATURE
Sending Unit Installation
(LSI Motor)
3. Remove the 12MM plug, with 8 MM
torx, at the rear of the passenger side
head, behind the rear spark plug.
4. You will reuse the copper washer from
the plug that you have removed.
5. Slide copper washer onto Classic
Instruments’ 12 MM sending unit.
6. DO NOT USE Teflon tape on the 12
MM sender prior to installation.
7. Install temp sender with a 3/4” deep
socket, use 20 ft. lbs. of torque making sure to not over tighten.
5
Temperatue Trouble Shooting
INSTRUMENT SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE CAUSE
RECOMMENDED CURE
Pointer climbs slowly to 175 F;
falls backwards to 160 F; climbs
slowly to 185 F; falls backwards
to 175 F; climbs slowly to 195 F;
etc. when engine is first warming
up.
Normal. sender is only reacting to
opening and closing of thermostat
and coolant flow in an engine
beginning to warm up to the normal operating temperature.
No cure required. Read your
instrument and how the coolant
system operates in normal abnormal situations.
Pointer jumps quickly from resting (key off) position to fullscale-right each time key switch
is turned on-even if engine cold.
No other reading will show on
dial.
Wire from sender to “S” on gauge
shorted out;
OR
Ground missing between instrument and sender;
OR
Poor ground between the engine
and firewall.
Disconnect wire from temperature
sender and “S” post of instrument.
Run “jumper” between sender and
gauge. If pointer reads correct
rewire the sender to gauge wiring
circuit.
Instrument reads “normal” until
engine warms up; then continues
to climb past “normal” (185-200
F)” to 240-270 F but coolant not
boiling, “spouting”.
Sender not installed per instructions. Teflon tape or gasket
cement used or sender installed in
side of block; over-torqued &
stressing sender body.
Read instruction and re-install in
intake manifold without sealant of
any kind! DO NOT install sender
in side of GMC block!
Instrument reads “normal” at
highway speeds; moves to hot or
very hot as vehicle slows or
stops. Requires long time before
dropping to “normal range”.
Sender installed in wrong location, such as side of GMC block,
is “soaking up” exhaust header,
engine block heat whenever air
flow in engine compartment is
reduced (if car slows).
Relocate sender to intake manifold near thermostat housing. DO
NOT install in the side of a GM
block, EVEN if stock GM unit
was installed there.
These symptoms are common in many coolant systems and many result from problems other than outlined
above. The following should be checked carefully at any time an abnormal heating or cooling situation occurs.
1. Slipping belt or incorrect pulley.
2. Incorrect thermostat for system.
3. Distributor spark advance too far.
4. Wrong coolant/anti-freeze mix.
5. Cross-inductance in wiring harness.
6. High volume water pump installed when not required by total system.
7. Thermostat removed to increase coolant flow, reduce overheating!
8. Insufficient radiator capacity for size of engine and horsepower.
9. Intake manifold has been painted, polished, chrome plated (but not by mfg.).
10. Sender installed too deep and sensor tip touching other side of passageway.
11. Sender not threaded far enough into manifold; too many threads exposed to allow
good “heat-sink” effect from sender body.
Our temperature senders will always read the hotter of two adjacent temperatures. Therefore if your
sender is installed in a hot spot on the engine (such as next to the exhaust pipes on the side of the engine block)
do not be surprised when the temp gauge reads 250 degrees and the radiator seems only mildly warm.
The temperature sender is simply reading the average of two temperatures it is being exposed to-perhaps
185 degrees coolant temperature and perhaps as high as 450-500 degrees of exhaust header temperature. In a
complex situation such as this the sender can only TRY to read an average between two extremes and that is
what will show on the dial-face. Note the reading will NOT be correct for either the coolant temperature (too
high) but also inaccurate for exhaust header temperature (too low)!
6
PRESSURE SENDER
(Part No. SN 52, 53, 54, 55)
GMC Installations: The correct location on most GMC V8-engines to install the
Pressure Sender is under the distributor housing at the rear of the block!
Use the brass bushing kit (two pieces) provided to allow the sender to be mounted at a 45-degree angle pointing towards the driver’s knees. This allows the Sender to
clear the back of the intake manifold, the underside of the distributor housing and also
the firewall.
GMC Installations - Big Block engines: We do NOT recommend installing our
Pressure Sender in the opening located just above the oil filter on some big block GM
engines. This location may NOT be a full-pressure passage but instead a “by-pass”
oil passageway. Installing our pressure sender at this location may result in some
strange “low-pressure” readings under certain driving conditions. This does not indicate a defective instrument or sender! It simply means the sensor is in a location not
recommended.
Ford Installations: Install in a Ford V8 engine using the brass bushing kit (all three
pieces) provided. These bushings allow the Pressure Sender to be installed between
the motor mount and stock fuel pump. Ford also manufactures a Pressure sender
extension and if your engine has one of these in place, our brass bushing kit will not
be required.
Success for Classic Insturments entails a successful installation. Please call our technical department at 1-800-576-0461 from 8:00 to 5:00 Eastern time with any questions or concerns.
7
FUEL LEVEL SENDER SN 35 & SN39
CAUTION: DISCONNECT BATTERY CABLE BEFORE INSTALLING FUEL LEVEL
SENDER
STEP 1: Determine required float arm position. Senders are assembled for Right Hand float swing.
Do not change this position unless you contact your Tech department. Many incorrect fuel gauge
readings are due to improper modifications.
STEP 2: Cut a 1-5/8” diameter hole in top of the tank where sender is to be located over the deepest part of the tank and as close to the center of tank as possible. Be certain that the area where the
sender is to be mounted is free of obstructions of baffles that will interfere with the float.
STEP 3: Measure tank-depth vertically through the sender-mounting hole.
STEP 4: Remove rheostat housing from support arm by removing the two screws. Then carefully
cut the SUPPORT ARM at a point that is equal to 1/2 the tank depth + 1-5/8” - refer to Figure 2.
After removing the rheostat housing from the support arm-slide the cork gasket (furnished) up the
support arm towards the underside of the mounting flange.
STEP 5: Find the correct float arm dimensions for your particular tank depth under dimension “B”
as shown on the Table below. Dimensions shown allow for fuel tank depths 6” to 24”.
A= Actual Depth
B=Where to bend float arm from
A
B
A
B
A
B
A
B
6
6-1/2
7
7-1/2
8
8-1/2
9
9-1/2
10
10-1/2
2-3/4
3
3-1/4
3-1/2
4
4-1/4
4-1/2
5
5-1/4
5-1/2
11
11-1/2
12
12-1/2
13
13-1/2
14
14-1/2
15
15-1/2
5-3/4
6
6-1/4
6-1/2
6- 3/4
7-1/2
7-3/4
8
8-1/4
8-1/2
16
16-1/2
17
17
17-1/2
18
19
19-1/2
20
20-1/2
8-3/4
9-1/4
9-1/2
9-1/2
9-3/4
10-1/4
10-3/4
11
11-1/2
11-3/4
21
21-1/2
22
22
22-1/2
23
24
12
12-1/4
12-3/4
12-3/4
13
13-1/4
14
STEP 6: Cut off excess float arm, leaving a 1/4”-long hook that can be bent to 90 degrees
as shown on Figure 1 - when the float is flat in the horizontal position. Be sure that the inside
radius is sharp as indicated on the drawing. Insert this 90 degree “hook” into the wiper bracket hole as shown in Figure 1 and snap firmly into place. Be careful not to damage plastic wiper
bracket. Straighten the float arm if it has become bent in the adjustment process.
Figure 1
.25”
8
FUEL TANK SENDER
(Continued from page 9)
STEP 7: Reinstall the rheostat housing onto the float arm so the pivot-center (indicated by the wiper bracket hole) is 1/2 the tank depth + 3/16” - as measured from the
bottom of the mounting flange (refer to Figure 2). Wrap the extra lead wire around
the support arm. Retighten the two screws to securely mount the rheostat housing
onto the support bracket - in the correct position. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!
Figure 2
Rheostat
STEP 8: Install completed sender in tank by threading the sender (with float end
first) into the tank sender-mounting hole. Align the screw-hole pattern of the mounting flange with predrilled screw holes.
STEP 9: Use ONLY the five (5) mounting screws furnished by Classic (they are selfsealing) to install the mounting flange onto the tank - but do NOT tighten the screws
yet. First connect a ground wire with a ring-terminal around one of five mounting
screws - BETWEEN the underside of the metal mounting flange and the topside of
the cork gasket.
STEP 10: To operate properly the Fuel Sender Mounting Flange must be grounded
through a wire from the mounting flange to the metal chassis of the vehicle. Do not
depend on the metal frame, this will not be a dependable ground.
STEP 11: It is recommended the gauge and sender circuits be tested for proper readings BEFORE the fuel sender is permanently installed. To accomplish this-simply
hook up the fuel gauge to a battery Hot and Ground - then hook the fuel sender to the
sender terminal of the gauge and a Ground wire from the mounting flange to the
ground post of the gauge! Move float from Empty to full to empty several times
watching for correct and corresponding readings in the fuel gauge.
9
CLASSIC - FUEL LEVEL SENDER
SN 36 and SN 39
ADJUSTABLE FOR TANK DEPTHS 6” TO 24”
CAUTION: DISCONNECT BATTERY BEFORE INSTALLING THIS SENDER!
FOR PROPER INSTALLATION DO NOT REMOVE FLANGE FROM MOUNTING ARM.
1.) Senders are supplied with a right-hand FLOAT-ARM position.
Index Hole
(Note offset hole pattern)
2.) Cut a 1-1/2” diameter hole in tank
where sender is to be mounted. Sender
should be located over the deepest part
of the tank. Be certain that the area where
sender is to be mounted is free of baffles
or other obstructions inside tank.
3.) Measure tank-depth vertically through
the sender mounting hole.
4.) After loosening the rheostathousing on the support-arm
slide it up the support-arm towards
the mounting-ring.
5.) Cut the support-arm (with a finetoothed hacksaw) at a point which is 1/2
the tank depth plus 1-5/8”.
6.) Slide the resistor-housing down
the support-arm to a point which is
below the mounting-ring exactly 1/2 the
tank depth less 3/16” (measure
from the underside of the mounting-ring
pivot-movement inside the
resistor-housing).
7.) Coil (do not cut) any excess lead-wire
so it will not interfere with float movement,
10
to the
Rheostat
CLASSIC - FUEL LEVEL SENDER:
continued
“A”
“B”
Tank Depth
(Inches)
Floating-Arm
dimension (Inches)
6
6 -1/2
7
7-1/2
8
8-1/2
9
9-1/2
10
10-1/2
1-15/16
2-1/4
2-9/16
2-15/16
3-1/4
3-1/2
3-7/8
4-3/16
4-1/2
4-7/8
11
11-1/2
12
12-1/2
13
13-1/2
14
14-1/2
15
15-1/2
5-3/16
5-1/2
5-13/16
6-3/16
6-1/2
6-13/16
7-1/8
7-1/2
7-13/16
8-1/8
16
16-1/2
17
17-1/2
18
18-1/2
19
19-1/2
20
20-1/2
8-7/16
8-3/4
9-1/8
9-7/16
9-3/4
10-1/16
10-7/16
10-3/4
11-1/16
11-7/16
21
21-1/2
22
22-1/2
23
23-1/2
24
11-3/4
12-1/16
12-3/8
12-11/16
13
13-3/8
13-11/16
8.) Bend the float-wire to the “B”
dimension shown opposite your tank
depth on the chart (refer to illustration
before bending).
9.) Cut off excess float-wire (as illustrated)
leaving a 1/4” hook. Insert this hook
into the hole in the pivot-arm of the
resistor-housing.
Hole in Resistor
Housing Pivot-Arm
Float
1/4” Hook
“B” Dimension
(from chart)
10.) Crimp the edges of the pivot-arm
around the float-wire to insure a
firm grip (see illustration).
11.) Carefully slide the cork-gasket
over the float, the float-arm,
support-arm and resistor-housing.
12.) Install completed Sender in tank by
inserting into tank mounting hole
float-end first. After sender is fully inserted
and rotated in correct position the
mounting-ring should be fastened
with five (5) screws provided.
13.) A ground wire should be fastened from one
of the five mounting screws to the chassis for
proper gauge/sender operation.
11
Fuel Tank Level: SN35 (33-240OHM)
INSTRUMENT SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE CAUSE
RECOMMENDED CURE
Pointer moves quickly to beyond
FULL whenever key is turned to
ON. No other reading will show on
dial irregardless of level of fuel in
tank.
Wire between sender unit and “S”
terminal of gauge shorting out to
ground; gauge to read full scale
without resistance. Circuit bypassing sender directly to ground.
Use new “jumper wire” outside of
harness to replace wire between
sender terminal and “S” post on
back of instrument case.
Pointer moves immediately beyond
Disconnect wire from sender plate
turned to ON.
Missing or poor ground connection
between sender mounting plate and
“G” terminal on rear of the instrument case;
OR
Poor ground between engine and
firewall (dash grounding strap if
fiberglass car).
Pointer moves immediately beyond
FULL whenever key is turned ON EVEN if the ground and sender
wires and connections have been
checked and found OK.
Tank sender has been disassembled
and the reassembled incorrectly.
Result is incomplete circuit from
metal mounting plate to the vertical
bracket.
Remove sender unit and reassemble
correctly; or return sender for repair.
Include $11.00 for repair charge and
UPS return shipping.
Pointer moves below “E” when key
is switched ON and will not move
upscale even if the fuel level tank
has been confirmed as full.
Break in wiring harness between terminal post of tank sending unit and
“S” terminal on back of the instrument
case. Loss of continuity causes maximum resistance through the gauge.
Check by connecting jumper wire
from “S” on gauge to terminal on
sender (disconnect harness sendergauge wire before hooking up any
jumper wires.)
Pointer reads only from about 1/4 to
3/4 on scale. Will not show “E” on
empty tank or show “F” on full tank.
Pointer reads in correct direction but
only on center scale area.
Float wire not cut to the recommended
length. Float arm too long and float is
hitting top and bottom of tank before
float arm can touch upper & lower
stops on pivot housing assembly.
Remove sender from tank: reread
installation instructions: adjust float
wire to proper dimensions and test
before putting unit back into tank.
Pointer reads from “E” to 3/4 but
will not move to “F” even will full
tank; or reads 1/4 to “F” but will not
read “E” even if fuel tank is empty.
Float wire likely cut to proper length BUT pivot assembly adjusted too high
(will not read “F”) or too low (will not
read “E”) on vertical mounting bracket.
Remove sender from tank: reread
installation instructions: readjust
pivot assembly on vertical bracket.
Test, reinstall.
Pointer reads backwards; shows “F”
when tank is empty and “E” when
tank if full. Pointer moves opposite
to any changes in fuel level in tank.
Pivot housing was removed from
vertical bracket on tank sender &
reinstalled upside down when sender
was being adjusted fro tank depth.
Remove sender from tank: remount
pivot housing in correct position on
vertical bracket. Test “E” - “F” readings into gauge before reinstalling.
Pointer reads in error; may read in
reverse or reads only on part of dial.
May read EMPTY or FULL but only
on part of scale (pointer sweep area
appears “compressed”).
Mismatch between sender & instrument. Tank Sender is wrong resistance range for gauge. Sender manufactured by another company, or the
stock tank sender is being used
(NOT RECOMMENDED).
Remove sender. Check resistance
range from “E” TO “F” on ohmmeter. Order sender matched to fuel
gauge (check fuel gauge P/N
BEFORE ordering tank sender).
Float hits tank wall or baffle.
Bolt pattern does not permit normal
installation.
Remove sender. Use a pair of channel locks to twist arm to position
float into desired location.
FULL whenever key is turned ON EVEN if the fuel tank is empty. No
other reading will show on the dial
whenever the ignition key switch is
12
and “G” post of instrument. Run
“jumper” between sender and gauge.
If pointer reads correct rewire
instrument and sender ground wires.
STAINLESS STEEL DELUXE SENDER SN33
STEP 1: Cut a 1-3/4 inch (minimum 1-11/16 inches) diameter opening through the
top part of the fuel tank. If the tank already has a smaller opening - either enlarge the
existing opening to 1-3/4 inches or file notches on the edge of opening to allow the
rheostat-housing to be slid into the tank.
STEP 2: It is recommended that this opening be located over the deepest part of the
tank if possible. The opening should also be located on a flat, level area so as to avoid
tank baffles or other obstructions inside the tank.
STEP 3: For best results the sender opening should be as close to the centerline of
the car as possible. This will keep excessive fuel movement (“sloshing”) side-to-side
from seriously affecting the gauge reading.
STEP 4: Measure the tank depth down through the sender opening. On a sheet of
paper draw two lines (refer to Drawing A) the same distance apart as the vertical
depth measurements you just determined.
One line will represent the top of your tank and the other is the bottom at the point
where the sender will be installed.
STEP 5: Draw a third line (dashed) about one inch above the line you drew for the
bottom of the tank. This dashed line will be the empty reading and will allow a minimum Fuel Reserve of one inch.
rheostat-housing
13
STAINLESS STEEL DELUXE SENDER SN33 - continued
STEP 6: Draw a mark halfway between the top line and the dash (reserve line). This
mark will be the center-point between full (topline) and empty (at the reserve level)
and allow the gauge to read correctly. Complete the scale-full-to-empty.
STEP 7: Place the stainless tube and mounting plate assembly on top of your line
drawing. Align the edge of the mounting plate over the top (full) line. Notice that the
lower end of the pick-up tube will probably extend past (below) the bottom line
(Bottom of tank).
STEP 8: Locate the centerline on the drawing and mark the pick-up tube at this location. The next step is to draw a line around the Tube exactly 1-1/2 inches above the
centerline mark as you just made on the Tube.
STEP 9: With a felt-tip pen, mark the pick-up tube 1/4 inch above the tank bottom
line (Drawing B). This is the point at which the Tube must be cut to insure the tube
will not “bottom out” on the tank floor. Use a hacksaw designed for cutting stainless
steel and angle-cut the tube (Drawing B).
If the cut is correct, the angled cut in the tube will be between the dashed line (fuel
reserve) and the bottom line (tank bottom) - and the Stainless Mounting Plate will
be in alignment with the top line (tank top).
STEP 10: Slide the cork gasket up the stainless tube - to just under the bottom of the
mounting plate.
STEP 11: The pivot arm (and the tank-float/float rod) will swing 90 degrees Top
(full) to bottom (empty). Keep the pick-up tube/sender movement aligned over the
drawing and carefully move the pivot arm to it’s Top (Full) position.
STEP 12: Align the float rRod over the “through” in the pivot arm until the Cellular
float just reaches the top line (Full) on the drawing. Use the felt-tip pen to mark the
float-rod where it crosses the hole in the pivot arm.
14
STAINLESS STEEL DELUXE SENDER SN33 - continued
STEP 13: Remove the float-rod and bend carefully at this mark to a 90 degree angle.
Bend in the same direction as the bend end holding the float. Cut excess float -wire
1/4 inch beyond (away from the Float) the 90 degree bend with wire-cutters. This will
result in the end having a 1/4 inch “hook”.
STEP 14: Insert the 1/4 inch “hook” through the hole in the pivot arm and press the
float rod into the “through” of the pivot arm. Swing the float downward towards the
dotted line on the drawing. the black Cellular Float should just touch the dotted line
at the same time the pivot arm “bottoms out” in the opening on the side of the resistor-housing.
STEP 15: Your Fuel Sender is now set properly for your tank depth and will allow a
Reserve fuel supply when empty is indicated on the gauge.
STEP 16: Firmly crimp the edges of the pivot arm “through” around the floatRodfor a secure and permanent attachment.
STEP 17: Loosen the two NO.10-32 stainless pan-head phillips 3/4-inch screws on
the stainless-steel u-bracket and carefully slide the resistor-housing down the tube to
the end.
Do NOT slide the rheostat-housing off the pickup-tube.
STEP 18: Gently tighten the screws to again temporarily hold the resistor-housing
assembly on the lower end of the Pick-Up Tube.
STEP 19: Lower the pivot arm (with float-wire and tank float attached) so as to
point into the tank opening. Insert tank-float and float-wire through the opening until
the rheostat-housing/pick-up tube assembly is just starting to enter through the tank
opening.
STEP 20: Hold the rheostat-housing securely and loosen the tube from the u-bracket by unscrewing the two screws slightly.
STEP 21: Carefully slide the pick-up tube downward through the u-bracket assembly (into the tank) until the top of the rheostat-housing aligns with the circumference mark on the tank Tube.
STEP 22: Tighten the two stainless locking screws firmly after making certain the
float-arm and rheostat-housing assembly is correctly rotated on the tube. The rotationadjustment must align the float to point away from any baffles or other obstructions.
15
STAINLESS STEEL DELUXE SENDER SN33
- continued
STEP 23: The cork gasket and sender mounting plate can now be aligned over the tank
opening and fastened securely with the five insulated leak-proof screws provided.
STEP 24: Connect a ground wire from one of five sender mounting screws to the
metal chassis for proper gauge operation.
16
FUEL GAUGE
STEP 1: Connect the first wire between the top terminal screw of the fuel tank
sender and the “S” post on the back of the fuel gauge.
STEP 2: Connect the second wire from the terminal post marked “G” on the gauge
to the “GND” post on the back of the tachometer or to a common grounding terminal behind the dash panel.
STEP 3: Connect a third wire from the terminal post of the gauge marked “I” to the
“BAT” post of the tachometer. This connection should become “HOT” when the key
is turned “ON”.
WATER TEMPERATURE GAUGE
STEP 1: Install the water temperature sender following the step-by-step instructions
as outlined on page_______.
STEP 2: Connect the first wire between the top terminal screw of the water temperature sender and the “S” post on the back of the water temperature gauge.
STEP 3: Connect the second wire from the terminal post marked “G” on the back
of the fuel gauge. This wire may also be connected to a common ground
terminal behind the dash panel.
STEP 4: Connect the third wire from the terminal post of the gauge marked “I” to
either the “I” post on the back of the fuel gauge or to a fuse terminal behind the dash
board. This third wire will be “HOT” when the key is turned “ON”.
OIL PRESSURE GAUGE
STEP 1: Install the oil pressure sender provided following the step-by-step instructions described on page _______.
STEP 2: Connect the first wire between the top terminal screw of the oil pressure
sender and the “S” post on the back of the pressure gauge.
STEP 3: Connect the second wire from the terminal post marked “G” on the gauge
to the “G” post on the back of the water temperature gauge or you may also run this
wire to a common ground point behind the dash.
STEP 4: Connect a third wire from the terminal post of the gauge market “I” to the
“I” terminal of the water temperature gauge. This wire must carry + 12 volts
(“HOT”) when the key is turned “ON”.
17
VOLT GAUGE
STEP 1: The volt gauge does not require a Sender and no wire should be connected
to the “S” terminal.
STEP 2: Connect the first wire from the terminal post of the volt gauge marked “G”
to the “G” post of the oil pressure gauge. Connect a second wire from the same terminal post (marked “G”) of the volt gauge to a good ground behind the dash board.
this wire MUST be a good ground back to the ground-post of the battery.
STEP 3: Connect a second wire from the terminal post of the gauge marked “I” to
either a fuse terminal behind the dash or the “I” post of the oil pressure gauge. Check
to determine this wire will be “HOT” when the key is turned “ON”.
18
BATTERY VOLTS TROUBLE SHOOTING
INSTRUMENT SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE CAUSE
RECOMMENDED CURE
Pointer “pegs” past 18 volts
when key is turned ON.
Ground wire has been connected
to “S” stud instead of the “G”
terminal.
OR
“S” terminal is shorting out to
ground.
Move ground wire to “G” terminal. Make certain no wire is
touching the “S” terminal post.
Pointer “pegs” below 8 volts
when key is ON.
Ground wire connected to “I”
terminal and 12-Volt “hot” wire
is connected to “G” terminal.*
Follow instructions previously
outlined in this book. Also refer
to the above stated cure.
* IMPORTANT: Reversing the leads in this way can result in major electrical damage
when metal mounting bracket is installed or when light switch is turned on.
Pointer drops between 9.5 and 10
Volts with starter engaged.
Normal. This is called the
“cranking voltage.”
No cure required. Learn to read
your instrument and how it reacts
in normal operating situations.
Pointer reads 16-18 volts with
engine on but only 12 volts if
engine is not running.
Normal - If late-model alternator
(1984+) is being used WITH
sealed maintenance free type battery. NOT normal IF mid-70’s
alternator is being used with
newer maintenance-free battery.
Match your battery-type and
alternator-type. DO NOT cross
match. Use new-type alternator
with new-type battery! Use Oldtype alternator with old “popcap” battery.
Voltmeter always shows good
charge (15-17 volt) but battery
“runs dry” and “boils” acid out
of battery refill caps.
New-type alternator is being
used with older-type battery.
Alternator charging at higher rate
than battery can accept.
Same cure as above! Match your
alternator AND battery for best
results.
Volt shows “normal” charging
rate but battery seems to run
down every few days - even after
a long daytime trip.
Older low-output alternator
being used with new sealed
maintenance-free battery (which
requires newer high-output type
alternator to maintain a good battery charge).
Same cure as above! Match your
alternator AND battery for best
results.
IF NO POINTER MOVEMENT: Connect “Hot” and “Ground” of 12-Volt Battery direct to “I” and “G” on
back of instrument to check gauge!
19
AMP GAUGE
The amp gauge must be installed between the “HOT” post of the starter
solenoid and the “BAT” terminal of the key switch (on the tilt-column of a in-dash
key-switch - whichever is applicable.
STEP 1: Connect a 10-AWG (minimum) red wire from the 12-volt terminal post of
the starter solenoid to the “I” post on the back of the gauge.
STEP 2: Connect another 10-AWG (minimum) red wire from the “S” post of the
amp gauge to the “BAT” of the key switch (on either a tilt-column or an indash key
switch).
STEP 3: Connect a 16-AWG or 18-AWG black wire from the “G” post on the back
of the amp gauge to a ground connection behind the dash.
STEP 4: If the gauge amp pointer reads “backwards” (indicating “discharge”) when
you know the alternator is “charging” simply reverse the two wires connected to the
“I” and “S” posts on the back of the gauge in STEP 1 and 2 above.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT allow any “ground” wire or other “ground” to contact either the “I” or “S” terminal of any amp gauge at any time! A ground contact
to terminal could result in major electrical damage, fire to your wiring harness, damage to other electrical components, or damage to your car.
20
SPEEDOMETER SENSOR
(PART No. SN 96)
8 Pulse
1.) Disconnect battery before making any connection
2.) Install the sending units provided with your set only when engine is cold!
GMC Installations: Our pulse signal sensor has been furnished with a 7/8”-18
threaded hard-coupler attached which threads onto the cable take-off of most GM
powerglide, turbo 350/400 and some 700-R transmissions. NOTE: This same threaded hard-coupler will fit many early Fords (1932-48) having an enclosed torque-tube
drive line.
GMC Over-drive Transmissions: Refer to the specific instructions sheet packaged
with the correct classic converter box part no. SN 75 if you are using our speedometer with a stock GMC speed sensor that has been factory-installed on the transmission
by GMC.
SPEEDOMETER SENSOR
(PART No. SN16)
16 Pulse
1.) Disconnect battery before making any connection
2.) Install the sending units provided with your set only when engine is cold!
BLACK WIRE
TO GO TO
DEDICATED
GROUND ON
CHASSSIS
SPEEDOMETER PULSE SENSOR (SN16FD)
FOR FORD APPLICATIONS
WHITE WIRE TO
GO TO SIGNAL
POST OR
“SENSOR”
POST FOR
SPEEDOMETER
RED WIRE TO 12 VOLT SOURCE (KEYED 12 VOLTS)
NOTE: RED WRE TO BE FUSED WITH IN-LINE
5 AMP FUSE
OR AT VEHICLE FUSE PANEL
(WIRING ON FORD & GM APPLICATIONS)
SENSOR FOR GM APPLICATIONS 9SN16)
21
TWIN WIRE LEAD - SN83
(Part No. SN 83)
(speedometer wiring)
STEP 1: Plug the furnished Twin-Wire Lead (Part no. SN 83) into the matching
weatherproof socket of the Pulse Signal Generator on the transmission.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT substitute another brand or type of molded malefemale plug socket! Use ONLY the twin wire-lead furnished by “Classic
Instrument” to avoid future electrical continuity problems!
STEP 2: Twist the twin wire-leads one around the other to make a “twisted pair”.
Braiding or twisting these two insulated wires (one twist each 3/4”) eliminates most
outside interference that could cause the speedometer to read incorrectly.
STEP 3: Route these twin wire-leads separate and apart from the rest of your wiring
harness to the back of the speedometer case. DO NOT tie-wrap or run these twin
wire-leads parallel or with another wiring harness.
STEP 4: Connect one of the two leads (it does not matter which) of your twin wirelead kit to the terminal post on the speedometer marked “SIG”. They may be cut to
your particular application.
STEP 5: Connect the second lead of the twin-wire lead pair to the terminal post on
the speedometer marked “GND”!
STEP 6: Connect another wire (16 gauge) to the terminal post-marked “GND”
(same post you connected to in step 5) and connect the other end to chassis.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT connect this second wire to any other gauge or to a
common ground connection behind the dash!
STEP 7: Connect a 16-gauge red wire from the terminal post marked “BAT” on the
back of the speedometer to the ACC (Accessory) post of the key-start switch! This
is the post that will become “HOT” when you insert the key and turn it backwards
(counter-clockwise) one position. No other wires must be connected to either this
ACC post or to the speedometer “BAT” post. Refer to our wiring diagram on page
__________.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT connect this wire to any terminal on the fuse block,
a terminal strip or wiring that may be labeled ACC by some wire harness manufactures. The only true ACC post will be on a tilt column or an in-dash key switch
and becomes HOT when the key is turned backward. DO NOT FULLY MOUNT
SPEEDOMETER UNTIL ADJUSTED.
22
ADJUSTING YOUR ELECTRONIC SPEEDOMETER 8 PULSE
To adjust your programmable speedometer for your own combination of tire and rim size, rear
end gearing, inflation pressure, etc. a simple road test to determine the exact error in your present
speed-reading must be made.
STEP 1: To check your speedometer reading follow and pace another car (with an accurate
speedometer) traveling at exactly 60 MpH true road speed.
IMPORTANT: Be certain the eight-rocker adjustment switches on the back of the
speedometer case are set to the correct factory setting of 1-3-4-5 to the ON position (switches
numbered 1-3-4-5 should be tipped inward at the top). All other switches must be OFF
(tipped in at the bottom).
STEP 2: Now determine the speed-reading of your Classic speedometer when you are moving
exactly 60 MpH road speed!
STEP 3: Refer to the chart below and find the MpH reading your speedometer was showing when
you were pacing the car with the accurate speedometer at a true 60 MpH road speed.
STEP 4: Find the switch numbers (second column) opposite the speedometer reading from our
speed test. A number indicates that switch must be turned ON (that is, pushed in at the top).
STEP 5: An asterisk (*) substituting for a number (1 to 8-Left to Right) indicates that particular
switch number must be turned OFF (that is, tipped in at the bottom) to correctly reprogram your
speedometer.
8 PULSES
31 MpH
32 MpH
33 MpH
34 MpH
35 MpH
36 MpH
37 MpH
38 MpH
39 MpH
40 MpH
42 MpH
43 MpH
44 MpH
45 MpH
46 MpH
47 MpH
48 MpH
49 MpH
51 MpH
52 MpH
53 MpH
54 MpH
***45*78
***45678
**34***8
**345*7*
**34567*
*2**567*
*2*4**7*
*2*4*67*
*2*45**8
*2*456*8
*23*56**
*234****
*234**78
*234*67*
*2345**8
*23456**
*2345678
1***56*8
1**4****
1**4**7*
1**45**8
1**456**
55 MpH
56 MpH
57 MpH
58 MpH
59 MpH
60 MpH
61 MpH
62 MpH
63 MpH
64 MpH
65 MpH
66 MpH
67 MpH
68 MpH
69 MpH
70 MpH
71 MpH
72 MpH
73 MpH
74 MpH
75 MpH
76 MpH
1**4567*
1*3*56**
1*3*567*
1*34****
1*34**7*
1*345***
1*3456**
1*345678
12**567*
12*4****
12*4**78
12*4*6**
12*4*678
12*45*7*
12*456**
12*45678
123*56*8
123*5678
1234**7*
1234**78
1234*678
12345***
STEP 6: Should you ever change tire or rim size, rear-end gearing or transmission you must make
a brand-new road test (starting again at Step 1 of this section on “Adjusting Your Electronic
Speedometer”). Be certain the rocker switches are always reset to the factory setting of 1*345***
(1, 3, 4 and 5) ON (same as 60 MpH on chart) before starting another road test.
23
MATHEMATICAL FORMULA FOR
SPEEDOMETER CALIBRATION 16 PULSE
1. Determine expected pulses per mile of speedometer signal.
PULSE PER MILE = AXLE RATIO x TIRE REVS/MILE (NOTE 2) X NUMBER OF PULSE/REV of
PULSE GENERATOR
Example:
AXLE RATIO = 3,9:1
TIRE REVS/MILE = 491
PULSES/REV OF PULSE GENERATOR = 16
PULSES PER MILE = 3.9 x 491 x 16 = 30638.4
2. Determine N in the expression below:
PULSES PER MILE = 10,000
30638.4 - 10,000
N=
Example: N
= 825.53625
25
25
3. Round N to the nearest whole number (Example 825.536 to 826).
4. Close all switches (See switch setting detail).
5. Subtract largest possible number in switch table from N which does not
result in a negative remainder. Table number = 512 ...OPEN SWITCH 3.
Example: 826 (N) - 512 (Table number) = 314 (Remainder)
6. Repeat step 5 using the remainder untill the resukt is zero.
7. Remainder from step 5 = 314, table number = 256..OPEN SWITCH 4.
8. Remainder from step 7 = 58, table number = 32......OPEN SWITCH 7.
12. Remainder equals zero, switch code is 3, 4, 7, 8, 9, 11.
13. End of calibration.
14. Calibration check:
PULSES PER MILE
= HERTZ @60 MPH
60
PULSES PER MILE
= HERTZ @ 100 km/h
57.93
NOTES
1. Switch code is only read
during speedometer power
up. Changes to the switch
code while power is
applied will have no effect
until power is removed and
reapplied.
2. Contact tire manufacturer for tire revolutions per
mile.
25
SWITCH TABLE
Switch
Table
Position
Number
1
2048
2
1024
3
512
4
256
5
128
6
64
7
32
8
16
9
8
10
4
11
2
12
1
CLASSIC INSTRUMENTS
WIRING HARNESS INSTRUCTIONS
Fuel Gauge:
Brown wire to S terminal (sending unit)
Red wire to I terminal (keyed 12 volts)
Black wire to G terminal (ground)
Gray wire to LIGHT wire (lights)
Oil Gauge:
Blue w/white chaser wire to S terminal (sending unit)
Temperature Gauge:
Green wire to S terminal (sending unit)
Volt Gauge:
Speedometer:
Green to S terminal (pulse signal)
Pink wire to B+ or I terminal (keyed 12 volts auxiliary side)
Black wire to G Terminal (ground)
Tachometer:
White wire to S terminal (tach signal)
Red wire to B+ or I terminal (keyed 12 volts)
26
CLASSIC INSTURMENTS
WIRING HARNESS INSTRUCTIONS
(Continued)
Left Turn Signal Indicator:
Light blue wire to EITHER wire
Black wire to EITHER wire
Right Turn Signal Indicator:
Dark blue wire to EITHER wire
High Beam Indicator:
Light green wire to EITHER wire
STEP 2: Install the Supplied Terminals on your Wire Harness
Install terminals in the back of the supplied numbered terminal block. Once all
your wires have the terminal crimped on, follow the diagram to install in Block
– (if and when you slide the wrong terminal in the wrong hole DO NOT worry, just
take a small screw driver and go to the front of the block and slide the terminal with
wire out and replace in proper hole. ) Once all wires and terminals are in place,
then plug both blocks together and ENJOY!
1 = Chassis Ground
2 = Fuel Sending Unit
3 = 12 Volt Keyed Source
4 = High Beam Indicator Wire
5 = Tach Source or Yellow Wire on Classic Filter
6 = Light Switch
7 = Temperature Sending Unit
8 = Left Turn Signal Wire
9 = Oil Pressure Sending Unit
10 = Right Turn Signal Wire
1 = Speedometer 12volt Keyed Source (Must be Dedicated - this means it needs to be the
only wire on this circiut)
*Example: 1.) ACC on Fuse Block,
2.) Ignition Switch
3.) Electric Fuel Pump Circuit,
if not used.
2 = Dedicated Ground (this must be grounded and all by itself it cannot share any other
ground wire)
3 = One of Classic Instruments Speed Sensor’s Wire
4 = One of Classic Instruments Speed Sensor’s Wire
27
4-5/8” Electronic Programmable Speedometer
Plase follow instructions exactly as outlines and in the exact same sequence as
shown below to insure proper operation, accuracy and long-life reliability.
Step - Connect one of the pulse aignal wires to terminal post 2 on the back of the
speedometer case.
Step 2 - Connect another wire between terminal post 2 and a good chassis ground
(Not to a common ground or to any other gauge ground or other electrical
component ground).
Step 3 - Connect the other wire from the pulse signal generator to terminal Post 3
on the back of the speedometer case.
Step 4 - The next connection will be a 16-AWG wire from the accessory post of
your key-start Switch to the terminal post 1 on the back of the Speedometer
Case. DO NOT ATTACH THIS WIRE UNTIL ALL THE ABOVE
WIRES HAVE BEEN CONNECTED AS DESCRIBED ABOVE!
Step 5 - The last step will be to connect terminal post 5 to your night-lighting
circuit or light switch.
Wire 1 from Pulse
Signal Generator
To Dedicated
Ground on Chassis
To ACC Post of Key
Start Switch
1
Light
Socket
Light
Socket
Mounting Stud
4
3
2
5
Wire 2 from Pulse
Signal Generator
Mounting Stud
6
Ventilation
Cooling Hole
Wire to Night
Lighting Switch
IMPORTANT NOTICE
DO NOT connect or touch any additional wires to any terminal posts of the
speedometer. If you have less than five wires your speedometer will not work
properly. Refer to our installation booklet for instructions on calibrating our
speedometer. A calibration chart is provided in the installation booklet along with
instructions for making a road test.
28
INSTRUMENT ADJUSTMENT AND TROUBLE SHOOTING
Use this sheet to determine some of the more common problems associated with the installation of the electronic speedometer manufactured by Classic Instruments, Inc. Note that your speedometer must first be installed and
adjusted as per instructions printed in the Installation Booklet before the following information will be useful.
Although your speedometer is subject to “static” such as RFI (Radio Frequency Interference), EMI (ElectroMagnetc Interference), voltage surges and “spikes” common in every modern automobile electrical system, this
static will probably not affect your electronic speedometer IF certain precautions are taken during the wiring
phase. Use the following listing as a guide for correcting any problem you might have after installing the
speedometer as recommended.
Electronic Speedometers
INSTRUMENT SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE CAUSE
RECOMMENDED CURE
Pointer reads in 10 to 20 MpH
range with car stopped and engine
is “reved” up.
Non-resistance or solid-core “racing-type” plug wire being used.
Replace plug wires with suppressive or resistance-type wire.
Pointer reads in 30 to 60 MpH
range with car stopped and engine
is “reved” up.
Pointer reads like tach needle,
moving quickly up and down
scale in response to engine
RpM’s.
Pointer will not indicate any speed
reading when car is moving.
Pointer begins climbing to 70-90
MpH after reading steady and
actual road speed is 55-60 MpH
(and car is not accelerating).
Pointer moves backwards to
straight-down position when key
is turned on. No other reading will
likely show on scale.
Transmission fluid (ATF) leaks
from cable or hard-coupler or
pulse signal generator assembly
while car is parked or stored.
Non-resistance or solid-core “racing” wire being used between the
coil and distributor.
Replace coil wire with resistance
or suppressive wire and install
capacitor.
Ignition coil too close to
speedometer head in fiber glass
car; coil mounted behind dash on
firewall;
OR
12 volt on speedometer connected
to 12 volt posts on Tachometer.
Relocate ignition coil onto
engine-mounting point.
OR
Move 12 volt lead of speedometer
to the Accessory terminal of
Ignition switch.
Transmission gear missing or worn.
cable not into square in opening of
signal generator securely;
OR
Continuity lost in signal wire(s)
between signal Generator and
speedometer.
Replace gear; check cable for
“bottoming” out too far inside
transmission gear.
OR
Disconnect wire(s) and check
continuity with volt-ohm meter.
Battery slowly discharging and
voltage in electrical system
decreasing, or bad ground connection slowly becoming worse.
Check alternator output and battery for proper 13+ volts charging
rate. Check ground connections.
“Hot” wire touched “SIG” terminal, or excess voltage surge
occurred from regulator/alternator
malfunction, reverse polarity.
Cable or generator not at fault. No
transmission fluid should be present in or around the cable or hardcoupler assembly.
Call factory for a repair estimate
and instructions BEFORE returning. RETURNS MUST have
approval.
Replace o-ring seal & small rubber washer if GM transmission.
May require replacement of the
signal generator.
*CAUTION*
DO NOT allow any 12 Volt “Hot-Wire” to touch or be connected to the “SIG” or “S” terminal on the back
of your speedometer! This can seriously damage the circuitry and void the warranty!
PLEASE GET APPROVAL BEFORE SHIPPING ANY PARTS.
29
CLASSIC INSTRUMENTS
TACHOMETER INSTRUCTIONS for 3 3/8”
STEP 1: Locate the tachometer filter in your instrument set. This filter will be a black plastic tube
(5/8” diameter x 1” long) and have three color-coded wires (yellow, black and red) protruding from
one end.
STEP 2: Connect the yellow wire of the tach filter to the terminal post marked “SENDER” on the
back of the tachometer case.
STEP 3: Connect the black wire of the tach filter to a ground point on the ENGINE block close to
the distributor! Do NOT connect this wire to “GND” on the back of the gauge, or to a commonground connection behind the dash.
STEP 4: Connect the red wire of the tach filter to the correct terminal as determined by the brand
and type of ignition system listed below:
• Range Selector: 1=4cyl 4cycle, 2=6cyl 4cycle, 3=8cyl 4cycle, 4=12
Standard Points & Condenser system:
Red wire to distributor side of coil (usually marked as “-).
GMC_HEI (High Energy Ignition system:
Red wire to “TACH” terminal on coil side of distributor cap.
MSD (Multiple Spaark Discharge System):
Disregard tach filter and connect directly to Tach Outpost on side of MSD box. If Tach does
not respond, your MSD system may require a MSD Tach Adapter No. 8910 or No. 8920.
Vertex Magneto systems:
Red wire of tach filter to “kKill” terminal screw-post on side of magneto body.
Accel Ignition Coils:
Red wire of tach filter to “distributor” side of ignition coil.
CAUTION! Some Accel ignition coils require distributor-side wire to be
connected to the “+” post on the coil and not the more-usual “-” terminal!
read Accel instructions carefully before connecting ignition coil or filter.
Mallory Ignition System:
Red wire of tach filter to “distributor side of ignition coil - usually the coil
terminal marked “-”. It is important to note that Mallory systems may require
the tach selector switch to be set to the 4-cylinder setting (rather than the
8-cylinder setting) before the tach will read correctly.
STEP 5: Connect a 16-AWG wire from the GND terminal on the back of the tachometer case to a
good ground point behind the dash panel.
STEP 6: Connect a 16-AWG wire from the tachometer terminal post marked BAT to a + 12 volt
source (terminal strip of fuse block) behind the dash panel.
Ground Post (-)
Light Post
LT
SW
12 Volts Post
UNSW
+12 V
GND
Mounting Post
Mounting Post
SIG
Signal Post
30
Adjusting Range
Selector
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for 2 1/8” TACHOMETER
Please follow instructions exactly as outlined and in the exact same sequence as
Step 1 - Connect minimum 16-AWG wire from a good chassis ground to terminal
post marked “G” on the back of tachometer case.
Step 2 - Extend minimum 16-AWG wire from:
- Standard Points & Condenser system - distributor side of coil to the S post
- GMC_HEI Ignition system- “tach” terminal on coil side of distributor cap
- MSD (Multiple Spaark Discharge System): Disregard tach filter and
connect directly to Tach Outpost on side of MSD box. If Tach does not
respond, your MSD system may require a MSD Tach Adapter No. 8910 or
No. 8920.
- Vertex Magneto systems- “Kill” terminal screw-post on side of
magneto body.
- Accell ignition Coils - distributor side of ignition coil “+” (Accel ignitions
refer to inst.).
- Mallory Ignition system - distributor side of ignition coil “-”
Step 3 - The last connection will be a 16-AWG wire from a switched 12 volt
source to terminal post B+ on the back of the tachometer case. DO NOT
ATTACH THIS WIRE UNTIL ALL OTHERS HAVE BEEN CONNECTED PROPERLY AND GROUND CONNECTION HAS BEEN MADE!
Step 4 - The next step will be to connect the light socket to your night-lighting circuit of light switch. One of the two wires from each light-socket will be
the positive wire and the other will be the ground wire (it does not matter
which is used for plus or ground on these lights leads).
B+
G
Mounting Stud
Mounting Stud
VENT HOLE
S
31
CLASSIC INSTRUMENTS
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for 4 5/8” TACHOMETER
Step 1 - Set selector switch for correct number of pulses (see below).
post 2 on back of tachometer case.
Step 3 - Extend minimum 16-AWG wire from the yellow wire of the tachometer
fFilter (refer to tach filter instruction sheet to install tach filter) to the terminal post
3 on the back of the tachometer case.
Step 4 - The last connection will be a 16-AWG wire from a switched 12 volt source
to terminal post 1 on the back of the tachometer case. DO NOT ATTACH THIS
WIRE UNTIL ALL OTHERS HAVE BEEN CONNECTED PROPERLY AND
GROUND CONNECTION HAS BEEN MADE!
IMPORTANT NOTICE
DO NOT connect or touch any additional wires to the terminal posts numbered 4
and 5 on the back of the Tachometer case. This means absolutely NO wire- Hot,
ground, jumper, Sender wire or otherwise should ever be connected to either of
these posts. Connecting any wire to these posts can cause damage to the sensitive
internal electronic circuitry. Such damage is not covered by warranty.
32
INSTALLATION OF 3 3/8” Tachometer
post marked “G” on the back of tachometer case.
Step 2 - Extend minimum 16-AWG wire from:
- Standard Points & Condenser system - distributor side of coil to the S post
- GMC_HEI Ignition system- “tach” terminal on coil side of distributor cap
- MSD (Multiple Spaark Discharge System): Disregard tach filter and
connect directly to Tach Outpost on side of MSD box. If Tach does not
respond, your MSD system may require a MSD Tach Adapter No. 8910 or
No. 8920.
- Vertex Magneto systems- “Kill” terminal screw-post on side of
magneto body.
- Accell ignition Coils - distributor side of ignition coil “+” (Accel ignitions
refer to inst.).
- Mallory Ignition system - distributor side of ignition coil “-”
Step 3 - The last connection will be a 16-AWG wire from a switched 12 volt
source to terminal post B+ on the back of the tachometer case. DO NOT
ATTACH THIS WIRE UNTIL ALL OTHERS HAVE BEEN CONNECTED PROPERLY AND GROUND CONNECTION HAS BEEN MADE!
Step 4 - Connect wire from light switch to light post (LT).
Ground Post (-)
Light Post
LT
SW
12 Volts Post
UNSW
+12 V
GND
Mounting Post
Mounting Post
SIG
Signal Post
33
Adjusting Range
Selector
Tachometer Trouble Shooting
INSTRUMENT SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE CAUSE
RECOMMENDED CURE
Pointer moves immediately (backwards or forwards) to straightdown position when key is turned
on. No other reading will appear
on scale except pointer may return
to “0” with the key off.
Tach sender wire has been hooked
to magneto, electronic, GMC-HEI
ignition or high-output after market coil WITHOUT recommended
tach filter installed between tach
and coil.
*Call factory for repair estimate
and instructions BEFORE returning. Repair or replacement for this
damage is not covered under warranty.
Pointer moves upscale to approximate idle RpM’s but will not indicate higher RpM’s even if engine
is “revved”.
Tach hooked to tach post of MSD
module instead of being connected (-) of coil. Distributor may also
use magnetic pickup for triggering.
Test tachometer on car having
standard points ignition to confirm tach is OK. Install MSD
adapter (MSD 8910 or 8920).
Pointer reads too high or too low
compared to actual engine RpM’s.
May read as much as 200% high
or 50% low if compared with
another tachometer or a dwelltach unit.
Rotary switch (1-2-3-4) on rear of
tach case has been set incorrectly
for the number of cylinders. Tachs
are factory-tested (and usually
shipped) set to the 4-cylinder setting.
Reset switch with the slot-arrow
tip pointing to number that corresponds to number of engine cylinders.
Tach pointer “falls off ” from
3500 RpM’s with engine speed
steady at 3500 (points ignitions
ONLY). May drop to only 1500
RpM’s (this low is extreme).
Indicates improper dwell setting,
or points are set bad, or shaft (or
bearing) of distributor is worn.
Install new points; set timing &
dwell; check distributor shaft and
bearings for wear, looseness.
Pointer does not respond; reads at
“0” and shows no movement even
when engine is revved.
Tachometer has bad or no direct
ground connection to battery,
frame AND firewall - OR 12 volt
source is not reliable.
Run jumper wires from tach GND
to ground on battery and to engine
ground. If tach works install new
grounds.
34
INSTALLING DUAL-INSTRUMENT CLUSTERS
3-3/8
TEMP-VOLTS CLUSTER
DO NOT CONNECT
ANY WIRE HERE.
Light
Socket
2
1
From 12-Volt Source
B+
Mounting
Stud
Position Number 4
is NOT to be used
for any connection!
From Temperature
4
Mounting
Stud
G
From Chassis Ground
3
Light
Socket
DO NOT CONNECT
ANY WIRE HERE.
Connect a minimum 16-AWG wire from the Classic water temp sender to #2 post
on the back of the dual-cluster case.
Connect a minimum 16-AWG wire from a good chassis ground to the terminal post
marked “G” on the back of the dual-cluster case.
Connect a minimum 16-AWG wire from a switched 12 volt source to the terminal
post marked “B+” on the back of the dual-cluster case.
FUEL-OIL PRESS CLUSTER
DO NOT CONNECT
ANY WIRE HERE.
Light
Socket
2
1
From 12-Volt Source
From Temperature
B+
Mounting
Stud
4
Mounting
Stud
G
From Chassis Ground
3
DO NOT CONNECT
ANY WIRE HERE.
From Oil pressure Sender
Connect a minimum 16-AWG wire from the Classic fuel tank sender to the
indicated tTerminal #2 on the back of the dual cluster.
Connect a minimum 16-AWG wire from the Classic oil pressure sender to the indicated terminal post #4 on the back of the dual cluster.
Connect a minimum 16-AWG wire from a good chassis ground to the terminal post
marked “G” on the back of the dual-cluster case.
Connect a minimum 16-AWG wire from a switched 12 Volt source to the terminal
post marked “B+” on the back of the dual-cluster case.
35
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: 3-3/8” Quad-Cluster
To insure proper operation, accuracy and long-life reliability, these instructions
should be followed step by step as outlined below.
STEP 1: Connect a minimum 16-AWG wire from the Classic oil pressure sender to
terminal post “1” on the back of the quad-cluster case.
STEP 2: Connect a minimum 16-AWG wire from the Classic fuel tank sender to terminal post “2” on the back of the quad-cluster case.
STEP 3: Connect a minimum 16-AWG wire from the Classic water temp sensor to terminal post “3” on the back of the quad-cluster case.
STEP 4: Connect a minimum 16-AWG wire from a good chassis ground to terminal
post “G” on the back of the quad-cluster case.
STEP 5: Connect a minimum 16-AWG wire from switched 12 Volt source to terminal
post “B+” on the back of the quad-cluster case.
From Oil Pressure
Sender
Light
Socket
2
1
From 12-Volt
Source
From Fuel
Tank Sender
B+
Mounting
Stud
4
Mounting
Stud
G
Do NOT connect any
wire to this post!
3
Light
Socket
From Chassis
Ground
From Temperature
Sensor
IMPORTANT NOTICE: DO NOT connect or touch any wire to terminal post “4”
on the back of the quad-cluster case. This means absolutely NO hot-wire, ground,
jumper, sender or otherwise should ever be connected to this post!
This terminal (number “4”) may have been deliberately removed inside the instrument
case at our factory! This “missing” terminal post is NOT a defect! We utilize these circuit boards in several different configurations and “4” is not used in any existing automotive electrical system. Attempting to connect or touch any wire to this terminal (“4”)
can cause damage to the sensitive internal electronic circuitry. Such damage is not covered by warranty.
36
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for 4 3/4” QUAD CLUSTER
Pleae follow instructions exactly as outlined an in the exact same sequence as
Step 1: Connect a minimum 16-AWG wire from the Classic oil pressure sender
to terminal post “4”on the back of the quad-cluster case.
Step 2: Connect a minimum 16-AWG wire from the Classic fuel tank sender to
terminal post “1” on the back of the quad-cluster case.
Step 3: Connect a minimum 16-AWG wire from the Classic water Temperature
sensor to terminal post “3” on the back of the quad-cluster case..
Step 4: Connect a minimum 16-AWG wire from a good chassis ground to terminal post “2” on the back of the quad-cluster case.
Step 5: The last connection will be a 16-AWG wire from a switched 12 volt
source to terminal post on the back of the quad-cluster case. DO NOT
ATTACH THIS WIRE UNTIL ALL OTHERS HAVE BEEN CONNECTED
TO PROPER SENDING UNITS AND GROUND CONNECTIONS ARE
MADE!
Step 6: The final step will be to connect the light socket wires to your nightlighting circuit of light switch. One of the two wires from each light socket
will the Plus wire and the other will be the ground wire (it does not matter
which is used for plus or ground on these light leads).
IMPORTANT NOTICE
Do NOT connect or touch any wires to the terminal posts numbered 4 and 5 on
the back of the tachometer case. This means absolutely NO wire-hot, ground,
jumper, sender wire or otherwise should ever be connected to either of these posts
Connecting any wire to these posts can cause damage to the sensitive internal
electronic circuitry. Such damage is not covered by warranty.
37
CLASSIC QUARTZ CLOCK 3 3/8”
• Before beginning the installation, disconnect vehicle's battery. Failure to
do so could burn out the quartz movement and such damage is not covered
under your warranty.
• To keep the quartz clock operational even if the vehicle is parked or in
storage,Connect a 16-AWG wire from a dedicated 12-volt source to the B+
terminal on the back of the clock case. This 12-volt source wire must come
directly from the battery terminal of the starter solenoid.
• To cause the clock to go inactive (and not drain the battery) when the
vehicle is stored for an extended period of time such as several weeks or
months. Connect a 16-AWG wire from B+ terminal on the back of the
clock-case to the inactive side of the battery disconnect switch (this is the
side away from the battery).
• Connect a 16-AWG wire from the terminal post marked G on the back of
the clock case to a good negative ground point behind the dash-board.
With a single-throw toggle switch, push button or other momentary-type
switch install in a desirable location. Connect the two yellow wires from
location on the back of te clock case to the switch, you may extend the yellow wires to the needed length.
• Reconnect vehicles battery. The clock should now start to run. Since we
do not use a second-hand-you should wait a minute or more to determine if
the clock movement is running.
• To advance the time one minute, press the switch only once. To advance
more than a few minutes press and hold the switch until the desired time is
reached. The clocks' minute and hour hands will fast-forward. Release the
switch when the clock is almost reset to the correct time. To set the time
exactly the switch should be pushed only, once per minute you wish to
advance the minute hand.
IMPORTANT NOTICE
Should either the quartz movement, internal circuitry or electronic
components inside your clock be damaged due to a voltage surge or the
plus and negative wires being connected in reverse the unit will NOT
be covered under warranty.
38
CLASSIC INSTRUMENTS WIRING for INTERFACE Box
Speedo/Tach, 57, Tetra
Speedometer Promgrammming
Dip Switches
Dedicated Ground
to Chassis
White wire from
pulse sender
12 Volts From
Accessory
Side of the
Ignition
Not a
Hook-up
NO CONNECTION
Plug into
Back
of
Speedo/Tach
(use wiring included)
Keyed
12 Volt
Source
Plug into
Back
of
Speedo/Tach
(use wiring included)
Ground
to Chassis
Signal wire for Tachometer
From Negative (-) side of
Coil or Tach Filter
39
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR 2 1/8”, 3 3/8”, 4 5/8”
and 1957 Chevy Clock
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN BRACKET; TOO MUCH PRESSURE
CAN CAUSE GLASS LENS TO BREAK
• Before beginning the installation, disconnect vehicles battery. Failure to do so could
burn out the quartz movement and such damage is not covered under your warranty.
• To keep the quartz clock operational even if the vehicle is parked or in storage.
Connect a 16-AWG wire from a dedicated 12-volt source to the B+ terminal on the back
of the clock case. This 12-volt source wire must come directly from the battery terminal
of the starter solenoid.
• To cause the clock to go inactive (and not drain the battery) when the vehicle is stored
for an extended period of time connect a 16-AWG wire from B+ terminal on back of the
clock-case to the inactive side of the battery disconnect switch (this is the side away
from the battery).
• Connect a 16-AWG wire from the terminal post marked G on the back of the clock
case to a good negative ground point behind the dash-board.
• With a single-throw toggle switch, push button (which can be purchased through
Classic Instruments), or another momentary-type switch, install in a desirable location.
Connect the two yellow wires to the switch; you may extend the yellow wires to the
needed length.
• Reconnect the positive battery cable to your vehicles battery. The clock should now
start to run. Since we do not use a second-hand, you should wait a minute or more to
determine if the clock movement is running.
• To advance the time one minute-press the switch only once. To advance more than a
few minutes press and hold the switch until the desired time is reached. The clock’s
minute and hour hands will fast-forward. Release the switch when the clock is almost
reset to the correct time. To set the time exactly the switch should be pushed only once
per minute you wish to advance the minute hand.
IMPORTANT NOTICE
Should either the quartz movement,
internal circuitry, or electronic components inside your clock be damaged due to a voltage surge or the
positive and negative wires being
connected in reverse the unit will
NOT be covered under warranty.
Light
Socket
Mounting
Stud
1
To Ground
40
Mounting
Stud
2
To 12 Volt Battery
57 CLASSIC GAUGE SET
Step 1: Disconnect battery.
Step 2: Disassemble the dash, removing the original brackets and gauges.
Save the original bezels (Figure 1a and 1b). Your new gauge set utilizes the
original bezels for the ideal fit.
Step 3: With the dash face down on a flat surface, place the original bezels
in their proper locations, (Figure 2a). Note: The large center bezel has a
notch and the two small bezels each have two holes. The notch and the
holes should be placed at the bottom of the mounting openings.
Step 4: Insert the round center bracket (Figure 3b). Note: The top of the
bracket is indicated by the narrower notch and should be aligned with the
top of the gauge. (Figure 3a).
Step 5: Using 4 #6-32 x 5/8” screws and lock washers, firmly fasten the
bracket to the dash. Note: For the large gauge use star washers and for the
small gauges use spilt washers.
Step 6: Install the lights on the back of the small gauges (Figure 4c).
Step 7: Place small gauges in the original bezel (Figure 4b). Install a copper lock washer on each of the two mounting studs before installing the 3
3/4” bracket across the studs (Figure 4a). Install brackets by using 2 #8-32
x 1/2” screws and lock washers.
Step 8: Mount the black box under the dash - It is not waterproof.
Step 9: Connect the cables from the box to the back of the center gauge utilizing the corresponding plugs (Figure 5).
Insert picture (6) - YS
41
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
42-A
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
42-B
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR
57 Chevy/ Tetra Fuel Gauge
Step 1: Connect a wire from the signal post on the fuel sending unit to the
terminal post marked “S” on the back of the fuel gauge.
Step 2: Connect a wire from the terminal post on the back of the fuel gauge
marked “G” to a common ground terminal.
Step 3: Connect a wire from the terminal post on the back of the gauge
marked “I” to a 12-volt source. This connection should become “HOT”
when the key is turned “ON”.
Installation Instructions for 57 Chevy/Tetra
Step 1: Install the water temperature sender unit provided for your gauge in
the intake manifold. Make sure you do not use any Teflon tape or pipe
putty. Insert as deep as possible without over tightening.
Step 2: Connect a wire off the top terminal post on the sending unit to the
terminal post marked “S” on the back of the temperature gauge.
Step 3: Connect a wire from the terminal post marked “G” on the back of
the termpurature gauge to a common ground.
Step 4: Connect a wire from the terminal post marked “I” on the back of
the termperature gauge to the terminal post marked “I” on the back of the
fuel gauge for the 12-volt source.
Success for Classic Instruments, Inc. is a successful installation.
Please call us at 1-800-575-0461 between 8:00 and 5:00 Monday
through Friday for any and all technical questions.
43
Tachometer Installation Instructions for 57
Step 1: Locate the tachometer filter in your gauge set.
Step 2: Connect the yellow wire of the tachometer to TACH terminal post
on the black box.
Step 3: Connect the black wire of the tachometer filter to a ground point on
the engine block close to the distributor. DO NOT connect this wire to the
GRD post on the black box or a common ground.
Step 4: Connect the red wire of the Tachometer filter to the correct terminal
as determined by the brand and type of ignition system listed below.
Standard Points and Condenser System:
-Red wire to distributor side of coil (marked - ).
GMC -HEI (High energy ignition system):
-RED wire to “TACH” terminal on coil side of distributor cap.
MSD (Multiple Spark Discharge System):
Disregard tach and connect directly to tach outpost on side of MSD
box. If Tach does not respond, your MSD system may require a
MSD tach adapter No. 8910 or No. 8920.
Vertex Magneto Systems:
-Red wire to “kill” terminal screw-post on side of magneto body.
Accel Ignition Coils:
- Red wire to “distributr” side of ignition coil.
Mallory Ignition System:
-Red wire to “distributor side of ignition coil usually marked (-).
May require a tachometer selector.
Step 5: Connect a 16-AWG wire from the “GRD” terminal post on the
black box to a good ground point behind the dash.
Step: Connect a 16-AWG wire front the the “IGN” terminal post to a 12volt source (terminal strip of the fuse block) behind the dash.
44
16 Pulse - 57 Chevy /Tetra Speedometer
You will be wiring to the 3 studs on the black box just below the calibrating
dip switches marked as follows: IGN, GRD, SENSOR
Step 1: Connect a dedicated ground wire to the GRD post. From GRD post
connect to chassis.
Step 2: Connect pulse signal generator white wire lead, to the “sensor” terminal post.
Step 3: The next connection will be a 16-AWG wire from the accessory
side post of your key-start switch to the marked “IGN” terminal post.
Plug the square connector of the four-wire harness into the back of the
speedometer unit.
A-Black wire to a common ground.
B-Brown wire to the power source for the lights in the instrument.
C-Blue wire to the high beam indicator signal.
D-Grey wire to the oil pressure sender.
45
ADJUSTING YOUR ELECTRONIC SPEEDOMETER
Step 1: Refer to the chart below and find the MpH reading your speedometer was showing when you were pacing the car with the accurate speedometer at a true 60 MpH road speed.
Step 2: Find the switch numbers opposite the speedometer reading from
our speed test. A number indicates that switch must be turned ON (that is,
pushed in at the top).
Step 3: An asterisk (*) substituting for a number indicates that particular
switch number must be turned OFF (that is tipped in at the bottom) to correctly reprogram your speedometer.
Step 4: Should you ever change your tire or rim size, rear-end gearing, or
transmission you must make a brand-new road test staring again at Step 1
of this section on “Adjusting Your Electronic Speedometer.” Be certain the
rocker switches are always reset to the factory setting of 1*345***(1,3,4
and 5) On (same as 60 MpH on chart) before starting another road test.
If Speedo reads
41 MpH
42 MpH
43 MpH
44 MpH
45 MpH
46 MpH
47 MpH
48 MpH
49 MpH
50 MpH
51 MpH
52 MpH
53 MpH
54 MpH
55 MpH
56 MpH
57 MpH
58 MpH
59 MpH
60 MpH
61 MpH
62 MpH
63 MpH
64 MpH
65 MpH
66 MpH
67 MpH
68 MpH
69 MpH
70 MpH
71 MpH
72 MpH
73 MpH
74 MpH
75 MpH
76MpH
77 MpH
78 MpH
79 MpH
Same as
66 Kilo
68 Kilo
69Kilo
71 Kilo
72 Kilo
74 Kilo
76 Kilo
77 Kilo
79 Kilo
80 Kilo
82 Kilo
84 Kilo
85 Kilo
87 Kilo
89 Kilo
90 Kilo
92 Kilo
93 Kilo
95 Kilo
97 Kilo
98 Kilo
100 Kilo
101 Kilo
103 Kilo
105 Kilo
106 Kilo
108 Kilo
109 Kilo
111 Kilo
113 Kilo
114 Kilo
116 Kilo
117 Kilo
119 Kilo
121 Kilo
122 Kilo
123 Kilo
1253 Kilo
Set switches open
7, 10, 12
7, 8
7, 8, 9,11
6, 10, 12
6, 8
6, 8, 9, 11
6, 7, 10, 12
6, 7, 8
6, 7, 8, 9,11, 12
5, 10, 12
5, 8
5, 8, 9, 110, 12
5, 7, 10, 12
5, 7, 8
5, 7, 8, 9, 110, 12
5, 6, 10, 12
5, 6, 8
5, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12
5, 6, 7, 10, 12
Do not do anything, ,you are good to go.
4, 10, 12
4, 8
4, 8, 9, 11, 12
4, 7, 10, 12
4, 7, 8
4, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12
4, 6, 10, 12
4, 6, 8
4, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12
4, 6, 7, 10, 12
4, 6, 7, 8
4, 6, 7, 8, 10, 12
4, 5, 10, 11
4, 5, 8
4, 5, 8, 9, 11, 12
4, 5, 7, 10, 11
4, 5, 7, 8
4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12
4, 5, 6, 10, 11
46
16 PULSE FROM SGI-5 B (SN75)
CONVERTING 4,000 PULSES TO 16,000
Step 1:
Switch Settings:
#1 ON
#2 OFF
#3 OFF
#4 OFF
Step 2: Quick preset (two buttons after switches) press both buttons down until the
green LED lights.
Step 3: Once Green LED lights turn switch #4 to the ON setting.
Step 4: Ouput #2 is used for the 16 pulse signal.
CONVERTING 125,000 PULSES TO 16,000
Step 1:
Switch Settings:
#1 OFF
#2 OFF
#3 OFF
#4 OFF
Step 2: Quick preset (two buttons after switches) press both buttons down until the
green LED lights.
Step 3: Once Green LED lights turn switch #3 and #4 to the ON setting.
Step 4: Ouput #4 is used for the 16 pulse signal.
SN75 CONVERTER BOX
ELECTRONIC TRANSMISSION
12 Volt accessory power
GROUND
8000 ppm output
Speed input signal
47
Classic Instruments
LIGHT
SWITCH
L
•
G
Batt
•
•
“S” Termi
of Voltme
is not use
TACHOMETER
L
S
G
VOLT
•
•
Yellow
I
S
•
•
TACH FILTER
Red
L
G
Black
TEMPERATURE
S
+
_____
____
___
___
S
COIL
Ground to
Engine Block
_____
____
___
___
Ground
_____
____
___
___
Ground
BATTERY
48
TEMPERAT
SENDER
--- Wiring Diagram
To ACC on
Key Start Switch
IGNITION
SWITCH
Ground to Chassis
_____
____
___
___
L
Batt
inal
eter
ed
S
G
SPEEDOMETER
L
G
OIL
•
S
S
TRANSMISSION
•
•
L
G
•
FUEL
S
I
_____
____
___
___
_____
____
___
___
Ground
Ground
TURE
R
OIL PRESSURE
SENDER
_____
____
___
___
Ground
FUEL SENDER
LEAKING TRANSMISSION FLUID
GMC Turbo 350 or 400: If automatic transmission fluid appears to be leaking from
“inside” our pulse signal generator - a missing or broken GMC seal inside the threaded GM-cable/gear plug is most likely the cause.
The most common seal used is GM turbo 350 or 400 transmissions is GM part number 1240382. This seal is a GMC and must be purchased from either your GMC dealer or local auto part store. Auto transmission fluid leaking from inside your pulse signal generator is NOT an indication the pulse signal generator is defective.
Ford Installations: For the Ford drive-train application we have furnished a Ford
hard-coupler (Part No. SN 95). This hard-coupler will fit most C4 automatics or 4speed manual transmissions from Ford Motor Company.
Before installing the Ford hard-coupler into the transmission, transfer the
original plastic gear and spring-steel retaining clip from the bottom end of your
original Ford speedometer cable to the lower end of your hard-coupler. Installing the
Ford hard-coupler into the transmission will be just the opposite of the removal
sequence of the stock Ford cable.
49
NOTES
NOTES
NOTES
NOTES
Classic Instruments, Inc.
P.O. Box 411 or 1299 M-75 South
Boyne City, Michigan 49712 USA
Technical Assistance
231-582-0461 or 800-575-0461
U.S.A. $3.00

Classic Inst. Manual 2004

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