A Guide to Understanding and Retraining Your Off Track

A Guide to Understanding
and
Retraining Your Off Track Thoroughbred
Revised May 2011 Edition
By Kimberly Clark
This guide is intended to help anyone who has gotten a Thoroughbred
off the track or is considering taking one into their lives. My hope is to
make it easier for more people to transition horses successfully from
racing careers. I believe that many people have an interest in working
with off track Thoroughbreds, but they need the information in order
to be successful.
Presented by
Leighton Farm
www.LeightonFarm.com
and
Thoroughbred Placement and Rescue, Inc.
www.GoodHorse.org
Kimberly Clark created this book to help spread
the word about retiring racehorses.
Thoroughbred Placement and Rescue, Inc. is
distributing it at no charge because we feel this
will help you to have a better understanding of
the off-track Thoroughbred.
We need your support to continue our work.
Donations of both money and items are important
to our survival.
We are always looking for volunteers to help in
every aspect of our work.
Go to www.GoodHorse.org
or call
301-579-6898
Monetary donations can be mailed to:
13130 Molly Berry Road
Upper Marlboro, MD 20772
Thank you
A Guide For Future and Present OTTB Owners
edited by Trish Hechter Bosley
Contents
Why choose a Thoroughbred off the track?
How Racehorses are Started
Life at the Racetrack
Feeding The Racehorse
The People who work with racehorses
Grooms
Hotwalkers
Trainers
Exercise Riders
Jockeys
Handling The Horses At The Racetrack
Tack
How they are ridden at the track
Where do Trainers and Owners Get Horses?
What happens to racehorses when they are not competitive?
You’re Ready to Start Looking
So you bought a horse off the track, now what do you do?
Tips for Retraining and Riding Your New Thoroughbred
Behavior Modification
About Longeing
About Mounting
Riding your new off track Thoroughbred
Power Walking
Turning
Use of the Reins and Hands
Canter Work
About Running Off
The Pony
First Ride
Introducing Jumping
Going to a new place
Racing Terminology
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Introduction
In November 2007, I began
promoting off the track
Thoroughbreds for sale to the
public. The response has been
phenomenal. I am confident there
are many people interested in
getting a horse off the track,
though some hesitate because
they need guidance and good
information. I have not found a
comprehensive resource
explaining both how racehorses live while in training on the track, and how to handle
and retrain them once they leave the racetrack environment.
My goal is to provide information to
aid anyone who has, or is interested
in having an ottb. I believe a person
with a working knowledge of horses
is capable of handling a horse off the
track, when they have this added
information to understand these
wonderful horses.
This is a work in progress and I am
encouraging you to contact me with
your questions so I can add and
modify the contents of this book. I
plan to do my best to make this as
comprehensive a resource as
possible. I am also hoping that those
of you with experience in retraining
ottb's will help me with your knowledge and experiences. There are so many
misconceptions about how Thoroughbreds are handled and trained at the track.
Misinformation is the cause. I plan to correct these misconceptions by explaining the
behaviors of an ottb that are a result of their race training and environment.
Why Choose a Thoroughbred Off the Track?
Why choose a Thoroughbred off the track?
Let's begin by talking about the advantages of choosing a Thoroughbred off the track.
Your money absolutely buys more when you purchase a retiring racehorse. This is a
horse that's been professionally trained and ridden.
Riders at the track must be licensed. They are monitored for competence and can lose
their license to ride at the track if their riding skills are not kept to the required
level. Most racehorses are started by professionals with specialized skills in this field.
When horses are handled by professionals, they are given a more solid foundation.
Your work is built on this solid foundation.
Racehorses are handled consistently from the age of one. By the age of two, many
have had exposure to cars, trucks and tractors. They have been around different people, and know how to be worked with and around other horses. You get a horse that’s
already started and well traveled.
They train with each other and also
around other horses while doing a
completely different activity. This is
good preparation for transitioning to
the warm up ring at a horse show, riding in groups on trails, or being in the
field of a fox chase. Racehorses are
already prepared to work around other
horses.
They have learned how to focus on
their rider while as many as 25 or more
horses are training around them. Activities of the other horses include galloping,
jogging, breezing, breaking from the gate and even acting up. They are used to loud
noises. They are usually good shippers because regular travel is a part of racing.
Racehorses receive daily handling, including grooming, bathing, therapy and training.
There are few other places horses are exposed to so many different people regularly.
It is normal for them to have different riders. Even if there is a regular daily rider, the
jockey on race day is different. Grooms come and go at the track; trainers often switch
a horse’s groom for training reasons. There are vets, blacksmiths, tattoo man, horse
identifier, just to name a few more people who are important in the racehorse’s daily
life.
Imagine the cost in time and money to educate a horse to all these things. These are
great preparation for taking a horse to a show or other new experiences.
Thoroughbreds are fantastic athletes; they are bred for this ability. To build on this
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trait, these horses are ridden most every day. This is more evidence of the solid
foundation many racehorses receive. They are well developed both physically and
mentally. I know of no other way to purchase a horse that's had access to daily
medical care, consistent training and professionals for such a low price.
Thoroughbreds are generally smart and sensitive animals. I admit I am biased
because this is my breed of choice, they have so much to offer it was easy to be
swayed their way.
They are able to learn quickly and think out solutions. This is a major reason they are
so successful in transitioning to other disciplines after racing. There are many
different types of Thoroughbred within the breed - big boned, refined, tall, small, and
everything in between.
This is what James Wofford says in his book, Training The Three - Day Event Horse
and Rider:
"For Preliminary three-day events a well-prepared horse of any breeding, given that
he has the jumping ability, can successfully complete the event. Past that, as the rider
promotes himself and his horse up the ladder, it becomes increasingly important that
the horse have some Thoroughbred blood. Probably at the Advanced, World
Championship, and Olympic level, it will be impossible for a horse to make the time
over a modern event course without a vast majority of Thoroughbred blood running
through his veins.
There has been in the recent past a trend toward European warmbloods because of
their jumping ability and dressage paces. These horses do well at the lower levels, but
they get tired and let you down at the more important, longer competitions.
Therefore, I only recommend warmbloods, half-breds, and so on, to riders who are
competing at the lowest levels. After that, I make every effort to be sure that my
students are mounted on Thoroughbreds."
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How Racehorses are Started
How Racehorses are Started
The two basic types of operations that play the role in starting a youngster destined to
become a racing competitor are large training facilities and small private farms. This is
a generalization, as is much of the information given in this a book, I cannot cover
every variable in this writing. These two categories encompass most of the
factors involved in the breaking/starting process.
Traditionally, yearlings are green broke in the fall and given most of the winter months
off to grow. They return to training in the early spring as two year olds. With milder
winters, all weather footing and the desire to make the horse training more economical, many people continue training throughout the winter getting them to the track in
the early spring. Still others start them early in their two-year-old year.
People who work with babies are a special breed. Not all exercise riders are
comfortable riding babies. Patience and the ability to "sit chilly" under very exciting
circumstances, are mandatory.
Most exercise riders learn their art on the farm, before moving to the track. Many
riders who work with babies on the farms also follow them to the track. This practice
provides continuity between rider and horse, limiting some of the potential problems
and providing confidence for the youngster in new experiences and situations. Riding
babies is an amazing experience because they are finding their way before humans
have imprinted their issues and habits upon the willing equine. Like human children
equine children learn quickly.
In the east, most of the large training
facilities are in south. The Carolinas
and Florida offer weather that allows
consistent training throughout the
year. Large facilities can have over a
hundred horses in training. Training
tracks are available at many larger
farms. This allows the youngster to be
familiar with their workspace in an
environment they know before
having to be shipped off the farm.
As is true in every equestrian discipline, each facility has their own program to teach
the young horse how to become a racehorse. Some people teach the babies to drive
with long lines before backing them. The more popular way today is to start them in a
stall or round pen and go right to the training track. There are advantages and
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disadvantages to starting a horse this way. The focus in this type of training is track
readiness - period. These horses are not being taught how to be ridden, only how to
race.
Many racehorses have stronger muscle development on the left side due to the fact
horses run counter clockwise in America. Hills and uneven ground are rare encounters
for many horses that begin their careers in facilities such as these.
This style of starting horses does not cater to the show/pleasure world. However, the
horse can be educated to the riding world outside of the racetrack when the time
comes.
Smaller facilities usually do not have a
training track. Babies receive individual
attention, creating an atmosphere where
the youngster is taught more about
being a horse rather than a commodity. There is often more time to teach
these soon to be racehorses to trail ride
and to be ridden quietly with others
hacking about. When available hills are
used to build wind in the horses and to
gallop across uneven ground in fields.
I have done my fair share of beginning
racehorses on my small farm over the years. The advantages in getting a horse
started this way are numerous if you're looking for a show/pleasure horse.
I do not believe where a horse began his career is a reason to buy or not to buy a
particular individual. If this information is offered, it is worth knowing so you can plan
a more thorough re-education of your new horse off the track. There is no such thing
as too much information when acquiring a “new to you” racehorse.
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Life at the Racetrack
Life at the Racetrack
It is important to understand the way Thoroughbred racehorses live at the track. This
gives valuable insight into many behaviors that seem strange. My theory is the best
way to prepare to retrain a horse is to understand who he is. Much of who your new
former racehorse is comes from how he was "raised" and trained up to the point when
you got him. It's easy to get background information on a former racehorse by
making use of racing charts and the public nature of racing.
Racehorses live a very regular routine. This is due in part, to the training hours of
most tracks and training centers. Horses thrive when they live in a predictable
routine. It must be noted that horses like to know what is going on around them.
They are very curious and social. They want to know what happens during their day,
especially in stressful situations. They are more confident when they can count on
scheduled events such as feeding and training times.
Most tracks are open at 5:30 or 6 a.m. for training. Tracks usually close all facilities
around 10 to 11 a.m. Southern tracks may open and close earlier to beat the
heat. This means the track is available to horses for exercise, in addition to the use of
all other training equipment available at that racecourse during these hours.
A typical day at the track varies little from stable to stable. The day begins around 4
a.m. with the grooms arriving. Water buckets are cleaned and refilled, feed tubs are
removed and cleaned. The stalls are mucked and bandages removed for leg inspection. Horses that are not training that day are walked by hand. Those who are to be
ridden are groomed, saddled and sent to the track where they might jog, gallop or
breeze. Upon the horse’s return to the barn, the groom and hot walker are waiting to
take the horse from the rider, who is anxious to get on their next mount.
If it’s warm, the horse gets a bath,
otherwise he gets a cooler put on
him. Either way he is walked for 20
to 30 minutes. After the day’s
training, it is time to bandage, the
farrier may be scheduled, massage,
chiro adjustments, acupuncture and
other therapy treatments are done as
needed. As the morning activities
wind down the horse is fed his breakfast and left to relax for the remainder of the day. His dinner meal is
typically between 4 to 5 p.m. Some
horses are fed a small meal upon the groom’s arrival in the morning too.
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Race day is the day where there is change. On that day, most trainers walk the horse
early in the morning. There are horses that go to the track early on race day. Most
are trained very lightly. All other care and duties are scheduled around the time of the
race.
Feeding The Racehorse
The quality and quantity of food the average racehorse receives is stunning to most
people unfamiliar with the rigors of racing. The physical demands of racing require
maximum effort from the horse.
Most racehorses are young and growing. They are put into a level of work which is
extremely demanding. It is not uncommon for a Thoroughbred to continue growing
through the age of 5 years; some do not finish until they are 7 years old. Remember
this when you are assessing prospects at the track.
On average, 14 lbs. of an 11% or 12% protein, high quality
sweet feed is fed per day to each racehorse. Depending on the
size and metabolism of each individual horse, some horses get
much more. A poultice bucket like this one is seen in many
shedrows, set up for dinner.
High quality Timothy hay along with alfalfa
is fed free choice. Many times hay nets
filled to the maximum are found hanging
outside the door of each stall. The horse
can look out the door and munch hay all
day.
This keeps the horse “in the loop” with all the activities going on
in the shed row. This practice helps limit the nervous tendencies
that can be created in a bored horse.
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This diet, fed consistently, would make the calmest horse "high" in spirits. Many
trainers feed a bran mash once a week or after a race. It is easy on the digestive
system of the hard working racehorse, much appreciated after the stress of exertion
during a race.
Supplements, electrolytes, multivitamins, joint supplements, vitamin e and selenium,
blood builders, ulcer treatments, just to name a few, can be added to the athlete’s
diet. Horsemen at the track are asking so much of their horses, they feel a
responsibility to give them all support possible.
The racetrack is a great place if you are a "horse hypochondriac". Vets stop by your
barn every day, creating an environment and rapport to encourage the trainer to have
any horse looked over should they have any questions or concerns. Often there is
several vets in a practice giving the trainer an option of more than one opinion on the
problem a horse has.
I love this, because I gallop my own horses. If one of the horses hit the ground in a
different way while galloping, I can have a vet take a look immediately. I know my
horses have received the best possible care due to the direct access to veterinary
attention.
Track vets have a vast array of experience, by the sheer numbers of horses they look
at in the course of a day. As an extra bonus they usually have access to state of the
art equipment, such as digital radiographs, ultrasound for tendons and soft tissue,
endoscope and on and on.
In comparison a farm vet has to drive from farm to farm, making it impossible for
them to see as many horses in a given day.
The People who work with Racehorses
All persons who work on the backstretch must be licensed by the state in which they
work. This includes trainers, hotwalkers, grooms and jockeys. Vendors, vets,
blacksmiths and even owners must be licensed to enter the backstretch. Each
applicant must meet specific conditions in order to obtain a license. All licensees
undergo a criminal background check complete with fingerprinting. They are subject to
random drug tests as well.
Trainers must have been licensed on the backstretch for two years before they are
eligible to take the trainer's test.
Exercise riders must undergo a trial period in which they illustrate competent riding
skills. This license can be taken away at anytime if the rider is deemed dangerous or
incompetent.
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Grooms
Grooms are the fundamental caretakers of
the racehorse while they are at the track.
This is a salaried position for a person to
care for an average of four horses during
the course of each day. Their duties
include going over the legs and physical
structure of the horse.
Saddling the horse in the morning and
getting the rider on and taking the horse
from the rider when he comes back from
the track. He administers any therapy or additional care such as bandaging legs,
ultrasound, nebulizer, magnetic therapy, ice, just to name a few.
Race day brings its own set of responsibilities for the
groom. They include all morning preparations, pre-race
treatments that are not the responsibility of the foreman or trainer. Grooms accompany the horse on the
van or trailer to the racecourse. The van departs at a
specified time, being late is not an option. The horse
has to be bridled, bandaged, and receive any other
preps before the horse goes over to the paddock. If
the horse is on Lasix, it must be administered at a
specified time.
Grooms lead the horse to the paddock from his stall/
barn at a specific time and being late is forbidden; the
groom holds the horse while the trainer saddles him in
the paddock. The horse is led to the track once the
jockey is mounted and handed to the pony rider, if he
has one. The groom picks the horse up on the track
after the race and holds him while the jockey and his valet unsaddle him. He then
leads the horse back to the receiving barn and cools him out, if he has no hotwalker.
This is a very long day for the groom. The day may begin at 4:30 a.m. and not end
until the wee hours of the morning, if the horse is in a late race. This doesn’t matter,
they are in the barn the next morning to care for their charges.
Being a groom is a very demanding job, both physically and mentally. Most grooms
are devoted to their horses and work long hours to give them a competitive edge and
a good life. Trust me when I tell you they are not doing this for the money, they do it
for the love of the horse.
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Hotwalkers
A hotwalker is a person who walks horses (it
can be a machine). Traditionally, there is one
groom to 4 horses - one hotwalker to each
groom. Now that is not always the case,
because good help is hard to find and finances
tend to limit the staff trainers have. There are
freelance hotwalkers meaning they are paid for
each horse they walk, they are not a regular
member of the trainer’s staff.
Hotwalkers and grooms take the horse from the
rider when he comes back from the track. If
the horse gets a bath, the hotwalker holds him while the groom bathes him. The
walker walks the horse until he is cool. Usually around the shedrow for 20 to 30 minutes. If the horse is not training that day, the hotwalker walks him "cold", meaning he
did not get hot from training.
Salaried hotwalkers usually rake up and clean around the barn. They may fill hay nets
and assist the groom they are assigned to with any care of the horse requiring an
extra set of hands. Hotwalkers also go to the races and assist the groom.
There are mechanical hotwalkers; they are quite common at some tracks. I cannot
comment much on their use because I have not had a lot of experience with them.
One machine that is
used in Maryland is the
Equiciser. It can be
used as a hotwalker,
most trainers use it to
give the horse an easy
day of training. Again,
I do not have much
experience with them.
When a horse is walked or led it is very different from the way show and pleasure
horses lead. Think of leading pure power around. The hotwalker usually puts the
chain over the horse’s nose and many of the horse’s bow their necks as if on the bit.
Some pull the walker around the shedrow others are as light as air. The hotwalker
remains very close to the horse at his shoulder. When they are really feeling good or
“sharp” as we call it, they may even jig around the shedrow. I have often said it’s like
leading a helium balloon around the barn.
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Trainers
Trainers are responsible for everything connected to the racehorse. The pressure a
trainer carries is incredible. Horses are living, thinking creatures, so the trainer is in
effect responsible for something that he cannot completely control.
Every trainer has come across a horse possessed of incredible talent who refuses to
use it. If they do not want to do it, there is little you can do. Imagine explaining this
to the owner. Trainers make all decisions about the handling and care of the racehorse
Upon arrival at the barn each morning most trainers check each horse over. They look
at them, feel their legs, ask the groom if they ate breakfast or possibly dinner from the
night before. They make decisions about what the horse will do that day. Most
trainers maintain a training chart, typically updating and adjusting the plan for the
following day after training each day. Training instructions are subject to change even
after the horse is on the track, does this sound familiar – training plans are subject to
change in every discipline.
Depending on the individual horse, fitness is only part of his training. The young horse
has to be taught how to gallop. He learns how to extend his stride when increasing
speed. Rhythm is a key factor in this, just as in other disciplines. The horse will learn
to make longer strides, not more strides.
The trainer also makes decisions about all aspects of the horse’s general welfare
including veterinary care. Remember, racehorses are athletes and this means their
caretakers spend a lot of time and energy making certain they are comfortable and
healthy.
Trainers are responsible for entering the horse in the best race for that horse on any
given day. That may sound simple, but there are many different types of races from
which the trainer must choose. The following is a brief overview of the most common
types of races.
Claiming races are the most common races in Thoroughbred racing. The owner or
trainer enters the horse for a specified price. I have seen them as low as $1,200 and
as high as $100,000. At the end of such a race, if a claim has been made, the horse
has been sold and has a new owner. The horse is immediately taken to his new barn
and money is transferred into the seller’s account. Maiden Claiming is the same as a
claiming race, but all horses entered have never won a race.
Allowance races are the next step up in class. A race where how much weight the
horse carries, and eligibility to enter are determined by conditions set by the racing
secretary. Horses cannot be claimed from these races. Maiden Special Weight is
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considered a Maiden Allowance race. The horse cannot be claimed and the purse is
much bigger, but the competition is much stiffer. Maiden means the horse has never
won a race.
Stakes races are the next step up in class and difficulty from Allowance races. Horses
cannot be claimed from these. I'll go over a few of the types of stakes races.
The Overnight Stake is an informal stakes race. It is one way to give a horse a chance
at black type. Entries close a specified number of hours before running. Many stakes
races close nominations for the race entries far in advance.
An Ungraded Stake is not awarded Graded status by the governing committee. This
committee examines and rates stakes races each year. Graded Stakes are the most
important or prestigious races in North America. They are assigned grades (I, II, or
III) based on the quality of previous winners and the race's influence on other races or
championships.
A Handicap is a race where the racing secretary or track handicapper assigns the
weights to be carried in an attempt to make the competition more even. Typically, the
horses who made the most money are assigned the most weight to carry.
There are conditions associated with all types of races. The purpose of conditions is to
make it easier for a less experienced horse or one who has not been winning, to win a
race. It may be as simple as the jockey of a horse who has not won a race this year
gets to be a couple pounds lighter.
A common race condition is for horses who have not won two, three or four
races. Most racehorses never win even one race. The more races a horse has won,
the tougher it is to win another. Once a horse is through these conditions and has to
run in open company, he is much less desirable to the trainer and owner for it is less
likely he will be able to make money or support his training bills.
Races are also separated by age and sex. It is rare for geldings/stallions to run
against fillies/mares. Two and three year olds have races restricted to only their age.
The most common races are for three years old and up.
Trainers communicate and socialize with their owners. A successful trainer is a good
horseman and a diplomat. Owners can be very passionate about their aspirations and
desires, this can sometimes cause discord.
Many trainers select racing prospects. To be successful, he needs to be educated in
confirmation and bloodlines. Time is spent attending sales and studying horses
available or desired to be claimed. Some owners, depending on their talent with
breeding principles breed their own horses making this a sometimes blessing or curse.
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Most trainers are present on race day. If the horse is late to the paddock the trainer is
fined. A licensed trainer is required to saddle the horse in the paddock. When the
trainer of record cannot be there he has to arrange for another licensed trainer to
saddle the horse if there is no Assistant Trainer with that outfit. The first two finishers
in a race are drug tested along with a random choice. Any positive is regarded as the
trainer's responsibility.
A person who breeds and owns his own horses may become a trainer so he can train
his own horses. It is common for a groom or exercise rider to train his own
horse. Jockeys who hold a trainer's license may only ride their own horses, because it
is considered a conflict for them to ride the horses of others.
There are large public racing stables that regularly take on new owners, other large
stables are private working for one successful owner. The same is true of small racing
stables, they may be public or private.
Each trainer has his own training style, with the goal of winning races. Unlike most
riding disciplines, the racehorse’s job is not to carry the rider. It’s the job of the rider
to signal the horse and then stay out of his way so he can do his job. Carrying the
rider is a foreign concept. The trainer who bullies the horse into submission sacrifices
the spirit of the horse in the process. By fostering this spirit, the horse can produce
his true potential.
Good equine trainers nurture and enhance the brilliance of the horse, rather than
dampen and discourage this brilliance in and attempt to get submission.
Keep in mind when you come on the backstretch searching for your perfect horse,
trainers are not in the business of selling horses and tend to focus on their duties constantly.
Exercise Riders
Exercise riders come in all shapes and sizes. While it is
possible to be too heavy or too tall, each trainer determines what his needs are. The average weight of an exercise rider is 130 pounds – I have seen riders weighing
up to 175 pounds at most tracks I have been to. Trainers may have a lighter rider or jockey breeze the horse,
but the every day guy generally weighs much more than
a jockey.
The job of the exercise rider is to gallop the horse so he
will become fit enough to race and to teach the horse to
be rideable for the jockey. Exercise riders typically ride with much longer stirrups than
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jockeys. They do not use their legs the same as the show ring rider, though the horses
tend to be more used to leg aids than some may think. Exercise riders teach the
horse aids that are refined enough so the jockey can focus on riding the race.
The task of the exercise rider is not the same as that of the jockey. One important job
of this rider is to school each horse to the starting gate. A Thoroughbred must get a
gate card, which means the horse is deemed to be educated and safe at the gate. A
race is not the place to school a Thoroughbred. That must be done in the morning.
Jockeys
Riding as a jockey is very different from the job of an exercise rider. The duty of the
jockey is to guide the horse through traffic to win the race, executing the instructions
of the trainer. Jockeys are responsible for many decisions in a very short amount of
time. The incredible strength required by the jockey is mostly so he can remain quiet
and interfere with the horse as little as possible. Most of the time, the fitter the horse,
the more responsive he is. This is one of the reasons to let him down before you
retrain him.
Jockeys usually do not ride the horse on a daily basis. Most of the time they show up
to breeze the horse regularly or at least once before the race. It is common for a
jockey to ride a horse for the first time in a race. This requires them to be experts at
reading horses to figure out how to ride them in minutes. Most racetrackers know
that a horse will tell you everything you need to know about him, if you listen. John,
(JK) Adams, says that horses change from race to race so it’s always necessary to
assess the horse, even if you’ve ridden him regularly. What’s important is how he is
today.
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One important skill is to know what to ask the horse, whether it be a little more or a
bit less, and to use only the aids to get that exact amount of response. Asking for too
much run at the wrong time requires the rider to take the horse back which can cost
the race. On the other side is asking for too little and the hole you want to go through
closes up before you get there.
Jockeys must also study the other horses in the race and try to guess how it will
unfold. They then try to position themselves and the horse to win the race.
All plans are subject to change as the race unfolds.
Breaking from the gate is paramount to a good result. Many races are lost because of
a poor start. The jockey must become an expert at staying in the center of the horse’s
motion at a time when there is considerable acceleration.
Even the warm up before the race can make a difference to the outcome. of the race.
Some horses take quite a bit of warming up, while others must be kept on their toes.
I could write a book just on race riding, but that is not the goal of this writing. I will
comment that both the rider and the horse are under considerable pressure during a
race and the partnership they form is a very close one in most cases, even though it is
developed in a short amount of time.
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Handling The Horses At The Racetrack
The way horses are handled at the track is very different from the way show and riding horses are handled. Many of these habits occur due to time restraints. Some of
these have to be adjusted once the horse is no longer in a race training environment.
• All four of the racehorse's feet are picked from the left side of
the horse.
• Horses are tied on a tie chain located in the back of the stall.
• They are taught to move over with the voice command
“over”, when being worked on or while the stall is being
cleaned.
• Horses are walked around the shedrow in a counterclockwise
direction. They are allowed to pull against the person walking
them.
• Racehorses are allowed to jig and play while being ridden to and from the track. The
rider disregards this behavior and just sits there very relaxed. The horse is expected
to stop this behavior and focus on training when the rider signals. Racehorses are
allowed to be strong and do a fair amount of carrying on at times. However, they are
expected to go directly from this behavior to obedient when necessary.

They behave during their “highest” times. As on race
day upon entering the paddock, the horse identifier
checks the tattoo as the horse enters the paddock. The
lesson is: do not think your new horse won’t listen to you
when he’s strongly reacting to something. Chances are
when you tell him to behave, he will.

Most racehorses are accustomed to shipping on horse
vans or roomy trailers. I don’t know why but you rarely
see a tag a long on the track. Consequently, they usually can’t believe you want them to get on a what seems
to them to be a tiny trailer. Patience will prevail. If you
try to force them they will resist. If you work with them
and apply a bit of patience with firm encouragement, they will go on. Since I’ve
been doing this I’ve come to understand why many outsiders think racehorses have
problems shipping. The explanation most of them offer is that they think they’re
going to the races so they won’t go on the trailer. That couldn’t be further from
the truth, usually it’s because they’ve never walked into something so cramped and
they need a moment to realize you really do want them to get on that thing.
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Tack
Many racehorses wear a noseband of some kind. A figure 8 is used to help keep the
horse’s mouth closed. When a shadow roll is used it is to encourage the horse to
lower his head.
The reins are usually 1” wide and
covered in textured rubber. Thin
reins would cut into the rider's
hands. Thicker reins make it
easier to keep a consistent rein
length which is imperative in
galloping racehorses.
Exercise saddles have a “half” tree making them smaller and lighter than saddles used
in other disciplines.
The tree is in the front of the saddle to protect the withers. I have placed a close
contact event saddle next to the exercise saddle to give perspective to the size.
To the left you will see the picture of the “large” Jockey
saddle, notice how much smaller it is than the exercise
saddle. It is held in place by a girth and an over girth.
Look at the length of the stirrups. Yikes!
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To the right I have placed a picture of
some of the most commonly used bits
at the track. Please keep in mind that
each trainer has his own training
beliefs and those pictured are no
representative of every bit you find at
the track.
The top bit is a leather prong bit, a
very kind bit. The prongs are used to
exert pressure, assisting the rider
when the horse has trouble steering.
Otherwise, it's just a fat, straight, loose
ring bit.
The next bit is commonly called an
elevator bit and is only used on horses
that are tough to hold. This bit allows
the rider to lift the horse’s head up.
Probably the most common bit is next,
the d - bit. It's a snaffle style bit with D
cheek pieces, it comes in many
thicknesses.
The egg butt is my favorite and is also
the favorite of many other trainers and
riders. This, too, is a snaffle style bit.
The name refers to the shape of the
bit’s cheek pieces.
The loose ring, straight rubber bit is a favorite for babies.
Last is the ring bit, another snaffle type bit, it can have side prongs to aid in steering
issues. The horse plays with the ring and this seems to comfort and entertain many of
them, this keeps the young horse from becoming bored too quickly.
Both German martingales and draw reins are used at the track. Their use is usually
reserved for special circumstances when the horse is either too tough to hold any
other way, or to help with a star gazer. Once a horse learns to be controlled with
either draw reins or the German martingale, it will be difficult to transition him to
traveling in a correct body shape.
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The yoke or neckstrap, as it’s called in other disciplines, is a strap that goes around the neck in front of
the saddle with another strap between the legs
attaching to the girth.
In racing, the yoke is sometimes used to clip rings to. Rings
are similar to a running martingale. They have a rectangular
piece of leather or nylon with a clip to attach it to the
yoke. There are two rings on the other two corners for the
reins go through.
The main reason for a yoke is for safety. The yoke is the
exercise rider's best friend. Most riders at the track will have a
finger or two in it at all times. This habit prevents harsh hand
movements which happen when the horse makes a sudden
move and the rider is caught unprepared. This habit will save
the rider's life on a horse that rears and it keeps the rider from
pulling back on the horse's mouth, sometimes resulting in pulling the horse over in the process.
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How they are ridden at the track
Race riding is basically based on Classical Horsemanship, mostly because this is the
most efficient way to communicate with a horse. There is nothing more natural to a
Thoroughbred than to run. More than that, Classical horsemanship is based on the
cause and effect of the aids. Not teaching the horse to respond to a signal. Any horse
will pick up his lead if you place more weight in the inside stirrup and use your leg
when the inside hind leg is coming forward. You don’t teach them that, they come
that way.
There are many different riding styles at the track. The goal is to accomplish the
trainer’s instructions. As in any riding discipline, there are good and bad riders.
Exercise riders have a different job than a jockey. They teach the horse his job and
also execute the training of the day. Jockeys ride races.
Balance is the foundation to correct exercise riding. Transference of the rider’s body
weight with the hands placed down on the withers, is the main means of communication. Pulling on the reins is an accelerator. Tough horses pull harder when the rider
pulls harder or they run off. Racehorses are on the forehand because they are faster
when they move that way, not because the riders do not know how to get a horse to
use his rear end. Forward, as in forward going, is very important to the exercise
rider. The lack of forwardness in any gait is a signal that something unpleasant is
about to happen.
◊ CENTERED RIDING - One of the fundamentals to good exercise riding is being in
the center of the motion of the horse. The rider’s weight is in the center of the horse’s
motion. The rider’s weight is over his feet. I explain it this way when teaching someone to gallop: Imagine your body weighs 100 pounds. 80 pounds of that weight is in
your butt. Staying in the center is how exercise riders and jockeys stay on. There is
no amount of brute strength that will keep you on a horse.
◊ RIDING AHEAD OF CENTER - Being in front of the motion of a racehorse is not a
good place to be. If the horse stumbles or takes a bad step, the rider risks a dirt
bath. There is one time when a rider might be a little ahead of the motion, and that is
coming out of the starting gate. It does have its cost at times. In an attempt to free
up the horse to get out of the gate, the rider is forward over the horse’s shoulders,
ahead of the motion to facilitate a quick departure. During that moment if the ground
breaks away or the horse stumbles the jockey pays the price, many times, by coming
off.
◊ RIDING BEHIND CENTER - There are reasons riders get behind the motion. To
accomplish this, the rider keeps his hands down and shifts the weight behind the vertical for a stride or two, think of it as a half halt on the galloping horse. Eventers use
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this same technique while galloping cross country. By causing the horse to work
harder, this balance shift temporarily impedes the forward momentum of the horse.
Many really tough horses can be “held” to a slow gallop by keeping the rider’s hands
down and shifting the weight behind the vertical for the entire ride. The rider must
remain completely still during this time, demanding great body – core and legs strength.
In the picture left, the rider in
front is holding and the other
rider is allowing the horse to
run. Perhaps the trainer
instructed them to stay together
and the horse behind is not keeping up, so the horse on the lead
must be held.
◊ STAYING OUT OF THE WAY Doing the least to impede the horse’s motion is a major goal of the exercise rider. By
doing so the horse is able to jog and gallop with ease.
Racehorses are allowed to "take hold" of the bit. The horse takes a hold of the rider,
not the rider taking a hold of the horse. The object is to interfere with the horse as
little as possible. The rider places his hands down on the horse’s neck by the withers,
relaxes his joints so they work like shock absorbers, creating the space for the horse to
to find his balance.
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Racehorses are signaled, by their rider, where they are to pull up or stop. In a normal
gallop, the horse is prepared a ¼ mile or more before he is to pull up. When watching
a race, notice the horses pull up and head home at least a half mile after passing the
finish line.
◊ GALLOPING SPEEDS - There are different gears within the gallop gait employed
during training. Horses must be educated to gallop correctly. The main difference
between galloping and running is determined by the length of stride the horse
takes. To increase the speed in the gallop means the horse is extending his
stride. Running has the horse taking more steps to increase the speed. These extra
steps during running tires the horse quickly.
The term Hobby horse is the slowest version of the gallop. It is just as it sounds,
almost a rocking slow motion canter; a regular trot is much faster. This speed is
usually comfortable for the fit racehorse, but hard on the rider because most horses
really pull when held this slow.
The medium or regular gallop is the normal galloping speed of most horses. A strong
gallop is the normal galloping speed of a few horses.
Many trainers have days when they want a strong gallop, this is a forward, comfortable gait and the rider usually doesn’t have to work very hard to maintain this speed,
except on the horses that like to pull or of course, lazy horses.
The next speed is the two minute lick, which means one mile is galloped in two minutes. It is the “gear” just below a breeze. This speed and breezing are used to put air
into the horse, not necessarily to build muscle. They are scheduled carefully in relation to race days once the horse is racing fit. These usually cause the horse to
“sharpen” or to “get on his toes”.
Breezing is the fastest galloping speed, most often it's a bit slower than racing
speed. “Trackers” really do not consider it a gallop at all. It is the point where the
rider ceases to feel the hoof beats any longer. The sensation is smoothness. I liken it
to the space movies where the spaceship enters warp speed. The sensation is smooth
and effortless on a good horse. You usually do not hear anything but the horse’s
breath and your own. It is a timed workout; used to prep horses for races or for getting them fit. A breeze can be easy or strong. To get a young horse fit, he can be
breezed at 5 to 7 day intervals. To prepare a horse for a race he is typically breezed 2
to 3 days prior to a race. Each trainer has his own training style and each horse is an
individual.
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◊ CENTER OF GRAVITY OF THE GALLOP - The horse’s withers and shoulders are
the center of gravity at the gallop. The rider moves in sync with the horse’s motion. When the rider is stiff the horse becomes uncomfortable, due to the extra work
it creates for both the rider and horse. Ideally, the rider keeps his balance in two
point over the shoulders during the gallop (see centered riding).
Exercise riders and jockeys balance their weight over their feet, they do not grip with
their legs. To maintain a straight back the abdominal muscles are pushed out rather
than arching in. The knees of the rider absorb most of the shock. All of the joints are
absorbing some of the shock allowing the rider to be strong and flexible, not
rigid. The rider’s head and upper body remain still. When the rider’s position is
correct and balanced, he will be thrown back in the tack rather than pitched off when
the horse spooks or stumbles.
◊ RELAXING ON THE TRACK - When galloping or jogging, in company, the exercise
rider may stay just a nose off the other horse. This causes him to relax, wait and be
patient. This is worth remembering when retraining your ottb to trail ride or hack with
other horses. Jockeys do this in races to get the horse to relax and save himself for
the end run. The rider’s body must remain supple and soft, while exerting tremendous
strength.
◊ LEAD CHANGES AT THE TRACK - The racehorse travels on the inside or left lead
in the turns and on the outside or right lead on the straights of the racetrack. Riders
ask for a lead change with the transfer of their weight, not by use of their leg. (This
helps the jockeys in a race.) The changes must be effortless.
Most horses learn quickly that it’s easier to change leads in these places on the
track. All tracks are basically the same, so the horse learns through habit to change
and the jockey doesn’t have to ask the horse to change at all once he learns this.
You do not teach the ottb to change leads he knows how to do it. You only have to
“remodel” they system. The horse is used to having momentum. Momentum does
not mean speed, it means moving forward impelled by the horse’s velocity and
strength. The horse also responds to a slight shift in the rider’s weight. This is how
the jockey changes leads. They put more weight in the stirrup on the side of the lead
they want at the point in the stride where the horse is stepping under with the inside
hind. This is not done by leaning, it is done by dropping weight into the stirrup. If you
are balanced and in the center of the retired racehorse, you should have little trouble
getting your lead if you put more weight in the stirrup of the lead you want, but be
careful not to lean as this will interrupt the horse’s balance. If you put your outside
leg back, be careful to keep your weight in the inside stirrup.
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◊ REINS AND USE OF THE BIT- The wide race reins are usually held in a full or half
cross. These techniques allow the rider to let the horse pull on himself instead of
directly on the rider causing fatigue.
A full cross is when both reins are held together in both hands making a bridge to be
placed on either side of the withers. The hands are held the same width, often 5”, as
the bit in the horse’s mouth. This cross is for the toughies.
Most riders prefer the half cross. The left rein is held in the left hand, crosses the
withers and held in the right hand. The right rein is held only in the right hand. This
can be done in reverse, too. Hands are kept on either side of the withers the same as
with the full cross.
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Most horses are ridden to and from the track on a loose or gentle contact rein, the
reins are picked up when preparing to trot or gallop. On the bit means the horse is in
a frame and listening to our aids, similar to the riding horse’s “on the bit”. The difference is at the track he is on the forehand.
Racehorses are encouraged to take hold of the bit. When re-training, putting a harsh
bit in their mouth to stop this is not recommended. Racehorses trust the bit; they are
not slowed by severe bits. Many times, the use of a severe bit will result in an out of
control horse. When the bit is more than the horse requires, he will probably become
resentful or frightened and is more likely to run off to get away from the bit.
Bits do not hold horses, good riding does. It’s better to put a snaffle in and re-school
the mouth. Good riding determines the pace. Severe bits are torture to the horse and
are a psychological crutch for inept riders. The mouth needs to be retrained, not
abused.
◊ HAND POSITIONS ON THE RACEHORSE The “home position” of the exercise rider's hands
has the knuckles of each hand pressed flat into
either side of the withers. This is one of the most
difficult things for the show rider to master when
first galloping racehorses.
Each horse pulls differently, some pull very hard
and others not so much. When the horse pulls
hard, it does not mean he’s going to run
off. Tough horses run off because the rider cannot sustain the hold, not because they intended to
run off that day. Horses will pull harder when they
are sharp or before they break off to breeze.
A good rider gives the racehorse a stable place to pull. The rider lets the horse take
hold of the bit; he never initiates the pulling contact. A misconception is a horse that
pulls doesn’t have a good mouth, more often than not they have a very responsive
mouth.
Often the same hold is maintained throughout the training session. This means the
reins are not shortened or lengthened during the ride. Especially tough horses, the
hold never changes. As always there are exceptions. In races if the jockey changes
his hold, it is usually in the stretch to make the horse run faster. Keep this in mind.
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◊ SLOWING AND STOPPING THE RACEHORSE - Understanding how riders stop
and slow racehorses is helpful in retraining them. Many racehorses will slow and even
stop by pulling on the yoke. This is not intentionally taught to them, but is a result of
being ridden with one.
Standing up in the stirrups drops the rider’s weight into the center of the horse. This is
the equivalent to applying the brakes for the horse. Jumping riders, show and race,
employ a similar technique to slow and stop their horses.
Shifting of the rider’s weight behind the vertical is the exercise rider’s use of the “seat”
due to the fact so much of their riding is done in extreme two point.
An example of this is when the rider is pulling up after a gallop. The beginning of the
slow down is well in advance of the desired place stop. The rider’s hold is softened
and the weight is shifted behind the vertical. His feet are shifted forward putting his
body weight behind the motion of the horse. The rhythm of the rider’s body slows encouraging the horse to slow the rhythm of his gallop. Both hands are kept down on
the withers, although with some horses the reins may be lifted and lowered several
times. Not pulled back, lifted and lowered.
◊ STIRRUP LENGTH - Stirrup
length varies according to the needs
of the rider and his individual riding
style. Some exercise riders ride long
and others short. Still others and
probably the best, adjust the length
of the stirrup for the particular horse
and the instructions of the day. This
is the same as in any other discipline.
Most people ride the shortest when
they are breezing. Two exceptions
are when teaching babies to breeze
and when riding them the first few
times on the rail. The tougher the
horse, the shorter the stirrup length, unless the horse is known to be a bad actor. In
this case, the rider must ride longer to stay on.
The longer you ride, the longer you ride, is the old timer’s adage. This is true and
most of the experienced riders do ride longer than the outsider would expect.
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Jockeys do not have the same concerns exercise riders do. The jockey's job is not to
school the horse, it’s to let him run and bother him as little as possible. They have a
lead pony to escort their horse to the starting gate.
The better riders are not supporting their weight on the horse’s mouth, no matter
what the length of their stirrups. It is easier to ride longer and avoid supporting
oneself on the horse’s mouth, remaining balanced and in the center of motion.
◊ ASKING FOR WHAT YOU WANT - Thoroughbred racehorses are accustomed to
being asked, not forced to do things. The rider asks and then holds his position,
leaving the horse free to do as asked. For example, the horse is given an aid and the
rider’s hands stay down and the body relaxes with the motion. Most exercise riders
and jockeys are very good at leaving the horse alone.
One difference worth mentioning is the way an exercise rider or jockey rewards the
horse for responding to a request. In show and pleasure horses it is customary to soften when the horse obeys. This is the way the horse is rewarded. In racing the reward is more that the rider stays the same. I am not going to say we do not soften or
that we keep asking the horse to do something. This is a difficult thing to explain, but
basically if we ask the horse to pick the pace up, we do it by relaxing our hold and our
body, The horse then picks up the bit as he picks up the pace and we stay the same,
giving him a stable place to take hold.
Many times when the horse enters training for another discipline, aids are overemphasized and he becomes annoyed or upset at what he perceives as nagging. In racing, a
little aid goes a very long way. Most exercise riders have an evolved degree of
subtlety which is a necessity on a high performance horse. This subtlety allows a
jockey to ride the horse with his irons so short, because it takes so little to get him to
respond. Some of the perceived “craziness” of off track Thoroughbreds comes from
the fact that their new riders do not realize how little they have to do to get a response from these wonderful athletes. In time the horse learns to accept the stronger
aids or better yet the rider learns to be more accurate and subtle with his aids.
The more fit the horse, the more responsive and touchy he is. This is one reason you
may want to let the horse down before your retraining begins.
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◊ THE STARTING GATE - Thoroughbred horses begin the race from the starting
gate. In order to learn to do this, they must be educated on how to break from the
gate.
Each track employs a group of men and women who
help handle the horses at the gate. The person who
starts each race is the Starter, all other handlers are
Assistant Starters. They are present at the gate
during the race. They load and stay on the head of
each horse until the starter presses the button
opening the front doors of the starting gate.
The object is to have a clean and fair start to the
race. The goal of each assistant starter is to have
each horse standing squarely and focused on
breaking as the gate opens. These people are
committed to the safety of the jockeys in the
afternoon and the exercise riders in the morning.
A horse must have a gate card in order to
race. The Starter must okay a horse for breaking
from the gate in order to get this card. When an
exercise rider approaches the gate in the morning,
he is met by a group of experienced individuals
whose purpose is to facilitate the education of the
horse at the gate.
Schooling in the gate occurs at different points of
the horse’s training depending on the trainer’s judgment. Many riders prefer that it begin before the
horse is too fit. The starting gate can be a very
intimidating place.
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Every Thoroughbred racehorse
is ridden into this small area
and taught to stand and wait
to break from the gate. Racehorses are not crazy, if they
were, flat races could not start
this way.
When you purchase a horse
off the track, you are getting a
horse capable of incredible
obedience during stressful
times, such as the start of a
race.
◊ Training on the Track - Each trainer has his own beliefs and training schedule, but I will attempt to outline just what racehorses do when they go to the track.
Please understand there are many varied ways to get a horse race ready, but there
are some basic instructions that I got regularly as an exercise rider.
Most tracks are a mile or a 1 1/16 miles, although there are some that are 5/8 and a
few that are 1 1/8. Belmont Park in Elmont, NY is the longest track in America at 1
1/2 miles.
A typical instruction for a baby (new to the track, usually two years old, but not always), is to walk to the track usually with another baby or a pony and go straight off
once around. Straight off is the right way, or counter clockwise direction of the track.
You might jog off an eighth of a mile or so before picking up the gallop.
Eventually, you back them up, (jog the wrong way), for a quarter to a half mile, turn
in and stand and then gallop around once. Many people jog back to the wire and pull
up at the 5/8 or 1/2 mile pole. It’s never good to pull up before the wire.
Older horses gallop anywhere from a mile to a mile and a half per day on average. A
normal gallop is probably 400 mpm. Remember, every trainer has his own ideas.
Some like to see them hobby horse and others like to see them go along and then
there are the dreaded joggers.
Some claiming trainers just have you jog a mile. This sharpens the horse to stellar
proportions and it’s miserable to ride them, but many times they do really well. These
horses are older and have raced, so fitness is not the issue. This type of training will
freshen many horses.
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The furthest most horses gallop is two miles. You will rarely ever see one train further
on purpose. I liked to do two miles with my horses two weeks before their first race
going long. I would do the first mile at a normal pace, pick it up on the second mile
and breeze the last quarter mile. I felt this was better for them than breezing a full
mile. Horses who have not run may do two miles once a week, but not likely more
than that.
Finally, let me touch on breezing. When getting a horse fit, the normal space between
breezes is five days, with a day off after the breeze. Horses who are racing usually
only breeze a few days before they race to put air in them since they are already fit.
With babies, you would start out doing 1/8 miles to the wire. Meaning the end of the
breeze is at the wire. Then a 1/4 mile once or twice. 3/8 mile is usually the first
“formal” workout where the time counts. A time of .40 or .38 would be a good easy
3/8 workout. Older seasoned horses do .37, smoking is .36. Gradually every 5 to 7
days the distance is lengthened. I used to do two of each, meaning 3/8 mile and
seven days later another 3/8 mile, but galloping out a strong 1/2 mile to set up for the
first 1/2 mile. Up to 5/8 mile are the most common distances. Short distance work
outs are good for sprinters, longer workouts, over a half mile are good for distance
horses.
There is so much to explain, this just scratches the surface of training the racehorse.
◊ SOME MYTHS - It is important to address several "myths" that persist regarding
racing. The first is, racehorses do trot, or jog as we call it. On some days their training might be to simply jog one or two miles on the track. Many trainers have the rider
jog back to warm up the horse and then turn around and gallop.
Racehorses do know how to walk. Most of them walk to and from the track during
training. When the horse reaches the track, they usually walk for a prescribed distance, then pick up a trot to warm up. They travel clockwise on American tracks, prior
to reversing direction to begin their gallop. Racehorses are finely tuned and highly responsive.
Riders at the track are good riders, duly licensed by the state and monitored for competence during their careers.
Racehorses do not run around like out of control wild animals – usually. Their training
is planned and has a format.
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All racehorses are not unsound. There are many horses at the track and they all work
most days. Racing asks more of a horse, so it only makes sense that you will see
more soundness issues. Where else do you have a pool of horses that large training
every day?
Many riders have been asked their opinion on the following question - the response is
consistent. Is there a color of horse that's more difficult to deal with? (referring to
the chestnut mare thing.) There was a time when I was getting on thirty horses a day
and it never occurred to me that I should avoid the chestnut fillies.
I galloped nice, nasty, kooky, smart, classy and crummy horses in every color, shape
and size. Every rider I asked about color indicating difficult or "hot" characteristics
looked at me like I was an idiot.
◊ RULES OF THE “ROAD” - There are rules riders must follow when riding on the
track. Every track I have galloped at has the same basic rules with only minor differences. Horses gallop the “right way” or counter-clockwise on the racetrack. The
inside rail is reserved for the fastest speeds, which are breezing speeds. As you come
out from the inside rail the galloping speeds become slower. Horses pass to the
inside, when traveling at a faster rate and it’s wise to say “coming by” to the rider you
are passing.
The outside rail is reserved for jogging and traveling in the clockwise direction. No
galloping is allowed. Horses become accustomed to the other horses who are galloping at them. Many young or green horses are frightened the first few times they jog
the “wrong way”.
Many trainers expect the horse to jog to warm up and then stand in, facing the inside
rail, for a bit before jogging off and then galloping. At the end of the gallop the horse
stands in again. During this time the horse and rider watch the other horses train,
both galloping and jogging by.
Where do trainers and owners get horses?
◊ SELECTING A PROSPECT - The knowledge of some more common ways race
trainers and owners select and acquire racing prospects will be helpful when dealing
with trainers and owners at the track. Understanding how they select and acquire
their horses will demonstrate the differences and similarities between the pleasure/
show way of shopping and the racing way of shopping.
Many times race trainers and owners purchase horses without a ppe, pre-purchase
exam. There is a "buy them and try them" mentality for many who are involved in
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racing. This is one reason some trainers and owners lose their patience with people
from other disciplines where it is common to have a vet check. Most of the time they
are not hiding anything, they do not understand why you cannot go over the horse
yourself and see if he is suitable for your purposes, especially, if the horse is being
sold for a small amount of money.
It's also normal to buy a horse off of his racing form, sight unseen. Many trainers do
not ride, so not riding the horse before purchase is a normal occurrence.
Purchase at auction is another popular way to get a racehorse or prospect. There are
several basic types of auctions. Prospective buyers are not allowed to ride the horses
before purchase. Most common are weanling and yearling auctions. Weanlings are
commonly turned out to grow after being purchased and the yearlings usually begin
the training process. These auctions are usually held in the fall when yearlings are
ready to begin work. Horses are usually vetted.
The two years old in training sales may be the most common way to buy a
prospect. These sales have several days to a week when the potential buyers can
watch horses train and breeze short distances. The actual auction is held at the end
of this time. Horses are vetted during these sales. Most of the time radiographs are
available in a repository.
Claiming races are another very common way to get a racehorse. This way a horse is
purchased that is already racing. The trainer or owner places the correct amount of
money in his account and then drops a claim slip some 15 minutes before post time of
the race. When the starting gate doors open, he is the owner of the horse unless
more than one slip is dropped. In that case the actual owner is decided by
lottery. The horse is not vetted, most of the time the prospective trainer and/or owner
watch him in the paddock before making the claim. Sometimes they may watch the
horse for several preceding races over a number of weeks before deciding to
claim. The decision to purchase a horse in this manner is primarily made on his racing
form/history.
A trainer or owner may hear about a horse that’s for sale through the grapevine, or he
may have a call from a trainer whom he has bought from in the past.
There is a hierarchy to racing. Individual tracks have their own level of competitive
difficulty. Consequently, a trainer at a tougher track will have little trouble selling his
non-performers to trainers located at tracks where the competition is less. Usually
these trainers do not vet. They will show up the day of the call with cash to pick up
the horse. There are times when owners or trainers buy a prospect privately with a
ppe. The price is often the determining factor in deciding if a ppe is done.
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◊WHY AND WHEN IT IS TIME TO RETIRE - Here are some of the reasons why
trainers and owners retire a horse from racing.
(1) Lack of talent or being too slow is probably the number one reason. These horses
make some of the best show prospects. The horse may actually have talent, though he
lacks the competitive nature necessary in a racehorse. Slow at the track is still very
fast for most people outside racing; he will likely be fast enough for your purposes.
(2) Each trainer has a limited number of stalls assigned at the track. He is expected to
make a certain number of starts per stall each month. The trainer or owner may elect
to sell an untalented horse, and bring one in that hopefully has more promise.
(3) When a horse needs time off and the owner is not willing to wait, the horse may
be sold or placed. This could be due to an injury that will heal completely or simply
because the horse needs a break.
(4) A horse can be ineligible to race. Horses must be eligible to race. Each racing jurisdiction has a set of rules and qualifications for the horses to be allowed to race at
the tracks under their governing.
There is a cut off age for maidens. As stated before, maidens are horses who have
never won a race. In Maryland, if by the age of 6 years old the horse has not won a
race, he is not eligible to be entered in a race.
If a horse has run for a claiming price that is less than the bottom claiming price in a
particular jurisdiction, he can not be entered or stabled in that jurisdiction. In Maryland, the bottom is $4,000, so if the horse is run in a $2,500 claiming race in another
state, he can no longer race in Maryland until he later finishes 1, 2, or 3 for
$4000. There are other ways to become ineligible, but these are the most common.
(5) Horses can be placed on the vet’s list. There are veterinarians who are employed
by the state to watch over horses who are racing. They check each horse on race day
for soundness before the race. A state vet is behind the starting gate and watches the
horses warm up in the post parade. (S)he has the power to prevent a horse from racing that day if it is seen to be lame. They also watch the horses pull up after the race.
If a horse is found to be lame it is placed on the Vet’s List; this is found in the Secretary’s office. The horse must be observed by the State Vet during a timed workout and
deemed to be sound during and after it in order to get off the Vet’s List. Sometimes
the trainer will decide to get rid of the horse instead of doing this. Another powerful
list is the Starter’s List in the Secretary’s office. This is for horses that refused to break
from the gate. A horse can be permanently barred from racing for this.
39
What happens to racehorses when they are not competitive?
What are the options available to trainers or owners when they decide to sell or place
a horse? Racing is not a job as much as a way of life for everyone on the backstretch,
including trainers. There is not much time for socializing outside of the racing
world. When a trainer wants to sell a horse, he knows lots of other trainers to call,
and that's usually all he knows. So, the easiest way for most trainers to move a horse
is to sell him or her to a trainer at a lesser track, or worse send him to auction. By
auction I do not mean the kind where racing prospects are bought and sold. Normally, a trainer can pick up the phone and have another trainer at a less competitive
track come and buy the horse almost immediately. No vetting and cash sale. Many
times the horse is gone in less than 24 hours.
Some trainers have the horses picked up by a man who takes them to auction. This is
done on demand or on a certain day of the week. This kind of auction is not a good
place. In our area the horses end up in New Holland, PA or Sugarcreek, OH. There is
a slim, very slim chance the horse will be purchased by someone who wants a riding
horse. The majority of horses are bought by "meat men" who ship them to plants in
Mexico and Canada. They are killed in horrible ways and then slaughtered for their
meat. This is something that should never happen to any horse, but if we want racing
to survive, it must stop happening to Thoroughbreds. The public is not likely to fall in
love with an equine athlete who will be tortured, killed and eaten when he fails to be
competitive. This is my opinion and it's the major reason I am spending this time trying to help potential Thoroughbred owners retrain their horses for new careers. I
know that the bigger the market for sport ottb's, the more horses avoid slaughter.
I am proud to say that the tracks in Maryland and all tracks owned by Magna Entertainment have a zero tolerance slaughter policy. The following is their wording of the
policy. “Magna Entertainment Corp. has formally adopted a company-wide policy promoting the humane treatment of racehorses, the company announced October 10,
2009. Under the policy, any trainer or owner stabling at an MEC facility who directly
or indirectly participates in the transport of a horse from a MEC facility to either a
slaughterhouse or an auction house engaged in selling horses for a slaughter will be
prohibited from having stalls at any MEC facility. The policy also applies to any actions
related to the transport of a horse from a MEC facility where the ultimate intended result is a horse's slaughter.”
Now for my favorite way for a Thoroughbred to retire from racing. Transitioning to a
new career is the best option for everyone involved. When I say career, it could be
companion, eventer, jumper, dressage horse, broodmare, trail horse, faithful sidekick you name it. Thoroughbreds are smart and athletic, they can do anything given good
40
guidance and a chance. I am biased, I'll admit I am a to the core Thoroughbred
person. I am not the only professional that recognizes the ability and talent of the
Thoroughbred. How do you get one off the track or a retiree already let down? One
of the main goals of this book is to show you how. There are many rescue groups
who assist in this goal. I hate that word rescue, because most racehorses do not need
rescue, they need a new career. There are lots of horsemen who send them home to
their own farms and place them at that point. You can also buy one right off the backside with a little know how.
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You’re Ready to Start Looking
You're ready to start looking
◊ THINGS TO KNOW - when you go to the racetrack
Be prepared when you go to the track to find a horse. Take identification, as you will
be asked for it by security. Take a digital camera, pen and paper for notes about the
horses you see. Record the name of the horse and trainer, barn number where they
are located, contact info, the vet they use. Note any observations before moving on to
the next horse, where possible. Keep in mind that most tracks do not allow dogs.
When in the barn, stay on the inside, the left, side of the horses as they walk around
the shedrow. Never stand on the “outside” or right side of a racehorse. Remember
this rule applies to horses who are being hosed, groomed or otherwise worked on, as
well. Horses have the right of way at all times. This means, do not walk in front of
them and never run unless you are about to be injured and there's no other way. Do
not use flashes when taking pictures. Plastic bags or other noisy things are not
welcome.
While watching horses on the track, do not stand close to the rail, for this can frighten
young horses. It is advisable to stand in the open so the horses can easily identify
that you are a human, not something stalking them preparing to pounce. Many times
a rider will sound rude when telling you to get out of his way. Loud and mean is more
likely to get an immediate response. He is not mad at you, later you will find the same
rider will be polite and friendly. This is a result of the high potential for disaster when
things go wrong on the track.
◊ WHERE TO START
There are different ways to get on the track when looking for a horse. If you're the
outgoing type, go to the Secretary’s office on race days. The people who work there
may be able to put you in contact with someone who'll get you on the backstretch. They may even know who has horses to sell. Also, there are always trainers
hanging out in the Secretary’s Office during races.
Another way is to show up at the entrance gate to the backstretch, early in the
morning. Ask the guards to announce you're there looking to buy. This can be an
uncertain, though many times effective way to get connected. Most tracks require a
trainer or owner sign and be responsible for an unlicensed person for the day.
Check horse journal classifieds and the internet to find someone that represents
trainers on the backstretch. This is a good way for the first time ottb buyer to get an
introduction to the track.
My advice in finding the right horse is to trust your first impression of each horse. If
you're walking away trying to convince yourself he's the right one, he most likely is
not. It should be similar to love at first sight. Also, be objective about the good and
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the bad in every horse. It’s too easy to fall in love with a horse and miss the things
that may be an issue later on. Or miss great potential when you only look for the
imperfection. Remember, there is no perfect horse.
◊ GOOD DEALS
Some horses can be a great deal because they are not “suitable” to many buyers. Colts are the most “undesirable” sex of horse for most people, with geldings the
most popular. If willing to consider a colt, you will have less competition for some
very nice horses. It's neither hard nor expensive to turn a colt into a gelding. Many
times you can negotiate a deal where the colt is gelded before you bring him to your
farm. Most horses need a let down time anyway and by the time your new horse is
ready to enter training, the “colt” will be out of him.
Two year olds are another overlooked group. They will grow and develop into the
very horse you are looking for. It's not unusual to take a year or more to get them
show ready anyway. During this time you can form a solid relationship with the
horse. They have been lightly raced and are generally easier to transition.
◊ TEMPERAMENT
Assessing the temperament of horses you're considering is not so easy if you are not
used to horses in race training. A seemingly high strung individual could in fact be a
teddy bear once let down on a farm. Keep in mind that training style and physical
issues can effect temperament. If the horse is sore he may be more wound up, sour
or depressed. Veterinary treatments may also be an issue. When watching the horse
train, ask if the horse was off the day before - Sunday is the common day off. If off
the day before, the horse is likely to be much higher than normal. Where possible
come and see the horse train the next day and note how much he calms down. This
would be indicative of how he will let down when you get him home.
Sprinters are horses that run short distances. Four, five and six furlong races (a
furlong being one eighth mile), are common distances for them. Sprinters are
trained to go, go go. Many times this results in these horses being more wound up or
sharp. Keep this in mind when assessing temperament. Stayers are horses that run
long distances. Seven furlongs can be run as a long sprint or a distance race. 8 furlongs and beyond are considered distance races. The horses generally do not like to
be rushed in the beginning, saving their “run” for the end. These horses tend to be
more settled. (I mean this in the racehorse sense.)
◊ MOVEMENT
Assessing movement is not a simple thing either. Ask to watch the horse train on the
track - arrange this when making the appointment to see the horse. If the horse is no
longer in training, the likely reason is resources. Nowadays, if the horse is not going
to race any longer, the trainer will not want to pay a rider to gallop him. The track is
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open for a few hours and there are too many other horses to focus on. Consequently,
do not think he’s lame just because he’s out of training. More likely, he’s no longer
racing.
When evaluating movement take into account many horseshoes for racing are
designed to elicit more traction. They stop the natural movement of the horse. Toe
grabs, jar calks, stickers all have this function. Most horses will move better and freer
when you pull these shoes and replace them with normal ones. In addition, these
shoes can cause the horse to be sore. Many layups we get on the farm because the
horse is sore, can be cured by time and proper shoeing.
◊ TYPES OF RACING CAREER
I am going to classify the types of racing careers a horse can have. Obviously, I'll be
generalizing and there can be other circumstances that happen during a horse's
career. Most of the horses you come across will fall into one of the categories, so let's
start with the horses that never had a career.
1. The unraced Thoroughbred. Unraced sounds really good and many times it is, but
it can also be a bad sign if it's due to an unsoundness that's of a permanent nature.
a. Poor confirmation will not hold up to some stresses.
b. Less than perfect management while raising the horse may result in negative physical issues.
c. There are other instances where the horse may have been injured not resulting in permanent unsoundness issues, but now it's late in the game to
get him to the races. Remember, racing is a "time limited" venture. What I
mean is horses get heavier as they get older and many trainers, myself included recognize the odds are against getting an older horse to the races
successfully. There are always exceptional circumstances, but the more
mass on the bones, the bigger the chance of injury and more time off. It's
easy to ask why the horse never raced and a pre-purchase exam can confirm the explanation.
It's more common for a horse to be unraced for other reasons.
a. He was untalented and the trainers/owners felt it better to move on to other
prospects. Usually the horse has had enough training to be well broke but
has not yet trained hard enough to develop any wear and tear. Also many
"untalented" horses really do not lack ability, they just do not have the
competitive edge. Often this leads to a more quiet, cooperative
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temperament. A great quality in a show/pleasure horse. Mind you, there
are many great racehorses who have lovely temperaments too.
b. There just is not the money to get a horse to the races. Lots of people
breed horses not realizing how tremendously expensive it is to get a horse
to the races. This leads to a horse ending up in the show or pleasure ring
instead of the track. Training fees start at $50 per day, not including vet,
blacksmith, etc. and depending on the part of the country, go up to $150
per day. Before they get to the track they have to be started. Racehorses
are an expensive
luxury. People can have horses in training and then
have financial issues that result in not being able to afford to continue. Often these horses are sold within racing, but they are also a good value for
the show/pleasure world.
c. There is the occasional horse with horrible temperament. He just doesn't fit
into the training program of racehorses. These horses are easy to spot and
likely won't make a good show horse either. Fortunately, most Thoroughbreds want to please and this is a very uncommon occurrence.
2. Do not shy away from a horse that only ran a few times and is now for sale.
a. Many times the trainer already knows the horse lacks talent, but must race
the horse to convince the owner.
b. Or the horse showed talent in the morning, but doesn't assert himself during
the race. They call the latter "morning glories", and they are the most frustrating horses to train. In the morning, he's a stake horse and in the afternoon he finishes last. These horses have the talent, but lack the mentality
to go with racing.
c. Good trainers will stop a horse because they can see the horse is not going
to stand up to the rigors of racing. These horses will be suitable for almost
anything else, including jumping. Racing asks more of a horse than any
other discipline I know of, and at a younger age. Consequently, these
horses are often a great buy. It speaks of a trainer's integrity and judgment
that he stops a horse long before he is injured, saving the horse and the $$
of the owner too. It's a safe bet that this horse has been handled correctly
all along.
d. There are horses that have long racing careers and retire sound. Do not
eliminate a horse from consideration simply because he's raced a lot. This is
a tough horse that's been soundness tested. He has the class to handle the
stress and pressure of racing. Usually these horses are very smart and have
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the temperament everyone is looking for. Horses that try hard can be counted on and
that's a special quality.
Once a horse races, his history begins to be publicly documented. Comprehensive records are kept of each race a horse runs. When you start considering horses, a good
idea is to learn how to use some of these tools. You can gain insight into the type of
horse he is, the time he's had off during his career, and where he's been. Plus it's
fun. This background information is offered only by other sanctioned racing breeds.
◊ RESEARCHING RACING HISTORY
It’s very easy to access a Thoroughbred racehorse’s history. You can get his or her
history through one of many services for a fee.
The Daily Racing Form, www.drf.com is the "Bible" of Thoroughbred horsemen. They
provide the latest news in racing, past performances of horses entered that day and a
very nice tutorial on how to read the past performances.
Equibase, www.equibase.com, an offshoot of the DRF is one place you can go to get
the entire racing history of your horse. You can get the past performances of every
race he ever ran, or the charts, which are results of each race with descriptive
comments. You can also access his breeding if that's of interest to you. Brisnet,
www.brisnet.com, is yet another service that offers similar information for a fee.
The Jockey Club, www.jockeyclub.com, is the registry of Thoroughbreds among
many other functions. It can be helpful in a myriad of ways in finding information on a
Thoroughbred.
Pedigree Query, www.pedigreequery.com, will give you basic information of your
horse's breeding at no charge. There are others, if you want to search around on the
net.
This part of my online book is going to be a real work in progress, I'll likely be adding
to it for years. I am going to discuss racing history as it applies to the needs of someone looking for a show/pleasure prospect. This information is used by handicappers to
bet, and trainers and owners to strategize their races. They also use it for shopping
for horses to claim. What we want to know is how the horse has been trained, where
he's been and how much time he's had off and clues to why he had that time.
The past performances or the charts give you a description of each race a horse ran. I
am going to stick with the pp’s, because that's what I pull on a prospect. You get the
date he ran, the track, weather, distance of race, jockey, trainer, owner, where he was
at different points in the race.
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where he finished, his most recent breezes, age, color, dam, sire, where he was bred,
price paid if purchased at a sale, stud fee, lifetime earnings, earnings by year and
what surfaces he made the money on. Surfaces meaning, off track, fast, turf. They
even publish whether he had front bandages, blinkers, lasix or adjunct medication. You get a lot for your money, but what do you do with it?
First, let me state there are no hard and fast rules to follow. The racing history will
provide clues that are helpful, nothing more.
Let's begin by talking about racing style. Every horse has a preferred way of running. This is determined by the horse and really cannot be changed very
much. Trainers know this and spend time learning the horse's style and entering him
in the appropriate race. Some horses like to run long, meaning their races are a
longer distance. While others prefer short races, these are the sprinters.
Body types suggest a preferred distance, but there are exceptions. Sprinters tend to
be more compact, while distance runners generally are bigger and cover more
ground. Whatever the horse's best distance, he will have a running style.
Some horses like to lead the entire race while others like to drop back and do all of the
running at the end. Still other horses like to sit a few lengths off the lead and then
make their move. It all depends on how the horse will best relax in the race so he has
the most energy to try to win at the end.
Knowing running style can help with retraining. Front end horses and sprinters tend to
be less patient. Distance horses have more stamina. Think about those first trail rides
and how you can better relax the horse just by where you put him among the other
horses. A sprinter may take more warming up to instill patience in him. Horses are
trained according to their racing style. Keep these characteristics in mind when working with your new friend.
Gaps in a horse's racing history can mean a rest period or an injury. There are clues
in the amount of time off, time of year and location of the track.
·
If you get to know the trainers style, you may find he gives all 2 year olds off
about that time.
·
When you look at extended time between two races, keep in mind that's the
rest period and the time it took to get the horse race ready again. For instance,
six months is maybe four months rest and sixty days to regain fitness. A month
between races is nothing, they probably couldn't find a race. Even two months
could be explained for the same reason. It is expected that young horses will
suffer from respiratory illness more often, just like children when they first
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attend school. Many young horses have shin soreness requiring time off.
·
Gaps in a horses form when they are younger do not worry me as much and
sometimes the older guy gets time off just because he’s been there a while and
need to be freshened.
·
Turf horses spend the winter on vacation in the Mid Atlantic area because there
is no turf racing.
A horse that's had a lot of trainers and lived at many tracks and is not nervous is a
well adjusted individual.
When possible ask the trainer, groom and exercise rider questions about the
horse. How is he for the blacksmith and vet? What is he like to ride? How is he to
handle at the races?
While you make your rounds looking for a horse, you should be familiar with some of
the more common health and soundness issues. While it is advisable to have a pre
purchase exam done on any horse you're interested in, it’s also good to have a basic
understanding of some of the issues you may encounter.
Dr. Carol Swandby a long time horseman and veterinarian has graciously given a brief
overview of some of the most common veterinary topics you will likely come across in
your search for a new horse.
·
"Bleeding EIPH is not an issue for the non-racing athlete. I am never concerned that a horse is on lasix."
·
Wind problems and the sounds they make: "If the horse is a roarer (left laryngeal hemiplegia) there may be an issue if you plan to show in the hunter division. Upper airway noises are considered faults. Check with your show organization. If the horse does make a noise, have an endoscopic exam performed to
determine the cause."
·
Osselets is a slang term for any enlargement of the front ankles. They represent overexertion - stretching of the soft tissues. Once the horse has them it is
a permanent blemish.
·
Splints on a Thoroughbred are not a concern for future disciplines. Splints will
not become a source of lameness unless the horse is longed frequently and/or
for an extended period of time.
49
·
Ringbone is generally not seen in the racing Thoroughbred. This is a condition
of older horses.
·
Chips in any joint may be a problem in the future. Chips are always associated
with degenerative joint disease. Horses with chips can be serviceably sound for
many years as trail horses, companions and broodmares. Horses with chips
should not be considered for resale projects as they will not "pass" a ppe.
·
Bows are any injury to the superficial digital flexor tendon. It is an injury associated with fatigue. The only disciplines that an old bow may be a problem are
combined training where there is a lot of galloping and steeplechasing.
·
Capped hocks and elbows are strictly cosmetic and not associated with lameness.
·
A healthy suspensory is necessary in dressage, show jumping, etc. Suspensory
ligament injuries can be associated with broken splint bones and/or
sesamoids. When considering a horse with this issue have an ultrasound exam
and radiographs taken.
·
String halt- Uncommon in the young Thoroughbred.
·
Hock problems are usually associated with OCD. Racing Thoroughbreds do not
jump, so degeneration is minimal or non-existent. OCD is a complex syndrome
that can affect any joint. Best to consult your veterinarian. Every horse is different as regards to long term prognosis.
·
Nerving is done when the coffin bone (third phalanx) has been broken. Trail
riding is probably the best discipline for these animals. There is a list posted in
the Racing Secretary’s office of the horses who've had this procedure. When
possible ask if the horse has had any Anabolic steroids. Fillies and mares that
have had anabolic steroids may have difficulty conceiving. Horses of either
gender may be sexually aggressive when turned out with other horses. The effects of anabolic steroids wear off in 4-8 weeks. Finding a vet to do a prepurchase exam at the track is rather easy most of the time. There are vets at
the track every day. Each track I have been to has more than one vet practice.
Just ask the trainer who his vet is and choose one of the other practices to
avoid conflict.
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◊ NEGOTIATING THE PURCHASE
Now that you've found a horse you want and made the decision of whether to have a
pre-purchase exam, you're ready to negotiate.
1. The strongest negotiating point for most trainers is when you plan to take
the horse. If you want a great price, arrive at the track prepared to buy. If
you're willing to take the horse that day, many sellers will be much more
willing to negotiate. Bring your horse trailer, just in case, but do not feel
pressure to fill it if you do not see the horse of your dreams.
2. You can make arrangements to have any horse vetted before you arrive. Do
this by asking the trainer for the names and phone numbers of the vet practices operating at that track. Call them and see if they are willing to go over
a horse if you find one. Most times this is easy to arrange.
3. Cash is the best because the seller doesn’t have to worry whether your
check will clear. Cash also keeps you in a budget, because you arrive with
exactly what you're willing to pay. I know for myself this is important because I tend to fall in love with horses. Many sellers will accept checks.
4. Trainers are interested in racehorses and winning races. If they are going to
survive in this business, that must be their priority. Just like all other horse
people, you have the trainers who dearly love their horses and the trainers
who see them as a way to make a living. This makes a difference when negotiating. It matters to me and many of my trainer and owner friends,
where our horses are going.
5. Remember age, sex, soundness and size all affect the price of a horse. Also
racing people and show/pleasure people value horses differently. In racing
a well bred horse is very valuable, not just because of the breeding, but
what the breeding means. Well bred horses tend to have class and carry
themselves in a more confident way. They generally handle stress better
too. Show/pleasure people are not necessarily worried about breeding and
sometimes this causes a disconnect in the negotiation.
6. Stalls are assigned at the track and each trainer has a certain number of
stalls. They are expected to make a certain number of starts per stall per
month. Starts are races in which a trainer runs a horse. In Maryland, a
trainer is expected to make one start per stall per month. It’s not that easy
to do when you consider, some of the horses might be young horses who’ve
never started or a horse coming off a rest period. There is pressure to keep
horses who are racing in each stall. If a trainer is not making his quota
51
he risks losing his stall assignments. Resources are also limited. Most trainers
do not want horses that are not viable taking their time or the time of their
employees. It’s hard to keep enough good employees for horses in training.
6. Trainers need horses that can race. They need owners to keep and buy
new competitive horses. It’s easier to get them to purchase a new horse
when the retired horse is sold. Many trainers are happier if the horse is sold
outside the racing industry. For me, it’s because once I know the horse is
not competitive, I do not want him to suffer the kind of life these horses
usually have - dropping down in price to lesser and lesser tracks until they
end up in a kill pen. Many trainers do not want another trainer to get the
horse and do well. Owners get mad about this even if they weren’t willing to
do what it would have taken to get the horse competitive.
7. There are certain times that are better than others to shop at the track.
Every track has separate “meets”. These are designated time periods during
which each trainer must apply for stalls and list his runners on the application. The end of the meet is a good time to buy. Some trainers are shipping out to other tracks and are selling any horses that are not competitive
instead of shipping them to the new location. In areas that have a cold winter there is no grass racing, consequently at the end of the fall meet is a
great time to buy a horse that is competitive only on the grass. Unless a
horse is racing for big money, it’s not economically smart to carry him all
winter until the spring meet. Grass horses tend to have less soundness issues and generally are raced less. During the winter, many trainers would
like to have fewer horses to train. Everything is much harder to do during
the winter months.
8. Many workers at the track are migrants. They all have to go home for two to
four months each year. Their visas expire at the same time, causing a shortage of qualified workers. If you know when this happens in the state you
are shopping in, it can be a great time to strike a deal on a new prospect.
9. The foal certificate or papers as they are commonly referred to, enhance the
value of the horse. Be sure to ask if the trainer will allow you to have them if
you purchase the horse. Some trainers never allow the papers to go with the
horse. Each racehorse that's run has a tattoo on the underside of his top
lip. It is a number preceded by a letter. This number is on the foal certificate. The first two numbers on the certificate are replaced by the letter. The
letter denotes the age of the horse and repeats every 26 years. Lip tattoos
often become hard to read with age.
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Here is an explanation of the meaning of the letters in a tattoo:
A=1971 B=1972 C=1973 D=1974 E=1975 F=1976 G=1977 H=1978 I=1979
J=1980 K=1981 L=1982 M=1983 N=1984 O=1985 P=1986 Q=1987 R=1988
S=1989 T=1990 U=1991 V=1992 W=1993 X=1994 Y=1995 Z=1996 A=1997
B=1998 C=1999 D=2000 E=2001 F=2002 G=2003 H=2004 I=2005 J=2006
K=2007 L=2008
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So You Bought a Horse Off the Track,
Now What Do You Do?
So you bought a horse off the track, now what do you do?
A note on registration papers: The protocol in racing is whomever has the papers is
the owner. We generally don't ever sign them simply because of the claiming aspect. When a horse is claimed at the races, the papers are in the Secretary's office
and the claimer puts the money for the horse into his account. He drops a claim slip
some 15 minutes before post and when the horse leaves the starting gate, he is the
new owner. The money goes to the former owner and the registration papers are
placed into the new owner’s folder. No signing is ever done— at least in this jurisdiction. A bill of sale or even a cancelled check can illustrate proof of ownership.
When you bring a racehorse to the farm, he is still a racehorse. This is his identity and
purpose. He has no idea that his purpose and destiny have changed. It will take a
while for your former competitor to become accustomed to a completely new life. This
is the first step in “letting him down”. Keep the transition simple, if he is overwhelmed
with changes, he will be excited and confused.
When the horse leaves the racetrack he is “tight”. Tight meaning he is conditioned to
run both physically and mentally. The muscles developed are those of a runner, not a
gymnast and consequently you are going to be responsible for transforming this athlete both physically and mentally.
In the first days after leaving the track the horse will appear what many describe as
“waspy”. Meaning his abdomen is tight and tucked up. In the coming days the horse
will “let down” and it will drop and relax considerably. Along with the tight abdomen is
a tight back. This too will let go and relax without any help from you other than supplying some time. The time it takes to let down is directly connected with the mental
state of the horse. Whether you decide to give him a break while he lets down is a
decision you have to make for each individual horse.
A horse that is high strung and filled with anxiety will take much longer, perhaps several weeks to begin to let down. A relaxed type will do it in days. You can ride them
before they let down, but resist the temptation to force their head down if it is up. Allow them to let go in the back and the head will come down. Try to force or coax it
down and usually you will generate anxiety, interfering with the let down process. In
addition, you will start creating resistance because physically and mentally the horse
isn’t ready for what you are asking.
Don’t forget that this horse is extremely fit to race, but lacks the muscle development
for 20 meter circles and even hills. Racetracks are flat – perfectly flat. You can ride
the horse when he arrives at your farm, after all he has been ridden most every day
before he arrived there. I have seen lots of horses go through a depression because
they are not receiving the amount of human attention they got at the track.
55
Someone rode them every day and the groom spend all morning with them. That
amounts to hours of attention and human interaction.
I do normally get on a horse the day he/she arrives, unless they have a physical issue
that dictates time off. This helps me to plan the course I will take in his or her training. I understand that their back is tight and I don’t worry if they are carrying their
head a bit high, that will subside in the next few days as I ride on a long rein and keep
my lower back very supple so I don’t block the relaxation of the horse’s back muscles
and prevent him from letting go.
I will inject that I always begin longeing and behavior modification on the first day as
well, but I don’t spend more than ten minutes total introducing both. The time I devote to these activities will increase in the next couple weeks.
Retraining begins as soon as you take your new horse out of the racing environment
whether you ride him or not. You must instill new rules. If you do not set down new
boundaries, you are still teaching the horse how to behave, just not the desirable way
to behave. The next section covers the retraining, this is the time to begin the behavior modification explained on page 64.
Though humans are descendants of the caveman, we live in houses with running
water, heat and air conditioning just to name a few creature comforts. Most of us
have no desire to live in a cave or outside. The point is, racehorses live inside a barn,
this is comfortable to them. Most are not going to understand or like it if you put
them out in a field to live. Some people have expressed concerns about the lives
racehorses lead. My experiences have shown me most horses love their life as
racehorses, I do know the horses that are not happy with that type of life benefit from
a different one.
The comfort of the racehorse is very important to most trainers and grooms.
Uncomfortable racehorses are not happy and are more likely to injure themselves. For
these reasons, racehorses are used to being catered to. If it’s hot, they have
fans. Irritation from flies can damage feet and legs, so they are not tolerated; fly
spray or nets are employed. Baths are given every day, weather permitting. Clean
teats, sheaths and docks are required.
Get as much information as you can from the trainer/seller. You will need to know
things like the dates and type of last vaccinations, deworming and dental. Find out
what his diet/feeding program is. The amount and brand of grain and type of hay are
extremely important to know. Some horses are used to getting a mash once or twice
a week. An abrupt end to this could be devastating. Most horses receive electrolytes
so it’s important you at least have salt readily available.
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I can make a solid argument for resting a horse before starting his training. A rest period rests mind and body, including the mouth. You will be totally re-schooling the
communication with the horse’s mouth. Also, racehorses are fed much more than
other disciplines. It's beneficial to get him off the “grain high”. Any aches or pains will
take care of themselves with a little vacation time. Some of these horses have been in
constant work for a long time.
Turning the horse out for a rest is never a bad decision and if he has any physical issues, it’s the best option. Race training provides an adrenaline rush for the horse every
day. There is an addiction to this and horses can suffer from depression until returned
to some type of training. Part of the letting down process involves breaking this cycle.
There are horses that need to keep working. They are not comfortable without a
job. These horses may be unhappy turned out. They might even produce unwanted
behavior to fill the void left by not having a job. Walking the fence, weaving or chewing wood, may not be old habits the seller failed to disclose. They may have developed because the horse needs something to do.
Racehorses are used to the “attention” training provides. Many have a good work
ethic and become bored and depressed with too much time off. They just do not like
being out of work. For this reason it may be wise to start some type of training schedule upon arrival to the farm. It may be very light and easy training so as to rest the
horse, but keep him happy too.
If you're going to let him down, you need to decide on the length of rest period. Based on my experiences the length of time should be at least six weeks. You
should also know that bone heals in 4 months, so if there's a question or hint of a
problem you may want to give him the four months. At that time you can be assured
that his mouth, soft tissue and bone structure are amply rested.
If you're uncomfortable with the prospect of transitioning the horse yourself you can
easily find a professional to do it. After the horse is let down, he will be relaxed and
ready to start his new career. There are lots of farms that specialize in letting racehorses down for owners and trainers. This service is needed for racehorses that need a
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Racehorses are fed on a very rigid schedule. The are accustomed to a high quality
diet and may have trouble digesting hay of lesser quality, at least in the beginning.
Racehorses are fed significantly more than other horses as referenced in the portion of
this book that covers life at the track. It is also well known that Thoroughbreds require more food than most other breeds.
When we bring the horse home to the farm we are aware that he is on a “grain high”.
Our common feeding is two quarts of Hay Stretcher twice per day, a two quarts of alfalfa hay cubes twice per day, a half cup of corn oil once per day and all the hay they
want. The hay stretcher is pelleted and I believe much easier to digest. The corn oil
is high in fat and aids in digestion. I do not give any grain in order to get them off the
“grain high” as soon as possible and also because they are being taken out of the demanding work they have known and are either resting or in light work. Most horses
on this diet maintain a good weight and settle into farm life quickly on this diet. If
they aren’t maintaining a good weight I usually treat them for ulcers.
Now is as good a time as any to mention that a popular treat at the track is peppermints. You may find your former racehorse is a peppermint monster.
Keep in mind that in the fall, before the grass goes away, it is wise to significantly increase the hay you give to the Thoroughbred. This may be true for other breeds, but
I have only observed the Thoroughbred. Two things happen that make this significant
increase necessary. One I’ve already stated, the nutritional value of the grass goes
away for the winter. The other is the need for the horse to generate heat as the temperatures fall. It’s very common for horses to drop weight at this time of year. Their
requirement for forage increases and it’s been my experience that increasing grain will
not produce the desired results. When you increase the grain the horse does not
seem to maintain a healthy weight, but he does become “high spirited”, which in most
cases is undesirable. Increasing the amount of hay maintains a healthy weight and
the horse remains level headed.
This is the time to evaluate any problems the horse may have with your vet. A bad
appetite can have many causes. Stomach ulcers or bad teeth can be the root of this
problem. Horses with bad teeth or ulcers may be nervous, have a poor coat or dull
temperament. You can run a cbc to check the horse’s blood for anemia or other
problems. Lots of retiring racehorses are body sore, this is not a permanent problem
and can be treated with bute and a rest period. An equine chiropractor could be very
helpful also.
If you do not have your own trailer, it’s usually easy to find someone located at the
track to move your new horse. The nature of racing is that horses move around
frequently, consequently there are lots of people willing to ship a horse for a fee. You
only have to ask the seller for names.
58
rest, have had surgery or an injury that requires time off. You can ask around at the
track and get good referrals to farms that offer this service.
Consider the type of facilities you have before making the decision to bring a horse
from the track to the farm. You will need a round pen or small paddock. He’s been
trained to run, so he’s likely to run if you put him out in a large field. The turnout area
needs to be in a quiet place free of activity. It's also good to have a stall for him in a
quiet area of the barn, but near at least one other horse.
The first thing to do is allow the horse to accept the new routine. Many horses will be
nervous and unsure until they acclimate to this new schedule. Each horse is an individual and while most take only a few days to a week to settle in, some take much
longer. Racehorses are used to being inside most of the time. They are very comfortable with it. They do not appreciate flies biting them or the sun making them too hot.
They do not like to be cold either, they are used to that comfy blanket.
Cut your new horse's grain way back and supplement with plenty of hay. I have found
timothy alfalfa cubes to be great for putting weight on without a "high".
It’s a good idea to deworm monthly for the first three months with different dewormers. I always have their teeth checked by my dentist before riding them. I remove
the horse’s racing plates. Toe grabs, outer rims, stickers and jar caulks all increase the
traction of the horse. There is a price for increased traction. It stops the natural
movement of the horse. Without these shoes, your new horse will likely move better
and avoid unwanted soundness issues.
Although Thoroughbreds are notorious for sensitive feet, remember most of these
horses have had four shoes continuously for years. On top of that they are accustomed to perfect, manicured footing. Think of the first time you go barefoot in the
summer and equate it with the result you may see for a few days after pulling their
shoes. Even if I put regular front shoes on, I pull the hind shoes when they come to
my farm. I expect to see some foot soreness for at least a few days. Occasionally, I
am prompted to put the hind shoes back on because their feet just are not
ready. Even riding cross country with four shoes will toughen their feet.
There is an art to turning a racehorse out, especially in the beginning. I believe in
turning them out as soon as possible when they arrive at the farm. I like the horse to
understand why he’s there. Instead of creating anxiety by keeping him in while he
wonders why he's there, I prep him to go out in the round pen, even if it's for a few
minutes.
If you're going to turn him out on grass, make the transition slowly and carefully, as
most racehorses have not had grass for quite awhile. Grass is a good distraction
though and can make it easier to get the horse to settle down. Ask the trainer if the
horse has spent any time on the farm recently. Some racehorses do get regular turn
59
out on the farm. Beware of the sun. Since they are inside most of the time, racehorses will get a terrible sunburn if put out all day with no shade.
When you do turn them out, particularly in the beginning you will want to protect their
legs and feet. Protective boots and bell boots are good protection. I do not like polo
bandages as they can come undone and harm the horse before you can catch him and
take them off.
You can talk to your vet about using a mild tranquilizer when first turning him
out. This can keep the horse calmer and avoid unnecessary injuries. If I feel the
horse needs calming for turn-out, I start by giving acepromazine orally 40 to 50 minutes before the planned turn out. In my particular situation, if they are coming from
Bowie, I give it to them there and by the time they reach the farm they are
ready. The acepromazine just takes the edge off and when given orally, I have found
that it doesn’t make them as uncoordinated as when given by injection.
Once the tranquilizer takes effect, I put them in one of my round pens, making sure
there is a horse in the pen beside that's calm and won't add to, or encourage the new
horse to run. If possible choose the horse you will be turning him out with for the first
time in a field. That way they will already be familiar with each other. I do not believe in letting them sniff noses. They will do that on their own when turned out together. To me, allowing horses to sniff noses with a fence between them is just asking for an injury. Their nature is to sniff, then squeal and strike. With a fence in between them, they hit their knees or even get a leg hung up in the fence. Not to mention the
possibility they will injure you. Although many times they do run a bit, it is
much less enthusiastic.
I do not leave the horse unattended and if he becomes agitated or boisterous, I bring
him into the barn. Horses learn very quickly that if they run, they are going back in
the stall. That is, if you bring them in EVERY time they start running. Every horse is
different, but generally in the first few days they do not spend more than an hour
out. I gradually increase the time out and keep a close watch.
Do not allow lots of activity around the horse while turned out. Horses being ridden,
tractors, lawn mowers and even cars driving in and out of the farm are all possible
catalysts to get the horse running. The more quiet you keep the atmosphere, the
more likely the transition to turn out will be successful. I gradually wean him off the
acepromazine, usually within the first week until he doesn’t need it any longer.
When the horse is being turned out in the round pen for 4 or 5 hours per day without
incident, I make the transition to putting him out in a field with another horse. Preferably a small size field with no trees or solid objects in it. I turn them out first in the
morning when no other horses are out. If they do start running, it’s not encouraged by
horses in every other field on the farm. They stay out as long as they behave.
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Developing the habit of coming to you when it's time to come in is important. It’s best
to call the horse and wait until he comes to you rather than going out in the field or
round pen to get him. When he does come to you, reward him generously with pats
or some kind of positive attention.
Horses that pace back and forth along the fence usually want in. They are not used to
being turned out and they do not like it. You can get most horses to stop this behavior
in time. I think it’s best to turn them out for even just 10 minutes a couple times a
day and then gradually increase the time as they settle in. I have found this works
better than just allowing them to walk the fence for hours. There are horses that do
not do well in the round pen, and are fine once turned out in a field with other horses.
From the beginning I set aside a short amount of time when I work on behavior modification, cross tying, grooming, and picking the feet. Eventually I'll extend the time to
include longeing and eventually riding.
Many people, who get an ottb, think they have been handled only by men at the track
who do not care about manners. That simply is not true. Number one, much of the
workforce at the track is women these days. Although, there are bad grooms and
handlers present, just as in any horse discipline, there are far more fantastic horsemen
who passionately care about their horses. Much of the pushiness experienced when
handling a horse fresh off the track is due to the fact we are training horses to compete with and beat one another. Confidence of the horse is a big factor and we nurture this. Pushiness is, many times a result of this confidence. That is not to say a
horse can’t be confident and mannerly, it’s just that when they are tiring and running
down to the wire, the toughest horse, the one that wants it the most is going to win,
not the horse who minds him human the best.
The feeding and training program places the horse right at the edge mentally. We
take that into consideration when he displays unbecoming behavior. We understand
how good he's feeling and the stress he is under. Horsemen do not demand more
than is absolutely necessary in the way of discipline. It is true that in many cases we
let them “get away” with being rude. The racehorse is asked to be tolerant about so
many things and we are willing to accept behavior that is not acceptable outside of
racing. Large barns have a higher turn over of workers; so many times the manners
are not the priority of the trainer, with so many other issues to deal with.
There are some bad manners you will commonly find in ottb's. Biting or snapping at
you, when you walk by the stall is more often than not an attempt to get attention. I
have found that by grabbing the halter and patting or scratching his head will quickly
teach the horse to stop biting or snapping. What initially seems like a biter is actually
a horse snapping in the air at me. I am not suggesting you allow the horse to bite
you, but keep in mind he’s had a routine - possibly for years where he snaps or bites,
and the handler hits or punishes or plays with him. It’s his game and he gets
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attention every time he does this. In a short amount of time the horse will stop looking for attention by biting and instead look to you for an enjoyable scratch. Vicious
biters are very rare and must be punished immediately and quickly. If the horse is a
biter because he is on Equipoise or some other hormone, in time it will be out of his
system and the desire to bite will subside.
Everyone who approaches and works with horses from the track has steady, purposeful hands and mannerisms. They are professionals and never work with or touch the
horse in a tentative way. Many outsiders make retiring racehorses nervous because
these horses are not accustomed to being handled by anyone who is afraid or unsure
of themselves. Horses are prey animals and their intincts tell them to resist and flee
from a predator. If you approach the horse in that “nice horsey, I’m not going to hurt
you.” manner, he will likely interpret it as you creeping up on him. The racetracker
approaches the racehorse with a purpose in mind and goes about the business of handling him. This is not the same as manhandling the horse or pushing him around.
Your movements should be smooth and deliberate.
Remember if you are uptight when handling your new horse, he will feel it and
become uptight or nervous too. Do not try to handle/train your new horse while he’s
upset or nervous. Wait until he’s calm. It’s a good idea to turn your horse out before
beginning the training session that day. Whether you are riding, longeing or working
on the ground with him. You will find he is better able to focus on what you are trying
to accomplish that day.
Racehorses do not have a long attention span. You need to realize their training
sessions, including a bath and walking to cool out, last at most an hour, so keep in
mind he may become fidgety or even unreceptive after a given amount of time. Just
as with small children, attention spans can be developed. Gradual is the best way to
do this. Pushing passed a horse’s attention span usually results in bad behavior. Do
not be tentative when handling or riding an ottb. Show the horse confidence, that’s
what he’s used to. Always end on a good note and reward often. A pat or good boy
is sufficient. If at any time you and the horse suffer a set back in his training, go a
few steps back to what he was doing confidently.
One thing to be aware of is exercise riders do not tighten the girth until they are on
the horse, most of the time walking down the shedrow. A horse newly off the track
will resent the pulling tight of the girth before you get on. He may even snap at you in
an attempt to tell you to cut it out. The best way to approach this is to put the girth
on, but not snug and then gently bring it up a hole at a time over several minutes, to
give the horse a chance to get used to this.
When the rider comes back from galloping/training the horse, he rides the horse right
back into the stall. The hotwalker or groom is waiting with the halter and a shank. The
rider gets off the horse, removes the saddle and then the bridle. The hotwalker or
62
groom immediately slips the halter on the horse when the bridle is removed. This is
what a horse off the track expects. When you get off your horse and then remove the
bridle yourself, you have to develop a new routine for the horse.
Racehorses are used to having their legs worked on everyday. They get standing
bandages in the stall and most trainers have specific leg preps before racing such as a
poultice or a sweat. Many horses race and train in protective bandages.
Consequently, you should have little problem with bandaging and leg work.
Yes, it is true that lots of times racehorses are allowed to pull the hot walker around
the barn. They carry on and play, and this too is allowed. The same horse is expected
to knock it off when necessary. The reason for this is the horse is sharp and feeling
good which is the goal. Some horses do walk quietly around the barn and still win
races, but many more play and pull. Horsemen accept this because it is a sign the
horse is feeling great and ready to win a race. We are trying to build the confidence
and in the horse so he will compete with other horses and prevail in the end of the
race, when he is most tired.
Racehorses are used to getting a bath everyday the weather permits. Most like this
and are used to being clean. They are however, accustomed to having one personhold them and another give the bath. This may cause the horse to be confused in the
beginning when you give them a bath by yourself. A bit of patience to allow him to
figure out it’s just a one man bath will answer any question the horse has about this
new routine. Many racehorses have not been in a wash stall, so keep this in mind. Although they are becoming more common at racetracks, there are many places that
still do not have them.
Shipping is a normal part of racing. Horses are shipped to be broken, moved to the
racetrack. Most of the time they ship on race day. It’s quite easy to transition this to
shipping to school the horse or a show. Just keep in mind the horse will need a few
trips to change his expectations. Racing is regimented and the horse has learned
that shipping usually means excitement. As in any discipline, we have our bad shippers. This can be caused by the horse not wanting to be a racehorse which is easily
cured when he realizes you are not taking him to the races. Provided he doesn’t mind
the new activity. We also have our bad horsemen who mess up the horse’s traveling
manners and these are probably the hardest to fix. Although, patience and encouragement will usually take care of the horse’s apprehension.
Flat horses do not cross tie, but stand quietly on a tie chain which is located in the
back of their stall. Most of the time when out side of the stall one person holds the
horse and another works on him, for example when getting a bath. If you're dealing
with a small trainer, the horse may ground tie or stand while one person bathes or
works on him. I always rode, bathed and walked out my own horses.
63
Most racehorses have a very large vocabulary of words. Remember they are handled
365 days a year and most of the time by more than one person. Ho is universal for
stand, stop. I do not think I ever galloped a racehorse that did not know what Ho
meant. Most are taught walk, trot and canter when they are broken. Many horses
know what easy means. Spoken is a very calm way, it means trust me, do not
worry, its okay. Over, is used when cleaning the stall while the horse is in it, and
also while grooming or saddling the horse. Most of my horses stay on one side of
the stall while I clean it and then I quietly say, “Over” and they move over to the
other side. This is fairly common at the track. High pitched whistle, the shsssst
sound and clucking are all used to tell the horse to run in the stretch and out of the
gate. Some horses will give you a big response when you use these sounds because
it means ACTION TIME to them. A soothing type of whistle, sort of like a singing
asks the horse to pee. This is taught to them so that the groom may encourage the
horse to urinate after the race in the test barn. You cannot leave the detention barn
until they collect the urine for testing.
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Tips for Retraining and Riding
Your New Thoroughbred
Tips for Retraining and Riding Your New Thoroughbred
Every horse is an individual, so I cannot give you a "cookie cutter" answer to how to
retrain your off track Thoroughbred. Whether you got him directly off the track or
from a farm, each horse has his own training requirements. These are based on many
variables including, physical strengths, confirmation and temperament. Add to that,
previous injuries and different race training styles and it's clear you will have to use
your own judgment when working with your new horse.
I work with countless horses coming off the track and I would like to share just some
of the things I have learned from them. The following covers some of the techniques
I employ when a horse comes to me. Including how I answer some of the basic questions the horse has about his retraining.
When a racehorse first arrives at the farm after retirement from racing life, he doesn't
realize he's no longer a racehorse. It's not only a job to him, it's his identity. The absolute first thing we do with each horse is to employ behavior modification training.
The method we use has been developed by Elizabeth Madlener. She assisted me in
outlining it for this book. The term sounds complicated, but it is actually a very easy
to implement. It is a method that will start you and your new horse off on the right
hoof, so to speak.
Use a lead shank with a chain like those all racehorses
are accustomed to. Put it over the horse's nose. You
will also need a longe whip or dressage whip. This
work is done in an indoor or along a fence. You want
to walk the horse along a fence or the indoor wall to
keep the horse straight. You must require his focus to
be on you at all times. He must look straight ahead,
not at you or any other thing. This seems easy, but
you will find that most of the time when we lead horses
they are paying attention to everything but us and this
work is the first step in gaining the horse's confidence.
Position yourself at his shoulder and halt along the
fence or wall. [Keep a loose hold on the shank. Don't
try to hold him with the shank--he must learn to walk in
your tempo, not his. If he leans into you, use your elbow or a tap of the whip to keep him out of your space.
Use the same voice command each time. First use the horse's name, wait a beat, and
say "ho" in a low but commanding tone. Say "ho" slowly but firmly. Remember, you
are not requesting him to stop. You are commanding him to stop. Be sure to stay by
his shoulder and not give him any clues like pulling on the shank as you say "ho" and /
or stopping before he does.
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If he backs up, stay with him, right by his shoulder and repeat the command, perhaps
touching him with the whip if he continues to back. You do want to use the word "ho"
rather than "whoa" because "whoa" is not so sharp and clear.
Say the word. Give the
horse a chance to respond and then shank
the horse for the halt. If
you do not understand
how to shank a horse I
will explain here. At the
track when we require
the horse to focus on us
we use a sharp downward motion on the
shank. This is a quick
pull and release. Another method of encouraging the horse to halt is
to bump the end of his
nose with the butt of the
whip. I want to emphasize you are not to whip the horse in the face, but to bump the
end of his nose with the handle of the whip. In all work you must be fair. You must
tell the horse to "Ho" and then give him a chance to halt and then and only then either
shank or bump the horse to get the halt. You will be surprised at how quickly the
horse learns to halt on your voice command.
To walk, stand by the horse's shoulder and use the voice command “walk.” Give the
horse a chance to respond and if he doesn't, reach behind yourself and tap him with
the whip. If he juts or lunges ahead shank or bump his nose and say "ho". NO! Stay
alert during this moment of rebellion as he may run into you as he rushes forward. If
you are quick and alert, he won't try that again.
He will quickly learn to respond to these basic voice commands, but more than that,
this is a lesson on focusing and interacting with the human in a polite way. At all
times require the horse to look forward. He is not to look around and be distracted by
anything that is going on. This is the time of day that he is to completely focus on you
and the work you are doing together. This exercise sets the tone or builds the foundation of everything else you do with the horse. After all, if the horse doesn't know and
immediately respond to the simple instructions of stop and go, he is not really broke.
This lesson also makes the horse's job much easier, instilling confidence in him. He
quickly learns to understand that his only job is to listen to you and you will take care
of him. This allows the horse to let go of his instinct of flight. Hence the term
"flighty". Much of the anxiety horses display is a direct result of being put in a position
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where they are responsible for their own welfare. In the herd, someone has to be the
leader and all others follow. You want your horse to understand that he doesn't have
to be responsible for his own welfare.
When your horse drops his head in a relaxed position, he has accepted you as being
the one in charge, and he now knows that he doesn't have to be concerned about his
environment--you will take care of him. This acceptance soon turns into trust and
then into confidence. This is the beginning of teamwork.
Be sure to do this work from the right side as well as
from the left side. The right side initially can pose problems as most horses are not used to being led from the
right, and you may get the feeling that you are working
with a brand new horse, but he will quickly come
around.
Having been a professional exercise rider for years, I
usually get on them the first or second day they are
here. This helps me determine a game plan. Please understand that I know how to ride them correctly at the
track so it's easier for me to retrain their aids, because I
can start out where they are, not where I want them to
be. I ride them as an exercise rider and we gradually
work our way to riding horse.
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About Longeing
Why longe a horse? There are some very good reasons to longe a horse and you must
not lose site of them when you begin this exercise. Never longe a horse to punish him
or to tire him out so you can ride him. This will sour him to the real benefits you can
derive from working with a horse on the longe.
Understand that horses learn what you teach them, so be careful not to teach him to
run away from you. Too often I see people teaching a horse to longe by chasing them
around with a whip. If you do this do not be surprised if the horse runs away from
you or later you cannot catch him when it’s time to come in from the field. It is very
important when you longe a horse that you remain in one place as much as possible.
This keeps the horse relaxed because he knows where you are at all times. It also
requires him to do a circle which makes him work his inside hind leg effectively. If the
horse is stuck and stops, attempt to encourage him to go on with the whip, using your
voice commands to ask him to walk on. If you have to get after him, step toward him
and use the whip, but as soon as he moves off, go back to the same spot you were
longeing him from. You will find the horse will begin to relax and listen to your voice
commands when you do this consistently.
Racehorses do steer, but rarely turn. At first, this is hard for most of them to do. It’s
easier for them to learn turning without the weight of a rider. By longeing, you will be
developing new muscle the racehorse doesn’t yet have. This is the muscle he will need
to lift his back and carry you in a balanced manner. We longe the ottb to teach him to
work in a small area, which is something he is not used to. He must find his balance
and learn to carry himself without the aid of momentum. It’s also helpful in
establishing the new training routine. Another goal is to get him to relax.
Longeing should be used as a training aid. To teach the horse to find his balance on a
small circle. It is also a great way to teach him the voice commands you will use, such
as walk, trot, canter and the all important "Ho". This is also the time to define your
relationship with him or her. By this I mean the horse should understand he is to do
what you ask, not what he wants to do. I'll elaborate on this point further on in our
discussion about longeing. You have to use judgment with each horse, because
longeing for too long or too frequently in the beginning will sour and even make the
horse sore.
Once the horse understands the basics of longeing, try transitions. Such as having
the horse walk, trot, walk, halt, walk, canter, trot, canter, etc. You will be teaching
the horse to be attentive and obedient. He will learn about engagement. You will be
rewarded with an improved ride and better gait transitions when you are
mounted. Longeing will give you an opportunity to build a relationship with your new
horse before riding him.
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There is the possibility your new horse
already knows how to longe. Lots of
racehorses are longed during the breaking process. I do not have any definite
numbers, but I know lots of people who
break racehorses, employ longeing as a
part of their breaking regime.
There are tools you will need to longe
your horse properly. A 45 ft. longe line
without a chain on the end, is what I
prefer. A longeing caveson or bridle
without reins. You can tie the reins up in the throat latch to get them out of the
way. A longe whip to be used as an aid, not to hurt the horse. A contained area to
start the horse with good footing. It’s a good idea to use protective boots or polo
bandages to guard the legs against injury.
Remember safety comes first. If you’ve never longed a horse before, it’s better to
learn with a horse that already knows how to do it. It takes time to correctly coordinate the longe line, longe whip and horse, simultaneously. Add to that a horse that
doesn’t understand what to do, and you have a potential safety issue. If at all possible
I suggest finding a friend who has a horse that knows how to longe and ask them if
you can learn with their horse. It’s usually not that difficult to find someone who’ll let
you longe their horse. Longeing doesn’t have the reputation as being the most enjoyable activity you can do with your horse. However, done correctly, it can be one of
the most productive.
Wear gloves, a safety vest and a helmet whenever you longe a horse. Never longe your horse
on too small of a circle. It puts too much stress
on his joints and he could be injured. A round
pen is the best place to begin a horse off the
track on the longe. An indoor or small paddock
is also a workable option.
Fold the longe line back and forward over itself
in your hand, never wrap it around your
hand. Make sure it’s not twisted and is
comfortable in your hand.
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Racehorses have been trained to go from a stand still
to racing speed. It’s not uncommon for them to cut
and run when they become frustrated with the circle. It can be so fast that you do not have time to let
go of the longe line, causing rope burns and possibly
dropping you to the ground.
Never, ever, allow the longe line to become wrapped
around any part of your body, including your fingers,
hand(s), waist, neck or feet. People have been
injured and even killed this way. When you're
reversing the horse’s direction, do not let the longe
line drag on the ground because it could get caught
in between his legs or wrapped around your legs.
Never longe a lame horse, except to assess that
lameness under the supervision of a vet. If your
horse is moving in an unusual way due to a lameness, he could be further injured. Never longe your
horse in only one direction. Longeing is quite stressful to his joints, and doing it in
only one direction is a sure-fire way to make your horse sore.
There are different procedures for longeing a horse. What follows are my thoughts on
how to do it.
Put the bridle on your horse with a simple snaffle bit. Remove the reins or tie them so
the horse won't step through them and hurt himself. Thread the line through the side
of the bit (the D ring for instance) then up over the poll, behind his ears, and then
back through the bit on the other side. Snap the lead on to the opposite side from
where you are standing so that if you are working the horse in a clockwise circle, the
snap is on the left, and the line is
threaded through and comes out the
right side of the bit. When you work
with the horse, this equalizes tension
on the bit and better approximates the
feel of the rider's hand on the reins. It
also helps to balance the horse, and
gives him less opportunity to lean on
one side or the other. Later when the
horse has learned to longe, we put the
longe line through the bit and over the
nose instead of over the pole. Sometimes this is necessary with very strong
horses in the beginning.
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Position yourself in the center of the ring. If you're longeing to the left, hold the longe
line in your left hand and your whip in your right hand. Form an imaginary triangle,
with the horse's body, the longe line and the whip. Face the middle of the horse.
Send the horse out on the circle by asking for walk or "move out" and letting the longe
line slip though your fingers. Do not allow him to run out, make him walk. In the beginning the horse will not do a perfect circle. He will cut in, do not make a big deal of
this, just keep the longe line out of his way, by shortening and letting it back out. Remember, you want a big circle, not a small one. Point the whip slightly behind the
horse to ask him to go and put it behind you when not giving a signal. Be relaxed and
calm
Start out at the walk. If the horse is excited and starts to canter or trot, I allow that in
the first week, but I never let him run out to the end at the very beginning. I do use
calming words to try to get him to settle and walk, but I do not insist until the horse
begins to understand how to longe. The goal in the beginning is to get the horse to
accept going in such a tight circle and to relax.
Assign specific words for walk, trot, canter and stop. Use them consistently so the
horse understands what you want. This will come in handy when you start riding
him. Control the horse's speed and pace with voice aids or clicking your
tongue. Commands such as “walk on”, “trot on”, “canter” and “whoa” are universally
employed. Use intonation to help with upward and downward transitions. Let your
voice go higher for upward walk from the halt and lower for downward walk from the
trot.
Ask for more forward action by using a voice command, followed by showing him the
whip. To slow the horse, say "Ho" with downward intonation in your voice. (lower
your voice as you say "Ho"), let the whip point down and away.
To stop the horse, say "Hooooooo and lower your voice, if he doesn't stop, say it again
more firmly. When teaching the horse to stop you can head him into the wall or fence
as you say "Ho". Be ready if the horse reacts, and wait for the horse to relax and
listen to you again. Keep the horse from turning in or falling in on the circle by pointing the whip at the horse’s shoulder. Be sure to teach the horse all three gaits on the
longe. Do not overlook the walk and require him to walk on.
When he is stopped, walk towards him, taking in the longe rein as you go. Walk out
to the horse, do not reel him in to you. That is in effect, teaching him to "run over"
you. Make sure you fold the rein rather than roll it, to lessen the danger of the rein
tightening around your hand if the horse takes off.
To longe the horse in the other direction (called "changing the rein"), first halt the
horse. Change the longe line to the opposite side of the bit, walk with the horse back
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to the center of the circle and then encourage him to
walk out on to the circle in the new direction. Keep
the whip in hand while you work on the horse. People have been injured or killed by bending down to
pick up the whip off the ground.
Try not to make the experience a big deal if the horse
gets excited or upset. Just let him figure it out. Remember you're asking a lot of him. At this point the
horse is struggling for balance, which until now he’s
achieved through momentum and traction. Most of the time, we pull their shoes and
then make them travel in an area much smaller than they are used to. It must feel
like they have been thrown out on ice. It may be frightening at first until they find
their new balance. So be patient.
It’s best to start horse at no more than 5 minutes on each side. This is hard work for
the racehorse and we do not want him to learn to hate it. You can slowly increase the
time as he becomes more comfortable with it. Normally the right side is tougher for
the horse than the left, but not always. Many people say it’s because the racehorse
only goes to the left, but I do not believe that's true. They jog the wrong way of the
racetrack and that’s to the right. I have broken quite a few unraced horses for disciplines other than racing. Some of them had more trouble with the right side too.
When the horse is comfortable longeing both ways, I put on side reins, very loosely at
first. These introduce the horse to the new contact we want to develop. The side
reins coupled with the circle are a very effective way to start building both muscle and
the skills needed in a riding horse.
If you decide to employ trotting poles, start with one. When the horse is comfortable
with it go to two. Do not rush this process. Trotting poles are good because they
encourage the horse to reach down and take a look. This stretches his top line. It's
also the first step in learning to jump. Trotting poles make the horse look where he’s
putting his feet , which is a fundamental of jump training.
About Mounting
Before you get on your new horse, I'll offer some thoughts on mounting him. A racehorse is used to being pulled out of the stall by the groom and having the rider given a
leg up in the shedrow immediately. As the horse walks down the shedrow, the rider
tightens the girth, ties a knot in the reins and then adjusts the stirrups. All of this
takes place before the horse walks out of the barn. This is what the horse expects.
I have one of those portable plastic mounting blocks. I put it in the arena or out in
the open if I’m going to hack. I take my time and do not rush this.
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Most of the time I walk the horse up to it and step onto the mounting block. I do not
get up fast; I slowly swing my leg over him and sit down very lightly Occasionally, I
have to get someone to hold the horse, but this is usually not necessary.
Since I’ve already done my behavior modification the horse knows exactly what ho
means and responds to it. I say ho and when he stops I put my foot in the iron and
repeat the word ho. If he begins to move at all I take my foot out and as he walks
around the block I repeat ho. I don’t get mad or upset because I know he’ll get sick
of walking around the block. I use this to my advantage because it’s only a big deal if
I get upset and react to the fact that he won’t halt. I know he will halt sooner or later
and tomorrow he will have the same choice again. They usually figure this out sooner
than later.
When he halts, I put my foot in the iron and say ho again. If he remains standing I
step up into the iron, but if he moves I start over again. I will only get on if he remains standing the entire time. I don’t care how long this takes because time spent
now will make him a great horse to mount forever. I always pat the horse once I’ve
mounted and he’s standing and then I tell him to walk off.
Most horses are easy to mount, but now and then I get one that gives me a hard time.
He probably was a horse that was mounted on the fly at the track. Meaning the rider
got a leg up while the horse was moving. It’s more difficult for them to understand.
If the horse is nervous or difficult I will begin the mounting process in the stall, doing
it much like I have outlined above with a few exceptions.
With the horse tacked up and ready to mount, I walk into the stall with the mounting
block and let the horse take a sniff. I usually do not have anyone hold the horse. But
I do have them stand in the doorway. What I don’t want is for the horse to go out the
door while I’m getting on. The rule is the same, he must stand quietly until I tell him
to walk off. I repeat the steps in the process as many times as it takes to achieve the
desired result. After a day or two, I put the same mounting block in front of the barn
or in the arena and get on there. I am certain getting on from the ground could be
approached in the same manner, but I’m not flexible enough for that these days.
Riding your new off track Thoroughbred
For new ottb owners, I recommend getting on your new horse when he longes
comfortably at all three gaits, walk, trot, canter. He should be successful in the behavior modification training as well. Longe the horse for 10 minutes on each side before
riding him. It warms up the new muscles you are developing before the rider gets on.
I believe in every ride you must reward, reward, reward. This is not to say that he
should be spoiled, but the horse must know when he is doing what you want. You
must keep in mind that it’s likely he has no idea what you want. Too often people are
quick to correct a horse when he does the wrong thing, but they forget to reward
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when he does the right thing.
Do not ask too much, too soon of your new friend. Remember your new horse doesn’t
yet have the muscles to carry you in this new way. It’s best not to put a timetable on
his progress. Each horse is an individual. When you hit an obstacle in your progress,
try something else. Do not keep doing the something you already know doesn’t work.
If you’ve tried it three times without success, why would it work the fourth time?
Keep in mind footing is going to be an issue in the beginning. When you first start
riding cross country or out of a riding ring, expect your horse to have trouble negotiating uneven footing. He may stumble or look at the ground. This will pass quickly for
most as they adjust to unlevel ground. The track is closed for harrowing each morning
during training hours, this is called a harrow break. It’s harrowed and watered between every race. He may also tire easily when going up hills, so do not do too much
hill work too soon or he will become sour.
Racehorses have a difficult time establishing rhythm in the beginning. They actually
have a very nice rhythm at the gallop and jog, but these are momentum based gaits.
When you take the momentum away they have difficulty finding their balance. Sometimes people mistake this lack of rhythm for lameness because the horse may move
unevenly in his search for balance.
When I introduce a new activity, I start on the rein that’s easiest for the horse. That’s
usually, but not always the left rein.
If your ex racehorse stops and is frozen, stop trying to go in the direction you want.
Instead encourage him to go in any direction. In other words just get him going. Ride quietly and diplomatically, use voice commands such as “walk” and “good
boy”. Over-riding him in this instance could have very bad results.
People regularly ask me how I get the horses transitioned into the new work so
quickly. The answer is both simple and complex. I know how to ride racehorses quite
well. I’m very comfortable on them. I trust them and they know it. I know for a fact
everyone of them can walk, trot, canter, and most importantly halt. I also work with a
lot of them every day. I galloped for years and now I meet new horses regularly and
get on them and retrain them. Practice makes perfect - well it makes it easier anyway.
Power Walking
One of the methods I use frequently is power walking. You will find some of the most
effective training methods are the simplest. There is nothing fancy or intriguing about
power walking, but it’s incredibly effective in introducing the new tools a racehorse will
need to find balance in the riding arena. Let’s start by defining what power walking is.
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Power walking in very forward walking. The horse’s back is swinging and he is stepping far under himself, propelling himself forward from behind. In order to do this you
must have a very relaxed back that will allow him to relax and move forward. Most of
the time you will have to encourage the horse to walk more and more forward. He
should get a work out doing this. He should be taking bigger steps than he offers. I
achieve this through use of my leg and the whip. I do not whip the horse, I tap, tap,
tap him in rhythm, making sure my back is loose and my hips are swinging with the
walk. Power walking can be done cross country or in the arena. It keeps the horse
tuned into me and not what is happening around him. It also teaches him how to
carry the rider using his back in a gait that is easiest for him to find balance in.
When a racehorse comes off the track and you take his hind shoes and his momentum
away, he is left vulnerable. He doesn’t know how to balance himself and this can lead
to all sorts of trouble, especially for the new to the ottb rider. Without the momentum
to find balance, the horse must learn how to carry both himself and the rider in a new
way. He must learn to navigate small circles and corners and how to halt and slow
down using his rear end instead of his neck.
With many horses that come here, I spend the majority of the time the first month at
the power walk. They find confidence in this and I am in a position where I am telling
them go not whoa. In the trot and canter gaits, at this point you find yourself saying
whoa, easy too much. I can introduce circles, corners, straight lines, rhythm of the
gait and proper halts all at a pace that is not intimidating. At the same time I am
developing the back and rear end muscles that are necessary to carry me in the trot
and canter.
With a horse that I intend to spend time working with, it’s not unusual for me to spend
a month power walking both in the arena and cross country. If I put them on the site
right away, I still spend most of the time power walking and only do the walk, trot,
canter to produce the video and when I am showing them. I already know they will
pick up their leads, because they knew that before they came here.
I know, this seems boring and unglamorous, but that is what most good training
methods are. They lack excitement, but build confidence and good results that build a
solid foundation for all future work.
Turning
When teaching turning, focus on keeping the body straight from poll to tail. This confined turning is new and very hard for the racehorse. He will tend to over flex or over
bend. Try turning with more weight in the inside stirrup and seat bone, the outside
rein engaged and just open the inside rein. Do not pull back on the inside rein. Once
the horse is over bent he is uncomfortable and it becomes impossible for him to go the
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direction you want. You must first straighten him and then attempt the turn again. If
the horse is over bent or rubber necking and you pull on the inside rein, he will be further over bent. He cannot turn while rubber necking because he's lost all balance and
must shift his weight to stay upright. To restore the balance, you straighten him. All
racehorses steer by weight on the inside stirrup. We turn the show or riding horse
with our inside seat bone and more weight in the inside stirrup. Don’t lean, think of
dropping your hip and weight into the inside stirrup. The horse is then turning around
that inside leg. It works, just give it a try. All horses will respond to this, it is not
something they learn, it is their reaction to the weight on the inside stirrup. This is the
best way to teach them to turn, accompanied by as little leading rein as possible. Use
legs to keep his body straight.
Use of the Reins and Hands
This is an ultra-complicated topic that I'll probably be adding to for the rest of my
life. In general, as in almost every discipline, we want to use the reins the least. They
are really a straightening influence and should not be used to bend the green
horse. Any bend should come from the inside leg. The reins are used as an accelerator in racing. When you pull back you are asking the horse to go faster. Understand
that this is not really taught to the horse, it is the horse's natural reaction to go faster
when we pull on the reins. If you want to use a leading rein to turn the horse, open
it, do not pull back.
One significant difference in the application of the reins is the way we "reward" the
horse. In show and pleasure, we use the reins to ask the horse to do something and
then we soften when he does it. That is his "reward" for doing as asked. Generally in
racing, when we ask him to do something and he submits, we "reward" him by staying
the same. That is not to say that we do not soften at times, but the racehorse is
looking for a steady connection which means security to him. This is not a death grip
it is solid, but supple. To stop the horse, sit up tall, stretching your upper body and
arch your lower back.
Close your legs and "squeeze" the horse into a fixed rein. This is better than pulling
back on the reins even though eventually most horses figure out that you are telling
them to go, but you really mean stop.
Canter Work
Racehorses have been taught how to gallop, not how to canter. Many people think
they are the same gaits and they are not. The gallop is momentum based and on the
forehand. The canter is generated from the hind end. When you ask for the canter,
stop posting, drop the weight into the inside stirrup and lead with your inside
hip. Open your outside leg. Do not put it far back, because this will cause you to
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have the weight in your outside stirrup. Whatever stirrup you have the most weight in
is the lead you are asking for. Opening your hip on the outside leg actually causes
your weight to go into the inside stirrup. At the track, we do not use the outside leg
to get the lead. Only the weight in the inside stirrup. Again, this is a reaction by the
horse, it does not have to be taught.
Expect the horse to struggle for balance. It's best to canter only a few strides and
then ask for the trot before the horse loses his balance. Gradually extend the amount
of time you canter as the horse learns. As an aside, the horse will usually speed up
when he loses his balance, keep this in mind when working in the canter. He probably
is not trying to run off, he’s more likely trying to remain upright.
When it comes time to work on flying changes, your racehorse knows how to do
this. It was an important part of his job. Changing the your weight to the new stirrup
is all it will take. The next time a race is on television, watch how the jockeys get the
new lead. You will never see them hike their outer leg back to get it. For the record, I
do not recommend working on flying changes for a long time. I want my horses to
have three solid, balanced gaits before I even approach this skill.
Etc.
Many racehorses know what spurs are. They have either had a rider use them during
the breaking process or during training. There are exercise riders who use them quite
competently.
When a racehorse prances or jumps around, most of the time he is expressing his joy
and enthusiasm. His rider at the track knew this and just sat there, relaxed and going
with the motion. This is not a reason to get uptight and does not mean the horse is
getting ready to do something bad. More often, it means he is looking forward to the
day of work. Many times this situation turns bad because his new rider is afraid and
becomes tense. This can be easily corrected by slowly teaching the horse you want
him to walk. Always try to show him what you want him to do, not what you do not
want him to do.
Many track riders do not rise on the correct diagonal at the trot. This can be a cause of
overdevelopment of one side of the horse.
About Running Off
Let’s take a moment to discuss racehorses and running off. Many people who consider
getting a horse off the track express concern about the horse running off. What is
running off? At a certain point in time during the gallop, the horse takes over and
ceases responding to the riders wishes. Most of the time he increases his speed
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drastically, but not always. I once had a horse go three miles at a very normal pace,
she just was not responding to my signals to pull up. The outrider wasn’t even aware
I was being run off with until the third mile. Generally, no one gallops a horse three
miles intentionally. I found this more unpleasant than when the horse takes off and
goes fast because the horse did not get tired.
Very few racehorses ever run off at the track. There are horses who are run offs, but
this is rare. A run off being a horse that regularly runs off with the rider. One of the
things that happens when the horse runs off is he stops responding to the bit. He
pretty much clamps down on the bit preventing the rider from using it. It’s never
good to fight the horse when he decides to run off. This exhausts the rider so he
doesn’t have the strength to pull up when the horse is ready to stop.
Most experienced exercise riders will tell you to try to hold the horse until the moment
comes when he runs off. Then relax and save your strength for the spot on the track
where he normally pulls up. It's likely that just by “sitting chilly”, the horse will be on
the verge of running off and elect not to because the rider remained still and maintained the hold. Remember the horse is considering running off until he does it, and
fighting him will make him decide to.
Sometimes, during retraining, the horse runs off because he is bored with the activity. The most common reason a horse runs off at the track is the rider breaks the
hold. Racehorses expect the rider to put their hands down and allow them to take
hold of the bit. After that the rider is expected to remain still and maintain a
consistent hold. If the horse is tough it can be quite fatiguing to the rider.
Racehorses generally do not expect to race train unless they see a racetrack. Consequently, when you get on your ottb at your farm, he probably doesn’t know what to
expect, but he most likely is not thinking of galloping. It’s important to remember we
do jog and walk the horses on the track. In addition, we walk around the backstretch
and in the barns. Racehorses are very controllable and are used to working in all three
gaits. They shouldn’t be receiving anything near the quantity of grain they got at the
track. In addition they will never be as fit. All this reduces the chance the horse will
ever feel like running off.
If your horse is strong, a harsher bit is not the answer. Making the horse more uncomfortable with the bit could get you run off with. Bits do not hold horses, good riding does. The more a rider worries about being run off with the more likely it is to
happen.
If you do find yourself being run off with, remain calm, do not panic. Tell people in a
loud voice that you are out of control so they can get out of the way. Do not fight the
horse. Do not aim the horse at anything solid to stop him, this is dangerous and could
injure both rider and horse. Keep your hands down.
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Remember the horse will get tired and stop on his own. Also remember they rarely
run into anything on their own. Schooling the horse in an enclosed area prevents the
option. It’s almost
impossible to run off in an arena or small field.
The racehorse expects the rider's hands to be down on the withers most of the time.
The lower you have your hands, the more likely the horse will be tempted to take hold
of the bit. The horse actually thinks you are asking him to take hold. If you find your
horse is heavy on the bit, try lifting your hands and carrying them higher. Do not pull
back, just lift them.
The Pony
At the track the pony is a horse who leads or chaperones
the racehorse. They also catch loose horses, as seen in the
picture to the right where Outrider Lisa Mcklveen and her
trusted pony Otis are shown catching a loose horse. Racehorses trust the pony and rely on their judgment.
In the afternoon you can see the horses come out of the
paddock with the riders up. A groom is usually leading
them and hands them to a rider who is waiting on the
track. This is the pony girl or boy. Ponies are also used in
the morning by some trainers and the outrider also has
one. Almost every racehorse knows how to pony and finds
comfort and confidence when they are beside the pony.
You can use this to your advantage when re-schooling an ottb. If you walk with
another horse, keeping your ottb’s head at the other horse’s shoulder, this is the
“ponying” spot. Most ottb’s will relax and find confidence when strolling along. It
helps if the company you’ve chosen is a calm and relaxed type, but he doesn’t have to
know how to pony a racehorse.
The rider on the other horse can drop his hand down as if he’s holding a lead strap
and the sight of that hand will make the ottb feel even more secure. I call it the
comforting hand with respect to the horses I break, because they are all broken to
ponies. Racehorses that are schooled properly will run to the pony when they get
loose. Of course this is usually after they have had their fun. They know the pony is a
place of security.
First Ride
Safety is paramount on your first ride with your new horse. Always wear gloves,
safety vest and helmet when you ride. Have two people, the rider and a ground
person. Longe, and then put him in the stall. Belly the horse and have the other
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person walk you around the stall. If there is no bad reaction then get off. Then get a
leg up on the horse. Lower yourself gently on to the horse's back. This is a way to get
a line on the horse before actually getting on. It’s also the way most horses are introduced to the rider when being broken.
Racehorses are used to training on a flat, manicured surface. If you plan to start
riding him on regular ground or cross country, remember this. Even if the surface a
flat, grass covered area, there will be variances in the surface of the ground. The
horse is not used to this and should be introduced to training on it carefully. Walking
warm ups on cross country rides or in the ring are all that is needed in most cases.
When you step into a riding ring or indoor, most racehorses do not expect to gallop.
They expect to gallop when they see a racetrack. Most ex-racers are reluctant to canter when asked to in such a small area. Many have anxiety when they realize what
you are asking. It’s worth noting here that racehorses do have a slow gallop, which is
the speed of a canter; it’s just on the forehand, which in race training is correct.
I have found lessons at the walk are successful. Teaching the horse to turn is beneficial and one of the first things I want the horse to learn. Racehorses are accustomed
to training with lots of other horses around them. Most have more trouble training by
themselves, than when other horses are present.
Since they have been ridden by professional riders who are at ease most of the time,
racehorses are more sensitive to an uptight, tense rider. They may never have had
someone tense on them before. Exercise riders and jockeys train themselves to relax
and be supple at the most exciting and adrenaline producing times. Consequently,
many horses that transition off the track will become nervous if their rider fails to relax.
What I’m saying is don’t get on them until you are certain you will be able to introduce
yourself as a relaxed rider. Wait until you are comfortable. People ask me many
times about the fact that I get on them almost immediately upon arrival at the farm.
We do not tranqualize or overexercise them before we get on them. We rarely have a
problem, but we are relaxed. Although the horse may not have any idea what he is
supposed to do, he knows by my body that things are okay. It’s just another day
in the life of that horse, not an earth shattering breakthrough. Always remember,
horses learn what you teach them.
It’s very helpful if you have an old or very
quiet horse to go on hacks with. This is
where using a pony comes in. A racehorse
likes to keep his head at the pony’s
shoulder. This is a position for the uncertain horse. Hacking teaches the horse to
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relax and enjoy his ride. Do not forget the fly spray. Racehorses generally hate to be
uncomfortable and they expect the humans in their lives to remedy any source of
discomfort like they always have. Up hill trot work gets him off the forehand and
strengthens his rear. While riding cross country, begin teaching the horse to steer
with the legs and seat. After a few weeks hacking, start schooling in the ring.
Some horses naturally want to lead and others follow. If your horse seems strong
and trying to get in front of the other horses, he’s likely not trying to run off. He may
relax if you allow him to lead. Clues can be found in the racing form as to his running
style which is his natural tendency.
Introducing Jumping
There are trainers who take horses directly
from the track and begin jump training
immediately. There was a rider in a
Jimmy Wofford gymnastics clinic a few
years ago who had gotten a horse from
the track only the week before. He was a
steeplechase trainer/rider and planned to
run the horse in steeplechase races. This
works well because simply put—
steeplechase and hurdle horses are racehorses that race over fences.
If you want to event, do jumpers, hunt or
just recreational jump, that approach is
probably going to give you less than desirable results. You must first teach your new
horse to be a riding horse and when he understands that, introduce jumping. Some
horses come off the track that never really were racehorses. It can be because of
inadequate training but most of the time they just never embraced racing. You still
must give them the basics, they just pick it up faster than then the committed racehorse. Either way, they are ready to jump when they understand the basics.
Each horse is ready to learn to jump at a different point in his training. Many times I
introduce walking and then trotting over poles very soon after they come to the farm.
If the poles elicit any excitement for the horse, I know that we’ll be walking over them
for a while before I show him a jump.
I wait until the horse is relaxed and forward from the leg aids before I start jump
training. When you first ask a horse to jump he only knows you are pointing him at a
solid object with two ways around it and then asking him to take the hardest possible
route. Many people just casually pop them over logs and natural obstacles while trail
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riding. Preferably with another horse leading the way. I often wonder if horses take
to this so much easier because most of the time the riders are more relaxed too. This
is the best way I know to introduce the concept of jumping to the horse.
The formal introduction to jumping in the ring should be kept low key and relaxed.
Attempt this only when the horse is relaxed and free of anxiety. It’s sure to over
excite him if there’s a lot of activity going on. One clue that the horse is not ready is if
he becomes excited when you start to jump him. If this happens you need to back
track. Also be careful that you aren’t making a “big deal” out of it. If you are tense or
excited, he will sense that and mirror it. Calm, easy going introductions work best.
I use a standard jump with two rails and standards. I do not use ground poles at this
stage because I have found that many horses are intimidated by so much on the
ground. I always have a helper to build and break down the jump. First we put one
rail on the ground between two standards. I walk the horse back and forth over it, on
a straight line. I use my legs to keep him on the line, never my reins. When he is doing it willingly I then trot back and forth, still focusing on a straight line. At this
point I have the helper put one end of the pole in the jump cup that is set at one foot,
making half a cross rail. I trot back and forth being sure to keep my line straight.
When he’s comfortable with that, the helper puts the other rail up completing the
cross rails. A few more passes without hesitation and I end the session. I like to keep
the introduction to jumping short and low key. I do not want the horse to think it’s a
big deal. If the horse becomes excited or frightened I back up to the step where he is
comfortable and calm.
Once we start the jumping process, I usually do it twice per week. I start out this
same way for a minimum of two weeks. I have found it goes easier if I start out by
building up the jump rather than starting out with the cross rail. I do gradually work
the height up to about 2’ at center, but this is determined by the horse, not myself. I
stay at this height as we progress to multiple jumps and finally lines of jumps.
Going to a new place
Racehorses are usually good shippers, but some have only ridden in a van so be patient when you introduce them to a horse trailer for the first time. When you first start
taking your horse places remember the last time he traveled it was probably to a
race. It’s a great idea to “school” the horse before actually going to a show or
activity. Ship him to a show you are not entered in. Go to a park where he can be
ridden with his pony or calm companion. This is a very relaxing and productive way to
introduce him to this new purpose for traveling.
If you are entered in a clinic or other planned activity, arrive early and give the horse a
chance to settle down. Longeing may help if you’ve trained him to do it ahead of
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time. Racing around on the longe line without direction from you will probably ramp
him up and excite him. Always remember how taxing longeing is physically and mentally for the horse and don’t use it to tire him and then expect to ride in a clinic for two
hours. Some horse do well with a quiet hack around.
Thank you for reading my manual. I will add to this as I continue to learn
from every horse I work with. In addition, you will help me with your
questions, concerns and experiences with your horses.
Please donate to Thoroughbred Placement and Rescue, Inc. whenever
possible. Without support, we cannot continue to help off track Thoroughbreds and the people who love them.
Your donation is tax deductible. You can mail checks to:
Thoroughbred Placement and Rescue, Inc.
13130 Molly Berry Road
Upper Marlboro, MD 20772
or go to: www.GoodHorse.org
We have a PayPal account you can use to donate also.
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Racing Terminology
Terminology
Added money - This is purse money, added by the racetrack to upgrade the purse. It
is added to the nomination, entry and starting fees for a stake race.
Allowance race - For higher quality horses. Entry is made according to conditions,
usually the number of races won or money earned by the horse. The horses are assigned weights based on recent performance.
Black type - A horse is assigned black type if it has won (or been placed) in certain
Stakes races.
Blood stock agent - Generally a commissioned agent who represents either the seller,
occasionally both, in the sale of Thoroughbreds.
Bounce - A poor performance by a horse in a race after a strong effort in a previous
race. Normally due to the great effort in the previous race.
Breeze - A timed work out by a horse at a specified distance. It can actually be at racing speed, but usually is slower. It's the fastest speed horse go while trained in the
morning.
Broodmare - A female horse who is pregnant or used for breeding.
Claiming race - A race in which a horse is offered for a price. Another owner can place
money in an account and then owns the horse when the starting gate opens.
Class - The quality of a horse or the level of difficulty of a race.
Closer - A horse whose running style is to relax the first part of the race and then
come running at the end.
Colt - A male horse under five years old.
Conformation - The structure of the horse's body. Certain Conformation is conducive
to racing success.
Consigner - A horse owner or agent of the owner, who arranges with a sales company
to sell a horse at public auction.
Dam - The mother of a horse.
Double - If the win an place horses, in the exact order are selected, of two consecutive
races.
Exacta - If the bettor picks the win and place horses in the exact order.
Exercise rider - A person who gallops racehorses in the morning. This person doesn't
normally ride in races. Usually they are an employee of the trainer, or freelance.
Exotic - A bet other than win, place or show.
Farrier - A person who takes care of horse's feet. Trimming, correction, or putting on
shoes.
Fast - Part of a rating system for racing surfaces. In this case, a dirt track that is dry
and firm.
Filly - A female horse under five years old.
Firm - Part of a rating system for racing surfaces. In this case, a turf course that is dry
and relatively hard.
Foal - A horse, male or female, one year of age or younger.
Fractions - The internal time splits of a race. Usually measured at intervals of a furlong, (1/8 of a mile).
Furlong - One eighth of a mile.
Game - A horse who gives all he has to win a race.
Gelding - A castrated male horse.
Good - Part of a rating system for racing surfaces. A dirt or turf track that has had
some rain, but is still even and firm to race on.
Groom - The caretaker of the racehorse. Employed by the trainer, he/she preps the
horse in the morning for the exercise rider, administers therapy and handles the horse
in general.
Green Broke - Refers to the first thirty to sixty days in the breaking process of a racehorse. The horse accepts the saddle and bridle and is reasonable when ridden at the
walk, trot and canter.
Handle - The total amount bet at a track on a given day or time period.
Horse - A male horse, not castrated, five years or older.
Hotwalker - A person whose job it is to walk the horse after or in lieu of exercise. This
person is employed by the trainer.
Identifier - When the racehorse enters the paddock he must stop and have his tattoo
checked by the horse identifier. In addition the identifier checks the markings and
cowlick on the jockey club papers. This is done to verify that the correct horse will run
in the race.
In foal - A female horse (broodmare), who is pregnant.
Jockey - Rides the horse in the race and tries to win.
Length - a measurement used in describing a race. The distance estimated to be the
length of a horse's body. One length is considered to be run in one-fifth of a second.
Maiden - A horse who has never won a race.
Mare - A female horse five years or older.
Muddy - Part of a rating system for racing surfaces. A dirt track when it has been
saturated with rain, making the footing unreliable.
One turn - A race around one turn of the track.
Optional claimer - A horse may be entered under allowance conditions stated, or for a
designated claiming price.
Outrider - An official employed by the racetrack who controls the flow of the post parade in the afternoons atop a pony. They troubleshoot when problems arise, such as
a loose or scratched horse. In addition, in the mornings, they are the "police" of the
track. Enforcing rules as well as troubleshooting.
Overnight - A list of races to be run the next racing day. Includes the date the horses
will run, list of horses, race number and time, trainer and jockey. The racing secretary
usually includes several extra races that trainers can enter in the next entry day.
Place - The second finisher in the race.
Pick 3 - The bettor picks the winners of three consecutive races.
Pony - A pony is not a "pony" in the regular sense of the word. A horse that leads the
racehorse to the starting gate on race day. Or a horse that is ridden by the outrider
and engages in catching loose horses or other troubleshooting.
Pool -Total amount bet on a given wager of a given race.
PPE - Pre purchase exam. This exam is performed by a vet per the potential owner's
instructions.
Purse - Entrants of a race run for a certain percentage of money offered by the racetrack. This is determined by the finishing position in the race. Usually 60% to first,
20% to second, 11% to third, 6% to fourth and 3% to fifth. Some tracks pay a set
amount to the other finishers in the race, $50 or so.
Quinella - The bettor picks the win and place horses, in either order.
Racing Form - Contains racing news, but it’s main purpose is to supply all of the previous races of each horse in each race. It is used by the betting public as well as trainers
and owners in handicapping the race.
Racing Secretary - The main function of the Racing Secretary is to "write" races based
on the types of horses residing at the track.
Route - A mile or longer race.
Select Sale - Horses with chosen to participate in the sale based on superior confirmation and breeding. Open sales accept any entrant.
Show - Third place in a race.
Sire - The father of the horse.
"Sit Chilly" - Describes the way a rider sits when a horse has anxiety or is about to do
something. While his body is relaxed and giving to the horse, his legs are around the
horse as the rider prepares to go with the horse. Many times just sitting chilly avoids
the potential problem.
Sloppy - Part of the rating system for racing surfaces. A dirt track that is wet enough
that the surface is soft and uneven.
Soft - Part of the rating system for racing surfaces. A turf track that is saturated with
water.
Sprint - A race less than a mile in distance.
Special weight - Weight assigned by the racing secretary for horses who have not
raced enough to establish a racing record.
Stake race - The highest level of racing. Horses must pay a nomination, entry and
starting fee.
Stallion - A male horse who is actively used for breeding.
Stallion prospect - An uncastrated male horse who is being considered for the purpose
of breeding.
Star Gazer - A horse who, when being ridden has an extremely high head carriage. As
though he's "looking at the stars."
Starter allowance - An allowance race which a horse is eligible, only if he has run in a
claiming race below a designated claiming price.
Soundness - Refers to the health of the horse. A horse that is healthy is said to be
sound.
Speed figure - A number that analyzes how fast a hose ran a race. Based on factors
such as, track condition, trip, length beaten, and other variables that affected the
horse’s performance.
Speed horse - A horse who likes to run in the front of the race from beginning to end.
Stalker - A horse who sits behind the speed horses in a race and then tries to win at
the end of the race.
Takeout - The percentage the track gets from each bet.
Trifecta - The bettor picks the win, place, and show horses in the correct order.
Trip - Description of a particular horse’s experience in a race.
Two turns - A race run around both turns of the racetrack. Usually a distance race.
Variant - The difference form the average time for races of the same distance by the
same class of horses at the same track on different days.
Weanling - A baby horse who is not nursing his mother any longer.
Yearling - A young horse after January 1st following its birth to the next January 1st.
Yielding - Part of the rating system for racing surfaces. A turf track when it has
absorbed enough water that it is soft and uneven.