docC Topo Tamina v1.4.cdr
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C Topo Tamina v1.4.cdr
© July 2009 by Crisa, Duracell and Nicolas Tamina - Climbing Topo Guide v1.4 Tamina - Predeal Climbing Topo Guide v 1.4 Picture: Amalia Mindru trying “Like a virgin” 7c+, credit : Nicolas Ecoffet Contributions: C. Ghelner, T. Gontea, C. Manof, I. Manzatu, A. Paun, R. Visinescu, B. Andora, B. Dudau, A. Costin, O. Pop Materials: 80% FRAE, 10% Proclimbing and 10% Personal © July 2009 by Crisa, Duracell and Nicolas Tamina - Climbing Topo Guide v1.4 Notations Symbols ! Long distance between protections / Distante lungi intre asigurari # Isn't worth the effort / Nu merita efortul * Very interesting route / Traseu interesant p g c o s Sunny crag / Faleza insorita Top Belay in a multi pitch route / Regrupare Shady crag / Faleza umbroasa Projec / Proiect Rain protected crag / Faleza protejata impotriva ploii Route with glued holds / Traseu cu prize lipite Route with chipped or drilled holds / Traseu cu prize cioplite Almost the whole route is overhanging / Traseu surplombant Overhanging routes crag / Faleza cu trasee in surplomba Vertical routes crag / Faleza cu trasee verticale Grass or small bush / Iarba sau boschet Tree (forest) / Copac (padure) Anchor / Ancora (spit) Piton Almost the whole route is a slab / Traseu fata cazuta Slabe routes crag / Faleza cu trasee de placa Grading Scales UIAA French USA Australia 55 5+ 66 6+ 6+/777 7+ 7+/888 8+ 8+/999 9+ 9+/101010 10+ 10+/1111- 4a 4b 4c 5a 5b 5c 6a 6a+ 6b 6b+ 6c 6c+ 7a 7a+ 7b 7b+ 7c 7c+ 8a 8a+ 8b 8b+ 8c 8c+ 9a 5.5 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10a 5.10b 5.10c 5.10d 5.11a 5.11b 5.11c 5.11d 5.12a 5.12b 5.12c 5.12d 5.13a 5.13b 5.13c 5.13d 5.14a 5.14b 5.14c 5.14d 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 Tamina NOTE: This document is for information only and it was developed as a part of Romania Climbing Topo Project. The author takes no responsibility for possible accidents caused by using the information contained in this document. There may be inaccuracies in some descriptions. Please forward any comments or suggestions regarding this document to [email protected] 02/10 © July 2009 by Crisa, Duracell and Nicolas Tamina - Climbing Topo Guide v1.4 The Crag - access from the road 1 - “Cascada” sector: max 5 min 2 - “Faleza mare” sector: 10min 3 - “Neghinistyle” sector: 15min 4 - Secret spot 5 - “Cabana” sector: Besides the chalet, 15 min from the waterfall Access Brasov dn E60 Sacele Romsilva chalet 5 3 4 2 Tamina waterfall Dambu Morii Timisu de jos 1 River dn E60 TAMINA 4 km Timisu de sus Predeal ACCESS : The access to the crag is made by a dirt road. Unfortunatly this road is closed by a barrier. It is a 40 minutes walk to the crag. You can either stay on the road or follow the path going along the road . Parau Rece Barrier Azuga orii bu M m a D Timisu de sus NOTE: This document is for information only and it was developed as a part of Romania Climbing Topo Project. The author takes no responsibility for possible accidents caused by using the information contained in this document. There may be inaccuracies in some descriptions. Please forward any comments or suggestions regarding this document to [email protected] 03/10 © July 2009 by Crisa, Duracell and Nicolas Tamina - Climbing Topo Guide v1.4 Cascada sector 3 4 1 La messe 2 Prolog 3 Like a virgin 4 Ma fleur 5 Feed my imagination 6 Dancer in the dark 7 Fight Club 8 Michelangello 9 Sunday walk 10 Hot Shots 11 Veverita Polara 12 Fat boy slim 13 Dirty dancing 14 Capriora caprioasa 15 Le casse couille 16 Fata din vis 8a+ 8b+? 8a 8b+? 8c ? 8b+ 8b 7c 7b+ 7c+ 7b 5c 6a 5c 5c 7c 8m 8m 10m 13m 14m 16m 16m 18m 15m 15m 16m 11m 10m 10m 11m 30m 5 P 6 7 8 P P 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 From the Tamina Info panel take the right path, down to the waterfall. In 1 minute you should reach “Cascada” sector. For routes no 1 and 2 looking at the “Michelangello” route, turn around 180 degrees and go down, 20 meters. La messe follows the crack on the left of the boulder. Prolog starts a bit on the right and matches La messe at the 4th bolt. Variant 1 2 The variante ¨La promesse¨ starts in Prolog and go left at the second bolt to meet ¨La messe¨. It is proposed 8a+. 04/10 © July 2009 by Crisa, Duracell and Nicolas Tamina - Climbing Topo Guide v1.4 Faleza mare sector - left part 09 13 08 13 next route 10m 04 16 05 02 01 03 13 07 12 10 11 1 06 08 09 From “Cascada” sector - go down, cross the river in front of the Tamina waterfall, go right then up through forest following the path until you reach the grey boulder you can see in the picture. You should see the wall all the way. 10 minutes from “Cascada” sector. 14 15 01 Bavaria 02 Floare de colt 03 Galeti 04 Onedin 05 Martin Stricklant 06 L’amour a distance Opriti masina 07 Fisura dreapta 08 Rictus 09 Le projet diabolique 10 Nexit 11 More than a donut 12 Charon 13 Charognare Optaplus, pina sus 14 Mica Sirena 15 Silence is easy 16 Comptine d’un autre été 7a+ 7c 7b 7b 7b+ 6b 8b ? 6b+ 7b+ 8b ? 7c 8a 6c+ 7b 8a+? 7b+ 6b+ 5a 30m 30m 30m 30m 35m 15m 36m P 30m 30m 50m P 30m 40m 30m 30m 42m P 22m 28m 10m 05/10 © July 2009 by Crisa, Duracell and Nicolas Tamina - Climbing Topo Guide v1.4 Faleza mare sector - middle part 06 04 02 03 04 01 03 19 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 10 08 09 11 14 15 12 13 01 L’amour total 02 Satanasie computerizata 03 Acum cand ? Imediat ! 04 Burning legion first part Burning legion integral 05 Mon ami 06 Use your illusions first part Use your illusions integral 07 C’est quand le bonheur? 08 Vulgar display of power 09 Disco 7b 8a 7a+ 7c+ ? 7c+ 8a 8a 8b ? 8c ? 8b+? 8b+? 8c+? 16 17 15m 30m 15m 30m 15m 32m 11m 17m 32m 18m 18m 21m 20 21 18 P P P P P P 11 Martyria 12 Stalingrad 13 Hot fingers 14 Cold fingers 15 Jumi juma 16 Pocket symphony 17 Poison 18 More than a feeling 19 Easy go 20 Gossip 21 Ratatouille 7b+ 7c+ 8a+ 7c+ 7b 6c+ 7a+ 6b 5c 5b 6b 28m 28m 22m 20m 20m 14m 20m 20m 12m 12m 12m From “Faleza Mare” left part walk along the wall until you see the big caves showed in the picture above. 06/10 © July 2009 by Crisa, Duracell and Nicolas Tamina - Climbing Topo Guide v1.4 Faleza mare sector - right part cave 06 02 01 03 04 05 Negh inist yle s ec t o r 10m From “Faleza Mare” central part walk along the wall until you almost 01 Racnet fioros reach the end of the crag, a big fragmentation of rocks, only 20 m before 02 El comandante 03 Trompetica Neghinistyle sector. 04 For my night 05 KA-X 06 Jean vs the doppler effect 7a+ ? 6c 6a 6b 6c 7a 30m 20m 20m 22m 23m 23m P 07/10 © July 2009 by Crisa, Duracell and Nicolas Tamina - Climbing Topo Guide v1.4 Neghinistyle sector 04 05 0 03 02 01 “Neghinistyle” sector is located at the end of “Faleza mare” sector and is overhanging.It stays dry during rain but got wet by infiltration after heavy rain. 01 Phill Collins 02 Neghinistyle 03 Expresso 04 Johny Bravo 05 XXL 7c+ 8b ? 7c 7c 8b ? 6m 6m 5m 5m 5m P P 08/10 © July 2009 by Crisa, Duracell and Nicolas Tamina - Climbing Topo Guide v1.4 List of routes that have been climbed 01 Comptine d’un autre été 02 Gossip 03 Capriora caprioasa 04 Easy go 05 Fat boy slim 06 Le casse couille 07 Dirty dancing 08 Trompetica 09 For my night 10 L’amour a distance 11 More than a feeling 12 Ratatouille 13 Fisura dreapta 14 Silence is easy 15 El comandante 16 KA-X 17 Charon 18 Pocket symphony 19 Jean vs the doppler effect 20 Acum cand ? 21 Bavaria 22 Poison 23 Charognare 24 Galeti 25 Jumi juma 26 L’amour total 27 Veverita Polara 28 Onedin 5a 5b 5c 5c 5c 5c 6a 6a 6b 6b 6b 6b 6b+ 6b+ 6c 6c 6c+ 6c+ 7a 7a+ 7a+ 7a+ 7b 7b 7b 7b 7b 7b 10m 12m 10m 12m 11m 11m 10m 20m 22m 15m 20m 12m 30m 28m 20m 23m 30m 14m 23m 15m 30m 20m 30m 30m 20m 15m 16m 30m 29 Martin Stricklant 30 Martyria 31 Mica Sirena 32 Rictus 33 Sunday walk 34 Cowboys from hell 35 Expresso 36 Fata din vis 37 Floare de colt 38 Johny Bravo 39 Mica Sirena direct 40 Michelangello 41 Nexit 42 Burning legion first part 43 Cold fingers 44 Hot Shots 45 Phill Collins 46 Stalingrad 47 Burning legion integral 48 Like a virgin 49 Mon ami 50 More than a donut 51 Satanasie computerizata 52 La messe 53 Hot fingers 54 La promesse 55 Fight club 56 Dancer in the dark 7b+ 7b+ 7b+ 7b+ 7b+ 7c 7c 7c 7c 7c 7c 7c 7c 7c+ 7c+ 7c+ 7c+ 7c+ 8a 8a 8a 8a 8a 8a+ 8a+ 8a+ 8b 8b+ 35m 28m 22m 30m 15m 28m 5m 30m 30m 5m 22m 18m 30m 15m 20m 15m 6m 28m 32m 10m 11m 40m 30m 8m 22m Nicolas ECOFFET 8m 16m 16m Mircea Struteanu Silviu Corciovei trying “Hot shots” 7c+ 09/10 Tamina - Climbing Topo Guide v1.4 © July 2009 by Crisa, Duracell and Nicolas Miscellaneous Precautions : The routes being new and the rock being loose in some parts, it is quite common to see stones falling from the top or from the routes. An accident already took place there and we advice you to wear an helmet while belaying and to stay far from the crag when you are not climbing. Chipped holds : In Tamina you may find a few consolidated holds due to the rock being sometimes loose but none of the routes has been chipped. You are welcome to bolt new routes but no chipped holds will be admitted on the site. Biscuits : All the routes have been graded if climbed in proper style meaning : Without pre-clipping. The route “mon ami” is proposed 7c+ if pre-clipped “Burling legion first part” 7c and ¨Hot fingers¨8a , for the others we let you assess the difficulty if you want to climb them pre-clipped. Without cheat stones : the only routes not starting from the ground are “Burning legion” and “Mon ami” where you start from a boulder. Short people usually uses a cheat stone to reach the crimp of “Burning legion” with left hand. Projects : Many projects are bolted in Tamina. There are open projects, however if you climb one of them please let us know in order to update the topo. Variants : The route “Mica sirena” is graded 7b+ if going right to get the blunt arete. It has also been climbed straight and it is given 7c. A link beetween “Prolog” and “La messe” has been climbed. From the second bolt of “Prolog” you traverse left to the big hold of “La messe” and then finish climbing in “La messe”. That variant is called “La promesse” and is graded 8a+. Nicolas Ecoffet Amalia Mindru trying “Like a virgin” 7c+ 10/10
