Art and Culture of The Netherlands/Belgium

University of Dubuque — International Studies Program
Art and Culture of The Netherlands/Belgium
9 Days in Western Europe: The Netherlands and Belgium.
“The construction of Europe is an art. It is the art of the possible." – French Prime Minister Jacques Chirac
November 19 (Friday) – November 27 (Saturday) 2010
Group Leaders: Professors Phyllis Garfield, Alan Garfield and Kim Hilby.
Remember, The Netherlands/Belgium are 7 hours ahead of Iowa. 4pm in Iowa is 11pm in Amsterdam.
>> How your folks would call Alan Garfield anytime. From the US: 011. 31. 6. 2204. 7247. <<
>> How you would call US from The Netherlands/Belgium: 00. 1. 563. 123. 4567. <<
Day 1, November 19, Friday – Depart Dubuque at 10am. Dubuque-Chicago-Amsterdam.
We meet in Hadley Auditorium, University of Dubuque, at 9:30am for last minute handouts, questions, etc before
boarding our coach for Chicago. We’ll leave precisely at 10am, with a lunch stop at McDonalds/Subway/Culver’s in
Winnebago Corner’s to savor American fast food for the last time. (Truth be told, there’s a McD’s in the international
section of the airport and you’ll see McD’s all over Amsterdam.
Oh well, globalization.) Bring your one, small, carry-on (I’m
always hopeful), money, and passport. I have everything else.
We’ll arrive at O’Hare’s International Terminal (#5) at about
1:30pm. We’ll check in, usually 2-by-2, at the KLM/Delta corner
desk for our overnight flight via The Netherlands’ national
airline
(and the
largest
airline in
the
world).
DL 9383 - Chicago to Amsterdam.
Depart 4:35pm. Arrive Amsterdam 20 Nov at 7:05am.
Meals (dinner/breakfast) are served during the flight. Movies
provide entertainment. No charge for food or libations. Every
flight is no smoking. After your dinner, I suggest trying to get
some sleep. This is your night.
“Our future begins on January 1 1999. The euro is Europe’s key to the 21st century. The era of solo national fiscal and
economic policy is over.” German Chancellor Gerhard Schröder, December 31, 1998.
Day 2, November 20, Saturday – Arrive Amsterdam –Walking Tour/Rembrandt House/Dutch Resistance
Museum.
Good morning. Actually your body thinks it's midnight. So, I hope you
enjoyed your sleep, because today we’re all about using daytime hours.
You'll wake up, though, as we walk through customs and passport control.
Here is where you get your passport stamped. Since the formation of the
EU, travel is unrestricted within member states, at least in theory. It still is
restricted to the point that each EU country protects itself from illegal
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immigration with different rules
(sound familiar?).
You won’t have to show your passport
again, though, until we get our return
tickets home. Guard your passport,
though. During the flight, we get a
Landing Card which you have to fill
out. “Family Name” is last name.
“Christian Name” is not about religion
– it’s your first name. You are staying at the Euphemia Hotel and we will be leaving The Netherlands on November 27.
The airport is the best place to change money from US Dollars (cash or traveler's checks) to euros (abbreviated with €).
The sad news is that the value of the USD has dropped considerably. Changing will not be pretty. The rate is very low –
about $1.50 for a Euro. Freshen up at the free toilets here.
After we gather our bags, follow me as we exit through the GREEN customs area as a group. Now you’re in Amsterdam. I’ll
park you in an area as I get our train tickets into the city. Great time to start your photos. We leave typically from Track
(Spoor in Dutch) 1, 2 or 3. It’ll take about 20 minutes to go
north to Amsterdam Central (the train station). Once again,
I’ll park you in one area (watch your stuff – thieves work
here). I will return with your Amsterdam Tour Books and the
all important “I Amsterdam” card. I’ll explain how this works
in detail, but essentially – it’ll be good for 48 hours after we
initialize it. Also, there are loads of specials and discounts
available. Use this book to sort through what you’re going to
do during your free times. Planning is good here, folks.
Now, depending on the weather, we will walk to our hotel or take a tram. It’s
a bit of a walk, but quite doable – especially since this will get you out to deal
with jetlag. Mind you, it is a Saturday so…we won’t be the only ones out and
about. Just make sure you can see me. Here is our hotel:
EUPHEMIA HOTEL
FokkeSimonszstraat 1-9
1017 TD Amsterdam
Phone: 011.31.20.622.9045
FAX: 011.31.20. 638.9673
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There are not working phones in the rooms, so if your
folks have an emergency and need to contact you, it is
best that you use my Dutch phone number: 011. 31. 6.
2204. 7247. I will know which room you are in. A bit about
this “budget” hotel. The Euphemia Hotel is a basic and
simple 1 star hotel with 4 floors (steep stairs and no lifts).
Most of the rooms have private facilities (I’ve requested
those). In any case, there are additional facilities (showers
and toilets) on each floor (usually at the end by the stairs).
The hotel (sometimes called a hostel) was formerly a
monastery built around 1900. I chose this hotel because it’s
close to all the main attractions (especially museums and
restaurants) within the city center. Also, it is cheap. Because
it’s on a quiet side street, we can escape the hustle of the city.
Because it’ll still be early am when we arrive, our rooms will
not be ready. So, I will get a room to store all our bags and
then…off we go. By the way, please travel with your passport
on your body at all times (not your purse, which can
disappear, put it in your pocket – front if possible or under a sweater in your shirt). Now…time for a walking tour of
Amsterdam.
First stop will be the Rembrandt Huis (House – you’ll catch on soon enough). About a 20 minute walk. We’ll explore the
house on our own, since it wasn’t designed to handle 36 folks. Mind those Dutch stairs.
But first,
a bit of
history
of the
house…
The house where Rembrandt lived between 1639 and 1658 is a museum. The building was constructed in 1606 and 1607 in
what was then known as the Sint Anthonisbreestraat. The street did not come to be called the Jodenbreestraat until later.
The house was built on two lots in the eastern part of the city. Many rich merchants and artists settled in this new part of
town. The house can clearly be seen on a bird’s eye view map dating from 1625. It is a substantial two-storey dwelling
house with a stepped gable. In about 1627-28 the house was drastically remodelled. It was given a new façade, a triangular
corniced pediment—the height of modernity at the time—and another storey was added. The reconstruction was probably
overseen by Jacob van Campen, who was later to make his name as the architect of Amsterdam Town Hall (now the Palace
in Dam Square).
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In 1639 Rembrandt signed a contract governing the payment for the purchase of the house
in the Breestraat. The purchase price was thirteen thousand guilders, a huge sum, which he
could not come up with in its entirety. He
was, however, allowed to pay it off in
installments. At this time Rembrandt had
already established his reputation as an
artist. In the same year he bought the
house, he was awarded the prestigious
commission to paint the Night Watch.
Although he was earning a lot of money,
Rembrandt was unable—or unwilling—to
pay off the mortgage. This was eventually
to bring about his financial downfall.
Between 1652 and 1656 Rembrandt made
frantic attempts to get his hands on money to pay off his debt. He did not succeed and was
forced into bankruptcy. In 1656 Rembrandt’s property was inventoried for the benefit of his
creditors, and his household effects and collection of art and curiosities were sold. The house was auctioned in 1658 and
fetched something over eleven thousand guilders. Rembrandt moved to a small rented house on the Rozengracht, where
he lived until his death in 1669.
In the museum’s early years the collection of etchings grew steadily as a result of gifts and purchases. There were
temporary exhibitions at regular intervals, but few changes were made to the interior of the house. But then, in the
nineteen-nineties, there were some major developments. The trustees succeeded in acquiring the adjacent premises,
enabling them to build an extension to the museum. The new wing, which was opened on 7 May 1998, houses two
exhibition galleries, the secretarial department, offices and the library, with the Rembrandt Information Centre. Once the
new wing was completed, it was possible to resurrect the old plan to restore Rembrandt’s former home to its original
condition. The reconstruction did not progress without a hitch. Champions and opponents of the plan conducted a
fundamental debate about the ethics of the restoration of
historic buildings. Once the board of the Rembrandt House was
given the go-ahead, the work proceeded very carefully. In order
to tackle the restoration plans as meticulously as possible, a
restoration team was put together. The restoration was
completed in 1999.
After our
time at the
Rembrandt
House, we’ll
stop for a
quick lunch
at the corner
Rembrandt
Huis Pub. On offer: sandwiches for 4.50/soups for 4. We’ll have a quick
bite and off we’ll go to the Dutch Resistance Museum.
If it’s great weather out, we might stop at the world famous Amsterdam Botanical Gardens. But if it’s raining, well, on we
go. In any case, here are some pics of these Gardens. Incidentally, they are famous because (among other things) they are
the sources for many medicines we use today. Pharmaceuticals come from plants, essentially. And the Dutch trade routes
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from the 1600s provided loads of unique plants. The Hortus Botanicus Amsterdam is one of the oldest botanic gardens in
the world. Today, there are more than 4,000 plant species growing in the garden and greenhouses.. Behind the 300 yearold gates, the bustle of the city seems to disappear. This is an ever- changing garden with greenhouses with butterflies
and cacti and an impressive greenhouse.
Whether we stop or not, the next stop will be the Dutch Resistance Museum. Oh yes, incidentally, right about now, that
feeling you have is called jetlag. That’s why you feel the way you do at the moment. Now onto the Resistance Museum.
The Dutch Resistance Museum (in Dutch Verzetsmuseum),
chosen as the best historical museum of the Netherlands, tells
the story of the Dutch people in Word War II. How did Dutch
people respond to the Nazi occupation? Who resisted? Why,
and how? You’ll see, read and hear (it's a multimedia
exhibition) fascinating stories about the exceptional, as well as
about everyday life.
From 14 May 1940 to 5 May 1945, the Netherlands were
occupied by Nazi Germany. Almost every Dutch person was
affected by the consequences of the occupation. As time went
on, the choices and dilemmas facing the population became
more far-reaching.
The exhibition tells a chronological story from approximately
1930 to 1950, in which information is offered in various ‘layers’.
We'll all go thru this exhibit individually, at whatever pace you
decide. You'll get a view of the rather isolated Dutch society in
the thirties, experience the shock of the unexpected German
invasion, and then discover that both the oppression and
resistance to it gradually intensify in the occupation years as
the war progresses, finally to realize that experiences of this
period are still playing a role in today’s society.
While the documents are, obviously, in Dutch there are many
parts which are in English. As I remember, the context in which
the resistance took place is explored. For many of you, this will
be your first WWII museum experience.
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Now you are probably dragging a bit. Time to go back to our hotel/hostel, check-in, and freshen up for dinner. We are
eating our first group meal tonight at a local called Myrabelle. At 5pm, I
will take half the group to have dinner. This is paid for already (except
the drinks which you have to pay for). I have ordered spareribs with a
side salad and chips
(french fries). The
second group goes at
6pm. So…everyone
will be fed and happy
by 7pm. The rest of
the evening is yours,
but I would suggest
making it early.
Remember, you
haven’t really slept for
24 hours. Evening in
Amsterdam.
“I don’t think any of us would want to put our fate in the hands of the big countries now.”
Netherlands Finance Minister Gerrit Zalm, Irish Times, November 29, 2003.
Day 3, November 21, Sunday – Amsterdam Art: Rijksmuseum and Canal Cruise.
Breakfast at Euphemia is, well, a breakfast. Sleep in a bit today. Outside around the corner is an amazing bakery. Well,
today we see the best of Rembrandt and Van Gogh. And in between, we see Vermeer, Terborch, Steen and hosts of
others.
We’ll walk over to the Rijksmuseum, leaving the
Euphemia at 10:30am. While the restoration of the
main building is underway, the Rijksmuseum is
displaying the crème de la crème of its permanent
collection in the newly furnished Philips Wing.
'Rijksmuseum, The Masterpieces' offers the unique
opportunity to view all the highlights of the Golden
Age in one place. Fast and excellent. Doesn’t get any
better.
A bit of recent history about the collection. In 1876,
after years of negotiation, it was decided to build the
present Rijksmuseum. Architect P.J.H. Cuypers
designed a historical building using a mixture of
Gothic and Renaissance styles. It was officially
opened in 1885.
Hopefully, the following two pages look familiar.
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After our time at the Rijksmuseum, we’ll exit the back for a group “I Amsterdam” photo. Oh yes. And some lunch. A
number of options here on the Museumplein. By the way, see the Coster Diamond shop on the right? You can go there
either on Monday afternoon or Tuesday afternoon during some of your free time.
Whenever we finish with a leisurely lunch, having seen some of the best Dutch Baroque work in the world, it’s time for ye
ole touristy canal cruise. Time to get those handy “I Amsterdam” cards out. We’ll hop on the Blue Boat Canal Cruise for
the little-over-an-hour tour. You’re going
to love this because, after all, a canal
cruise is an absolute must if you are
visiting Amsterdam. The cruise takes us
along a number of the Amsterdam
canals. Now you can see where you’ve
been walking, only from the water’s
viewpoint. We’ll see the traditional
merchant houses, the numerous bridges,
the typical houseboats and experience
the unique vibe of Amsterdam from the
heated (yes!) cruise boat.
After the cruise, we’ll go back to the
Euphemia. Now you’ll have an little time
to wonder before I meet you to walk to
our Italian group dinner (this one you pay
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for) at Pisa Ristorante (in the Leidseplein area). You choice: Spaghetti Bolognese or Pizza. This has been one full day.
Home we go. The evening’s free. Evening in Amsterdam.
“We must go back to teach Europeans to love Europe.”
Jean Claude Juncker, Prime Minister of Luxembourg, El Pais, June 2, 2004.
Day 4, November 22, Monday - Amsterdam Art: Van Gogh Museum and Free Afternoon.
After our hearty Euphemia breakfast, off we go to the Van Gogh Museum. You’ll need your “I Amsterdam” card again
here. Usually, the museum is packed so we’ll arrive at 10am, just as it opens to beat the crowds and try to move thru it as
best as we can as a group. I am not allowed to lecture here, but we’ll see how we can handle it. This museum, the single
largest collection of Van Gogh’s works, also has a
most interesting annex with work done by others
around the time of Van Gogh. It is kinda amazing
when you think that here is probably the most
popular art museum in The Netherlands and it
encompasses the life work of a man who really was
active for only about ten years.
The museum chronicles every year of Van Gogh’s life,
which is split into seven key stages. The first begins
with his upbringing in the village of Zundert in the
south Netherlands, his relinquishment of boarding
school and his characteristically fervent forays into
teaching and missionary work. In 1880 he made the
decision to become an artist and began taking
painting lessons in The Hague. Two years later he
received his first commission: a request from his
uncle to produce 12 pen and ink drawings of the Dutch
capital. Dissatisfied with his infrequent assignments, Van
Gogh made a decision to focus on depicting peasant life,
and, in 1885, he produced “The Potato Eaters”. Then, of
course, it was hardly viewed with such reverence (even
by brother Theo) and Vincent subsequently moved to
Paris and began to study the developing French
Impressionist movement. His time spent in the French
capital saw him mingle with the likes of Paul Gauguin,
Camille Pissarro and Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec; and his
style began to assimilate these surrounding influences.
Years spent in both Paris and Arles saw the production some of
his most famous works, many of which are housed right here.
They include numerous self-portraits (he was the cheapest
model available), “Wheatfield” and the iconic “Sunflowers”. By
1889, however, Van Gogh was deep in the throes of depression
and voluntarily admitted himself to the psychiatric hospital in
Saint-Remy. Painting became his therapy while confined and the
tortured artist depicted the world as he saw it - through the bars
of his room. After discharging himself, Van Gogh's final days
were spent in Auvers-sur-Oise, where he was to create his last
work “Wheatfield with Crows”.
Perhaps fittingly, the museum itself is something of a work of
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art. It was designed by Gerrit
Rietveld, the famous De Stijl
architect, and its glass walls
provide perfect viewing
conditions for the exhibits. The
complimentary Exhibition Wing
was added by Kisho Kurokawa in
1999.
After our time at the Van Gogh
Museum, you are free for lunch
and the afternoon. There is a
fine cafeteria at the museum.
Or, maybe, you want to go as a group and explore a lunch spot this afternoon. Your “I Amsterdam” cards are now just
pretty items for your scrapbook collection. But the book you got lists loads of activities with coupons you might want to
use. And whether you’re really hungry or not, you just HAVE to try a Dutch pancake. In a couple of days, we’ll be in
Belgium and we’ll have Belgian waffles.
Whatever your choice this afternoon, by this time I think you have figured out Amsterdam by foot. Remember, never go
out by yourself – always with the group. This evening, I want you to plan dinner with a small group. Whatever you want,
wherever you want.
However, let’s plan to meet back at the Euphemia at 8pm for an evening walk to the city center. Evening in Amsterdam.
“The euro was not just a bankers’ decision or a technical decision. It was a decision which completely changed the nature of
the nation states. The pillars of the nation state are the sword and the currency, and we changed that. The euro decision
changed the concept of the nation state and we have to go beyond that.”
President of the European Commission 1999-2004, Romano Prodi, Financial Times interview, April 9, 1999.
Day 5, November 23, Tuesday – Anne Frank House and Free Afternoon.
This is our last full day in Amsterdam. After our Euphemia breakfast, we’ll walk to the modest address: Prinsengracht 263267. This, of course, is the address where a young German girl, her family and friends, hid from the Nazis. Today we visit
the Anne Frank House, a visit that you will always remember. You will actually walk up the same stairs, past the same fake
bookcase/wall, into the annex itself. You will see one of the 3 volumes of the actual diary. I have been here a number of
times and it is still very meaningful to me. Our entrance appointment is at 10:45am, so we will leave the Euphemia by
10:15am.
“Not being able to go outside upsets me more than I can say, and I'm terrified
our hiding place will be discovered and that we'll be shot.” Anne Frank
The Van Pels family
The Van Pels family arrive at the
Secret Annex a week later. Anne is
happy because there are now more
people to talk to. The Van Pels
family live on the third floor.
During the day Mr. and Mrs. Van
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Pels' bedroom functions
as the common living
and dining room. Next
door is Peter van Pels’
tiny room. Anne writes
about it: “…very small,
very dark and damp.”
Via Peter’s room, the
people in hiding can
reach the attic, where
the food supplies are
stored. Anne and Peter
often go to the attic so
they can talk in private.
The Frank family live in
two rooms on the
second floor.
In July 1942, the people
in hiding are
unaware that they will
spend more than two years in the Secret Annex. All that time, they will not be able to go outside and they will have to
share the darkness and dampness of the hiding place, continually fearful of being discovered…
In November 1942, an eighth person joins the people in hiding: Fritz Pfeffer. He is a dentist and an acquaintance of both
the Franks and the Van Pels family. Margot begins sleeping in her parent’s room, so then Anne can share the room next
door with Fritz Pfeffer. In her diary, Anne Frank jots down her first impression of her new roommate: ''...a very nice man”.
On July 23, 1943, Anne writes
down everybody’s wishes:
"Margot and Mr. Van Pels
wish, above all else, to have a
hot bath filled to the brim,
which they can lie in for more
than half an hour. Mrs. Van
Pels would like a cake, Pfeffer
can think of nothing but seeing
his Charlotte and Mother is
dying for a cup of real coffee.
Father would like to visit Mr.
Voskuijl, Peter would go
downtown, and as for me, I'd
be so overjoyed I wouldn't
know where to begin. Most of
all I long to have a home of our
own, to be able to move
around freely and have
someone help me with my
homework again, at last. In
other words, to go back to school!"
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In her diary, Anne describes a particular evening when she uses a pair of binoculars to take a peek at the neighbors: "I
never knew that neighbors could be so interesting. Ours are, at any rate. I've come across a couple at dinner, one family
was making home movies and the dentist across the way was working on a frightened old lady.”
I honestly don’t know how you will see this place: antiquated and meaningless or full of the ghosts of dangerous
nationalism. Well, one way or another, I want you to see and think about this place.
By noon, we’ll be done with the Anne Frank House. You are now free until our last group dinner in Amsterdam. Tonight,
we’ll eat Greek. Never had Greek food before? You’re in for a treat. Evening in Amsterdam.
“The creation of a single European state bound by one European constitution is the decisive task of our time”.
Joschka Fischer, German Foreign Minister since 1998. Daily Telegraph, November 27, 1998.
Day 6, November 24, Wednesday – Amsterdam to Middelburg to Bruges.
We’ll start today early. Breakfast and out by 8am. Our
coach probably can’t pull right up to the hostel, so we’ll
walk down to the park to catch it. Off to SW Netherlands,
to Middelburg, home of our program at the Middelburg
Center for Transatlantic Studies, Roosevelt Academy. We’ll
arrive by 11am at the train station. Now time for a walk to
the Stathuis and the Latin Building. I’ll give you a quick tour
of the facilities and then Mariken will have lunch for everyone.
After lunch, we’ll literally ‘run’ around the town. Advert here.
Like what you see? You can, like our student Doug Auerbach,
spend a semester here. Excuse a personal observation, but the
town and the university is just a fabulous place. You won’t be
able to leave without a taste of a stroopwafel. Then on the bus,
UNDER the sea in a 3 mile tunnel, and there we are – in
Belgium. Another day, another country.
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Now, we’re in Belgium: a country divided in language into
Flemish (very similar to Dutch) and French. Off we go to our
new home, the medieval town of Bruges (Brugge in
Flemish). What a gem of a city.
We’ll check into our hotel, the Ibis, and scurry to our
3:30pm appointment at the Groeninge Museum ( but not
before a visit to Notre Dame (Onze Lieuve Vrouw in
Flemish)) and the only Michaelangelo north of the Alps (but
not in Paris). You’ll just fall in love with this city that you’ve
never heard of. Some call it the Venice of the North (all the
canals). Around every corner and down every cobblestone
street is a surprise. Walk during the day; walk at night. The
lights are haunting.
The Groeninge Museum just opened a major show, Van
Eyck to Durer, and we have tickets for it. No photos, please.
Here are some of the pictures on display:
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.
Can you guess who did what? Easy, really.
After our time at Groeninge, it’s time to take a walk around part of Bruges. At
first these small cobblestone streets all look the same, but they’re not.
A little background about this historic and artistically important town. Bruges
was founded in the 9th century by Vikings who settled here at the end of the
little river 'de Reie'. The
name Bruges is probably
derived from the oldScandinavian word 'Brygga',
which means 'harbor, or
mooring place'. Because of
the proximity of the North
Sea, the settlement very
quickly became an important
international harbor. A small
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river, called the Zwin, connected Bruges with the North Sea. The young settlement acquired city rights as early as the 12th
century. At that time a first protective wall was built around Bruges. Soon, however, the Zwin started to silt up. This would
have caused major problems for the city, were it not that Bruges adapted itself to this situation by creating ports in
Damme and in Sluis. Moreover, transport of goods over land became more and more usual. In the 14th century Bruges
became the starting point of a commercial
transport road to the Rhineland (over
Brussels and Leuven, cities in Brabant which
also started to flourish because of this trade).
Already in the 13th century Bruges was an
important international trading center.
Traders from all over the then known world
came to the city to sell their products to each
other and to buy Flemish cloth, a
internationally acclaimed textile product,
produced in different Flemish cities (e.g.
Gent). In the early 14th century Bruges was
the scene of political unrest between the
citizens and the count of Flanders. Because of
this unrest the French king tried to annex the
county of Flanders, but the population
managed to kick out the French troops on
May the 18th 1302. Later the Flemish army
beat the French army in the 'Battle of the Golden Spurs' on July the 11th in the Flemish city of Kortrijk.
In the 14th century Bruges turned also into an international financial and trading center. It became the warehouse of the
North-European Hanza cities. Several countries had their own representation in Bruges: the Italians, the Germans, the
Scottish. The Spanish made the city into a true European center where different languages could be heard and where the
most exotic products could be found.
The decline of Bruges' wealth started in the 15th century : the
unstoppable silting up of the Zwin, the competition with the
bigger harbor of Antwerp and the crisis in the cloth industry
resulted in less commercial activity. The crisis, however, was not
immediately noticeable. Bruges continued to construct splendid
late-gothic buildings and churches, and the Flemish painting
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school (with Jan Van Eyck and Hans Memling ) started to flourish as never before.
By the end of the 16th century the former glory was only a memory and Bruges slipped into a quiet period that lasted
several centuries. New textile industries were introduced in
the 19th century, but to no avail. In the middle of the 1800s,
Brugge was the poorest city in Belgium. The 20th century,
however, brought new life. The city was discovered by
international tourism and the medieval heritage turned out to
be a new source of wealth for the 'Venice of the North'.
Economically and industrially another important evolution
took place. The new harbor of Zeebrugge (10 miles outside of
the city at the Belgian coast) brought new developments and
new industries to the region.
Our dinner tonight will be at the De Gouden Aap (The Golden
Monkey). Why such a name? You’ll see. Just as the art and
architecture is unique here, there is a unique Flemish stew to
warm you up. Evening free. Evening in Bruges.
"To enter Europe, you must have a valid passport with a photograph of yourself in which you look
like you are being booked on charges of soliciting sheep.”
Dave Barry, American writer and humorist best known for his weekly syndicated newspaper column from Miami.
Day 7, November 25, Thursday –Bruges to Brussels.
Rise and shine to a marvelous breakfast. You’ll like this one; but if you
leave hungry, it’s your own fault. Today we’ve got to be down to the train
station by 9:30am for our train to Brussels. Time to see the capitol of
Belgium and, some would say, the capitol of the EU.
We’ll see the origins of Art Nouveau, a humanistic art style that spread
worldwide c. 1890s into the 20th century.
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"One of the most beautiful town squares in Europe, if not in the world". This is a phrase I've heard when visitors in
Brussels try to describe the beauty of this central market square. French speakers refer to it as the 'Grand-Place', whereas
in Dutch it is called 'de grote Markt'. Contemporary tourists are not alone in their admiration. Archduchess Isabella,
daughter of Philip II of Spain wrote about the square during her visit to Brussels on September 5, 1599: "Never have I
seen something so beautiful and exquisite as the town
square of the city where the town hall rises up into the
sky. The decoration of the houses is most remarkable".
Writers like Victor Hugo and Baudelaire were also struck
by the charm of the market square with its beautiful set
of Guild Houses dominated by the Town Hall and the
King's house. The origins of the Grand-Place, however,
are humble. The site still formed a sand bank between
two brooks which ran downhill to the river Senne. Once
the sand bank was reclaimed it turned into the
‘Niedermerckt’, or 'lower market'. Already in the 12th
century Brussels had become a commercial crossroads
between Bruges, Cologne, and France. English wool,
French wines and German beer were sold in the harbor
and on the market.
During the early Middle Ages small wooden houses were scattered around the
market, but starting in the 1300s the rich and powerful patrician families built stone
mansions. Gradually the market turned into the main commercial and administrative
center of the city. In 1402 the construction of the Town Hall started (which would
eventually be completed around 1455). The square had by then already become the
political center where meetings were held, where executions took place and where
dukes, kings and emperors where officially received. In the following centuries most
wooden houses were replaced with beautifully decorated stone ones, mostly owned
by the Brussels guilds.
On August 13, 1695, however, the prestigious square was bombed to ruins by Field
Marchal De Villeroy. By order of Louis XIV of France he had Brussels destroyed in
reprisal of a lost Battle in Namur (south Belgium). Between 1695 and 1700 the guilds
rebuilt all the houses. Also the heavily damaged Town Hall was entirely reconstructed.
In the 18th and 19th centuries most of the houses
became private property. After attempts of several
owners to modernize the facades of their houses,
which would have resulted in a mutilation of the unity
of style, the mayor of Brussels, Karel Buls, decided
that the houses of the Grand-Place had to be
preserved as much as possible in their original style.
Nowadays, the Grand-Place is the main tourist
attraction of the City of Brussels. All through the year
it is visited by thousands who, like you, will spend
time wandering around, admiring the buildings, and
eating Belgian waffels (like we'll do - no doubt).
Follow me and we'll visit the first citizen of Brussels, a
distinctive monument lovingly called Mannekin Pis.
For obvious reasons.
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New York has the Statue of Liberty, Copenhagen has the mermaid and Brussels has the
Manneken Pis. This statue of a little boy in a rather distinctive position has been a tourist
attraction for centuries. When most people see the 'manneken', the first reaction is always one
of amazement: "Look, how small he is. Why does everybody want to see him?" The people of
Brussels, however, accept him the way he is. After all, it doesn't always have to be big to be
beautiful. Imagine what would happen if he was the size of the Statue of Liberty? Brussels would
be flooded.
Nobody actually knows why the manneken is there. But that doesn’t stop the stories from
popping up. He is believed to be nothing more than a decoration on top of a fountain, where
people in the Middle Ages came to get fresh water. Already in the 1400s a fountain called
'manneken pis' existed in the Stoofstraat/Rue de l'étuve. The official origin can be traced back to
the 13th of August 1619 when the city ordered the sculptor Jerome Duquesnoy to make a new
bronze statue of manneken pis to replace an old and withered one. During the course of the
centuries our little manneken has often been hidden to protect him against bombs of invading
armies. He has also been stolen several times by plundering soldiers and even by the citizens of
Geraardsbergen, a city in Flanders that claims to possess the oldest statue of a peeing boy in
Belgium.
A lot of people do not know that the manneken pis is very often dressed. At the moment he has
a wardrobe of more than 600 costumes, which are all preserved in the King's House, or City
Museum at the Grand-Place, the central market square of the city. He received his first costume
on May the 1st 1698. The governor of the Austrian Netherlands gave the costume on the
occasion of festivities organized by one of
the guilds of Brussels. Many more
costumes were to follow. Even nowadays
he often receives a new outfit when
groups come to visit Brussels. (We should
think of a Spartan Blue one, don’t you
think?) Often, to thank them for the gift,
the manneken offers the people of such
groups beer which comes directly from a
beer barrel attached to the statue.
Among the more special costumes are a
Father ‘Pis’mas outfit, a Mickey Mouse
outfit and (of course) an Elvis outfit.
Thank you. Thank you very much.
There are many legends about the
Manneken. According to one of them a
little boy had watered against the door of
a witch who lived where the fountain
now stands. The witch was so angry that
she turned the little boy into a statue.
Another legend says that a man had lost his little son. He found the child after two days near the
place where now the fountain of manneken pis can be seen. When the father spotted his child, the latter was peeing. As a
token of gratitude the father had the fountain with a statue of a peeing boy constructed. Another origin story is a bit
more somber, a memorial to a child who was kidnapped and later found dead at the spot.
If the sight of manneken pis inspires you to new legends, don't hesitate to contact the city authorities. Now, it is time to
visit the Koninklijke Musea voor Schone Kunsten van België (in Flemish), Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique (in
French), and the Royal Museum of Fine Arts in Belgium. Confused? All one and the same. Please bring your student IDs to
get in at the lower rate.
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Regardless, we will have a fabulous time here in Brussels. Of course, let’s not loose fact that today is Thanksgiving Day
back home. So tonight, we will give thanks at a restaurant in Brussels (probably Italian). I figure you’ll all survive no turkey
and, besides, I am planning a chicken meal for Friday night. In any case, it’ll be a great meal, surely.
We’ll take the train back to Bruges. Evening in Bruges.
In response to the question "Did you have in mind a United States of Europe in 1972?" "Of course, yes".
Former Prime Minister UK, Edward Heath, 1990.
Day 8, November 26, Friday –Free Day in Bruges.
This is a free day for you. You could sleep in, but then again, you’d miss
a great breakfast. So…EAT. And then use the day to play around in
Bruges. Get lost (as part of a group). Visit one of the churches again.
Have a Belgian waffle or one of those great ‘chips’ from the green chip
shop in front of the Belfry. I will suggest various activities including, if
the weather is with us, renting a bike to see Bruges on wheels.
"The introduction of the Euro is probably the most important integrating step since the beginning of the unification process.
It is certain that the times of individual national efforts regarding employment policies, social and tax policies are definitely
over. This will require to finally bury some erroneous ideas of national sovereignty. I’m convinced our standing in the world
regarding foreign trade & international finance policies will sooner or later force a Common Foreign and Security Policy
worthy of its name. National sovereignty in foreign and security policy will become a product of the imagination".
Former German Chancellor Schroder in 'New Foundations for European Integration', January 19, 1999.
Day 9, November 27, Saturday –Bruges to Amsterdam to Minneapolis to Chicago to Dubuque. Whew.
Hopefully we’ll have time for a quick breakfast before we say goodbye to Bruges (and Europe) on the first part of our
day’s travel. We’ll probably board the coach to Amsterdam around 7:30am. Here is where you wish you had packed less,
believe me. By the time we arrive at Schiphol and check in, we should have plenty of time for duty free shopping. Also, if
you have any extra euros and you want to make dollars out of them, this is the place (not back in the US). These have to
be the biggest duty free shops in the world. How does it work? Easy, and perhaps too easy. Now, if you don’t know what
Duty Free is...it is simply this—shopping without paying taxes. Given the fact that tax on some items can be as high as
21%, it can really be a bargain. I’ll make some suggestions. Our flights:
Amsterdam to Minneapolis:
Depart: DL 265. 2:40pm. Arrive Minneapolis at 4:40pm.
Minneapolis to Chicago:
Depart: DL 2107.7pm. Arrive Chicago at 8:25pm.
Chicago to Dubuque:
Depart via coach at 9:15pm. Arrive Dubuque, c. 12:30am on Sunday.
We might stop for a greasy hamburger on the way home, but should be back at UD in the Tech Center just after midnight.
Whew, what a trip. Now remember, today is Sunday. Rest. Do your wash. On Monday, plan to stop in and say ‘hi’ to
Phyllis and me on Monday. Please remember: our final class meeting will be on Wednesday night: December 8 at 7pm.
Your journals and 2 pictures (8x10) are due. This is not an optional class. I expect you to attend and hand in your final
work.
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