DEER HAIR
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DEER HAIR
VOTE FOR THE ANNUAL FLY-TYING ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS PAGE 16 WINTER 2010 Spin & Trim DEER HAIR Like a Pro Guide to hing e t e l p m Co ph-Fis m y N n Europea iques and Flies Techn John Gierach on STEELHEAD FLIES (With 13 Favorite Patterns) CATCH BASS in the Everglades REALISTIC LEECHES Catch More Trout PLUS… Make spoon flies using Silly Putty, the mysteries of collecting antique patterns, the world’s coolest fly-tying beads, and much more. www.flytyer.com RENZETTI, INC. TITUSVILLE, FLORIDA Fishing is not an escape from life, but often a deeper immersion into it. - Harry Middleton MADE IN Introducing our newest product line . . . Pres. 4000 Midge Jaw Pres. 2000 Accessories Push Pole Holders RENZETTI’S DEALER LIST We are thankful to our retailers for the trust they have placed in us as business partners, and we are grateful to them for continuing to promote this beautiful art. Alaska Juneau Flyfishing Goods Juneau 907 586 3754 Nature Coast Fly Shop Crystal River 352 795 3156 www.thenaturecoastfly.com Arkansas Ozark Angler Little Rock 501 225 6504 The Fly Fisherman Titusville 321 267 0348 www.xstreamoutfitters.com Mclellan’s Fly Shop Fayetteville 479 251 7037 Georgia The Fish Hawk Atlanta 404 237 3473 www.thefishhawk.com California Marriott’s Flyfishing Store Fullerton 800 535 6333 www.bobmarriotts.com Fishermen’s Spot Van Nuys 818 785 7306 www.fishermenspot.com Le Land Fly Fishing Outfitters San Francisco 415 781 3474 Colorado Front Range Angler Boulder 303 494 1375 Idaho Jimmy’s All Season Angler Idaho Falls 208 5247160 Silver Creek Outfitters Ketchum 208 726 5282 Illinois Chicago Fly Fishing Outfitters Chicago 312 944 3474 www.chifly.com Denver Angler Centennial 303 403 4512 Indiana Fly Master of Indianapolis Indianapolis 317 570 9811 www.FlyMasters.com Angler’s Cove Colorado Spgs, 719 471 2984 www.anglerscovey.com Kansas Ark River Anglers Wichita 316 682 8006 St. Peters Fly Shop Ft Collins 970 498 8968 Maine Fly Fishing Only Fairfield 207 453 6242 www.maineflyfishing.com Anglers All Ltd. Littleton 303 794 1104 www.anglersall.com Connecticut Compleat Angler Darien 203 655 9400 Massachustts Bears Den Fly Fishing Tauton 508 977 0700 www.bearsden.com Missouri Feather-Craft Fly Fishing St. Louis 800 659 1709 www.feather-craft.com Reading Fly Shop Lebanon 417 588 4334 www.readingflyshop.com Montana Rainbow Run Fly Shop Billings 406 586 5393 www.rainbowrunflyshop.com The Rivers Edge Outfitters Bozeman 406 586 5373 www.theriversedge.com Madison River Fishing Co. Ennis 800 227 7127 www.mrfc.com New Hampshire Stone River Outfitters Bedford 800 331 8558 www.stoneriveroutfitters Tulpechocken Creek Outfitters West Lawn 610 678 1899 www.tcoflyfishing.com Yellow Breeches Outfitters Boiling Springs 717 258 6752 www.yellowbreeches.com Rhode Island Carr’s Rod N-Gun Hope 401 821 7582 River & Riptide Anglers Coventry 401 392 1919 www.riverandriptide.com Ramsey Outdoor Paramus 201 261 5000 Mahoney Outfiiters Johnson City 423 282 5413 New Mexico Los Pinos Fly & Tackle Albuquerque 505 884 7501 Cumberland Transit Nashville 615 321 4069 New York Campsite Sport Shop Huntington Station 631 271 4969 www.campsitesportshop.com North Carolina Wilson’s Creek Outfitters Morganton 828 430 3593 Colton Bay Outfitters Ann Arbor 734 222 9776 Waynesville Fly Shop Waynesville 828 246 0306 Great Lakes Fly Fishing Co. Rockford 800 303 0567 Ohio Chagrin River Outfitters Chagrin Falls 440 247 7110 Mad River Outfitters Columbus 888 451 0363 The Backpacker’s Shop of Ohio Sheffield Village 440 934 5345 TMF Sport Shop Ravenna 330 296 2614 www.bright.net/~tmfsportshop Oregon Creekside Flyfishing Salem 503 588 1768 www.creeksideflyfishing.com Realistic flies tied using Renzetti’s state of the art vises, accessories, wing burners and materials. Neschannock Creek Fly Shop Volant 724 533 3212 www.ncflyshop.com CR Outfitters Clinton 865 494 2305 Littler Fork Outfitters Midland 989 832 4100 The Fly Shop of Miami Miami 305 669 5851 www.flyshopofmiami.com Wisconsin Fly Fishers Milwaukee 414 259 8100 www.theflyfishers.com 46 Bait & Tackle Palosades 201 917 5882 Florida Ole Florida Fly Shop Boca Raton 561 995 1929 Minnesota The Fly Angler Fridley 763 572 3782 Flyfisher’s Paradise State College 814 234 4189 www.flyfishersparadise.com Tennessee The Fly Shop of Tennessee Johnson City, 423 928 2007 Michigan Gates AuSable Lodge & Pro Grayling 989 348 8462 www.gateslodge.com The Fly Fisherman Orlando 407 898 1989 www.xstreamoutfitters.com Gig Harbor Fly Shop Gig Harbor 253 304 5090 www.gigharborflyshop.com New Jersey Efinger Sporting Goods Bound Brook 732 356 0604 www.efingersport.com Delaware A Marblehead Flyfisher Inc Wilmington 302 654 6515 The Fly Shop of Ft. Lauderdale Ft. Lauderdale 954 772 5822 www.flyshopofftlauderdale.com Pennsylvania French Creek Outfitters Phoenixville 610 933 7200 Little River Outfitters Townsend 865 448 4959 www.littleriverourtiftters.com Tight Lines Fly Fishing CO. De Pere 920 336 4106 www.tightlinesflyshop.com West Virginia The Angler’s Inn Fly Shop Harpers Ferry 304 535 1239 Wyoming Platte River Fly Shop Casper 307 237 5997 www.wyomingflyfishing.com Canada Alberta Country Pleasure Flyfishing Calgary 403 271 1016 Fish Tales Fly Shop Ltd Calgary 403 640 1273 www.fishtales.ca The Fishing Hole Edmonton 780 469 8630 British Columbia Castlegar Sport & Fly Shop Castlegar 250 365 8288 Michael & Young Fly Shop Vancouver 604 639 2278 www.myflyshop.com Highwater Tackle Ltd. N. Vancouver 604 986 3239 Texas Backwoods Dallas 817 332 2423 Robinson’s Outdoor Store Victoria 250 385 5835 www.robinsonoutdoors.com Sportman’s Finest Austin 512 263 1888 www.sportsmanfinest.com Trout Waters Fly & Tackle Kelowna 250 860 2262 www.troutwaters.ca Tackle Box Outfitters San Antonio 210 821 5806 www.tackleboxoutfitters.com Ontario Angling Specialties Concord 905 660 9707 www.anglingspecialties.com Utah Mickey Finn’s Fly Box Kaysville 801 593 5557 www.mickeyfinnflybox.com Grand River Troutfitters Fergus 519 787 4359 www.grandrivertroutfitters.com Fish Tech Salt Lake City 801 272 6935 www.fishtechoutfitters.com Wilson’s Canada Flyfishing Store Toronto 877 347 4460 Washington Creekside Angling Issaquah 425 392 3800 www.creeksideangling.com *Heritage Renzetti Dealers Shown in red have been promoting the art of Fly Tying for over 15 years. Avid Angler Lake Forest Park 206 362 4030 *Legacy Dealers shown in blue have been promoting the art of Fly Tying for over 10 years. Fly Fishing Shop Welches 503 622 4607 www.flyfishusa.com Angler’s Workshop Woodland 360 225 9445 www.anglersworkshop.com Home Waters Fly Fishing Inc. Eugene 541 342 6691 Puget Sound Fly Co. LLC. Kent 253 839 4119 www.pugetsoundflyco.com ARTWORK: CAVE WOBBLER © 2009 J.E. FITZPATRICK Contents Ta b l e o f Features A Realistic Terrestrial Volume 16, Number 4 www.flytyer.com What Every Fly Tier Should Know 26 A Better Black Gnat Igor & Nadica Stancev Don’t overlook all those black flies hovering near the riverbank. The authors’ Hawthorn fly works wherever trout feed on land-born insects. 13 Great Patterns 32 The Nuclear Option for Steelhead John Gierach Fly-fishing’s most renowned author shares his thoughts about tying flies for fish that don’t eat. Special Report 40 Euro-Nymphing Demystified WINTER 2010 Aaron Jasper Anglers practicing Czech nymphing and similar methods are winning the World Fly Fishing Championships. Be the first on your river to use these advanced troutfishing techniques and flies. 48 Hair-Wrangling 101 Dick Talleur A master tier shares his secrets for spinning and trimming deer hair. A Timeless Classic 56 The Carey Special: A Northwest Original Mark Halperin Tie these classic flies to catch modern trout. Great Florida Fishing 62 Everglades Bass on the Fly Pat Ford The ’Glades are known for snook and tarpon, but bass? You bet! Tie these flies and get ready to go to hawg heaven. Page 62 2 | w w w. f l y t y e r. c o m Columns Page 20 4 Editor’s Page David Klausmeyer Fly Tyer Offers Digital Edition Subscriptions 6 First Wraps Edited by David Klausmeyer In Quest of the D7 Plus: Vote for the fly-tying lifetime achievement awards, For the Record, the world’s most beautiful vise, and more. 18 Creative Tying Page 23 Jay “Fishy” Fullum Fishy’s Alderfly Page 26 Page 56 20 Beginner’s Corner Mike Hogue The Cricket Nymph: A Realistic Panfish Fly 23 Materials Notebook David Klausmeyer The Bead Revolution Continues 68 Match the Hatch Andrew Puls Mimicking Real Leeches 72 Salt Water Zach Matthews Getting Silly with Spoon Flies 80 Fly Tyer Profile Page 68 Jay Jacobs Lee Weil: Long Island’s Master Bug Maker Page 18 ON THE COVER Lee Weil is a master at spinning and clipping deer-hair bass bugs. Photography by David Klausmeyer Winter 2010 | 3 EDITOR’S BENCH by David Klausmeyer Fly Tyer Offers Digital Edition Subscriptions F FLY TYER HAS ALWAYS BEEN A MAGAzine of firsts. Fly Tyer was the first publication to report on many of our most famous patterns: the Elk-Hair Caddis, Lefty’s Deceiver, Surf Candies, and the Compara-dun. It has always been the magazine where the best-known tiers and authors publish many of their first articles: Dave Whitlock, John Gierach, Dick Talleur, A. K. Best, Lee Wulff, Gary Borger— the list is too long to name them all. And Fly Tyer has led the revolution in introducing Fly Tyer spans the fly-tying world. Now you can easily enjoy your favorite magazine regardless of where you live—or where you tie. new tying materials to our craft: beads, epoxy, craft furs, Flashabou, and Krystal Flash, and everything else you’ll find on a modern fly-tying bench. Once again, Fly Tyer is breaking new ground by offering subscriptions to digital editions of the magazine. Now, rather than waiting to receive a magazine in the mail or hunting for a copy on newsstands, you can receive Fly Tyer (the very magazine you hold in your hands) online to read on your computer. What are the advantages of a digital magazine? PUBLISHER William S. Morris III GENERAL MANAGER Steve Walburn EDITOR / PHOTOGRAPHER David Klausmeyer ART DIRECTOR Wayne Knight MANAGING EDITOR Russ Lumpkin COPY EDITOR Eliani Torres FULFILLMENT First, receiving a digital magazine is very convenient: You won’t have to wait for the postman to drop it through the slot in the door, nor will you have to wait for the store to stock it on the shelves. Nonresidents of the United States will especially see the benefits in subscribing to an online magazine. There’s no long wait for the magazine to arrive in the mail, and because there are no international postage costs, we can offer digital subscriptions at the U.S. print subscription price. There are additional benefits to a digital magazine. For example, Web site addresses, whether in articles or advertisements, will be linked to those sites. Some articles will also be linked to videos and additional sources of valuable information that will help you get even more out of each issue of Fly Tyer. You will also be able to read Fly Tyer wherever you have access to a computer: at home, at work, or on the road. We are offering this service in response to reader demand: A large number of you, particularly our foreign readers, have requested a digital magazine. But have no fear: Fly Tyer will continue with our print publication. If you prefer to hold and read a paper magazine, we will always be there for you. But if you find it preferable or more convenient to subscribe to a digital version, you now have that choice. And if you subscribe to print and want digital as well, go to our Web site and sign up for the digital version free with your print subscription. To subscribe to Fly Tyer—whether the print or digital edition—visit the “subscribe” section of our Web site, www.flytyer.com. MANAGER Jennifer Dunigan BUSINESS MANAGER Michelle L. Rowe CIRCULATION MANAGER Karen Ficklin ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES Advertising Director Michael Floyd (706) 823-3739 Fax: (706) 724-3873 [email protected] Northeast Scott Buchmayr (978) 462-6335 Fax: (978) 462-6445 [email protected] Midwest/Southeast Amos Crowley (440) 564-5255 Fax: (440) 564-5244 [email protected] Classifieds/International Chad McClure (706) 828-3832 Fax: (706) 724-3873 [email protected] Art/Real Estate Janet Woods (706) 823-3461 Fax: (706) 724-3873 [email protected] Advertising Coordinator Millicent Williams (706) 823-3629 Fax: (706) 724-3873 [email protected] C O N T R I B U T I N G F LY T I E R S & W R I T E R S Al and Gretchen Beatty, A. K. Best, Henry Cowen, Jay Buchner, Oliver Edwards, Chico Fernandez, Jay “Fishy” Fullum, Keith Fulsher, John Gantner, Anthony Hipps, Jim Krul, Capt. John Kumiski, Bill “Bugs” Logan, Scott Sanchez, Capt. Ray Stachelek, Shane Stalcup, Nadica and Igor Stancev, Dick Talleur, Vince Wilcox SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES: (Orders, address changes, problems) 800-397-8159 PRODUCT INFORMATION/BACK ISSUES: 800-414-9101 www.flytyer.com A Publication of MCC Magazines, LLC a division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 735 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901 I N T E R I M P R E S I D E N T Paul Smith C O N T R O L L E R Scott Ferguson C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R Bill Greenlaw I N T E R A C T I V E D I R E C T O R Jason Doyle MCC Communications Company, LLC C H A I R M A N A N D C E O William S. Morris III P R E S I D E N T William S. Morris IV FLY TYER® (ISSN 1082-1309) is published quarterly by MCC Magazines, LLC, 735 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901. Editorial Offices: P.O. Box 810, Arlington, VT 05250. For subscription inquiries, call 1-800-397-8159. American Angler,® American Angler & Fly Tyer,® Fly Tyer,® and Saltwater Fly Fishing,® are registered marks of MCC Magazines, LLC. Warmwater Fly Fishing for Bass & Other Species™ is a trademark of Morris Communications Company, LLC. Subscriptions rate is $21.95 for one year, $41.90 for two years. Canada and Mexico add $10.00 per year (U.S. Funds only). Outside North America add $20.00 per year (U.S. Funds only). Periodicals postage paid in Augusta, GA 30901, and at additional mailing offices. ©2010 MCC Magazines, LLC. All rights reserved. Volume 16 Number 4. PRINTED IN THE USA Postmaster send address changes to FLY TYER P.O. Box 469017, Escondido, CA 92046-9017 Letters to the Editor Got an opinion about something you have read or seen in Fly Tyer? E-mail us at [email protected]. 4 | w w w. f l y t y e r. c o m Grand Prize Sweepstakes Win a trip to ALASKA! Sign up for our monthly sweepstakes at www.flytyer.com to win one great prize each month, including products from the top brands in the business. When you register for the monthly prize, you automatically qualify for our annual grand prize, which is a seven-day seven-night stay for two at Rapids Camp Lodge — one of Alaska’s top fly-out sportfishing destinations. • Fish the world-class rivers of Katmai Park, explore remote and rarely-fished rivers on the Alaska Peninsula or take a day trip to Geographic Harbor. Our strategic location close to Ugashik and Becharof Lakes assures guests access to some of the most exclusive areas of the Bristol Bay watershed. With full access to over 50 different remote streams, Rapids Camp Lodge offers visitors the ultimate Alaskan experience. Our boats, rafts and planes enable us to deliver a custom fishing program that is secondto-none. Pacific salmon, char, trout, halibut, ling cod, rockfish...your choice. Contact ~ Will Blair • Office 303-530-4206 • Toll-Free 800-624-6843 • Cell 530-941-8524 • www.rapidscamplodge.com Visit www.flytyer.com and qualify to win... write to fit. write to fit. write to fit. write to fit. write to fit. write to fit. write to fit. write to fit. write to fit. write to fit. write to fit. write to fit. write to fit. F OLLOWING MY ARTICLE titled “Lost Treasures,” which appeared in the Spring 2009 issue of Fly Tyer, I’ve learned quite a bit about the history of flies in the Monadnock Region of New Hampshire. By the time my 15 minutes of fame began to flicker out, I was the acknowledged local fly historian. There was no end to the number of comments and suggestions I received, as well as a few actual leads to flies. While all the leads were interesting, there were only a few that didn’t fizzle out after the initial contact. Of course, all the leads were great in terms of meeting new people, and each lead generated at least three more contacts. As I spent all my spare time making phone calls, taking notes, and wondering what I was going to do with all this data, a nagging thought crept into the back of my mind. Somewhere I had seen a framed set of about three dozen streamers, and I recalled that they were undocumented. Surely these needed to be documented and included in my research. It took me a few weeks before I could remember the location of those flies. It made perfect sense that I had difficulty remembering: they were at a place known for classic salmon flies, not trout streamers. In the summer of 2006, as I finished my classic fly-dressing apprenticeship, my instructor and I went on a field trip to visit Phil Castleman in Springfield, Massachusetts. Phil runs Castle Arms, a fly-tying Web site, but if you ask him nicely, he might let you visit his “store.” It’s not actually a store; it’s more like a huge single-room flytying warehouse. Phil caters to salmon fly dressers, but also serves others looking for exotic feathers or materials: Native Americans, feather artists, and costume makers. As an example, if you’re looking for some olive chenille to tie Woolly Buggers, Phil may or may not have it. But, if you need some Indian crow, or if you’re not sure if you need Pyroderus scutatus scutatus, or if you want to compare Spanish silk gut to Here’s the mystery frame opened for inspection. The pattern the author calls “D7” has brown wings and is second from the bottom corner. (Left) Phil Castleman in the heart of Castle Arms. A frame of flies from Phil’s shop has generated several mysteries that the author is eager to solve. vintage British silk—or maybe you want to take a look at all 75 available colors of Japanese silk floss—then you’ve come to the right place. At any rate, when I recalled that I saw the framed streamers at Castle Arms, the usual mild panic overcame me. This is the same fear that drives all my efforts toward collecting data on local New England streamers. It is based on the fact that the few local tiers I know are all in their 80s, few youngsters are picking up the hobby, and fishing itself has dropped off. What is going to happen when all these older tiers die off? Who is keeping track of all these patterns? In the case of Castle Arms, the situation might be worse: I worried that it was no longer in business. I hadn’t been down to Phil’s store in several years, and it served an obscure niche of an already dwindling hobby; and, by the way, Phil Castleman was no spring chicken. I called as soon as I could on Monday morning. “Castle Arms!” Hey, he’s still in business! “Busy as a one-armed paper hanger!” And business is good! “Just got back from turkey hunting up on the Deerfield!” And he’s in good health! Breathing a bit easier, I made an appointment to visit later in the week. Someone took great care in naming all the flies in the frame. Note that one blank is empty. Of such small things mysteries are born. Winter 2010 | 7 ,ZZLU[PHS:RPSSZ ZLWK 6SP]LY,K^HYKZ A Visit to Castle Arms *aLJO5`TWOPUN <WZ[YLHT5`TWOPUN HUK5VY[O*V\U[Y` :WPKLYZ )PN+Y`-SPLZ MVY-HZ[>H[LY 5 6 > ( = ( 0 3 ( ) 3 , 6SP]LY»Z7H[[LYUZ 6SP]LY,K^HYKZ )HL[PZ5`TWO 6SP]LY,K^HYKZ /LW[HNLUPK5`TWO 6SP]LY,K^HYKZ 9O`HJVWOPSH3HY]H 6SP]LY,K^HYKZ /`KYVWZ`JOL3HY]HL 6SP]LY,K^HYKZ -YLZO^H[LY:OYPTW )\`6USPULH[ FIRST WRAPS That Thursday, I found myself standing on the fourth floor of an office building in downtown Springfield. It would be difficult to fully describe Phil’s store, but try to imagine a freight train filled with fly rods, a semi-trailer on its way to a fishing-tackle convention, and a moving van coming from a natural history museum—all arriving at a railroad crossing at the same unfortunate time. In the background, add what might be a good contender for the world’s largest collection of framed fishing flies, and you’ll have a pretty good feel for what the Castle Arms is like. Of course, this business is basically just a hobby—Phil is currently a lawyer. Phil Castleman grew up in Boston and went to Colby College in Waterville, Maine. Phil met his wife in Waterville, and it is also where he became immersed in the fishing lore of the Rangeley Lakes Region. Some of Phil’s early recollections of Maine include trips to Upper Dam to buy streamers from Carrie Stevens for 35 cents apiece. In 1951, he left school and began his first career working as a division manager for a lumber company, but it was also the year he started selling guns and fly-tying materials, and Castle Arms was born. Phil stayed with the lumber company until his early forties when he retired. He then started working in various government positions, and he put himself through law school. Phil has practiced law throughout the second half of his life, and Castle Arms expanded to include fly rods and more exotic feathers. We made our introductions once we were in the storefront. Phil remembered our original meeting when we discussed the framed streamers, and he was more than willing to pull them off the wall so we could get a better look. And I do mean pull: the flies were arranged in a large Riker box that was actually taped to the wall. He ripped it off—along with a bit of the Sheetrock—and we took a few photos. We got to chatting, and started talking about how the flies were all unnamed, and how he first saw the framing at an auction in 1951 when he left Wa- ^^^LZZLU[PHSZRPSSZ[] 8 | w w w. f l y t y e r. c o m terville. He wanted the framing then, but the opening bid was $5, which seemed a bit steep at the time. Later on he had the chance to buy it at a Lang’s fishing-tackle auction in Boston in 1961—or maybe it was 1963. Phil made an opening bid of $25, no one countered, and so he took the flies home. While I was propping the frame for a better photo, I noticed some paper on the back. Looking closer, it turned out to be a list of fly names, arranged suspiciously like the flies in the frame. They were arranged in a nice table, four across and seven down. It was the names of all the flies. I showed Phil my discovery. At first he was as dumbfounded as I was, and then had some faint memory of the flies being named. He thought that most of the names were made up, or wild guesses at best. Of course, once I actually paid attention to what the flies looked like, and then referred to the names again, it was one of those classic “Well, duh!” moments: some of the flies should have been familiar. While most of the flies were pretty obscure, a few of them were so runof-the-mill that I can’t believe I didn’t recognize them. Patterns like the Gray and Green Ghosts, the Parmachene Beau, and the Nine-Three. I should have known they weren’t Lost Treasures the moment I saw them. I guess because they were tied as tandems they didn’t look quite the same, but still, I should have been tipped off. At any rate, the wind had been let completely out of my sails. Suddenly, since the names were known, all the adventure of trying to figure out the origins of the flies just went up in smoke. We chatted for a minute, and then Phil, glancing at the listing on the back, said, “I wonder what that one is?” I then noticed that one of the locations on the table of names was empty. It was in the fourth column, the seventh fly down. As I looked for the name of the fly, I started referring to it as the D7—the name of the fly’s location as if it was on a spreadsheet: column D, row 7. It turned out that one of the flies on the frame had the potential to be a Lost Treasure after all. We discussed it a bit more, shook hands, and I took my notebook and camera back to New Hampshire. The Quest Continues I’ve been pursuing the name of this fly through my various references, but now I’m more focused on the story of the frame. Is this the very same frame that Phil Castleman saw in 1951? Could it be something different? Since it looks like a very professional tying job, who put it together? What was the purpose? The flies are all tied in what I would refer to as a “presentation style,” with a bit more flourish, and perhaps showing more of the materials than you would normally see in 1 a standard fishing fly. Were they tiedFTYMG_100600_Dr.Slick.indd by a fly shop as advertising, or perhaps tied by a commercial tier as a demonstration piece? Maybe this isn’t the same frame IES that started out in Waterville in the first R place, and it’s something totally different, SO S and much more recent. CE How can I solve this mystery? I’m still AC poking around, and still asking questions. ND A I now have a printout of the frame in my S OR history folder. Any time I bump into anyS IS one who has any knowledge of Rangeley SC flies, I pull out that photo. You just never G IN know who you’re going to run into. Y T I’ve learned a lot about flies and fly Y L F tiers over the past couple of years, but 50-A M this episode taught me quite a bit about IU $15.75 expectations. In the beginning, I forgot EM where I’d seen this set of flies. I then PR remembered and set up a meeting. Phil and I were both convinced that all the 60-A flies were mysteries, and then we discov$16.25 70-A ered they all had names. Within a few $19.25 minutes, I was back to having a single mystery fly, so now I’m looking around for anything that might lead me to the history of the D7, and the history of the frame. The moral of the story is that I need APEX VISE to be optimistic, keep an open mind, and $99.95 keep collecting data on New England C-CLAMP AND streamers. Sometimes the Lost Treasures ATLAS VISE BASE INCLUDED MADE IN THE USA $149.95 you stumble upon are more or less of a C-CLAMP AND treasure than you anticipate, but in the BASE INCLUDED end they’re all worth the effort. Larry Antonuk is an extremely talented tier and fly-fishing historian. Larry lives in New Hampshire. If you’d like to know more about Castle Arms, check out the Web site, www. castlearms.com. 4/14/10 3:26:54 PM 999T#08+.75#T%1/LNNTJKJTFLLK[email protected] Winter 2010 | 9 FTYMG_1012WI_Anvil.indd 1 11/3/10 9:25:57 AM FIRST WRAPS For theRecord Danville Chenille Co., Inc. Peter Harrison Catches North America’s Manufacturer & Wholesaler of Fly-Tying Materials Known Worldwide for Fine Quality at Reasonable Prices Rainbow Trout. FTYMG_1012WI_White Water Flies.indd 1 10/28/10 3:44:42 PM Largest by Ted Rogowski WIDE ASSORTMENT OF SIZES AND COLORS IN CHENILLE AND TYING THREADS Ask for Danville products at fly shops everywhere. P.O. Box 1000 • 1 Hampstead Rd Danville, NH 03819-1000 Phone (603) 382-5553 Fax (603) 382-2133 www.danvillechenille.com FTYMG_100600_Danville.indd 1 EP 1 Hook: Salmon streamer hook, size 2. Thread: White 3/0 (210 denier). Tail: Pink rabbit strip and pearl Flashabou. Body: Pink Crystal Chenille. Hackle: Pink saddle hackle spiral-wrapped over the body. Eyes: Large white dumbbell eyes. 10 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m 4/14/10 10:55:54 AM ON FEBRUARY, 20, 2009, WASHINGTON State’s Hoh River was running heavy with glacial melt from the Olympic Mountains. Peter Harrison was making 70- to 90-footlong Spey casts close to where the river spills into the Pacific Ocean, using a fly he calls the EP 1. “This is my number one fly,” Peter says. “I use this fly in different sizes all over the world, and I have caught more fish on it than all the other flies put together. If I am at a loss as to what fly to use, this is the one I choose.” The river is perfect for the possible 100-foot Spey casts Peter enjoys making, and steelheaders fishing shrimp and egg clusters have landed sizable fresh-run steelhead. But for Peter, “fishing is more of a Zen thing. I love to walk the rivers where wild fish live, and on any day, I would rather be casting well than catching well.” Peter must have been casting very well that day because all of a sudden, he felt “something that I can only describe as a lightning bolt hitting my whole body.” Peter didn’t know it, but he was into what would become the largest rainbow trout ever officially recorded in North America. It took 45 minutes to land the steelhead, and both fish and angler fought to exhaustion. Peter’s wife, Shirley, noticed the fish was bleeding when he brought it into shallow water. Anglers who gathered to witness the event observed that this must be a record steelhead, and with it bleeding, Peter decided against releasing the fish. When weighed according to International Game Fish Association standards, the steelhead was 29 pounds 8 ounces and became the new 16-pound-test tippet record for rainbow trout, and is the largest FTYMG_1012WI_FlyTyingEnhance.indd North American rainbow trout of record. Steelhead vs. Rainbow Trout? Why, you might be wondering are there not separate categories for steelhead and rainbow trout? According to Jason Schratwieser, conservation director of the IGFA, “Although a rainbow might run to the ocean [or Great Lakes] to feed and grow, it cannot be distinguished genetically from its rainbow trout heritage. Upon its return to its spawning site, it is still a rainbow trout, science-wise.” As a result, the IGFA does not recognize steelhead as a separate species, and Peter Harrison’s fish is classified as a rainbow trout. Ted Rogowski wishes to thank Adrian Gray and Jason Schratwieser of the IGFA for their assistance in preparing this report. Ted is a regular contributor to Fly Tyer. We would never make forceps without making progress. 1 10/28/10 3:44:16 PM At StreamWorks, we like to think we put progress into every product we invent. Case in point, our new Forceps with Power Jaws. Perfect for any fishing occasion, our forceps feature the unique patented Power Jaws to provide the clamping power of pliers. So they’re ideal for flattening large barbs. Their combination ribbed and smooth jaw Power Jaws Crimp Down Barbs and Split Shot. U.S. Patent Number 7,114,279 surfaces hold large and small hooks securely. And their concealed needle Scissors: Hardened Stainless Steel Micro Serrated Edges More Than a Shrine to Good Fishing The International Game Fish Association maintains the most comprehensive records of large fish caught around the world, and it is also the home of the Fishing Hall of Fame and Museum. But the IGFA is about far more than just fishing; it is also a leading conservation organization promoting the health of our planet’s fisheries. For more information about the International Game Fish Association, go to www.igfa.org. If you’re ever in the Fort Lauderdale, Florida, area, be sure to visit the IGFA in nearby Dania Beach. is designed to remove paint and glue from the hook’s eye. It all adds up to an innovative, high-concept pair of forceps with Power Jaws. It all adds up to progress. Simply Smarter.™ 800-333-6304 For more StreamWorks innovation, visit www.StreamWorks.com Big Game 8.5 Forceps Mitten Scissors Forceps Micro 3.5” Scissor Forceps Large Loop Forceps W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 11 FTYMG_100600_StreamWorks.indd 1 4/14/10 3:46:18 PM FIRST WRAPS Flymen Fishing Company Wins Dealers’Choice FTYMG_1011FW_TheFlyShack.indd 1 10/29/10 Better. Faster. Revolutionary. FTYMG_1006SU_HMH.indd 1 8/2/10 Now’s the time to experience the Nor-Vise difference. AWARD T HE INTERNATIONAL FLY TACKLE Dealer show is the fly-fishing industry’s annual trade fair. Every year, fl y-shop owners, wholesalers, members 10:29:47 AM of the press, and others gather to test-cast the latest rods, spin the spools on the newest reels, and examine the waders, vests, lines, and almost every other new piece of equipment you’ll see this spring in your local retailer. Each manufacturer works hard to put his best foot forward, but some reach a little farther than the others. This magazine and its sister publications—American Angler and Gray’s Sporting Journal—sponsor the Dealers’ Choice Award. In this event, retailers and buyers vote on what new products they think will most appeal to their customers. This year, Flymen Fishing Company won the 11:25:03 AM Dealers’ Choice Award in fly tying for its new line of Fish Skull weighted heads. Martin Bawden, the owner of Flymen Fishing Company, is always developing new products to help us tie better fish-catching flies. “See for yourself. You really can tie better flies faster with a Nor-Vise!” Norm Norlander -- Creator of the Nor-Vise See a Nor-Vise in action! Visit us @ nor-vise.com The Norlander Company P.O. Box 926 Kelso, Washington 98626 Ph: 360-636-2525 FTYMG_1012WI_Norvise.indd 1 12 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m 10/28/10 4:13:45 PM FIRST WRAPS Form Follows Function Faruk Ekich spent hundreds of hours handcrafting what might be the world’s most beautiful and functional fly-tying vise. by David Klausmeyer P FTYMG_1012WI_WapsiStarterKit.indd 1 10/28/10 E ach fall, Wade Plantation abounds with the South’s most desirable pecans. In addition to our mammoth halves and in-shell pecans, we offer Double-Dipped Chocolate, Roasted & Salted and Honey-Toasted pecans by the pound, in gift bags and decorative tins. Available in early November, our golden pecans make the perfect gift for friends, families and even the boss. Order your Wade Plantation Pecans today, please use code MVP2. For A Free Catalog Or To Order Call 1-800-414-7941 Or Visit Wade Plantation at www.WadePecans.com FTYMG_1012WI_WadePecans_1_6.indd 1 ERHAPS YOU HAVEN’T HEARD of Faruk Ekich. He lives in Canada, and makes only infrequent forays into the United States to show off his latest fly-tying inventions. But when Faruk does show up, it’s always a treat to see what he has created. A few years ago, Faruk introduced the Ekich Ultimate Bobbin. I immediately rec3:42:44 PM ognized the ingenuity and care that went into the design of this spring-loaded tool. The Ultimate Bobbin is designed to automatically maintain proper thread tension while you tie. While the Ultimate Bobbin is a purely functional tool, Faruk’s new Dama Seal Vise is as much a work of art as it is a high-quality fly-tying tool. We’ll get to the functional parts of the vise in a moment, but for now, I want you to understand that the vise jaws are entirely handmade out of Damascus steel. We live in an age when it is claimed that many products are handmade, but in reality that often means they are assembled by hand. When Faruk says “handmade,” however, he really means it. “I start with a raw bar of Damascus steel, and cut out all the parts using a saw,” Faruk explained. “I then shape and smooth everything using files and finishing stones.” Examine the photos of the jaws and swept neck, and you’ll agree that Faruk’s vise is beautiful to behold. While I thought 14 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m 10/29/10 10:31:36 AM The sweeping neck and jaws of the Dama Seal Vise are made using simple hand tools out of Damascus steel. The Dama Seal Vise is surely a functional work of art. the curved neck was for artistic effect, Faruk explained that the shape is purely functional. (In fact, I think Faruk was a bit puzzled by my reaction to many of the features on his vise. Whenever I thought he designed a part for the shear artistic beauty of the curved lines, he would reply that each shape had a practical purpose.) “That’s where I rest the palm of my left hand,” he said about the curved neck. “I can easily apply pressure to the neck to turn the jaws to see other parts of the fly.” Faruk also pointed to the cleverly designed jaws. Study the close-up photo of the jaws. Even with this large salmon fly, Faruk can conceal the hook point and barb to prevent fraying the thread or other materials, yet the tip of the jaws are fine enough to accommodate the smallest dry fly hooks. And the low center of gravity of the jaws’ mass minimizes the tendency of the jaws to drift while tying. This last design feature sounds strange, but I, too, have tied on rotary vises that tended to turn under mere thread tension. Faruk’s design eliminates this problem. During our interview, Faruk talked for a long time about the nuances of thread, and how to use his bobbin with his vise. His years of experience as a mechanical engineer were obvious, and I almost gave We offer top quality • Tungsten beads • Danville thread • Skalka & Daiichi hooks • Fly tying material & tools • And much more! Visit us at www.wflies.com up thinking that there was anything artistic about his vise or if he even had an artistic bone in his body. At last I asked about the screw that opens and closes the vise jaws. “What’s with all the shapes,” I asked. “What do I do with these?” Call (978) 282-7669 or e-mail sales@wflies.com “Those represent the shapes of the wings of the three major insects: the mayfly, the stonefly, and the caddisfly. Don’t you see them?” Caught you, Mr. Ekich! No one could create such a beautifully sculpted object FTYMG_100600_WingaersheekFlies.indd 1 as your vise without having some sense of artistic flair. 4/15/10 4:30:11 PM I Could Go On, But . . . We talked for close to two hours, and I’ve had Faruk’s vise in my office for close to a month. (This is one tool that I will have to return to the owner; it will be back in Faruk’s hands before you read this article.) There is still much to tell, but space is short. I could, for instance, tell you about the special tempering of the completed jaws. Or I could tell you about how Faruk makes the head of the vise using nickel silver. But I suppose the question you most want anFTYMG_1009FA_RECComponents.indd swered is, how much does this vise cost? “I don’t have a clue what to charge for something like this,” Faruk said. “I haven’t even thought about that.” “Well,” I asked, “how long did it take you to make this vise?” “There again, I don’t know. I didn’t keep track of the hours. It might have taken hundreds of hours. It took a very long time. Most of it was completely made by hand. You don’t keep track of how long it takes to make something like this. You do it because you love the work, and you love the materials.” I don’t know if Faruk and I ever came to terms over what his vise represents: Is it a work of art, is it a purely utilitarian tool, or is it something in between? I suppose I have no choice but to bow to his wishes and acknowledge that first and foremost, the Dama Seal Vise is a fly-tying tool, and that form follows function. 1 7/27/10 12:18:32 PM To learn more about the Ekich Ultimate Bobbin, the Dama Seal Vise, and much more, go to Faruk’s Web site, www.automaticbobbin.com. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 15 FTYMG_100600_JStockard.indd 1 4/14/10 11:47:23 AM FIRST WRAPS WWW.RIPLIPSFISHING.COM Premium Quality Fly Tying Beads Tungsten Beads starting at $11.99 per 100 Brass Beads starting at $6.99 per 200 (large selection of colors and sizes) We Also Carry Quality Micro Slit Fly Boxes And More! LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD Quality Products at Amazing Prices! SPECIAL – FREE Shipping on your order – Use promo code “FLYTYER” | Offer expires 12/31/10 magazine Blueridge Furniture and Cabinetworks FTYMG_1012WI_RipLips.indd 1 10/28/10 3:55:58 PM Lifetime Handcrafted walnut fly tying and rod Achievement building bench 24 drawers to hold all of your tying materials Light background bench top to ease eye strain and for easy clean up Custom sizes and woods available Quality hardwood construction throughout Contact Steve at 1.828.674.2450 or at [email protected] FTYMG_1009FA_BlueridgeFurniture.indd 1 NEW 2011 AXXEL 8 Brown, Yellow, Pink, Rainbow/Black and Light Blue UNI-Mylar Holographic Orange 3 sizes For the best and widest selection of fly-tying thread, ask about UNI products at your favourite fly shop www.UNIPRODUCTS.com UNI Products J.G. Cote Inc. 1004 Principale P.O. Box 209 Ste-Melanie QC Canada J0K 3A0 FTYMG_1009FA_Uni.indd 1 FTYMG_1012WI_Uni Products.indd 1 Awards Cast Your Vote for the Fly Tier Who Is Making the Biggest Contributions to the Craft. I 7/20/10 10:52:22 AM Each year, we break new ground by launching new colours and new product lines. Micro Tinsel 6/0 Black, Brown and 3/0 Bronze Fly Tyer Telephone: 450-889-8054 Toll-free: 1-877-889-8054 Fax: 450-889-5887 E-mail: [email protected] N THE SPRING 2011 ISSUE OF this magazine, we will announce the first recipients of the annual Fly Tyer Lifetime Achievement Awards. Our editors are selecting three individuals who they believe have made major and lasting contributions to the art of fly tying. In addition to their selections, we will include a category called the “Readers’ Choice” Fly Tyer Lifetime Achievement Award. This is your opportunity to cast a vote for the tier who has made the biggest contributions in your fly tying. Consider these questions when selecting your favorite tier. Who developed the flies you tie and fish the most? Who do you think is designing the most important new patterns? Who is developing the newest tying methods that you use to make better flies? Does a recipient of a Fly Tyer Lifetime Achievement Award have to be a recognized tier? No! Perhaps you know of someone is creating new tools or materials that are revolutionizing the way we tie, and you believe that they deserve recognition for 16 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m 7/16/10 2:07:44 10/29/10 9:25:14 PM AM Want Better Flies? Get Better Tools! Get the their contributions to the craft. The Fly Tyer Lifetime Achievement Awards are not restricted to living tiers. • Dial-In Thread Tension Gary LaFontaine, Fran Betters, Carrie • Ceramic Thread Tube Stevens—and let’s not forget the father • Four models for fresh and saltwater fly tying • Now smoother than ever of American dry-fly fishing, Theodore Gordon!—will long be remembered for their patterns and tying techniques. PerAvailable at your fly tackle shop or contact Merco Products haps you would like to nominate one of Phone: (406) 328-MERC (6372) them for this special recognition. www.ritebobbin.com • e-mail: [email protected] You thought that selecting your favorite tier was going to be an easy task, didn’t you? So did we! But when we opened our FTYMG_100600_Merco.indd 1 4/14/10 1:06:54 PM fly boxes to see what patterns we tie and fish the most, and looked around our tying benches to see what materials and Scott Rods methods we use, we quickly realized that Echo Rods choosing the first recipients of the Fly Tyer Ross Reels Lifetime Achievement Award would reGalvan Reels quire serious thought and reflection. Lamson Reels Simms Waders Now it’s time for you to tell us who RIO Fly Line you think should receive a Fly Tyer LifeSA Mastery time Achievement Award. Send us his or her name, and include a short paragraph 1-866-359-7467 / www.yagersflies.com describing why you believe he or she should receive this prestigious recognition. Whose patterns do you tie? Whose books do you read? Whose materials or FTYMG_100600_Yager'sFlyShop.indd 1 4/20/10 12:16:19 PM tools do you use? Who has had the big- Point, Click, FISH! Meet 3.375” x 2.125” Celebrity Hooks Nominate your favorite tier to win the Fly Tyer Lifetime Achievement Award, and enter a chance to win a package of great tying materials supplied by Wapsi Fly. gest impact in determining what and how you tie? We can be reached by e-mail at [email protected], or you may write to Achievement Award, Fly Tyer magazine, P.O. Box 8, Steuben, ME 04680. After we tabulate all the nominations, three readers will be selected at random to receive a package of fly-tying materials provided by Wapsi Fly. (Each package of materials will have a retail value of $50.) So, who do you think should receive the Fly Tyer Lifetime Achievement Award? The 1100/1110 “Green Hornet” tied by Steve “Doc” Cohen Name: Wide Gape Dry Fly Hook in What Works Best: Standard and Favorite Water: Beaverkill River Notable Quote: “I look good, tie good patterns, work good, and thread tippets good. That's a lotta ‘goods’.” sizes 12-26. Down Eye and Straight Eye. in the New York Catskills. Claim to Fame: This is the best dry fly hook in the world with perfect cosmetics and dimensions, plus an oversized eye for easier threading of tippets on smaller hooks. traditional dry flies. Favorite Hackle: “I love to be wrapped in Whiting Farms Super Hackle.” Try me. Contact ASG for a sample pack. For this pattern recipe and others, go to “ASG News” on our website. Tel. (585)757-9958 M3480WFly 4.875 i n tTyer e r 24.625 0 1 0 |x17 www.anglersportgroup.com [email protected] by Jay “Fishy” Fullum Fishy’s Alderfly Use recycled packing foam to creative this convincing forgery. D MATERIALS LIST HOOK: 2X-long, fine-wire hook to match the size of your local alderflies. THREAD: Black 6/0 (140 denier). BODY: A narrow strip of thin packing foam. LEGS: A small, dark hackle. WING: Dark mottled turkey feather. MORE STUFF: Superglue and black fingernail polish. URING A RECENT TRIP WITH MY WIFE TO THE RAPID RIVER IN Maine, I successfully fished a single alderfly pattern during most of our days on that historic waterway. Actually, we started fishing other patterns that bear a resemblance to the alderfly—slender hoppers and small Muddlers—but we needed a fly that better matched the insects on the water. We didn’t have anything in our vests that really looked like alderflies. The body of the alderfly is almost antlike with a good-size head, and the strong wings fold over the body to resemble a large adult caddis. The body and wings are the two distinctive features of the alderfly. I couldn’t wait to sit down at the vise when we returned to camp. I easily found some usable wing and leg material, but my travel kit didn’t contain the body material I wanted. As I continued my search, I came across a piece of thin packing foam. Several seasons back, I learned that narrow strips of packing foam make great tapered bodies. Recycling is an excellent idea, particularly when an item that is normally thrown away is used to tie flies. I recently purchased a new camera. The manufacturer wrapped the camera in several layers of thin packing foam to protect it from damage. I saved a portion of the thin foam for cutting it into narrow strips with a metal straightedge and sharp hobby knife. Use a thin strip of packing foam to create the distinctive shape of the alderfly’s body and head. Wraps of black thread enhance the shape and strengthen the body. After completing the wraps, tie off the thread, and coat the body with superglue. Black fingernail polish establishes the correct color. After the polish dries, add several turns of hackle and a tentlike wing clipped from a turkey feather. Jay “Fishy” Fullum is the high priest of discovering unusual materials for tying fish-catching flies. He is also one of the most entertaining speakers ever to grace the podium at a fly-fishing club or show. When not tying flies, fishing, or sharing his great patterns with fellow anglers, Fishy is busy chasing his grandchildren around his yard in New York State. 18 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m Tying the Alderfly 1 2 3 Attach the thread and tie on a narrow strip of packing foam. Wind the foam strip forward, making a tapered body as you work. Tie off the strip and clip the excess. 5 Reattach the thread. Tie on the hackle and make a couple of wraps. Tie off the hackle and cut the excess. Trim the fibers along the top of the fly. After completing the hackle legs, wrap the thread to the center of the thorax. Wrap the thread around the entire body to strengthen it. Increase the tension on the thread in areas you wish to shape or make narrow. Next, tie off and snip the thread. Coat the body with superglue. 6 4 7 8 Paint the body with black fingernail polish. Cut the wing a bit long. Tie the wing to the center of the thorax. Tie off the thread with soft thread wraps so you don’t crush the body. Apply superglue to the thread wraps and butt end of the wing. Trim the wing to shape and length to complete the alderfly pattern. Here are bottom and top views of Fishy’s Alderfly. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 19 BEGINNER’S CORNER by Mike Hogue W WHEN I FIRST STARTED MAKING FLIES, there weren’t all the color step-by-step tying photographs we now have in the fly-fishing magazines. There also wasn’t the large number of fly-tying videos, flyfishing shows, and fly-tying demonstrations we all now enjoy. Many of the flyfishing books at that time contained only line drawings or simple black-and-white photos of flies. We had to use plenty of imagination and creativity to develop new patterns. Compounding the lack of information, at the time I lived in an area that had little local trout fishing, so almost all the patterns I tied were for bass and bluegills. Believe it or not, I tied those flies in the not-too-distant past. Naturally, when I found a new fly that looked like a real fish catcher, I got excited and quickly sat down to figure out how to tie or adapt it to my local fishing conditions. I relentlessly pored over the latest fly-fishing catalogs and magazines in search of the next hot pattern. I came across the Cricket Nymph in an article written by Dave Whitlock listThe Cricket Nymph is one of the most realistic panfish patterns ever created. All those pulsating rubber legs encourage fish into striking. The Cricket Nymph: A Realistic Panfish Fly Every angler has nearby water containing panfish. Use this lifelike fly to catch those feisty critters. ing his favorite panfish flies. I did some research but wasn’t able to locate a recipe for the Cricket Nymph in any of my pattern books, so I began experimenting to get my flies to match Dave’s drawings. After numerous attempts, I was finally able to construct a reasonable facsimile. After refining the pattern, the Cricket Nymph became one of the most effective panfish flies I’ve ever created. Tying the Cricket Nymph I tied the Cricket Nymph in a variety of sizes and colors. I fished these flies extensively during that summer and was surprised at the outstanding results. I caught large numbers of fish in ponds and lakes DAVE KLAUSMEYER 20 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m in my local waters. I also used this pattern in some of the large lakes near my father’s home in northwestern Arkansas. Several of the fish I caught easily tipped the onepound mark, proving that it was indeed a great pattern. I showed this fly to several tying friends, and they all reported similar good results. The Cricket Nymph is not an easy pattern to tie. The design may be one of theearliest attempts at realistic tying. As far as I know, it is still one of the only realistic panfish flies ever created. To make the original fly, I used materials from nontraditional sources. I have since adapted the pattern to use more common fly-tying materials, and I also reduced the number of tying steps. If you aren’t able to locate the specific materials I mention, feel free to substitute what ingredients you already have. I originally used strung black pearls for the eyes. I found these at craft and fabric stores, and my initial supply of these is nearly gone. Several companies make molded plastic or melted monofilament eyes, and these work great. You can melt monofilament and create the eyes yourself, but I generally find that I would rather spend my time tying flies than making eyes. I specifically avoid using lead or bead-chain eyes because they are too heavy to use in this pattern. For the back, I used a charcoal gray colored Swiss straw, but this is no longer made. You can use Hareline Dubbin’s Starting the Cricket Nymph 1 Start the thread on the hook. Tie on the eyes; do not crowd the head area or you will find it very difficult to complete the fly. 1 2 3 4 2 Wrap the thread to the end of the hook shank. Fold a two-inch-long piece of rubber-leg material around the thread. Tie the rubber legs to the hook to form the tail. 3 Tie on a piece of copper wire and a ¼-inch-wide strip of Medallion Sheeting. 4 Spin some dubbing on the thread. Cricket Nymph HOOK: 3X-long wet-fly hook such as a Mustad 9672, sizes 12 to 8. THREAD: Black 6/0 (70 denier). EYES: Plastic dumbbell. TAIL: Fine black rubber legs. BODY: Natural red fox squirrel or hare’s-ear dubbing. RIB: Fine copper wire. BACK AND WING CASE: Dark dun Medallion Sheeting. LEGS AND ANTENNAE: Fine black rubber legs. 1 Making the Body of the Cricket Nymph 1 2 Wrap the dubbing up the hook to form the body of the fly. Pull the Medallion Sheeting over the top of the body to form the back. 2 Spiral-wrap the wire up the fly to create the rib. Fold the Medallion Sheeting back and clip the excess wire. 3 3 Tie a two-inch-long piece of rubber legs across the top of the fly. Add a pinch of dubbing to the thread and wrap on the hook. Tie on another strip of Medallion Sheeting. 4 4 Clip the first strip of Medallion Sheeting to length to complete the first wing bud. Fold back the second strip of Medallion Sheeting. Spin more dubbing on the thread. Wrap the dubbing to the eyes. TYING STEPS BY MIKE HOGUE W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 21 BEGINNER’S CORNER montana fly fishing Guide Training school on the clark fork river at st. regis mT Twelve days of The mosT comprehensive schooling in fly fishing in the U.s. prepares you to be a professional fishing guide. our riverside facilities provide training classes, lodging, and meals in convenience and comfort. instructors are professional guides and outfitters with 51 years of experience in guiding and teaching people to fly fish. 1 2 3 4 To date, all of our graduates have found work. July 11-22, 2011 contact donn dale at clark fork river outfitters (406) 826-4220 • 1-800-745-3933 email Us for a Brochure at [email protected] or visit www.flyfishbigsky.com The Contented Angler “A Genuine Fly Shop” 10/29/10 FTYMG_1012WI_ClarkForkRiverOutfitters.indd 1 9:46:55 AM www.content-angler.com A specialty fly shop featuring: Clouser rods • Greys rods • Hardy Lamson reels • Custom dyed angora Local steelhead flies Completing the Cricket Nymph “TFO BVK Rods” New! Cashmere Goat Hair! 724-337-0437 147 Jefferson Avenue, Lower Burrell, PA. LOOKʼN GOOOD! FTYMG_1012WI_TheContentedAngler.indd 1 10/28/10 3:38:25 PM Tie two 1-inch-long pieces of rubber to the top of the shank to create more legs. 2 Fold and tie on a piece of rubber leg material to form the antennae. Quality tools for Quality flies www.griffinenterprisesinc.com FTYMG_1009FA_GriffinEnterprises.indd 1 1 Medallion Sheeting in dark dun, which is almost identical to the original Swiss straw. You can also use other materials such as Scud Back, Thin Skin, or Duraskin cut into narrow strips. You might want to experiment with some of the clear or marbled colors, although I prefer dark dun. The legs on the first flies were fine flat black rubber legs, although again, these seem almost impossible to locate. Today, I use fine round black rubber legs. Several companies offer some fine barred legs, and some also offer speckled silicone legs that you may wish to try. Whatever material you finally select, choose fine legs rather than medium. 22 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m 7/9/10 11:26:27 AM 3 Pull the Sheeting forward and tie off behind the hook eye. Make a thread wrap behind the eyes. Wrap a tiny pinch of dubbing around the eyes; be sure not to cover the eyes with dubbing. 4 Tie off and clip the thread. Clip the excess Medallion Sheeting. To improve the durability of the pattern, I originally coated the Swiss straw back of the fly with fingernail polish, but you can spray the strips with clear spray paint before tying them on. You can find clear spray paint in flat finishes at discount and home improvement stores. Don’t be afraid to simplify this pattern even further, and practice tying it a few times. Allow the duds to meet Mr. Razor Blade, and make a few more. Good luck and happy tying. Mike Hogue is owner of Badger Creek Fly Tying, a fly shop located in the Finger Lakes region of Upstate New York. Be sure to check out his Web site at www.eflytyer.com. MATERIALS NOTEBOOK Article & Photography by David Klausmeyer T THE FLY-TYING MATERIALS INDUSTRY is populated by small mom-and-pop businesses. I know of a handful of companies that boast 8 to 10 employees, and there is one that has a payroll of more than 50 people. The vast majority of fly-tying companies, however, are literally one-, two-, and three-person operations. Typically, the owner of the enterprise answers the phone, fills the orders, takes out the trash, scrubs the toilet—you get the drill. Don’t get me wrong: Just because a business is small doesn’t mean it cannot have a major impact on fly tying and fishing. The chance a company will play an important role in fly-fishing increases when it introduces innovative products that are of importance to large numbers of tiers and anglers. Take beadhead nymphs, for example. Fishing with bead-heads and similar flies swept our sport over the past decade. Ask to see the newest trout patterns in any fly shop, and it’s very likely that you’ll be handed a fistful of bead-heads. The Bead Revolution Continues Beadhead nymphs took fly-fishing by storm a few years ago. As the Flymen Fishing Company is demonstrating, fly-tying beads should be more than just pieces of buckshot with holes in the middle. For the most part, however, tiers have been limited in their creativity by the selection of available beads. Do you remember the saying attributed to Henry Ford about buying one of his cars? “You can have it in any color just as long as it’s black.” Well, the color selection in fly-tying beads hasn’t been much greater: gold, copper, silver, dark brass, and black, Beadhead nymphs are among our most popular patterns. No trout could resist these flies, tied using Nymph Head beads. PHOTOS BY DAVE KLAUSMEYER W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 23 as well as painted chartreuse and orange. And most fly shops don’t even carry all these colors. Then along came a little business called Flymen Fishing Company, spouting an uppity attitude that fly-tying beads should be more than just pieces of buckshot with holes in the middle. This new company believes fly-tying beads should MATERIALS NOTEBOOK come in a broad selection of colors, including colors that match the insects we are trying to imitate with our flies. And it believes beads should even have small eyes, just like real insects. Flymen Fishing Company is the just the sort of small company that might play a major role in the way we tie some of our most popular trout flies. Birth of a Business I had an opportunity to talk with Flymen Fishing Company owner Martin Bawden about the brief history of his company and its products. With fellows like Martin around, you and I will never be short of new materials to use or fresh patterns to tie. “I launched the Flymen Fishing Company in 2007 because I had the simple idea that I wanted to improve fly-tying beads. I’d been tying and fishing a lot of beadhead nymphs, and it struck me that I could improve the overall profile and performance of flies by simply adding some realistic 3-D nymph eyes to the beads. That’s how I came up with the original Nymph Head tungsten bead. These beads actually have about twenty percent more tungsten, so the flies are also heavier and sink faster.” Most tiers are familiar with gold, copper, and black beads, but Nymph Heads come in a wide variety of colors, don’t they? “Yes, they do. We figured out how to anodize the beads in different colors that previously were never available to fly tiers.” A Nymph Head bead features small eyes on each side. You may leave these plain, but I know some fastidious tiers will dab drops of paint or nail polish on these bumps to give their flies an added sense of realism. Hey, stoneflies and some mayflies have obvious eyes, so why shouldn’t your imitations? Nymph Head beads come in both brass and heavier tungsten. Marten suggested that if you use only tungsten Nymph Heads, and add some additional wire to the hook shanks before tying your flies, the small eyes indicate that these are Colorado’s Al Ritt made these streamers using Fish Skulls. Tying a fly with a Fish Skull is easy. First, make the streamer in the normal manner, but do not wrap a finished head; instead, just tie off and clip the thread. Apply a drop of superglue in the head area of the fly, and slip the Fish Skull on over the hook eye. Restart the thread behind the hook eye. Wrap a small dam of thread between the front of the Fish Skull and the hook eye. Next, whip-finish and clip. How simple is that? 24 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m your extra-heavy patterns for fishing really deep, fast water. That’s an excellent idea for tiers who make flies to fish different levels of the water column. It’s about Innovation Marten Bawden is constantly thinking about new ways to tie flies. He’s a very inventive fellow, and believes that he’ll be successful if he stays focused and continues seeking out new products. “As a small but growing company,” Marten said, “it is important to stay focused and strive to be the best in your category. Therefore, looking ahead, our focus is to design best-of-breed new fly-tying products and flies for the weighted-fly category: nymphs and streamers.” Fish Skulls are an obvious example of your creativity. Why did you develop them? “I wanted to design a product that would make it quick and easy to tie a weighted streamer. It had to be an exciting alternative to using cones or dumbbells, and, of course, the finished flies had to catch fish. “It took almost two years to design and bring Fish Skulls to market. We have built a lot of functionality into the product that Yes, you can tie small beadhead nymphs. The largest fly here was made on about a size 14 hook. Flymen Fishing Company packaging is easy to spot in the fly shop. With respect to the beads, the Heavy Metal beads are tungsten; the Fly Color beads are brass. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 25 provides a lot of flexibility to create different styles of flies using a wide range of materials. For example, we built in a keel that helps balance the fly so you can even tie a pattern with the hook point on top. We also put slots on the top and bottom of each Fish Skull to give the other materials freedom of movement and allow for a taller profile. And finally, we designed Fish Skulls to use what we call a ‘frontfitting’ tying technique to make it quick and easy to make a neat-looking fly.” You recently won an award for Fish Skulls, didn’t you? “Yes, we exhibited at the 2010 International Fly Tackle Dealer Show, and Fish Skulls were awarded the Dealers’ Choice Award for the fly-tying products category. We are very grateful for the support and validation shown by the retailers and buyers at the show.” I used to think that fly-tying beads were hardly more than round pieces of metal with holes in the middle, but not anymore. I tie a lot of beadhead nymphs—you probably do, too—and Nymph Heads look great on my flies. I especially like the baetis green, caddis green, mayfly brown, and shrimp pink Nymph Heads. And because Nymph Heads are anodized—not painted—the finish is very durable. I am also experimenting with Fish Skulls. The copper Fish Skulls are ideal for making the heads on minnow imitations. These flies are working well for catching trout, salmon, and smallmouth bass. Will new fly-tying beads or a way to weight streamers shake up the world? Of course not. But, for those of us who have a passion for tying, Nymph Heads, Fish Skulls, and the other products from Flymen Fishing Company will make some waves. For more information about Flymen Fishing Company, go to www.flymenfishingcompany .org. There you will find product information, tying tutorials, and a whole lot more. Al Ritt, who lives in Colorado, was nice enough to send some flies made with Fish Skulls. Al is currently a fly-fishing guide operating in Rocky Mountain National Park and several private waters in Northern Colorado. To contact Al, go to www.alrittflies.com.. The male hawthorn fly comes out about a week before the females. This insect is fairly common in many parts of the world. 26 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m A Better Black Gnat Grasshoppers and crickets are the glamour terrestrials, but don’t overlook all those black flies hovering near the riverbank. The authors’ Hawthorn Fly works wherever trout feed on land-born insects. Article and Photography by Igor and Nadica Stancev W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 27 1 The hawthorn fl y is a real insect that comes out in late April and early May. At that time of year the trout are exhausted from winter’s lack of food and easily start feeding on hawthorn flies. Tying the Hawthorn Fly 1 2 3 4 5 6 Start the thread near the hook bend. Tie on a segment clipped from a black rooster tail feather. Wrap the feather fibers around the thread in a clockwise direction. The thread will reinforce the fibers and the completed body. 4 Wrap the fibers and thread two-thirds of the way up the hook shank. Tie off and clip the excess fibers. Tie the wings splayed over the top of the body. Tie on a 3- to 4-millimeter-wide strip of black foam at the base of the wings. Wrap a small dab of red dubbing on the hook; cover no more than one-half of the thorax with the dubbing. (If you wish to add the optional long, rear legs, tie them on in front of the red dubbing.) Make a dubbing loop for use in the next step. 7 8 9 10 11 12 Fill the loop with mink fur. Note that the stiff guard hairs remain longer than the soft underfur, just as it comes off the skin. This is important to tying the fly! Spin the loop closed. The easiest method is to use a dubbing twister. Be careful not to twist it too tight or you might break the fine thread. 7 Wrap the dubbing to complete the thorax of the fly. Brush the fibers toward the rear of the fly between wraps. Brush the mink fur down the sides of the fly. Pull the foam over the top of the fly to form the back of the thorax. Tie the final knot under the foam. Cut the foam 2 millimeters from the hook eye to create the bulbous head of the fly. Here’s the finished fly from another angle. The authors could have added long rear legs, but the fish would not have noticed. This fly will do a splendid job catching any trout that turns its attention to terrestrials. Hawthorn Fly HOOK: Short-shank Tiemco TMC531, size 14 or 12. THREAD: Black 8/0 (70 denier). BODY: Black tail cock feather or pheasant tail dyed black. WINGS: Dark dun hackle tips or medium dun cul de canard. THORAX: Scarlet-red dry fly dubbing. THORAX COVER: Black foam. LEGS: Black mink fur. HEAD AND EYES: Black foam. 10 28 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m 2 3 5 6 8 9 11 12 W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 29 (Above) Note the small head of this female hawthorn fly. Male or female, the fish don’t care: they eagerly feed on hawthorn flies—real and imitations—when they land on the water. (Right) What trout could resist smacking this hapless hawthorn fly floating on the surface of the water? 30 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m The hairy, black hawthorn fly is a terrestrial insect. It belongs to the order Diptera, the family Bibionidae, and the genus Bibio. The species name is Bibio marci. It is distributed all over Europe, the British Isles, and Asia. So, why should North American fly tiers care? First, our imitation of the hawthorn fly is fun to make, and second, this pattern works wherever trout feed on terrestrials. Hawthorn Facts Hawthorn larvae develop in the ground, most often at the edges of woodlands and fields, and also near rivers and lakes—all places with enough moisture. The larvae feed on the roots of grasses, as well as on decaying plants and often in compost heaps. The name “hawthorn” comes from the fact that the adults usually emerge around St. Mark’s Day, April 25, the time when hawthorn trees bloom. These flies are thought to play an important role in pollinating fruit trees and other plants. The males are more numerous and appear about one week before the females. Male hawthorn flies are easily distinguished by their huge, bulbous eyes. During flight, hawthorn flies orient toward the wind, and their rear pair of long legs dangle lower than their abdomens. The heather fly (Bibio pomonae) is another member of the Bibio genus that is important to fly fishermen. The main difference between the hawthorn and heather fly is that the latter comes out during August and has bright red legs. The term black gnat is used to describe many species of black terrestrial insects that appear near the water. The spring and autumn flies are very similar and treated like one insect in the fly-fishing sense. They rest in the bushes near the water. If the day is sunny and windy, it doesn’t matter whether or not they swarm: the wind will drive them onto the surface of the water, and the fish will feed on them. In some places, the hawthorn fly is the first terrestrial near the water, and the flights of this insect can cause a mass rising of trout. During these times, fishing a black imitation in the correct size will give you unforgettable fishing. A Tested Pattern We’ve tied our imitation of the hawthorn fly since the late 1980s. Anglers all over the world have tested it, and they report excellent results. We make the abdomen using a section of fibers clipped from the tail feather of a black rooster. The material creates a very realistic appearance when wrapped on the hook, but you can achieve the same results using a section taken from a black peacock wing feather. Fibers from a pheasant tail feather are also good for this purpose; the long, individual strands have tiny fibers on their edges that imitate the hairy appearance of the real insect, but they must be dyed black. Two dark dun cock hackle tips represent the wings, but you may also use hen hackles. Tie the wings splayed over the body to mimic a terrestrial that has crashed onto the water. The legs, which are an important part of the fly, are mink fur dyed black. The stiff guard hairs are long and stand out straight from the thorax, while the shorter and softer underfur creates a convincing thorax silhouette. A dot of scarlet-red dubbing on the bottom of the thorax acts as an attractor. Cover the thorax using black foam; the best foam is soft with many air bubbles in its structure. When fishing, avoid pressing the foam and compressing the precious air bubbles; these help keep the fly on the surface. You can tie on a pair of dangling rear legs using peacock herl, but these are optional. There are two ways to make knees in the legs. First, tie simple knots in the herl before mounting the legs. Second, after tying on pieces of straight herl, carefully bend joints in the legs using tweezers heated over a flame. Enjoy making our version of the hawthorn fly. It’s an interesting fly-tying exercise, and it really catches fish! Igor and Danica Stancev are two of the leading fly tiers who specialize in making realistic imitations. They have won numerous awards with their flies. The Stancevs live in Macedonia. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 31 A Bibio hortulanus female has a red thorax and abdomen (the male has black). It’s not a hawthorn fly but has a similar silhouette and is one of many streamside insects that draw the attention of trout. Steelhead THE NUCLEAR OPTION FOR Fly-fishing’s most renowned author shares his thoughts about puberty, Tibetan prayer flags, and what it’s like tying flies for fish that aren’t eating, and tells us why they all go together. (Really!) by John Gierach DRIPPING STEELIE, BY DEREK DEYOUNG 32 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 33 COAL CAR Hook: Your favorite brand of salmon streamer hook, size 4. Thread: Black 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Black squirrel tail hair. Body: Hot orange floss and black chenille. Rib: Round silver tinsel. Wing: Black squirrel tail hair. Hackle: Black. POPSICLE Hook: Your favorite brand of salmon streamer hook, size 1/0. Thread: Red 6/0 (140 denier). Body: Orange, hot pink, and purple marabou wrapped on the hook shank. Flash: Copper and fuchsia Flashabou. WINTER EXPRESSION SPEY FLY Hook: Long-shank salmon streamer or Spey hook, size 1.5. Thread: Black 6/0 (140 denier). Body: Red floss and black dubbing. Rib: Flat silver tinsel. Hackle: Purple marabou and guinea. Wing: Turkey or goose shoulder. FLY PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVE KLAUSMEYER 34 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m The other day I showed some steelhead flies I’d tied and that I was cautiously proud of to a friend from Washington State. He said, “These are no good.” Susan, the sometimes sweetly naïve woman I live with, gave me a knowing look. She now understands that this kind of gruff irony is what passes as a compliment among some men, although she may never understand why. These were the kind of fancy patterns that some steelheaders swear by and others say are pretty enough to look at, but aren’t necessary. There were some Spey variations of Dan Callahan’s original Green Butt Skunk and some Skagit Mists, a Dec Hogan pattern adapted for steelhead from a century-old Atlantic salmon fly called a WhiteWinged Akroyd. Every tier will understand what I mean by “cautiously proud.” These were complicated patterns complete with tags, tails, butts, joints, mixed blue-eared pheasant and gadwall hackle, goose shoulder wings, and jungle cock sides. I’d worked slowly and carefully, had gotten all the parts in the right places and proper proportions, and had managed not to crowd the heads, all of which amounts to a good start. The flies looked okay and would fish well enough, but in terms of the sheer elegance that’s achieved by some tiers, they were still a few degrees off plumb. The very best of these classic-style steelhead patterns weren’t just beautiful; they also seemed thoughtlessly organic, as if the entire flies just unfolded from their small, lacquered heads the way flowers sprout from buds. STUBBY STONE Hook: Curved-shank pupa hook, size 8. Head: Bronze tungsten bead. Thread: Black 6/0 (140 denier). Tails: Tan biots. Abdomen: Brown wet-fly dubbing. Back: Pearl Mylar. Rib: Black wire. Thorax: Peacock herl. Wing case: Black Thin Skin. Legs and antennae: Brown Centipede Legs. Flies for Fish That Don’t Eat I tied flies for trout for over 30 years before I started fooling around with steelhead patterns, and the idea of tying flies for fish that weren’t eating stumped me at first. I began with what must be the common misconception that steelhead patterns have something to do with the psychology of fish that aren’t hungry. This struck me as the kind of unsolvable puzzle that, like religion, causes some to settle on a comforting homeliness and turns others into flaming wing nuts, each according to their own nature. That would explain why one experienced steelheader carries elegant, feather-winged wet flies dripping with golden pheasant, ostrich, and jungle cock, and the next has a box full of unadorned marabou powder puffs. The natural exuberance of fly tiers explains why there are so many patterns to choose from, including those brainstorms a guide friend calls “three-beer flies.” If the tier happens to have the TV on in the background at the moment of creation, one of these things can end up looking like the radioactive octopus from a late-night horror movie. In fact, there’s a convincing argument in steelheading that it’s all about presentation, and that beyond the basic HOT BUTT PRAWN Hook: Red size 2 bait hook connected to a size 2 salmon streamer hook. Clip the point from the salmon hook. Connect the bait hook to the salmon hook using a looped piece of heavy wire leader material. Thread: Black 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Black bucktail. Butt: Black Estaz and a chartreuse bead. Body: Black Estaz. Body hackle: Blue. Hackle: Pieces of black ostrich herl and blue marabou. Wing: Black hen hackle. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 35 FERRY CANYON Hook: Your favorite brand of salmon streamer hook, size 2. Thread: Black 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Purple hackle fibers. Butt: Hot pink yarn. Body: Purple chenille. Rib: Round silver tinsel. Hackle: Purple. Wing: Red, black, and pearl Krystal Flash, and purple marabou. JOE’S PRAWN Hook: Your favorite brand of salmon streamer hook, size 1/0. Thread: Orange 6/0 (140 denier). Tag: Flat gold tinsel. Tail: Orange bucktail, pearl Krystal Flash, and a ring-necked pheasant body feather. Eyes: Large plastic dumbbell. Body: Orange SLF dubbing. Back: Ring-necked pheasant body feathers. Hackle: Ring-necked pheasant body feather. considerations of large versus small, or bright versus dark, the exact pattern hardly matters. This leads some tiers to say that since pattern doesn’t matter, you might as well just lash some rabbit fur to a hook and be done with it. Others conclude, with equal conviction, that since pattern doesn’t matter, you might as well get a pile of exotic feathers and knock yourself out. It comes down to personality. To a certain kind of tier, letting go of any amount of beauty in the interest of practicality is agonizing, while to another, practicality is beauty. I’ve learned to decisively keep a foot in each camp based on a comment by novelist and steelhead fisherman Thomas McGuane. He agreed that it probably is all about presentation, but added, “The trouble is, you can’t properly present something you don’t believe in.” So maybe the right fly is the one that not only fools a fish every now and then, but also fools the fisherman into keeping it in the water long enough for that to happen— if not actually believing in every cast and swing, then at least not becoming despondent. Think of it as the angling equivalent of the placebo effect. My friend Scott Sadil said, “If you’re changing flies while steelheading, you’re in a slump.” Someone else once said, “The most important thing in steelhead fishing is confidence—I think.” This business of presentation versus pattern is the longest running argument in fly tying. It will never be settled, because for every day when it seems to be all about presentation, there’s another day when it seems to be all about presentation of the right fly. Of course, trout fishing has the advantage of being somewhat empirical. All things being equal, a trout fly that’s drifted properly through the right water for an hour without a strike begins to look like the wrong fly for that time and place. Steelheading is more faith-based. A steelhead fly that you’ve fished for three days without a pull could still turn out to be the right one. And then there’s the idea of the comeback fly: one of the most arcane concepts in steelheading. This is the term of art for the fly you change to when a fish has swirled at or halfheartedly bumped the fly you’re fishing, indicating that he might be willing to play, but not with that pattern. For most, the comeback fly is something smaller, darker and sparser than whatever they were fishing—sometimes so sparse, it’s just a little wisp of a thing that looks like it was left unfinished. For some fishermen, the comeback fly is always different, determined by whatever they were fishing that brought up the player in the first place; for others it’s a specific pattern, maybe tied in a couple of sizes to reflect conditions. I once asked a steelheader in Oregon, “If your comeback fly is so effective, why not just fish it all the time?” He explained that the bigger, flashier fly would attract the attention of more fish and even hook some of them, while the comeback fly was reserved for the tough customers. “The steak and potatoes gets him in the door,” he said, “but it’s the little piece of cheesecake that closes the deal.” Only Amateurs Carry a Lot of Flies Since I started steelheading, I’ve managed to fill three boxes 36 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m with flies: an odd assortment of this and that pattern as I became aware of them through guides and friends. I’ve fished some of them and have actually caught steelhead on a precious few. (Among the ones that worked are some patterns I didn’t especially like at first, but then, nothing makes a goofy fly start to look beautiful like catching a fish on it.) I’ve also picked up a little knowledge of the sport along the way, including the inescapable fact that three boxes crammed with steelhead flies is the mark of an amateur. Most of the experienced steelheaders I’ve met carry a single, small box containing what seems like a meager selection of flies. There was a young guide on the Deschutes who had a few neat rows of flawlessly tied classic wets, any one of which could have been framed and hung convincingly on the wall. When I complimented him on his tying, he shrugged and said he didn’t know if it made a difference or not, but, “There’s just something about showing the fish your best effort.” There was also a well-known steelheader on the North Umpqua who, on that particular day, had exactly seven flies in his box, all wildly mismatched and all looking like they’d been retrieved from bankside branches or submerged rocks, as I suspect they had. Granted, these guys’ boxes might have looked different in another season with changes in water temperature, depth, and clarity (steelhead flies tend to get bigger and darker as the rivers do the same) but the message was still clear: Get some flies you like, stay faithful to them, and work on your casting. One of the things that drew me to the elaborate, fulldress steelhead patterns is their contrast with the drab, practical trout flies I usually tie. Even some of the simplest steelhead hair-wings have a few fussy little architectural touches because anadromous fish are thought to be suckers for visual complexity. And if a little bit of gingerbread works, why not go the full distance with flying buttresses and blind arches? This is sometimes referred to as the Fallacy of Wishful Thinking, but knowing what it’s called doesn’t mean you can’t fall victim to it. I’ve always liked flies that are plain and workmanlike, but it seems encoded in the human condition that as soon as you achieve simplicity in one area of life, you’re likely to go all Victorian in another. This is the impulse that causes some tiers to build those lovely and possibly pointless full-dress Atlantic salmon flies: the ones that will see the light of day only from a shadowbox frame and that will never, ever get wet. I tried my hand at some of these once as an exercise in something or other, but didn’t get very far. I tended to overdress the flies—forgetting back at the tag, tail, and butt that there were seven more operations to go before I started on the wing. And then my married wings themselves—not unlike some of my friends—wouldn’t stay married for reasons that were never clear. It’s possible that I just wasn’t a good enough tier, but I think the real reason was a lack of immediacy. I only manage to freeload myself into decent Atlantic salmon fishing once a decade on average, and when I do go, I use the GREEN BUTT SKUNK Hook: Your favorite brand of salmon streamer hook, size 2. Thread: Black 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Red hackle fibers. Butt: Red wool yarn. Body: Black wool yarn. Rib: Round silver tinsel. Hackle: Black. Wing: Pearl Krystal Flash and white calftail. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 37 STEELHEAD SKATER Hook: Heavy-wire wet-fly hook, size 6. Thread: Orange 6/0 (140 denier). Body: Orange Crystal Braid or Crystal Chenille. Tail, back, sides, and wing: Elk hair. SANDY CANDY TUBE FLY Tube: 1-inch-long plastic tube. Thread: Orange 6/0 (140 denier). Body: Salmon pink marabou. Flash: Pearl Flashabou. simpler, hair-winged flies that are now standard. In other words, when there isn’t a fish somewhere in the deal, I lose interest. I overdressed my steelhead flies at first, too, even though I knew they were supposed to be sparse. (A friend said of my first batch, “They’re nice enough, but don’t quit your day job.”) Even the simplest hair-wing, like a Purple Peril, can get clunky in the wrong hands and the potential gets greater as patterns get more complex. When you sit down to tie something like a Skagit Mist, the question becomes, how do you tie a fly with 11 separate materials and 14 distinct anatomical parts that still has the requisite air and light that a painter would call “negative space”? Turns out you do it with a sharp eye toward proportion and a sense that everything needs room to breathe. Aside from the aesthetic prescription, there are also some engineering considerations. For instance, the long, dangly heron substitute hackle on a Spey pattern should be tied sparely because steelhead are said to like it that way, but also because too much hackle underneath counterbalanced only by that skinny, low-set wing on top can cause the fly to roll on its side in the current, ruining the silhouette. Which begs the question: Do steelhead really prefer sparsely tied Spey flies, or are the sparsely tied flies the only ones they get a decent look at? And don’t even get me started on hooks. Even if you stick with the traditional japanned black, up-eye salmon hooks, there are too many choices. I lean toward the Alec Jackson Spey hook because it holds well, makes a graceful fly, and its medium wire nicely splits the difference. But then there are days when you want a fly to wake or skate and others days when you want it to all but plow gravel on the swing. Naturally, there’s a selection of specialized hooks for each purpose, and they can cost in the neighborhood of a dollar each. On Puberty, Going Nuclear, and Tibetan Prayer Flags It took me the better part of three decades to pare my core trout fly selection down to a generous handful of mostly simple, straightforward patterns. I’m thinking that having learned that lesson once, it won’t take me nearly so long with steelhead flies. On the other hand, there are STREAM THING Hook: Regular wet-fly or tube hook, size 2. Tail: Purple marabou. Wing: Black rabbit Zonker strip. Throat: Purple marabou. Flash: Purple Krystal Flash. Weight: Medium dumbbell. Note: The hook eye is a regular salmon hook cut very short; leave just enough shank to tie on the dumbbell, wing, and throat. Connect the hook to the eye using a piece of heavy braided fishing line. To keep the Zonker strip from fouling, thread the line through a small hole punched in the strip. A Baker’s Dozen of the Best from Umpqua Feather Merchants Umpqua Feather Merchants is the world’s largest commercial fly-tying company; you’ll find its patterns in hundreds of fly shops and catalogs. The folks at Umpqua were nice enough to supply us with 13 of their best-selling steelhead patterns. These flies include a couple of classics, several new patterns, a tube fly, and a waking dry fly. You will find many of these patterns in the fly boxes of the most knowledgeable steelhead anglers. 38 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m certain phases you have to go through—like puberty—so you might as well get on with it. Once you tumble for the fancy steelhead flies in the picture books, you’re kind of sunk. Even as you tell yourself you can just admire them from afar like works of art, you know in your heart that you’ll eventually have to tie some and fish them as part of your ongoing education. If you’re like me, you’ll envy those who can tie on a steelhead fly with the offhanded confidence of a DEA agent slapping a fresh clip into his 9 millimeter while you dither over the black one, the purple one, or that pretty little orange one. You’ll develop your own preferences eventually, but you also have your pride as a tier and don’t want to limit yourself to flies you’re not afraid to tie. There’s also the single drawback to being a fly tier, which is that you like to tie flies and can find it hard to stop. I fish enough to burn through my favorite trout patterns at a pretty good clip, but unless you’re a complete klutz—and we all have our moments—you just don’t lose a lot of steelhead flies, so they can begin to pile up. Eventually you may have to reconcile the flies you want to tie with the ones you actually need to catch fish. In an attempt to imitate those who know what they’re doing (not a bad fishing strategy, by the way), I now limit myself to a single fly box on the river. It’s a big old Wheatley salmon box with a swing leaf and 110 clips, but it’s still just the one box—and no one has to know how many flies I have stashed in my luggage. It’s become my secret ambition to someday design a steelhead fly that’s so effective, I can call it the Nuclear Option, but so far I’ve mostly stuck with established patterns. There’s no science that I can see behind steelhead flies— or if there is, it’s the kind of science that would have felt at home in the Dark Ages—but I’m hoping there’s a kind of alchemy in operation that you don’t have to understand in order to copy. It’s also easier this way. When you start trying to invent patterns, it’s possible to spend a pleasant evening tying steelhead flies, only to wake up screaming in the middle of the night at the thought that you should have veiled your blue-eared pheasant hackle with orange dyed mallard instead of natural. Confidence in your fly pattern really is important in steelheading, and you take confidence where you find it. If a guide or local hotshot points at a fly in your box and says, “Try that,” or, better yet, gives you a fly of his own, you’d be a fool not to fish it. Failing that, you glance at the river, open your fly box, and wait for inspiration. The right fly is like a Tibetan prayer flag to those of us who are not exactly practicing Buddhists: It may or may not bring good fortune as promised, but it can’t hurt and it looks real pretty. ARTICULATED LEECH Hook: Two salmon streamer hooks, size 2. Thread: Black 3/0 (210 denier). Tail: Black marabou. Wing: Black marabou and black Krystal Flash. Eyes: Silver bead-chain. Note: Connect the hooks using a loop of heavy monofilament or your favorite method for creating an articulated streamer. Cut the bend and point off the front hook. John Gierach is our sport’s best-selling author. It seems almost trivial to mention his widely cherished books—Trout Bum; Sex, Death, and Fly Fishing; Good Flies; Fishing Bamboo; and the rest—so I won’t. John also was one of this magazine’s first contributors way back in the 1970s. It’s great having him back. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 39 EGG-SUCKING CRYSTAL LEECH Hook: 4X- or 6X-long streamer hook, size 2. Thread: Purple 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Purple marabou and pearl Krystal Flash. Body: Crystal Chenille. Hackle: Purple saddle hackle. Head: Pink chenille. You’ve heard the names: French nymphing, Spanish nymphing, Polish nymphing, and Czech nymphing. These fishing techniques swept Europe, and knowledgeable North American anglers embraced them and started catching more fish. When hearing the term European nymphing, some American fly fishermen still reply: “Oh, that’s just high-sticking.” Wrong! European nymphfishing methods require more than just holding the rod tip high in the air. In fact, during some points of the presentation, you do not hold the “stick” high at all. Don’t get caught up in the names associated with European nymphing techniques. Although many of these methods have their origins in specific countries, it is important to recognize that many of the techniques overlap. It is more accurate and easy to understand Euro-nymphing if you group the wide variety of methods into two larger categories: short-line and long-line nymphing. France, Spain, Poland, and Czechoslovakia are simply the countries of origin for these methods. The strengths of these techniques really have nothing to do with their names or their countries of origin, but in something they all have in common: vastly improved strike detection. Czech Nymphs and Short-Line Fishing Techniques I have been long-line nymphing with strike indicators for more than a decade with much success. I was hesitant to believe the hype surrounding many of the European nymphing techniques, but I decided to give them a try. My first experience with Czech-style nymphing was on my home stream, the South Branch of the Raritan River. I know the Raritan well, which is an advantage when trying any new fishing technique. After many conversations with angling authority Davy Wotton regarding this method, I was ready to try my hand at Czech nymphing. Armed with an array of weighted flies, I headed to the stream. It was a crisp March morning, and the South Branch had fished well all winter. There were many holdover fish, plus 2,000 recently stocked brook trout: all good signs. I started fishing with three flies: a large cased-caddis pattern as an anchor fly, and a pink and an olive caddis larva as droppers. I started fishing behind a gentleman who caught a few trout out of a popular spot. I stepped into the water and cast my flies, and to my surprise, I was into fish before he could leave the pool. I released my first trout, and on the next cast, I was quickly into another. This same scenario played out throughout the day. I caught many trout: some came out of places that I had never fished before because the spots were not conducive to long-line indicator fishing. Although the Czech-nymphing technique took time to learn, it is one of the most productive means of fishing I know. Along with fishing water that I used to pass up, I catch twice as many trout from my old favorite pools and runs. Short-line Euro-nymphing was invented primarily for fishing the high-gradient freestone streams of Eastern Europe. The technique requires using a short leader with very little line. This approach allows you to detect more strikes and increase your catch rate. As soon as a fish hits a fly, you can feel and see the energy travel through the short line. Czech nymphing requires using weighted flies with no split shot added to the leader. The built-in weight enables the flies to get to the bottom quickly and efficiently. A Czechnymph leader, unlike a conventional nymphing leader, is very simple and often contains three sections or fewer. The presentation is also quite simple. Cast the flies anywhere from 20 to 40 degrees up and slightly across stream. Keep the rod tip high, and make sure that the rod stays slightly ahead of the flies. The leader should have a slight arc or bow; it should not be absolutely tight to the flies. If the line is too taut, then the flies are too heavy for the run you are fishing and you should substitute lighter patterns. The flies may drift slightly below your position in the stream, but not more than 5 or 10 feet; this method is intended for fishing short drifts. Short drifts actually allow for better coverage of a stream. Divide the water into grids, and fish your flies through each grid. It’s okay if some casts overlap because this presents the flies to the same fish at different angles. Don’t neglect the end of the presentation: you’ll catch many fish at the very last moment. Lower the rod tip as the flies drift past, and at the end of the drift, give the rod a slight hook-set or flick of the wrist. This motion does two things. First, the gentle lift might represent an insect swimming to the surface and excite a trout into striking. At other times, a trout might be drifting backwards with the flies and sip in a fly undetected; this sudden hook-set will 40 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m TOSH BROW N Euro-Nymphing Demystified Tie the flies and learn the techniques that are revolutionizing the way we use nymphs to catch trout. by Aaron Jasper W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 41 Learn More about Euro-Nymphing WANT TO LEARN EVEN MORE ABOUT CZECH, FRENCH, AND SPANISH nymph-fishing techniques? Would you like to see someone actually use these methods to catch fish? And would you like to see how to tie the secret flies the master anglers are using to win fishing competitions around the globe? These DVDs will tell you everything you need to know to make and fish the new generation of European nymphs. Essential Skills with Oliver Edwards: Czech Nymphing/Upstream Nymphing and North Country Spiders This DVD is part of the Essential Skills series featuring Fly Tyer contributor Oliver Edwards. This installment includes two of Oliver’s VHS videos on one disc. In addition to learning how to tie and fish English North Country spiders, a subject Oliver has written about in the pages of this magazine, he also explains the flies and fishing techniques that make Czech nymphing so deadly. Watch this DVD, and you will catch more fish. European Nymphing with Jack Dennis and Vladi Discover European nymphs and fishing techniques directly from the master, Vladi Trzebunia. Vladi is a world fly-fishing champion and the innovator of the Polish nymph-fishing method. In addition to seeing Vladi in action on the water, he also teaches how to tie and fish his revolutionary fly, the Vladi Condom Worm. (Spend a day on the river with a fistful of these flies, and you might come to the conclusion that a latex condom was never put to a better use!) This DVD is hosted by angling great, Jack Dennis. European Nymphing Techniques and Fly Tying In European Nymphing Techniques and Fly Tying, author Aaron Jasper gives you all the information you need to successfully catch fish using the methods he describes in this great article. He shares leader formulas, demonstrates various methods of fly presentation, and shows how to tie four of his favorite nymph patterns. The DVD is approximately one hour and twenty minutes, and will be released by early December 2010. Check out Aaron’s Web site, www.euronymphing. com, for more information. catch this fish. Hooking fish at the end of the drift is like finding a $10 bill in the pocket of your jeans before doing the wash: it’s a very welcome bonus! Czech nymphing is very methodical and requires no casting in the traditional sense. At the very end of the presentation, quietly step into the next position, lob the flies forward into the next lie, and continue fishing. Czech-Nymphing Equipment and Rigging A 9- to 11-foot-long, medium-action rod works best for this fishing technique. A full-flex rather than a tip-flex rod is preferable because a full-flex rod is more sensitive for feeling strikes. And due to the tight-line style of Euro-nymphing, the rod must be flexible enough to absorb the shock of a sudden take. Because strike detection is almost immediate, the natural response to quickly set the hook might snap the tippet; a fuller flex rod is more forgiving and protects a fine tippet. (See the sidebar for a list of manufacturers offering rods specifically designed for this type of fishing.) The line weight of the rod is not critical. The cast is a tuck-style cast rather than the traditional cast used to deliver the flies in other methods; after making the automatic hook-set motion at the end of the drift, simply lob the flies back upstream to begin another presentation. A rod designed to handle a 3- to 5-weight line is more than adequate for Czech nymphing. My preference is for a 10-foot-long, 3- or 4-weight rod, but there are times when I will use an 11-foot rod. The size of the river dictates the exact equipment I choose. The longer rod offers more reach and aids in fishing tricky currents around the pocket water where these techniques work best. The leader for the short-line method is relatively simple; the entire system utilizes only three sections. I use a 3-footlong length of 20-pound-test Golden Stren for the butt section, and a 2-foot-long section of 14-pound-test Golden Stren for the midsection; this accounts for 5 feet of the leader. The tippet is from 5 to 7 feet long. I generally use 5X fluorocarbon because the thin diameter creates less drag in the water so the flies sink quickly. Water clarity and fly selection dictate the exact diameter of the tippet I use. For fishing larger flies in fast water, I might use size 4X; the rest of the time I prefer 5X. While the tippet is small in diameter, it is surprisingly strong; all the major premium brands of fluorocarbon are usually labeled well below their actual breaking strength. Other than the anchor fly, which is tied to the end of the tippet, add the remainder of the flies as droppers spaced 20 inches apart. Recommended Czech-Nymphing Flies Traditional Czech nymphs are usually designed to imitate the caddis larvae found in the freestone streams of Eastern Europe, but they are not essential for using these fishing techniques. Our streams offer trout a wider variety of food, making caddisfly imitations less essential; in additional to 42 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m Pineapple Express Hook: Tiemco TMC100 SPBL, sizes 20 to 14. Bead: Copper tungsten bead to match the size of the hook. Thread: Olive 8/0 (70 denier). Tail: Wood duck fibers. Abdomen: Pheasant tail fibers. Rib: Small copper wire. Thorax: Orange Ice Dub. Hot spot: Datum Glo-Brite #5. 265 Nymph Hook: Tiemco TMC100 SPBL, sizes 20 to 12. Bead: Silver tungsten bead to match the size of the hook. Thread: Brown 8/0 (70 denier). Tail: Brown hen saddle hackle. Body: A blend of dubbing—Davy Wotton SLF caddis brown (75 percent), Davy Wotton SLF orange silver midge (20 percent), and brown UV Ice Dub (5 percent). Rib: Small black wire. Wing case: Black Thin Skin. Legs: Brown hen saddle hackle. François Hook: Tiemco TMC100 SPBL, sizes 20 to 14. Bead: Copper tungsten bead to match the size of the hook. Thread: Olive 8/0 (70 denier). Body: Pheasant tail fibers. Rib: Small copper wire. Hot spot: Datum Glo Brite #5. FLY PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVE KLAUSMEYER W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 43 New Rods for European Nymph Fishing YOU CAN USE A STANDARD 9-FOOT-LONG, 4- OR 5-WEIGHT ROD WITH the fishing methods described in this article, but several manufacturers have developed extra-long—and in some cases extra-light—rods specifically designed for Euro-style nymphing. These rods measure from 9 feet 9 inches (the Sage 99) to 11 feet long. Here is a list of the manufacturers who responded to requests for information about their tackle. ECHO Pete Erickson used European nymphing methods to achieve strong individual finishes at several World Fly Fishing Championships. Using his experience, he worked with Tim Rajeff to develop three rods for nymph fishing: a 10-footer designed for a 3-weight line; a 10-foot-6-inch-long rod rated for a 3-weight; and, an 11-foot, 4-weight rod. To learn more about the Echo PE Shadow Series of rods, log on to www.rajeffsports.com. GREYS English fly-fishing competition champion Howard Croston teamed with Greys to create five rods with European-style nymph fishing in mind. Take your pick: a 10-foot-long rod for either a 2-, 3-, or 4-weight line, or an 11-footer for either a 3- or 4-weight. These rods are part of the Greys XF2 Streamflex series. For more information, go to www.hardyna.com, and look for the link to Greys. (The broad selection and affordability of these rods—none cost more than $400—make them a “best buy.”) G.LOOMIS Several years ago, fly-casting champion and Loomis rod designer Steve Rajeff developed a complete family of revolutionary twohanded casting rods, and other companies raced to catch up. Always on the cutting edge, Steve then turned his attention to creating rods for Euro-style nymph fishing. Loomis’s two 10-foot-long Czech Nymph rods, which were introduced last season, are part of the Max GLX series. One rod is rated for a 3-weight line; the other is rated for a 4-weight. For more information, go to www.gloomis.com. ORVIS In its top-end Helios series, Orvis offers a 10-foot-long, 4-weight rod. Although some anglers use this rod for fishing out of float tubes and canoes, this is also a fine rod when employing European nymph-fishing methods. Check out all the Helios rods at www.orvis.com. SAGE The Sage 99 is 9 feet 9 inches long, and is rated for a 4-weight line. According to Sage, the 99 features “slightly oversized guides specifically placed to make stack mending, shake-out and line feeding easier. Put it all together and you have a light, perfectly balanced rod that casts like a 9-footer but fishes like a 10.” See all the details about the Sage 99 at www. sageflyfish.com. GREAT BAY ROD COMPANY Great Bay’s EMG Nymphing rods were designed in cooperation with Ian Colin James, and were used by the Canadian Youth Fly Fishing Team in 2009. All are 11 feet long, and you can select from a 4-, 5-, or 6-weight rod. Also check out Great Bay’s MSR Nymphing rods. Each measures 10 feet 4 inches long, and are rated for either a 3-, 4-, or 5-weight line. These rods are affordably priced, so you can try this new style of fishing without breaking the bank. For more information, go to www.greatbayrods.com. caddis larvae, our fish feed on mayfly and stonefly nymphs, scuds and sow bugs, and other microinvertebrates. Weighted patterns are the key to Czech nymphing. Add lead wire (or a nontoxic substitute) and tungsten beads to your favorite patterns. I carry a wide variety of nymph and larva imitations, but even generic patterns—the Hare’s-Ear, Prince, and Pheasant-Tail Nymphs—are all great weighted flies that even novices can tie. The heavier “anchor” fly sinks quickly and draws the dropper flies with it. I commonly use the anchor fly on the point, and add the lighter flies as droppers. I sometimes fish a soft-hackle pattern that closely imitates an emerging insect in place of a dropper. This technique is especially deadly when fishing during a hatch. French and Spanish Nymphing French and Spanish anglers invented nymph-fishing techniques that have caught trout all over Europe and North America. I’ll never forget the day I learned these methods. As I said earlier, I often use the South Branch of the Raritan as a testing ground for new techniques. I fish this water using strike indicators, and more recently with shortline Czech-nymphing techniques, but on this trip, I had my rod rigged French style: with a very long leader and two weighted flies. I started with a stretch of water that often produces about a dozen fish. I positioned myself midstream and began fishing my nymphs to every holding area, and even cast to some spots that I did not think could hold trout. My friend Davy Wotton said that the French just count to three and set the hook, so I did as he instructed: cast the flies, count to three, and lift the rod. I couldn’t believe it, but there was a trout attached to my line almost every time! It took me five hours to cover a section of stream that usually takes only about an hour, but I caught more fish using this method than I normally catch “cherry picking” all the good water. French nymphing works because you’re not relying on matching a hatch or even a certain insect; you rely on the “reaction strikes” of the fish. This means the trout react Use Ross’s Balance Adjustable Reel Arm to fine-tune a rod and reduce muscle fatigue. Although Ross initially thought this device would be used to position a reel in the other direction—opposite the handle—Ross sales manager Brad Befus said tournament trout anglers immediately started using Balance arms to mount reels beyond the reel seats as counterweights on extra-long nymph rods, such as this G. Loomis Czech Nymph 3-weight. According to editor David Klausmeyer, “I was sort of skeptical when I requested a sample Balance arm to test. I see a lot of gimmicks—as well as items that are of only marginal value—but this thing really works. I dialed in the balance of my favorite nymph-fishing rod, and as a result, it actually felt lighter when fishing. It might not be for everyone—you have to be pretty finicky about your tackle to go to these extremes—but I was pleasantly surprised.” For more information about the Balance Adjustable Reel Arm, go to www.ross reels.com. 44 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m Polish Woven Express Hook: Skalka G, sizes 12 to 8. Bead: Black tungsten bead to match the size of the hook. Thread: Size 6/0 (140 denier), color to match the top of fly, usually brown or olive. Abdomen: Contrasting colors of fourstrand embroidery floss. Rib: Brassie copper wire Thorax: SLF Spiky Squirrel Dubbing. Rocked Out Hook: Skalka G, sizes 14 to 8. Bead: Black tungsten bead to match the size of the hook. Thread: Olive 8/0 (70 denier). Abdomen: Nature’s Spirit insect green dubbing. Rib: Size 6X monofilament. Thorax: Black hare’s-ear dubbing. Back: Jan Siman Magic Shrimp Foil, olive. Straight Up Hook: Tiemco TMC100 SPBL, sizes 20 to 16. Bead: Copper tungsten bead to match the size of the hook. Thread: Olive 8/0 (70 denier). Tails: Wood duck fibers. Abdomen: Tying thread. Rib: Small copper wire. Thorax: SLF Spiky Squirrel Dubbing. Wing case: Medium peacock Mylar. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 45 and strike as the flies descend to the streambed. I have observed that the majority of takes actually occur before the flies reach the bottom. This supports my hypothesis that the trout strike out of curiosity, anger, or some other instinct. After all, what nymph descends through the water column as apposed to ascending? More Thoughts on Tackle Selection The long rod you use for short-line Czech nymphing will work for French-style fishing. Because of the longer rod length, you might wish to use a reel that is one size larger than the rod to better balance the outfit. A properly balanced rod and reel will cause less fatigue and make for a more enjoyable day on the water; this is even more critical because these methods frequently require extending your arm for long periods of time. French nymphing requires using a 15- to 25-foot-long leader. The entire leader, except for the last 5 to 10 feet, is the heavier butt section. I start the butt section with a 40-inchlong piece of stiff .021-inch clear monofilament. I then add 20-inch-long sections of .019-, .017-, .015-inch-diameter leader material, and finally a 10-inch-long section of .013inch leader material. This heavy butt section will allow you to turn over the flies with ease. After the butt section comes the “sighter,” which is an in-line strike indicator, and then a 4- to 10-foot-long tippet; adjust the length of the tippet to match the depth and velocity of the water. The sighter aids visual strike detection. It is not a strike indicator in the sense that it floats on the water: it is the complete opposite. You may raise the sighter off the water or allow it to lie on the surface as a floating indicator. There is no slack or any dead spot in your rigging, which often occurs when using a regular strike indicator, which is one of the reasons this fishing method is so deadly. Any strike is transmitted directly to the sighter, which is easily visible on the water. There are two options when using monofilament for the sighter: a straight piece of brightly colored monofilament, such as Golden Stren High-vis Ande or red Amnesia, or a “curly whirly” (also known as a coiled sighter), which was shown to me by competition angler and Team USA member Loren Williams. A curly whirly is a piece of brightly colored and coiled monofilament. When tied into your leader, all you need to do is watch the curls straighten or hesitate while drifting downstream to detect strikes. Smaller flies require a lighter tippet. I often use size 6X fluorocarbon, but when using heavier patterns in situations where getting the flies down quickly is not an issue, I generally use 5X fluorocarbon; I switch to size 4X if I think the flies might snag the bottom or I might encounter bigger fish. French versus Spanish Presentations There are two ways to present your flies when executing long-leader presentations: directly upstream (the classic French style), or across and slightly upstream (the Spanish method). No matter which presentation you choose, the rod angle at the end of the cast is critical: the rod must stop dead and cannot drop below 10 o’clock. This allows the long leader to unfurl and straighten, and it allows for immediate contact with your flies the moment they hit the water. You will not make long drifts when fishing upstream. This presentation is better suited for shallow pocket water where the lies are much smaller and the water is shallow enough that you can approach from directly downstream. Position yourself behind or slightly to the side of the lie. After you cast, keep the rod tip up and track the flies toward you. Once your rod reaches the 12 o’clock position, snap your wrist to pull the flies out of the water and make another cast. This is known as rapid-fire casting because many presentations are made in a short period of time. Don’t wade through the water until you have fished it, and never step into water that you have not fished. Wade upstream methodically. Make a mental grid out the water in front of you and fish it, making sure that no lie goes untouched. Feather your casts out from left to right, and then move a few steps upriver and repeat the sequence. Leading the Flies Anglers used to fishing with indicators may have to get used to leading their flies through the water. Unlike when fishing with a strike indicator and controlling slack line to achieve a proper dead drift, French nymph-fishing anglers use constant tension to control the drift and detect strikes. Leading refers to keeping some degree of tension on the leader and flies while moving the rod tip ahead and downstream of where the leader meets the water’s surface. Doing this keeps you in touch with the flies and will allow you to detect the lightest strikes. Only experience will teach you how much tension to keep on your leader and what speed to sweep the rod tip downstream. The trout will let you know when you have it right. French and Spanish nymph-fishing techniques will enable you to tackle water that you might pass up; I have watched many anglers walk past very good lies simply because they did not have the correct tackle or know the proper fishing methods. While these techniques do not work in every nymph-fishing situation, they are quite versatile and will give you something new to try. With practice, you will discover that these methods are very productive. Aaron Jasper is a third grade teacher, owner of Fly Fishing Evolution guide service, and the co-founder of www.troutpredator. com. He fishes more than 200 days a year. For more information about Aaron and to follow along on his adventures, check out www.flyfishingevolution.com. If you’d like to learn more about Euro-nymph-fishing techniques and flies, go to the Bonus Content section at www.flytyer.com to watch videos demonstrating these fishing and tying methods. European-style nymphing has revolutionized nymphfishing techniques, and they can work for you, too. 46 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m Triple Threat Hook: Tiemco TMC100 SPBL, size 18 to 14. Thread: Brown 8/0 (70 denier). Bead: Gold or copper tungsten bead to match the size of the hook. Tails: Wood duck fibers. Abdomen: Striped peacock herl and Fly DK Quill Body #3 (UV). Rib: Small copper wire. Thorax: Jan Siman dubbing, peacock bronze. Hot spot: Datum Glow-Brite #5. 365 Nymph Hook: Tiemco TMC100 SPBL, sizes 20 to 14. Bead: Silver tungsten bead to match the size of the hook. Thread: Brown 8/0 (70 denier). Tail: Dark coq de Leon. Abdomen: Tying thread. Rib: Small black wire. Thorax: SLF Spiky Squirrel Dubbing. Wing case: Black Thin Skin. Iced Cases Caddis Hook: Tiemco TMC100 SPBL, sizes 18 to 12. Bead: Black tungsten bead to match the size of the hook. Thread: Olive 8/0 (70 denier). Abdomen: Peacock Ice Dub. Rib: Small copper wire. Thorax: Insect green Superfine Dubbing. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 47 DAVE KLAUSMEYER 48 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m TYING PHOTOGRAPHY BY DICK TALLEUR 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Muddler Minnow HOOK: Daiichi 1750 or your choice of streamer hook, size 4. THREAD: Regular tying thread for making the first part of the fly, then switch to gel-spun thread for spinning the head. BODY: Gold braid. UNDERWING: Gray squirrel tail hair. TAIL & WING: Mottled turkey. COLLAR & HEAD: Medium- or fine-fibered deer hair. 50 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m Making the Use the Right Tools Muddler Minnow 1 2 Tie the tail, body, and wing of the fly using standard tying techniques. Place a drop of superglue on the thread at the base of the wing to weld everything to the hook. Rub the glue dry using a toothpick; keep the toothpick moving so it doesn’t get stuck to the fly. Start the gel-spun thread at the base of the wing. 3 4 The overall length of the completed fly will be about two inches. 5 6 Grasp the tips of the hairs. Comb out and discard the underfur and short fibers. Okay, it’s time to tie the head of the fly. First, you need to clip a bunch of medium- or fine-fibered hair about equal to the diameter of a pencil. The hairs for this fly are about 11/4 inches long. Place the bunch of hair in a stacker with the tips facing the base of the tool. Tap the stacker on your bench top; all the hairs will slide to the bottom of the tool. Here I have removed the barrel of the stacker to reveal the evened ends. 7 Remove the hair from the stacker. Place the bunch on the fly. Note that the tips extend about halfway down the body. As you can see, a fairly generous amount is required to create a full head and collar in one operation. 8 Slightly push or “shroud” the hair around the hook. Sharpen the thread (twist it tight) and make one gentle wrap around the entire bunch. I colored the thread red so that you can see it clearly. 9 Make two or three more thread wraps precisely on top of the first wrap; sharpen the thread and increase the tension as you work. 10 Apply maximum tension while simultaneously releasing the hair. The hair will spin around the hook and flare on all sides. Grasp the hair again, and sharpen the thread. Make several more very firm wraps; don’t allow the thread to spin the hair further unless you want it to rotate a little more around the hook. 11 Slip the thread forward through the butt ends of the hair. Carefully wrap forward and back through the hairs to lock down the spinning wraps. Slip the packing tool onto the hook. Continue grasping the hair tips in your left hand, and press the butt ends back to pack the hair tight. It’s very important to use the correct tools: hair stackers, cleaning combs, packing tools, and straight and curved scissors with serrated blades. I’ll give you a brief description of the tools I use and show you how to use them in the tying exercises. Use a stacker to even the ends of a bunch of hair. We typically even the tips of the hairs, but as you’ll see, there are times when you’ll want to even the butt ends. The main attribute of a good stacker is that the inside diameter must be large enough to allow a bunch of hair to move freely inside when you tap the tool on the top of your tying bench. Use a hair packer to press a bunch of spun hair toward the back of the fly. You can press the hair against the body of the fly (refer to the photos of tying the Muddler Minnow), or press bunches of spun hair together (see the photos of tying Turck’s Tarantula). Packing the hair compresses the spun fibers together, yielding a compact, fairly solid head. Fly shops carry a wide selection of hair stackers and packing tools. A small comb is handy to remove the underfur from a bunch of hair. This is very important so the hair fibers spin neatly around the hook. You can find smaller combs in the drugstore cosmetics department. Fly shops carry larger combs, such as the mustache comb in the accompanying photo. You’ll need a larger comb for cleaning the underfur from heavier bunches of hair. The scissors shown here are from Uni Products. I’ve been using them for many years, and I love them. Note that a screw rather than a rivet joins the blades. This screw enables you to keep the blades tight together and maintain good shearing action. Using the right thread is a must. Not surprisingly, Uni offers a couple of very good threads. Uni-Cord is a member of the gel-spun family of threads. I don’t know what this stuff is, but its strength-to-diameter ratio is off the charts. Uni-Cord also has a couple of additional attributes that are essential for hair work. It lies flat and smooth on Examine all the patches of deer hair hanging on the pegboard in your local fly shop. Some have thicker, firmer hair (on the left); this material is more suitable for tying floating flies. Thin hair (on the right) is best for making flies that sink. 12 Brush all the hair back, and tie off and clip the thread head. Use more wraps than usual to compensate for the slipperiness of the thread. 13 14 Clip the head to shape. Work slowly and remember: Once you cut the hair off, you can’t put it back. Here’s our completed Muddler Minnow. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 51 1 2 3 4 5 6 Hair-Head Rabbit Matuka HOOK: Daiichi 2220 or your choice of streamer hook, size 2. THREAD: Uni-Nylon 210. BODY: Pearl or silver braid. RIB: 2X or 3X clear monofilament. WING: White rabbit Zonker strip. COLLAR & HEAD: White medium- or finefibered deer hair. 7 52 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m Tying the Hair-Head Rabbit Matuka 1 Tie the body and wing of the fly. Rub a drop of superglue on the thread wraps at the base of the wing. Be sure it’s absolutely dry before proceeding. 2 Stack a bunch of hair, hold it on top of the hook, and make several thread wraps. Continue holding the tip ends on top of the hook and gradually increase the thread tension. I’ve darkened the wraps for clarity. 3 4 5 6 7 Apply maximum thread tension, keeping the hair on top of the hook. Press the hair back, using a hair packer. Slide the thread forward through the hair butt ends. As you can see, there’s still some hook to cover. Clip a second bunch of hair, trim off the tips, and stack the butt ends. Tie the hair to the top of the hook using maximum tension. Once again, push the hair back using your hair packer. Clip the head to shape. The Hair-Head Rabbit Matuka is an excellent streamer for catching lunker bass and trophy trout. the hook, and it is quite slippery so that hair readily spins over it. Before gel-spun thread, we spun hair on the bare hook shank, but now we can actually spin hair over the thread and tie extremely durable flies. Uni-Nylon 210 denier also works great. The diameter is somewhat thicker than Uni-Cord, which is rated at 110 denier. Other than this difference in diameter, the characteristics of these threads are about the same. I use UniNylon on big flies such as the Hair-Head Rabbit Matuka in this article. As much as I like Uni Products, there are other very good brands of gel-spun thread and scissors available. With respect to thread, just remember to use gel spun. Select the Correct Hair Choosing the right hair is equally important to selecting the correct tools and thread. The deer hair you use depends upon whether you are making a floating or sinking fly. Check out the photo of two bunches of deer hair; as you can see, one patch has thicker hairs than the other. The thinner hair is also softer. We’ll use both types of hair in the tying exercises, and explain their different purposes. Let me debunk a common misunderstanding: Deer hair is not hollow, as it has been often described, but it is cellular in varying degrees. Thicker, better-floating hair is often described as being “pulpy,” which is a very apt description. And the closer you get to the butt ends of the hairs, the pulpier it feels. (TOP) A hair stacker is essential for spinning deer hair. Use a stacker with an inside diameter large enough to allow a bunch of hair to move freely inside the barrel of the tool. (RIGHT) Here are the author’s preferred scissors for trimming spun deer hair. Note that one of the blades is serrated. The serrations grasp the hair, and the smoothedged blade makes the actual cut. (LEFT) Combs and a hair packer (far left) will improve your hair spinning. Be sure to add these inexpensive tools to your fly-tying kit. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 53 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Turck’s Tarantula HOOK: Daiichi 1750 or your choice of streamer hook, size 4. THREAD: Regular tying thread for making the first part of the fly, then switch to gel-spun thread for spinning the head. TAIL: Amherst pheasant tippet fibers. BODY: Hare’s-ear dubbing. WING: White calf tail. WING TOPPING: Pearl Krystal Flash or similar. COLLAR & HEAD: Coarse-fibered deer or antelope body hair. LEGS: Rubber legs. 54 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m Making the Notes for the Tying Exercises Turck’s Tarantula 1 Tie the tail, body, and wing of the fly using regular tying thread; then switch to gel spun. The body and wing take up the first two-thirds of the hook shank. 2 3 4 5 6 Stack the tip ends of a bunch of hair; these hairs look different because I’m using antelope. 7 8 Pack the second bunch of hair tight against the first bunch. Tie the hair to the hook. Increase the tension while wrapping the thread. Apply maximum thread tension to spin and flare the hair. Press the hair back using a hair packer. Note that lots of hook shank remains up front. We’ll fill this as the next step. Stack the butt ends of another bunch of hair. Tie on the hair with the butt ends pointing toward the rear of the fly. Spin the hair around the hook. Tie off and clip the thread. Start clipping the head to shape. I am using straight scissors because I want to make a cylindrical head. 9 10 There, the head is done. I am leaving the head slightly larger than normal for illustrative purposes. I use this unique maneuver to add legs to the fly. Sharpen the thread, and tie on again by sliding the thread into the notch between the collar and the rear of the head (arrow A). Make several firm wraps, allowing the thread to slide slightly forward (arrow B). 11 12 Tie a strand of rubber legs to each side of the fly. Make a three-turn whip-finish, working the thread between the rubber legs. A Matarelli long-reach whip finisher is a big help here. 13 Use a toothpick to apply a drop of superglue in the notch. Allow the glue to sink in and lock the legs to the fly and seal the knot. 14 Here’s our completed Turck’s Tarantula. This is a great pattern for matching the salmon-fly hatch, and it’s also a hot attractor. We’ll make the ever-popular Muddler Minnow in the first tying exercise. The dressing is essentially the original, except that I have replaced the flat gold tinsel with gold braid. I like to think of the Muddler and other flies of this type as tying two patterns on the same hook. In other words, while the parts complement each other, they don’t interact during the tying process. For the Muddler Minnow, we’ll start where the hair work begins; the steps up to that point are no different from tying a common wet fly, so I won’t show them here. I do recommend going easy with the squirrel tail hair in the wing; this material is slippery, doesn’t compress, and creates unwanted bulk if you use too much of it. You’ll notice that I use the term sharpen the thread throughout the exercise. This simply means spinning the bobbin so that the thread is tight and narrow. Right-handed tiers spin clockwise (to the left), but lefties spin counterclockwise (to the right). For tying with hair that has good flotation properties, I’ve chosen a novel and very effective big fly: Turck’s Tarantula. This dressing is supposed to be the original; I got it from the book, Flies for Trout, by Dick Stewart and Farrow Allen. They note that this pattern won the 1990 Jackson Hole One-Fly Contest. I did well with it on my fishing trip to Chile. I’ll leave you with this bit of advice: Above all else, learn to judge and select hairs with an eye toward what pattern you are making. Even with the proper tools and good tying skills, you’ll find yourself struggling when using hair that’s poorly suited to the task at hand. Have fun, work slowly, and don’t be afraid. With a little effort, you’ll master the finer points of stacking, spinning, and trimming deer hair. Dick Talleur has been a member of the Fly Tyer family for many years; he has contributed great articles to our magazine since the 1970s. Dick is the author of the award-winning book, Trout Flies for the 21st Century, which is part of the Fly Tyer library of fine tying books. The Fly Tyer library is being published by The Lyons Press. Get Inspired Want to learn even more about tying with deer hair? Then turn to page 80 of this magazine and read the article titled “Lee Weil: Long Island’s Master Bug Maker.” Her beautiful flies also grace the cover of this issue of Fly Tyer. Lee creates brilliant deer-hair bugs that inspire us to want to rush to the vise and tie. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 55 56 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m THE CA REY SPECIAL: A NORTH- WEST ORIGINAL TIE THESE TIMELESS FLIES TO CATCH MODERN TROUT. Article & Photography by MARK HALPERIN The Carey Special and Six Pack are classically inspired wet flies that suggest many varieties of nymphs. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 57 T hese days, if you fish one of the lakes in the Northwest or try your luck in British Columbia’s Kamloops, you’re apt to find most anglers fishing chironomid imitations below strike indicators; shoulders hunched and brows furrowed, they’re waiting for a bob or jiggle, some telltale sign of striking fish. They’ll switch to Callibaetis dry flies if a hatch begins, or tie on damselfly nymphs if Odonata pays a visit. There may be a few individualists working bunny or marabou leech imitations, or even Woolly Buggers, but the chironomid fishing technique was worked out on these lakes and is one of the most preferred methods. But this wasn’t always so. When things get slow and practiced anglers scratch their heads and rummage through old fly boxes, looking for something that might save the day, they are likely to turn to a Carey Special. History and Lore of the Carey Special In 1946, when Roy Patrick opened what may have been the West’s first fly shop in Seattle, and began self-publishing—in mimeograph format—Pacific Northwest Fly Patterns, the Carey Special was something of a novelty. As Don Chinn notes in his book, Northwest Fly Patterns, the Carey Special was used “to imitate an emerging sedge, but is now considered an excellent dragonfly pattern.” Chinn believed in the pattern, and he claimed that the Carey Special also “imitates the Dobson, dragon or damsel fly nymphs,” and describes it as “an excellent imitation of leeches.” It would be difficult to find another fly that suggests such a diverse range of trout foods. Over its long history, the Carey Special has hooked rainbows, browns, and cross-bred trout and steelhead, and has attracted a great deal of lore. According to one tradition, the pattern was devised in 1925 when Dr. Lloyd A. Day, of Quesnel, British Columbia, found a groundhog in a trap while on a fishing trip, and asked Col. Thomas Carey to construct a fly using hair from the pelt. The resulting fly was named the Monkey Faced Louise, but in short order was christened the Carey Special in honor of Colonel Carey. Pattern recipes always call for hair for the tail and most bodies, but what kind of animal has a way of changing. In addition to groundhog, there are recipes that specify badger and muskrat. There’s rarely mention of hackle, which lead some fly tiers to conclude there was none in the early versions. Another tradition dispenses with Dr. Day’s contributions altogether, and instead tells of Colonel Carey’s difficulties in enticing British Columbia’s trout to his flies. According to this story, Carey solved the problem by devising a pattern to imitate an emerging sedge using hair, and because the flies of the day required hackle, he finished off his new pattern with two wound pheasant rump feathers. By the 1940s, the single constant ingredient in the recipe was pheasant rump hackle. As Raymond puts it, “In the decades since its creation, the Carey Special has evolved from a specific dressing into a generic style of tying. Now there exist countless versions, though all still bear the name Carey Special. The use of pheasant rump for the hackle is just about the only feature of the original pattern that remains in all the modern variations, though even that has changed; while Colonel Carey used a pair of feathers and tied them very full in the original, the fly now is most often tied sparsely with a single feather.” These stories date the creation of the fly to the mid1930s. As late as 1970, Roy Patrick still listed badger hair as the standard tail material for the Carey Special, with “Chinese or English cock pheasant saddle or rump fibers or ring neck [sic] tail fibers” as alternatives. By this time, however, the preferred body material was peacock herl. “Silver tinsel, moose mane, peacock quill, pheasant saddle hackle, badger hair or a dubbed body. Floss, chenille or wool in any color” are all listed as alternative materials for tying the Carey Special. Without realizing it, Colonel Carey had devised one of North America’s first soft-hackle wet flies. Word of its success spread throughout British Columbia, then drifted south into the Pacific Northwest. In a matter of 20 or 30 years, the Carey Special had become one of the most popular lake patterns, almost becoming a Northwest all-purpose go-to fly. Use of the Carey Special has narrowed over time. It is now recognized as one of the region’s better dragonfly imitations, and with appropriate adjustment in color and size, it becomes a good damselfly nymph. More recently, the Carey Special has re-emerged as a credible caddisfly imitation, and not long ago, I came across a reference to it as a baitfish fly. Even if it’s no longer the first fly an angler ties on, the Carey Special remains a formidable resource offering many fishing options. Like many other patterns, I troll it using a full sinking line, and cast it around the tops and edges of weed beds with a floating line and a slow, stuttering retrieve. In the shallows, where a strike indicator would spook trout, I use the Carey Special for sight-fishing with an intermediate-sinking line; I cast to a pod of cruising fish, trying to land the fly with minimal splash a few feet ahead of them. When the trout near the fly, I start my retrieve with a few short, pulsed pulls, causing the pattern to dart erratically. That motion attracts the attention of one or more fish, and I’m often rewarded with a solid strike. The Modern Carey Special A good pattern often suggests—rather than closely imitates—a living insect, and the Carey Special can sug- 58 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m 1 2 TYING THE 3 CAREY SPECIAL 1 Start the thread on the hook and tie on the tail fibers. Tie on the ribbing wire. Next, tie on a piece of reinforcing thread and the peacock herl at the hook bend. Wrap the tying thread up the hook. Spin together the reinforcing thread and herl. 2 Wrap the herl and reinforcing thread up the hook to create the body of the fly. Tie off and clip any extra herl and thread. Counterwrap the wire rib over the body. Tie off and clip or break the wire. 3 4 Tie on the tip of the hackle. Leave the thread hanging behind the feather. Wrap the hackle forward in the opposite direction of the thread. Wrap the thread through the hackle, carefully avoiding the feather fibers. Tie off and clip the excess hackle. Whip-finish and clip the thread. gest many forms of food. Variations in the numbers and kinds of materials used to construct the fly slant its appeal in various directions. Without a tail, the Carey Special looks more like a caddisfly or dragonfly nymph. Tie the body using peacock herl, various colors of chenille or floss, or one of the numerous dubbing blends to create a fly that suggests the appearance of local prey. Just as an insect takes on the color of a lake’s vegetation and bottom, the chameleon-like Carey Special is also adaptable. Adding weight speeds 4 Carey Special HOOK: 2X-long wet-fly hook, sizes 12 to 6. THREAD: Black 6/0 (140 denier). TAIL: Six to 12 pheasant rump fibers. RIB: Copper or gold wire. BODY: Two to four peacock herls. HACKLE: Pheasant rump feather. the fly’s descent, or tie it without additional weight to fish just under the surface. The Carey Special was dressed on many sizes of hooks, but today it is most often tied on 2X-long wet-fly hooks in sizes 12 to 6. Constructing the fly is straightforward. Wrap the hook with thread, and tie the tail. Make the body slender to mimic a damselfly, or thicker and more tapered to suggest a dragonfly or leech. Counterwrap the body with a wire rib. Use a pheasant rump feather for hackle. Select a W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 59 1 2 3 4 TYING THE 5 SIX PACK 6 7 8 9 10 60 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m feather with fibers that extend to at least the hook bend; most tiers prefer longer fibers, sometimes stretching well beyond the end of the tail. Strip off the bottom, fuzzier fibers, and clip and discard the top one-quarter inch of the feather. 1 2 3 Start the thread on the hook. Tie on 8 to 12 pheasant rump fibers to form the tail. Tie on a pheasant rump feather or bunch of fibers by the tips. Twist the feather or fibers together. Wrap the twisted material up the hook to form the first half of the body. Tie off and clip the excess. Tie on a second feather or bunch of fibers. 4 Twist the second feather or bunch of fibers together. Wrap the material up the hook to complete the body. Tie off and clip the excess. 5 6 7 8 Tie on the wire rib behind the head of the fly. Spiral-wrap the wire down the hook to the base of the tail. Spiral-wrap the wire back up the body to the head of the fly. Tie off and clip the remaining wire. This completes the body of the Six Pack. It’s okay if it looks a little shaggy; that probably lends to the fly’s realistic appeal. 9 Tie on the pheasant rump feather by the tip. Leave the thread hanging so that it will be behind the wrapped hackle. 10 Wrap the rump feather in the opposite direction of the thread to form the hackle. Wrap the thread through the hackle, carefully avoiding the fibers. Whipfinish and clip the thread. Six Pack HOOK: 2X-long wet-fly hook, sizes 12 to 6. THREAD: Black 6/0 (140 denier). TAIL: Pheasant rump fibers. BODY: Pheasant rump feathers or fibers. RIB: Copper or gold wire. HACKLE: Pheasant rump feather. Carey Special Variations There are many variations of the standard Carey Special; a few have become so widespread that they have acquired their own names. The Jolly Green Giant has body of gray mohair or green seal dubbing. The Carey Bugger substitutes marabou for the tail. The most popular variation by far, once called the Carey Self, is now known as the Six Pack. The creation of the Six Pack is credited to Carl Haufner, with help from angler Everett Caryl. Roy Patrick also played a role. According to Roy, “I had dyed some pheasant saddle purely as an experiment to see how much color would be left on the feathers after dyeing.” Haufner dropped in the shop, and Patrick gave him some samples. Haufner “in turn made some Carey flies with the material and had tremendous success. Everyone was curious what he was using, he told them, and they agreed on a barter system. That is where the name bloomed.” Patrick dates the invention of the Six Pack to 1963. I tie a Six Pack based on Will Atlas’s recipe, which uses only natural pheasant rump fibers and wire. Construction is a little challenging because long pheasant rump feathers are difficult to find and hard to use. Some tiers tie on a pheasant rump feather at the hook bend, then twist and wrap the feather to create the body of the fly. I prefer tying on separate fibers for the tail, and then use a separate feather for the body; a second and sometimes a third feather are required to make the body for a fly larger than size 12. In another departure from the standard practice, I tie in the hackle tip facing the hook eye, and then reverse the direction of the fibers to produce a shaggier fly. Fish the Six Pack just like the Carey Special. The differences in appearance are subtle: the Six Pack always has a tail, is usually thinner and lighter in color, and often more sparsely hackled. Fish can find one pattern attractive one day and then change their opinion the next, so I always carry both patterns in my fly box. If I had to restrict myself to only one of these flies, I would opt for the Six Pack, but I would feel impoverished. Though less popular today, it’s unlikely that these quintessential Northwest searching patterns will soon be forgotten; they have seduced too many fish—to say nothing of anglers—for that to happen. The Carey Special and Six Pack are aces up the sleeve of any angler who has them. Mark Halperin is a talented fly tier and skilled angler who lives in Washington State. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 61 pat ford 62 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m EVERGLADES BASS ON THE Break the mid-winter doldrums with a visit to Florida’s Everglades. Go prepared to enjoy fast bass-fishing action. by Pat Ford FLY I n the months following last winter’s South Florida “freeze,” there were very few saltwater fish left on the flats to chase around. In addition, every single peacock bass in the 100-acre lake behind my house died, and the local canals were also hit pretty hard, although fortunately not to the same degree. All this left me with a lot of time on my hands, and friends Alan Zaremba and Thadeus Ragan, both professional bass-fishing guides, decided that it was time for me to pay attention to what they did for a living. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 63 J-pig HOOK: 3X-long, straight-eye streamer bent into the Bend Back style. THREAD: 3/0 Monocord. EYES: Large lead eyes. TAIL: Small round rubber and Midge Krystal Flash. BODY: Medium Crystal Chenille. WING: Medium round rubber. NOTE: The J-Pig is another jig-and-pig style pattern. This fly provides lots of action and low frequency noise to attract bass. The hook is bent into a Bend Back shape to make it quite snag proof. grim reaper HOOK: Daiichi or Gamakatsu 60-degree jig hook, size 3/0. THREAD: 6/0 (140 denier). EYES: Large lead eyes. TAIL: Hareline Dubbin’s Reaper Tails. RATTLE: 4-millimeter glass rattle. BODY: UV Polar Chenille Palmered. LEGS: Silicone Crazy Legs NOTE: Pat Ehlers’s Grim Reaper is the fly angler’s version of a jig and pig. The 60-degree jig hook with lead eyes attached gives this fly a great swimming action. The combination of rattle and Crazy Legs makes noise that allows bass to find the fly with their lateral lines in low-visibility conditions. Deer-hair Frog HOOK: Stinger hook, size 2/0. THREAD: 3/0 (210 denier) or gel spun. LEGS: Feather tied splayed to imitate the back legs, and rubber legs. BODY: Deer hair clipped as either a popper or slider. EYES: Plastic eyes. WEED GUARD: 20-pound-test hard monofilament. NOTE: Every bass fly-fishing kit should have at least a few deer-hair bugs. Tie these flies in your choice of colors. laSer minnow HOOK: Gamakatsu B10S, size 2. THREAD: 6/0 (140 denier). TAIL: Four round-tipped saddle hackles. FLASH: Krinkle Mirror Flash. HEAD: Hareline Dubbin’s Laser Dubbing. EYES: 3-D Epoxy Eyes. NOTE: Pat Ehlers’s Laser Minnow has a great baitfish profile and does a good job imitating a shad. The Laser Dubbing, from Hareline Dubbin’, is ap plied like ram’s wool, but instead of trimming to shape with scissors, you only need to comb out the loose ends to shape the head. Foamtail Superworm HOOK: Gamakatsu G-Lock Worm Hook or Daiichi X15 X-Point Wide Gape J Hook, size 3/0. THREAD: 6/0 (140 denier). EYES: Large red painted lead eyes. TAIL: Magnum rabbit strip. BODY: Crosscut rabbit strip and UV Polar Chenille wrapped together. FOAM TAB: 1/8-inch-thick Evasote Foam. WEED GUARD: 20-pound-test hard monofilament. NOTE: The unique hook shape keeps the fly from snagging, helps on hookups, and with the foam tab on the tail, gives the fly a vertical motion so that it can be fished along the bottom or retrieved like a streamer. FLY PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVE KLAUSMEYER 64 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m Both Alan and Thadeus can flip a lure into a teacup placed 50 feet away, and have so many bass rods that they seem to have one rigged for every lure they might need to use; deep down in the pile, they also have a couple of fly rods. Over the past year, I’ve fished the amazing Everglades with Alan and Thadeus on a number of occasions. While I still don’t know much about bass fishing, and I still won’t try to find my way around the middle of the ’Glades on my own, I have picked up a few things about fly-fishing for bass in the magnificent Everglades National Park. The bass live in basically two areas: along shorelines, usually in or under weeds and lily pads, and along rocks, ledges, and drop-offs. Both areas offer cover where the fish lie waiting for something to enter their feeding zone. In the ’Glades, most strikes come within a few feet of shore, and the rest will be along a drop-off just outside the edge of the vegetation; if you fish the middle of the channels, you will probably catch mudfish, which are big, ugly, and actually pretty cool. A perfect cast will put the fly literally on the shore so you can creep it back into the water like a frog, mouse, bug, or snake, and then work it through the lily pads and along the drop-off. It appears that bass eat anything they think they can fit into their mouths, but they won’t travel very far to get it, nor will they follow a fly for a great distance. Bass attack on impulse just as soon as they spot something in their “zone.” I don’t think that they care what it is; to them, almost everything in the water is potential food. Thadeus likes fishing with a bass jig that has a pair of rubber claws and resembles a crayfish creeping along the bottom; Alan prefers pulling an unweighted worm across the surface. These two fishing methods also work for fly fishermen. To fish effectively, it pays to work every inch of water either on top or subsurface. This requires a lot of casting, but you don’t have to cast very far, just accurately. Since most of the flies are either weighted or big and bushy, I use a stiff 9-weight rod overloaded with a 10-weight line. I use a bass-taper floating line for fishing surface bugs, and a clear intermediate-sinking tarpon-taper or Teeny 300-grain line for fishing weighted patterns. Floating leaders are usually 9 or 10 feet long, and taper down to anywhere from 12- to 20-pound-test, depending upon the amount of debris in the water. Leaders for the sinking lines are only three to four feet long to keep the flies deep. PAT FORD Trophy bass patrol the edges and readily strike flies that come into view. Frogs and Other Floating Flies You can spend hours in a well-stocked bass-fishing shop looking at lures, and you’ll never see the same one twice; the same applies to bass flies. There are a fair number of commercial bass flies, but they can be broken down to several categories. First, there are frog imitations. They can have hard-plastic, foam, or deer-hair heads, and are made as either poppers or sliders. Most frog patterns have numerous rubber legs and hair or feather tails that are split to W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 65 BaBY Bream HOOK: Your favorite regular saltwater hook, size 1/0. THREAD: Chartreuse 6/0 (140 denier). BODY: Any color combination of EP Fibers. EYES: 3-D eyes. WEED GUARD: 20-pound-test monofilament. NOTE: Even though this fly is designed to imitate a bream, you can tie it in an almost unlimited number of colors. long-Strip CraYFiSh HOOK: Gamakatsu B10S, size 2. THREAD: 6/0 (140 denier). TAIL: Hot-tipped Crazy Legs. EYES: Red medium lead eyes. BODY: Medium Crystal Chenille. RIB: Medium copper wire. WING: Rabbit strip tied on Matuka style. FLASH: Krystal Flash. NOTE: Pat Ehlers’s Long-Strip Crayfish is a freshwater version of his Long-Strip Bonefish fly. When stripped, its claws and legs mimic the folded claws and legs of a fleeing crayfish. Crayfishorange and olive are two favorite versions. Dean glug HOOK: Long-shank saltwater hook, size 2 or 1/0. THREAD: Size 6/0 (140 denier). TAIL: Marabou or soft fur. LEGS: Rubber legs. BODY: Fly Foam. EYES: Plastic dumbbell. NOTE: This is another pattern that you may tie in any colors that meet your fancy. The foam body makes this fly unsinkable. artiCulateD DiVer BACK HOOK: 6X-long, straight-eye streamer hook, size 4. Wrap the hook with marabou. Cut off the hook, and glue a ¼-inch-diameter foam cylinder onto the end of the shank. FRONT HOOK: Gamakatsu B10S, size 2. JOINT: #10 Tyger Wire with a 4-millimeter bead. THREAD: Size 6/0 (140 denier) for the rear hook; GSP 200 for the front hook. FLASH: Your choice of Krystal Flash or Flashabou. THROAT: Red deer body hair. HEAD: Deer body hair. NOTE: Pat Ehlers’s Articulated Diver is a new version of the classic Deer Hair Diver. Fish the fly like a topwater diver, or when fished with a sinking-tip or full-sinking line, it works like a crankbait. The foam tab on the rear end keeps the articulated fly moving up and down. Dean Bug HOOK: Saltwater stinger hook, size 1/0. THREAD: Chartreuse 3/0 (210 denier). BODY: Fly Foam. LEGS: Rubber legs. WING AND HEAD: Deer body hair. WEED GUARD: 20-pound-test monofilament. NOTE: This fly, which you may tie in almost any color you choose, slides lightly across the surface of the water. The action might be gentle, but the reaction of the bass is explosive! 66 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m look like hind legs. These flies come in an almost unlimited number of colors, and on some days, some colors seem to work better than others; I don’t know why this makes a difference—since all the fish are looking up into the sun and see only the silhouette of the fly—but it does. The size of the frog is another consideration. The largest poppers and sliders catch the biggest bass and reduce the number of strikes from the smaller fish, but all sizes of bass will all eat the smaller patters that are easier to cast. Deerhair flies work really well, but they tend to absorb water, so be sure to carry fly floatant with you. The “hard head” patterns—those crafted using foam or cork—float higher and longer, but they are sometimes more difficult to cast. PAT FORD More Floating Flies There are also standard deer-hair mouse patterns. These are also very effective, and obviously any giant bug or small critter that falls into the water is going to be on the menu; dragonflies, grasshoppers, crickets, lizards, and even baby ducks (don’t laugh, I’ve seen it happen) all become fair game to a hungry bass. Alan Zaremba has seen bass take snakes right off the surface, and his surface-worm rig actually resembles a snake swimming through the water. Accordingly, he developed a snake fly that is basically a long worm pattern with a reversed popper head to keep it on the surface. If you’re concentrating on surface-fishing action, you must figure out whether the bass prefer a fast or slow retrieve. It’s best to cast the fly onto shore, pull it into the water, work it slowly through the weeds, and then burn it back along the deep edge of the vegetation. Repeat this a few feet farther down the bank. You’ll be surprised how many strikes occur just as the fly hits the water. I think that using surface flies is the most fun method, but sometimes the fish are simply deep and not looking up. Fishing Deep Thadeus likes to work the rocks, holes, ledges, and dropoffs with jigs and weighted worms. His secret is to creep the jig along the bottom with the ultra-slow speed of a crayfish. Capt. Pat Ehlers has designed a number of neat bass flies for fishing deep. One resembles a Gucci worm, others crayfish, and some just look like mini aliens, but they all work very well with an intermediate sinking line. Try working them very slowly, then change retrieves and burn them back along the edge of the weeds or along a drop-off. It pays to experiment until you find a combination that works. However, I’ve found that the jig flies do not work well on a floating line. Alan also has a weighted worm fly that he ties with bead eyes and works in an erratic fashion. Make your worm flies from 4 to 10 inches long and in any color combination that suits your fancy; black, purple, and bronze seem to work the best for me. Finally, be sure to have a collection of Clouser Minnows in your fly box; some days they are Better known for his saltwater fishing adventures, author Pat Ford never looks down his nose at a hard-fighting bass. magic, especially if the bass are on their spawning beds. I always carry several grasshopper imitations and panfish-size poppers for all the bream, Oscars, and cichlids that inhabit the Everglades. Minnow imitations work when the fish are in open water, and you’d be surprised how many times you’ll find bass busting bait in the middle of one of the area’s zillion ponds. Your bass flies should be weedless; you can’t cast them onto the shore and drag them though yards of lily pads if they don’t have effective weed guards. I’ve found that 16- or 20-pound-test hard monofilament works best for constructing weed guards; just make sure that the weed guards do not prevent the flies from hooking fish. The best time to fish the Everglades is from mid-October through May. This is Florida’s dry season, and low water and cooler temperatures concentrate all the bass and bait into the channels. If you want to try bass fishing in the Everglades, contact Alan Zaremba or Thadeus Ragan. These guys really know how to find the fish, but it’s up to you to bring a fly or two that they’ve never seen—just to keep them humble. Pat Ford is a regular contributor to our magazine. He is also one of our sport’s foremost photographers. Pat lives in Miami. If you’d like more information about fishing in the Everglades, contact guides Alan Zaremba at [email protected], or Thadeus Ragan at [email protected]. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 67 MATCH THE HATCH by Andrew Puls I IN SPITE OF PESTERING THE BIG brown for an hour, I couldn’t make him eat. The fish had been stalking the back recess of an incredibly clear spring pond, complete with numerous upwellings of groundwater that made the sandy bottom bubble like a witch’s cauldron. Clearly, he was feeding; I could see the white flashes of his mouth. But it was getting late and I needed to get on the road, and on the previous cast, my fly, a Pregnant Scud, caught high in a willow. Trying to free it, I snapped the 4X tippet. I rifled through my boxes and settled on an unproven leech pattern, tied it on, and flipped it into the water a few feet in front of me. As the squirrel hair became waterlogged, I searched for the fish through the glare of the afternoon sun. Even sopping wet, the fly sank slowly, so I pinched on a small split shot about 18 inches above the fly. I figured I had only one honest shot at the fish, and then I really did have to leave. Mimicking Real Leeches According to the author, the best leech imitation is lightweight and requires few materials. After a few minutes, the trout completed another slow lap around the pool. I made one false cast and watched the leech land 10 feet in front of it. Miraculously, the trout stayed on track and saw my offering, which sank deliberately toward to the bottom. The big brown increased speed and charged. When a mere two inches from the leech, the trout stopped and inspected it. He watched the fly settle slowly just off the tip of his Yuck, a leech! We might recoil at the sight of these creepy creatures, but trout treat them as a valuable source of food. TED FAUCEGLIA 68 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m nose until sufficiently convinced. I struck at the flash of white, and the 22-inch, kype-jawed male leapt from the water. The Suspending Leech had earned its name, as well as a permanent place in my arsenal. Leech Biology Leeches are important components of most pond and lake ecosystems, as well as slower flowing sections of streams and rivers. They are segmented worms, classified in the same phylum (Annelida) as earthworms and marine worms (polychaetes). Members of the class Hirudinea, leeches 1 2 Tying the Suspending Leech 3 4 5 6 1 2 4 5 Wrap a thread base along the entire shank of the hook. Leave the thread hanging at the end of the base. Part the hair on a pine squirrel Zonker strip about two hook lengths from the end of the strip. Place the strip upside down on top of the hook shank with the part in the hair at the end of the thread base. Tie on the strip using about six tight thread wraps. Move the thread immediately in front of the strip and make another two wraps to further secure the squirrel in place. Wrap the thread to the very front of the hook. 3 Tightly wrap the squirrel strip away from you around the entire length of the hook shank. Overlap the wraps slightly in order to make the hair lie backwards. Tie off the squirrel strip with three tight wraps of thread just behind the eye. Trim the excess squirrel Zonker strip. Wrap the thread over the front of the wound strip to make the hair lie back. Pull a folded piece of Flashabou under the hook in front of the thread. Partially secure the Flashabou using about three wraps of thread. 6 Pull the Flashabou into position so that the strands are centered on each side of the fly and run the entire length of the body. Finish securing the Flashabou and wrap the remainder of the thread head. Whip-finish, clip the thread, and add head cement. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 69 Suspending Leech Hook: Gamakatsu SC15, size 6. Thread: Black 6/0 (140 denier). Body: Olive pine squirrel strip. Flash: Red Flashabou. MATCH THE HATCH 1 2 1 Start the thread on the hook. Wrap a thread base on the entire hook shank. 2 Lash a short piece of lead wire to each side of the hook shank. Make sure that the front ends of the wire are even and begin slightly behind the eye. Leave the rear ends of the wire strips unsecured. Tying the Magnum Leech 3 5 4 6 3 Clip the excess pieces of wire even with the end of the thread base and finish securing them to the shank. Whip-finish and cut the thread. 4 Remove the hook from the vise. Push the hook point through a 2-inch-long magnum rabbit strip. When pushed snug against the underbody, the front of the strip should be even with the front of the hook eye. Place the hook back in the vise and restart the thread. 5 Push the magnum strip out of the way. Tie a standard-sized rabbit Zonker strip to the top of the hook shank at the beginning of the lashed wire. This shorter strip of rabbit should be equal in length to the total length of the hook. 6 7 8 Rotate the vise 180 degrees. Reposition the magnum rabbit strip, and begin securing it to the bottom of the hook shank with about four tight wraps of thread. These wraps should be directly over the wraps securing the standard strip. Trim the strip even with the rear of the hook eye and clip off the edges on both sides. Continue wrapping the thread to hide the front end of the strip. 7 Fold a strip of purple Flashabou. Place the Flashabou under the head in front of the thread. Partially tie on the Flashabou with about three wraps of thread. 8 Magnum Leech Hook: Gamakatsu SC15, size 1. Thread: Black 6/0 (140 denier). Underbody: 0.035-inch-diameter lead or lead-substitute wire lashed to the sides of the hook shank. Back: Black magnum rabbit strip. Belly: Black standard-size rabbit strip. Flash: Purple Flashabou. 70 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m Gently pull the Flashabou into position so that it is centered on each side of the body and runs the entire length of the fly. Finish securing the Flashabou and build up the remainder of the thread head. Whip-finish and clip the thread, and coat the head with cement. Finish the fly by securing the standard-sized bunny strip to the underbody using a small amount of epoxy or Zap-A-Gap. comprise more than 70 species in North America, all of which are all hermaphroditic carnivores and range in length from less than one inch to more than four inches. While some leech species hunt and eat small invertebrates, we are more familiar with parasitic bloodsuckers. These loathed creatures attach to rocks, woody debris, and vegetation, waiting to ambush vertebrate hosts. Three sets of jaws, each with a semicircular sawlike structure, slice through the skin of their unfortunate victims. Most leeches are capable of two types of locomotion: crawling and swimming. Leeches crawl along the substrate by lengthening and shortening their bodies, alternately using their front and rear suckers as anchor points in an inchwormlike motion. The swimming action is of more interest to fly tiers and fishermen than the crawling, because a swimming leech is very visible and susceptible to predation. Flattening and extending their bodies, leeches glide through the water using wavelike undulations for propulsion. The majority of leech patterns attempt to imitate vulnerable swimming individuals. There really isn’t a whole lot to a leech. If not for the disparity in sucker size and body width from head to tail, it would be difficult to tell which end is the front and which is the back. From a tier’s perspective, this is great because effective patterns can be simple and made with only a couple of materials. The trouble at the vise comes from trying to mimic the undulations and near neutral buoyancy of a swimming leech. A Better Leech Imitation Most leeches aren’t particularly fast swimmers—they seem to almost hang in the water. Flies tied with stout hooks, beads, cones, heavy eyes, and excessive weight sink unnaturally fast, especially in the placid water you’ll most commonly use these patterns. Therefore, a fly designed to imitate a swimming leech should be tied either without or just enough weight to sink very slowly. Using semi-buoyant materials, like a Zonker strip, aids in creating a fly that swims properly. If it becomes necessary to get an unweighted leech down quickly, you can use split shot or a sinking line. In contrast, it is much more difficult to make a heavily weighted pattern sink slowly or suspend. Leech patterns weighted with lead, dumbbell eyes, and bead heads have a time and place, but not in an article dedicated to matching the real appearance and swimming behavior of leeches. The long length and flattened body of a swimming leech factor into fly design. Many leech recipes call for long-shank hooks, which can be effective but often render sticklike flies that don’t undulate. Long articulated leeches swim wonderfully, but tying them takes too long for my taste. After experimenting with many different patterns and materials, I’ve whittled my leech offerings down to two very simple patterns that use rabbit and pine squirrel Zonker strips. I’d like to say that my small Suspending Leech was the result of many hours at the vise and testing on the water. The truth is that I had a bunch of hooks that I originally bought to tie Clouser Minnows, several pine squirrel skins, and a long cold winter with nothing better to do than tie flies. The result was nothing short of a dynamite leech pattern that is quick to tie and swims and suspends like the real thing. The hook is what really makes the Suspending Leech effective and sets it apart from other patterns. I use a Gamakatsu SC15 saltwater hook because it is very lightweight and makes this unweighted fly almost hover in the water; in fact, the biggest problem with this pattern is getting it to sink at all. The short-hook shank is beneficial because it doesn’t require many wraps of squirrel to cover it, creating a more realistically streamlined profile. The wide hook gap is also advantageous because it accommodates the wound squirrel and provides a strong, solid connection to the fish. Begin the fly by tying the squirrel strip on upside down, leaving the front of the strip in the proper orientation to wrap around the hook shank. The inverted position of the strip seems inconsequential, and besides, there is really no top or bottom to the pattern anyway. A folded strand of Flashabou adds ample of flash to the pattern, especially considering it is usually fished in fairly clear water conditions. ally saw in lakes, ponds, and slow tailwaters. I figured I could get away with tying a bigger version of the Suspending Leech using a rabbit strip, but the thicker wider strip didn’t create the same profile when wound on the hook, and the fly looked more like a tadpole than like a leech. A Double Bunny style of fly tied using a magnum rabbit strip for the back and a shorter standard strip as the belly showed immediate promise, but keeping the strips positioned was difficult. A piece of lead wire, the same diameter as the hook and lashed to each side of the shank, solved the problem. This not only kept the rabbit strips from spinning but also created the flattened profile of what I have dubbed the Magnum Leech. The small amount of extra weight doesn’t seem to overly affect the action of the fly and is almost necessary to get the two buoyant bunny strips to sink at all. I chose to go with a very small amount of bling—just a strip of purple Flashabou on each side of the fly. To speed up tying Magnum Leeches, I step-tie them by first attaching the pieces of lead wire to several hooks. I then cut the Zonker strips to length, and poke a hook through each magnum strip before tying them. Be picky when selecting rabbit and squirrel strips for both patterns. Zonkers for the Magnum and Suspending Leeches should have hair that lies fairly flat; hair that is bent or sticks up will not produce the flattened profile of a swimming leech. These two patterns cover nearly every situation that requires a leech imitation. The Suspending Leech is great for sightfishing and blind-casting in shallow water or to street-smart fish. A black or brown Magnum Leech works when I need to go deeper, encounter turbid conditions, or see large swimming leeches. In fact, these two leeches have almost entirely replaced all the other bloodsucker patterns in my fly boxes. For your next adventure into leech country, give the old Woolly Buggers a break and tie up a handful of Suspending and Magnum Leeches. I guarantee you won’t be disappointed. A Big Bloodsucker Andrew is a trained fisheries biologist, and his education gives him a unique perspective into how trout live, what they eat—and how to catch them. Andrew lives in Montana. In addition to the small Suspending Leech, I wanted to have a beefier pattern to imitate the big bloodsuckers I occasionW i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 71 SALT WATER Column & Photography by Zach Matthews T THE FIRST TIME I EVER WENT FISHing for redfish, I was lucky enough to be in the canoe with a local master. Glen “Catch” Courmier had volunteered to be my boatman, Cajun cultural liaison, and guide. I tied on a pattern that was recommended years ago as a general-purpose saltwater catchall (I think it was some kind of shrimp imitation), and proceeded to strike out on the first half-dozen reds we slipped up on. After a while, Catch decided to sacrifice polite deference on the fly selection in favor of actually catching fish. He snagged my line, snipped off the whatchamacallit, and tied on a spoon of his own creation. Living as I do in a major city, I know how to spot a crack addict when I see one: throwing a fly-size spoon, all those redfish suddenly became junkies, and we started wearing them out. Afterwards, I was a bit bummed to discover that spoon flies are among the most expensive patterns you can buy in a fly shop (usually six to eight dollars apiece, but sometimes even more). There’s really no excuse for this; it’s just how things are. One of the advantages of operating a Web site, as I do, is that if you whine loud enough about a problem, every now and then someone will come through with a solution. That’s exactly what happened this time, and how I got turned on to Silly Putty Spoons. Getting Silly with Spoon Flies Silly Putty allows you to make just about anything out of epoxy—including expensive spoon flies! A Silly Solution Silly Putty, available at discount retailers everywhere for less than two dollars a package, doesn’t like to stick to epoxy. Some wise soul put two and two together and realized that this makes Silly Putty the perfect molding material for epoxy. In fact, with a little Silly Putty and epoxy, you can make darn near anything—including spoon flies. The process is more akin to lure making than to tying flies, but as a good friend says, when it comes to the ques- Are spoons real flies? Like the author says, when it comes to that question, we’re agnostic. What we do know is that spoons are a lot of fun to make, and they catch lots of fish. 72 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m tion of whether a spoon is a “fly” or not, I’m agnostic. Silly Putty Spoons are light enough to throw with any fly rod (even a 5-weight), and they sink nicely. The concave undersurface is the key to a spoon fly’s action. Coupled with a convex or bubble-shaped top surface, the “fly” wiggles and wobbles (or if you’re using a barrel swivel, even spins) like a wounded and very agitated baitfish. For this reason, redfish (and big trout!) absolutely love spoons. To tie the Silly Putty Spoon, start with a normal saltwater hook, size 2 through 2/0, made using heavy-gauge wire. I like a reasonably long shank, no shorter than an inch from the eye to the bend. Using pliers and your vise, bend the shank into a nice even curve, just about like a nymph or scud hook used in trout fishing. Cover the shank with a layer of thread, and set the hook aside. I also take a moment to prepare the Silly Putty. Roll the Silly Putty tightly into a ball to pop any air bubbles; then place it on your tying desk. Lightly press a concave shape into the surface using a dinner spoon. This is not the final mold for the fly, but merely a staging area. Pressing an infant’s spoon or even a manufactured fishing spoon into the surface of the putty completes the mold. I suspect you can see where we’re headed. First, mix a small batch of epoxy. Place a dab of epoxy in the mold. The trick here is to paint the epoxy up the sides of the mold; this way, surface tension will give you a nice concave shape that will help your fly wiggle. (This is also why it’s okay to make a slightly deeper mold.) Don’t overkill it with the epoxy; you’re going to add more later, anyway, and you don’t want this to be too thick. Place just enough epoxy in the mold to make the spoon shape and be thick enough to cover the hook shank. And it doesn’t matter if it’s not perfectly even; you can eventually touch it up with a file. Once the epoxy is formed into the shape of a spoon, place your hook in the epoxy (point up, obviously). After the fly dries, gently peel the spoon away from the Silly Putty. Don’t worry if the epoxy stretches; just prod it CLASSIFIEDS FLIES & TYING MATERIALS GREAT FEATHERS, A Full Service Fly Shop. We carry ALL major Brands of fly tying materials and hooks but specialize in the hard to find for Soft hackles (spiders) and Classic wets, Marbury style, and Streamers. 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Ph/Fax (920) 430-1239. www.FurledLeader.com www.troutsmen.com Tis the season to remember your fishing friends (and yourself)! • Gift Certificates • Custom Fly Sets & Selections • Premium Flies tied specifically for the waters you fish • Collector Flies • Unique Gifts MyFlies.com where discerning anglers purchase exceptional quality flies and more! Visit us: www.MyFlies.com GUIDES, LODGING & INSTRUCTIONS TIEMCO Hooks 100 packs $12.50 - Tungsten Beads start $14.99-100pack. The ONLY Fly Shop / Guide Service Located ON the SOUTH HOLSTON River. Book Your Next Trip With Us. Lodging Available. 423-878-2822. www.southholstonriverflyshop.com For classifed advertising rates & information contact: Chad McClure (706) 828.3832 • [email protected] W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 73 SALT WATER 1 2 3 5 4 6 7 9 8 10 74 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m 11 Making the Silly Spoon Fly 12 Silly Spoon Fly Hook: Long-shank saltwater hook. Thread: 3/0 (210 denier). Body: Epoxy. More stuff: Fingernail polish, glitter, paint, and Krystal Flash. The Silly Spoon Fly is a form of fly rather than a specific pattern. Let your imagination run wild, and adapt materials to create your own custom spoon flies. 1 Bend the hook shank to shape. Wrap a layer of thread on the shank. Tie on and wrap some Krystal Flash up the shank. Tie off and clip the excess Krystal Flash. Tie off and clip the thread. Remove your hook from the vise. 2 Roll the putty into a ball; then press it into the table using a serving spoon. Next, use an old spoon fly or an infant’s spoon to make the final form in the mold. 3 Here’s our completed mold. It’s okay if the impression is a little deeper than the ultimate thickness of the fly. By brushing epoxy up the sides, you’ll help it make a concave face. 4 Mix a small batch of five- or the new seven-minute epoxy. (You can also use Clear Cure Goo or a similar UV-curing product.) Dab a small amount of glue into the mold. Paint the epoxy up the sides; then place your hook in the mold, point on top. back into shape and let it cure. It’s difficult to make epoxy dry in a curve because it is self-leveling. Before it has completely set up, place the bend of the hook in the meat of one hand (point away from the flesh), and use your other hand to slightly flex the shank from the eye, bending both the fly and the hook just a little more. 13 Make sure the hook is straight. The epoxy will flow back into the mold from the sides, so don’t use too much. 5 When the spoon is dry, remove it from the mold by stretching the Silly Putty. Don’t worry if the epoxy flexes some, too. 6 7 Bend the spoon “blank” just a little more to give it a concave underside. File or trim any rough edges with scissors or an emery board. Set the spoon aside until the epoxy fully cures. 8 Paint your spoon using nail polish, glitter, markers, or paints. I like to mix clear Sally Hansen’s Hard as Nails with glitter for a light sparkle. 9 When you’re done with the glitter and paint, allow everything to cure. Now is the time for a final touch-up with the file. It This, again, will give it concavity. From here out, it’s all creativity. I like to paint my flies with clear nail polish mixed with glitter. You could also use opaque nail polish, markers, or even dyes mixed into the epoxy. Once the paint job has dried, file any rough edges using an emery board, and then apply a light coat W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 75 may look a bit rough, but just wait until the two-ton epoxy smooths everything out! 10 For a clear, smooth finish, apply a coat of two-ton (30-minute) epoxy or more UV-curable plastic. I then place the spoon on a rotator to dry. (Let the coating level before curing if you’re using a UV-cured product.) Remove the fly from the dryer and let it completely cure for at least a few hours before putting it in your fly box. 11 12 13 Here’s our finished spoon from the top . . . . . . from the side . . . . . . and from the bottom. This “fly” will have an amazing swimming action in the water that will drive fish wild! of two-ton (30-minute) epoxy over the whole surface of the spoon. Zach Matthews contributes to many flyfishing magazines, including Fly Tyer’s sister publication, American Angler. He is also the editor of The Itinerant Angler Web site. Check it out at www.itinerantangler.com. Lee’s Baby Bird HOOK: Standard saltwater hook, size 1/0 or 2/0. THREAD: Size 3/0 (210 denier) or gel spun. TAIL: Orange over white bucktail, topped by root beer Angel Hair and two furnace saddle hackles on each side. BODY: White, orange, and brown deer body hair. EYES: 3-D Prism Eyes. Lee’s Baby Bluegill HOOK: Bass bug or stinger hook, size 2 or 1. THREAD: Size 3/0 (210 denier) or gel spun. TAIL: Olive marabou, black Krystal Flash, and two olive hen hackles on the sides. BODY: Gold, gray/blue, and olive deer body hair. EYES: 3-D Prism Eyes. Lee’s Baby Rock Bass HOOK: Bass bug or stinger hook, size 2 or 1. THREAD: Size 3/0 (210 denier) or gel spun. TAIL: Brown marabou, copper Krystal Flash, with two Brahma hen hackles on the sides. BODY: Cream, natural, and brown deer body hair. EYES: Red 3-D Prism Eyes. DH Sandeel HOOK: Standard saltwater hook, size 1/0 or 2/0. THREAD: Size 3/0 (210 denier) or gel spun. TAIL: White and olive (or tan) bucktail, pearl Angel Hair, with two tan or olive saddle hackles on each side. BODY: White, tan (or light olive), brown (or olive) deer body hair. EYES: Lead dumbbell eyes painted yellow. FLY PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID KLAUSMEYER 76 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m (Continued from page 80) created it herself, suggesting that she might not be able to duplicate it. So, when Orvis invited Lee to do a guest tying demonstration, she immediately accepted. On the scheduled day, she arrived at the store with her vise and tying materials, and got right down to business. About a dozen people watched Lee intently as she wrapped thread, spun and clipped deer hair, and worked her magic. In about 40 minutes, a duplicate little mouse pattern was all but ready to hop off the vise and go looking for some cheese, and any doubts about Lee’s abilities were put to rest forever. Lee’s love of fishing goes back a long way. Her grandfather introduced her to the sport when she was just four years old, but it wasn’t until years later that she tried her hand at fly-fishing. She had heard about Long Island’s famous Connetquot River, which is fly-fishing only, and armed with a fly rod that had been given to her, she headed over there to see what all the fuss was about. “The Connetquot was definitely the catalyst—that was what got me,” Lee says. “I couldn’t fish it with a spinning rod, and I wanted to fish there. It was a whole different world for me. I really loved to cast and lay the fly down so nicely—the finesse of it. The whole sport was very attractive to me.” Making Durable Flies For Lee, tying flies was a logical next step, and so she began tying at almost the same time she started fly-fishing. Part of the reason was her frustration with commercially tied flies. “Sometimes I would be disappointed with store-bought flies because I would catch two or three fish with one and then it would fall apart. That annoyed me very much. So, my whole way of thinking is make it so you can catch twenty fish on a fly, and that’s what I tell my customers. I say that’s my goal. If you come back and tell me you caught ten fish, okay, that’s good. But if you come back and tell me you caught twenty, I’m really happy.” To reach this lofty goal, Lee incorporates a number of techniques that make her flies ultra durable. The proof is in the catching, and as an example, she tells of how she caught 23 cutthroat trout on Sportsman’s Lake in Montana on a single Royal Wulff that she tied. She still has the fly, and though it’s pretty chewed up, she maintains, “You could throw it out there tomorrow and probably catch another fish with it.” In the saltwater environment, toothy predators are notoriously merciless on flies, but Lee ties tough patterns. “I have a sand eel that I tie; bluefish can chew on it all day, and it holds up really well,” she said. Stripers, bluefish, weakfish, sea robins, and fluke have all chomped down on Lee’s flies with the same satisfying results. Encouraged by the success of her patterns, and spurred on by the need for better quality flies, Lee decided to start her own business. Birth of a Business Deer Lee Beloved Custom Flies began in much the same way that many small businesses start: through local networking. Lee is a member of fishing organizations such as Trout Unlimited, where she often gives tying demonstrations and slide shows. Lee has served as president, vice president, and board member for the Long Island Fly Rodders. She is also a program coordinator for Casting for Recovery, and received special recognition from the State of New York for her work with that organization. In addition to enjoying all these activities, she met many local fishermen who began purchasing her flies. Lee’s early success selling flies encouraged her to branch out, so she began giving tying demonstrations at consumer fly-fishing shows and started conducting tying clinics. Word spread, and with it, demand—so that what had previously been just a small local market began to develop into something larger. I asked Lee if she had any plans to increase her production and expand the business. “I wouldn’t want it to get to the point where I wasn’t enjoying it; that’s what I worry about if I got into full-scale production. I’m not saying it’s not a possibility, but at this point, I enjoy tying—it’s more like an art and a hobby for me. I will definitely start doing more shows in the future, and get more into the business end of it.” Attention to Detail Flapala HOOK: 2X-long saltwater or wide-gap streamer, size 4 or 2. THREAD: Size 3/0 (210 denier) or gel spun. TAIL: Green, yellow, and white rubber legs with chartreuse Krystal Flash. BODY: White, yellow, and bright green deer body hair. EYES: 3-D Prism Eyes. Lee’s Grass Shrimp HOOK: 2X-long saltwater hook, size 8 or 6. THREAD: Olive 6/0 (140 denier). MOUTH: Olive rug yarn. EYES: Melted monofilament tinted green. ANTENNAE: Tinted green monofilament. UNDER-CARAPACE AND TAIL: Olive Super Hair. BODY: Mixed textured dubbings, olive, gray, and tan. CARAPACE: Olive EZ Body. Kicker Frog HOOK: Bass bug or stinger hook, size 2 or 1. THREAD: Size 3/0 (210 denier) or gel spun. LEGS: White and green Bug Skin. BODY: Cream, olive, yellow, and black deer body hair. EYES: 3-D Prism or doll eyes. Lee’s Mouse HOOK: Bass Bug or stinger hook, size 2 or 1. THREAD: Size 3/0 (210 denier) or gel spun. TAIL AND EARS: Synthetic leather. BODY: Cream and natural deer body hair. WHISKERS: Black Russian boar. EYES: Melted monofilament. Lee’s flies are among the most meticulously tied you’ll find anywhere. She employs exacting attention to detail, using W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 77 Shinnecock Silversides HOOK: 3X-long saltwater hook, size 2/0 or 3/0, bent into the Bend Back style. THREAD: Red Monocord and white 6/0 (140 denier). TAIL AND BODY: Pearl Mylar tubing. COLLAR: White bucktail. HEAD: Red Monocord Lee’s Sparkle Shrimp HOOK: 2X-long saltwater hook, size 4 or 2. THREAD: Pale pink 6/0 (140 denier). MOUTH: Tan craft fur. EYES: Melted monofilament. ANTENNAE: Brown boar hair. UNDER-CARAPACE AND TAIL: Tan Super Hair. BODY: Mixed textured dubbing—tan, pink, and coral. CARAPACE: Mixed Scribbles fabric paint. Striperburger HOOK: Standard saltwater hook, size 2/0 or 3/0. TAIL: White Fish Hair, pearl Angel Hair, blue Krystal Flash, with two dyed light blue badger saddle hackles on each side. BODY: White, light blue, gray, olive, and red deer body hair. EYES: 3-D Prism Eyes. Tiger Slider HOOK: Bass bug hook, size 4 or 2. TAIL: White marabou, gold Flashabou with 2 yellow saddle hackles on each side. SKIRT: Orange deer body hair with tips. BODY: Yellow, orange, and black deer body hair. EYES: 3-D Prism Eyes. 78 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m Statement of Ownership, Management and Circulation only the finest hooks and materials; Lee even dyes some of the deer hair she uses. Each fly is a miniature work of art, and is a deadly fish catcher. Lee spends a lot of time carefully selecting materials and tweaks her designs until they prove themselves on the water. Her obsession with detail can be said to border on the extreme, and she’s been known to go to great lengths to ensure accuracy in her imitations. In one case, she examined the stomach contents of a slew of striped bass to find out what they had been eating. To her surprise, they were full of grass shrimp. As a result, she developed Lee’s Grass Shrimp, a pattern that many anglers consider indispensable for catching striped bass and other species of saltwater game fish. Through her Web site, Lee offers standard patterns such as the Light Cahill, Adams, Stimulator, Hare’s-Ear Nymph, Woolly Bugger, as well as a number of her original freshwater flies. I asked her what was new in that regard. “I have an Isonychia that I tie with a biot body. I use hen-hackle wings, and it’s very realistic. I tie the wings at a little bit of a different angle so that I can see them better on the water. The fish seem to like it a lot, so I’m happy with that one—that one’s working well.” Lee also recently fished an original new emerger pattern which she and her husband, Jeff Farrell, tested in North Carolina. “I just took that down there, and I believe Jeff caught nineteen fish on it, and I had twenty-two—it was just crazy fishing.” Lee also offers foam flies, streamers, and bass bugs that she custom ties. Lee has tied some of her more creative—and whimsical—flies in the color patterns of professional sports teams. She even tied a custom order in the colors of the Irish flag. This is the kind of originality that has earned her a reputation as a top tier on Long Island, and is gaining her recognition far beyond her local waters. Lee has a special passion for tying deer-hair bass bugs. This interest arose from her forays fishing for smallmouth bass on New York’s Hudson River. Despite the decline in this well-known but recovering fishery, she continues to fish there regularly, throwing big bushy flies that she designs herself. Custom Flies for Special Situations Lee is a custom tier, and fills orders for flies according to such factors as the geographical location, time of year, and the terrain or aquatic environment her clients will be fishing. Once she has this information, she’ll tie what she thinks is going to work for that particular locale. Orders come from all over the country and even such exotic locations as Andros in the Bahamas, where bonefish anglers have been very successful with Lee’s patterns, most notably her Grass Shrimp. One of her clients called to tell her that he caught 23 fish of five different species with this one pattern, while another from New Zealand swears by her version of Polly Rosborough’s famous Casual Dress, which she ties in a variety of colors. Over in Barnegat, New Jersey, a client has been catching striped bass on a new fly Lee recently developed called the Shinnecock Silversides. This pattern has also proved successful on Long Island, and will almost certainly be effective anywhere small baitfish are prevalent. Lee knows through personal experience and the feedback from clients that her flies catch fish, and believes that once a customer tries them, they’ll be back for more. “Once you tie flies for somebody and they work real well,” she says, “they’re going to come back to you. I don’t think it’s superstition or anything; they just believe that you have a way of tying it or weighting it.” In addition to the encouragement of her customers, Lee credits several tiers for helping her develop both her skills and business. She regards Tom Baltz as her mentor, credits Gil Padovani for building her Web site, and is quick to mention Bob Lindquist for showing her many tricks for working with deer hair. I asked her if it would be possible to sum up in a few words what fly-fishing means to her. Without hesitation, she said, “Fly-fishing never lets you down.” I don’t think anyone ever said it better. Jay Jacobs is a regular contributor to our magazine. In his real life, Jay repairs and restores fine stringed musical instruments. Jay lives in New York State. To see more of Lee Weil’s flies, go to her Web site, deerlee.lifr.org. W i n t e r 2 0 1 0 | 79 (Required by 39 USC 3685) 1. Title to Publication: Fly Tyer. 2. Publication No. 015-056. 3. Date of filing: September 15, 2010. 4. Frequency of Issue: Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter. 5. No. of Issues Published Annually: 4 6. Annual Subscription Price: $21.95. 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: PO Box 936, Augusta, GA 30903-0936. 8. Complete Mailing Address of the Headquarters of General Business Offices of the Publishers: PO Box 936, Augusta, GA 30903-0936. 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Address of Publisher, Editor and Managing Editor: Publisher: William S. Morris III, PO Box 936, Augusta, GA 30903-0936. Editor: David Klausmeyer, PO Box 810, Arlington, VT 05250. Managing Editor: Russ Lumpkin, PO Box 1207, Augusta, GA 30903-1207. 10. Owners: MCC MAGAZINES, LLC, PO Box 936, Augusta, GA 30903-0936, a wholly-owned subsidiary of QUESTO INC., PO Box 936, Augusta, GA 30903-0936, stockholders of QUESTO INC., Augusta, GA, owning more than 1% of the outstanding stock are: W. S. Morris III, Augusta, GA: Mary E. Morris, Augusta, GA; W. S. Morris IV, Augusta, GA; J. Tyler Morris, Augusta, GA; Susie Morris Baker, Augusta, GA; THE MORRIS FAMILY LIMITED PARTNERSHIP, Augusta, GA. 11. Known Bondholders, Mortgagee and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1% or More of the Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages or Other Securities: None to report. 13. Fly Tyer. 14. Issue Date for Circulation Below: Autumn 2010. 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation: 15A. Total Number of Copies (Net press run): Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 51,722; Actual No. Copies of Single Issues Published Nearest to Filing Date: 51,077. 15B. Paid Circulation (By Mail and Outside the Mail): 1. Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 (Include advertiser’s proof and exchange copies): Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 21,968; Actual No. of Single Issues Published Nearest to Filing Date: 21,492. 2. Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 (Include advertiser’s proof and exchange copies): Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Month: 0; Actual No. of Single Issues Published Nearest to Filing Date: 0. 3. Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Non-USPS Paid Distribution: Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 10,995; Actual No. Single Issues Published Nearest to Filing Date: 10,554. 4. Other Classes Mailed Through the USPS: Average No. Copies Each issue during Preceding 12 Months: 0; Actual No. of Single Issues Published Nearest to Filing Date: 0. 15C. Total Paid Circulation (Sum of 15b. (1), (2), (3), and (4)): Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 32,963; Actual No. Of Single Issues Published Nearest to Filing Date: 32,046. 15D. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution (By Mail and Outside the Mail): 1. Outside-County Copies included on Form 3541: Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 653; Actual No., Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: 673. 2. In-County Copies included on Form 3541: Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 0; Actual No. Copies of Single Issues Published Nearest to Filing Date: 0. 3. Other Classes Mailed Through the USPS: Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 0; Actual No. Copies of Single Issues Published Nearest to Filing Date: 0. 4. Outside the Mail (Carriers or other means): Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 0; Actual No. Copies of Single Issues Published Nearest to Filing Date: 0. 15E. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution (Sum of 15d. (1), (2), (3), and (4)): Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 653; Actual No. Of Single Issues Published Nearest to Filing Date: 673. 15F. Total Distribution (Sum of 15c and 15e): Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 33,616; Actual No. Copies of Single Issues Published Nearest to Filing Date: 32,719. 15G. Copies not Distributed: Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 18,109; Actual No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: 18,358. 15H. Total Distribution (Sum of 15f and 15g): Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 51,722; Actual No. Copies of Single Issues Published Nearest to Filing Date: 51,077. 15I. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation (15c divided by 15f times 100): Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 98.05%; Actual No. Copies of Single Issues Published Nearest to Filing Date: 97.94%. I certify that the statements made by me above are correct and complete. Signed: Michelle L. Rowe, Business Manager. Profile Long Island’s Master Bug Maker: LEE WEIL The durability of her flies catches both fish and fishermen. by Jay Jacobs Lee Weil brings a high degree of precision and enthusiasm to her fly tying. L ong Island native Lee Weil, a trainer and outrider of thoroughbred horses, had been tying flies since the early 1980s, and she had gotten pretty good at it. Lee got so good, in fact, that in 2005, when the local Orvis store announced that it was going to run a “Best Fly” contest, she decided to enter. The competition was formidable, and among the many entries were a number of flies made by some of Long Island’s most skilled tiers. In April, the store announced the winner: Lee had won with her Lee’s Mighty Mouse, a fanciful yet realistic deer-hair pattern capable of fooling even the wiliest trout. Lee graciously accepted the gift-certificate grand prize and the congratulations of most of her fellow tiers, but there was a little trouble in paradise: Upon seeing the exquisitely tied little mouse pattern, one person questioned whether Lee had actually (Continued on page 76) 80 | w w w . f l y t y e r . c o m Page 32 Page 26 Page 32 Page 40 Page 20 Page 40 Page 48 Page 56 Page 48 Page 62 Page 72 Page 62 Page 80 Page 68 Page 80