Sedona - Sunset

A
Travel Guide
Flagstaff & Sedona: Resorts, Things to Do in
Sedona Red-Rock Country, and More 2010
Sunset Travel Guide
Embark on an
Arizona adventure
3 | Red rock love:
Sedona has world-class scenery and
some of the West’s best art
5 | Sedona hotels:
Get rejuvenated at our favorite desert
retreats
7 | Soul of Sedona:
Spiritual power still runs strong here
9 | Desert delights:
Choose your own adventure in
Sedona’s red rock country
13 | Road trip: Phoenix to Flag:
Follow a family’s adventure in a land
of canyons and cliff ruins
10
5
3
2 Sunset Travel Guide
15 | Travel resources
cover: blackburnphoto (on flickr creative commons). Clockwise from top: david zaitz, dawn kish, Dennis Anderson
10 | Fall for Flagstaff:
Sunshine, great dining, and golden
leaves: “Flag,” only a half-hour from
Sedona, is AZ’s autumn capital
Sunset Travel Guide
Sedona’s striking landscape
right Strolling Tlaquepaque
Sedona has world-class scenery and some of the West’s best art
Sedona may be the most beautiful place in
the world. With its miles of trails leading
beneath red sandstone buttes, it’s a haven
for hikers and mountain bikers. But Sedona is
rich in ancient Native American art too, and
its gallery scene is among the most vibrant in
the West. The mix of culture and extraordinary scenery is a potent lure for Sedonans
such as wilderness guide Mike Krajnak, who
first visited the area when he was 12. “I told
3 Sunset Travel Guide
my family, ‘I’m going to live here someday,’ ”
Krajnak recalls. Even in three short days,
Sedona will leave a lasting impression.
Day one: Take a hike, gallery hop,
savor a sublime sunset
Drive—as most people do—125 miles up to
Sedona from Phoenix on Interstate 17 and
State 179. Even before reaching town, you’re
likely to make stops along the way, including
Day two: Soak in a pool, go clubbing
Sedona-style
Wake up with the local flavor at the Coffee Pot
Restaurant ($; breakfast and lunch daily. 2050 W.
State 89A; 928/282-6626), which offers 101 vari-
dawn kish (2)
Red rock love
exploring the first red rock formations you
encounter, in the Village of Oak Creek.
Coconino National Forest’s Cathedral Butte
and Bell Rock act as a gateway to red rock
country. To explore the terrain, take the easy
4.2-mile Courthouse Butte Loop ($5 per vehicle; off State 179, north of the Village of Oak
Creek); the trailhead is busy, but the trail
quickly leads into wilderness.
Sedona didn’t grow up around a historic
central plaza like Santa Fe did, but it does
have Tlaquepaque (336 State 179; www.tlaq.com
or 928/282-4838), a sycamore-shaded complex
of galleries, boutiques, and restaurants. Here,
Southwestern-influenced French cuisine has
made René at Tlaquepaque ($$$; lunch and
dinner daily; 928/282-9225) famous as an
elegant dinner destination. But it’s also great
for lunch, especially if you get a patio table.
You could easily lose an afternoon gallery
hopping at Tlaquepaque. At El Prado Gallery
(928/282-7390), the towering wind sculptures
by Lyman Whitaker are bound to catch your
attention. And with its sculptural art-glass
pieces, Kuivato Glass Gallery (928/282-1212) is
one of Sedona’s most distinctive gallery
spaces.
Sedona has some of the world’s best
sunsets, and pullouts and trails off Airport
Road offer ideal vantage points. A lesserknown option that many locals prefer is the
moderate, 4.5-mile one-way Girdner Trail (in
Coconino National Forest, $5 per vehicle; off State
89A, across from Sedona Cultural Park). After the
last light fades, head to dinner at L’Auberge
Restaurant on Oak Creek ($$$$; 301 L’Auberge
Ln.; 928/282-1661), the award-winning restaurant at the luxurious L’Auberge de Sedona
resort (see Sedona hotels, page 5).
Sunset Travel Guide
Browsing rugs at Gardland’s
above Soldier Pass left The
wares at Kuivato Glass Gallery
eties of omelets as well as breakfast burritos.
The outdoor possibilities around Sedona
are endless, but even with such abundance,
few areas offer as much to see over a short
distance as Soldier Pass Trail (in Coconino
National Forest, $5 per vehicle; from State 89A,
go north on Soldier Pass Road for 11/2 miles, then
turn right on Rim Shadows Dr.; continue 1/4 mile
to trailhead parking on the left). On the moderate 4.5-mile round-trip, you’ll first pass the
giant sinkhole at Devils Kitchen before
coming to the meditative Seven Sacred
Pools, a series of eroded-rock basins. The
trail continues to a set of arches, which can
be reached with some rock scrambling.
Pick up a vegetarian lunch to go from
4 Sunset Travel Guide
Chocola Tree ($; 671 State 179; 928/282-2997) at
Hillside Shopping Center, then head out to
Palatki Red Cliffs Heritage Site (9:30–3:30 daily,
reservations required; $5 per vehicle; off State 89A
on Forest Rd. 525; 928/282-3854), a Sinagua site
16 miles west of Sedona. Palatki has the
remains of structures that date back nearly
900 years. The real attractions, however, are
the distinctive Native American petroglyphs
and pictographs, including animal figures that
eventually turned black as soot from cooking
fires adhered to the pigment.
Sedona is not an after-dark hot spot, but
Dahl & DiLuca ($$$; dinner daily. 2321 W. State
89A; 928/282-5219) brings a romantic supperclub atmosphere to town. On Saturday nights,
Day three: Carbo-load, conquer a peak,
shop for art
Start the day in the Village of Oak Creek, and
carbo-load for a morning of exploring with
some coffee and pastries at Desert Flour
Bakery ($; breakfast and lunch daily; 6446 State
179, Village of Oak Creek; 928/284-4633). You’ll
definitely need energy for the short but steep
0.7-mile, nearly 700-foot climb up Cathedral
Rock Trail. It’s a must-do for Type-A, conquerthe-rocks sorts. If you’re not in a world-beater
mood, stay on the easier Templeton Trail.
(Both trails in Coconino National Forest, $5 per
vehicle. To reach the trailhead for both, exit State
179 north of the Village of Oak Creek at Back O’
Beyond Rd. and continue west 1 mile to parking
area; 928/282-4119.)
As meditative as a hike in this high desert
can be, so too is a stop at the landmark
Chapel of the Holy Cross (9–5 daily; free; from
State 179, take Chapel Rd. 3/4 mile east; 928/2824069), a striking modern structure with
commanding views.
For lunch, the eclectic cuisine at the Heartline Café ($$$; lunch and dinner daily; 1610 W.
State 89A; 928/282-0785)—from a hoisin–
portabella mushroom wrap to pecan-crusted
local trout—has helped make it a Sedona
institution.
Take the afternoon to do more gallery
hopping. Across State 179 from Tlaquepaque,
the Gallery District has several. For more
traditional Native American crafts, Garland’s
Navajo Rugs (411 State 179; 928/282-4070) offers
a huge selection, including rare and antique
rugs. Be sure to take a drive into scenic Oak
Creek Canyon to browse Garland’s Indian
Jewelry (3953 N. State 89A; 928/282-6632) too.
The James Ratliff Gallery (431 State 179;
928/282-1404) in the Hozho Center shows the
katsina-inspired ceramics of Four Corners
artist Molly Heizer and the distinctive landscapes of Myrna Harrison, a Wickenburg artist
and onetime student of Hans Hofmann.
During a Sedona visit, it’s sometimes difficult to choose between gallery hopping and
boulder hopping in the red rock. But if that
choice seems daunting, take some comfort in
the fact that, like trail guide Mike Krajnak,
you’ll be back.
dawn kish (3)
the joint is hopping, especially when the Bebe
Neuwirth-esque Lisa Dahl (who owns the
restaurant with partner Andrea DiLuca) sings
“They Can’t Take that Away from Me.”
Sunset Travel Guide
Sedona hotels
Get rejuvenated at our favorite desert retreats
Adobe Grand Villas. There’s nothing subtle
about this place. “Grand,” in this case, refers
both to over-the-top amenities and enormous proportions. The villas contain living
room and bathroom fireplaces, cascading
waterfall showers, giant jetted whirlpool
tubs, and, curiously, electric bread makers—
guests check in to the aroma of freshly baked
breakfast provisions. Whimsical decorative
themes run the gamut, from rustic mountain
5 Sunset Travel Guide
to formal Tuscan (the latter with soaring
columns and a travertine-marble bathroom).
Guests can splash around in a small, lagoonstyle swimming pool or work off those bread
carbs in the gym and steam room. From $399;
www.adobegrandvillas.com or 800/228-1425.
Amara Creekside Hotel, Restaurant & Spa. A
lavish boutique property on the edge of Oak
Creek that’s situated at the end of a long,
serpentine driveway that is close to, but
insulated from, uptown Sedona. At first
glance, the russet and burnt red sandstone
façade of this low-slung creekside compound
seems to mimic the traditional Sedona style.
Inside, however, Amara looks almost selfconsciously sleek and urbane; the minimalist
guest rooms are outfitted with angular
modern furniture and bathed in muted grays
and tans, save for a few cherry red armchairs.
It’s all terribly sexy, if a bit cool. From $215;
www.amararesort.com or 866/455-6610.
Apple Orchard Inn. Built from native stone,
this ranch-style inn tucked among a few old
apple trees backs up to Coconino National
Forest. You can hike the 3-mile-long Brins
Mesa Trail, take a dip in the small pool and
spa, or simply sit among the junipers and soak
up the red sandstone views of Steamboat
Rock and Wilson Mountain. Out of the seven
rooms, most come equipped with jetted tubs
and private patios. From $115; www.apple
orchardbb.com, 800/663-6968, or 928/282-5328.
Briar Patch Inn. The gurgle of the stream,
occasional bleats from mascot sheep, and
rustle of leaves as breezes waft down Oak
Creek Canyon provide the background music
to these stone-and-wood cabins. Between
trees, catch glimpses of Oak Creek Canyon’s
ocher walls. Heap on the romance: doze
together in the large hammocks dotting the
Dennis Anderson, L’Auberge de Sedona
Sedona Rouge’s pool and
spa right Enjoy the view
at L’Auberge de Sedona
Sunset Travel Guide
garden, or share a bottle of wine on the
banks of the creek. From $219, including breakfast; two-night minimum; briarpatchinn.com,
888/809-3030, or 928/282-2342.
Canyon Villa Bed & Breakfast Inn of Sedona.
Luxurious B&B with red rock views and pool.
From $191, including breakfast; 40 Canyon Circle
Dr.; www.canyonvilla.com or 928/284-1226.
El Portal Sedona. This dashing property, a
cushy but laid-back adobe hacienda near
Sedona’s art district, is the brainchild of
owner Steve Segner, a devotee of the Arts
and Crafts movement of the early 1900s.
Segner searched high and low for lustrous
Utah river rocks, reclaimed juniper and oak
beams, and authentic Tiffany and Roycroft
furnishings to build and decorate this temple
to turn-of-the-20th-century design. Not
everything is period, however: In-room flatscreen TVs, DVD players, and high-speed
Internet might not jibe with the earthy ideals
6 Sunset Travel Guide
of Craftsman purists, but they’re a hit with El
Portal’s guests, who also enjoy spa, pool, and
gym privileges next door at Los Abrigados
Resort. From $199; elportalsedona.com or
800/313-0017.
Enchantment Resort. For a most soothing
Sedona experience, tuck yourself into
Enchantment Resort in Boynton Canyon. At
the hotel’s super-luxe Mii Amo spa, you can
indulge in everything from a blue-corn body
polish to the facility’s signature treatment, a
soothing bath amid crystals. The
24,000-square-foot, adobe-and-stone spa
opened recently on the scenic grounds of
Enchantment Resort and includes 19 treatment rooms, indoor and outdoor pools, and
the circular Crystal Grotto, the spa’s meditation room. Aerobics, hikes, and yoga are
some activities. From $325; enchantmentresort.
com or 800/826-4180.
L’Auberge de Sedona. Check in to your hill-
side cottage at this tranquil resort, where
you can wash off the dust in your alfresco
shower. Later, wander over to the new
Serenit–e Spa for an indulgent sage body
wrap (or opt to have your massage creekside), then kick back on your private deck
with a bottle of local wine. Rooms from $275,
cottages from $525; spa treatments from $65;
lauberge.com or 800/905-5745.
The Penrose Bed & Breakfast. Southwest
decor and commanding views. From $195,
including breakfast; 250 Red Butte Dr.; www.
thepenrose.com or 888/678-3030.
Sedona Rouge Hotel & Spa. The only thing
better than a gorgeous desert hike is the
massage that follows, and the Sedona Rouge
Hotel & Spa is your ticket to both. A 3-mile
lung burner to Chimney Rock is less than a
mile from the hotel. The payoff is a heavenly
massage at the spa, where therapists go easy
on the spiritual stuff but still make you feel
like you’re on another planet. From $199;
sedonarouge.com or 866/312-4111.
Rob Outwater/Outwater Productions, Enchantment Resort
A cozy room at El Portal
RIGHT The casitas at
Enchantment
Sunset Travel Guide
Soul of Sedona
Spiritual power still runs strong here
We’ve never found the Sedona that people
refer to with reverence as a “power spot”
—a place, like Stonehenge or the pyramids,
where energy from the Earth’s center is
believed to transfer to the surface. But on
this Friday afternoon, as we’re hiking past
broken red-rock towers rising out of a forest
of Arizona cypress, we feel a magnetic
(maybe it is a power spot?) pull.
Or maybe it’s just our new mind-set. After
7 Sunset Travel Guide
weeks of reading headlines about the Gulf oil
spill and the still-struggling economy, we’ve
decided to shake it up, at least for one weekend. We’ll hit the hiking trails we love, but
also take a pair of guided journeys in search
of the soul of Sedona—and a little personal
enlightenment as well.
Guide #1: Larry, the encyclopedia
Everyone Googles for all of their needs these
days, so we find it’s no different when we’re
looking for a shaman. Still, it seems wrong to
search the Internet for a spiritual guide.
We do anyway. And when Larry Sprague of
Earth Wisdom Jeep Tours pulls up, he’s not
exactly what we expected.
His accent is New York and his patter
George Carlin. We soon realize that Larry
would never call himself a shaman, but his
fascination with Native American culture
since boyhood has made him a student of
both Sedona and Native American mysticism.
Bouncing down the backroads, Larry
points out Boynton Canyon. It’s one of the
four areas in Sedona where (you guessed it)
that whole energy-transferring-to-thesurface thing is supposed to happen: a vortex
spot. The remains of cliff dwellings are scattered throughout the canyon, suggesting
that Native Americans understood the area’s
power long ago.
Larry gestures at the red-rock formations:
“Did you know they’re 260 million years old?”
As he talks, he pulls out tattered articles and
maps that connect the area’s geology to Hopi
mysticism. We find it helps to hear some kind
of physical explanation for an idea that had
always seemed a little too ethereal to me.
We finish the day atop a butte known as
Mystic Vista, which Larry tells us has been a
ceremonial spot for 2,000 years. Looking out
as the red rocks fire with the sunset, we
think, we’ve never been to this spot. And
thanks to Larry, we’re not sure we’ve ever
seen Sedona this way before.
jennifer cheung (2)
Rahelio, the man behind
Mystic Tours with Rahelio
right The Seven Sacred
Pools
Sunset Travel Guide
Sedona’s iconic red-rock country
above right D’lish Very Vegetarian
above left Garland’s Navajo Rugs
left Oak Creek Canyon
Guide #2: Rahelio, the shaman
If Larry was the (very impressive) student of
Hopi elders, then Rahelio appears to be the
real deal. When we meet up outside a natural-foods market, his long black hair and
intense gaze are commanding; he certainly
looks the part of a shaman.
He leads us to a spring-fed tributary deep
in Oak Creek Canyon north of town. The
canyon may be one of Arizona’s most popular
drives, but this spot is hidden: It’s verdant and
cool and feels a world away from the red rock
and desert terrain that Sedona is famous for.
As Rahelio describes the vortices and
Sedona’s energy, we’re grateful for Larry’s
primer the day before. Rahelio talks and we
8 Sunset Travel Guide
drift in and out, distracted by the castanetlike call of cicadas and the flicker of trout in
the creek.
We lie back and close our eyes, and Rahelio
begins drumming and rattling over us, asking
us to imagine that we’re walking down the
creek to a light-filled cave. We struggle for
focus, and then he drums directly over us and
we’re gone. To exactly where, we can’t say.
We’ll spare the details. We suspect other
people’s visions are not unlike other people’s
dreams: of intense interest to the participant
and boring to everyone else.
All we can say is that we went in search of
Sedona’s soul and discovered something
about our own.
FRIDAY Check into El Portal Sedona
(see Sedona hotels, page 5).
SATURDAY Pack a healthy lunch at
New Frontiers Natural Marketplace
(1420 W. State 89A; 928/282-6311), and
hike into Sedona’s red-rock country:
The 2.4-mile Soldier Pass Trail—
which leads past the terraced Seven
Sacred Pools—is a favorite, but the
area has a huge network of routes (Red
Rock Pass required; $5 per vehicle;
redrockcountry.org or 928/282-4119). Or
explore Sedona’s Native American and
spiritual sides on a guided tour. Try
Earth Wisdom Jeep Tours (from $49;
reservations required; earthwisdomjeeptours.com or 800/482-4714) or Mystic
Tours with Rahelio (from $55; reservations required; rahelio.com or 928/2826735). Finally, indulge in Sedona’s best
Mexican food—we love the lamb
adobo—at Elote Café ($$; closed Sun;
771 State 179; 928/203-0105).
SUNDAY Hit Sedona’s galleries. For
traditional blankets, baskets, and
pottery, head to Garland’s Navajo
Rugs (see Red rock love, page 3), or see
works by contemporary Native American artists at Turquoise Tortoise
Gallery (at Hozho Center, 431 State 179;
928/282-2262). Wrap up your day at
D’lish Very Vegetarian ($; 3190 W. State
89A; 928/203-9393), home to veggie
burgers that are good enough to make
you swear off beef forever.
jennifer cheung (4)
48 hours in
Sedona
Sunset Travel Guide
Cooling waters at Slide
Rock right Red Rock
State Park
Desert delights
Choose your own adventure in Sedona’s red rock country
Beat the heat
Slide Rock State Park is your Rx for cooling
off on a hot Sedona day: Wade across the
creek, sit down by rocks where the stream
narrows, then let the rushing waters whoosh
you down a 70-foot-long rock chute into a
deep swimming hole. Slide Rock, a slippery
natural chute, is deep within the sandstone
cliffs of Sedona’s Oak Creek Canyon. Along
with several adjacent swimming holes, it’s
part of the 43-acre park, which was once an
apple orchard. If you haven’t been recently,
9 Sunset Travel Guide
check out the old apple barn being restored
by volunteers. Bring your own eats and
spread out on picnic tables scattered
throughout the park or rock ledges near the
creek. Wear river sandals and sturdy shorts
to help smooth the few rough spots along
the chute. 8–7 daily. $20 per car; 6871 N. State
89A, Sedona, AZ; www.azstateparks.com or
928/282-3034. Creek waters can be closed for
health reasons; call the Water Quality Hotline
(602/542-0202) before heading out.
Take a hearty hike
You’ll find plenty of sunshine along Munds
Wagon Trail, a gentle 4-mile climb with jawdropping views of the jagged, paprika-hued
canyons. To reach the trailhead, continue
south on State 179, turn uphill onto Schnebly
Hill Road, then drive 1 mile to the parking area
(in Coconino National Forest; $5 per vehicle).
In Call of the Canyon (in Coconino National
Forest; $5 per vehicle), about 7 miles north of
downtown Sedona on State 89A, the West
Fork Trail offers up completely different scenery in the form of chiseled sandstone cliffs
sliced down the center by Oak Creek. The
creek itself makes this Sedona’s most popular
hike in hotter months—a good reason to take
the 6.5-mile round-trip trail now. Wear waterproof hiking boots, as you’ll be crossing the
creek via steppingstones at several points.
Stroll at sunset
Sedona’s rock towers and iron red mesas are
stunning at any time of year, but try seeing
this otherworldly landscape at sunset. Red
Rock State Park stays open late two nights
each month for guided 2-mile moonlight
hikes. If you can’t make it September 23 or 24
or October 22 or 23, ask a volunteer naturalist
at the visitor center to recommend a map
and a sunset walk you can do on your own.
$10 per vehicle; sunset hikes Sep 23-24 at 6 p.m.,
Oct 22-23 at 5 p.m. (reservations required, $5),
azstateparks.com/parks/rero or 928/282-6907.
mark_donoher (on flickr creative commons), laszlo-photo (on flickr creative commons)
Camp in a canyon
Set in shaded Oak Creek Canyon, Cave
Springs Campground is surrounded by red
sandstone walls and has its own creek—and
happens to be a great spot for first-time
campers. Insider tip: Hit the water holes at
Slide Rock State Park (see left), about 5 miles
down the road. $20; redrockcountry.org or
928/527-3600 Book it: recreation.gov
Sunset Travel Guide
Katsinas at Jonathan Day’s Indian
Arts below Hotel Monte Vista
Sunshine, great dining, and golden leaves: “Flag,” only a
half-hour from Sedona, is AZ’s autumn capital
“Mountain air makes you smarter,” announce
the signs advertising Northern Arizona
University. Hype or not, it’s true that, come
September, when the air in Flagstaff is crisp
as a Winesap and the skies are the dictionary
definition of blue, the return of 18,000 Northern Arizona University students gives
“Flag”—the local nickname—a Red Bull–
swigging, outdoorsy zing.
One beneficiary of that zing is Flagstaff’s
historic downtown, which, aided by some
10 Sunset Travel Guide
smart redevelopment, has climbed from
dowdy to vibrant. Along San Francisco Street
and Aspen Avenue rise superb early-1900s
buildings, the best of which were constructed
using the local Moencopi sandstone that
glows port-wine red in the sunlight. They’ve
been joined by an outdoor plaza, Heritage
Square, which hosts weekend concerts from
summer through mid-September.
Local art, local flavor
Downtown is compact enough that you can
stroll around making your own discoveries,
but there are a couple of stops you shouldn’t
miss. Flagstaff’s proximity to Navajo and
Hopi lands makes it a center for Native
American art galleries like Jonathan Day’s
Indian Arts. Day, who spent childhood
summers on the Hopi reservation, specializes
in traditional Hopi katsina dolls, commonly
david zaitz (2)
Fall for
Flagstaff
Sunset Travel Guide
Salmon on polenta and squash
at Brix LEFT Aspens bedeck Inner BasinTrail
usually good—and you’ll experience some of
the finest fall color in your life. A wide, mostly
flat road carries you into a seemingly endless
grove of aspens whose quavering leaves glow
like liquid sunlight. Above the trees rise the
peaks, and above them, that insanely blue
sky. Mountain air makes you smarter?
Yeah—you’re smart enough to be here.
What to do
Heritage Square Summer concert series: 4-6
11 Sunset Travel Guide
American Bistro has a relaxing bungalow
setting. But Flag’s best restaurant occupies a
brick carriage house two blocks north of
downtown. Chef Laura Chamberlin and partners Paul and Laura Moir opened Brix
Restaurant and Wine Bar a few years ago to
great success. Chamberlin uses local ingredients, like goat cheese from Black Mesa Ranch
in Snowflake, for seasonally inspired menus,
and pairs them with Paul Moir’s ambitious
wine list.
Hike into fall
Downtown’s charms notwithstanding, to
experience Flagstaff fall at its most exhilarating, you need to head out of town. Few cities
have so much good hiking so close at hand.
The best of the trails may be the 2-mile
hike from Lockett Meadow into the Inner
Basin of the San Francisco Peaks. Time it
right—the second week of September is
Where to eat & drink
Brix Restaurant & Wine Bar. $$$; 413 N. San
Francisco St.; 928/213-1021.
Josephine’s Modern American Bistro. $$$; 503
N. Humphreys St.; 928/779-3400.
Pasto Cucina Italiana. $$$; closed Sun; 19 E.
Aspen Ave.; 928/779-1937.
Rendezvous at the Hotel Monte Vista. 100 N.
San Francisco St.; 928/779-6971.
david zaitz (2)
called “kachinas”—“what the Hopi use every
day as opposed to what they make for the
Anglo art market,” he says. Along with the
katsinas, he offers fine Navajo and Hopi
baskets and blankets.
Across the street from Day’s shop rises a
true Flag landmark: the Hotel Monte Vista,
topped by a neon sign that at night casts a
flickering glow over half of downtown. Built in
the era of the bellhop and cigarette girl, it now
draws goateed university students and arty
European tourists. They play pool in the lobby
bar and start or end romantic relationships in
the hotel’s lounge, then head to Rendezvous,
which serves cappuccinos during the day and
switches to martinis after dark.
If you want something more substantial
than coffee or gin, Flagstaff holds an increasingly sophisticated roster of restaurants.
Pasto Cucina Italiana on Aspen Avenue is
good for Italian, and Josephine’s Modern
p.m. Aug 28, Sep 4, Sep 11; 2-4 p.m. Aug 29, Sep 5,
Sep 6, Sep 12; Aspen Ave. between San Francisco
and Leroux Streets; www.heritagesquaretrust.org
Jonathan Day’s Indian Arts. 21 N. San Francisco
St.; 928/779-6099.
Lockett Meadow to Inner Basin Trail. Take U.S.
89 15 miles north from Flagstaff; turn west at
Forest Rd. 420. After 1/2 mile, turn right on Forest
Rd. 552 and follow signs to Lockett Meadow,
about 4 miles. From the meadow, hike 1.6 miles to
the watershed cabin, then continue straight for
0.3 mile to the Inner Basin. Peaks Ranger Station;
closed Sat–Sun; 5075 N. U.S. 89; 928/526-0866.
Sunset Travel Guide
Lowell Observatory’s grand telescope
above The Inn at 410 left The Scenic
Skyride
Where to stay
England House Bed & Breakfast. A 1902
home turned into a comfortable inn with four
rooms. From $129; www.englandhousebandb.
com or 877/214-7350.
The Inn at 410 Bed & Breakfast. Deservedly
popular, with 9 luxurious rooms. From $150;
www.inn410.com or 800/774-2008.
A Shooting Star Inn. Only 20 miles from Flagstaff, the solar-powered B&B—the dream of
innkeeper (and photographer-musician) Tom
Taylor—is smack in the middle of dark-sky
country. Guided by Taylor, guests can explore
the starscape with telescopes or binoculars,
then take home photos from his
12 Sunset Travel Guide
astrophotography cameras. From $195 per
night, including breakfast and astronomy
session; $25 for dinner and star-gazing only;
reservations required; www.shootingstarinn.com
or 928/606-8070.
Weatherford Hotel. The nightly live music at
this inn’s popular pub keeps the friendly spirits
at bay until well after midnight. In the wee
hours, though, you just might catch a glimpse
of the ghostly man and woman who allegedly
visit guest rooms and float through the closed
doors of this restored 1897 hotel. Eight rooms,
some with private baths. Rooms with shared
bath from $49, with private bath from $89; www.
weatherfordhotel.com or 928/779-1919.
Elevate your gaze There are few
better places to ponder the vagaries of
man, the universe, and astronomical
fame than Lowell Observatory, which
sits on a pine-covered hill above Flagstaff. Lowell is here because in the
1890s a rich, eccentric Bostonian
named Percival Lowell became fascinated by the planets and realized that
northern Arizona, with its high altitudes and clear skies, would be a great
place to look at them. He was so right.
1400 W. Mars Hill Rd., Flagstaff, AZ;
www.lowell.edu or 928/233-3211.
Elevate your spirits It’s hot and
you’re thirsty, so pull up a stool at the
Flagstaff Brewing Company, downtown on Route 66. You’ll find a roster of
nine beers, four of which are brewed
on-site, including two summertime
classics—hefeweizen and spruce tip
ale. Naturally, the best time to savor a
pint is happy hour (4:30 p.m.–6:30 p.m.
Mon–Fri), when you get a buck off the
already cheerful price of $4. Come back
on a Saturday night for another cool
summer tradition: the outdoor Party on
the Patio (10 p.m. Sat), featuring live
music and, yes, more beer. $; 16 E. Route
66; flagbrew.com or 928/773-1442.
Elevate yourself When it’s not the
time of year for swooshing down, head
upward on Arizona Snowbowl ski
resort’s Scenic Skyride is a 25-minute
chairlift through pines and aspens to
an 11,500-foot-high ridge on Mt. Agassiz. You’ll get gorgeous views of the
surrounding Colorado Plateau, including the Grand Canyon, roughly 70 miles
away. Base camp is worth exploring,
too. Meadows and forests below the
chairlift are at 9,000-some feet, cool
enough for hiking, a round of disc golf
on the 18-hole course that zigzags
across grassy ski runs, or a burger
alfresco on the sundeck of the adjacent
Ski Lift Lodge Restaurant ($$). $12, $
ages 8-12; www.arizonasnowbowl.com or
928/779-1951.
clockwise from top: Tom Taylor, IvyMike (on flickr creative commons), Tom Story
More ways to let
Flag fly high
Sunset Travel Guide
Road trip:
Phoenix to Flag
Follow a family’s adventure in a land of canyons and cliff ruins
By car
The Diller family flew into Phoenix from
Albany, Oregon, and drove north, with the
goal of getting to Flagstaff for a family
reunion. Along the way, they explored
ancient dwellings, canyons, and craters that
delighted the two Diller kids. First stop: the
1,000-year-old cliff ruins of Montezuma
Castle National Monument. “There’s a
1/3-mile loop trail around the cliff base of the
castle, a huge, five-story ancient building
13 Sunset Travel Guide
perched high up in a limestone wall,” says
Denise Diller. “My 5-year-old son, Kyle, kept
asking my husband and me, ‘How did the
people get up there?’ ” $5; call for ranger talks
schedule; 2800 Montezuma Castle Hwy.; nps.
gov/moca or 928/567-3322.
Afterward, the Dillers drove north through
Sedona and lush Oak Creek Canyon, a
verdant canyon lined with swimming holes
and picnic stops. “We were amazed at how
the red rock contrasted with the green of the
trees—it was quite a bit different from how
we pictured Arizona,” says Diller. $5 day pass;
off State 89A, just north of Sedona; redrock
country.org
In summer, locals flock to Slide Rock State
Park to shoot down the natural waterslides.
The Dillers did a drive-by. “From the road, we
saw tons of people having a blast,” says
Diller. See Desert delights, page 9.
designatednaphour (on flickr creative commons), sarcozona (on flickr creative commons)
Wupatki Below Sunset
Crater Volcano
Sunset Travel Guide
More don’t-miss
stops on the route
From Slide Rock, the family continued on
to Flagstaff, which they used as their base for
exploring the area over the next few days.
First stop: Sunset Crater Volcano National
Monument, where “we walked the loop trail
at the crater’s base, winding through volcanic landscape,” says Diller. $5; off U.S. 89, 12
miles north of Flagstaff; nps.gov/sucr
Next up: Wupatki National Monument. “It
was massive—four stories tall. We explored
an ancient community building; a ball court;
and the blowhole, a crack in the earth where
cold air comes up from the ground,” says
Diller. $5; Wupatki Loop Rd. off U.S. 89; nps.gov/
wupa
Diller and her family made a final stop at
14 Sunset Travel Guide
the Arboretum of Flagstaff, with its thousands
of species of wildflowers. “They had great,
really diverse high desert gardens.” $7, $3 ages
6–17; tours daily Apr-Oct 11 a.m., 1 p.m., and 3
p.m.; 4001 S. Woody Mountain Rd; thearb.org
The route From Phoenix, the Dillers took
Interstate 17 north to State 179, then followed
State 89A through Oak Creek Canyon. From
89A, they took Interstate 17 to Flagstaff.
By train
After the reunion, the Diller clan hopped the
train back home. They took the Southwest
Chief from Flagstaff to Los Angeles, then
caught the Coast Starlight all the way home.
“The Coast Starlight runs part way along
Between Flagstaff and Seattle, by
train
Los Angeles’ Union Station, a Spanish
Colonial Revival palace featured in the
movie The Italian Job, is home to one of
L.A.’s best restaurants, Traxx ($$$;
closed Sun; 213/625-1999). Historic
Olvera Street is just steps away.
Santa Barbara’s station is on buzzy
shop-lined State Street and a few
blocks from the palm-lined beach.
Eugene, Oregon’s station is three
blocks from the Fifth Street Public
Market (5stmarket.com), a 1929 building
that houses cafes, wine bars, and artisans’ shops.
Info If you plan to break up the trip,
be sure to buy a separate ticket for
each leg.
the coast. Sometimes it feels like it’s going
right down to the sand,” says Diller. “I’m
from Oregon but I saw parts of the state by
train that I’d never laid eyes on.”
Info Amtrak’s Southwest Chief runs between
Flagstaff and Los Angeles (from $60 for a
reserved seat); Amtrak’s Coast Starlight runs
between Los Angeles and Seattle (from $102
for a reserved seat); amtrak.com
Clockwise from top: Bryan Davidson (on flickr creative commons), sarcozona
(on flickr creative commons), peterrieke (on flickr creative commons)
Arboretum of Flagstaff
above Montezuma Castle
left Montezuma Well
Between Phoenix and Flagstaff, by car
Cool off Eleven miles north of Montezuma Castle National Monument is
Montezuma Well, a bright blue (at
least when the sky is clear) limestone
sinkhole. Trails lead around the well
and to Beaver Creek. Free; 5525 Beaver
Creek Rd., Rimrock; nps.gov/moca
Lunch break The old-fashioned deli
at the Indian Gardens Country Store,
in Sedona, has delicious sandwiches. $;
3951 N. State 89A; 928/282-7702.
Swimming hole If Slide Rock is too
crowded, try Grasshopper Point, a
cliffside swimming hole (wear water
sandals). $5 per vehicle; 2 miles north of
Sedona on State 89A; www.fs.fed.us/r3/
coconino
Scenic drive Near Flagstaff, the
Around the Peaks Loop has terrific
mountain views. From U.S. 89, take
Forest Rd. 418 west, then head west on
Forest Rd. 151, and south on U.S. 180;
www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino
Spend the night See Flagstaff fall,
page 10.
Sunset Travel Guide
Travel
resources
Find more inspiration for travel in the West
on Sunset.com
16 amazing SW campgrounds
Whether you want to hike the Grand Canyon or fly-fish in New
Mexico, you’ll find the perfect campground on our list of faves.
Get tips on choosing spots to suit first-time campers, a family
trip, those seeking utter seclusion, and more.
www.sunset.com/travel/outdoor-adventure/
Get away to our favorite hot springs, historic hideaways, and
awe-inspiring national parks this fall. Beat the crowds, enjoy
lower temperatures, and revel in regional art and striking beauty
in spots like Zion National Park, Taos, Gila Wilderness, and more.
www.sunset.com/travel
Sunset.com/Travel
Your ultimate resource for travel in the
West, Sunset Travel is packed with tips
on the best places to go, from National
Parks to urban retreats. Get inspired
with Sunset’s ideas for fun weekend
trips or the ultimate Western vacation.
www.sunset.com/travel
Arizona desert
road trip
Take a memorable spin through the
Great Basin, the Mojave, and the
Sonoran deserts, hitting Western art,
great eats, and iconic Southwestern
scenery along the way.
www.sunset.com/travel/southwest
15 Sunset Travel Guide
Clockwise from left: dave lauridsen, national park service, edward mccain
7 ways to soak up autumn in the
Southwest
Sunset Travel Guide
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