Jelenia Góra
Transcription
Jelenia Góra
Public transport ul. Wolności 145, Jelenia Góra tel. 0048 75 76 48 736 www.mzk.jgora.pl Bus lines • to Cieplice: 4, 6, 7, 9, 14, 15, 17, 23, 26, 27, night line • to Sobieszów: 7, 9, 15, night line • to Jagniątków: 15 TAXI Jelenia Góra • Radio Taxi 96 22 tel. 196 22, 0048 75 75 22 777, 800 222 222 • Radio Taxi 9191 tel. 191 91, 0048 75 76 75 555, 800 144 911 • Radio Taxi Śnieżka tel. 196 21, 0048 75 75 35 835, 800 700 600 • Radio Taxi Mercedes tel. 196 26, 0048 75 76 76 550, 800 333 333 • Van/Lorry commodity transport tel. 0048 75 75 22 727 Różyckiego go kie Dr zy m 9 ały Złotnicza aK n Ja s iliń 1 Maja 8 a wic no Klo Ok i rze Kraszewskiego y zc a jsk Wo . l A l sk Po o i eg rtk Ba a owskie go 10 Tuw i ma ka Nowowiejs u St de k nc Kocha n cię wy aZ Jelenia Góra Index The MINOR JELENIA GÓRA CITY Centre ROUTE 7 Other interesting buildings alongside the Minor Jelenia Góra City Centre Route 24 The main Jelenia Góra City Centre Route 25 Other interesting buildings alongside the Main Jelenia Góra City Centre Route 36 Selected cultural events 38 Active Leisure in Jelenia Góra 40 Mini guide 42 The MINOR JELENIA GÓRA CITY Centre ROUTE As the legend has it, Jelenia Góra was founded by Duke Bolesław Krzywousty (Boleslaus the Wrymouthed) from the Piast Dynasty over 900 years ago. From the oldest times, the inhabitants of Jelenia Góra dealt with crafts, and primarily weaving and trading. The favours of rulers who gave the town many privileges allowed the city to flourish. In the 16th century, linen weaving was the main source of income of rich Jelenia Góra Burghers and their products were widely appreciated around the world. Delicate linen veils became Jelenia Góra’s showpiece. Unfortunately, periods of prosperity and wealth were interwoven with fires, floods and wars. The Thirty Years’ War had a most tragic effect on the city - Jelenia Góra was completely destroyed. However, contrary to all adversities, the city managed to recover from the rubble and kept developing to become a flourishing industrial centre and popular tourist destination in the 19th century. www.jeleniagora.pl 7 We suggest that you start your walk along the Minor City Centre Route from the place which, according to the legend, is related to the origins of the city. IIt is the so-called Wzgórze Krzywoustego (The Hill of Duke Boleslaus the Wrymouthed) which is located about 1 km west of the city centre. The hill is topped with an observation tower dubbed the ‘little mushroom’ by the locals. The terrace provides an excellent view of the city and the mountain ranges surrounding the Jelenia Góra Valley the Karkonosze, Rudawy Janowickie, as well as a part of the Kaczawskie Mountains. 1 WZGÓRZE KRZYWOUSTEGO There are a few legends about the origins of Jelenia Góra. One of them ties the beginnings of the city with the hill and Duke Boleslaus the Wrymouthed. As the legend has it, the Duke saw a beautiful deer while hunting on the top of the hill. Stunned by the beauty of the animal and the surrounding area, he decided to found a fortified town that would later become Jelenia Gora. The origins and the history of the local castle are of similar legendary nature. It was first mentioned in the 13th century. The castle was probably restructured several times by its Piast rulers and passed from hand to hand among Silesian noble families. Historical sources mention that in the 15th century the castle successfully managed to fend off a a Hussite siege. However, in 1433, the castle was torn down. At the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries, the hill, then called ‘Hauseberg’ (The House Mountain) and the ruins of the castle became a popular tourist destination. An inn was built at the peak and an observation tower ceremonially opened in 1911; the people called the tower‘The Emperor’s Tower’ (‘Kaiserturm’) in honour of Wilhelm I. The hill enjoyed unflagging popularity up to World War II. After the war the tower went through turbulent times. It has been recently renovated and remains a popular tourist destination. Observation tower on Wzgórze Krzywoustego @ www.wiezepogranicza.com free of charge daily 9.00 - 18.00 only from the outside From the Hill we should head to the centre along Obrońców Pokoju Street. Having crossed Podwale Street and climbed the stone stairs we should arrive within the perimeter of the Medieval defensive walls. If we turn right, we should reach a building which is one of just a few preserved fragments of old city fortifications – the Castle Tower. 2 THE CASTLE TOWER The tower is the only remaining element of the old city gate which protected the entrance to the city from the side of the castle. It was erected in 1584 in the place of an older tower – a 14th century building later damaged by fire. The lower part of the tower is cylindrical; the additional storey above has the shape of an octagon and is covered with a pavilion roof and topped with a metal flag with a deer – the city’s symbol – and the construction date. The walls have small cross-shaped holes used to fire small cannons on enemies. The tower was not only used for protection but also as a city jail. After the gate was removed, the gallery above the additional storey was used as an observation terrace. ul. Jasna @ www.wiezepogranicza.com only from the outside www.jeleniagora.pl 9 In the close vicinity of the Tower there is one more fortified building – strongly converted city tower called the Grodzka Tower. 3 THE GRODZKA TOWER It was built in the 15th century as one of 36 bastel houses used to reinforce the city walls. But its career as a defensive facility did not last long as in the 17th century it was adapted for housing purposes. In the next century it completely lost its initial use, was reconstructed and went into private hands. It was occupied by several tradesmen but also by very important citizens, i.e. a postmaster or a city doctor. After 1945 it housed council flats and since the 1970s it hosted cultural institutions, among others Dom Związków Twórczych (Creative Artist Societies’ House), the editorial office of the ‘Karkonosze’ monthly, and recently the Tourist and Cultural Information Centre. In the present form, it is a half-tower with an in-built, frame-construction residential building. The Tower entrance is adorned with a Baroque portal with an engraved date: 1679 which comes from a no-longer existing tenement house which once stood in Grodzka Street. Three other details inbuilt next to the entrance are reminders of the old building. ul. Grodzka 16 only from the outside Going further down Grodzka Street, we reach the heart of Jelenia Góra – the old Market Place. This is the place where for centuries the most important communication routes converged and trade, cultural and social life flourished.This is the place where for centuries the most important communication routes converged and trade, cultural and social life flourished. Today’s Town Hall Square functions as representative venue, plays host to cultural events and under the tenement houses’ arcades one may find rest, drink a cup of tea or coffee, eat in one of the numerous restaurants or go shopping. 4 Town Hall Square In the central point of the market square there is a building of the town hall and the entire square is surrounded by Baroque tenement houses which prove that trade was the original focus of the city. The tenement houses near the market place were settled by the richest citizens – traders, craftsmen, and stallholders – this was evidenced by once rich ornaments of the buildings; these were removed in 1960s during a reconstruction of the façades. The arcades were full of drapers’ and furriers’ stalls, bread benches and shambles. The Town Hall and ‘The Seven Houses’ The present town hall building was built in the 18th century. If you want to know more about the history of the seat of city authorities you should go down to the cellars where you can find Gothic and Renaissance remains of the predecessors of this building. The first one was built in the second half of the 14th century, however the brick seat of the authorities was built on today’s Town Hall Square only at the beginning of the 16th century. Subsequent fires ravaging the city resulted in its destruction, even though it was renovated a number of times. The present Town Hall was being built from 1744 to 1749 and was given a classical look. www.jeleniagora.pl 11 At the beginning of the 20th century the adjacent tenement houses were bought and adjoined to the town hall (the so-called ‘Seven Houses’). One obstacle preventing the integration of the main building with the tenement houses was a tram line running between the town hall and the tenement houses. The problem was solved by building a covered veranda at the first storey level. The so-widened town hall survived to the present day. The two-storey building is crowned with a tower with an onion dome, a clock, and a gallery where a trumpet player used to sound the city bugle call. You can enter the interior through two entrances. Over the southern entrance there is a Latin inscription saying: ‘The City was built by Boleslaus the Wrymouthed in 1108’ . While visiting the interior of the town hall, take your time to admire the sculptures of Ernst Rülke (a teacher of a famous woodcarving school in Cieplice) which grace the balustrade and a low relief in the Conference Room. Another worthwhile memento of the old times is a Medieval well discovered during the last renovation. Over the centuries, the town hall had many functions; above all, it was the seat of city authorities and a venue of city council’s meetings; however, other important institutions had their seats there: court, archive and treasury. Today the Town Hall houses the City Hall, the City Council and the Registry Office. Jelenia Góra Trams Tram communication operated in Jelenia Góra in the years 1897-1969. Today not much is left of it – just fragments of the tram line and a plaque set in the town hall’s wall, under the gallery connecting the town hall with the ‘Seven Houses’. The plaque was installed on the hundredth anniversary of opening the first tram line. On some buildings you can still find rosettes which were used as fastenings for the tram system and also tram carriages, one of which can be found by the north entrance to the town hall and functions as a souvenir kiosk (the remaining two are placed in front of the tram depot, in Wolności Street and at a bus terminal in Podgórzyn) The Neptune’s Fountain Right next to the town hall there is a fountain with a sculpture of Neptune – god of the seas. This may come as a surprise given that the city lies at the foot of several mountain ranges. The sculpture is to commemorate old trade relations with overseas lands. The fountain replaced an old city well in the 19th century. The Town Hall Square generally available Town Hall Plac Ratuszowy 58 0048 75 75 46 101 @ www.jeleniagora.pl during office hours ground floor only 13 We leave the Town Hall Square by taking Maria Konopnicka Street and later turning into Boczna Street to reach the oldest temple in Jelenia Góra – the St. Erasmus’ and St. Pancras’ Church. 5 The St. Erasmus’ and St. Pancras’ Church. Built in the 14th century, the chapel isdedicated to the Patrons of Jelenia Góra; however, it got its present form in the next century. The church was built of stone in the form of a three-nave basilica topped with a tower. Even today, you can admire numerous Gothic stone details best preserved in portals and window frames. The southern portal is exceptionally rich and interesting. Two sepulchral chapels (from the 17th and 18th century) were build into the church’s walls; over 20 epitaphs and tombstones from the 16th and 18th century wereplaced on the two chapels The main entrance to the chapel is located on the west, on the ground floor. The interior is also Gothic, but the fittings come from Renaissance and Baroque. The incredibly rich and monumental altar from the 18th century dominates the interior. The temple also houses priceless organs from the same period made in the workshop of an Italian organ builder – Adam Casparini. The 16th century pulpit and the intarsiated (made of different wood types) choir stalls are a little older. There are also two 18th century figures on the church grounds – the Marian column is near the main entrance, and on the northern side there is a sculpture of St. John of Nepomuk. It used to be located on one bridge over the Młynówka river; however, after it was damaged and then reconstructed in the 19th century, it was moved to its present place. Plac Kościelny 1-2 0048 75 75 22 160 @ www.parafia.jelenia-gora.pl upon arragements available If we want to go back to Maria Konopnicka Street, we may take Boczna Street or the narrow, low passage under the parish building. If we choose the second option, we will arrive right in front of the Wojanowska Gate and St. Anne’s Chapel. 6 THE WOJANOWSKA GATE Until 1775, this site housed an impressive gate strengthened with a tower; the gate allowed entry to the city from Wojanów (hence the name). After it was demolished it was quickly replaced with a new one - more modest, baroque gate with a wicket. Its function was to maintain order and serve as a tollbooth. The building lost its character with time. At the beginning of the 19th century it was disassembled and moved to the area of military barracks of the time, located at today’s Obrońcy Pokoju Street. It is preserved in good condition and in 1998, following comprehensive renovations, was returned to its former place. The gate is ornamented by Rococo cartouches with the emblems of Jelenia Góra, Silesia and Prussia and an occasional inscription. generally available 15 7 ST. ANNE’S CHAPEL The first bastel house here was built in the 15th century as one of the defensive elements of the Wojanowska Gate. In 1514 it was thoroughly rebuilt and started to be used in a double role as a bastel house and a chapel. Unfortunately, the building did not survive the Thirty Years’ War - it burned down in a huge fire in 1634. Some 100 years later (1709-1715), it was rebuilt according to the design of an architect, Kasper Jentsch. The modest fittings of the chapel were also made in that period, these include: a Baroque painting on the altar depicting the patron Saint of the temple, Saint Anne, with Mary and Baby Jesus, accompanied by Saint Joachim and Joseph. The original purpose of the building is evidenced by embrasures visible in the chapel walls. The east wall also features a plaque commemorating the 840th anniversary of the city, and below, a damaged reconciliation cross. ul. Marii Konopnickiej 22 0048 75 75 22 160 @ www.parafia.jelenia-gora.pl daily 9.00 - 17.00 only from the outside If we cross the Wojanowska Gate and advance further to 1 Maja Street, we may admire tenement houses with interesting and rich facades ranging back to the 19th and 20th centuries. Some tenement houses still hold the previously mentioned tram system fixtures (see ‘Jelenia Góra Trams’) in the form of rosettes. After a few-minute march, we arrive at St. Peter’s and St. Paul’s Church, 8 St. Peter’s and St. Paul’s Orthodox Church ul. 1 Maja 40 The church was erected in 1738 on the site of an earlier, Medieval 0048 75 76 78 822 church that burned down during the Thirty Years’ War. Until 1925, it www.jeleniagora.cerkiew.pl was a Catholic church, afterwards upon prior arragements it was closed and its fittings were in the seat of the parish removed. After the war the church was handed over to the Polish Auavailable tocephalous Orthodox Church, which equipped it according to its rite and dedicated the Church to Saint Peter and Saint Paul. The church is in a Baroque style and is topped with an octagonal tower on the west side. The only ornament on the facade and a memento of the old patrons of the church is a portal adorned with the image of the Assumption of the Virgin adored by angels @ The icons placed in the temple and the iconostasis date back to the beginning of the 20th century and were brought to the temple from the Orthodox churches from the Lublin region destroyed during World War II. The entirety is complemented by modern Byzantine-style frescoes made by Jerzy Nowosielski and Adam Stalona - Dobrzański. Two reconciliation crosses are set in the northern wall of the church (people call them atonement crosses) with two instruments of crime (a crossbow and a sword) craved in them. They are a testimony of the Medieval judiciary system – criminals were given atonement and they were obliged to compensate the victim’s family, a cross was then element crowning the process of expiating their guilt and reconciliation. 17 At the end of 1 Maja Street we arrive at yet another noteworthy destination - the Feast of the Holy Cross Church (the Garrison Church),, surrounded by a park with a complex of rich sepulchral chapels. 9 The Feast of the Holy Cross Church The temple was erected as a proof of grace of the catholic Emperor of Austria for the Silesian evangelicals. Under the arrangement concluded in Altranstädt after a religious war they were granted the right to build six churches in Silesia which at that time was under Austrian rule. The design of the temple was prepared by the architect, Martin Frantz of Tallin. The construction works lasted nine years (1709-1718) and the newly built church was deceptively similar to its prototype St. Catherine’s Church in Stockholm (the work of the same designer). The structure was erected on the plan of a cross and topped with a dome. ul. 1 Maja 45 0048 75 64 23 282 0048 605 938 513 @ www. kosciolgarnizonowy.pl IV-X mo. - th. 10.00 - 16.00 fr. 12.00-16.00 sa. 10.00-16.00 XI-III upon arragements PLN 4 available The interior was equipped with a threestorey matronea which could accommodate more than 2 thousand members of the congregation. The railings were adorned with citations and paintings displaying scenes from the Old and New Testament. The altar together with the organ front placed over it make up an extended, beautifully adorned architectural form. The very high-class instrument founded by a wealthy burgher, Christian Menzel, even today manages to retain a delightful sound. Similarly the sandstone pulpit and the marble front is the equal of the other interior elements as regards the craftsmanship. The park surrounding the church was formerly a cemetery. The complex of the 18th century tombs of wealthy burghers and their families is the only remaining element of the cemetery. There are contemporary statues and a geographical centre point of the city on the area belonging to the church. 19 After visiting the Garrison Church, we go back to 1 Maja Street and turn left passing the magnificent seat of the Jelenia Góra Culture Centre, formerly the Brown Deer Hotel. We cross Wojska Polskiego Street and turn right into Jana Kochanowskiego Street and after a few-minute walk we arrive at the building which currently houses the Secondary School Complex No. 1. 10 The building in Kochanowskiego Street The building was erected in the years 19081914 to house a higher vocational school (Obeerealschule). The school operated until the end of World War II when it was converted into a field outpatient department. After the war, the authorities restored the building to its former purpose and placed an educational unit – a national coeducational junior high school and a high school in it. These were the first two Polish schools operating in Jelenia Góra. Currently there are two schools in the building – a junior high school and a high school - which constitute the Secondary Schools Complex no. 1. ul. Jana Kochanowskiego 18 generally available only from the outside Stanisław Bareja, a Polish scriptwriter and a director, graduated from the Stefan Żeromski High School. He is known for films and comedy series such as ‘Miś’ (‘The Teddy Bear’), ’Alternatywy 4’ (Alternative Street No. 4’), ‘Zmiennicy’ (‘The Substitutes’). To reach another interesting building along the City Centre Route we must go back to Wojska Polskiego Street and turn left. Arriving at the crossroads with Sudecka Street we can see the target of our walk – the grand Art Nouveau C.K. Norwid Theatre. 11 C.K. Norwid Theatre At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries Jelenia Gora was a rich, thriving industrial centre whose residents led a busy social and cultural life. At that time there were numerous theatrical groups which visited the city and whose plays enjoyed great popularity; however, the city lacked an appropriate venue where regular plays could be staged. Thanks to the financial assistance of overlords and the generosity of residents the construction of a city theatre commenced in 1903 and was supervised by the very designer, Alfred Daehmel. The theatre was ceremoniously opened as early as in 1904 with staging the first play. The building was designed in the Art Nouveau style with features typical for 19th century theatre buildings. It housed restaurant, exhibition and party rooms, an auditorium, a beer cellar, a cloak room and utility rooms. The stage was equipped with all necessary equipment and the auditorium could house 700 people. The whole building had lighting (gas and electric), heating and ventilation. In its time the building was impressive and modern. The theatre staged not only plays but also concerts, ceremonies, scientific lectures, national holiday and religious events. The theatre greeted numerous theatre, opera and operetta groups from other cities but first and foremost it was a meeting place for local artists - amateurs. The turmoil of war spared the city and the theatre. During the Nazi occupation residents organized party rallies and propaganda events in the theatre. The theatre also collected the costumes of the Berlin Opera and immediately after the war the Polish actors team under the leadership of Stefania Domańska, used the costumes staging ‘Zemsta’ (‘The Revenge’) by Aleksander Fredro in August 1945 . Aleja Wojska Polskiego 38 0048 75 64 28 110 @ www.teatrnorwida.pl upon arragements only from the outside www.jeleniagora.pl 21 From the theatre we go along Sudecka Street to the centre. Bankowa Street is the last point on the route. At the turn of the 19th and 20th centurie, the street was one of the most beautiful routes in Jelenia Góra. It was surrounded by grand buildings most of which survived to this day. 12 Buildings in Bankowa Street Bankowa Street was built in mid 19th century in the place of city walls and a filled moat. It had the character of a city park with well-trimmed trees, beautiful flower beds and walk paths. It was called the Promenade. At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, it was one of the most representative streets of the city with restaurants, exclusive hotels, shops and banks. Part of the buildings survived but lost the richness of the decoration which contributed to its charm. Some of them have quite an interesting history. On the southern side of Bankowa Street there are: • a building erected at the end of the 19th century which was purchased by the Reich Bank and rebuilt to suit its needs. After the war there was the National Bank of Poland and then Bank Zachodni. Currently, there is a private medical centre there (5/7 Bankowa Street); • a hotel building which changed owners and names several times in the 1920s also changed its purpose. It was taken over by the city authorities who placed the social welfare institution and criminal section of the police with a detention facility in it. After the war it had similar functions – it was the seat of the Security Office and Militia. In the 1950s, it housed a medical outpatient centre (1 Bankowa Street). The buildings in the northern part of the street boast an equally interesting history. The most impressive are: • the former ‘Wiener Café’ is the most renowned building on the Promenade and the Concert House (‘Konzerthaus’) which until the city theatre was built used to stage plays and concerts. Even in the post-war times the building housed cultural institutions – today it houses the Jelenia Gora Culture Centre (28/30 Bankowa Street); • the building of the Silesian Banking Association erected at the exit of the today’s Solna Street at the beginning of 19th century, currently the seat of the District Court (18 Bankowa Street); • a tenement house from a later period on the opposite side of Solna Street which formerly housed a restaurant under the name ‘Black Man’s Corner’ (‘Mohrenecke’), whose symbol was a black warrior’s figure placed on the façade of the building (12 Bankowa Street). It is worth looking at other tenement houses at Bankowa Street. They create an interesting architectural complex with an unquestionable charm. generally available www.jeleniagora.pl 23 Other interesting buildings alongside the Minor Jelenia Góra City Centre Route Karkonosze Museum The museum collects exhibits related to the history, ethnography, crafts and regional art. Particularly interesting exhibits include the largest artistic glass collection in Poland, ample 18th and 19th century glass painting collections, collections of tinwork and an ethnographic exposition - a Lusatian-built wooden cottage equipped with traditional equipment used in the 18th and 19th centuries. www.muzeumkarkonoskie.pl Municipal Park on Kościuszko Hill The Municipal Park on Kościuszko Hill was erected in the 18th century, however, its history dates back much further. It is recognizable owing to the History and Nature Path marked out in the park. The most interesting stop on the path is the geological cross-section of the West Sudety Mountains. It was made from fragments of rocks that can be found in the presented areas. www.jeleniagora.pl/isieko/sciezka/ ‘The Karkonosze Library’ (‘Książnica Karkonoska’) Jelenia Góra Regional Information and Education Centre The „Karkonosze Library” combines the functions of a modern library and a cultural centre. The library houses meetings with authors, exhibitions, movie screenings, workshops, A ‘SmallForm Gallery’ and an innovative project ‘G@llery in the Background’ (‘Galeri@ w tle’). www.biblioteka.jelenia-gora.pl Lower Silesian Philharmonic in Jelenia Góra The concert hall of the Lower Silesian Philharmonic hosts many famous artists and the Jelenia Góra symphonists give concerts in Poland and abroad, participate in international festivals accompanying known persons from the artistic world and also support young talents. Concerts for the local audience, regional projects and educational activity are another vital part of the Philharmonic’s undertakings. www.filharmonia.jgora.pl The main Jelenia Góra City Centre Route Jelenia Góra has accommodated districts which once were separate towns and managed to retain their unique character and charm to date. Cieplice - known from the 13th century owing to warm, curative springs that gave it their name. Owing to the old owners of these lands, the Silesian Schaffgotsch family, at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries its fame extended far beyond Silesia and managed to attract flocks of patients, including many eminent persons. Today, the thermal waters reaching a temperature of around 90 degrees Celsius are still used for treatment. Sobieszów with the picturesque ruins of the Chojnik castle can take us back in time to the medieval times. And the charming Jagniątkow, lying a little on the side. It was founded in 17th century by Czech Protestants seeking refuge from religious persecution as a small settlement of shepherds, farmers and outwork weavers.Its tranquility and picturesque locations came to attract holidaymakers and tourists and among them, Gerhart Hauptmann, a Nobel prize winner, who found his place in the world in Jagniątków. www.jeleniagora.pl 25 The proposed entry point to the Main Jelenia Góra City Centre Route is the centre of Cieplice. The evangelic church, located in the direct vicinity of the Piastowski Square, is the landmark most worthy of starting your visit in this health resort. 1 Lutheran Church of the Saviour The church was built in 1774 - 1777. It is among the most precious Lutheran buildings of the Silesian Baroque era. The interior is simple, hall-like and its beauty lies in the Rococo fittings. The dominant element of the church is the altar, a true architectural treat. The wooden structure is adorned with gildings and sculptures with a painting of Christ, referencing the patron of the temple, in the centre. The wall over the altar houses an equally impressive organ front and behind is a 1927 instrument, the work of Gustaw Heintze, an organ builder from Żary. The entirety is complemented by a richly ornamented pulpit. The nave of the temple is surrounded by two-storied matronea. The interior is painted in white, the high windows providing excellent lighting to the interior further emphasizing its beauty. Plac Piastowski 18 0048 75 64 26 667 upon arragements available Until the 1970s the church was surrounded by a Lutheran necropolis. The cemetery was liquidated, the tombstones removed and the area developed, its only remaining memento is the so-called ‘Remembrance Lantern’ standing next to the church (from the side of Veteran’s Square – Plac Kombatanta). From the church, we are going Wright, soon to be welcomed by the sight of the most impressive building in Cieplice, the seat of its former owners, the Palace of the Schaffgotsch family. 2 Schaffgotsch Palace The Schaffgotsch family, ruling vast lands in the Karkonosze Mountains and at their foot, settled in Cieplice in 1675, after their previous seat, the Chojnik castle, burned down due to a stroke of lightning They settled in an old manor house which also succumbed to the destructive force of fire. Designed by Jan Jerzy Rudolph from Opole, the new seat of the family was built in 1783 - 1788. The façade of the building awes with its size as it is over 80m long and has three stories. Its greatest ornament are two semi-circularly finished porticos with richly ornamented cartouches carrying the family crest of the owners. The interior boasts richly ornamented early classicistic fittings. The most prominent room is the ball room with rich moulding adorning the walls and ceiling and flooring made of several kinds of wood. The two salons, yellow and blue, padded with silk fabric are equally plush. The other interiors have been rebuilt after World War II. The palace currently houses a branch of the Wrocław University of Technology. Plac Piastowski 27 0048 75 75 51 048 @ www.jelenia-gora.pwr.wroc.pl upon arragements www.jeleniagora.pl 27 Advancing on the Piastowski Square on the right side we will pass the buildings of the health resort. It is the Spa House (Dom Zdrojowy) with a well-room and pools used in treatment. You may be interested to find that in the 18th century this place also housed a pond used to treat animals called the „Horse Spring”. En face there is a free-standing bell tower at the foot of which is a gate leading on to St. John the Baptist’s Church and a monastery building. If we turn right before the gate, on the left side we will see the so-called Long House, deeper inside there are other buildings of the post-Cistercian complex and directly in front a statue of Saint John of Nepomuk 3 Monastic Complex of the Cistercian Order The monastery building was built in 1671 - 1684 and is a modest, two-storey building with a cloister. Currently it is occupied by a congregation of Piarists, who currently host Saint John the Baptist’s Church. The so-called Long House erected by the Cistercians in 1689-93 based on an older 16th century building is much more impressive. It was built in the early Baroque style and to date managed to retain characteristic features in its front elevation. Created for the spa patients, it was the first spa house in Cieplice. Following the dissolution of the order in 1810 it was bought by the Schaffgotsches, who placed their book collection and rich collections of natural exhibits, minerals, militaria, works of art and family heirlooms in it. After World War II the building was taken over by the Cieplice Health Resort and adapted to house offices and a clinic. Within the monastery buildings lies the ‘Marysieńka’ pavilion built in 1710 and reconstructed 100 years later and topped with a dome.Opposite of the Long House, by the bridge over the Kamienna river, is the 18th century statue of Saint John of Nepomuk founded by Count Schaffgotsch. ul. Cieplicka 9/11 4 St. John the Baptist’s Church It was erected in 1714-1717 according to the design of Kasper Jentsch from Jelenia Góra. It is constructed on a polygonal plan without a separate chancel. The entry to the church is adorned with a portal crowned with an impressive cartouche. Both sides of the single-nave interior accommodate a row of chapels and, above them, matronea. Its most awe-inspiring feature is the sculpted interior. The main element of the fittings is the main altar (the work of a sculptor from Jelenia Góra, Heinrich Wagner) with the painting of a renowned Silesian painter, Michał Willmann. Another noteworthy element is the pulpit ornamented with low reliefs presenting scenes from the life of the patron of the church. The crypt under the church provides eternal rest to the members of the Schaffgotsch family who lived in Cieplice. ul. Cieplicka 9 0048 75 64 28 810 @ www.cieplice.pijarzy.pl mo. - fr. 9.00 - 12.00 available The courtyard of the church (former graveyard) houses the column of the Holy Trinity and a statute of Saint Florian, on the surrounding wall there are 16th and 17th century tombstones and funerary stones of the members of the Schaffgotschs family ruling Radomierz moved from the local church. The courtyard is closed by a four-sided church bell tower erected at the beginning of the 18th century. 29 Near the church there is a publicly available spring topped with a sculpture, the nearby information boards provide details about the chemical composition and application of the Cieplice springs. Coming back towards the Schaffgotsch Palace we pass the „Marysieńka” Spring Sanatorium. The wall of the building hosts a board commemorating the creation of the first mountain guide in Polish, „Warmbrunn and its surroundings...”. It was written by Rozalia Saulson who resided in Cieplice in 1849. Further on our trip from the Piastowski square we should head out for a longer walk to the Zdrojowy Park. 5 Old Spa Park The main park avenue was created as early as in 1796, however, the entirety was created in the first half of the 19th century when the Schaffgotschs reconstructed their jardin à la française to an English garden and made a part of it available to the residents of Cieplice and patients. To make the stay in the spa more attractive to visitors the park welcomed addition of spots where patients could pass their free time. The main park avenue houses the “Edward” pavilion. The building was created in 1820 as a cake shop (“wafer shop”) and was then expanded several times. A dancing room, a billiards room, a concert hall, a porch and guest rooms were added, effectively transforming it into the main Spa House. It was the centre of Cieplice’s social and cultural life. Further on the left we will pass a wooden concert bowl. At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries regular concerts, brightening the walks of patients, were held in that concert bowl. 6 Spa-Resort Animation Theatre Before the theatre had even been erected Cieplice were the venue for numerous plays, however, this form of entertainment began to flourish with the construction of the theatre building designed by Alberta Tolberga. Though small in size, the theatre operated on a grand scale. The stage saw not only the performances of professional actors but also talented patients and members of the Schaffgotsch family. Park Zdrojowy 1 0048 75 75 57 690 @ www.teatr.jgora.pl upon arragements available Later on, for the convenience of guests, it was merged with the nearby “Gallery”. The style of the “Gallery”, built in 1800, was inspired by ancient villas, it housed a concert hall, a reading room, social games room, cigar smoking room and a restaurant. Today the 19th century theatre building houses the Spa-Resort Animation Theatre which aside from its primary activity also organizes the cultural life of Cieplice. The regular events held in the theatre include “Cieplice Spring” and summer promenade concerts. www.jeleniagora.pl 31 If we advance further on the park avenue, pass the Theatre and the Gallery leaving the Spa Park, we will arrive at Cervi Street. To reach the next item on our itinerary we must turn right, cross the bridge on the Wrzosówka river and turn right before the emerging pond into the alley park. This is where we will start our tour of the Norwegian Park. 7 Norwegian Park Until mid-19th century Cieplice had a prosperous paper machine factory founded and operated by the Füllner family. At the beginning of the 20th century its owner, Eugen Füllner, made several investments towards the spa. One investment was creating a picturesque park, called the Norwegian Park. It owes its name to a wooden building erected in 1909, whose finishing resembles Viking boats. Eugen Füllner travelled to Norway and inspired by the local folk architecture decided to build a dragon-style pavilion in Cieplice which is now called the Norwegian Pavilion. This Pavilion was inspired by the “Frognerseteren” restaurant near Oslo. Until the 1950s the pavilion housed a restaurant and in 1967 became the seat of the Natural Museum. The backside of the pavilion was used to expose interesting figural beehives. The Norwegian Park occupies some 17ha with several dozen types of trees and bushes. Nearby of the Norwegian Park is a pond. In the past tourists could swim over the pond in a kayak or water bicycle. Today it is inhabited by waterfowl. If we walk along the park avenues we should cross the bridge over the Wrzosówka river to see a stone obelisk commemorating the encounter of two Polish poets, Wincenty Pol and Kornel Ujejski with a Czech naturalist, Jan Evangelist Purkyně. We may conclude our walk on the anti-flood dam that provides a beautiful overview of the Karknosze mountains. Our tour of Cieplice ends in the Norwegian Park. To reach the next point of the Main City Centre Route we have to drive to Sobieszów and take the tourist trails to arrive at the picturesque ruins of the Chojnik Castle. 8 Chojnik Castle The Chojnik mountain overlooking Sobieszów is by nature an excellent site for a defensive structure. Consequently, many historical sources mention the settlement of the Bobrzanie tribe on the peak and a hunting manor house erected by Prince Bolesław the Horned. The erection of the stone castle is dated at 1355 when the reigning Prince of Świdnica and Jawor, Bolko III, strengthened his lands with numerous strongholds. The stone castle consisted of a tower, residential building and a small courtyard. Following the death of the prince, his widow, princess Agnieszka, gave the castle to knight Gotsche Schoff, the progenitor of the Schaffgotsch family (who ruled the castle with small breaks until 1945). The new owner added a chapel to the castle. During the Hussite Wars in the 15th century the castle effectively fended off the attacks of the Hussites, but it also was ill-famed due to the activities of its owners who used to pillage the locals and tradesmen passing through the nearby trade route. 33 na rowerze The castle was expanded a few more times in the 15th, 16th and 17th century. Finally becoming an extensive lower castle with utility rooms (a kitchen, servants’ room, cellar) with carved cisterns in which water deposits for the inhabitants were stored. The castle was also adapted to the developing military techniques. The stronghold that remained unconquered by humans finally succumbed to the forces of nature on 31 August 1675, it burned down due to a lighting strike. The owners never decided to rebuild it and gradually the castle transformed into a picturesque ruin whose charm gradually started to attract tourists. With them in mind in 1822 a hostel was created in the bastel house of the lower castle. The most prominent guest of this hostel was Karol Wojtyła (who went on to become Pope John Paul II), who at the beginning of September 1956 with a group of students biked through the Jelenia Góra Valley. To commemorate his stay in 2007 the Papal Trail was outlined and ceremoniously opened and an occasional plaque was set in the so-called „pallatium” of the upper castle. Jelenia Góra - Sobieszów Visitors are welcomed with the re– Chojnik mains of buildings from the particu0048 75 75 56 394 0048 502 252 157 0048 75 75 53 535 - hostel @ www.chojnik.pl II-III, XI-XII 10.00 - 16.00 IV-VI, IX-X 10.00 - 17.00 VII - VIII 10.00 - 18.00 full fare PLN 5 concession fare PLN 3 unavailable lar stages of the expansion, enter the tower to admire the beautiful panorama of the surrounding areas and hear the legend of the beautiful, but cruel queen Kunigunde. Other worthwhile monuments in Sobieszów include: two ancient churches, Saint Martin Church and the postevangelic Sacred Heart of Jesus Church, the Schaffgotsch Castle (currently used by the Complex of Secondary and Vocational Schools) Natural Museum in the seat of the Management of the Karkonoski National Park. From Sobieszów we move on to the last item on our itinerary, the House of Gerhart Hauptman in Jagniątków. 9 The Municipal Museum House of Gerhart Hauptmann in Jagniątków A German writer, Noble-prize winner Gerhart Hauptmann was born in SzczawnoZdrój but enchanted by the undeniable charm of Jagniątków decided to build his house there. The villa, which the artist called “Meadow Stone” (“Wiesenstein”) was built in 1901 according to the design of a Berlin Architect, Hans Griesebach. The Art Noveau shape of the building with two towers is an excellent match for the mountainous landscape, and the nearby park boosted the owner’s creative prolificacy. The interior of the spacious house contains a work room, library, archive and numerous collections of ancient and modern works of art and personal memorabilia. In 1922, on Hauptmann’s 60th birthday, the villa’s hall welcomed the addition of a painting by Johannes Maximilian Avenarius, who presented his vision of paradise on the walls and ceiling. The work, which is full of symbolism, manages to astonish visitors to date. Following Gerhart Hauptmannn’s death in 1946, his wife left the house taking most of the valuable fittings with her. In 2001 a museum collecting memorabilia from the writer’s life and conducting broad educational activities was opened in the „Meadow Stone”. It is the venue of concerts, literary evenings, temporary exhibitions and other cultural events addressed to adults and younger visitors. After watching the museum exhibition we may enjoy the atmosphere of the villa while drinkul. Michałowicka 32 ing a cup of coffee in the coffee house located in the ground floor of the building. An0048 75 75 56 395 other notable tourist attraction in Jagniątków is an interesting church whose shape is inwww.muzeum-dgh.pl spired by the Podhale buildings. Several trails V-IX tu. - su. 9.00 - 17.00 into the Karkonosze Mountains also start X-IV tu. - su 9.00 - 16.00 in Jagniątków. The picturesqueness, scenic beauty, tranquillity and the closeness of the full fare - PLN 6 mountains attract many tourists and vacaconcession fare - PLN 3 tioners to this part of Jelenia Góra. only from the outside @ www.jeleniagora.pl 35 Other interesting buildings alongside the Main Jelenia Góra City Centre Route Natural History Museum in Cieplice The interiors of the so-called Norwegian Pavilion house unique collections. A large portion of the presented exhibits comes from the collection of the Schaffgotsch family founded by Count Hans Schaffgotsch in the 18th century. As part of the permanent exhibition we may admire an ornithological exhibition - Birds of the World. The display cases present particular types of birds, from the most common to the most exotic ones. The next part houses beautiful butterfly collections. www.muzeum-cieplice.pl St. Martin’s Church According to historical sources, the original church existed at this site since the 15th century. Later on, in the 18th century, the church was reconstructed to receive its Baroque form which it has retained to date. The shape and decoration of the interior come from the years 1778 - 1782 when the church underwent renovation works. Fittings were founded by the Schaffgotsch family. Alongside the church there is a 16th century belltower with slightly later bells. www.parafiasobieszow.pl Sacred Heart of Jesus Church From the time it was created in mid18th century until 1946 the church served evangelicals and to date managed to retain some features characteristic of Protestant buildings. Currently it is being used by the Roman-Catholic parish in Sobieszów. The simple interior of the church is adorned with a rich altar and pulpit, its peculiar charm is conveyed by illusionistic paintings covering the vault. The entirety is complemented by a very valuable organ. www.parafiasobieszow.pl Natural History Museum of the Karkonosze National Park The museum collects exhibits and archive materials related to the natural environment, history, and ethnography of Karkonosze. The exhibition is introduced by a section devoted to environment protection in Poland and the history and activity of the Karkonosze National Park The other parts of the exhibition are devoted to the environmental richness of the Karkonosze. The particular exhibition rooms display, among others, a relief map of the mountain range, a collection of minerals, plants and animals. A rock garden also operates under the auspices of the Museum. It houses 90 types of plants growing in the Karkonosze National Park. www.kpnmab.pl Schaffgotsch Palace in Sobieszów The Palace is located in the middle part of Sobieszów near the road to Piechowice. It was erected in 1712, as the seat of the Schaffgotsch family, which ruled the lands in Karkonosze and at their foot. The residence was erected in a Baroque style and still manages to retain its features. Other interesting features include the fireplace room adorned with coat of arms and a ceiling with rich moulding. The other rooms have been reconstructed. It currently houses an Environment and Dietary School Complex. Divine Mercy Church In Jagniątków The church was erected in the years 1980-1986. Its shape was inspired by the architecture of Podhale. Thanks to this shape the church perfectly inscribes itself into the mountainous landscape. www.jagniatkow.ovh.org 37 selected cultural events Karkonosze Light Festival During the Light Festival the city gains a special kind of charm owing to colorful, professionally designed illuminations. The aim of the project is to present the most modern technologies and products used to illuminate cities, whilst maintaining care for the environment. Jelenia Góra www.kfs24.pl Cieplice Spring This project accommodates numerous cultural and entertainment events addressed to patients,tourists and locals. The ample program includes concerts, plays, cabaret performances, exhibitions and family fairs. Jelenia Góra, Creative Harbor - Cieplice Culture Centre ”Zoom - Zbliżenia” International Film Festival „Zoom - Zbliżenia” is a festival promoting independent films. It is attended by independent film aficionados from Poland and abroad. The format of the competition is open, anyone willing can challenge the silver screen with their piece. Jelenia Góra, Community Centre www.zoomfestival.pl International Street Theatre Festival In August the Jelenia Góra Town Square for a brief period transforms into a stage for incoming artistic groups. Actors are not confined by the closed space of a theatre and the unique scenery and the scale of the plays provide unforgettable thrills. Jelenia Góra, C. K. Norwid Theatre in Jelenia Góra Jelenia Góra Theatre Meetings A real treat for theatre enthusiasts. For a few days the Jelenia Góra scene hosts numerous performances of theatre groups from Poland and abroad. The meetings are attended by repertoire and independent theatres alike. Jelenia Góra, C. K. Norwid Theatre in Jelenia Góra Jelenia Góra September and "Silesia SonaNs” European Organ Music Festival In autumn Jelenia Góra is the venue of a series of cultural and entertainment events - musical concerts, artistic shows, exhibitions, fairs or events targeted at children and families. The „Silesia Sonans” Festival is particularly noteworthy. Outstanding Polish and foreign artists gather to play pieces of famous composers inside the Garrison Church. Jelenia Góra, Jelenia Góra Culture Centre, Roman-catholic Feast of the Cross Parish, Patronage of the City of Jelenia Góra www.silesiasonans.pl Art & Glass festival The first fires lit up the Karkonosze glass furnaces already in the distant times of the middle ages. Through craftwork shows, workshops, presentations of artists and other interesting forms the organizers bring the broad audience closer to still living forms of glass smelting. Jelenia Góra Culture Centre, Karkonosze Museum, Artistic Exhibitions Office, Spring Animation Theatre, Patronage of the City Jelenia Góra „Chojnik Golden Bolt” Knight’s Crossbow Tournament Once a year the picturesque ruins of Chojnik play host to the struggles of knight fellowships. The tournament is accompanied by shows of medieval customs, dances, crafts and warfare. Chojnik Castle Knight Fellowship Antique and Curio Fair For a few days in September Jelenia Góra revives its commercial roots. The local fair is one of the largest in Poland, it is attended by collectors from all of Europe. At the fair you can buy old furniture and practical items, numismatic collections, books, trinkets and a myriad of other things. Jelenia Góra, Community Centre, Tourist and Culture Information Centre in the Karkonosze Library www.jeleniagora.pl 39 Jelenia Góra - actively On foot Tourists who prefer hiking may take one of many marked tourist trails. from Jelenia Góra: black: JG Kruszwicka (Bus Depot) - JG black, yellow: JG Polish Touristic Association (PTTK), black, yellow: JG Bus station -Borowy Jar from Cieplice: yellow: Cieplice - Karpniki, blue: Cieplice - Grodna from Sobieszów: red: Sobieszów - Chojnik, black: Sobieszów - Chojnik from Jagniątków: green: Jagniątków - Szklarska Poręba, black: Szrenica - Jagniątków - Petrova Bouda, yellow: Piechowice -Jagniątków - Przesieka, blue: Podgórzyn - Jagniątków - Czarna Przełęcz By kayak: Kayakers may admire Jelenia Góra from their favourite perspective, using the water route on the Bober River. www.pttk-jg.pl/index.php/kajakiem.html From the air Owing to natural factors the Jelenia Góra Valley boasts exceptionally good conditions for gliding and hang-gliding. Consequently, the Jelenia Góra airport and the local flying club enjoys much popularity among flying aficionados from Poland and abroad alike. www.aeroklub.jgora.pl Biking Bike lovers are in for a real treat, „Bober valley trail” (ER-6), the biking ringroad of Jelenia Góra, the Jelenia Góra - Łomnica biking trail, and the biking events organized in the city: • Jelenia Góra trophy - Maja Włoszczowska MTB Race - a biking race involving the top contenders of the amateurs of the world MTB scene. www.majarace.com • Bike parade - an entertainment event propagating biking, a healthy lifestyle and active outdoor leisure. www.muzyczneradio.com.pl • Dirt town - bike stunts performed on the Town Hall square and a biking contest on a specially prepared obstacle course. www.bikeaction.pl www.jeleniagora.pl 41 Mini guide Apart from interesting monuments and beautiful views Jelenia Góra also offers a broad selection of cultural events for a wide audience. These include musical, theatre and film festivals, events presenting regional tradition (crafts, handicrafts, local products), sports and entertainment events. You can spend your free time at the movies, in the theatre, philharmonics, art gallery or by participating in workshops, lectures and other forms offered by institutions operating in the city. These options offer something interesting to everyone. Teatr im. Cypriana Kamila Norwida 58-500 Jelenia Góra Al. Wojska Polskiego 38 tel. 0048 64 28 110 www.teatrnorwida.pl Zdrojowy Teatr Animacji 58-560 Jelenia Góra-Cieplice Park Zdrojowy 1 tel. 0048 75 57 690 www.teatr.jgora.pl Jeleniogórskie Centrum Informacji i Edukacji Regionalnej „Książnica Karkonoska” 58-500 Jelenia Góra, ul. Bankowa 27 tel. 0048 75 22 568 www.biblioteka.jelenia-gora.pl JCK – Jeleniogórskie Centrum Kultury 58-500 Jelenia Góra, ul. 1 Maja 60 tel. 0048 64 23 880/881 www.jck.pl ODK – Osiedlowy Dom Kultury (Galerie „Promocje” i „Hall”) 58-506 Jelenia Góra ul. K. Komedy-Trzcińskiego 12 tel. 0048 75 31 831 www.odk.karkonosze.com MDK – Młodzieżowy Dom Kultury „Jelonek” 58-500 Jelenia Góra ul. M. Skłodowskiej-Curie 12 tel. 0048 64 244 60 www.mdkjelonek.pl Miejski Dom Kultury „MUFLON” 58-570 Jelenia Góra-Sobieszów ul. Cieplicka 172 tel. 0048 75 53 626 www.muflon.sobieszow.pl „PRZYSTAŃ TWÓRCZA” Cieplickie Centrum Kultury 58-560 Jelenia Góra-Cieplice ul. P. Ściegiennego 5/7 tel. 0048 75 71 22 892 www.cieplice.org Muzeum Karkonoskie 58-500 Jelenia Góra, ul. Matejki 28 tel. 0048 75 23 465 www.muzeumkarkonoskie.pl Muzeum Przyrodnicze 58-560 Jelenia Góra-Cieplice ul. Wolności 268 tel. 0048 75 51 506 www.muzeum-cieplice.pl Muzeum Przyrodnicze Karkonoskiego Parku Narodowego 58-570 Jelenia Góra-Sobieszów ul. Chałubińskiego 23 tel. 0048 75 53 348 www.kpnmab.pl Muzeum Miejskie Dom Gerharta Hauptmanna 58-570 Jelenia Góra-Jagniątków ul. Michałowicka 32 tel. 0048 75 53 286 www.muzeum-dgh.pl Filharmonia Dolnośląska 58-500 Jelenia Góra ul. Piłsudskiego 60 tel. 0048 75 38 171 www.filharmonia.jgora.pl Kino „Grand” 58-500 Jelenia Góra, ul. Krótka 3 tel. 0048 75 22 378 BWA - Biuro Wystaw Artystycznych 58-500 Jelenia Góra, ul. Długa 1 tel. 0048 75 26 669 www.galeria-bwa. karkonosze.com Galeria „Pod Brązowym Jeleniem” JCK 58-500 Jelenia Góra, ul. 1 Maja 60 tel. 0048 64 23 880 www.jck.pl Galeria „Korytarz” JCK 58-500 Jelenia Góra, ul. Bankowa 28/30 tel. 0048 64 78 884 www.jck.pl JTF Jeleniogórskie Towarzystwo Fotograficzne 58-500 Jelenia Góra, ul. Podwale 1a tel. 0048 75 26 435 www.jtf.yoyo.pl Skarbiec Ducha Gór - Galeria Produktu Lokalnego 58-500 Jelenia Góra al. Wojska Polskiego 40 tel. 0048 644 21 65 www.duchgor.org Kino „Lot” 58-500 Jelenia Góra, ul. Pocztowa 11/12 tel. 0048 76 76 370 www.kino.jg24.pl Wydział Kultury, Sportu i Turystyki tel. 0048 75 46 178 e-mail: [email protected] DKF „Klaps” 58-500 Jelenia Góra, ul. Bankowa 28/30 tel. 0048 64 78 884 www.jck.pl Wydział Promocji i Polityki Informacyjnej tel. 0048 75 46 184 e-mail: [email protected] 43 a er m Ro ka ka Cz ec ha Karko Za mk ow a noska Ka rk on os c Ciepli Ch oj nik iem 8 ska Pod Jelenia Góra Sobieszów Ka rko no Jelenia Góra Jagniątków icka łow zko ws ka ha Mic a ow zk c e Na rci a rsk a 9 M ich a Wcz as ck wi ało owa Ag nie s n Sa