A guide to the buzzing, culturally rich city of Puno

Transcription

PUNO
PERUFORLESS Travel Guide
A guide to the buzzing, culturally rich city of
Puno, written by the travel experts at
Peru For Less
NAZCA - PERUFORLESS TRAVEL GUIDE
INDEX
INTRODUCTION | PAGE 3
GEOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE | PAGE 4
DEMOGRAPHICS AND STATISTICS | PAGE 5
TRANSPORT | PAGE 5
HISTORY | PAGE 6
ATTRACTIONS | PAGE 8
SHOPPING | PAGE 9
HOTELS | PAGE 9
RESTAURANTS | PAGE 10
NIGHTLIFE | PAGE 10
CULTURAL CALENDAR | PAGE 11
HEALTH AND SAFETY | PAGE 12
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Introduction to Puno
Puno is the stepping-off point for exploring Lake Titicaca and it’s amazing array of islands, diverse native inhabitants,
and colorful traditions. Perched at a dizzying 12,421 ft / 3,860 m above sea level, Puno is the capital Peru’s altiplano
– the harsh highland plateau region that could almost be said to be better suited to roaming vicuñas and alpacas than
to visiting North Americans and Europeans. It is also an ideal complement to travel in the Cusco region: this indigo
mirror to the sky affords a breathtaking contrast to the rugged heights of Cusco and Machu Picchu.
CHARACTERIZED BY EPIC LANDSCAPES AND AZURE SKIES, PUNO IS UNDOUBTEDLY MOST OFTEN
VISITED FOR LAKE TITICACA, THE LEGENDARY LAKE WHERE THE INCA EMPIRE HAS ITS FABLED
ORIGIN. LEGEND HAS IT THAT THE FIRST TWO CHILDREN OF THE SUN, MANCO CAPAC AND HIS
SISTER-CONSORT MAMA OCLLO, EMERGED FROM THE CERULEAN DEPTHS TO BE THE FIRST PAIR
IN THE MIGHTY INCAN DYNASTY.
Decorating the lake’s surface are the renowned Uros, or floating islands, where pre-Incan people live on self-fashioned
floating artificial islands made of woven totora reeds. Larger natural islands such as Taquile and Amantani also grace
the lake’s shimmering turquoise façade, reachable in just a few hours by motorized launch from the city port.
As Peru’s self proclaimed Folkloric Capital, Puno boasts a plethora of handicrafts, costumes, holidays, legends and,
most importantly, more than 300 ethnic dances. Fortunately for the culture-seeking traveler, visitors are welcomed
warmly and allowed remarkable insight into the customs and ways of life of communities whose traditions have
remained unchanged for centuries.
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Puno Geography and Climate
Puno Geography
Located in southeastern Peru, Puno is bordered by Bolivia to the east, the Madre de Dios Region to the north, and
the Cusco and Arequipa Regions to the west. The city’s geography and layout is unique, as it is situated in the narrow
strip of available land between the shores of Lake Titicaca and the mountains surrounding the city. There is less than
2 miles / 3kilometers distance of flat land between the shores and the foothills, causing the growing city to continue
to expand upwards onto the hillsides, sprawling along every available or barely habitable plot of land on which a
dwelling can be built.
Two mountain ranges, the Carabaya Cordillera to the north and the Maritime or Volcanic Cordillera to the south, line
this otherwise flat territory.
Lake Titicaca is recognized as one of the highest commercially navigable lakes in the world, so large that locals
proudly boast that it has its own waves. The lake’s deep blue waters stretch across more than 3,100 square miles
and two different countries, not counting the surface area of the lake’s 30+ natural and man-made islands.
Altitude: 12,506 ft/ 3812 m
Terrain: Highland plateau surrounded by Andean foothills
Cuzco Climate
THE PERUVIAN ANDES AND AMAZON HAVE 2 MAIN SEASONS: THE RAINY SEASON AND THE DRY
SEASON. THE RAINY SEASON IS FROM OCTOBER TO APRIL AND THE DRY SEASON GENERALLY
RUNS BETWEEN MAY AND SEPTEMBER.
Temperatures range from 59º F/15º C to 71º F/22º C in summer to around 41º F/5º C to 60º F/16º C in winter. By
collecting the sun’s heat during the day and releasing it at night, the lake provides a thermal effect that provides the
city with a considerably warmer climate than other cities in the region.
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Similar to Cuzco, rain is essentially restricted to the winter months, with intensely blue skies gracing the region during
summer. However, when the sun is obstructed by beautiful fluffy white clouds, expect surprisingly crisp temperatures
and remember to always keep some warm layers accessible.
In the evenings it also becomes notoriously cold, with temperatures dropping to below freezing from June through
to August. In the day, the sun is intense and sunburn is common so do stock up on sunscreen if planning to visit.
Puno Demographics and Statistics
Puneños (those from Puno) are a unique blend of people with both Quechua and Aymara ancestry (the two most
common indigenous groups in Peru), and are ethnically akin to their lakeside-dwelling Bolivian counterparts.
Population: 1,268,400 (2007)
Ethnicity: Quechua, Aymara, Uro
Religion: Catholic mixed with indigenous elements
Puno Transportation
City Airport Information
The closest airport terminal is the Inca Manco Capac International Airport, known as Aeropuerto Internacional Inca
Manco Capac in Spanish, and is situated in the city of Juliaca, a 30-minute drive from Puno city. Despite the name,
this airport does not feature any scheduled international connections.
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The airline serving the airport is LAN Peru, which has daily flights from both Lima and Cuzco. Flights from Lima are
approximately 2.5 hours, with a stop in Cuzco. Flights directly from Cuzco take just under an hour.
City Bus Information
It is very possible (and common for those on a budget) to travel to and from Puno by bus, particularly from Cusco and
onwards to Copacabana in Bolivia. The ride from Cusco can be arranged in a tourist bus, where along the way you
visit the church in Andahuaylillas, the Inca temple Raqchi, the highest pass on the route La Raya, and the pre-Inca
ruins of Pukara. This trip is highly scenic and takes about 9 hours including the various stops and a buffet lunch in
Sicuani.
ANOTHER VERY ATTRACTIVE, IF MORE COSTLY, OPTION IS THE TOURIST TRAIN THAT RUNS 3 TIMES
A WEEK FROM CUSCO – FOR MORE DETAILS ASK ONE OF OUR EXPERT TRAVEL ADVISORS.
Getting around the City
The most convenient way to get around the city is on foot, as the center is small and all points of interest are within
easy walking distance from each other. Thankfully the streets are much less steep than they are in Cusco – a blessing at over 12,400 feet!
However, if the altitude is still leaving you somewhat puffed, taxi fare within the city is similar to that in Cusco, and
generally never exceeds 3 soles (around $1) – but remember that taxis are not metered and be sure to settle a price
before beginning your journey. Of course, if you prefer, your hotel is always able to arrange a secure and reliable taxi
to assist you on your excursions.
History of Puno
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The region, like much of the Andean highlands, has undergone significant cultural changes throughout the centuries.
Pre-Incan civilizations, including the Pukará and Tiahuanaco, were characterized by their skillfulness in pyramid construction, stonework, pottery and textiles. By the 15th century, the Incas had arrived to the region and had violently
conquered the Collao and Aymara cultures that currently inhabit the area. However, the aptly named lupazas, or
children of the sun, never fully surrendered and to this day remain an important ethnic group in both the Peruvian
and Bolivian Altiplano regions.
During colonial times, the Spaniards established themselves in Puno, attracted by its mineral richness, and brought
new cultural, social and economic habits along with them. The city of San Carlos de Puno was founded in 1668 by
the Viceroy Pedro Antonio Fernández de Castro (X Count of Lemos). Catholic priests, eager to convert the natives,
encouraged them to build beautiful churches, some of which still stand today.
Although today Puno is unquestionably underprivileged and somewhat unattractive, during the Spanish period it was
one of the continent’s richest cities because of its proximity to the Laykakota silver mines, discovered by brothers
Gaspar and Jose Salcedo in 1657. The subsequent mining boom drew thousands of people to an area not far from
what is now the city of Puno. Not surprisingly, it also brought a bloody rivalry between the brothers and the vice royal
government that ended only when the ironhanded Count Lemos – Viceroy of Peru – traveled to Puno, ordered Jose
Salcedo executed, and transferred Laykakota’s residents to Puno.
As a testament to the quietly rebellious nature of the more faithful natives, Lake Titicaca allegedly became a secret
depository for the Incan empire’s gold during the Spanish Conquest. Among the items supposedly buried at the
lake’s bottom is Inca Huascar’s gold chain, weighing 4,400 lbs /2,000 kg and previously stored in the Koricancha –
the Temple of the Sun in Cusco – until loyal Indians threw it into the lake to prevent it from falling into Spanish hands.
Oceanographer Jacques Yves Cousteau spent eight weeks using mini submarines to explore the depths of the lake
but instead of gold found a treasure of a different sort: a previously unknown, enormous, multicolored frog.
Today, Puno is the first major commercial hub in the constant migration of indigenous peoples of the Andes to the
larger cities of Peru. It is the main city in the Southern Altiplano – second to Juliaca – and annually receives new
residents from surrounding smaller agricultural communities, who arrive seeking improved opportunities for education and employment. It is also the regional center for mass cultural expressions, most notably the celebrations of the
Festival of the “Virgen de la Candelaria” and the Regional Competition of Autochthonous Dances, which famously
attract multitudes of townsfolk from surrounding villages year after year. In fact, in terms of numbers and regional significance, the “Virgen de la Candelaria” Festival is reputedly one of the three largest cultural manifestations in South
America, together with the famed Carnaval Festival in Río de Janeiro, Brasil, and the Carnaval in Oruro, Bolivia.
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Puno Attractions
Within Puno city itself, there are one or two buildings that should not be missed. Situated centrally on the Plaza de
Armas is the Cathedral: a magnificent stone structure built by Peruvian architect Simon de Asto in 1757 which features an attractive baroque-style façade. While the interior is simple and unassuming, the center altar is of carved
marble and plated in silver, and the side walls have been elaborately painted by artists of the Cuzqueñan and Italian
Art Schools. Unfortunately, a fire destroyed many priceless engravings and religious icons in 1930.
Directly beside the Cathedral is the Balcony of the Count of Lemos, found on a once illustrious house where Peru’s
Viceroy Don Pedro Antonio Fernandez de Castro – the Count – purportedly stayed when he first arrived in the city
to stamp out local disturbances. Today, it serves the much more peaceful function of housing the cultural complex of
the National Culture Institute of the Department of Puno and its associated art gallery.
Not far from the Plaza de Armas is the Museo Carlos Dreyer (289 Jr. Conde de Lemos), a small but well-curated museum displaying a collection of Nazca, Tiahuanaco, Paracas, Chimú, and Inca artifacts and colonial art bequeathed
to the city upon the death of their owner, for whom the museum is named. An artist in oil painting, aquarelle, charcoal,
and pencil, Carlos Dreyer was born in Germany but was captivated by the intoxicating beauty and majesty of the
Andean highlands, spending 30 years of his life in the region and producing a prolific amount of work characterized
by delicate colors and a strong indigenous influence. The museum is open Monday through Friday from 7:30am to
3:30pm; admission is around S/3.50 ($1.20).
For a superb view of Lake Titicaca and a vantage point over the city, there are two look-out points atop a steep hill
about 10 minutes southwest of the main square: Mirador Kuntur Wasi and Huajsapata Park. At the top, you will
find a gleaming white statue of Manco Cápac, the legendary first Inca and founder of the empire. Back down below,
Jr. (Pasaje) Lima is a pedestrian mall, lined with shops, restaurants, and bars, that runs from the Plaza de Armas to
Parque Pino, an attractive square populated by relaxing locals.
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Shopping in Puno
Two blocks down from Parque Pino, on Arbulu Street, is the hectic city Market – a sprawling collection of people,
goods, and local food. This bustling market is worth a visit in order to glimpse the wide collection of products characteristic of the highlands – such as the amazing variety of potatoes, ranging from the hard, freeze-dried papa seca
that looks distinctly like dried fruit, to purple potatoes and yellow-orange speckled olluco tubers. The Puno region is
in fact the proud birth place of the cultivated potato.
Located across the train tracks is the artisan’s section of the market, also a great place to browse through a number
of Alpaca goods, such as thick colorful blankets, ponchos, and sweaters, which can be purchased at a considerably
lower cost than in Cusco. Alongside these local specialties are miniature reed boats like those so abundantly for sale
on Lake Titicaca.
Puno Hotels
HOTEL LIBERTADOR PUNO is a luxurious low-rise hotel located about 3 miles from Puno city itself and nestled
right on the shores of Lake Titicaca on a private peninsula. For travelers who enjoy tranquility in a lovely setting as
well as high quality services, this elegant hotel is, without a doubt, one of the area’s most well-appointed lodging
options. All 123 guest rooms are comfortable, tastefully decorated, and equipped with all latest modern amenities. In
addition, they all boast splendid views of the shimmering Lake Titicaca and its floating islands, as does the excellent
restaurant. This hotel is also known for the excellence of its expert staff.
Boasting magnificent views of Lake Titicaca, the CASA ANDINA PRIVATE COLLECTION HOTEL IN PUNO,
featuring an amazing gourmet restaurant, bar and terrace, will guarantee you a memorable stay. The traditional
Andean architectural theme of Casa Andina Private Collection Puno can best be described as understated elegance,
where obvious care has been taken to allow the spectacular surroundings to speak for themselves, rather than
detract from them. Rooms are sophisticatedly furnished in a classic but elegant style, and most of them feature
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attractive wooden balconies from which to admire the spectacular views of Lake Titicaca. With its private dock, this
hotel is the perfect launching point for the spectacular Suasi Island where the exceptional sister hotel, Casa Andina
Private Collection Suasi, is located.
An excellent choice right on the shores of Lake Titicaca, ECO INN PUNO is managed by Interamerican Promo
Hotels, a worldwide great value and high quality chain. As expected, this modern hotel offers great comfort and
excellent service at affordable prices. All rooms with their modern wooden furnishing are inviting, impeccably kept,
and equipped with all modern amenities that will make your stay comfortable including internet access, cable
television, telephone, safe deposit box, and more. This comfortable hotel is located on open grounds, away from the
hustle of Puno’s main square, and boasts spectacular views of the lake.
Puno Restaurants
Inca Bar - Jiron Lima 348 - Tel 368-031
Surprisingly stylish, this lounge bar/restaurant aims high. The menu is much more creative and flavorful than other
places in town, with interesting sauces for lake fish and alpaca steak, curries, and stir fries, and artful presentations.
Interesting pastas and big salads, as well as sandwiches and snacks, are served until 5pm, and breakfast is served
daily. Incabar is also a good place to hang out, have a beer or coffee, and write postcards -- the colorful back room
has comfortable sofas.
Colors Lounge - Calle Lima 342
A popular restaurant by the same owner as Inca Bar, this hip eatery offers creative nouveau Andean and international dishes on its menu, as well as free wifi.
Mojsa Restaurant, Café & Pizzería - Jiron Lima 635 - Tel 363-182
Known for tasty fare comprised of international staples such as sandwiches and pastas, as well as fresh new takes
on local favorites like trout fillet and alpaca steak, Mojsa Restaurant has a well priced menu and a pleasant ambience. Expect anything but Andean music to be playing as you dine.
Apu Salkantay - Jiron Lima 425 - Tel 363-955
This is a famous touristy restaurant, located in the main street. It is also popular with groups, so you can expect a
noisy atmosphere. The decor is characterized by dark woods and ochre colors. The menu offers many typical Peruvian dishes, and the roasted cuy (Guinea pig) is reportedly delicious.
Puno Nightlife
Most bars are found along the main strip of Jiron Lima, and generally sport a youngish backpacker crowd. Accordingly, the music is decidedly American or UK-based, and national beers and simple mixed drinks are the most common tipple.
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Puno Cultural Calendar
February:
The Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria, which orginally lasted for the first 40 days and nights after Christmas,
is in fact an ancient tradition started by the Catholic church to “purify” the Virgen Mary. In addition to the fiesta, there
was traditionally a solemn, blessed candle-lit procession, hence the name, Candelaria.
Today, the Virgen de la Candelaria Festival is the most important religious celebration in all of Peru, and includes
numerous religious services, banquets, dances, contests, and a colorful procession that brings together hundreds
of the faithful.
May:
The Alacitas y las Cruces Festival is unique event, staged at diverse fairs located on the main streets of each
city, where locals make and sell miniature artisan handicrafts representing the object which one might desire: a
house, car, money and so on. Bolivian artists also participate in this festival.
November:
The Founding Anniversary of Puno City is characterized by civic manifestations and school dance exhibitions
throughout the city’s streets. November 5th represents the creation of the Inca Empire: the legend featuring the
mythical pair Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo emerging from the sacred Lake Titicaca in search of lands upon which
to found the Empire.
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Puno Health and Safety
As with anywhere throughout South America, it is best to drink bottled water while within the Puno region in order to
avoid contracting any parasites or water-borne illnesses. If no bottled water is available, be sure to travel with water
purification tablets or boil water for 15 minutes to eliminate any harmful bacteria.
Many travelers are affected by the high altitude in the city, although this is mitigated somewhat if you have already
been to other high altitude areas such as Cusco. It is best to moderate your intake of caffeine, smoking, or alcohol as
this will amplify the effect of dehydration that altitude often induces – be sure to drink lots of water as well. Munching
on coca leaves or drinking coca tea is a good remedy for soroche (altitude sickness). Medication is also available
from all good pharmacies.
TRAVELERS IN PUNO SHOULD ALWAYS REMAIN WARY OF THIEVES. THIS PARTICULARLY APPLIES
WHEN IN CROWDS OR AT BARS AND RESTAURANTS WHERE BAG-SLASHING OR PICK POCKETING
CAN OCCUR EASILY AND GO UNDETECTED. STORE VALUABLE ITEMS IN YOUR HOTEL SAFE AND
ALWAYS KEEP AN EYE ON YOUR BAGS – NEVER LEAVE BAGS UNATTENDED.
Contact us at any time, on [email protected] or 1-877-269-0309
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A guide to the buzzing, culturally rich city of Puno

Transcription

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