- Zagreb For You
Transcription
- Zagreb For You
LIMITED EDITION FREE COPY INSTAGRAM* Zagreb in full color L No. 06 ast month, Zagreb was abruptly left without Dolac. For one week, stalls and vendors migrated to Ban Jelačić Square, only to move back to their original place, but now repaved, refurbished and in full color again. The ‘misplaced’ Dolac was a unique opportunity to be reminded of what things were like half a century ago. This month there is another time-travel experience on Jelačić Square: Vintage Festival in the Johann Franck cafe, taking us back to the 50s and 60s. Read more about it in this issue... SEPTEMBER 2015. Z on Facebook 64-second kiss on the world’s shortest funicular ride The world’s shortest funicular was steam-powered until 1934. The lower stop on Tomićeva Street connects with the upper stop on the Strossmayer promenade, in front of the Lotršćak Tower. As the Zagreb oldest means of public transport, the funicular began operating only a year before the horsedrawn tram. It has kept its original look until today, which makes it a protected cultural monument. The funicular runs every ten minutes. A regular one-way ticket costs 4KN; an emergency ride is 20KN. Talkabout Croatia GRIČ-BIT IS BACK! ANJA MUTIĆ Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for New York Magazine and The Washington Post. Follow her at @everthenomad Sweet September I Tracks length: 66 m WORD Ulica (oohlee-tsah) Street, Straße, Rue, Calle, Strada, Rua ストリート 거리 街头 In competition with Bordeaux, Lisbon, Athens, Valletta, Riga, Ljubljana, Innsbruck, Milan, Brussels *2014 Zagreb was the sixth best destination in Europe A Metro named Desire to run in 2018 For the last 40 years there have been talks about building the Zagreb underground. A planned line would be 10 km long, crossing the Lower Town and connecting it with Novi Zagreb. If the Zagreb mayor’s word is to be trusted, the first shovel will dig into the Jelačić Square in two years; the first passengers will get on board in 2018. #underground Keep in touch! zagreb-touristinfo.hr used to find the month of September a tad sad. It meant the end of summer, the ceasing of careless play, time to get serious. School starts again, the shops fill with sweaters and winter feels nearly here. But I’ve had a change of heart. Perhaps because I spent the last couple of Septembers in Zagreb... Rather than an end, it now feels like the start of something new, an uplifting season. There’s still the tan (though peeling), the scent of sea salt on your rolledup beach towels you didn’t get around to washing, the fresh memory of starlit skies, a pebble in a sandal that you unknowingly carried from the coast to the city. s for the city... There’s still the sunshine (fingers crossed!), even sometimes real-deal heat – remembrances of the summer past. People feel more relaxed, and having returned from their holidays they complain less. Plus there is Zagreb’s sexy social calendar. September is so packed and happening that you don’t know which event to attend. And if you don’t attend any at all, at least you have options. yself, I love options. And I love living in a city that has them. Even if it’s just sitting on my balcony that overlooks a leafy courtyard, a glass of red in hand, listening to a chatter of voices coming in through the wide-open doors of kitchens and bedrooms, sharing sweet tales of summer. The fifth edition of the best street festival kicks off on the first day of fall, joining forces with the ‘At the Upper Town’ initiative and showcasing Device_art workshops and exhibitions hosted by Space Festival and the Klovićevi Dvori gallery. All this topped with concerts – the first headliner is TBF from Split. #GornjiGrad EUROBASKET PLAYS AGAIN IN ZAGREB. And it’s the first time since the Dražen Petrović team won the European gold. Dario Šarić, Bojan Bogdanović and the team play matches against the Slovenes, Greeks, Dutch, Macedonians and Georgians. 5-10 September, Arena Centar. Be there. #eurobasket2015 A ZET Manufacture year: 1890 Max speed: 1,5 m/s Ride duration: 64 s Capacity: 28 passengers Zagreb was more commonly known outside Croatia by its Austrian German exonym Agram * Download your free copy and share: zagreb4you.com Project 30° M September is a great time to stroll the city aimlessly. Set aside a couple of hours, take a tram to any last stop and wind your way back to the main square. Then tell us what you found en route! ZAGREB’S TECHNICAL MUSEUM IS NOW CALLED NIKOLA TESLA. Put this lesser-known Zagreb highlight on your bucket list, especially because now (and through mid-October) is the time to see Europe’s Famous Inventors’ Hall, a roving exhibit that comes to Zagreb after Munich and Naples. @tehnicki-muzej.hr SUMMER IS OVER? Not at the Zagreb Riviera. Visit Jarun Lake the first week in September to witness a spectacle of sea sports: 2015 Jarun Beach Open sand volleyball & the Croatia: Slovenia Wakeboard Championship. What are you waiting for: hit the beach! #Jarun #BeachOpen2015 what*where*when* WHITE NIGHT AN ART AFFAIR On September 26, brace yourself for a fabulous art affair set to sweep Zagreb. Nuit Blanche (White Night) is the grand finale of the international Rendez-Vous Festival. That night, the entire city will become an art gallery with installations, performances, music, film screenings, dance and more. This fab event comes courtesy of Croatian and French artists. Admission is free. LONELY CIRCUS Lonely Circus/Fall Fell Fallen – an experimental project dubbed ‘electro circus’ – is a fine mashup of circus art and avantgarde music. Head over to the ZeKaEm Theater (Teslina 7) on September 9 to experience what the critics describe as ‘a fusion of humor, absurd and acrobatics.’ Tickets: 90KN. @ulaznice.hr Koza: the leather crafts you’ll love and chic yet quirky – with simple cuts, adjustable straps and patches of vibrant colors. Two, they’re crafted with all Croatian materials – from the high-quality leather to the metal bits. Three: It’s a family-run business started by a brother-sister team, Velibor and Dora, so talented at what they do that you’ll want to support their conscientiously built brand. The t’s a late September afternoon first item they made a decade as you stroll a quiet Upper Town ago was a small leather case, street. You hear that familiar sound, sold in their flagship in the Istrian so elusive and rare these days, the coastal town of Poreč. In their chuka chuka chuka of a sewing ma- Zagreb store, they carry several chine. Follow the sound and you’ll bag models, including the funky uncover one of Zagreb’s best-kept Noobook and the elegant Lile secrets. Koza, the tiny studio-shop (named after their mother), as on Basaričekova 18 street, turns out well as items like wallets, belts handcrafted leather bags so gorand briefcases. Pop in to see the geous that you’ll want to buy each bags being made and to pick one you touch. One, the bags are your own piece of art to walk plain beautiful – at once elegant away with. ZAGREB 2015 I TOURFILM FESTIVAL You’ve probably heard already: Zagreb is hot! A tourism hit itself, Zagreb hosts the International Tourfilm Festival, slated to run September 21–24. This unique event showcases free screenings of tourist films, promo videos and tourism-related TV coverage, all produced in the last two years. Pop by to mingle with film directors, producers and passionate globetrotters from around the world. zagreb-tourfilm.com "We grew up to the sound of the old Singer sewing machine. Our mother was not just resourceful but also very creative so we always had handmade bags and clothes." Dora Zoričić, owner NEW TAKE The pick off tours that peel of Zagreb's layers agreb is going through a sightseeing tour renaissance: from eerie evening walks and outings to Medvednica mountain to foraging for local food. The best of the guided tours are not designed only to prevent you from getting lost. With each you take, you’ll see the city’s highlights woven into an engaging story – a history lesson, a dark legend, a cultural ritual or a culinary experience. Zagreb is a perfect walking city but if you prefer a speedier rhythm, you can explore Zagreb by bike (Blue Bike Zagreb) or segway (Segway City Tour Zagreb). For adventurers who like self-guided tours, Zagreb Be There free mobile app offers lesser-known routes, such as the indie or arty Zagreb or a tour around Zagreb Solar System. Secret Zagreb Walks runs a daily Zagrebarium tour around places that played important part in the industrial and sci- Matej Čelar Z Book via www.secret-zagreb.com Here’s what Zagreb sightseeing tours will do for you: take you off the beaten path or show you a classic hightlight from an unusual perspective. And what a great way to meet a real Zagreb local! entific history of Zagreb. Their evening Ghost Tour takes you to spooky Upper Town spots, including old cemeteries (secret-zagreb.com). Best of Zagreb does a Zagreb around WW2 historic tour. You’ll be taken to a square that changed names seven times under various political regimes! Politics will be spiced up with stories of everyday life under Communism (bestofzagreb.com). Underground Zagreb and Medvedgrad Castle Tour is for nature and adventure lovers. Get ready to see an abandoned underground ex-Yugo bunker and a ruined asylum in the middle of the Medvednica forest (destination-urban.eu). Funky Zagreb takes you on a Gourmet Zagreb Tour. Learn how to haggle at Dolac farmers’ market. After you fill your basket, get ready for a hands-on cooking class (funky-zagreb.com). Sculpture park with beer on tap I f you want to take a selfie with Jimmy Hendrix, John Lennon or the Ramones while in Zagreb, head over to Beertija, a Zagreb classic on Pavla Hatza Street. A unique rock’n’roll sculpture park founded by the team behind the Tvornica club, it’s become a popular hub of urban culture for both locals and visitors. Have your beer in the company of nine immortalized rock stars: Amy Winehouse and Nick Cave arrived this summer, and a new surprise guest is on their way soon. "Groups of tourists stop by the park only to have their photos taken with statues of rock stars," says Dražen Goreta, founder of the rock’n’roll park. MONOVIEW ZAGREB: WHERE MITTELEUROPA MEETS THE MEDITERRANEAN ZAGREB IN A SENTENCE: Fantastic fusion of Central European and Mediterranean influences, neither too big nor too small: an ideal city built for people, with just the right balance for a Martina Bienenfeld good life. Zagreb Tourist SEPTEMBER IN ZAGREB: Board CEO Packed with events, with Vintage Zagreb opening the Indian summer season. I’m especially proud of the international White Night finale of the Rendez-Vous Festival. It will be a memorable night of contemporary art events happening all around Zagreb, in indoor spaces as well as alfresco. THE MOST FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS IN TOURIST OFFICES: Where do we go for the best of Zagreb food?. What events should we check out? MY FAVORITE ZAGREB RITUAL: On Saturdays, having coffee with friends and feeling the Zagreb pulse. I’m always excited to see the nice outfits and friendly smiles Zagreb people proudly wear. OUR HOT TIP FOR TOURISTS: LOWER AND UPPER TOWNS, MIROGOJ CEMETERY AND TWO ZAGREB SEAS. Zagreb goes retro with its first Vintage fest F ans of decades past, gear up for fun times this month! Hop on a time machine to celebrate the 1940s—1960s with Vintage Zagreb, the inaugural edition of a fun fest slated to run September 5—18. Held at the heart of Zagreb, in Cesarčeva street, this fusion of film, fashion, music, art, dance and design celebrates times past, when style was king. “Style was so important in the middle of last century, both in a fashion sense but also music and film wise. Vintage will present a string of artists who nurture the retro culture,” says Tomo Ricov, the event’s mastermind. There will be hoola-hoop contests, vinyl record sales, display of vintage cars, motorbikes and hand-made bicycles by SentiMental Bikes, dance classes by Back to Swing, retro hairstyling workshops, services by vintage barber shops, fashion shows and music acts by retro bands and DJs spinning oldies. Varaždin, Dubrovnik of the continent N A historic town only 75 km north of Zagreb, Varaždin is a city-monument in itself. A simple stroll through the center reveals from Zagreb stunning architecture, especially from Baroque and Art Nouveau periods. A visit to the museum quarter – a complex of old villas and the Old Town Fortress – is a treat for history hawks. End with a leisurely coffee at the Ritz House, a charming place where the local crème flocks. 90 min Zagreb's daily rhythm FROM 6.30AM Do an early morning round of the farmers' market. 12.00PM Lotršćak Tower fires a loud cannon. Hear it everywhere around the center. If you’re close by, open your mouth to avoid your ears getting plugged. LUNCH The main meal of the day and the break that’s taken seriously. Look for great lunch deals in restaurants. Avoid going to offices (banks, post offices etc) at this time. RUSH HOUR is 7–9am and 4–6pm. Stay put if possible. AT DUSK The street lamp lighter turns on the gas lamps in the Upper Town. Follow him for a great sightseeing tour. FROM 7PM Evening buzz all around the center, especially Tkalčićeva and Bogovićeva. Time to grab a drink. AFTER MIDNIGHT Night trams and buses run less frequently. Hop on for an unusual nocturnal city tour (find lots of empty seats and cheerful night clubbers). WEE HOURS City center streets are thoroughly hosed down, in case you’ve wondered why Zagreb is so clean. DAWN A few bakeries will be open. Sniff out the smell of freshly baked goodies and have breakfast as the sun goes up. NATIONAL HOLIDAYS Everything, including museums and restaurants, is closed; large shopping centers remain open. Arsen Dedić 1938. - 2015. Why Zagreb? I was asked to co-teach a travel-writing study abroad program for an American university in 2016. The reason I said yes, frankly, was because the program asked me which city I thought best for such a class. “Zagreb,” I said without hesitation. It wasn’t what they expected. U.S. universities still think of Europe as Paris, Rome, and Prague. In fact, after I said Zagreb, I still had to pause and say: “The capital of Croatia.” or residents of Zagreb, this may seem strange, because the Croatian capital is hot right now. I don’t mean temperature hot … I mean in popularity. Backpackers are everywhere. Tourism and hostel numbers are soaring. When I was first in Zagreb, in the 1990s, there was one hostel. Today, there are nearly 40. Translation: Croatian visitors are not just coming for Carpe Diem on Hvar. They are shopping on Ilica, drinking coffee in Gradec, and getting freaky on Tkalčićeva. Still, the university needed convincing. “Why Zagreb?” I told them the same thing I tell everyone planning Central Europe vacations. First, the city is easy to navigate by foot. Second, there are dozens of museums and galleries. Third, you are just a few hours from the coast, Italy, and Austria. didn’t bother mentioning that Zagreb is where I most like to drink beer and watch the world go by. F I Tip: Zagreb is a perfect base for European travel. It is cheap, has great connections and plenty of ways to get into trouble. Coolture Zagreb and I love each other in secret Arsen Dedić - a Croatian bard - was among the most prolific Croatian composers whose work is recognized across all generations. Singing chansons or composing for film, he nurtured his own unique artistic style. QuiZG 1 What is Zagreb’s tallest building? a) Sljeme Tower b) Zagreb Cathedral c) Trešnjevka heating plant 2 The first non-American film to win an Oscar - Dušan Vukotić’s Surrogate (1961) came out of the Zagreb film studio in which street? a) Vlaška b) Martićeva c) Maksimirska 3 How old is the Zagreb Zoo this summer? a) 80 b) 90 c) 100 ANSWERS 1 c Heating plant. Reaching over 200 meters, this Trešnjevka tower is the tallest edifice in Croatia; 2 a Vlaška, home to the famous Zagreb Animated Film studio; 3 b 90. The oldest resident is Mojca, a female griffin vulture who has been living there since 1985. Varaždin city’s museum quarter was nominated for the European Museum of the Year Award in 1994. ALEX CREVAR Travel writer from the United States. His work has appeared in The New York Times, National Geographic Traveler and Outside magazine @AlexCrevar OK, YOU’VE HAD FUN CLUBBING, you've checked out the bookstores, theaters and cinemas but you still want more culture? CATCH THE RODIN IN MEŠTROVIĆ’S ZAGREB show before it closes on September 20. The great French sculptor’s retrospective is part of the French Culture in Croatia Festival (Rendez-Vous). Don’t miss Rodin’s 97 works of art, including his masterpieces like The Thinker, The Kiss and Door to Hell. 8TH ZEGEVEGE - Festival of Sustainable Living takes place on September 4–5 at the Ban Jelačić Square. Meet health food producers and makers of eco cosmetic lines from Croatia and abroad, all spread over hundreds of stalls where you can also grab a vegan meal and learn about various non-forprofit organizations. HLADNO PIVO, one of the most popular music bands in Croatia and the region, plays on September 19 at Šalata. The concert is part of their Days of Closed Door tour and guarantees a two-hour roaring gig. Tickets: 80KN. PARQUET COURTS, an American rock band, plays on September 15 in Tvornica Kulture (Culture Factory). Catch this special kind of American punk genre: loud indie rock with a heavy 90s guitar sound. Tickets: 70KN. N MARK YOUR MAPS WITH THE BEST OF MARKETS Map&card ‘Going to the market’ in Zagreb is a number one cultural ritual. It’s not only about shopping for what’s local and seasonal but a way to join the daily bustle. Colorful market stalls rarely offer ready-made meals for tourists. The best thing about them is their unspoilt flavor: they are traditional meeting points of local food producers and city dwellers. Every Sunday, the otherwise daily Britanac farmers’ market transforms into a bubbly antiques fair. Stir your imagination with old books, vinyl records, quirky house decorations like doorknobs as well as socialist-era memorabilia. Trešnjevka market lies at the heart of a large residential area. The rich selection of honest fresh food is only second to Dolac. Tip: Smaller heaps of food usually means you’re buying from a local producer. Kvatrić market is the belly of an up-and-coming arty neighborhood. Scour the rich food stalls, then rest with your shopping bags in cafes and boutique shops along Martićeva. Dolac is the jewel in Zagreb’s market crown. It’s where you can shop for freshest food from all over the country - even fish! Splavnica showcases seasonal flowers and the inside market is a treasury of meat, dairy and baked goods. River Sava Hippodrome Hrelić is Zagreb’s cult flea market, open on weekend mornings. Go there for three experiences. 1) Haggle for an incredible variety of curious products: fake designer clothes, vintage vehicles, unopened letters. 2) Yummy and cheap street food. 3) Take seriously good photos. Tip: To get a good bargain, get there as early as dawn. Street food Chow down on the streets of Zagreb You have just 24 hours to experience Zagreb? Or you are here for just three days and want things to be easy? Then Zagreb Card is your best friend. Like in other big cities, it includes a map of the city and its surroundings, free transport and discounts at 150 attractions. More @zagrebcard.com TIPS& TRICKS ZAGREB TAXI HELP +385 1 1777 112 EXCHANGE RATES, (BUY RATE, AUGUST 27, 2015) € 1 7,57; $ 1 6,56; JPY 100 5,48 TIPS FOR STREET MUSICIANS If the music moves you, a 5KN coin (0.66 euro), the one with the brown bear, will do the trick. NO GUIDE? NO PROBLEM! The VoiceGuide app enables everyone to tour the city alone yet with the help of an experienced guide. The app also works offline. W MATE JANKOVIĆ Chef, columnist, TV star and Anthony Bourdain's host whenever he's here. You can find Mate at Johann Franck Mad Men Zagreb Y es! We are back! Vacation is over, back to reality. I absolutely love Zagreb this time of year. The temperature is perfect, the streets are back to being crowded and full of people in a rush. All the coffee places are full and Zagreb again becomes the city I fell in love with. I know not everyone shares my enthusiasm and I don’t blame them. It’s hard to come back home from holidays where the hardest decision was whether to jump into the sea or to slowly walk in. But for me, this is THE time to be in Zagreb. This is the time you feel the city waking up. t is a cycle that repeats every year, a new beginning. You look forward to seeing your friends. Everybody is relaxed, with a nice tan, telling you stories of their vacation. Kids go back to school, business is starting to roll and suits are back. I miss suits during summer. Zagreb is a city made for suits. Sometimes it feels like a Mad Men episode, only with less drinking and more beautiful women. ou can actually feel the breeze cooling down the streets, giving us a chance to enjoy sitting in the sun. It won’t last for long, fall is just around the corner. Did I tell you that fall is my favorite season? I guess I have to leave something for the next issue. Enjoy Zagreb. It’s so easy this time of year. I Y Zagreb is a city that is made for suits. Sometimes it feels like a Mad Men episode, with less drinking, and more beautiful women hile Zagreb people love to eat their food on the go, you won’t find city pockets lined up with busy stalls. There aren’t any. The street food scene is quite subtle. Instead, follow the smell of quintessential snacks that locals take on their walks and errands around town. Late summer is the season for the corn on the cob. Have it boiled or roasted from vendors nestled at squares and street corners. Street fruit stands (Tomislav square, the corner of Ilica and Frankopanska) provide healthy snacks of locally sourced organic fruit. And right now is the time for blackberries! A customary morning bite features a scrumptious pastry you can get in the city’s ubiquitous bakeries. Tip: try bučnica (savory pumpkin strudel) at any of the branches My favorite Zagreb street food are sandwiches at Pingvin, chestnuts at Flower Square in fall and Zagreb’s first burrito in Masarykova.’ - Morana Zibar, food writer of Dinara bakery (Dolac, Flower Square, Gajeva 8). Zagreb locals often take their street breakfast into a cafe. It’s an unwritten rule so waiters won’t mind you eating food bought elsewhere. If you want a quick bite, look for hole-inthe-wall kiosks with pizza slices, sandwiches, kebabs and such. The best street food after partying the night away is served by Pingvin (Teslina 7). This legendary sandwich bar is open until 4am and serves top-notch grub. There’s nothing like their sliced steak sandwich after a long night out. 4 am HIP-HOP LEGENDS RETURN TO JARUN If you missed a live gig from Onyx, an American hard-core hip-hop band founded by Sticky Fingaz and Fredro Starr in 1988, you now have a second chance. Their third visit to Zagreb is scheduled for September 11 when they’ll launch their Against all Authorities EP, at the Aquarius club at 9pm. Onyx and Aquarius have a lot in common - they rose to fame around the same time and they’re famous for hip hop mastery. We expect you there, and at the after party! NEED TO KNOW FOR SMOKERS Many cafes, bars and clubs tolerate smokers but where it says smoking is prohibited, take your smoke outside. RENT YOUR OWN TWO WHEELS Bikes can be rented at 13 locations around the city, half of which are in the center. Just look out for a Nextbike station or check out nextbike.hr. The first half an hour is free; one hour costs 8KN; five hours (and up to 24 hours) goes for 79KN. FOR RAINY DAYS... The Šestine umbrella is one of Zagreb's most recognizable souvenirs. Grab yours at one of the souvenir shops on Bakačeva street, below the Cathedral. A FEE TO PEE Public toilets at shops, markets and bus and train stations charge two kunas. Cafes and restaurants will let you use the loo for free. CAN I DRINK WATER FROM THE PUMPS? The old iron pumps, popularly called 'Iron Franceki' remain an image of childhood for many elderly citizens of Zagreb. Today the Pimp My Pump art group paint them over with symbols of popular culture. And, yes, the water is good for drinking. SMALL TAILOR REPAIRS If you need small tailor repairs, pick one of two tailors (Mega-Cif or Cik Cak) in Prilaz Sestara Baković, the small passageway that connects Masarykova and Varšavska streets. MORE INFO APPS Don't waste paper. Use it or . . . . . . Meet in Zagreb Zagreb Zagreb be There Places