- Zagreb For You
Transcription
- Zagreb For You
LIMITED EDITION FREE COPY No. 07 INSTAGRAM* OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2015. Fall means not the end of fun in Zagreb Z Z on Facebook agreb fall - from end of summer to Christmastime - is all fun and games. Just look at this issue of Zagreb for You: from busy Zagreb marathons or 13 days of Halloween (page 2), buzz on the Medvednica mountain or at the Zagreb Film Festival (page 3) to the bustling Martićeva, Tomićeva and Tkalčićeva streets. The action never stops. And it’s nowhere near Advent yet... MIDDAY TAKE-OFF Find yourself in Zagreb unprepared at noon sharp and you’ll get a fright of your life or at least a serious shake-up and startle. Every day, midday is marked by a 130dB loud cannon fire going off from the Lotrščak Tower. Though a tradition since 1877, the Grič cannon still startles both locals and visitors who think there’s a jet plane taking off near them. Lotrščak Tower was part of Zagreb’s medieval defense, ringing the bells each night before the town gates closed. Over time, it played multiple roles – it was a chapel, army arsenal, town winery and fire observatory. Climb up to the top for a stunning vista of the city. Talkabout Croatia ZAGREB’S SPORT SCENE is shaking ANJA MUTIĆ Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for New York Magazine and The Washington Post. Follow her at @everthenomad Happy when it rains I t will soon start to rain. I’ll pull out my rain boots, the pile of umbrellas to color-match my clothes, rummage through drawers for light sweaters... I’ll start to sip my morning macchiato indoors. The air will smell of plane trees. Chestnut vendors will roast their brown treats on street corners, and each one I pass, I’ll remember how my late father loved them. Year of construction: 13th century Height: 30m Wall thickness: 195cm Grič cannon loudness: 130dB T he skies will turn moody. Winds will pick up. Leaves will flutter about, and get crunchy under my feet. P A I oetry will sneak into my writing. nd as it all happens, it’ll still be raining. Drop by drop. OPENING HOURS: 9am-9pm TICKETS: adults 20KN children 10KN WORD Kiša (ki-sha) Rain, Regen, Pluie, Lluvia, Pioggia, Chuva 雨 비 雨 In competition with Bordeaux, Lisbon, Athens, Valletta, Riga, Ljubljana, Innsbruck, Milan, Brussels *2014 Zagreb was the sixth best destination in Europe Easiest way to remember Zagreb If you already picked up the usual suspects among Zagreb souvenirs, like a licitar heart, a Šestine umbrella or a tie, look for the latest favorite: Meet Zagreb - Memory Zagreb. This pocket-size memory board game features Zagreb sights & attractions. Grab it at any souvenir shop, bookstore or city gallery. Price: 38KN. @mcroatia.com love Zagreb when it rains. And I love it when sun appears through a crack in the clouds one fall afternoon, and then it hits puddles of water collected in the creases of broken asphalt, and suddenly it’s all shining, the city is so pretty and it feels as if never ever rained. F all is face time with Zagreb. It’s when the city shows its true temperamental self. If you happen to be around, give it time to take in the highs and the lows, the downpours and the sun. It’s the pairing that will stick even after you leave, Zagreb’s yin and yang. MY FALL FAVORITES Cup of coffee at Blok Bar Stroll through Maksimir as leaves change color Readings at Booksa A hike up Medvednica Don't waste paper. Use it or . . . . zagreb-touristinfo.hr with the major league frenzy. Dinamo Zagreb triumphed over Arsenal, and Zagreb Kiel, Cedevita and Medveščak (handball, basketball and hockey teams respectively) have never been stronger. If you’re not at a sport court or stadium to share the thrill of Zagreb’s sport renaissance, check out the recently opened Brewdogs, a sports bar that houses 30 big flat screens and serves custom-made steak. OKO (EYE) at the Museum of Contemporary Arts (MSU) is a cutting-edge street art performance taking shape in real time. For the past month, the artist OKO has been painting a 90m-long mural covering the western wall of the MSU entrance. Catch her work in progress before it’s finished on Oct 13. Find out more about Zagreb’s best-known street artist at 3oko. blogspot.hr & about her project at @msu.hr. ZAGREB MAJORETTES won Europe’s gold third year running. After the victory in France, they did their baton magic at the Eurobasket opening. 600 of them, the oldest being 25 and the youngest only 3, perform 250 days a year. No city parade happens without them. New graduates are currently being auditioned for the next line-up. More on @mazoretkinje.hr. ZAGREB’S MOST TALKED ANIMAL is Ante the anteater, a new Zoo inhabitant and a gift from the UK. Ante needs a proper name so if you want to pitch your idea, enter the contest by Oct 18. @zoo.hr Keep in touch! Download your free copy and share: zagreb4you.com Project 30° Zagreb was more commonly known outside Croatia by its Austrian German exonym Agram PIXSELL * what*where*when* ZAGREB CITY MARATHON Get spooked during 13 Days of Halloween Zagreb city marathon is slated to kick off on October 24, with the kids’ race running the day before. The start and finish lines are on Ban Jelačić Square. If you’re up for it, the deadline for entering is October 7. @zagreb-marathon.com ZAGREB RESTAURANT WEEK The tastiest week in Zagreb is currently on, through Oct 11. Select restaurants around the city traditionally showcase their fall culinary delights without charging you a bomb. You can enjoy a three-course meal, with a glass of wine, for as little as 100KN. Pick your favorite place at tjedanrestorana.com and let the chefs do their magic. STREET ART 2.0 Street art of today has gone beyond using a can of spray: think digital pens, cameras, projectors and QR codes. Find out about its history - from graffiti to light art - at Street Art 2.0: Innovation at the Heart of Movement. The exhibition is on at Klovićevi Dvori throughout October. @ rendez-vous.hr A s autumn evenings set in and fog creeps up the Upper Town streets, ancient tales of mystery bubble up. Sharing stories that featured witches, dragons and ghosts was once common entertainment for the city dwellers. The darkest of them all was the legend of the Black Queen. This ruthless sorcerer would send her giant raven to peck peasants to near death or throw her lovers to the mercy of hungry wild boars. She is still among us, in the form of a snake, watchfully guarding her cursed treasure. You can hear this one and many more legends told by the Black Queen herself when you join the 13 Days of Halloween walking tours. The program is on every Traces of old Celtic people were found in the Upper Town, so Halloween customs go back a long time night October 19-31, and available in English. Tickets: 50KN; free for children under 13 (must be accompanied). @secret-zagreb.com "After dusk, make sure you wear your socks inside out: dark forces fear silly people. We’ll keep demons away with the light from our pumpkin," - Iva Silla, tourist guide NEW 102.5 FM - frequency for real people and real art Lauba Head over to Lauba for the Superheroes 2.0 exhibition, unveiling bizarre and personal sides to Batman, Superman, Hulk and the rest of the comic books crew. @lauba.hr auba – the self-dubbed ‘house for people and art’ – is a former Austro-Hungarian riding stable turned contemporary art showroom. Tucked away in an industrial stretch of western Zagreb, this one-of-a-kind building tends to art in a way-out way. Here, the showroom is called playroom and visitors usually become devoted members. Lauba’s monumental open space gets you up close and personal with art: you can touch exhibits, and follow dance performers. A hybrid between a gallery and a museum, this vibrant hub gathers art-makers and art-lovers, who mingle over coffee and wine. auba’s second-floor gallery is home to Yammat FM, a new Zagreb radio whose hosts are the legendary crew from the cult L Sanjin Kaštelan L Yammat FM music collection symbolically reaches the number of their frequency: 102,500 tracks, and growing. Radio 101 from the 1990s. Even if you miss round-the-clock jokes in Croatian, their music selection will keep you in good spirits. ‘In the world of fastfood radio stations,’ says the radio host Švec, ‘Yammat is your "People listen to us because we’re down to earth. We’re honest. There’s no botoxed reality at Yammat FM," Alen Balen, Yammat FM director granny’s slow-cooked food.’ 102.5 FM will serve you with much more than the best 100s from the charts, including up-and-coming Croatian bands. Radio is art too, so no wonder Lauba and Yammat make such a good match. Food, fun & design on Martićeva street M artićeva is booming. A 10-minute stroll eastbound of the main square, this street has two brand-new openings. An oldtimer, Divas cafe has a living room with a twist ambience, plus great coffee and homemade cakes. If you’re after a lunch bite, head further down the street to the recently unveiled Divas Bistro (Martićeva 14F). Less camp than its sister cafe, the bistro has a daily menu of simple but delicious grub – think prawn quiche and chickpea stews. The interior is airy and artsy, light and bright, with quirky details. roatian Design Superstore showcases work by local designers. Grab ‘Croatia a la carte’ (cookbook and a game) or Boya crayons as souvenirs from your travels. If you get C overwhelmed by choice, chill out in their newly opened and the city’s reddest café (literally: it’s all painted red). The coffee brew – courtesy of Franck, Croatia’s oldest roaster – almost begs to be sipped outside, slumped in a deckchair. The Design Superstore’s very own take-out food brand Takolako (So Easy), sorts you out with either traditional bites or gluten-free sandwiches. It’s easy to please the most discerning palate, not so easy to leave this hip place. Miljenko Bernfest Sanjin Kaštelan "Takolako is a healthy and unusual take on the local cuisine. Try our zlevanka (cornbread with cottage cheese) or chilled beetroot soup with cream and coriander.” – Ira Payer, creative director Medvednica: A day in nature MONOVIEW GET YOUR ZEN ON & FIND YOUR CHILL ZONE IN ZAGREB TO GET YOUR ZEN ON, WHERE DO YOU GO? I get my daily dose of zen on the yoga mat practicing. Off the mat, I love to take long walks with my dog Seeta. We both love the woods and the Dubravkin Put trail, the Snježana Nina Vukas Owner & Cmrok park and getting founder of Sangha lost in Tuškanac forest. Yoga Studio & YOUR FALL FAVORITES IN School ZAGREB... I love fall. It’s still warm enough to spend time outside so I have lunch at Zrno vegetarian bistro, dinner at Mundoaka, a drink with friends in Melin or Krolo bar, a slice of cake at Fine Torte... Medvednica, the mountain behind Zagreb, is the most beautiful this time of year with leaves turning yellow, red and orange. I like to hike up and reward myself with a homemade walnut cake at Puntijarka mountain hut. YOUR RAINY DAY HIDEAWAYS... It’s great to hole up for a drink at the cozy & beautiful Black Velvet café when it’s raining outside. For great food, I love Mali Bar with a cute interior and tasty tapas made with fresh seasonal ingredients. It’s fun to share different dishes with friends. Love their homemade pastas and creative salads. Sometimes I’ll catch a movie in Kino Europa or the Kaptol Centar multiplex. ZAGREB’S BEST YOGA DROP-INS... Clearly, Sangha Yoga, just up from the main square on beautiful Radićeva street. :) If you’re into Ashtanga, GaiaYoga or Pink Elephant are both great options. If aerial yoga is your thing, head to Velvet Pepper studio. For Dharma yoga, Divya is a good option. BEST SPOTS TO GET LOST IN NATURE CMROK PARK, TUŠKANAC FOREST AND MEDVEDNICA MOUNTAIN What does Zagreb smell like in the fall Sugarcoat your trip with kremšnita: a dainty custard cream cake with puff pastry Sljeme is dotted with more than 20 mountain lodges and huts. These are perfect places to recharge your used-up calories: order a hearty sausage bean stew and sweet or savory strudel; don’t forget to wash it down with gemišt. #food #wine Bliznec hiking trail is friendly to the less-abled visitors. It’s less than 1km long, accessible to people in wheelchairs, the blind and ideal for the parents with small children in strollers. #disabled #education #children Horvat’s 500 Stairs, the most impressive sight on Medvednica, have been completely hand-built. The height difference between the first and the last stair is 117m. Those who are into vistas, precipices and caves will love the Dwarf’s Cave along this hiking trail. #adventure Homecoming I love autumn generally … but I can’t wait for it in Zagreb. It’s not just the weather. Though it is great in the Croatian capital. There’s a crispness that accompanies its continental location and the leafy parks scattered across town and the men starting to roast chestnuts on street corners in the city leaning up and into the Dinaric Alps. It sure isn’t because school is starting back. I couldn’t stand school as a student. How I graduated from high school, college or anything else is a mystery. Though I have to admit I liked the first week of school. Something like a new beginning mixed with beer and girls. In Zagreb, essentially, I have the start of a new academic cycle without having to attend classes. Odlično. t isn’t only because of the food—white truffles, olive oil, and the excitement of the grape harvest. Though the regions to the east (Slavonia), west (Istria), and south (Dalmatia) are better known for wine, it is in Croatia’s main city that I have opened the majority of the bottles I’ve emptied in the country. o, it isn’t one of these things. It is all of them. And, the fact that Zagreb’s residents are returning with stories of the sea and a genuine excitement to be back—a homecoming. Sweaters on. Coffees in hand. The long autumn afternoon light stretching down Ilica. I N Tip: Visit restaurants, like Lari & Penati, with seasonal menus to enjoy the cornucopia Croatia offers. Coolture the bookstores, theaters and cinemas but you still want more culture? For all you digital nomads passing through or spending time in Zagreb, Sanjin Kaštelan 90 min Eight cycling routes meander across the leafy Medvednica slopes, all eventually connecting with one transverse route. They are signposted with numbers 1–9 and cleverly laid out so you can choose when to hop on and off to create your unique itinerary. #mountainbike ALEX CREVAR Travel writer from the United States. His work has appeared in The New York Times, National Geographic Traveler and Outside magazine @AlexCrevar OK, YOU’VE HAD FUN CLUBBING, you've checked out @notesofzagreb.com A pretty medieval town a mere 20-minute drive west from Zagreb, Samofrom Zagreb bor is a foodie mecca with the tradition of both regal and humble dishes. Before you dig in, stroll around its postcard-perfect streets or go hiking to nearby rolling hills, home to famous wineries and romantic castle ruins. It’s a perfect way to enjoy a guilt-free kremšnita (custard cream cake) at the central Cafe Livadić or a hearty meat dish in Pri Staroj Vuri restaurant. Wash your food down with bermet, an aromatic red wine. #hiking #jogging Cowork & create at Impact Hub scented candles, all inspired by different scents of Zagreb and infused with more exotic hints of oud, amber, sandalwood and frankincense. The names are fun, too, such as The Witch of Grich, Secret of the Bloody Bridge and the Well of Life. Grab a bottle of Zagreb so you can sniff it anytime you wish? Skalinska 2; Samobor - a town where foodies feast N guilt-free There are over 70 hiking trails on Medvednica. The most popular is Bikčevićeva route (known as trail 18), connecting the Sljeme Tunnel with the Puntijarka mountain lodge. At times a bit challenging, it’s still a favorite for many hikers and joggers. for all you creatives and creators, social innovators and entrepreneurs, we found a perfect collaborative space where you can work up a creative storm, test out your ideas and meet a vibrant local community: Impact Hub Zagreb. Inside a sprawling apartment a stroll east of the city center, it offers various coworking options, from day rates to 24/7 unlimited membership. You get coffee & tea for free, access to fun events and an instant community of local peers, and international ones – there are 70 Impact Hub spaces around the world! @zagreb.impacthub.net QuiZG 1 Green or Lenuzzi Horseshoe in Zagreb’s city center consists of: a) 7 squares & the Botanical Garden b) 5 squares & the Botanical Garden c) 9 squares & the Botanical Garden 2 Zagreb trams come with numbers 1 to 17. How many tram lines are there? a) 13 b) 15 c) 17 3 Which Oscar-winning movie was shot in Zagreb and produced by Branko Lustig (producer of Schindler’s List and the Gladiator)? a) The Tin Drum b) Fiddler on the Roof c) Sophie’s Choice ANSWERS 1 a. Green Horseshoe consists of 7 squares: Nikola Šubić Zrinski, Josip Juraj Strossmayer, King Tomislav, Ante Starčević, Antun and Vladimir Mažuranić and Marshall Tito; 2 b. There are 15 tram lines. Lines 10 and 16 no longer operate.; 3 c. Sophie’s Choice from 1982 starring Meryl Street, directed by Alan J. Pakula. C hestnut wood and plane trees, with a hint of just fallen rain... Those are the scents of Zagreb in the fall. You may just fall in love with them and if you do, you’re in luck – there’s a store that sells them! Notes of Zagreb carries home fragrances – think diffusers, room sprays, incense sticks, textile sprays, dog perfumes and Zagreb lies at the foot of the Medvednica Mountain. Sljeme, its highest peak (1033m), is a popular day trip destination for locals and visitors alike. NEPALESE MUSICIANS DEVA PREMAL & MITEN accompanied by the bansuri master Manose visit Zagreb as part of their Songs for the Sangha world tour. Head to Lisinski concert hall on October 15 to listen to ancient Indian and Tibetan mantras. Tickets: 200-300KN @entrio.hr THE MEMORABLE FINNISH CELLO QUARTET APOCALYPTICA made their fame covering Metallica’s hits. Catch them live in Tvornica on October 15 when they’ll be promoting their new album Shadowmake. Tickets: 150KN @eventim.hr ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM IS CURRENTLY SHOWING ‘PEOPLE AND THE SEA’ - stories about the role of traditional fishery in Croatia told through material objects, such as tools and boats. Exhibition is on until the end of October. @emz.hr EKO LIMACH FEST is a children’s fest dedicated to ecology and designed for kids age 3-12. Head over with the wee ones to Maksimir on October 4 and have fun at interactive and educational workshops. Free entry. @park-maksimir.hr REGIONAL POP STAR BAJAGA and his band Instruktori are doing a big live gig on October 24 at Dom Sportova. Tickets: 90KN @eventim.hr Orson Welles in Zagreb: in spirit and in motion Zagreb Film Festival showcases features and documentaries by young up-and-coming filmmakers. Some will continue in the steps of past laureates, such as Steve McQueen, Radu Jude and Uberto Pasolini. The new genre on the program is ‘The Making Of,’ featuring behind-the-scenes documentaries. True cinephiles will enjoy the centenary Orson Welles retrospective. Many scenes from Welles’ Process were shot in locations across Zagreb. Screenings take place in Europa and Tuškanac cinemas November 14-22. @zagrebfilmfestival.com N Abrakadabra! Night at the Zagreb Zoo ONE YEAR TO GO BEFORE A SECRET ZAGREB TUNNEL BECOMES A TOURIST THRILL At nightfall, Zagreb Zoo transforms into an enchanted fantasy land. Only the light in children’s hearts can break the evil spell. In comes the good witch to protect the little ones as they meet nocturnal animals. This three-hour educational program for children and parents runs Oct 15–31, twice daily: 6pm & 8pm. Pumpkin carving workshop over muffins and a hot drink included! Tickets: children age 5-14 35KN, adults 60KN. @www.zoo.hr Grič tunnel is among the many hidden underground tunnels that run beneath Zagreb’s Upper Town. Few people have seen these mysterious passages but hush-hush stories about them abound. This year, Zagreb’s mayor visited the Grič tunnel and publicly announced: the tunnel will become a unique 21st-century walking tour showcasing a multi-sensory experience using advanced digital technology. Radićeva Upper Town Me The tunnel was built in 1943 as an air raid shelter. It served its original purpose once again during the 1990s war. It has been closed ever since, which created a cloud of mystery around it. Museum of the Senses is slated to open in 2016 and promises to be Europe’s one-of-a-kind tourist attraction. It will feature permanent exhibitions, concerts, an alternative city promenade, holograms and animations giving visitors a spine-tingling experience. sni čka Grič tunnel runs parallel to Ilica, connecting Radićeva and Mesnička streets. Opening up this 350m-long and 3m-wide ‘catacomb’ will revive the sleepy Upper Town. This offbeat museum will be anything but a house of the dead. “The chamber of secrets is now open” says one of the graffiti in the tunnel, written during a curious one-off opening of the tunnel: the Under City Rave party that took place here on October 30, 1993. Map&card Ban Jelačić Square Ilica Put Zagreb's ćevapi on your comfort food menu PIXSELL You have just 24 hours to experience Zagreb? Or you are here for just three days and want things to be easy? Then Zagreb Card is your best friend. Like in other big cities, it includes a map of the city and its surroundings, free transport and discounts at 150 attractions. More @zagrebcard.com TIPS& TRICKS ZAGREB V MATE JANKOVIĆ Chef, columnist, TV star and Anthony Bourdain's host whenever he's here. Why I love fall A fter a long and hot summer you get pretty exhausted being sweaty, looking for a place in the shade while drinking your bottled water and praying for some rain. That time has come, my favorite time of year. Believe it or not, it’s fall. I love the yellow and brown leaves, the rain, sipping on a hot green tea.... Imagine a great bar with soul and funk music playing while you look out the window watching the rain fall and all imaginable colors of umbrellas mixing and creating a 60’s LSD-influenced video. Cafe terraces are empty and everybody is searching for hidden booths in packed bars. he concert season kicks off and you get to catch some really interesting bands, shows, stand-ups and plays. Restaurants are full again, suits are back in town and you get to see business deals being made. Zagreb is alive! es sure, you spend more time in your car, and you sure dislike driving in pouring rain. But I am sure you appreciate lazy Sundays while raindrops play drums on your window. A lot of people complain about the weather. But if you love life, no weather can spoil your day. Nothing can spoil my fall in Zagreb. Zagreb is THE place for fall. Enjoy it before you start to miss that blanket of leaves beneath your feet. T Y Tip: Slump up in a cosy bar and do some colorful umbrella-watching through the window - feel the zen kicking in. egetarians aside, eveybody likes ćevapi: a grilled ground meat dish served with a flatbread called lepinja. By origin a Turkish speciality, it’s been slightly adapted to local tastes. You can find ćevapi almost everywhere, from central Zagreb to the far-out neighborhoods. The go-to which guarantees the taste of the Balkans even at 5am is Dolac. Dotted around the market, a bunch of grill places serve ćevapi with onion or kajmak (cheese spread). Out west, in the Črnomerec neighborhood (last stop on trams 2, 6, 11, 12), Mitnica grill is the place to be: the interior is nothing to be looked at but the juiciness of their ćevapi (made from beef shoulder) is legendary. Stick around the area to sample other meat dishes in the more recently opened Paulaner grill bar (Črnomerec TAXI HELP +385 1 1777 112 From posh restaurants to take-out joints, nothing is more of a staple food than ćevapi. Use cutlery or get your fingers greasy: everything goes 102). If you prefer lamb on a spit or veal under the bell (traditional way of roasting meat), head to Trnjanka (Trnjanska Cesta 31). ot all grills have the same flavor. For the balanced aroma of wood grill, check out Bistro M&Z (Antuna Augustinčića 8). There’s even a factory of grilled meat, better known as Kod Koste (Savska 107/1) where you get the so-called superćevapi. The place is always crowded but it’s worth the wait. If you want to see meat being grilled in front of you, look out for the family-run Aba grill (Heinzlova 74). N 4 am GOING ALL-OUT AT THE ELECTRONIC BEATS MARATHON PARTY Electronic Beats arrives to Zagreb - your perfect chance to join hundreds of thousands of dancers all over Europe. Check out the main action in three clubs: Sirup on November 6, Močvara on November 7 and Teatar &td on both days. No less than 13 bands, including Talisco, Young Fathers and DJ Koza, have been carefully selected by Pyztek for maximum fun. EXCHANGE RATES, (BUY RATE, OCTOBER 1, 2015) € 1 7,65; $ 1 6,81; JPY 100 5,68 TIPS FOR STREET MUSICIANS If the music moves you, a 5KN coin (0.66 euro), the one with the brown bear, will do the trick. NO GUIDE? NO PROBLEM! The VoiceGuide app enables everyone to tour the city alone yet with the help of an experienced guide. The app also works offline. NEED TO KNOW FOR SMOKERS Many cafes, bars and clubs tolerate smokers but where it says smoking is prohibited, take your smoke outside. RENT YOUR OWN TWO WHEELS Bikes can be rented at 13 locations around the city, half of which are in the center. Just look out for a Nextbike station or check out nextbike.hr. The first half an hour is free; one hour costs 8KN; five hours (and up to 24 hours) goes for 79KN. FOR RAINY DAYS... The Šestine umbrella is one of Zagreb's most recognizable souvenirs. Grab yours at one of the souvenir shops on Bakačeva street, below the Cathedral. BOOK AN APARTMENT Experience the city like a local and book an apartment. Great choices, among many: ZigZag Apartments & Rooms (www.zigzag.hr), Main Square Apartment (www. apartment-mainsquare.com) and Pisac Apartment (www. honestly.hr) MORE INFO APPS Meet in Zagreb Zagreb Zagreb be There Places