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MARCH 2014 | SERVING AMERICA’S FINEST BEER COUNTY | SAN DIEGO
Ladies of
Local Beer
PROFILES:
San Diego Suds Sorority
Featured Fan: Vista’s Teresa Swift
SDSU Program Director Giana Rodriguez
Waypoint Public Executive Chef Amanda Baumgarten
VOL. 4 NO. 4
FREE COPY
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Left: Amanda Baumgarten, Executive
Chef at Waypoint Public in North
Park. Read more about her starting
on page 31. Photo by Tyler Graham
(leadsandgrievances.com)
Below: WC Art Director Brittany Everett
getting wrapped up in the fun of
brewery hopping, late 2012.
Dear Local Beer Drinker,
In this issue we celebrate Women’s History Month by spotlighting some
of the local ladies who are helping push our beer scene to new heights.
And because we were only able to cover a fraction of these women
here, we’ll continue highlighting more next month and beyond.
I’d also like to give a big shoutout to our own lady of local beer,
Art Director Brittany Everett. She’s moving up in the San Francisco
culinary world, and with less time on her plate, this is the last issue
she’s designed for us. WC publisher Mike Shess has known Brittany
since kindergarten, and without her and husband Josh Everett, West
Coaster would not exist. Kudos to them for putting up with late nights,
missed deadlines, and small budgets.
Simply, they’ve put their collective heart and soul into helping us
succeed, without asking for much in return. That awesome directory
in the back? All their doing. When we transitioned from newspaper
to magazine? They spearheaded critical components of that massive
change. And many of the ads you see — Brittany designed those as
well. So, in short, Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!
Salud,
Ryan Lamb
Executive Editor
West Coaster
WRITERS
COLUMNIST
INTO THE
BREW
Sam Tierney is a graduate of the
Siebel Institute and Doemens World
Beer Academy brewing technology diploma program. He currently
works as a brewer at Firestone
Walker Brewing Company and has
most recently passed the Certified
Cicerone® exam. He geeks out on
all things related to brewing, beer
styles, and beer history.
COLUMNIST
PLATES & PINTS
Brandon Hernández is a native San
Diegan and the author of the San Diego Beer News Complete Guide to San
Diego Breweries (available on Amazon.
com). In addition to his on-staff work for
West Coaster, he is responsible for communications for local craft beer producer
Stone Brewing Company; an editor for
Zagat; the San Diego correspondent
for Celebrator Beer News; and contributes articles on beer, food, restaurants
and other such killer topics to national
publications including USA TODAY, The
Beer Connoisseur, Beer West, Beer
Magazine, Imbibe and Wine Enthusiast
as well as local outlets including The San
Diego Reader, Edible San Diego, Pacific
San Diego, Ranch & Coast, San Diego
Magazine and U-T San Diego.
COLUMNIST
THE CARBOY
CHRONICLES
Ryan Reschan is a long time resident of North County San Diego, and
he first got into craft beer during his
time at UC San Diego while completing a degree in Electrical Engineering. Skipping the macro lagers,
he enjoyed British and Irish style ales
before discovering the burgeoning
local beer scene in North County
and the rest of the country. After
his introduction to brewing beer by
a family friend, he brewed sparingly
with extract until deciding to further
his knowledge and transition into
all-grain brewing. Between batches
of beer, he posts video beer reviews
on YouTube (user: StumpyJoeJr)
multiple times a week along with
occasional homebrew videos and
footage of beer events he attends.
COLUMNIST
THE DOCTOR’S
OFFICE
Gonzalo J. Quintero, Ed.D. is a San
Diego native, three-time SDSU grad,
career educator, and co-founder of the
popular multimedia craft beer discussion
craftbeertasters.com. An avid homebrewer, Cicerone Certified Beer Server,
and seasoned traveler, Dr. Quintero takes
great pride in educating people about
craft beer and the craft beer culture. By
approaching the subject from the perspective of a scholar and educator, Dr.
Quintero has developed a passion for
spreading the good word of local beer.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
25-27
COLUMNS
The Carboy Chronicles
Ryan Reschan features San Diego Suds Sorority, a new allwomen homebrew club that meets at White Labs every month
31-33
Plates & Pints
Brandon Hernández profiles Amanda Baumgarten, Executive
Chef at Waypoint Public in North Park, and shares some of her
recipes
35-37
The Doctor’s Office
Gonzalo Quintero (“Dr. Q”) interviews Giana Rodriguez,
Program Director at San Diego State University’s Craft Beer
Program
38
11-12
Into the Brew
Sam Tierney discusses the evolution of India pale ale and what
the new influx of session IPA could mean to the style
PLUS +
Brews in the News
Paragraph-sized clips of SD beer news. Got tips on stories?
E-mail [email protected]
14
Pink Boots Bottle Share
Photos from a recent event at Stone Brewing World Bistro &
Gardens – Liberty Station
17
Beerstagrammers
A grid of 9 local lady Instagram users that are helping promote
SD beer with every “double-tap”
18-19
Featured Fan
Marc Figueroa profiles Teresa Swift, a local Vista resident who
tries as many beers from local breweries as possible
20
Women in the Brewplace
Marta Jankowska from ChuckAlek ponders the intersection of
beer and family, and how the industry can help
22
Q&A with Paige McWey
The San Diego Brewers Guild Executive Administrator
discusses the guild’s plans, upcoming events and more
23
Hoppy Yoga
Locals Lynne Officer and Mia Sabatino have started offering
yoga classes on weekends inside brewery tasting rooms
28-29
Crafting San Diego
Vince Vasquez goes more in-depth into the new NUSIPR study
released in February showing big growth for local craft beer
39-43
Craft Beer Directory & Map
Are we missing any locations?
E-mail [email protected]
44
Glossary
Terms that start with “S”
straight from the beer
educators at CraftBeer.com
ON THE COVER:
Kara Robinson (left) and Melani
Gordon from TapHunter.com,
helping prep ingredients for the
Meaty Beety Big and Bouncy IIPA
Brewbies beer, as Karen Blair (with
paddle) and Hanna Kirchenbauer
helm the brewhouse.
PLATES & PINTS
ALL THAT...
and She Can Brew
San Diego Top Chef shares
passion for craft beer, cooking
and homebrewing
BY BRANDON HERNÁNDEZ
P
icture it, a big name head chef
sweating over a steaming pot in
the back of a restaurant. It’s an
image likely conjured by just
about anyone who’s ever contemplated what life is like in a
professional kitchen. The majority of such
wonderers probably envision a male in that
lead gastronome role, but that’s not the case
with this month’s spotlighted culinarian—
London-trained, Michelin-starred eaterytested Amanda Baumgarten, executive chef
and partner at North Park’s new and booming Waypoint Public.
And were one to drill down beyond the
pot-stirrer and into the heavy metal receptacle, they wouldn’t see a simmering stock
or slowly reducing sauce. Instead, they just
away, wafting out scents of bready cereal
and spicy hops to intermingle with the
equally pleasant aromas of slow-braised
meats and other delectable edibles on her
gastropub’s eclectic menu.
Though most locals know Baumgarten
-
ing for supremacy during season seven of
Bravo TV’s reality competition show, Top
Chef, and subsequent work helming Herringbone restaurant in La Jolla and, now,
Waypoint Public, there’s even more to this
epicurean than her impressive résumé and
formidable cooking skills. On top of her
kitchen prowess, Baumgarten is also an
avid homebrewer. Though, to be fair, her
fermentation forays haven’t taken place in
a traditional domicile setting. The chef prefers to create in a similarly natural habitat.
“I’ve always brewed in restaurant kitchdustrial ice machine a great help,” says
Baumgarten, who sees brewing as a natural
extension of her culinary interest. “I love
that beer is such a blank canvas. The possibilities are endless when it comes to develing into a homebrew store is exactly like
walking into an art studio. The combination
of grains, yeasts and hops are endless…and
then you get into secondary fermentation
Clearly, Baumgarten is no novice. Her
Amanda at the helm. Photo by Tyler Graham
(leadsandgrievances.com)
ly invested. When it comes to styles, she
exhibits a bent toward riffs on classic European brews. She’s gone as far as attempting
to mimic the mineral content of Bavarian
water for a particular beer recipe. “I have
this really nerdy side to me, so I get really
into the chemical process.”
Like most beer enthusiasts, the science
sent her down the sudsy rabbit hole was
an appreciation for consuming the beverage. That love of ales and lagers manifests
itself in many ways, from her brewing to
bringing her talents to her current stomping
grounds. The chef realizes that, while many
diners readily understand how well wine
and food go together, beer-and-food as a
pairable medium is still largely undiscovered and uncharted territory in the culinary
world. Understanding the nearly limitless
nature of the two, she was excited to further
the beer-and-food movement via Waypoint
WestCoasterSD.com | 31
Public.
Her vehicle for syncing suds is what she refers to as “craveable, unpretentious and, most importantly, yummy” cuisine.
“The only thing I strive to do with my food is make people
happy. Waypoint Public is a ‘chef-driven’ restaurant, but I
really try not to make it about me. A restaurant should have a
relationship with its public, and that’s something that I continuously try to foster.”
So far, dishes like an indulgently meaty cassoulet, mussels and pork belly in a sherry and tomato broth, hearty veal
osso bucco and lesser seen offerings (in San Diego, at least)
like fried green tomatoes, stuffed pig’s trotters and housemade blood sausage, have served as able and addictive laurel
branches to North Park residents and visitors alike. Waypoint
that mirrors Baumgarten’s individual vivacity. And every
dish on her menu comes with recommended pairings from
an impressive and deep list of draft and bottle offerings.
“I’d like to see Waypoint Public as the premier location
for food and beer pairing in the city,” says Baumgarten. It’s
a lofty goal considering the number of quality craft beer eateries in San Diego, but her understanding of beer and food,
coupled with the immense body of beery knowledge possessed by her Waypoint Public beverage directing counterpart, Brian Jensen of Bottlecraft fame, makes that aspiration
seem feasible.
Not surprisingly, Baumgarten’s grasp of craft beer in the
culinary sense extends to its use as a cooking ingredient.
The main message she communicates when asked about that
with. It’s not like wine. When wine reduces down, it lends
acidity to a sauce, but beer can become quite bitter when it
reduces. So, you need to be careful to choose the right beers,”
because they lend texture and sweetness to a sauce.”
More evidence of Baumgarten’s knowhow is provided in
the recipes accompanying this article. She has gifted West
Coaster readers with a trio of dishes from Waypoint Public’s
menu. All of them are built to be paired with another recipe
she’s providing, a script for one of her all-time favorite personal homebrews, a Belgian-style saison infused with apricots, chili de arbol, juniper, fresh savory and vanilla beans.
Designed to celebrate what Baumgarten describes as natural
partners in apricots and juniper berries, it brings citrus, herbaceous and spice notes to this traditional farmhouse ale.
For those waiting for the ideal time to check out this cheftions Tomme Arthur is digging deep into the cellar for rarities
including Veritas Ales 004 and 009, Tracks 4 and 5 from The
of The Angel’s Share. Dishes on the night’s docket include
roasted sturgeon with duck rilette and sweet potato, coffeerubbed rack of lamb in spiced jus, and a hot Roquefort soufing forward to the privilege of pairing her food with those
gems. Given the sound of that menu, the feeling of privilege
will extend to the lucky attendees in the dining room.
32 | March 2014
From top: Oyster Po’ Boy Taco, Mussels & Smoked Bacon, Brown Butter Pear
Cobbler at Waypoint Public. Photos by Tyler Graham (leadsandgrievances.com)
Apricots & Arbol: A Study in Saison
Yield: 5 gallons
Target OG: 1.052
5 pounds two-row Belgian
pilsner, milled
4 pounds German Vienna, milled
1 pound wheat
1½ ounces UK Kent Goldings
hop pellets
½ ounce US Willamette hop
pellets
Belgian saison yeast
3 cups dried apricots
Oyster Po’ Boy Tacos
Yield: 12 servings
2 cups juniper berries
9 dried chili de arbol pods
2 vanilla pods
2 ounces fresh savory (or
oregano, to substitute)
¼ ounce US Kent Goldings
whole leaf hops
½ ounce US Williamette whole
leaf hops
5.32 ounces Turbinado sugar
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 cups all-purpose flour
2½ cups mayonnaise
2 tsp garlic, minced
2 Tbsp olive oil, plus additional oil for frying
10 tomatillos, husked and chopped
1 cup onion, chopped
48 French fries, medium-cut
24 4-inch small flour tortillas
Place the buttermilk in a shallow dish. Place the oysters in the buttermilk and let marinate
for at least 1 hour.
Start your yeast the night before.
Warm 5 gallons of strike water to 156° F. Add grains and heat to
145° F. Let rest for 10 minutes, then heat to 148° F and let rest
for 90 minutes. While resting, heat sparge water to 170° F. After
resting is complete, heat mash to 170° F. Sparge continuously and
collect wort in boil kettle. Bring the wort to a boil and, as the boil
begins, add 1 ounce of UK Kent Goldings hop pellets. Boil for 60
minutes. After 45 minutes, add the remaining UK Kent Goldings
hop pellets and the US Willamette hop pellets. When the boil is
complete, cool your wort. Transfer the cooled wort to primary fermentation vessel, aerate and pitch yeast. Ferment at 70° to 75° F.
When the lovely cloud of fermentation drops to the bottom (7 to 12
days), rack to secondary and add the remaiing ingredients. Allow to
ferment for 5 days. Add 5.32 ounces of Turbinado sugar to a bottling bucket and cover with a double layer of cheese cloth before
siphoning. Be careful not to get the gunk at the bottom. Sanitize
your bottles, caps and other equipment. Thoroughly mix your beer
and sugar mixture and bottle. Store beer at cellar temperature for a
minimum of 2 weeks before serving.
Mussels & Smoked Bacon
In a large mixing bowl, combine the cabbage, apple, jicama and 4 of the jalapeños. Add
¾ cup of the lime juice, season with salt and let rest, refrigerated, for at least 1 hour. After
removing the mixture from the refrigerator, drain any liquid that has accumulated at the
bottom of the bowl. Combine the mayonnaise and garlic and set aside.
Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the tomatillos,
onion and remaining jalapeño, and cook until nicely charred, about 5 minutes. Remove
from heat and transfer the mixture to the bowl of a blender. Add cilantro and the remaining lime juice, season with salt and blend the mixture until all of the ingredients are
completely incorporated. Transfer to a bowl and let cool to room temperature.
Preheat an electric fryer or a Dutch oven filled a third of the way with canola oil to 350° F.
Place the flour in a separate shallow dish, and season with salt and pepper. Transfer the
oysters from the buttermilk to the flour and coat each completely. Drop the oysters into
the fryer in batches and fry until golden brown and crispy, about 2 minutes.
To serve, warm the tortillas in a pan or an oven set to low heat. Once warm, spread a
small amount of garlic mayonnaise on one side of each tortilla. Place two French fries,
evenly spaced, in the center of each tortilla and balance a fried oyster in between the
fries. Top with slaw and salsa verde and serve 2 tacos to a plate.
Brown Butter Pear Cobbler
Yield: 1 large serving
2 Tbsp olive oil
¼ lbs bacon, chopped
1 tsp garlic, minced
1 tsp shallot, minced
½ cup sherry
1 cup tomatoes, crushed
1 lbs mussels, cleaned
2 cups buttermilk
24 oysters, shucked
1 head, Napa cabbage, shaved
3 Granny Smith apples, stemmed, peeled,
cored and julienned
1 jicama, peeled and julienned
5 jalapeño peppers, stemmed, seeded and
julienned
1 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
½ bunch kale, roughly chopped
2 Tbsp unsalted butter
salt and freshly ground pepper
to taste
crusty bread, sliced
lemon wedge
Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the bacon
and render until crispy, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon,
remove the bacon and transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to
drain. Add the garlic and shallot and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add
the sherry and bring to a boil. Cook until the sherry has reduced by
50%. Add the tomatoes and bring to a boil. Add the mussels and
cover the pan with a lid. Cook until the mussels all open, discarding any that remain completely closed. Stir in the kale, butter and
bacon, and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a large bowl.
Serve with bread and garnish with a lemon wedge.
— Apricots & Arbol, Oyster Po’ Boy Tacos and Mussels
& Smoked Bacon recipes courtesy Amanda Baumgarten, Executive Chef / Partner, Waypoint Public; Brown
Butter Pear Cobbler recipe courtesy Jennifer Reinhart,
Pastry Chef, Waypoint Public
Yield: 8 to 10 servings
3 sticks unsalted butter
2 pounds Bosc or Bartlett pears (about 7 or
8), peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces
2½ cups plus 2 Tbsp all-purpose flour
2 tsp ginger, ground
1 tsp five-spice powder
1½ cups granulated sugar
½ cup light brown sugar
1 Tbsp baking powder
2 tsp salt
2 cups buttermilk
ice cream (your preference)
Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Continue to cook until the butter solids
begin to turn brown and the butter takes on a nutty aroma. Transfer the brown butter into
a heat-proof container and allow to cool. Set aside.
Preheat oven to 350° F.
Heat 3 tablespoons of the brown butter in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the
pears and cook, stirring, until softened, 5 to 8 minutes depending on the ripeness of
the pear. Place 2 tablespoons of flour, the ginger and five-spice powder in a large bowl.
Transfer the pears to the bowl, toss and set aside.
Whisk the remaining flower, sugars, baking powder and salt in a medium-sized bowl. Add
the buttermilk and 1 cup of melted brown butter, and whisk until all of the ingredients
are completely incorporated. Transfer 2/3 of the batter into a buttered 2-quart casserole
dish and spread it evenly. Scatter the cooked pears into the dish and dollop the remaining
batter on top of the pears. Place in the oven and bake until golden brown and cooked in
the center, 30 to 35 minutes, rotating once, halfway through the process. Remove from
oven and use a knife to cut the cobbler into equal-sized portions. Serve warm with a
scoop of ice cream.
WestCoasterSD.com | 33