Ramadan in Turkey

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Ramadan in Turkey
The Holy month of Ramadan is a time for fast, self-reflection,
communal goodwill and festivities.
Famous Turkish hospitality also embraces guests
Ramadan in Turkey
Suleymaniye Mosque
Life’s changing
RHYTHMS
The beating of the
drum in Turkey
indicates that the
month of Ramadan
has dawned upon the
faithful
The custom has been
in existence since
Ottoman times
BY AIDAN MCMAHON
CITY LIGHTS
During the holy month of Ramadan, Turkey is illuminated by
mahya: messages and symbols written out in lightbulbs, strung
between the minarets of the major mosques across the country
BY GARETH REES
T
hese lights are not just
simple
decoration;
mahya is a tradition
stretching back more
than 400 years to the
Ottoman Empire, and it is a spectacle unique to Turkey, adding to the
festival atmosphere during the holy month, especially in Istanbul.
Some scholars believe that
the first mahya were hung between the minarets of Istanbul’s
Blue Mosque during the Ramadan of 1616 or 1617 by the calligrapher and muezzin Hafiz Ahmet Kefevi, who had impressed
the ruling Sultan Ahmed I with his
intricate mahya designs. Whether this story is accurate or not, it is
certain that in 1723 the renowned
Ottoman statesman grand vizier Damat Ibrahim Pasha officially decreed that mahya be hung between the minarets of all imperial
mosques, the only ones at the time
with two or more minarets. Traditionally, mahya were hung in the
major Ottoman cities of Istanbul,
Edirne and Bursa; they can now
be seen all over Turkey, but Istanbul remains the city most commonly associated with the mahya
tradition. The appearance of the
mahya signals the start of Ramadan in Istanbul, and visitors during
the holy month will see the city’s
best-known mosques, including
the Blue Mosque, the New Mosque,
Suleymaniye Mosque, Eyup Sultan
Mosque and Yeni Valide Mosque, lit
up with these striking creations.
Traditionally, mahya were
made up of oil lanterns, but today
light bulbs are used, with messages constructed of scores of bulbs
hung hundreds of feet off the
ground between the minarets of
Turkey’s grandest mosques.
The position of mahya master,
originally a calling passed on from
father to son in the same family, is a prestigious one, and some
practitioners of the art, such as
19th century craftsman Abdullatif
Efendi, are remembered and celebrated for their skill and intricate
creations. Today, after years of decline, efforts are being made to revive the art and train a new generation of craftsmen, and the art of
mahya is still very much alive. 
VIEWING THE MAHYA DURING RAMADAN PRESENTS A PERFECT REASON
TO VISIT ISTANBUL’S MOST FAMOUS MOSQUES
Blue Mosque
The Sultan Ahmed Mosque,
know to most people as the Blue
Mosque, was built in the 17th
century during the reign of Sultan
Ahmed 1, whose tomb can be
found at the site. It’s architect,
Sedefhar Mehmet Aga, ensured
its iconic status by creating both
a grand exterior, which features
six minarets and a vast courtyard,
and a stunning interior famed for
its 260 windows and, of course,
the thousands of blue Iznik tiles
that give the mosque its unofficial
name. It is one of Istanbul’s most
popular tourist attractions.
New Mosque
Located in the Eminonu district
of Istanbul at the southern end of
the Galata Bridge, which crosses
the Golden Horn, construction of
what was then the Valide Sultan
Mosque began in 1595, before
coming to a halt in 1603. Damaged
by the Great Fire of Istanbul in
1660, the mosque was finally
completed in 1663 and renamed
New Valide Sultan Mosque, later
shortened to New Mosque. It is
one of Istanbul’s most famous
landmarks.
Suleymaniye Mosque
Commissioned by Suleyman 1
(Suleyman The Magnificent),
the Suleymaniye Mosque was
completed in 1557. It sits atop
one of Istanbul’s seven hills,
overlooking the Golden Horn,
and is one of the city’s most
impressive sites.
Eyup Sultan Mosque
Traditionally the site for the
coronation of Ottoman sultans, the
site of the Eyup Sultan Mosque, in
the Eyup district close the Golden
Horn, marks burial place of Ebu
Eyup el-Ensari, a great warrior
who died in battle during the siege
of Constantinople in the seventh
century. A mosque was built in the
18th century by Sultan Mehmet
II to mark el-Ensari’s tomb.
Destroyed by an earthquake in
1766, it was rebuilt by Sultan Selim
III in 1800, and is today Istanbul’s
principal Islamic shrine.
E
ach city has its own
unique soundscape. Living in Istanbul, you grow
accustomed to the perpetual honking of car horns and
the raucous call of seagulls, but
occasionally other noises interrupt these unvarying city sounds.
From the call to prayer from
mosques to the air-raid sirens in
November, marking the anniversary of the death of Kemal Ataturk, there is no shortage of distinct aural stimuli to be found.
One summer night on a terrace, I heard a peculiar sound that
I had never heard before. Just before dawn on the first night of
Ramadan, the lonely beating of a
drum began to rise from the street
below. It was the, or ceremonial drummer, who had been assigned to the residential community of Hasanpasa on the Asian
side of the city. He was taking his
job seriously, striking the drum
and bellowing to wake the faithful in time for them to eat ahead of
sunrise. As I looked over the edge
of the terrace, lights in the fourstorey apartment blocks opposite
to my friend’s house came on, and
children peered out of windows to
get a better view of what has become a fading tradition.
The custom has been in existence since Ottoman times, and
is also present in Egypt. In both
countries though, alarm clocks
and technological advances have
rendered it all but obsolete.
WAKING UP THE FAITHFUL
The davulcular are selected
by the local municipality several weeks before the beginning of
the month, and these men meet
ahead of time to decide which areas to work in. They play a selection of songs known as mani,
singing simple allegorical lyrics
often divided into quatrains, and
urge listeners to live right and carry out their religious duties. Later, the performers call on houses, and appreciative listeners pay
generously for the service.
Listening to the beating of the
drum, I was reminded that the
month of Ramadan was just beginning. Not long after, the call to
fajr, the first prayer of the day, reverberated from the thousands
of minarets across the city. As is
elsewhere in the Muslim world,
the importance of fasting and being observant of the various requirements of the holy month
are obvious in Istanbul. Although
many in the larger cities of western Turkey do not abstain from
THE DAVULCULAR
PLAY SONGS KNOWN
AS MANI, SINGING
SIMPLE ALLEGORICAL
LYRICS OFTEN DIVIDED
INTO QUATRAINS
eating, drinking or smoking during the day, the sacrifice being
made by those who do is evident
as you go about your day. Bus and
taxi drivers can be less affable.
Street-side tea houses are still full
of the usual suspects, although
glasses are not filled. The men sit
idly, chatting and awaiting sunset to dutifully return home and
break fast with a light iftar meal.
A TIME TO BOND
Each year I am reminded of
the fact that I am an outsider in
Istanbul. Families are more than
happy to have a foreign guest
around, and will spare no effort in
attending to visitors. This is truer than ever during the month
of Ramadan, as believers strive
to set an example and carry out
good deeds where possible. But
as the lunar cycle advances toward its conclusion, and bayram,
better known internationally as
eid al fitr, people gather at home
and spend precious time with
relatives. At this time of year the
elation of the city’s inhabitants is
palpable, but I find myself feeling apart from colleagues and
friends as they celebrate with
their own families.
With just weeks left before
this now familiar drumming
again awakes my neighbours
and me in the early hours of the
morning, these percussion artists are vying for performance
spots on the circuit. They will
make their rounds and earn
their keep, and I look forward to
hearing them play once again. It
is a fleeting chance to embrace
one of the many traditions that
make Istanbul unique, and
to marvel at one of the many
sounds that constitute the
city’s complex tapestry of impressions. 
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Contributing Journalists
Shalini Seth, Arno Maierbrugger,
Gaby Doman, Neesha Salian,
Sanaya Pavri, Gareth Rees, Ruqya
Khan, Aidan McMahon, Burak Kuru
Business Development Coordinator
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Ramadan in Turkey
The way to stay different
Gerald Lawless, President
and Group CEO of
Jumeirah Group, talks
about the launch of the
hospitality group’s latest
property and other plans
in Turkey
BY SHALINI SETH
W
e have taken over
the
operations
and rebranded the
Golden Savoy Bodrum, now known as Jumeirah Bodrum Palace, on the Aegean Sea. It
is already up and running and now
looking forward to a good season this summer. The property
has 135 suites and villas, of which
57 have their own private swimming pools. We have cabanas on
the beach front. It is a spectacular
property – very ornate, with generously sized rooms and many individual touches.
East really enjoy the nature around
Bodrum and its mild Mediterranean climate. For cultural exploration, the old town is also well worth
a visit. Bodrum also gets a lot of
conference business, stretching
into the autumn, spring and winter. That makes the destination an
attractive proposition, even in the
quieter seasons.
LIKELY GUESTS
The largest source markets
into Bodrum by region are Europe and the UK. A lot of the large
yachts from the Greek Islands visit the Turkish Riviera as people sail
across the Aegean and the Mediterranean seas. Bodrum is a popular summer destination. Travellers from Europe and the Middle
IMPORTANCE OF TURKEY
Turkey is a strong market and
it continues to expand at a healthy
rate. We see Turkey as a natural
fit for Jumeirah Group, particularly for our Middle Eastern guests.
We can now offer a two-city destination whereby one can spend
days in the historic Istanbul at Pera
Palace Jumeirah and then relax at
the Turkish Riviera after a short
45-minute flight from Istanbul.
Last year, the number of GCC
tourists travelling to Turkey increased by 38 per cent, led by Kuwait. Jumeirah is very well placed
to drive that awareness of Turkey
in the GCC market. Istanbul is also
very well connected with the rest
of the world. There are daily flights
with Emirates, flydubai, Etihad and
Turkish Airlines. The reputation
and awareness of our brand and
the loyalty of our guests are probably the biggest drivers of business
to our properties. We remain very
competitive in our market and
regularly launch special promotions to ensure that we achieve the
highest possible levels of awareness at different levels.
A HISTORIC HOTEL
FOR A MODERN GROUP
We are a Dubai-born company and therefore we recognise
our heritage and we embrace and
cherish it wherever we go. Jumeirah as a luxury operator ensures
that its hotels integrate well into
the local community. Each of our
hotels remains true to the brand
promise of “STAY DIFFERENT”,
whether it is a heritage hotel or a
new one. This means that each of
our hotels has its individual character and its own personality.
We are especially proud to
be operating Pera Palace Hotel
Jumeirah. It is one of Istanbul’s
most recognised historic hotels.
It was built in 1892 originally to
accommodate passengers from
Night at the Bosporus
Pretty seaside villages,
lazy cafes and streets
of aging mansions that
seem far away from
the hubbub across the
river; the Asian side
does indeed offer a lot to
the intrepid explorer in
Istanbul
Kuleli
BY GABY DOMAN
O
ne of Istanbul’s most
exciting elements is
the clash between
East and West; perhaps the city where
Asia and Europe collide hardest.
But, despite this, the vast majority of tourists to Istanbul never
venture across to the Asian side.
While it’s true the European side is home to most of the
city’s famous sights, the other
side of the Bosporus has much
to offer too, particularly for those
who are in the city for longer
than a few days or looking for a
more authentic Ramadan experience. There are somewhat differing ways of dealing with Ramadan on each side of the river.
The more touristy European side
tends to be more or less the same
during the holy month, with food
and drink easily available at all
times. Conversely, the Asian side
is more observant of the tradition
and it is well worth spending Iftar
Rumelihisari
and beyond along its shores.
Some of the most attractive spots for sightseeing on the
Asian banks are Beylerbeyi Palace, a former summer residence
of the sultans and Mihrimah Sul-
tan Mosque, which was completed in 1548. But, many of the
Asian side’s attractions are for
the foodie.
Bayramoglu Doner serves up
Turkey’s famous kebab sand-
Yenikoy
wiched between two pieces of
flat bread. The venue is held in
reverence by those who have
been and Turkish food aficionados won’t want to miss out.
Kanlica is another highlight.
Orient Express who used to travel from Europe – all the way between Paris and Istanbul. When
the hotel first opened, it was well
ahead of its time. Agatha Christie
stayed at Pera Palace for a long
time as she wrote quite a big part
of her novel, Murder on the Orient Express. We still have Room
411 which is preserveson not be
there.
EVOLUTION OF THE F&B
EXPERIENCES
The business of food and
beverage is very important in
Dubai. Jumeirah Group already
operates more than 100 outlets. Among these is a portfolio operated by the Jumeirah
Restaurant Group (JRG) Dubai.
JRG Dubai is run within Jumeirah but it remains relatively independent of the hotel management company to offer the
guests an impression that our
own restaurants are as good as
independently owned ones. We
believe that this is how our restaurant business should evolve
for the future.
In Turkey, we would be very
happy to have JRG running a
restaurant on a third-party basis in our hotel. For example,
the noodle house has been very
popular as a franchise. In Dubai,
we operate most noodle houses
ourselves but outside of Dubai
most are franchised, whereby a
third-party investor would own
and operate the restaurant to
our specifications.
There is no reason why we
could not apply the same model
in Turkey, if we had an appropriate Turkish restaurant operator.
This neighbourhood is one of Istanbul’s best-preserved, and is
mostly unchanged by the city’s
rapid development. This charming location is characterised
by its choppy seas, ageing but
charming wooden mansions
and its famous Kanlica yoghurt,
which has been made from a
mix of goat, cow and sheep milk
since the 17th century. This tart,
creamy yoghurt is served with
a sprinkle of icing sugar and
the option of toppings including
strawberry jam. Today, there’s
only one place left making Kanlica yogurt the traditional way Kanlica Doga Yogurdu, where it’s
produced fresh every day in a
shop opposite the pier.
Further south and closer to
Istanbul’s heart is Cengelkoy,
which is another great spot for
enjoying a taste of the more lowkey day-to-day life of Istanbul’s residents. Its Ottoman Empire mansions make a beautiful
backdrop to the area’s seafood
restaurants. Legend has it that
the area was even named after
the Persian word for crab, cenkar. Cengelkoy is also famous for
its small cucumbers, although
they are seldom grown here anymore. Instead, the modernday area offers narrow streets
to wander down, a local bazaar
to shop in and delicious pastries from the traditional bakery,
Cengelkoy Borekcisi. But a mustvisit after Iftar is Cinaralti, one of
the most famous tea gardens in
Istanbul. In the garden is a sycamore tree offering both shade
and a slice of history – it’s said
to be 800 years old, which would
pre-date the Ottoman Empire.
The 15-metre-tall tree is said to
have killed a patron with a falling branch (though these days
THE BODRUM EXPERIENCE
It was my first time in Bodrum and we had an opportunity
to walk into the heart of the old
town which fascinating. There
are restaurants all along the seafront and the famous castle. It
feels like such a lovely place to
stroll in the evening. Jumeirah
Bodrum Palace is a gem and I am
sure our guests will appreciate
Gerald Lawless, President and
Group CEO of Jumeirah Group
its unique ambiance. All of our
rooms, suites and villas are generously sized and the location is
spectacular offering the finest
sea views and privacy. The resort
is nicely tiered down to the sea at
different levels. Guests can enjoy
extensive leisure facilities on the
beach where we have cabanas
and also a number of Maldivianthemed water villas. 
it’s secured by iron supports) and
has been designated as one of Istanbul’s most monumental trees.
Moda is another good spot
for tea drinking. There’s a pretty tiled tea shop on the old pier,
built in 1916, which overlooks
the Sea of Marma or, alternatively, Kemal’in Yeri or the restaurant at Old Moda Seaport are other spots that offer sea views and
traditional tea. This bohemian
little corner of the city is stuffed
with record shops, artisans, theatres and bookshops, which
make for a lovely, lazy day.
A short stroll along Moda Avenue brings you to Kadikoy,
which is famous for its antique shops and a few quaint cafes with terraces – as well as its
pretty trams. On Tuesdays and
Fridays the area buzzes with a
chaotic market, which, due to its
abundance of food and snacks
might be best avoided during
Ramadan – it’s just too appealing
for a foodie and is, undoubtedly a
highlight of the Asian side – but,
after the sun sets, be sure to take
advantage of the area’s dried
fruit and pastry shops, which are
stuffed full of krep, halva, baklava and almond cookies – the
perfect sugary pick-me-up after
a long day fasting.
Seafood lovers should make a
point of visiting Yenikoy, a moneyed neighbourhood on the European side of the Bosporus. This
quarter is known for its incredible Ottoman era waterfront properties and for its numerous seafood restaurants – Yalier is one of
the most consistently good and
best value. Once you’re sated, the
area is a beautiful one to wander around and Yenikoy Avenue
is one of the very prettiest in the
city, lined with platanus trees. 
Ramadan in Turkey
A community celebrates
Ramadan brings people
together in prayer and
celebration
BY NEESHA SALIAN
F
rom drummers who
go through the streets
waking people up at
the crack of dawn for
suhour (morning meal)
to sharing iftar with family and
friends under a tent in Sultanahmet Square, Ramadan in Turkey
is an experience you are unlikely to forget. Most of the country’s
Ramadan customs have their
foundations in the traditions of
the former Ottoman Empire. For
Turks, the holy month is not just
a period of fasting from sunrise
to sunset; it’s also a time for selfreflection, communal goodwill
and festivities. People visit the
mosque to offer prayers and express gratitude. Charity is also a
big part of Ramadan.
While the days are usually
spent in contemplation and prayer,
sunset brings in its wake a flurry
of activities that commence with
the firing of a cannon noting the
end of the fast and the iftar sofrasi,
a traditional meal. The latter sees
friends and family members congregate at home or in public places.
For Turks, the holy
month is also a time
for self-reflection,
communal goodwill and
festivities
In fact, the best way to experience the spirit of this communal
celebration is a visit to Sultanahmet Square in Istanbul. Ramadan
greetings decorated with lights
hang between the minarets of
the Sultan Ahmed Mosque bedazzling the night sky; big and
small tents line the square, filled
with people talking animatedly
as they eat pieces of pide, Turkish
flatbread, with butter, along with
other traditional dishes. Restaurants serve traditional iftar and
people who don’t get seats make
their way on to the grass, having an impromptu picnic amid the
historic buildings. Various institutions and people also sponsor iftar across the city for the less fortunate, students and visitors.
Street carnivals are a common
sight during the month, as kiosks
selling eatables, toys and curios spring up everywhere. These,
along with cultural activities such
as the Karagoz and Hacivat shadow theatre, which have roots in
the Ottoman era, attract both
tourists and locals. The Feshane
International Fair Congress and
Culture Center also holds cultural
performances, including Turkish
folk music and dances, Sufi music as well as a host of other performing arts and activities.
Another resort town that has
famous bazaars during Ramadan is Fethiye. If you head to Konya, make sure you see the whirling dervishes. The dervishes or
semazens perform their spiritual dance or sema throughout the
year but it takes on a more spiritual significance during the holy
month. Another must-visit destination is the tomb of the legendary Oruc Baba in Topkapi. According to hearsay, people who end
their fast on the first day of Ramadan with vinegar in this mausoleum will have all their wishes granted. Needless to say, the
mausoleum gets a lot of visitors.
Ramadan culminates in a
three-day holiday called Seker
Bayrami or Sweet Feast. Mosques
and buildings are lit during the
time and festivities are in full
force. People invite family and
THE BEST WAY TO
EXPERIENCE THE SPIRIT
OF THIS COMMUNAL
CELEBRATION IS A
VISIT TO SULTANAHMET
SQUARE IN ISTANBUL
friends over and treat their guests
to traditional food and desserts
such as baklava. It is also customary to visit family members, especially older ones, and kiss their
hand as a sign of respect. Children
receive gifts from grandparents
and other relatives.
The wonderful thing about
spending Ramadan in the country is that the Turks’ inherent
hospitality soars just as their munificence does during the holy
month and Seker Bayrami. 
A FEAST FOR THE SENSES
Treat yourself to a traditional Turkish iftar, which has everything from tasty
appetisers and hearty soups to delicious desserts and refreshing beverages
BY NEESHA SALIAN
The main course is
dominated by traditional
Turkish favourites with a
liberal use of olive oil
F
asting and feasts are
an integral part of the
holy month of Ramadan across the Islamic world. In fact, in Turkey,
families and friends get together and spend time bonding over warm meals and conversations after a long day of
abstinence from food and water. The communal element
of this period is best seen as
loved ones break bread and
partake in traditional foods, as
their ancestors have been doing for generations. It’s also the
perfect time to sample the legendary Turkish hospitality.
Iftar sofrasi, the first meal
of the day that marks the end
of fasting from sunrise to sunset, commences after the call
to prayer is heard. It starts with
people drinking a few sips of
water and eating a couple of
dates to soothe the parched
palate. This is followed by the
traditional iftariyelik, which is
a selection of appetisers such
as dates, figs, honey, sweet
butter, pastirami (cured beef)
and a selection of fresh and
aged cheese .
The next course is soup
and the sumptuous special Ramazan pidesi, which is
a large round loaf of flat pide
bread, topped with crunchy
nigella seeds. People faithfully line up outside their local bakeries to get their piping
4 > 5 GLOBAL CONNECTION JUNE 2015
hot orders of this wonderful
bread. This goes well with butter, cheese and a serving of
traditional tomato or red lentil soup. Some of the other
popular soups include ezogelin soup, yayla corbasi or suzme mercimek corbasi. Different varieties of borek (a baked
dish made with filo pastry) are
part of the spread. The feta
and spinach version is utterly scrumptious as are the ones
with meat and cheese.
The main course is dominated by traditional Turkish favourites using meat and
vegetables with a liberal use
of olive oil. Dishes such as kuzu tandir, lamb cooked tandoori-style; hunkarbegendi,
eggplant puree topped with
lamb; imambayildi or stuffed
eggplant are popular during this time. Other favourites include Izmir Kofte, which
is a baked meatball and potato stew; mussaka, an eggplant
and ground beef casserole
and manti, which are dumplings.
Desserts are the stars of
the iftar spread. The piece
de resistance is the silky, indulgent gullac, a milk-based
dessert. It is made using rice
sheets, which are layered with
walnuts and then soaked in
warm milk syrup doused with
rosewater. This dessert is refreshing, light and utterly delicious. The menu also includes
Turkish specialties, such as
baklava, a nut-based pastry;
sekerpare, semolina cookies soaked in syrup and safranli zerde, a classic saffron
pudding. Refreshing beverages are a standard offering
in the customary Turkish iftar spread and a perfect way to
round-off the meal. Ayran (a
salty yogurt drink) and sherbet (sweet, fruit drink) are favourites as are beet juice, or
salgam suyu and lemonade. 
Ramadan in Turkey
BLUE AND
MAGNIFICENT
Any visit to Istanbul
would be incomplete
without a visit to
the famed imperial
mosque
The Sultan Ahmet Mosque dominates Istanbul’s
majestic skyline with its elegant outline of massive
domes and soaring minarets
BY SANAYA PAVRI
A
teenage sultan in
command of an empire spanning three
continents,
Asia,
Europe and Africa, wanted to pay homage to the
legacy bequeathed to him, as
well as leave an indelible mark
on the fabric of the city that his
predecessors conquered and
what better way to do so than
commission one of the finest
mosques in the heart of the imperial city of Istanbul.
The historically rich city is dotted with numerous mosques that
were mostly constructed during the Ottoman era. Travel anywhere along the Bosporus and it’s
hard to miss the gracefully protruding domes and slender minarets reaching to the sky. These
mosques don’t just serve as places of worship, but each has a story to tell in terms of historical significance and architecture dating
back centuries. Among these the
most famous has to be the famed
Sultan Ahmet Mosque, without
which the city would be incomplete. The Sultan Ahmet Mosque
is one of the distinctly defining
features of Istanbul’s skyline and
was commissioned by Sultan Ahmet I, who was driven by the desire to leave behind a mosque
named after him, one that would
rival the famed Ayasofya. He
chose to build it opposite the Hagia Sophia and next to the Hippodrome on the exact same spot
where the Great Palace of the
Byzantine emperors was standing using the existing foundations and vaults. The mosque was
completed in 1617, just a year
prior to the death of the 27-year
old young sultan, who is buried
outside the mosque with his wife
and three sons.
The mosque dominates Istanbul’s majestic skyline with its elegant outline of a series of ascending domes and six soaring
minarets. Although considered a
classical Ottoman structure, architect Mehmet Aga incorporated new architectural and decorative elements into the mosque’s
facade, combining traditional Islamic architecture with Byzantine
elements, taken from the adjacent
Hagia Sophia.
At that time Aga’s plan was believed to be impossible to build,
yet the visionary architect nev-
er gave up. Instead he succeeded
in creating a structure that is impressive in its bearing, along with
being fluidly graceful, thanks to its
voluptuous cascading domes that
were designed to primarily addresses the problem of creating a
large, covered interior space.
The the Blue Mosque as it is
popularly called refers to the interior, where the high ceiling is
lined with over the 20,000 blue
tiles. This careful choreography
of thousands of Iznik tiles dazzles
visitors with their blue, green, and
turquoise hues.
The tiles bear traditional motifs of cypress trees, tulips, roses and fruits conjuring visions
of a bountiful paradise, the sultan requested these specifically
for the building. The extravagant
use of tile decoration in the interiors was a first in imperial Ottoman mosque architecture. But the
beautiful blue hue that makes the
mosque so distinct wouldn’t be
possible without adequate light to
accentuate the colours of the tiles.
The intensity is brought about by
the play of natural light from more
than 200 windows that are set in
the drums of the central dome,
each of the half-domes, and the
side walls. These windows were
originally covered with beautiful
Venetian stained glass.
The construction of this gigantic and magnificent structure
took a little under seven years to
complete and so eager was the
sultan to have it finished that he
would come and lend a helping
hand or so the story goes. The
original complex included a soup
kitchen, a madrasa, a primary
school, a hospital, and a market. A
mausoleum is situated at the corner of the grounds, near the Hippodrome and Sultanahmet Park
and houses the remains of Sultan Ahmet I, his wife and three of
his sons. It also contains some fine
examples of calligraphy on cobalt-blue Iznik tile.
No matter how often you stand
and stare, the Blue Mosque remains breathtaking as always.
There are plenty of elegant curves
thanks to an ascending system of
domes and semi-domes and the
giant courtyard, about as large as
the mosque itself, is the biggest of
all Ottoman mosques. Worshippers to the mosque enter through
the main entrance, which is off the
Hippodrome, while tourists have
to enter from a portal on the south
side. A symbolic chain marks the
main entrance that required even
the sultan to bow his head when
he arrived on horseback. 
LIVING IN LUXURY
Emaar Turkey, the wholly-owned subsidiary of global
property developer Emaar Properties, is developing
Emaar Square, its second project in Istanbul
joys the exclusive convenience
of round-the-clock access to
The Address Hotel’s 5 star service 7 days a week.
E
maar Square Istanbul,
which is the second project of Emaar Turkey is a
mixed use development
in Camlica, Istanbul spanning
66.000 sqms. Camlica is a beautiful and beloved location for many
residents and tourists alike here in
Istanbul. Emaar Square will comprise over 1000 luxury homes, a
183 room 5 star the Address Hotel ,
a world class shopping mall, entertainment centre and 48.000 sqms
of office space.
THE ADDRESS RESIDENCE
ISTANBUL OFFERS 5 STARS
CITY LIFE
The Address Hotels + Resorts,
the five-star premium hotel and
residences brand by Emaar, brings
this outstanding lifestyle and investment opportunity to Istanbul.
Introducing Istanbul to all the
distinctive hallmarks of a world-
class luxury lifestyle, The Address Istanbul is the centerpiece
of Emaar Square Project located in one of the prestigious districts on the Asian side of the city.
Overlooking the Marmara Sea, the
Princess Islands and the Bosphorus, the 46 storey Address Residence Istanbul is an architectural marvel designed by two of the
world’s most prestigious architectural offices, Foster + Partners and
Hirsch Bedner Associates (HBA).
The Address Hotel, located on
the first 11 floors of The Address
Istanbul, offers guests a first-class
accommodation and hospitality
experience.
EXCLUSIVE, DISTINCTIVE
AND ELEGANT
The 320 luxury residence
apartments located on the floors
above The Address Hotel, with
their exceptional location, timelessly tasteful lines and 5 star
service provided by The Address
Hotel, have been designed to provide their owners a singularly
sophisticated urban lifestyle.
The Address Istanbul features
197 fully furnished units from
1 to 3 bedrooms and 123 luxury sky view residences ranging from 1 to 5 bedroom units, as
well as luxury penthouses. Each
of these elegant residences, in
addition to offering its owners
unparalleled lifestyles, also en-
A PREMIUM LIFE, AN
INVALUABLE INVESTMENT
The Address property owners
have the opportunity to take advantage of an exciting and valuable investment opportunity. By
enrolling your furnished apartment in the hotel’s pool system,
you will benefit from a shared
revenue stream that makes your
apartment an even more valuable investment.
TIMELESS LUXURY
IN A UNIQUE CITY
Being developed as part of
Emaar Square, Turkey’s most
unique mixed use project, and
drawing on Emaar Square’s experience as well as its reputation for exclusivity, at The Address Residence Istanbul, the full
range of 5-star services are just
a phone call away. And awaiting
you right in your own home are
concierge services and gourmet
cuisine by world-famous chefs.
ISTANBUL’S NEWEST MEETING
PLACE IS JUST A FEW STEPS
FROM YOUR DOOR
The Address Istanbul is just
a few steps away from Emaar
Square Shopping Mall that brings
the world’s most prestigious luxury brands, like Galeries Lafayette, to Istanbul featuring over 400
shops, including nearly 100 cafés
and restaurants. Emaar Square will
also bring a brand new social life to
Istanbul and will have a number of
leisure attractions, including The
Discovery Center and an underwater zoo, the largest multiplex cinema complex on Istanbul’s Asian
side, an ice rink and several other
entertainment options.
You are invited to discover The
Address Istanbul, an exclusive
world with standards that redefine
the luxury lifestyle, where you can
find all you desire in a single place.
Emaar Turkey team will be
pleased to host you at Emaar
Square and arrange a VIP transfer service from your hotel to
Emaar Square sales office. For further information and VIP transfer please call: +90 216 547 17 17 /
www.emaarsquare.com.tr 
Ramadan in Turkey
Through the eyes
of a master
Istanbul has hosted many greats, but none has left as much of a
mark as Mimar Sinan, architect of timeless masterpieces
The chief Ottoman
architect was
responsible for
executing 300 major
projects
Karagoz plays are
not based on
pre-determined
scripts
er to carpets and Turkish sweets.
If you stick around, don’t forget to
bargain your way through buying
stanbul is the largest city in various knick-knack and souveTurkey in terms of the size nirs. You can exit through the Nuof population and economy, ruosmaniye Gate, which leads to
as well as one of its most Sultanahmet.
For first-time visitors, Sultanpopular tourist destinations.
It is also a very crowded city, but ahmet’s Hagia Sofia is a mustthat shouldn’t scare you if you visit. But for those who’ve been
have set out to discover it. Be- there, done that it is well worth
cause there are two ways of dis- their time to stop by the Hurcovering Istanbul - either you rem Sultan Bath, another Mimar
do what every organised tourist Sinan creation. This 246-foot
does i.e, plan your trip down to long public bathhouse was conthe last detail and see it the way structed in 1556 and is designed
millions have, or throw caution in the style of classical Ottoman
to the wind and just follow the baths with two symmetrical
crowds, slip in and out of places separate sections for men and
and experience the city the way women. The customary steam
bath, peeling and soap massage
the locals see it.
The smarter tourists do a bit of will leave you feeling greatly reboth, and they also do another in- freshed. Remember to make restelligent thing – they hire a good ervations though.
Once you are done take a leiguide to show them around. We
were persuaded by ours to follow surely stroll down to Eminonu
historic architect Mimar Sinan’s in what is essentially still old Iscreative trail to discover the city. tanbul. You can cross the UnThe chief Ottoman architect and kapani Bridgeto reach Karakoy,
civil engineer for sultans Sulei- where you will discover great
man the Magnificent, Selim II and options for shopping and dinMurad III was responsible for ex- ing. Some places include Namecuting 300 major construction li Gurme, which serves breakfast at all hours, the Gulluoglu, for
projects across Turkey.
desserts, or the Karakoy Restaurant, where you can sample the
FIRST STOP: SULEYMANIYE
Our first stop is the Suley- best of Turkish cuisine (karakoylokantasi.com). You can almaniye Mosque, one of Sinan’s
so visit the Istanbul Mumost glorious strucseum of Modern Art,
tures. It was built over
which houses an
seven years during
enviable collecthe golden age
tion of contemof the Ottoman
porary art, and
Empire and has
hosts various
become an essmaller exhibisential
part
tions as well on
of the Istanthe lower floor.
bul peninsuThere is also a
la. The breathcinema and arts
taking blend of
library (istanbulIslamic and ByzMimar Sinan
modern.org).
antine architectural elements will make
SUNSET IN USKUDAR
you pause in your tracks
Istanbul is also known for its
and the experience will stay long
after you leave. In between sight- glorious sunsets and one of the
seeing, you could sip some Turk- best places to experience it is
ish coffee at Lalezar right next to Uskudar. You can get there on
a ferry from Kabatas a journey
the mosque.
Next, head to the Grand Ba- that takes about 7 to 8 minutes.
zaar, one of the world’s oldest, The neighbourhood carries early
teeming with almost 4,000 shops traces of the Ottoman era. It has
that store all manner of goods old bazaars, mosques, and food
ranging from jewellery and leath- that will titillate your taste buds.
THE CURTAIN OF
IMAGINATION
BY BURAK KURU
I
6 > 7 GLOBAL CONNECTION JUNE 2015
The traditional shadow theatre, Karagoz,
brings all the colours and cultural
treasures of the Ottoman era to you
S
Eminonu
Savour the locally produced ice
cream at the Kanaat Lokantasi restaurant. And while you are
there dig into their versions of
semolina halwa, and candied
quince. Having indulged your
gastronomic fantasies it is a
good idea to stroll along the the
Uskudar coast. About 200 metres away you will come across
Kiz Kulesi, or the Maiden’s Tower as it is more popularly known.
While in Uskudar make it a
point to visit the Semsi Ahmet
Pasa Mosque, another of Mimar
Sinan’s architectural marvels.
Commissioned by the Grand Vizier in Constantinople, it is one
of the smallest to be built. However, its miniature dimensions
combined with a picturesque
waterfront makes it one of the
most attractive in the city. The
Dolmabahce Palace and Buyuk
Mecidiye Mosque in Ortakoy are
also places you can visit. 
hadow theatre or
Karagoz as it is
known in Turkey offers more or less a
microcosm of the country’s
Ottoman roots by bringing to life the multicultural,
multi-religious and multilingual social structure of the
empire on stage. The shadow play employs tasvirs (figures) made from camel or ox
hides in the shape of people
or things attached to rods
in front of a light source to
cast a shadow on to a cotton screen. It also uses
songs, music, poetry, myths,
tongue-twisters and riddles
to make the two-dimensional representations more
lively and exciting. The creator of this form is believed
to be Sheikh Kusteri, who
lived in the Ottoman capital
of Bursa, and he is paid homage in every show.
ALL COLOURS OF THE
EMPIRE ON STAGE
The puppeteer of Karagoz
is known as hayali, meaning imaginary. Almost every type of person from the
various socioeconomic layers of Ottoman society as
well as representatives of
nationalities (Arab, Greek,
Jew, Persian, Albanian etc.)
living under imperial umbrella are included in the
play. These characters stand
out through their dressing
styles, accents, behaviours,
songs and dances of the
community they represent
and are thus understood by
the audience right away.
Karagoz plays are not
based on pre-determined
scripts thus improvisation
is an essential aspect of the
show. But there are some
certain themes and subjects
that are repeated. Stories
are adapted according to the
particular time period. However, a few original Karagoz
plays have stood unchanged
over time.
KARAGOZ DURING
RAMADAN
A classical Karagoz show
consists of four parts - prologue, quarrel, main plot and
epilogue. Music - which is
often performed live – is also important. City theatres
in former Ottoman capitals
- Istanbul, Bursa and Edirne
- stage Karagoz shows on a
regular basis. You can buy
tickets online. The best time
for a Karagoz show is Ramadan. During the holy month
in central districts of Istanbul like Sultanahmet and Feshane, they are staged until
quite late.
ABOUT KARAGOZ
A play begins with the
projection of an introductory figure to set the scene and
suggest the themes of the
drama, before it vanishes to
the shrill sound of a whistle,
giving way to a main performance that sometimes incorporates singing, tambourine music, poetry, mythical
tales, tongue-twisters and
riddles.
Cultural conflicts between Karagoz, an illiterate
nomad and Hacivat, an educated messenger form the
base of the plot. The usually comic stories feature the
main characters, Karagoz
and Hacivat, and many others, including a cabaret
chanteuse called Kantocu
and an illusionist-acrobat
named Hokkabaz.
Karagoz is filled with puns
and imitations of regional
accents and the puppets are
manipulated by one lead artist, the hayali, who may have
one or more apprentice-assistants learning the craft by
helping to create the tasvirs
and accompanying the action with music.
Once played widely at
coffee houses, gardens and
public squares, especially during the holy month of
Ramadan, as well as during
circumcision feasts, Karagoz
is found today mostly in performance halls, schools and
malls in larger cities where
it still draws audiences. The
traditional theatre strengthens a sense of cultural identity while bringing people
closer together through entertainment. 
Ramadan in Turkey
SHOP UNTIL YOU DROP
The Istanbul Shopping Fest is set to bewitch with its line-up of concerts,
street parties, fashion shows and more
BY GARETH REES
I
stanbul is one of the most
alluring cities in the world.
Established more than
two-and-a-half millennia ago, it has been the principal city of four empires. Straddling East and West, Europe
and Asia, on either side of
the Bosporus, Istanbul is the
largest city in both Europe
and the Middle East, and the
fifth-largest in the world.
One of the most popular tourist destinations
in the world, Istanbul has
many attractions includ-
ing renowned sites such as Hagia
Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi
Palace and Galata Tower. But perhaps its most famous is the Grand
Bazaar. A major trading hub for
centuries, occupying an important position on the famous Silk
Road, Istanbul’s commercial ties
stretch back to antiquity. And the
Grand Bazaar is only one of the
many places to shop. To find more
about the city’s appeal to shoppers who have come from around
the globe for hundreds of years to
barter with the stallholders of its
many labyrinthine bazaars, stroll
down Beyoglu’s great Istiklal Avenue or scour the city’s many malls
for bargains.
The fifth instalment of the Istanbul Shopping Fest will be held
from June 6 and 28. Visitors to the
23-day festival can enjoy not only numerous discounts in Istanbul’s many shops, but also concerts, fashion shows, street parties
and numerous other events taking
place across the historic city.
Whether you’re looking to stock
up on spices with a trip to Eminonu’s Spice Bazaar, replenish
your designer wardrobe with a few
choice purchases from one of Nisantasi’s luxury boutiques, unearth
a bargain at one of the city’s 120
malls or simple soak up the history
in the Grand Bazaar, Istanbul will be
able to cater to your needs. 
MUST-VISIT MALLS
MUST-VISIT BAZAARS
Zorlu Center
The recently opened Zorlu Shopping Mall at the Zorlu
Center, in Sisli, boasts more than 180 shops, including
the city’s only Apple store, as well as numerous cafés
and restaurants and a performing arts centre.
Grand Bazaar
Attracting about half a million visitors a day, the Grand
Bazaar is not just about shopping. The huge covered
market has been operating since the 15th century, and
getting lost on one of the many busy streets is a rite of
passage for any first-time visitor to Istanbul.
Akmerkez
Named Europe’s Best Shopping Mall back in 1995,
Akmerkez, in Etiler, is a four-storey mall housing more
than 200 shops. International brands on sale include
Gap, Nike and Lacoste.
Spice Bazaar
The second-most famous bazaar is just as eminent
as the nearby Grand Bazaar. People have been buying
spices, sweets, dried fruit and nuts here since 1660.
Ramadan Holiday is Best Experienced
in Turkey, Most Delightful Shopping is
done at LC Waikiki Throughout Turkey
LC Waikiki, Turkey’s leader in fashion retail, is offering a wide range of
products for those who don’t want to compromise on comfort and elegance
during the Ramadan holidays. The whole family will appreciate distinguished
LC Waikiki choices for adults, young people and children
W
ith its summer colours and dynamic designs, LC Waikiki’s holiday special collection for the young
is quite striking. The Turkish label’s
accessories are also notable with
a myriad of clothing alternatives
making a splash. Comfortable summer bags, flat shoes and sandals
– indispensable items of the summer – and colourful belts to complete each outfit await fashion lovers at LC Waikiki stores. Remember
to visit LC Waikiki stores and Lcwaikiki.com to enjoy shopping to your
heart’s content this Ramadan holiday, as well all special occasions.
LC Waikiki will be welcoming local and foreign customers at almost 400 stores throughout Turkey
during the month of Ramadan with
spectacular designs and lavish collections. LC Waikiki welcomes everyone, who wants to make children
happy and indulge themselves, to
its wide network of retail stores all
around Turkey and abroad. An “Everyone deserves to dress well” mission and “Accessible fashion” motto
drive LC Waikiki to dress Turkey and
the world since 1985 when it was
established and since 1997 when
it began to operate under LC Waikiki retail in Turkey. LC Waikiki has
maintained a growth trend at home
and abroad for 18 years. LC Waikiki,
serves customers at more than 500
stores in 25 countries, particularly in
the Gulf countries such as the UAE,
Saudi Arabia, Iran and Iraq.
Maral
A GLOBAL
EXPERIENCE
IN THE CENTRE
OF THE WORLD
84% of all current BİLGİ
students receive different types
of scholarships
First e-MBA programme (online
MBA) was established at BİLGİ
More than 1.000 events each
year on three campuses
85% of all BİLGİ students are
hired within the first year after
graduation. Some BİLGİ students
choose academic careers and go
for masters or doctoral degrees
Istanbul Bilgi University LEARNING FOR LIFE
With three huge
campuses and almost
20,000 students on its
rolls, the Istanbul BİLGİ
University is the top
choice for international
students in Turkey
L
ocated at one of the important intersections
of different cultures,
and in a region which
is hugely impacted by
global political changes, Turkey
pursues a dynamic and visionary foreign policy with a view to
steering these developments in
a positive direction. As one of the
first foundation universities and
the only member of the Laureate
International Universities in Tur8 > 9 GLOBAL CONNECTION JUNE 2015
key the Istanbul BİLGİ University (BİLGİ) holds a special place
as far as higher education in the
country is concerned. Founded
in 1996, Istanbul BİLGİ University follows the motto ‘Learning
not for school but for life’ (Non
scholae sed vitae discimus). With
almost 1,000 academics, BİLGİ
has close to 20,000 students and
more than 22,000 alumni. About
1,500 of those enrolled are international students. Of this about
700 international students receive their degrees from BİLGİ,
while the rest are exchange students.
As an English medium institution, BİLGİ offers more than 150
programmes in its faculties of
architecture, arts and sciences,
communication, law, economics
and administrative sciences and
engineering, in addition to its vocational and professional schools
and institutes.
dents. Therefore BİLGİ students
have real international experience
whether they stay on campus or
study abroad.
THE ONLY MEMBER OF
LAUREATE INTERNATIONAL
UNIVERSITIES IN TURKEY
Since 2006, BİLGİ is the only member of the Laureate International Universities (LIU) in Turkey. LIU is a leading international
network of more than 80 innovative higher education institutions,
teaching more than 950,000 students in 29 countries and online.
As a member of the LIU, BİLGİ students become a part of a global
education network of 80 institutions. Through international partnerships and exchange agreements, BİLGİ has also become a
destination for international stu-
A HIGHER EDUCATION
EXPERIENCE OF FREEDOM
AND DIVERSITY
BİLGİ seeks to educate freethinking, creative, intellectually curious and enterprising individuals who will contribute to a
world in which knowledge is accessible to all and, in which access
to it is seen as a fundamental human right. BİLGİ holds a primary
responsibility for providing, maintaining and further developing an
academic environment in which
both students and faculty members are able to engage in learning
and producing knowledge at the
highest level.
CAMPUSES IN CITY CENTRES
BİLGİ is a city university with
Global companies prefer BİLGİ
business alumni to all other
foundation universities
The biggest architecture
studios of Turkey are at BİLGİ
Faculty of Architecture
BİLGİ Communication Studies
alumni have won numerous
awards all around the world
three innovative campuses on
the European side of Istanbul. Located in central neighbourhoods,
the three BİLGİ campuses - Santralistanbul, Kustepe and Dolapdere offer easy access to social and
cultural activities in Istanbul. Santralistanbul Campus is an arts and
cultural complex located along the
Golden Horn hosting more than
1,000 conferences, festivals and
other scientific and social events
each year and it includes Energy
Museum, Main Gallery as well as
educational buildings. Dolapdere
Campus, an award-winning campus with its architectural design, is
only ten minutes away from Taksim, the heart of the art scene, social activities and city life. Kustepe
Campus is located in Sisli, the centre of Istanbul’s business life. 
For You
!
o
o
t
y
r
t
n
u
o
C
r
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o
in y
13 STORES IN KSA
2 NEW OPENING IN 2015
LC Waikiki is the leader fashion and retail company in Turkey
with GLOBALLY MORE THAN 500 STORES
ABU DHABI • AL WAHDA MALL / MUSCAT • AVENUE MALL / JEDDAH • HAIFA MALL / DAMMAM • MALL OF DHAHRAN / JEDDAH • MALL OF ARABIA
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COMING SOON / KUWAIT • QATAR
Visit our website to find our stores location www.lcwaikiki.com
Ramadan in Turkey
Homes with a view
Up to 85 per cent
of Turkey’s gullac
consumption
happens during the
holy month
Located 1.5 kilometres from the seaside, the skyscrapers will
have an eye-catching view of the islands
M
Refika Birgul
THE SWEET WAYS
OF THE “GULLAC”
Refika Birgul tells us why the dessert is a sweet
reminder of Turkey’s grand culinary tradition
W
hile gullac – a
fluffy, milky dessert made using
milk, pomegranate and a special kind of pastry -- usually only available at a
handful of filo dough stores and
spice houses all year round during Ramadan. In fact, up to 85 per
cent of Turkey’s gullac consumption happens during the holy month. However, as far as my
household is concerned, I make
sure it has pride of place on the
dinner table.
Most people think it is complicated to prepare gullac, but
this idea can’t be further from
10 > 11 GLOBAL CONNECTION JUNE 2015
the truth. Not only have I been
able to make it with the least
amount of effort, but I’ve also
surprised guests with my variations of the classic milky version. And here’s a secret: gullac
can also be baked and fried!
HOW TO MAKE GULLAC
Gullac is prepared by combining three ingredients: cornstarch, wheat flour and filtered
water. This mixture is heated to 100-150 degrees Celsius
in a pan. It almost immediately
cooks as a thin layer, which can
be separated from the pan easily. It is then dried and packaged.
A good gullac should not be too
thin or thick and should have a
silky, translucent shine.
TIPS AND TRICKS
There are several tips to follow
when preparing gullac. For instance, the shiny side of gullac
flakes should face up when putting it in the pan. The temperature of the syrup you moisten
the gullac with is very important. It will melt in too much heat,
and stay dry in too little. Between 38 and 41 degrees Celsius (100 and 105 degrees F) — the
right temperature to set yoghurt
as well — is ideal for gullac. Additionally, you must moisten each
leaf of gullac separately. Afterwards, you must cover it completely with syrup, enough for
the leaves to swim. As the gullac
sits, it will absorb the syrup and
rise. Tastes will intermingle. 
anzara Adalar (The
View – Islands), which
will be realized by İş
Gayrimenkul Yatırım Ortaklığı
(İş Real Estate Investment Partnership) in Istanbul’s new favorite district Kartal, carries the
signature of world renown architectural company, Perkins
Eastman, and was designed
as a mixed project that combines three residential and two
office blocks for a total of five
blocks with commercial areas,
which will bring this unique living center to perfection. The project, which oversees the grandiose view of The Princes’ Islands
at 1.5 km from the sea, is situated at a centralised location at
the heart of the highway, railway,
airline and maritime-line transportation networks. Investment
value of the project, which incorporates a wide range of options
from studio apartments to 5+1
rooms, is approximately 300 million USD. Manzara Adalar offers
a calm and pleasant life with indoor/outdoor swimming pools,
outdoor kiddie pool, fitness center, SPA area, hobby rooms, children’s club and a multipurpose
sports complex. It turns life into
a delight with its reflecting pools
and walking track. 35% of the
apartments of Manzara Adalar
were sold, and the project is intended to be delivered in the first
quarter of 2018. 
Ramadan in Turkey
AN IFTAR WORTHY OF SULTANS
Ramadan pide is
a type of flat
yeast bread
Chef Kadir Yılmaz of Matbah Restaurant in Sultanahmet, Istanbul invites guests
to discover the cuisine of the Ottoman palace and enjoy more than just a meal
BY NILGUN YILMAZ
W
e are in the garden of Matbah
Restaurant, right
next to the Hagia
Sophia. The view from the centre of the garden is of the madrasa located right by the restaurant.
The decor, ambiance and music
are enchanting. But what’s more
special is that the restaurant’s
recipes are exclusively from the
kitchen of the Ottoman palace.
The venue gets its name from
Matbah-i Amire (Palace Kitchen)
and strives to preserve that legacy and cuisine.
We spot a note on the menu:
“We will not accept payment for
meals you do not enjoy.” So here’s
a risk-free experience for iftar in
Ramadan. Chef Kadir Yılmaz, a
student of the Ottoman cuisine
for 20 years, offers us a glass of
sherbet as we start talking.
What makes the Topkapi Palace’s kitchen special for you?
The palace cuisine is a rich one,
nurtured by the legacy of all those
who lived in Ottoman territories. I
was lucky that my chef Rasit Ozdemir was immensely keen on
sustaining it and his enthusiasm
sparked mine as well. The cuisine is quite different. Every dish
features a particular meat, spices,
cooking method and presentation
style. I’ve been in this business for
22 years, but I’m excited about it
as I was when I first started.
How did you manage to find the
recipes?
Going through the Ottoman
archives requires a strong command of Ottoman Turkish as
well as academic know-how.
We compile recipes that the researchers have uncovered, and
then we try to adapt it to contemporary times, which is quite difficult considering that even the
measurements used then were
different. Sometimes the kitchen
resembles a laboratory with the
whole lot of us referring to various
sources while creating a particular dish. We try to develop suitable
formulas by experimenting with
them. Visual aesthetics is another point to take into consideration.
We add a dish to the menu only
after trying it out again and again
and after getting approval from
our patrons.
As far as we can see from the
menu, the cuisine is made up of
mainly meat dishes.
It’s a very rich cuisine that
utilises an abundance of items.
While suckling lamb is the preferred choice, game, duck, goose,
quail, chicken, freshwater fish
and seafood are also used to a
great extent. Special hunting
teams were formed for the palace. One of the key points was the
use of local and seasonal ingredients. Each ingredient was sourced
from where it was best produced.
Meats are for the most part
cooked with dry fruits like apricots, grapes and figs and fresh
fruits such as apples, pears and
melons. We currently have near-
Chef Kadir Yılmaz of Matbah
Restaurant in Sultanahmet
Sweetest ISTANBUL
A slice of baklava after
breaking your fast, a few
pieces of Turkish delight
with coffee, or a cookie with
your tea – here are some of
the most exclusive spots in
Istanbul’s dessert culture
D
essert isn’t so innocent, and it’s hard to
enjoy it in peace especially if you have put
on a few extra pounds. However,
this doesn’t mean you can’t indulge your sweet tooth once in
a while, especially if you are on a
vacation in Istanbul with a dessert culture, which is as delicious
as it is ancient. Refined sugar may
have seeped into Turkish cuisine
as late as the 17th century but the
residents of Istanbul were happily indulging in desserts much before that. The halwas -- sweetened using molasses and honey
-- Turkish delights and fruit desserts were meal staples during
the reign of the Ottomans. There
is no doubt that the arrival of refined sugar enriched its sweets
further. Those who have visited
Istanbul must have noticed that
it’s hard to find a street without a
dessert or a baklava shop.
TRADITIONAL DELICACIES
The centrepieces of Istanbul’s
dessert culture are Turkish delight and Akide (colourful and aromatic candy). Akide candy was
handed out in bonus distribution
ceremonies to Janissary corps
during the Ottoman era and was
a symbol of the Janissaries’ satisfaction with the reigning sultan, as well as their loyalty to him.
Rose, hazelnut, cinnamon, and
mint flavours are popular among
most people, while children prefer
banana and strawberry.
Turkish delight, made of water, sugar and starch, is also
among the most important des-
12 > 13 GLOBAL CONNECTION JUNE 2015
serts in the country. It is an old
Istanbul tradition to offer mint or
rose-flavoured Turkish delight
after meals to guests, to freshen the palate. It should be noted that the store where Turkish
delight was invented, Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir, still operates in
its Eminonu and Istiklal Street
branches (hacibekir.com). You
can also head to Halis Bekrizade
in Karakoy for these. (Tersane
Cad. No.5 Karakoy).
WITH SHERBET, OR MILK?
Baklava is a widely consumed
dessert in the Middle East and
Greece. Istanbul too offers some
ly 300 dishes. Before we add them
to the menu, we try out and select those that are most suitable
for the season and today’s palate.
What went on at the Ottoman
palace during the holy month?
In addition to the main dishes,
sherbet, dessert and halva came
to prominence in Ramadan during the Ottoman era. We, too, revamp our menu every Ramadan.
We welcome our guests with a
sumptuous iftar spread. Among
soups, I recommend the almond
soup. Followed by the sailor’s roll
as an appetiser, and then the
lamb shank as the main dish.
Guests can try the almond halva
for dessert. We have a rich halva menu as it was an important
dessert in the Ottoman palace. A
special halva-making shop was
built, and halva was treated as
not only dessert but also medicine. Sherbet would be a perfect
end to the meal. I recommend
hibiscus, rose, melon seed and
tamarind sherbet. 
amazing baklava specialities
made by chefs from Gaziantep.
You should also try rolled baklava made by stuffing very thin filo dough sheets with ground pistachio. Baklava should ideally be
enjoyed in the first few days after it is made, but if you are going to take it with you back home,
you should tell the shopkeeper.
He will pack it accordingly. Karakoy Gulluoglu can help you with
that (Rihtim Cad. No.3 Karakoy).
Not all the desserts you can
enjoy in Istanbul are heavy on
calories. This is a city with a
strong milk dessert culture, and
you can find many stores around
you that stock only milk desserts. Muhallebi, made from
starch, milk, and eggs; sutlac (rice
pudding) made with rice; keskul, made with almonds and rice
flour; and tavukgogsu, made from
ground chicken breast, are light
and healthy milk desserts. Hafiz
Mustafa in Sirkeci is also a wellknown place for milk desserts, as
well as baklava and Turkish delight. (hafizmustafa.com).
One can trace the influence
of the Balkans on Istanbul’s dessert culture with marzipan as the
city has mastered it well. You can
count on the almond marzipan
as well as pistachio and hazelnut
pastes. For instance, Bebek Badem Ezmecisi has only one location and produces almond and
pistachio marzipan using traditional methods under its brand
(Cevdet Pasa Cad. 53 Bebek). 
SPECIALLY
BAKED
FOR RAMADAN
SPECIALLY
BAKED
If you’re going to spend time in Istanbul during
Ramadan, don’t miss out on the joy of breaking fast
with warm, freshly baked pide (Turkish flatbread)
FOR RAMADAN
BY AYSE KAYA
F
or the past few years,
Ramadan in Istanbul has coincided with
summer. The weather
is wonderful. In a historic and
traditional part of Sariyer, one
of Istanbul’s northern neighbourhoods, I walk towards
the bakery on my way home
from work. There’s a 150-metre-long queue in front of me.
Everyone is waiting in line for
the same thing: The musthave of iftar (the meal at sunset that breaks the fast) meals
in Turkey–warm, freshly
baked Ramadan pide bread.
Even if you’re tired and hungry, the amazing smell of leavened bread, sesame, and black
cumin seed wafting in the air
gives you enough reason to
wait in line for 20 minutes.
Ramadan pide is a type of
flat yeast bread. It has a very
different texture and taste
compared to conventional pita. It is topped with sesame
and black cumin seeds, and
brushed with whisked egg. It
can be found only during the
month of Ramadan, during iftar and suhoor (pre-dawn
meal before the fast), and because its taste changes when
it cools down, it must be purchased right before a meal.
That’s why people form long
lines for it.
It’s not unusual for the
youngest member of the family, who is usually sent to the
bakery to buy the pide, to nib-
ble on their first pide before
they bring it home. I live alone,
and I don’t have such luxury; I
have to buy my own pide.
BUTTER AND
CHEESE COMBO
A good pide must be
cooked in a stone, wood-fired
oven. When you walk into
the bakery, you will see pides
and breads being prepared in
front of you. The dough master sprinkles the balls of dough
in his hands with flour, and
then gives each of them a circular shape with his fingers.
He makes little round indents
on the top and decorates the
dough. As he loads the pide
loaves onto the peel, a freshly
baked batch comes out of the
oven. This appetising smell is
the hardest stage of preserving your self-control.
Do not slice the pide before
it cools down; tear off pieces with your hands instead.
Turks usually break their
fast first with a glass of water, and then a piece of warm
pide with butter and cheese.
Other popular sides with pide
are tulum (a traditional Turkish goat’s milk cheese), walnuts, yogurt, olives, jam, and,
for children, hazelnut spread.
Pide is an appropriate choice
for those who like the crispy
crust of the bread, rather
than the inside. If you’re in Istanbul during Ramadan, don’t
deprive yourself of the joy of
spreading butter on warm pide, and, even better, sharing
pide with someone. 
HOW TO BAKE RAMADAN PIDE AT HOME
To bake the perfect Ramadan pide, first you need a yeast mix.
Mix 2 packets of fast- rising dry yeast, half a tablespoon of salt,
a dessert spoon of sugar, and 200ml of tepid water in a deep
bowl and let it sit for 2 minutes. Add 500 grams of flour to the mix
and knead for 10 minutes. Let the dough rise for approximately 2
hours in an oiled pan until it doubles. Spread the dough on a 14inch pizza pan. You can brush it with egg yolks and sprinkle with
sesame or black cumin seeds if you like. Bake in the oven for 12–
18 minutes at 200 degrees Celsius. Enjoy!
Y
Ramadan in Turkey
MORE THAN A SHOPPING CENTRE: A CENTRE
OF ATTRACTION, ZORLU SHOPPING MALL
a 9,600 square meters flagship
store with an all-new concept
at Zorlu Shopping Mall. Apple
opened its first store in Turkey
at Zorlu Shopping Mall using
the iconic “cube store” format
of its New York location. Other brands opening their first
stores in Turkey at Zorlu Shopping Mall including Brooks Brothers, Industrie Denim, Cos, Lanvin,
Pomellato, Stella McCartney and
Superdry. In addition to fashion
leaders such as Dolce&Gabbana,
Valentino, Saint Laurent, Tiffany & Co., Fendi, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Burberry, Cavalli, Michael Kors, Moncler, Mont Blanc,
Vakko, Sevan Bicakci, Sponza,
Urart and Max&Co., Zorlu Shopping Mall also features locomotive brands like Beymen Club,
GAP, Pinko, Faconnable, Tommy
Hilfiger, Gant, Network, Ipekyol, Abdullah Kigili, Koton, Mango,
Yargici and Lacoste, as well as, at
3,000 square meters, the largest
H&M location in Turkey.
Zorlu Shopping Mall also sets
itself apart with its gourmet dining concepts. In addition to gourmet restaurants coming to Turkey for the first time like Eataly,
Jamie’s Italian, Tom’s Kitchen,
Morini, Zorlu Center also highlights fresh and exciting new con-
Zorlu is a unique shopping
mall in the heart of Istanbul,
a magnet for international
interest that is “the city’s
new meeting point”.
G
enerating
powerful
synergies with Zorlu’s other functions, including the Performing Arts Center, Raffles
Hotel, residences and offices, Zorlu
Shopping Mall features a range of
high profile stores opening in Turkey for the first time, ambitious
gourmet offerings and an alfresco city square concept in Istanbul
and one of the most talked-about
malls in Europe. With approximately 180 stores comprising
70,000 square meters of gross
leasable area along with a 10,000
square meters main square adjoined by a 12,000 square meters park, Zorlu Shopping Mall is
a new urban destination built on a
105,000 square meters property,
the centerpieces of which are its
inviting squares and green spaces, which offer a combination of
alfresco and enclosed areas.
Beymen, Turkey’s top highend multi-brand retailer, opened
RC GULF_29,5x22 cm copy.pdf
1
01.06.2015
15:16
ed in the heart of modern Istanbul, Zorlu Shopping Mall is within
walking distance of the prestigious Levazim and Zincirlikuyu
neighborhoods. Moreover, Zorlu Shopping Mall is easy to reach
thanks to access tunnels connecting it to the Istanbul metro
and the metrobus system. Visitors
can access Zorlu Shopping Mall
from a variety of routes, with eyecatching and user-friendly wayfinding making it easy to reach via
Ulus, Levent, Levazim, Barbaros
Boulevard and Zincirlikuyu.
cepts from Turkish restaurants
including Parle, Kosebasi and Gunaydin Kofte. Zorlu Shopping Mall
also features home décor, consumer electronics and special interest stores such as Crate and
Barrel, Linens, Chakra, Esse, English Home, Monev, Pasabahce,
Vestel, Bimeks Teknoport, Sony and D&R, as well as stores featuring eye-catching collections
for kids including Burberry Kids,
Carter’s, Imaginarium, Jacadi, Joker Baby, Joker Toys, Mothercare,
Superkids and Tartine et Chocolat.Zorlu Shopping Mall’s newly
developed lighting technology adjusts the lighting system on different floors of the mall to changes in
levels of daylight. Visitors enjoy
outstanding weather whenever
they visit thanks to superior de-
sign that includes ice and snow
melting systems in the square and
all walkways, while the alfresco
space brings boutique shopping to
Zorlu Shopping Mall.
Zorlu Shopping Mall brings
movie lovers an exceptional cinematic experience at the 1,600
person Cinemaximum, which
features a total of 14 cinemas, including two VIP cinemas. Locat-
RAMADAN AT ZORLU
During Ramadan, Zorlu will
be hosting a wide range of activities targeting both adults and
kids. There will be traditional music concerts held in the Zorlu Park
area between 23rd June and 30th
June. There will also be an exhibition of Karagoz and Hacivat, the
lead characters in the traditional
Turkish shadow play. In addition,
there will be Karagoz and Hacivat
events for kids including puppet
workshops, a puppet show and
a diverse 40-minute show of the
shadow play. Also during Ramadan, there will be mini-kid workshop events including making
kites, painting flowerpots, planting small greenhouses, etc. 
Ramadan in Turkey
RELIVING THE TIME OF THE OTTOMANS
Tarakli is a true
architectural treasure
trove with Ottomanstyle homes with
wooden oriels,
historical arcades
and Turkish baths
WHAT TO...
Tarakli hosts
approximately 100
historical homes
and estates under
preservation
BUY
Tarakli is making efforts to revive
woodworking. You can buy all sorts
of wooden souvenirs at shops in
the region, from ceiling bosses and
wooden spoons, to mirrored chests
and engraved coffee tables, etc.
EAT
BY MELIH USLU
R
oughly 200 kilometres away from Istanbul in the northwestern part of
Turkey is Tarakli, a
settlement that features some of
the most beautiful examples of
civilian Ottoman architecture in
the country. According to famed
historian Joseph von HammerPurgstall, author of Geschichte
des osmanischen Reiches the
10-volume treatise on Ottoman history, this was one of first
places along the Silk Route to be
conquered. Tarakli has a history of hosting countless tradesmen and pilgrims for centuries.
Selim I "the Grim" stopped here
in the 16th century on his way
to his Egypt campaign and was
very impressed by the hospitality. Evliya Celebi, the Ottoman
traveller, wrote the following
lines about Tarakli in his travelogue, Seyahatname (Book of
Travels): "It is a flourishing town
made up of wide grape vines and
well-manicured gardens, as well
as about 500 homes built around
a river. It has one bath, five arcades, six schools, and 200
shops. Its wooden spoons and
combs are famous.” When you
get there, you will realise how little it has changed.
THE MUSEUM CITY
One of nine areas in Turkey associated with the Italian Cittaslow movement, Tarakli is situated in a forested valley.
It hosts approximately 100 historical homes and estates under
preservation. These structures
TARAKLI HAS A
HISTORY OF HOSTING
COUNTLESS
TRADESMEN AND
PILGRIMS FOR
CENTURIES
mostly belong to individuals, and
are being restored piece by piece
with government support. The
restoration of about 10 historical mansions has been completed and they are now being used
as hotels, museums and restaurants. The houses here are usually three-storied and stand
out with their use of caged windows, wooden oriels, and historical tympanums. First floors and
courtyards are built with stones
that match the pattern of the
cobbled streets. Main entrance
doors are double-winged and
usually made of walnut wood.
Doors have been mounted with
iron nails with wide heads, while
the handles and gavels on the
doors are wrought iron.
ELEGANT ARCHITECTURE
Sitting between Istanbul and
Ankara, Tarakli resembles an
emerald island where the newest oriel-adorned houses scat-
The city of colours
tered around the Goynuk Stream
can date back by a century. Sixty
per cent of this area is forested.
The Tarakli Culture House, itself
an exemplary example of restoration, serves as an ethnography
museum and is a prime destination for visitors. The 200-yearold wooden structure carries
the elegant lines of 19th century Anatolian architecture with
its long roof ridges, beamed balconies, and sliding windows. After we exit the Culture House, we
stroll around the narrow cobblestone streets, where we come
across historical arcades and
baths at every step. Another
sight in the area is the Yunus Pasa Mosque, built in 1517 by Mimar Sinan. 
Try the “uhut.” - a kind of sugarfree wheat mash stirred into a
paste The keskek (a traditional
Turkish meat and wheat dish
prepared for wedding ceremonies,
funerals and religious holidays),
chickpea dumplings, and foam
halva are the other must-trys.
GET THERE
From Istanbul you follow the TEM
(Trans-European Motorway)
towards Ankara. You take the
Bilecik-Eskisehir exit and after
driving for about 25 kilometres,
follow the signs to Tarakli. You
can also reach by bus, heading to
Goynuk or Adapazari from Istanbul.
With a history dating back 11,500 years,
Urfa remains steeped in cultural, spiritual
and mystical influences
BY RUQYA KHAN
Harran
T
he ancient city of Urfa (Sanliurfa) lies about
180 kilometres west
of Kiziltepe, in southeastern Anatolia. A
calm and serene place known
for its legendary myths Urfa has
been a place of interest for many.
Its history dates back more than
11,500 years. It has hosted some
of the world’s oldest civilisations.
Beyond the strong religious history, it is a city seeped with the
beautiful colours of tribal life,
bustling bazaars and aromatic
tea and kebabs. Its cultural, spiritual and mystical atmosphere
remains very much alive, attracting a large number of visitors.
A BRILLIANT BLEND OF
PAST WITH PRESENT
Urfa is a blend of old and new,
with Turkish, Arab and Kurdish peasants who come from the
countryside haggling in the traditional bazaar, while young technocrats and engineers hustle between offices and shops lining
the modern downtown section.
Among the main attractions
of Urfa are the nomadic tribes
who inhabit this place. The villagers are big on handicrafts
like felt making, tannery, stone
working, weaving, woodworks,
copper works, saddle making,
fur making and jewellery design.
These old trading centres of Urfa date back to Ottoman times;
among the famous bazaars are
Kazzaz Bazaar, Sipahi Bazaar
and Huseyniye Bazaar.
14 > 15 GLOBAL CONNECTION JUNE 2015
Balikligol
Madrasah
Halfeti
TRADITIONS GALORE
Urfa is a city of ancient traditions, old friendships and mystical associations. People here
honour the custom of Sira Geceleri, which brings together people sharing the same pleasures,
world views and ideas. Members of the group take it in turns
to host these events, which
have a ceremonial character
and are based on a sense of fraternity. Country excursions also take place in a similar communal spirit of friendship, with
each family contributing differ-
APART FROM ITS
ORIENTAL CHARMS
URFA BOASTS
OF AMAZING
ARCHITECTURE AND
GREAT HISTORY
ent and special home cooked
dishes from the famous regional cuisine.
Certain traditions like inking
tattoos of figures like animals of
wild life, daily life articles, weapons and numerical figures for
bringing luck to small children
are slowly fading away. But the
persona of this city of prophets
will remain forever in its warmth
and its peace and togetherness.
A visit to the city is incomplete
without a taste of the world famous kebabs. With assortments
as rare as eggplant and meat kebab, and tomato with meat kebab a food connoisseur is in for
some succulent surprises. Even
in dining there is a system, a tradition. The kebabs are eaten with
special bread called the durum
and the meal is closed on a sweet
note of fresh kunefe as dessert
and then a special Urfa postmeal coffee, mirra. Take care to
drink it in traditional fashion,
otherwise you are risking the
chance of offending a native. 
Ramadan in Turkey
UNPARALLELED
AMBIENCE
The Residences at Mandarin Oriental, Bodrum offer breathtaking views
of the Mediterranean Sea and are nestled amongst olive groves, pine
forests and sandy beaches
A
stas Holding, Turkey’s
leading high-end real
estate developer is delighted to announce that
its latest project Mandarin Oriental,
Bodrum has been honoured with
the Tatler Spa Guide Award 2015.
Mandarin Oriental, Bodrum is situated at Cennet Koyu (Paradise
Bay), Turkey, which is often referred to as the new Saint-Tropez.
The idyllic beachfront location is
within easy reach of many of the
Bodrum Peninsula’s most beautiful attractions. Mandarin Oriental, Bodrum offers a seductive
blend of style, luxury and comfort.
With two private beaches, a range
of dining establishments, an outstanding spa and choice of contemporary rooms, suites and villas,
the unique facilities and excellent
service are truly world-class.
INSPIRED BY THE ORIENT
Located on a 60-hectare waterfront site, the resort was designed
by renowned architect and designer, Antonio Citterio. As stylish as
they are spacious, beautiful rooms
and suites offer the perfect blend
of luxury and comfort.
The 96 villas and 116 residences offer breathtaking views
of the Mediterranean Sea and are
nestled amongst olive groves,
pine forests and sandy beaches. Discerning residents will delight in the award-winning Spa at
Mandarin Oriental, Bodrum. Inspired by the healing traditions
of the Orient, the tranquil spa of-
fers expert treatments, attentive
therapists and world-class facilities. A carefully curated selection
of ten restaurants and bars offer the finest dining in the region
with a tantalising range of experiences. From tennis to scuba-diving, pottery to crafts, the resort
also offers a fantastic range of leisure activities for every guest.
For more information please see
www.MOresidencesbodrum.com
Ramadan in Turkey
Fascinating & unspoilt
Alibey Island
Seeking a quieter place during your
Ramadan break? Hit up Edremit Bay
on Turkey’s West Coast, an idyllic
location with beautiful beaches,
picturesque villages, cosy hotels and
an impressive cultural heritage
BY ARNO MAIERBRUGGER
G
rowing ever popular
among Middle Eastern
tourists, Turkey offers
something for everyone, ranging from
beach holidays, yachting and diving to city and shopping trips, jungle trekking, eco-lodging and even
skiing. Visitors are indeed spoilt for
choice in Turkey.
However, for the quieter sea-
son of Ramadan we recommend a
place slightly off the beaten track,
or at least away from the crowds
that usually flock to Aegean towns
such as Bodrum and Marmara
with busy seaside avenues. Edremit Bay, a lesser known tourism
spot, but nonetheless equipped
with first-class touristic infrastructure, is a good place to kick
back during the holy month.
Edremit Bay is a quieter gem on
the tip of the northern Aegean Sea
on the west coast of Turkey, 90
minutes from Gallipoli, says Somer
Edremit Bay is a good
place to kick back during
the holy month
Sivrioglu, Turkish-Australian chef
and well-known travel blogger.
He sums up what makes the
place worth a visit: It’s the picturesque villages, delicious local food,
some of the best boutique hotels
in Turkey, shops and the markets
where one can find original handicraft items and a large variety of
local produce such as cheeses, olives, fresh vegetables, andwild
weed from the mountains.
THE OLIVE RIVIERA
The area around the bay is one
THE GLORY AND
THE GRANDEUR
BY GARETH REES
T
oday Edirne is the capital of the Edirne province in East Thrace,
close to Turkey’s borders with two neighbouring Eastern European countries, Greece and Bulgaria. But for
90 years, until 1453, having been
conquered by Sultan Murad I in
1363 and renamed (it was previously known as Adrianople), it was
the third capital of the growing Ottoman Empire, which would be a
major world power until 1923.
As a result of its illustrious history, the city has a rich heritage
and many historical sites, including
a number of celebrated mosques.
But its biggest attraction is the
magnificent Selimiye Mosque, one
of the most acclaimed examples of
Islamic architecture.
The mosque was commissioned by one of the Ottoman
Empire’s greatest monarchs,
Sultan Selim II, son of Suleiman
the Magnificent. Legend has it
that Selim saw the Prophet Mohammad (PBUH) in a dream and
decided to build a mosque in
celebration. Mimar Sinan, the Ottoman Empire’s most celebrated and influential architect constructed the spectacular building
between 1569 and 1575.
Sinan (1490 to 1588), who
made a name building military
bridges and fortifications, became
16 GLOBAL CONNECTION JUNE 2015
the chief architect of the Ottoman
Empire during the rule of Suleiman
the Magnificent (1520 to 1566). His
output was prodigious; he erected
palaces, public baths, schools, hospitals and numerous other buildings, including 79 mosques, among
SIGHTS AND SOUNDS
In the north of the bay lies a
mountainous region that is great
for trekking, which can be combined with visits to historical sites
such as the ancient Greek city of
Antandros and the Bath of Aphrodite, a natural pool from Roman
times. Excavations of the bath are
still in progress. Another attraction, Kazdagi, or Mount Ida is a national park north of Edremit Bay
that boasts thermal springs and
extremely diverse flora and fauna.
“[Edremit Bay] is the prime holiday country for Turks living in Istanbul and Izmir,” says Pat Yale,
UK-born travel writer, who moved
to Turkey in the 1990s.
“It is, after all, backed by the
foothills of the Kazdagi mountain, where Yesilyurt and Adatepe
are two of the prettiest villages
in all of Turkey. Kucukkuyu and
Tahtakuslar have interesting small
museums. The old part of Altinoluk
is full of fine old Ottoman houses.
There are amazing Roman ruins
tucked away amid the olive trees,
and the beach at Oren is spectacularly beautiful.”
Adding to the scenery, is the
Ayvalik archipelago in the south, a
group of 22 large and small islands
and a popular summer destination
mostly for locals and increasingly
for foreign tourists looking for a relaxing holiday in pleasant and laidback surroundings. In the main
seaside town of Ayvalik, there are
lots of restaurants serving excellent local food and, of course, many
Turkish coffee houses.
In addition, Camlik and Alibey
Islands are famous for their seafood specialities. There are also
various monasteries and churches
from the Byzantine period on the
surrounding islands. 
kulliye”. The word kulliye refers
to the complex of buildings surrounding the mosque.
Selimiye Mosque consists of a
huge and handsome central dome,
31.25 in diameter and rising to
43.25m, sitting atop eight pillars
connected by arches. The dome
is surrounded by four slim minarets, more than 70m high, which
shoot gracefully towards the sky
like giant needles. Sinan’s innovative design ensured that the dome
was the main focal point of the exterior and allowed for a vast, open
45mx36m prayer space with none
of the segmentation found inside
many other mosques. The space
is filled with light, which streams
through the small windows in the
three sides of the interior facing
the mihrab (the niche indicating
the direction of the Kaaba in Makkah). The outer walls are of finely
crafted ashlar masonry, while other notable design features include
the marble carvings covering the
mihrab and minbar (pulpit) and the
parts of the interior decorated with
beautiful Iznik tiles.
Visitors to Selimiye Mosque will
also be able to explore the complex’s large courtyard, two madrasas (religious schools), a children’s
library and Arasta, a bazaar with
120 shops. 
clear day, the Greek island of Lesbos can be seen to the south.
them masterworks such as Sehzade Mosque and Suleymaniye Mosque, both in Istanbul. But
Sinan himself considered Selimiye Mosque, constructed in the later period of his life, after the reign
of Suleiman the Magnificent, his
of Turkey’s central olive oil producing regions. The Olive Oil Museum
in the city of Adatepe up north offers fascinating insight.
This is also the reason the bay
is called the Olive Riviera, as its
shores are almost entirely covered
with olive trees. In addition, the area is filled with natural and historical assets, and there are many old
houses boasting traditional architecture. For example, Assos is
a small and serene seaside town
west of Edremit city, famous for
its ancient Temple of Athena. On a
The magnificent
Selimiye Mosque
embellishes Edirne’s
reputation as a city
with rich heritage
and history
greatest work. It would be hard to
argue with Sinan’s appraisal. Unesco, which included Selimiye
Mosque on its World Heritage List
in 2011, describes it as “the ultimate architectural expression by
the architect Sinan of the Ottoman
The mosque was
commissioned by
one of the Ottoman
Empire’s greatest
monarchs, Sultan
Selim II, son of
Suleiman the
Magnificent
WHAT ELSE TO SEE
Bayezid II Health Museum
This 15th century hospital and
medical school built in 1488 by
Sultan Bayezid II and operational
until the late 19th century is now a
museum dedicated to the history
of Islamic medicine. Part of the
Bayezid II Mosque complex, it is
managed by Trakya University.
Ali Pasha Bazaar
Mimar Sinan, the architect
responsible for building Selimiye
Mosque, constructed this historic
bazaar in 1569.
WHERE TO EAT
Melek Anne
Housed in a 120-year-old building,
this charming little restaurant
specialises in traditional
homemade Turkish food.
Kofteci Osman
One of Edirne’s most popular
restaurants, Kofteci Osman
serves two of the city’s most
beloved dishes -- meatballs and
deep-fried calves’ liver.