The answers

The answers
Chrysal International BV
P.O. Box 5300 1410 AH NAARDEN The Netherlands
T: +31 35-695 58 88 F: +31 35-695 58 22
[email protected] www.chrysal.com
Chrysal International BV complies with the requirements of
the ETI Base Code. Audited by MPS-ECAS; MPS no 801313/1.
© 2012 Chrysal International B.V., Naarden - Holland. All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without prior written permission of the publisher.
The Beauty of Chrysal and the Chrysal logo are registrated trademarks of Chrysal International B.V., Naarden - Holland.
®
Grower
Post-harvest Concept
Products:Chrysal pre-treatment products.
Effects: Protects flowers against physiological disorders and
stimulates water uptake.
When Chrysal flower food was introduced in the market in 1949, it caused a
revolution in the floral industry, being the first professional cut flower food ever
invented. The use of Chrysal flower food extends the life span of cut flowers
enormously. In some cases the life span even doubles. The use of our products creates
an added value for the entire horticultural chain: from grower to retailer to consumer.
Services: Audits, “Chrysal Code of Practice” and consulting.
Wholesaler / Bouquet Maker
Control & Conditioning Concept
This starts with research activities in the international flower growing areas with
our technical consulting team and our R&D department, by using our lab and test
facilities. The result of this research is matched with the requirements of our customers,
which form the basis for our activities in developing new care products and concepts.
This innovative approach is still our main driving force.
Products:Chrysal Professional 1 and 2.
Effects: Chrysal Professional 1 rehydrates flowers after
dry transport. Chrysal Professional 2 keeps the
flower in optimum condition and can be used for
transportation or display of flowers.
Services: POS material, audits, “Chrysal Code of Practice”
and consulting support on e.g. automating, waste
and cost management processes.
Retailer / Florist
Control & Conditioning Concept
Products:Chrysal Professional 2 and 3.
Effects: Chrysal Professional 2 keeps the flower in optimum
condition and can be used for transportation or display
of flowers. Chrysal Professional 3 is to be used in floral
arrangements and boosts the flower into bloom.
Services: POS material, Chrysal Academy, training programs,
“Chrysal Code of Practice” and consulting support
on e.g. cost and waste management.
Consumer
Products:Chrysal cut flower food and Vitabric patch.
Effects: Chrysal cut flower food provides nutritional supple
ments to the flower for optimum bloom and a long
and enjoyable (vase) life for the consumer. The Vitabric
patch lengthens the vase life of all cut flowers.
Services: Private label design, FAQ and care information.
Dear customer,
To share our extensive knowledge, we have developed this book: a practical guide
with information on flower treatment, including a Code of Practice. It is a renewed
version of our former successful 75 FAQ booklet. The answers and information on
flower care in this book are based entirely on our own research and experience.
It is meant as a reference book for daily use, for both professionals and students.
In the book, there are two different ways of finding an answer to your question.
The answers can be found in the table of contents at the beginning of the book
or within the keywords at the back. The keywords may refer to multiple questions
about a particular topic.
Care Concept
Hopefully this book will let your creativity blossom,
your business grow and your company flourish.
On behalf of the Chrysal team,
Joep Wiegel,
CEO Chrysal International
The Questions
Treatment of cut flowers
1. What factors determine the vase life?
2. What are the best cut flower care rules for consumers?
3. What are the three main post harvest problems with cut flowers?
4. What is the best maturity/cutting stage?
5. Why do flowers in a mixed bouquet not bloom at the same time?
6. Why should you not place flowers in direct sunlight or next to a heater?
7. Why don’t cut flowers like draughts?
8. Should flowers be kept in the dark in their packaging after been brought home?
9. What to do with mixed bouquets with Narcissus?
Vases
10. Why and when to clean vases?
11. What size should the vase be?
12. What is the best kind of container for flowers?
13. Scum in Crystal vases
14. Why rinse before re-using the vase?
15. How to store vases and containers?
16. Why shouldn’t metal containers be used?
Vase water
17. Does floral wire and twine affect the vase water quality?
18. Myths about water temperature and the best choice
19. What is the best water for flowers?
20. What are the critical levels for flower vase water?
Cut flower food
21. Why do flowers need flower food?
22. What are the ingredients of cut flower foods?
23. What is Chrysal universal and why are there different specialties?
24. What is the difference between powder and liquid flower food?
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
What should be used for “topping up” vase water?
Why is vase life not always a good as expected?
What are the effects of under- and overdosing?
How effective are home remedies?
How do you remove vase water stains from clothing and carpets?
How do you keep the vase water clean?
Stems and leaves of cut flowers
31. Should the stems be cut?
32. Why replace the vase water?
33. Is cutting the stem necessary?
34. What is the best way to cut the stem?
35. Tools for cutting the stems
36. What are the negative effects of stem damage?
37. Why shouldn’t leaves hang down into the vase water?
38. Do all stems contaminate the vase water at the same rate?
39. What is bent-neck and what causes it?
40. What causes stem discolouration?
41. What causes leaf burn?
42. What causes leaf yellowing?
43. What is ethylene?
44. What can we do to prevent ethylene damage?
45. Should thorns be removed or left on?
46. What is Botrytis?
Everything else
47. Is the consumption of Chrysal consumer flower food detrimental to your health?
48. Can flower food cause skin irritations?
49. Why do dosing pumps get cloggged and smell bad in the morning?
50. Is cut flower food harmful for the environment?
51. How to remove pollen stains from clothing?
52. Should hospitals ban flowers from the wards?
1. What factors determine the vase life?
1. Genetic lifespan and vase life potential of cut flowers
Flower development and its duration, in connection with climatic conditions
and other factors, are different for each flower type and cultivar. Deviations
from the optimum care will lead to a short vase life for the consumer.
Post-harvest treatments do not have the power to influence the genetic
potential of the flower and are not formulated as such.
2. Growing condition of the plant
Growing conditions, such as light, temperature, relative humidity, fertilization and
crop protection have a marked effect on the post-harvest quality of the flower.
3. Post-harvest conditions
Temperature and humidity in particular, determine whether the cut flower will
be delivered to the consumer in good condition after the harvest.
Higher temperatures promote flower development.
Humidity plays an direct role in the condensation process during multiple and
significant temperature fluctuations and promotes the growth of the fungus Botrytis.
Treatment
of cut flowers
Hygiene
Lack of hygiene promotes the development of micro-organisms, which cause
the vase water to become turbid and ultimately smelly.
Distribution / transport time
Cut flowers come from all corners of the globe and they are shipped across
huge distances. Climate control, good packaging, post-harvest treatment and
speed are very important for quality conservation.
Post-harvest treatments
Using the most suitable post-harvest treatment for each flower type is one of
the measures needed to get the flowers through the distribution chain intact.
2. What are the best cut flower care rules for consumers?
• Purchase flowers of sufficient maturity and quality
• Pay attention to the quality of the stem; check for sturdiness, colour and the
absence of damage
• Ensure that you have enough cut flower food for the size of the bouquet and the
most suitable vase
• Consumer research has shown that the minimum vase size is 1 litre
• Always use a clean vase
• Do not use metal or antique crystal vases; if you do, use an acid resistant liner
• Carefully follow the dosing prescription
• Use fresh tap water
• Remove leaves below the rim of the vase
• Damage the stem as little as possible
• Remove thorns only if necessary
• Cut at least 2 cm off the stem; 5-10 cm is better
• Avoid damaging the cutting wound, so use a sharp knife or secateurs
• Cut the stems at an angle to prevent damaging and flattening of the stem
• Do not use unprotected or contaminated organic binding material
• Give flowers that arrive wilted a chance to re-hydrate in their packaging, in water,
in a cool, dark place for several hours
• Always use cut flower food, preferably the specialties
• Fill the vase for about a week’s worth of water intake
• Do not mix clear and non-clear flower foods in the same vase
• Replacing vase water is not necessary if cut flower food is used
• Remove wilted or damaged flowers and flowers with Botrytis
• Do not spray water on buds and flowers as this increases the chance of fungal
growth (Botrytis)
• Flowers do not like draughts, direct sunlight, proximity to a heater, smoke and
the gasses of ripening fruits!
• Topping up with cut flower food is only necessary when the water has decreased
to about 1/3 of the height of the vase
• Top up with the same flower food specialty or a universal flower food
3. What are the three main post harvest problems
with cut flowers?
The three main post-harvest problems of cut flowers can be summarized as follows:
1. Disturbed water balance
Blockage of the vascular bundles by air bubbles and micro-organisms
and organic matter in contaminated vase water. Symptoms of a disturbed
water balance are:
• Limp flower petals. This well known phenomenon is the premature wilting of
the flowers that are sensitive to vascular blockages, such as Bouvardia,
Chrysanthemum, Gerbera and Rosa.
• Bent-neck. Caused by a premature harvest. As soon as it gets thirsty, the young
tissue right under the flower bends over and closes off the vascular bundles
3. Disturbed nutrient balance
Energy is the driving force behind water intake, the production of plant hormones and
a natural development of the flower. Without energy, the flower would not be able to
develop and the flower would wilt more quickly than would normally be the case.
Symptoms of a lack of of nutrients are:
• Limited bud and flower development. Flowers get “stuck” in the early stage of
development (Iris, Gysophila, Chrysanthemum, Eustoma).
• Faded colours. The flower petals do not reach their normal colour intensity in
comparison to the flowers on the plant.
• Limited or no scent development.
• Limited flower development of the spike. When there is a shortage of energy,
the development of the flowers is limited, higher on the spike.
4. What is the best maturity/cutting stage?
2. Disturbed plant growth regulator (PGRs) balance
In reaction to being cut from the plant, many flowers will produce either an
overabundance or an insufficient amount of the plant growth regulators
formerly provided by the mother plant. Symptoms of PGR shortage are:
• Flower petals shrivel up and the buds and leaves drop, which obviously
shortens the vase life expectation. This is caused by ethylyne, the ageing
hormone produced in excess by cut flowers such as Dianthus, Delphinium,
Agapanthus and many other ‘summer flowers’.
• Leaf yellowing and limited flower development. Well known examples are the
yellowing leaves of Lilium, Alstroemeria, Matthiola, Tulipa and Euphorbia
fulgens. Iris is the most familiar example of a limited flower development.
• Stem elongation. Tulipa grow about 10 cm after cutting, during transport
and vase life.
• Geotropism (growth in response to gravity). During horizontal transport,
heads of cut flowers like Kniphofia, Gladiola, Gerbera and Anthurium have
a tendency to bend towards the light or lean away from gravity.
Flowers are sold in many different forms, colours
and opening stages. The cutting stage at the grower
is crucial to the vase life and flower development
at the consumers.
Summer cutting stage
Winter cutting stage
Buying stage
Buying stage
Flowers should not be cut too immature but
certianly not too open either, in order todeliver the
consumer an optimal product. Flowers cut
too tighty will never open and will become more
sensitive to ‘bent-neck’. Flowers cut too open can
also cause problems as they are more exposed to
petal damage during distribution.
Sometimes it is necessary to harvest at a tighter
cutting stage than prescribed. It is very important always to use one of our specialised post
harvest products at the grower, a conditioner for the retail phase and the right type and
amount of flower food at consumer.
5. Why do flowers in a mixed bouquet not bloom
at the same time?
6. Why should you not place flowers in direct sunlight
or next to a heater?
Harvest stage
Flowers are harvested during various stages of ‘ripeness’, depending on market
demands. Gerbera and Chrysanthemum seem like they are “further along” when
they are in a mixed bouquet with Dianthus (carnations) or Tulipa.
Neither direct sunlight nor immediate heat provide ideal conditions for cut
flowers and both should be avoided as much as possible. This may sound
contradictory, because light and heat are essential for the growth of flowers,
so-called photosynthesis. This is absolutely the case as long as the flowers are
still on the plant. Once they are cut though, everything changes.
The photosynthesis process quickly decreases or stops altogether and heat
becomes an important factor in premature ageing, which results in a shorter
vase life with the consumer.
Nutrient requirements
Flowers that have been harvested while they were still in the ‘bud stage’, such as
Rosa, Gladiola, Eustoma, appear to need more nutrients in order to fully develop.
Vase water quality
Lack of hygiene can lead to explosive growth of micro-organisms. This is unfavourable
for water and nutrient absorption, which can cause the flower development to
delay or stop completely, because the nutrients are no longer able to do their job.
Advice
• Hygiene; preventing infection in the vase water and cutting 5-10 cm off the stem
are the best contributors to a long vase life and odourless vase water
• Never add old vase water to fresh vase water
• In the industry, use Chrysal Professional and as a consumer, use a flower food
• Purchase mixed flowers in as even a maturity stage as possible
Day 1
Day 7
What are the negative sides of direct sunlight and heat?
The internal ageing process is speeded up which encourages production of and
susceptibility to the ageing hormone ethylene. Accelerated bud and flower development and possibly the tendency to drop leaves and flowers appear in all phases
of distribution where the temperature is raised disproportionately. Evaporation
accelerates because the stomata (compare these to pores in the human skin) are
opened more with higher temperatures. This happens, again just as with humans,
to activate a cooling off process.
This accelerated evaporation can lead to an imbalance of moisture/water intake.
Leaves and flowers both go limp and ultimately dry out. During the first phase of
moisture shortage, soft leaf tissue can show necrotic symptoms such as brown
leaf tips and brown spots. So-called bent-neck (flowers with heads hanging) is a
phenomenon that appears in Rosa quite frequently; its main cause is premature
harvesting. The very young tissue under the bud is very moisture-sensitive and will
show bent-neck sooner when a lot of evaporation is occurring. Higher temperatures
from heaters and/or sunlight also heat up the vase water, which, if it contains a lot
of contamination, will be accelerated thus reducing the vase life performance of
the cut flowers.
7. Why don’t cut flowers like draughts?
9. What to do with mixed bouquets with Narcissus?
In all the links of the distribution chain, with the grower, the wholesaler, the florist or
other retailer, draught can be a problem. It causes the flower’s moisture to evaporate to
a greater degree than it can absorb and it will go limp. The stomata on the underside
of the leaf regulate not only the moisture and heat that is put out, but also the carbon
dioxide and nitrogen exchange with the surrounding air. If there is little air movement,
the air layer around the leaf forms a protective cushion against excessive evaporation.
When there is heavy air movement, caused by things like draughts, this natural,
protective layer disappears, just as it does for humans. Under these kinds of conditions,
the flower evaporates more moisture than it can absorb, which again results in limp
leaves and flowers.
What can you do to prevent draughts?
1. Keep doors and windows closed as much as possible
2. Use suitable packaging to prevent transport damage and evaporation of water
through the leaves
3. Avoid placing flowers directly in air flows from front doors, open windows, fans,
heaters or air-conditioning ventilators
Narcissus are appreciated for their clear and welcome colours in late-winter and
early spring. That is why Narcissus is often sold as a cut flower, either in a mono
bouquet or in mixed bouquets with Tulipa, Anemone, Iris, Freesia, etc.
8. Should flowers be kept in the dark in their packaging
after been brought home?
1. For the retailer and florist, the Chrysal
CVBN tablet. This tablet neutralizes the
‘toxic’ Narcissus slime for other flowers
2. For the consumer there is Chrysal
Narcissus food, a cut flower supplement
After harvesting the water balance has been disturbed and the evaporation process is
sped up. The flowers need to readjust so that the flowers can re-hydrate themselves. You
can compare this to a human who tries to quench his thirst while sweating in the hot sun.
Lower temperatures, darkness and a higher humidity will close the stomata
(just like our pores). Place the flowers, in their packaging, in a cool, dark place in a
solution after a dry period. This will create the ideal conditions for the flowers to
restore themselves naturally. Compare this to the grower placing them in a cold store
after the harvest and same treatment from the florist upon their receipt.
In this way, the flower will look strong in the store and at home with the customer.
Narcissus secretes some slime from the stem after cutting. This Narcissus slime is a
secretion of the sieve tubes (Phloem)and when Narcissus are mixed with other flowers
in a bouquet, this may cause damage such as brown leaves, burnt leaves and flowers.
How to prevent damage from Narcissus slime?
Isolate Narcissus for a day. The Narcissus slime is secreted primarily during the first
hours, up to one day, after cutting the stem. By not cutting Narcissus or keeping it
separate for a day after cutting, the slime problem is largely prevented.
Practical treatment
In order to make the sale of mixed bouquets possible, Chrysal has developed 2
products:
Water, day 7, total vase life 8 days
Advice
Cut other flowers before cutting the Narcissus, so that no slime is transferred by
the knives, secateurs or shears being used.
Chrysal Clear Narcissus, day 7, total vase life 10 days
10. Why and when to clean vases?
Decomposing pieces of leaves and thorns, dust and other pollutants from the air,
contaminate the vase water. All this decomposition, organic matter and moulds
make the water turbid and can be a food source for micro-organisms. The vascular
bundles in the stem, required for absorbing water, can become plugged by this
contamination.This contamination is especially evident on the water surface.
When the water level drops, the unsightly scum remains on the side of the vase,
dries up and becomes visible.
Keeping the vase water free from decomposition elements is the first requirement.
The food supplements and acid regulators in Chrysal cut flower foods help flowers
to develop in a natural “plant-intact way” and the vase water is not contaminated
by all the decomposition products of the stem, as is the case with only tap water.
It is important to use the correct dosage to attain the
desired result.
Vases
It is also essential to get into the habit of cleaning
containers and vases immediately after use and
then again before use as often dust etc can form
whilst being stored in cupboards, on shelves etc
no matter how clean we think we are!
We recommend for florists to use Chrysal Cleaner
in containers and vases. This is a ‘soft’ cleaning
product that does not stain and is not aggressive
for cut flowers. Consumers are advised to use
washing-up liquid or the new Chrysal vase cleaning
tablet. For both florist and consumer it is essential
to remove all dirt and contamination by thoroughly
scrubbing after soaking.
11. What size should the vase be?
The “Best Match” is the best-fitting combination of a bouquet and a vase.
There is a logical relationship between the size, height and weight of a bouquet of
cut flowers and the size, height and weight of the vase, which ensures that:
• the flowers stand up straight
• the vase can preferably hold enough water for at least one week
• the vase weighs enough not to fall over i.e. not “top heavy”
• the desired arrangement is achieved
• flower arrangers often have as a rule of thumb that the height of the vase should
be between 40 and 60 % of the height of the bouquet
Relation bouquet size and vase content
mono bouquet*
- 0.9 litre
small mixed - 0.9 litre
medium mixed
- 1.6 litre
special/luxury mixed - 2.8 litre
*mono bouquet = bouquet with one type of flowers
Relation height bouquet and vase content
25 - 40 cm - 1.0 litre
41 - 50 cm - 1.2 litre
51 - 60 cm - 2.0 litre
> 60 cm - 3.2 litre
Relation weight of the bouquet and vase content
100 - 400 g. - 0.9 litre
401 - 700 g. - 1.5 litre
701 - 1000 g. - 2.0 litre
> 1000 g. - 2.3 litre
Relation number of stems and vase content
7 - 20 stems - 1.2 litre
21 - 40 stems - 1.5 litre
> 40 stems - 2.4 litre
Consumer research
During various research sessions, consumers in the Netherlands and Germany were
asked to choose the best-fitting vases for bouquets of various sizes and forms:
Conclusion:
1 litre is the minimum vase solution needed. Final conclusion, bearing in mind that cut
flower food is essential for flower development and acceptable vase life and accurate
dosing of cut flower food is crucial to achieve this goal, consumers should get at least:
• cut flower food for 1 litre vase solution for small bouquets
• cut flower food for 2 - 3 litres vase solution for the larger bouquets
• extra cut flower food for topping up/refilling when presented in vase
12. What is the best kind of container for flowers?
Any kind of container can be used for displaying flowers, however some are
more suitable than others for ensuring good flower development.
In order to achieve the very best possible vase life performance from your
flowers always try to display them in clean glass containers. Glass is an inert,
hard and smooth material which does not cause a reaction between vase
water and vase. Glass is not too sensitive to scratches on the inside and is easy
to clean.
Other types of container can be used, however you could be reducing the vase
life of your flowers or even irreparably spoiling the container itself!
Plastics
Not all plastics are resistant to acidic vase water and constant cleaning, which
causes the inside to turn grey and small scratches to appear. This makes them
difficult to clean and has an adverse effect on the vase life of the flowers.
Crystal
Older crystal vases often have extremely small pores in which micro-organisms
can accumulate. These small pores are difficult to clean and make the vase
(rim) prone to dullness, due to contamination. Newer crystal vases have not
developed these problems. Valuable, precious and/or antique crystal vases
should not be used to hold cut flowers.
Ceramics
Ceramics are relatively neutral if they are glazed. If they are unglazed, or the
glaze is chipped, micro-organisms accumulate in the damaged spot. These are
difficult to clean and have a negative effect on the flower’s vase life.
Metals
Cut flowers will turn the vase water acidic, just as flower food does. This increases
the chance of exchanging metal ions in the vase water. An increased concentration
of these metal ions in the water is toxic to flowers and causes burnt leaves and
flowers. Always use acid resistant plastic liners in metal containers or vases.
The best kind of container for flowers is a clean glass container
13. Scum in Crystal vases
In antique crystal vases this scum accumulates in the pores of the vase, which
makes it very difficult to clean properly.
Tests in which antique and new crystal vases were filled respectively with only tap
water and tap water with flower food added, showed that only antique crystal
vases were prone to dull spots and rings, compared to vases with only tap water.
New crystal vases often contain less lead than antique crystal vases. The lower the
lead content, the less prone the vase is to various problems.
14. Why rinse before re-using the vase?
Most households have more than one vase, so the appropriate one may be chosen
for the size of the bouquet and the vases will be stored for some time while not in
use. Cupboards and storage spaces may not always be as clean and free of dust and
bacteria as we wish them to be and therefore vases are often at least slightly, and
sometimes greatly, contaminated by bacteria. For this reason it is always a good
idea to scrub and rinse each vase before use. This gives both the flowers and the
vase water a fresh and clean start in order to help vase life performance.
Store vases and containers upside down
16. Why shouldn’t metal containers be used?
15. How to store vases and containers?
After cleaning, a few drops of moisture usually remain in the vase. These droplets
are a perfect environment for micro-organisms, such as bacteria, to develop while
being stored. That is why we recommend storing vases and containers upside
down in the cupboard or other storage space. This allows those last few droplets
to drain out. It also prevents dust and dirt (which also provide an excellent
environment for micro-organisms to grow) from settling inside the vases and
containers. Therefore, always rinse the container or vase before use. If a vase cleaning
tablet is provided with the bouquet of flowers, use it according to its instructions.
Scrub and rinse the vase well before filling it up with flower food, water and flowers.
The pH regulators in cut flowers often make a vase solution acidic (pH 4-5),
depending on the hardness/alkalinity of the water. Even in vases with only tap water,
the water will turn acidic within a few days. When containers made of unprotected
metal, such as zinc or copper, are used, metal ions are released into the water.
Within a few days the concentration of these ions in the container/vase can be
very high. Once absorbed by the cut flower, ‘toxic symptoms’ will appear, such as
stem discolouration and burnt leaves and flower petals.
It is possible to use zinc containers and prevent damage by placing an acid-resistant
plastic container/vase (liner) inside the zinc containers/vases. This will also prevent
the containers from rusting. Alternatively, you can use a plastic container/vase
that looks like zinc.
17. Does floral wire and twine affect the vase water quality?
Flower stems are bound together with an elastic band or other type of binding
material. Although it is common practice, some binding materials can have a
negative effect on the vase life. The same is true for Gerbera when it is supported
or pierced by a metal wire.
Elastic bands are no problem; they are made of inert material. Natural fibres, such
as raffia, rope etc., cause problems if they are biologically contaminated. In addition,
they can serve as food for bacteria that may be present, particularly in vases only
containing tap water i.e. no flower food.
Uncovered / protected metals are corrosive in the acidic vase water (pH 4-5) and
release metal particles that are “toxic” for flowers. This can lead to stem, leaf and
flower damage. Gerbera is often reinforced with a wire. In the vase, this wire can
begin to rust, which shortens the vase life of the Gerbera. Keeping the vases and
the vase water clean, using flower food and correct dosing will help to keep the
Gerbera stems straight.
Vase water
Tips:
• Purchase Gerbera varieties with
strong stems that do not require
the support of a wire.
• Use Chrysal CVBN to condition
Gerbera and help them “stand
strong”.
• If you must use binding material,
only use completley plasticized
wire or aluminium wire.
• Use inert, non organic binding
materials.
18. Myths about water temperature and the best choice
Ice water
Stem ends of flowers coming from dry storage may be dried out and air pockets
may develop inside the stems. These air bubbles clog the vascular bundles, which
decreases water absorption. Ice water dissolves these air bubbles, effectively
opening the way for water absorption.
True - it’s okay to use ice water!
Tap water
The temperature of tap water is generally between 10 - 15 º C. Filling vases with tap
water is simple and it’s always available. Add flower food and it becomes perfect
vase water for cut flowers that dissolves air bubbles in the stem at the same time as
feeding the flowers.
True - the best and easiest option!
Lukewarm water
The myth says that vase water must be lukewarm in order to be able to dissolve the
flower food (powder), or it will have a residue of undissolved powder on the bottom
of the vase.
False - no need to use lukewarm water with clear flower food!
However, non-clear cut flower food contains an acid regulator which can cause a
lime sediment on the bottom of the vase (like scale deposits). In vases with clear cut
flower food, such as Chrysal Clear, no sediment occurs.
Hot/boiled water
When water has been boiled and then cooled, it contains less oxygen and less air
bubbles clog up the stems, according to the story. Sometimes the stems are dipped in
scalding water to dissolve blockages or to counteract so-called ‘bleeding’. The result is
that the tissue is completely destroyed and the stem will start to decompose after a few
days. It has a negative impact on the duration and quality of the life of the flowers.
True - The clogging problem is resolved, but the price you pay is less days enjoying the flowers!
Our Advice
• use clean vases
• cut 5 - 10 cm off the stem
• use fresh, cold tap water
• use a cut flower food
• use the correct dosage of flower food to water
Cold tap water
Hot water
19. What is the best water for flowers?
Water is the most essential necessity for flowers to develop optimally. Water fills
up the growing cells in the cut flower and provides strength. Water is also the carrier of all nutrients needed for the natural development of leaf and flower. Water
shortage irrevocably leads to limp stems, leaves and flowers and ultimately to premature wilting and end of vase life. Not every water type is suitable for vase water
for cut flowers. Generally used in home and garden are Tap water, Rain water, Surface water, Ground water, Demineralized (D.I.) water, Reverse Osmosis (R.O.) water.
There is no standard for tap water. Water differs per country, region and city, and
even in different parts of a city the tap water can vary. The various types of tap
water differ in composition, acidity and organic and bacterial contamination.
Some of them emit chlorine vapours and others, for example, have fluoride added.
Tap water is generally a relatively neutral solution with a pH between 6 and 8.
No one knows exactly what water type is best suited for each flower type and
variety. Our intensive research has shown us that a difference is clearly discernible
among the vase life studies. One of the main effects of the flower food must
therefore always be the neutralization of these differences.
Recommendations
Water quality can greatly influence the flower quality (vase life) as well as the
effect of the products for flower care in the entire chain. It is important therefore,
to regularly check the water quality and the water source. Negative effects of the
water quality could be:
• reduced water absorption
• disturbed flower development and short vase life
• decreased solubility, stability and effectiveness of the flower food products
• symptoms of toxicity due to chlorine, fluoride, boron or iron in the groundwater
Advice
Use tap water and add cut flower food to it. According to our current knowledge,
that is the best for every cut flower.
20. What are the critical levels for flower vase water?
How does water hardness affect cut flowers?
The water hardness is measured by looking at the calcium and magnesium ion
levels in the water. A high level of hardness runs parallel with high alkalinity and high
conductivity. Vase life tests have shown that water with a hardness factor of 4 - 8 Dº
(soft to medium) makes the best vase water for cut flowers. Both very soft (Dº < 4)
and very hard (Dº > 8) water shortens the potential vase life.
What is the alkalinity and the optimal pH value for flowers?
The alkalinity expresses the acid buffering capacity. Flower vase water must be acidic
(pH 4 - 5). The higher the alkalinity of the water, the more pH regulator is required
to lower the pH level. A pH 4-5 is considered as the optimum condition for water
absorption and natural leaf and flower development. If the pH is lower than 4, flowers
with soft stems will be prone to stem-discolouration (e.g. Gerbera and Chrysanthemum).
This is primarily an aesthetic problem, it does not greatly affect the duration of the
vase life. Generally tap water is a fairly neutral solution with a pH level of 6-8.
What is meant with the conductivity of water?
The condictivity of water is an idication of the amount of dissolved salts in the water.
For cut flowers, this level should be no more than 500 µS/cm. The levels in Naarden,
The Netherlands, see the table herunder where Chrysal’s research department is
located, are considered favourable for cut flowers. For growers and the retail sector,
RO (Reverse Osmosis) water is an ideal type of water for flowers if the local tap water
is not optimal for cut flowers.
Example of a water analysis, Naarden water Chrysal research department, very good
water for cut flowers:
Parameter
Unit
Measuring method
Hardness
[˚D]
M49
Alkalinity (pH 4-5)
[mg HC03-/l] M13
Acidity level (pH)
pH measuring strips
Water hardness measuring strips
[-]
Electrical Conductivity (EC) [µS/cm]
M14
LOW
HIGH
Naarden
1
20
5-10
100
500
15
6
9
8,06
200
1000
343
21. Why do flowers need flower food?
Once flowers are cut, they are deprived of the water, food and growth hormones
that are provided to them by the mother plant in the preharvest stage. In order to
allow the cut flower to still bloom in a natural way, while retaining its form, flower
colour, scent and leaf colour, we need to supply it with flower food dissolved in
the vase water. This must happen at every phase of the distribution chain, at the
grower, the wholesaler, the florist and the retail level and finally at the consumer
level. Interruption of this ‘food chain’ will irrevocably lead to loss of vase life.
Water
Cut flower food
Chrysal
No natural flower development
Natural flower development using
when using only tap water
Chrysal Clear Universal or Chrysal Clear Rosa
22. What are the ingredients of cut flower foods?
Good cut flower food should contain the following ingredients:
• water softeners
• pH regulators
• water absorption promoters
• nutrients
All cut flowers benefit from the nutrients in cut flower food when this is absorbed
through the cut edge of the stems.
23. What is Chrysal universal and why are
there different specialties?
24. What is the difference between powder and
liquid flower food?
To neutralize/temper the stress factors of various cut flowers, besides Chrysal
Clear Universal flower food, specialized flower foods have been created to support
the flower in developing as much as it would on the plant as is possible.
Flower food provided by retailers is available in both powder sachets and more recently
in a liquid form in “stick packs”, but what are the benefits of liquid over powder?
The Chrysal program includes specialized cut flower food for the following flower
types : Rosa, Tulipa, Syringa, Chrysanthemum, Bouvardia, Lilium & Alstroemeria,
Bulbosus and mixed bouquets with Narcissus.
Below is an overview of the various types of cut flower foods for different flowers
and bouquet types:
Retail level
••
••
Mixed springbouquet with daffodils
Mixed bouquet with bulb
flowers and roses
Mixed bouquet with bulb flowers and roses
Mixed bouquet with lilies,
alstroemeria (without roses)
Mixed bouquet with lilies,
alstroemeria and roses
Mixed bouquet with
summer flowers
•
•
•
••
•
•
•
•
•
••
••
•
•
•
•
Daffodil
•
•
•
•
•
•
Type bouquet
Roses with gypsophila
Roses with freesias
Roses with lilies
Roses with other flowers
Rose
Lily &
Alstroemeria
Bulb flowers
Universal
CVBN
Prof 2 NG
Optimal care
for mixed
bouquets
Cut flower food
(transport &
display)
••• •
••
•
•
•
•
Tulips and stocks
Mixed spring bouquet with
hyacinths
Green for mixed bouquets
Chrysal advice
Good alternative
• Liquid flower food mixes instantly in water, so there’s no need to stir the solution.
• Clarity of the vase solution is very important particularly when using glass
containers, so with liquid, this is also instant.
• The slim line stick packs are much easier to handle and open than the traditional
powder sachets. This ease of opening also reduces the risk of accidentally spilling
the contents.
• When flower food is attached to bouquets, the stick pack lies more neatly onto
the packaging, thus not detracting from the overall design.
• Vase life performance is further increased when using liquid flower food versus
powder especially with roses.
• Liquid stick packs use significantly less packaging i.e. ±25% less plastic materials
in their production than the traditional powder sachets.
25. What should be used for “topping up” vase water?
Preferably, top up the vases with the same flower food
as what was originally used. If a specialty flower food has
been used, but now unavailable, use universal flower
food. If the vase was initially full, topping up will generally be needed after about five to seven days.
26. Why is vase life not always a good as expected?
Flowers are a product of nature and we are dealing with natural variety and life.
Especially those flowers that have been cultivated outdoors, can have quite a lot
of individual differences. Of course, that is one of the beautiful things about the
‘flower product’: there is always the element of surprise. Nevertheless, the flower
industry works hard to deliver products that fulfill at least minimum quality
demands. The best proof of those efforts and of the confidence of the ability to
assist flowers in developing naturally, that is, as if they were still growing on the
plant, is the offering of a “vase life guarantee” to the customer.
Codes of Practice (COP)
Not all flower retailers have quality systems built into all links of the distribution,
but these systems are being applied increasingly in order to win or keep the
confidence of the customer. So-called cut flower care instructions (Codes of
Practice) are custom-made for co-operating distribution chains, from grower to
point of sale, both for traditional and modern distribution. These cut flower care
instructions form the main component of the added value that the Chrysal
organization delivers to ‘floriculture’, in the form of its ‘Chrysal Quality Concept’.
Some main causes of disappointing flower development in the vase.
At growers level:
• wrong combination of variety choices for the market
• poor growing conditions (crop protection, climate control, watering, fertilization,
light) both in the greenhouse and in the field
• poor post-harvest conditions and poor or zero post-harvest care
(hygiene, products, water quality, storage conditions, equipment)
• inferior transportation packaging (slack, moisture resistance, too tight,
condensation/Botrytis)
During distribution:
• bad shipping (vehicles, climate control, stacking/stowage, time management)
• shipping suitability of the flower type (duration of transport, conditions,
temperatures)
• faulty handling upon receipt of shipment by wholesaler, distribution centre and
the retail outlets (storage conditions, products, water quality, hygiene)
With the consumer:
• poor care
27. What are the effects of under- and overdosing?
The composition of cut flower food is like a balanced diet for cut flowers. The universal
products are a general diet for all cut flowers and the specialized flower foods are a
diet that is fine-tuned according to the needs of a particular type. Cut flower research
has shown that even within a flower type there can be variations. In practice, though,
these specialized flower foods are not always available everywhere. The ultimate goal is
to imitate the “juice-flowing patterns” of the intact flower.
Over- and underdosing will cause a less than optimum
result. The greater the deviation, the more disappointing
the result will be, sometimes even negative, comparable
to over-feeding and obesity in humans. It is not good for
the general condition and lowers the life expectancy.
Underdosing is most critical and shortens the vase life
the most.
Less than 80% of the recommended dosage can lead to
the following deviations:
• stem discolouration
• delayed flower, leaf, form, colour and scent development
• limp petals
• limp leaf and leaf discolouration
Dosages of more than 150% of recommended amount
can lead to stem discolouration and burnt leaves.
Only tap water
Chrysal Clear 50%: tap water
with 50% of recommended
amount of flower food
Chrysal Clear 100%: tap water
with 100% of the recommended
amount of flower food
28. How effective are home remedies?
5. Inaccurate dosage
All home remedies lack clear instructions regarding accurate dosage and composition.
We can say that most home remedies try to solve some of
the post-harvest problems of cut flowers, but there isn’t one
among them that optimally supports leaf and flower development. Which household products are generally used and in
what areas do they lack in effectiveness?
6. Composition
The composition of nutrients is too small to support the natural development of
flowers and leaves as it would occur on the plant.
Chlorine = aggressive
1. Chlorine
An aggressive product for plant tissues, clothing and human
skin. Dosage must be very precise in order not to damage both
flowers and leaves. Even if applied properly, its effect is very
short-lived, because household chlorine stops working after
half a day, while the cut flowers require support during their
entire vase life.
Soft drink = expensive
7. Effects on the environment
Because none of these products are intended for this use, they have no warning
signs (Chlorine).
8. Costs
Of the above “home remedies”, only soft drinks have any effect at all, but they are
very expensive in usage compared to commercially available cut flower food.
29. How do you remove vase water stains from
clothing and carpets?
2. Copper coins
Copper only affects the vase water. The release of copper from
coins, (few coins still contain any copper these days) is very
slow and therefore not effective.
The consumer has three choices of products for the vase:
Copper coins = no effect
3. Soft drinks
The amount of food supplements in soft drinks is too small to
support natural leaf and flower development as it would occur
on the plant. Any positive effect of this remedy is because of
the sugar content and the pH level.
1. clear flower food
2. non-clear flower food
3. vase cleaning tablets
Water = no sustenance
4. Sugars
They are a good food source for micro-organisms and ensure
quick contamination of the vase water. This remedy is too onesided to be effective for normal leaf and flower development.
Chrysal = excactly right
Chrysal has conducted an extensive testing program with the most common
fabrics and textiles in clothing and carpets. In these tests, it was observed that only
the non-clear vase products (2) leave stains. Spilt vase solutions made up of the
products under 1 and 3 can be removed with water.
What materials were tested?
Fabrics/Carpets
• 100% cotton
• 52% polyester/ 48% cotton
• 50% cotton/ 50% viscose
• 55% linen/45% cotton
• 70% polyester/ 20% viscose/ 10% linen
• 50% cotton/ 35% viscose/ 15% polyester
• 40% viscose/ 30% cotton/ 30% polyester
• 85% cotton/ 15% polyester
• 100% silk
Carpets
• 100% polyamide (nylon)
• 100% wool
How to treat spilt vase water spots from clothing and carpets?
If there are stains, they are generally a shade of orange and are particularly visible
on light coloured carpets. We know of 2 stain treatment methods, which we will
describe below. The first treatment is based on bleaching the dark orange
stain until only a light tint is left that blends in with the carpet.
For bleaching you may use hydrogen peroxide (3%), available at the pharmacy.
However at all times be extremely careful when using hydrogen peroxide,
because you easily get an unwanted for effect: a spot that is too light or even
white! Moisten the stain with some cotton batting.
The second method is recommended by professional carpet cleaners, use
commercial carpet cleaning products, available at carpet cleaners, pharmacies
and building supply shops.These companies recommend thinning the stain
immediately with mineral water before using carpet cleaner. They advise
protecting the stain from direct sunlight until it can be treated.
Note: Consequences of spilling any product on clothing and carpets are always the
responsibility of the consumer. The manufacturer cannot be held responsible for careless use.
30. How do you keep the vase water clean?
Contamination of vase water is caused by the decomposition of the stems and leaves
in the water. If the stems have been damaged and start to decompose, bacteria from
the surroundings (stem, container/vase, air, leaf) can develop and cause the stem to
further decompose. The vase water becomes turbid. Pseudomonas, Bacillus and Enterobacter are the most common bacteria in container/vase water. They may also occur
in the stems where they can cause vascular blockages. Vascular blockage is primarily a
mechanical problem. Both living and dead bacteria can cause these blockages.
Not all flowers, however, are sensitive to bacterial contamination. Aesthetics and
hygiene of the vase water are the main reasons for keeping the container/vase water
clean. Less waste is an important economic reason. Besides this, many large international supermarkets demand that no bacterially contaminated water from the stems
may leak onto the vegetables and fruits in the shopping trolley.
On the stem cuts (“wounds”) of some cut flowers in a vase with only tap water
(e.g. Chrysanthemum, Antirrhinum, Eustoma), fungal threads often appear after a few
days. These are not known to be detrimental to the vase life, but are undesirable for
aesthetic and hygienic reasons.
Advice for keeping vase water clean
Hygiene
• Remove contamination by cutting 5-10 cm off the stems
• Make sure there are no leaves in the vase water
• Always use clean containers and vases
• Keep tools and tables clean
• Avoid damaging the stems
Vase water
• Use tap water with flower food to keep
your flowers in optimum condition
• Top up with water and flower food
• Pay attention to the correct dosage of the flower food
31. Should the stems be cut?
There are 3 main reasons for cutting the stem:
1. After the grower has cut the flower from its mother plant or the roots, the stem
wound immediately begins to heal itself, much like a wound on our skin. The
cut off flowerstem protects itself against infections and drying out through
the cutting wound by sealing it. This means that when cut flowers are put into
a container or vase solution, the waterabsorption is greatly decreased or even
completely stopped, resulting a premature demise of the entire flower.
2. Wounds on the stem bark are an excellent food source for micro-organisms.
Micro-organisms only grow if they have something to feed on in the container
or vase. Large amounts can cause loss of quality in some cut flowers, because
they can partially plug the bottom of the stem. This is one of the main reasons
to cut off a piece of the stem after a ‘dry’ period and it also prevents contamination
of the container or vase.
3. Contaminated and organic materials plug up the cut surface, just like air
bubbles in a dried out stem-end. This also causes the premature wilting of the
cut flowers. By cutting the bottom of the stem (by at least 2-5 cm) these blockages
are removed.
Stems and leaves
of cut flowers
Advice:
If cut flowers have been dry for
more than 30 minutes, cut off a
part of the stem before placing
them in a container or vase.
This applies to all phases of the
flower’s life. Working in a clean
environment, removing contamination and avoiding stem damage all help to prevent waste, save
money and ensure normal flower
development as well as a satisfied
customer!
Only the vessels, cut/opened on the cut surface play
a role in water absorption’
32. Why replace the vase water?
34. What is the best way to cut the stem?
Contamination of vase water is caused by the decomposition of the stems and
leaves in the water. If the stems have been damaged and start to decompose,
bacteria from the surroundings (stem, container/vase, air, leaf) can develop and
cause the stem to further decompose. The vase water becomes turbid.
Cutting a piece off the stem of the flower is essential for its ability to absorb water
and flower food, in order to develop in a natural way. However, cutting also implies
creating a wound, which could become infected. The cleaner the cut, the better
it is for the flower. Blunt knives and cutting tools, and the resulting stem damage
from their use, can lead to an explosive growth of micro-organisms in containers
and vases.
If only tap water is used in the vase, the flower stems start to decompose, and
the vase water and the vascular bundles in the stems will be infected with microorganisms that grow on the organic contamination in a few days, especially in vases
with flowers that bring a lot of contamination with them from the greenhouse or
the field. For aesthetic reasons (turbid and smelly water), replacing the vase water
may be considered.
Using the correct dosage of flower food keeps your flowers in top condition, no
decomposition of stems will occur. Replacing the vase water will not be necessary for the
entire duration of the vase water period. Just top it with water and flower food, that’s it!
33. Is cutting the stem necessary?
If only tap water without flower food is used in the vase, the vase water and the
stems will be contaminated because of the decomposition of the stems. If the
stems are then placed in clean water, this vase water will quickly also become
contaminated. In that case, it is recommended you cut a piece (5-10 cm) off the
stem. If flower food is used, the natural balance is restored and your flowers stay
in optimum condition. The stem remains “clean” and consequently also the vase,
and further cutting the stem should not be necessary. We recommend using the
correct amount of flower food and topping it up later with a flower food solution
without taking the stem out of the vase and cutting it. This keeps disturbance of
balance between vase water and stems to a minimum i.e. reduces the risk of
accidental damage of your flowers.
Cutting at an angle of approximately 45º is best.
Cutting is easiest at this angle and does not require
much force. The wound will be clean and smooth.
Cutting the stem straight flattens the stem too much
and causes much more damage.
Research has shown that when more than 50% of the
stem is plugged up, it is detrimental to the flower’s life.
Water absorption is slowed down too much which
causes the leaves to wilt and the flowers to develop
poorly. The vessels in many flowers vary in length, but
they can be up to 10 cm. The contamination is situated
in the cut open vessels. General advice is to remove 2-5 cm. The aforementioned
information clearly indicates that only cutting off 5-10 cm completely removes all
contamination that may be present.
How large should the cut surface be?
• a short, slanted cut surface is sufficient to open all vessels
• it is another myth that a long, slanted cut surface opens more vessels and improves
water absorption. This dates back to the time when flower food was not available and
water absorption with only tap water in containers and vases was laborious
• a long cut surface shortens the stem and brings the water closer to the flower.
With a Clear flower food, the water absorption is so good that this practice has
become obsolete. Cutting at an angle of about 45 º creates the cleanest cut
surface and least stem damage.
35. Tools for cutting the stems
It is important to cut off a piece (at least 2-5 cm) of the stem if the flowers have
been out of water for about 30 minutes.
The knife or secateurs or other cutting device should always be kept sharp. This
is very important, since blunt blades will crush the flower stems, which will result
in more damaged and leaking cells that stimulate the
micro-organisms growth and resulting loss of vase life.
The knives and secateurs must also be extremely clean.
Dirty tools will infect the cut surface and therefore the
vase water, which negatively affects the flower development. A florist should disinfect his/her tools at least
on a daily basis and ideally sharpen them. The consumer
should clean his/her knife or secateurs before each use.
36. What are the negative effects of stem damage?
Stem scraping
Scraping damages the stem bark, it causes a large stem wound. The stem then
loses its natural protection. Result: a quickly wilting flower, a short vase life, extra
waste for the florist/retailer and a disappointed customer.
• Leaking cells (wounds). Besides the accelerated stem deterioration, there is a
direct effect on the explosive growth of micro-organisms because of leaking cell
moisture. The sugars in this form an excellent meal for micro-organisms.
• Toxic substances. The damaged stems of some flowers can also leak substances
that are toxic to other flowers. This is generally the case with mixed bouquets.
• Turbid and smelly vase water. The accelerated stem deterioration caused by
the enormous destructiveness of the scraping, increases the activity of the
everchanging micro-organism population in the vase water.
Flattening/hammering
In this old myth, it was assumed that flattening the stems would increase water
absorption. This is actually the case, for a very short duration, but the hammering
damages the cells in the stem and stem bark to such an extent that much of the
cell moisture leaks out. For micro-organisms, this provides a veritable feast and
they will use it to multiply in great numbers.
Burning
Burning the stem ends literally kills the stem-part! The background of this technique
is the stopping of the so-called ‘bleeding’ or opening of the woody stem parts,
with the objective of enabling water intake. At first an increase in water intake
may be observed. After a few days, however, this dead stem end begins to rot and
release organic matter from the stem bark into the container/vase water resulting
in a strong decrease in flower development.
“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”. The growers and florist products
for flower care that are available in the floral industry, the so-called post harvest treatment and Professional products, keep the cut surface open and stimulate water intake.
With this type of treatment, the stem tissue stays intact, and the container/vase water
is not burdened with contamination and materials that hamper the development of
the flowers
The following tools are used to treat flower stems:
• Defoliators. These machines are often used in the industry and by the florist.
Old and stiff brushes in these machines are particularly torturous for stems.
Therefore, always use soft bristles and replace them regularly.
• Using a knife for scraping stems. It does not serve any useful purpose and only
leads to loss of quality.
• Thorn removers. This tool is used by florists to remove thorns from stems. This
method also unnecessarily damages the stem and has a negative influence on the
vase life of the flower. Whenever possible, leave the thorns.
Advice
Damage the stem as little as possible. Leave the stem bark and the thorns on the
stem. Stem scrapers and thorn removers belong to the Top 10 list of torture
treatments for flowers. They have a very negative effect on their durability.
37. Why shouldn’t leaves hang down into the vase water?
38. Do all stems contaminate the vase water at the same rate?
Leaves contaminate the vase water, just like stems do. The stem has to be in the
water; the leaf, however serves no purpose in the water, in fact, it is negative!
Therefore, it is recommended to remove the leaves right up to the water level.
The additional positive effect of this is that it decreases the amount of evaporation
because the total leaf surface is decreased.
Vase water containing dissolved nutrients is absorbed through a system of ‘water
pipes’. This system is called the xylem vessels. These vessels are of various sizes and are
situated in bundles in a circle under the stem bark. The xylem vessels have limited
length (2 to 10 cm in roses) and are closed at the top and at the bottom. The water,
holding the essential nutrients for leaf and flower development, moves up through
the xylem vessels and membranes in these walls. This type of water absorption is of
vital importance for the natural development of the cut flower. Blockage in the xylem
vessels, the ‘flower infarct’, is a common problem when flowers are placed in containers
with just tap water. The result is delay in flower development.
All of the contamination, remnants of fertilizer, plant protection products and
micro-organisms travel along with the leaves and contaminate the vase water, the
so-called bio-load of the vase water. In this case, hygiene and prevention of infection
of the vase water provide the best contribution to a long vase life and vase water
that is not smelly. That is why removing the leaves and the leaf remnants that
would otherwise end up in the vase water is recommended.
Advice:
• Hygiene and preventing infection of the vase water is the best contribution to a long
vase life and vase water that is not smelly, so remove all the leaves from the vase water.
• Remove thorns carefully, if you have to do it at all!
Not all cut flowers contaminate the vase water to the same degree. Some types
are more contaminating than others. The table on this page shows introduction
of ‘contaminating’ and clean flower stems.
The degree of contamination is partly dependent upon the stem area and the
structure of the stem bark.
• Woody (e.g. Rosa)
• Hairy (e.g. Gerbera)
• Smooth (e.g. Tulipa)
• Soft (e.g. Matthiola)
• Waxy (e.g. Dianthus)
Contaminating flowers
Aconitum
Antirrhinum
Chrysanthemum
Delphinium
Gerbera
Helianthus
Matthiola
Mixed bouquets
Physostegia
Wildflowers (general)
Greens and branches
Remove leaves from the vase water
Leaves contaminate the vase water
Clean flowers
Dianthus (carnation)
Eustoma
Freesia
Gladiolus
Iris
Lilium
Nerine
Rosa
Tulipa
Micro-organisms attach themselves to a hairy or soft stem, such as Gerbera and
Matthiola. This causes increased and more rapid growth of micro-organisms in vase
solutions with flowers that have these types of stems, as compared to vase water of
tulips, for example. Avoid mixing the water of one container with that of another as
much as possible and never add old water to a container with fresh water.
phenomenon. Good packaging and an enclosed refrigeration unit can prevent
drying out. Unfortunately, the only thing to do with a bent-neck flower is to
throw it out.
39. What is bent-neck and what causes it?
Premature harvesting is the core problem of bent-neck in Rosa. The stem right
under the bud is not strong enough to carry the weight of the growing bud/flower.
When the stem bends in this way, the vascular bundles are pinched shut and the
flower’s water supply is cut off. The leaves, on the other hand, remain healthy!
This problem has only been observed in Rosa.
Premature harvesting also makes the tissue more sensitive to lack of water.
Research has shown that flowers harvested at a more mature stage will not wilt
as quickly as flowers that were harvested prematurely. If loss of moisture due
to evaporation is insufficiently compensated for by water absorption, the stem
will bend at the most vulnerable/softest and least woody point, especially when
vascular blockage also plays a role. Another reason often mentioned is a shortage
of lime during the Rosa’s growth.
The degree of susceptibility to bent-neck varies among cultivars. Excessive
artificial lengthening of daylight hours in the greenhouse, during winter months,
can cause the stomata to lose their ability to close. Evaporation will then continue
at a rapid pace, particularly at high temperatures in the stores and at the home of
the customer.
Is bent-neck an irreversible condition?
Yes, once the flower has been prematurely harvested nothing can be done to
undo this, although there are certain determining factors in the bent-neck
Bent-neck is primarily the result of premature harvesting. Secondary causes can be lack of hygiene, inappropriate packing
and lack of climate control along the distribution chain
Advice:
• harvest the roses at the apporpriate level of maturity
• cut at least 5 cm off the stem to remove blockages
• use post harvest products at the grower level, immediately upon harvest.
Using Chrysal Professional at the point of sale and supplying the customer
with flower food will feed and strengthen the flower and decrease the chances
of manifesting bent-neck.
40. What causes stem discolouration?
41. What causes leaf burn?
Stem discolouration has a number of causes that may or may not be negative. Of
course, no amount of stem discolouration looks attractive in a glass vase. In addition,
customers will deem discoloured flowers old. The causes for stem discolouration are:
Leaf burning is a complex phenomenon and is the result of burst leaf cells. A significant
cause of rupturing of cell walls is an excessive osmotic effect of the cell content and
therefore an excessively strong water influx. The leaf finally discolours from grey to
brown and feels dry and crunchy to the touch. Extraneous substances from other
flowers/branches in the vase may also contribute to the leaf burn (leaf necrosis).
Low pH
The optimum pH level of the vase water is between pH 4 and 5. If soft water is used,
it is okay for the pH level to go down to under 4 pH in combination with container/
vase products. With soft stem, this may lead to stem discolouration. This type of
discolouration has no effect on the vase life because the tissue stays intact.
Chlorine stems on Gerbera
Chlorine is often added to the container/vase water of Gerbera. Dosage for this
product that is very aggressive to plant tissues must be extremely accurate.
Overdosing causes irrevocably brown stems. This discolouration and deterioration
of the stem tissue due to chlorine does have a negative effect on the vase life.
Surfactant
Surfactants are often used to increase water absorption. These products dissolve the
wax layer on the stems, for example on Dianthus. This does not affect durability.
Micro-organisms
Explosive micro-organism growth, such as in containers and vases with a lot of cut
flowers or especially with damaged flowers, branches and mixed bouquets, will
cause discolouration of soft stems.
Advice
• hygiene: prevent the growth of
micro-organisms
• do not use aggressive vase products
like chlorine
• cut 5-10 cm off the stem
• scrub and wash containers and vases
before and after use
Stem discolouration due to the use of chlorine
Leaf burning in Bouvardia
Leaf burning in Chrysant
Possible causes of post-harvest leaf-burning are:
• Excessively long assimilation lighting (extended daylight hours, artificial lighting
in the green house) in winter and/or for flower supply for special holidays. The
stomata lose the ability to close. The flower’s moisture content continues to
evaporate and the flower sucks up too much vase water if flower food has been
added. However, without flower food the flower often does get enough water.
• Weak tissue resulting from lack of light during the last phase of growth, makes
the flower sensitive to flower food.
• Overdose of flower food from an average of 150% of the pre- scribed amount.
• “Toxic” metal ions in the vase water, such as Zinc, Chlorine, Fluoride and Iron
(from well water)
• Use of vase cleaning products, such as chlorine, washing-up liquid and cleansing tablets.
• Slime or other secretions from other flowers/branches in a mixed bouquet in
container or vase (for example Narcissus slime)
42. What causes leaf yellowing?
43. What is ethylene?
Leaf yellowing is a sign of insufficient natural plant growth hormones,
regulating the production of leaf green in the leaf. Before being cut, the
mother plant took care of the production of these hormones. After cutting
there is a shortage of these substances due to interrupted “juice flow” from
the mother plant.
Dropping of buds, blooms and leaves usually happens as a means to protect
plant and trees from drying out. For cut flowers and potted plants this dropping
of buds, blooms and leaves is often the result of over-production of the growth
hormone ethylene. Ethylene is the only known gaseous, naturally occurring plant
growth hormone. Ethylene gas regulates the ripening/ageing of cut flowers,
potted plants, fruits and vegetable fruits. Ethylene gas is therefore purposely used
to promote the ripening of fruit and the blooming of potted plants.
The post-harvest products used by the grower, trader and florist/retailer must
ensure that these shortages are counteracted in order to prevent leaf yellowing.
The nutrients in the various post-harvest products that are used in all phases
of the distribution make up for this loss.
Flowers that are susceptible
to leaf yellowing:
• Alstroemeria
• Erynigum
• Euphorbia fulgens
• Helianthus
• Lilium
• Mathiola
• Solidaster
• Tulipa
There are basically two sources of ethylene:
• The flower’s own production. As a reaction to being cut off from the plant, the
normal ageing process which is taken care of by ethylene production is increased
in order to go through all developmental stages more quickly before the flower
wilts. After all, the flower’s job is to attract insects in order to be fertilized and in
this way ensure the continuation of the species.
• Ethylene sources outside of the flower, such as exhaust fumes, industrial smoke,
tobacco smoke, vegetable fruits (tomatoes), fruit and micro-organisms. These
are some of the ethylene sources that pollute the atmosphere with ethylene. This
ethylene is absorbed by the flower and increases the internally produced
ethylene levels already present, which causes the flower to wilt more quickly than
if it only had to cope with its own internal production of the substance.
Only tap water in the vase
Ethylene-sensitive flowers and potted plants that tend to drop buds, blooms and
leaves and/or premature wilting (‘shrinking’) of the flowers:
Aconitum
Agapanthus
Alstroemeria
Antirrhinum
Asclepias
Bouvardia
Cattleya
Chelone
Chrysal post-harvest products
Delphinium
Dendrobium
Dianthus
Euphorbia
Freesia
Gypsophila
Iris
Kniphoffia
Lathyrus
Lilium (Asiatic)
Paphilopedium
Phalaenopsis
Phlox
Physostegia
Tritelaria
Many flowering plants
Because of the ethylene, the ripening/ageing process of flowers that are sensitive to
this growth hormone is accelerated. The life expectation of f.e. Dianthus (carnation),
a very ethylene-sensitive flower, for example, is 3-4 weeks after harvest. Exposure to
ethylene production can decrease this flower’s life expectation to 1 week. Since the
distribution and sale of cutflowers generally takes at least a week, no vase life will be
left for the consumer.
Negative effects of ethylene
• dropping of buds, flowers and leaves (molting)
• accelerated ripening/ageing (shrinking)
• leaf yellowing, curved growth (horizontal shipping)
44. What can we do to prevent ethylene damage?
Developmental stages, once reached, cannot be reversed. The
ripening/ageing process can only be returned to its natural level by
post-harvest treatments. The sooner this post-harvest treatment
is applied, the better the ultimate vase life will be. Growers’
treatment products which have a base of silver thiosulfate/STS
(Chrysal AVB) or 1 MCP (Chrysal Ethylene Buster), protect against
the above-mentioned negative effects of increased ethylene
production (internal and external). Correctly applied treatments
by the grower protect the flower for the rest of its lifespan.
Post-harvest treatments applied by the flower professionals and
flower food applied by the consumer support the normal development of the flower and guarantee a vase life that is just like the
flower development on the plant.
45. Should thorns be removed or left on?
Every wound on the stem of Rosa leads to major vase contamination and
deterioration of the stem bark, and it can even lead to bent-neck. Rosa with thorns
therefore last longer in the vase than Rosa without thorns. When a flower food is
added to the vase water, the differences disappear and the flowers last just as long.
However, the vase water of Rosa without thorns does remain turbid.
Only tap water on the vase
Chrysal AVB, anti-ethylene treatment
The only excuse for removing thorns is to make arranging easier and to protect the
hands if no gloves are used. If you have to, remove the thorns with as little damage
to the tissue as possible. The consumer can best remove them by breaking them
off by hand, pushing them aside. All other methods of using knives and thorn
removers are harmful to the flower and are real “vase life killers”.
46. What is Botrytis?
When discussing causes of loss of quality, Botrytis cinerea (grey mould) is often
named as the main culprit. Botrytis and Rosa are then mentioned in one breath.
Other flowers, such as Chrysanthemum, Gerbera and Lisianthus are also very
attractive to the Botrytis fungi. In addition, place of origin, season, weather conditions
and climate control play an important role in the appearance and development of
Botrytis. The fungus thrives on both living and dead plant materials. Starting as a
little while speck (‘pock’) on the flower petals, it spreads right to the bottom of the
flower. It gradually changes its colour to brown and finally all the petals fall off.
Infection and spreading
The infection starts with miniscule little mould spores, spread through the air. In
order to move, these spores need moisture. Condensation on the bud/flower and
packaging is often enough for the Botrytis spores to quickly develop. Once shifted
from the ‘pock stage’ into brown spots, the process is irreversible. The infected
flower petals are often removed by hand. This, however, does not guarantee that
the fungal infection has not already damaged the rest of the petals. Throwing the
flower away then becomes the only remedy to prevent further infection.
The key to the appearance of Botrytis is prevention of infection on the one hand,
and prevention of germination of the spores, on the other. Preventing condensation
on the flower buds/blooms is imperative. Condensation due to big temperature
changes (continuous opening of the cold store doors), spraying the flowers,
condensation in closed/tight packing and the flowers’ staying wet for extended
periods, are all conditions that must be avoided. A somewhat higher, but even
temperature is better than large fluctuations. Only then can a possible infection
dry up and there will be no loss of quality. At lower temperatures, the Botrytis
development is slower than at 20°C, that is why Botrytis is often only clearly visible
after a cooled distribution process.
Since the infection started in an earlier phase of the distribution chain and the
spores may already be germinated, the florist and the consumer, unfortunately,
can’t do anything except throw out infected flowers to prevent further spreading
of the disease. Except to check the presence of the so-called ‘pocks’ at the time of
purchase. In addition it is a good idea to pull the packaging materials down after
delivery and during storage in the cold store in order to allow the flowers
“to breath” and air circulation to be at its optimum.
Botrytis, grey mould, waste factor number 1 in Rosa
To avoid infection, it is important to:
• remove dead plant material from greenhouses, sorting areas, work rooms, dis
plays and cold stores as much as possible
• remember that hygiene plays an important role in preventing Botrytis
• remove infected plant material immediately from batches
• clean and disinfect tables, knives and cutting tools at least on a daily basis
• If cold store door must be opened and closed often, set the temperature at 10°C
during the day and at 5°C at night
• pull down the packaging materials in the florist’s cold store or completely remove them
• always pay attention to hygiene and regularly disinfect the walls and floors
Chrysal cut flower food
detrimental to your health?
Chrysal flower foods contain nutrients, primarily sugars, which will sweeten
coffee and tea and may therefore seem like an attractive supplement. Legally,
flower foods do not qualify as foodstuffs and they are not meant for human
consumption. Consumption of Chrysal flower food should not cause any health
problems, considering its composition. However, we do not recommend this.
Medical advice
If you are worried about having ingested Chrysal accidentally, you can always
get a medical opinion from your family doctor. Physicians and other medical
professionals have access to databanks which contain information about a
wide range of products that humans may encounter, and that are required to
decide on the right medical treatment.
48. Can flower food cause skin irritations?
Everything else
Almost any product can cause skin irritation. Although Chrysal products are not
classified as a cause of irritation, there may be circumstances where skin irritation
occurs, for example if someone is repeatedly subjected to highly concentrated
solutions. One of the most obvious recommendations for preventing skin irritation is
to wear protective gloves while working with flowers, particularly if you know you
have sensitive skin. This will keep the hands dry, which is important, because wet
and/or wounded hands are more susceptible to skin irritations.
Medical advice
If you are worried about using Chrysal and possible skin irritation, you can seek the
advice of you physician. Physicians and other medical professionals have access to
databanks which contain information about a wide range of products that humans
may encounter, and that are required to decide on the right medical treatment.
49. Why do dosing pumps get cloggged and smell
bad in the morning?
Florists and supermarkets use flower care products, such Chrysal Professional
Clear, to promote the water absorption of flowers. If a non-clear (turbid solution
with sediments) product is mixed with water, a sediment appears in some dosage
pumps in which some mixture is left. Particularly if these dosage pumps have not
been used for a day or longer, like at the weekend, an anaerobic fermentation
process begins in this standing mixture in the closed dosage pump. A rotten-egg
odour could be created, which is released with the first use in the morning until
the pump has been thoroughly rinsed.
How can this plugging be prevented?
• use products that have the addition
“Clear” on the label
• regularly clean the dosage pumps, at
least once a month and in case of hard
water and intensive use, every week.
Use a product for this that dissolves
lime deposits and whose leftover solutions in the dosage pump do not harm
flowers, for example Chrysal Cleaner.
• a solution with Chrysal Cleaner may
also be used for cleaning containers and
vases. If this solution is prepared in the
dosage pump, this will clean out the
dosage pump at the same time.
• use hoses that are made of acidresistant materials (e.g. EPDM)
47. Is the consumption of
50. Is cut flower food harmful for the environment?
In general safety precautions and danger symbols must be printed on the label of any
product that contains certain ingredients that exceed pre-determined quantities.
For Chrysal cut flower foods no such safety precautions and danger symbols apply.
However “Keep out of reach of children” is printed on the label as a precaution,
though not obligatory. This minimum type of labelling is sufficient for all nontoxic non-food products. No other labelling is required for Chrysal cut flower food
pouches. This means that pouring the left-over vase water down the drain is not
a problem. The drainage system is generally connected to water treatment plants
which will purify this discarded water.
General advice
Never throw left-over water of any kind into surface water as this will always
disturb the natural balance of these waters.
51. How to remove pollen stains from clothing?
There is one big problem with Lilium and that is its pollen on the far reaching
stamens, which can easily be accidentally knocked off onto clothing.
A simple way to prevent getting pollen on your clothes is to remove the anthers
(tips of the stamens) as soon as you get the flowers home. Keep repeating this
with every bud that opens or cut off the stamens.
What methods are there to remove pollen from clothing?
• Do not brush or rub with your hand! Human skin contains oils that will help
attach the pollen to the fibres.
• Let the pollen dry and remove it with a soft brush.
• Take a piece of tape and press this onto the pollen. The pollen will adhere to it
and can then be removed.
• Use a vacuum cleaner to remove the pollen from the clothing.
• If some pollen stains are stubborn, hang the garment in the sun. The stain and
the pollen in it will dry up and can then be removed by one of the abovementioned methods.
At the request of a hospital, an independent study of TNO * was conducted to
confirm these claims. On the basis of its results, the hospital concluded that
flowers in “Chrysal water” are acceptable in hospital wards and flowers in just tap
water are not. A bonus for hospital staff is that “Chrysal water” only needs to be
topped up and that the vases have very little or no contamination when the
flowers are finished blooming.
52. Should hospitals ban flowers from the wards?
* TNO: independent Dutch research institute
Patients are always happy to receive a beautiful bouquet of flowers. It cheers them
up and greatly improves the atmosphere in the room. Research has shown that
patients in a green and blooming environment feel better mentally, which helps
them to get better more quickly.
Are there risks related to having a bunch of flowers in a hospital ward?
Dirty, turbid vases contain pathogens which also occur on wounds of the human
skin. Infection of those wounds is therefore possible. It is therefore very important
to thoroughly clean vases before and after use. Keep the vase water clean
(bacteria-free) and throw out the old vase water immediately. Hospital staff must
also disinfect and thoroughly clean their hands. Wearing gloves is recommended
when cleaning flower vases.
What can Chrysal do to decrease the risk of infection?
The nutrients and pH regulators in Chrysal Clear flower food effectively
restore the balance of the flower and return the resistance to cell and stem
deterioration back to the natural level, thus guaranteeing a longer vase life of
the flower. The accelerated ageing caused by the cutting is slowed down. The
side effect is that the vase water is not taxed with all the internal and external
decomposition products of the stem, as in vases with only tap water, and consequently, very few or no pathogens at all can grow.
The Chrysal Code of Practice
Introduction
Although there are many factors that can influence the success and profitability of a
florist shop, there are two key factors which greatly affect these:
• The artistic talents of the florist.
• A structured business approach to purchasing, care and sales, as summarized in the
following Codes of Practice:
1. Purchasing Flowers
• Buy flowers that are not too immature and undeveloped. Immature flowers will not
open consistently or with pale colors, or may not even open at all. Bouquets with
inconsistent maturity of flowers will be inferior in quality. Flowers that are too immature are also much more prone to dehydration. In Rosa especially, this can quickly
cause bent neck.
• In order to guarantee the customer a “vase life”, the florist must ensure that the
The Code
of Practice
flowers he/she has purchased are of such a quality that they will reach the total
number of days of the sales period plus the guaranteed vase life.
• Check whether the wholesaler supplies flowers that received optimal post harvest
treatment at the grower and the wholesaler. The difference between flowers with or
without optimal post harvest treatment is significant for most cut flowers and will
determine whether “vase life” guarantee can be given to the consumer.
2. Hygiene
• Ensure that all work areas, tables, walls, knives, pruning shears and cold store are
cleaned frequently to prevent contamination of the flowers and spreading of diseases.
• Remove dead plant material from the tables, floors and cold store, as these can
be a source of Botrytis infection.
• All containers and vases must be cleansed thoroughly after each use, using the
appropriate cleaner, such as Chrysal Cleaner, before they are either used again or
stored (upside down). Chrysal Cleaner is very effective and will not damage flowers
if residues are left in the container or vase. Chlorine can be very damaging to certain
flowers, and to all flowers if too concentrated. It also causes bleach spots on clothing
and carpets, is corrosive to metal and is irritating to the skin.
Glass, plastics or stainless steel are the most suitable material for use as flower containers/vases.
• Don’t forget to run Chrysal Cleaner through the Dosing Unit
on a regular basis, once every 2 weeks, for example while
preparing a solution. The Cleaner in the Dosing Unit
decalcifies and degreases the Dosing Unit.
4. Care/conditioning of cut flowers
• It is important to allow flowers that were delivered dry several hours in a cool spot to
rehydrate and absorb a solution of water and flower food product, before placing them
in the “warm” display area.
3. Flower storage
• When flowers are stored for a short period (maximum
several days) in a cold store, which is constantly being opened
and closed, choose a temperature setting of between
5°C and 10°C and a relatively high humidity of 80-90%.
• Limit opening of the door to a minimum, because this will
cause temperature variations. This in turn causes
condensation on the packaging and increases the risk of
Botrytis disease developing and spreading.
• Using a sharp knife, cut off a portion of the stem (5 - 10 cm) and remove the leaves
that would end up below the water line.
• Damaged stem tissue significantly contaminates the container water directly and
indirectly.
• Do not unnecessarily remove thorns. The “wounds” created in this way will contaminate
the container and vase water.
• If a mechanical defoliator is used, the condition of the brushes must be inspected on a
regular basis. Worn brushes or brushes that are too stiff can cause a lot of stem damage.
• Place flowers in a container of water with Chrysal Clear professional 2, liquid or a T-Bag.
• Disinfect the wall and floors of the cold store on a regular basis.
These products ensure a healthy balance for the flower, both in the container/vase
• Avoid storing flowers in a cold store that also contains a lot
water and in the flower itself.
of ethylene-producing products, such as fruit and tomatoes, in
order to prevent rapid ageing.
• Store flowers that are sensitive to low temperatures, such as a
number of varieties of Orchideae, Euphorbia fulgens or
Anthurium at a temperature of 12°C - 15°C.
• In order to encourage a healthy air circulation in the cold store,
• Chrysal Clear Professional 2 contains 70% less flower food supplement compared to
a universal flower food sachet. This provides sufficient food for the flower during the
distribution and sale stages. This small dosage of flower food prevents the flower from
being over-stimulated and opening too soon.
• Chrysal Clear Professional 2 decreases flower-waste, labour and water consumption.
Research among florists and supermarkets in Germany, Switzerland and the Netherlands
and therefore a quicker cooling, or maintaining the
has shown that each Euro invested has a return of 15 times, by using the above-
temperature in boxes that are already cooled, an open space
mentioned guidelines.
must be kept between the individual boxes and between the
• Always use fresh cold tap water for flowers in containers and vases.
boxes and the walls. The calculated cooling capacity and the
• Do not mix old vase water with fresh vase water.
installed cold store and fans must be capable of ensuring this
• Accurate dosage is important for the flower. A dose that is too high is money wasted
desired air circulation and cooling.
• Use a plastic liner in containers that are made of unprotected
metal, such as zinc. Oxidation symptoms may occur as a result
of contact with acidic flower food solutions and materials such as
zinc and iron will appear which are damaging to flowers.
and not enough flower food product has a minimal effect, no effect at all, or even a
negative effect.
• The best dosage is obtained with a dosage pump. Chrysal supplies the Chrysal
Dosage Pump. It is powered by water pressure.
• Chrysal offers the user of Chrysal Professional a lease contract
flower food supplement for optimal flower development of flowers arranged in floral foam.
for a Chrysal dosage pump. This contract includes the use of
• Always provide a sachet of Chrysal Clear universal or special flower food with
the pump, a new or revised pump every 2 years and a replace-
each bouquet sold and do not forget the care instructions. It slows down the
ment pump within 48 hours in the event of a malfunction.
accelerated ageing caused by the cutting, and the flower can then develop
• For more information: Chrysal International BV, P.O. box 5300,
according to the natural way of an intact plant. The vase water is then not
1410 AH Naarden, Holland. Phone +31 35 6955888 or
contaminated with smelly, decomposition products of the stem, as in vases where
fax +31 35 6955844. [email protected], www.chrysal.com
only tap water is used.
• A sachet of flower food for half a litre is only enough for very small bouquets.
5. Sales Display
• Arrange flowers by colour, this makes it easier for the
customer to choose.
• Put enough water in the containers/vases. Flowers do not
need to be “up to their necks” in vase water.
Most bouquets require a larger vase of more than 1 litre. Always pay attention to the
size of the bouquet and estimate the corresponding vase size. Adjust the number of
pouches to be supplied, or sell a bottle of Chrysal liquid.
• Powder and liquid Chrysal products may be mixed without any problems.
• In order to reach the maximum natural bloom, colour and scent of bulb
• Prevent draught, heat and direct sunlight on the flowers.
flowers, such as Tulipa (tulips), Iris, Anemone and Freesia, use the specially formulated
• Use Chrysal Clear Professional 2 in containers/vases to be
flower food Chrysal Clear bulb-flower food.
sold, as well as in the display containers.
• Never mix old vase water with fresh vase water and never
• To keep the leaves of Lilium, Alstroemeria and Matthiola green, there is Chrysal
Clear Lilium & Alstroemeria. This product is added even by growers, to allow their cut
move flowers from one vase to another vase with other
flowers to be optimally cared for by the florist. The same concept is also known for
flowers.
Syringa, Bouvardia and Mimosa, among others. These treatments must be continued
• Aim for FIFO (first in first out), to prevent long storage
times. Flowers do not improve in the cold store.
• Remove flowers that have finished blooming ; they increase
the risk of becoming the source of a Botrytis infection.
• Clean the display area daily, if possible, to prevent contamination of the containers and vases.
by the consumer for optimum bloom results.
• Chrysal Clear Rose Food is specially developed for roses. The development of the
flower and the sturdiness of the flower and leaf are brought even closer to the natural
state of the intact plant.
• Although many florists may view flower food as a “give-away” article, it would be
unwise not to include its cost in the retail price calculation. The few extra pennies are
more than compensated for by customer satisfaction and the opportunity to offer a
6. Point of Sale
• Floral foam should be soaked in Chrysal Clear Professional 3.
Allow the foam to soak it up slowly. Do not force this process,
as this can cause air pockets to form within the foam.
Chrysal Clear Professional 3 is the liquid or powder form of
the Chrysal Clear universal, in bulk. It contains the complete
“vase life guarantee” concept.
• Finally, always remind the customer to cut off a piece of the stem (5 - 10 cm) and
to use the flower food.
Keywords
A
Alkalinity
B
Bacterial contamination
Bent-neck
Binding material
Botrytis
Burning stem end
C
Carpets
Ceramics
Chlorine
Clean flowers
Cleaner
Clothing
Code of practice (COP)
Conductivity
Consumption
Containers
Contaminating flowers
Contamination
Copper coins
Crystal
Cut surface
Cutting
Cutting device
Cutting stage
D
Decomposition
Defoliators
Distribution time
Dosing
Dosing pumps
Draughts
E
Elastic band
Environment
Ethylene
Evaporation
20
30
3, 39
17
46
36
29
12
28, 40, 41
38
10
29, 51
26
20
47
10, 15, 16
38
30, 32, 33, 38
16, 28
12, 13
34
31, 33 - 35
35
4
30, 32, 33
36
1
27
27, 49
7
17
50
43, 44
6
F
Flattening stem end
Floral wire
Flower food
G
Geotropism
Gerbera
Glass
Grey mould
Growing conditions
H
Hammering
Health
Heater
Home remedies
Hospitals
Hot water
Hygiene
I
Ice water
Immature
Inaccurate dosage
Ingredient
K
Knife
L
Labeling
Leaf burn
Leaf necrosis
Leaf yellowing
Leaves
Lilium
Limp flower petal
Liquid flower food
Liquid sticks
Low pH
Luke warm water
M
Maturity
36
17
21 - 25
3
17, 40
12
46
1
36
47
6
28
52
18
1, 30
18
4
28
22
35
50
41
41
3, 42
37, 41, 42
51
3
24
24
40
18
4
Medical advice
Metal wire
Metals
Micro-organism
Mixed bouquet
Mould spores
N
Narcissus
Nutrient balance
O
Opening stage
Overdosing
P
Packaging
pH value
Photosynthesis
Plant growth regulator (PGR)
Plastic liners
Pollen stains
Powder flower food
Premature harvesting
R
Raffia
Registration
Remove stains
Replace vase water
Rinse
Ripeness
Rope
Rosa
S
Scum
Secateurs
Skin irritation
Slime
Soft drinks
Specialized flower food
Specialties
Stains
47, 48
17
12
40
5, 9, 23
46
9
3
4
27, 41
8
20
6
3
12
51
24
39
17
50
29
32
14
5
17
39
13
35
48
9, 41
28
23
23
29
Stem damage
Stem discolouration
Stem elongation
Stem scraping
Stems
Stick packs
Storing vases
Sugars
Sunlight
Surfactant
T
Tap water
Textiles
Thorn removers
Thorns
Tools
Topping up
Toxic Turbid water
Twine
U
Underdosing
V
Vase life
Vase size / content
Vase water
Vases
W
Water balance
Water hardness
Water quality
Water temperature
Water type
X
Xylem vessels
Z
Zinc
36
40
3
36
31, 38
24
15
28
6
40
18, 19
29
36
45
34, 35
25
12,16, 17, 40
30, 32
17
27
1, 26
11
18 - 20, 30, 32
33, 37, 38
10 - 16
3
20
19
18
19
38
16