the article in - Palm Beach Motor Yachts

Chefs On Board
Ocean Room’s Raita
Noda, Executive Chef
and master blender of
the Japanese inspired
culinary creations that
are his signature style.
Facing the challenge
of mixing up his
gastronomic delights
aboard Palm Beach
Motor yachts finest 65
foot classic.
Fire&Ice
126 | ocean
Classic on the surface but cutting-edge beneath its gleaming woodwork, a Palm Beach 65
is the perfect yacht on which to enjoy the creations of Ocean Room’s Raita Noda, a chef
who believes traditional and contemporary tastes are best enjoyed together.
Words & Photography Sam Tinson
R
aita Noda hasn’t even started cooking yet, and already our meal
looks set to be a memorable one. The Executive Chef of Sydney’s
Ocean Room restaurant has turned up for his day aboard Duchess,
a stunning Palm Beach 65 foot motor yacht, packing some heavy-duty
gear. Among the pile of exotic food and cooking equipment stacked on the
jetty at RMYC Broken Bay is a four-foot-long earthenware charcoal grill,
several traditional hibachi (ceramic ‘fire bowls’ decorated with Japanese
symbols), a box of seriously intimidating meat knives, a bamboo rice pot,
a bag of ice and – one of the less traditional tools of the Japanese kitchen
– a blow torch. I also spy a dish filled with enough wasabi paste to keep
a branch of Waggamama’s in business for a month. Fire, ice, sharp blades
and hot spices; clearly our tastebuds are in for an entertaining voyage.
Raita’s offbeat approach to traditional Japanese cuisine is well known to
regular visitors to Ocean Room, where his signature dishes such as ‘Ocean’s
Eleven’, a collection of 11 sashimi shots with wasabi prawns, have been
causing a stir since he took over the restaurant’s kitchens five years ago.
Today his unique methods – a crafty blend of age-old techniques learned
in his native Tokyo and modern skills picked up during his years cooking
in Sydney’s finest Japanese eateries – are being taken to sea. Luckily the
Duchess is a spacious boat, and soon Raita and his assistant chef, Yukio
‘Mori’ Moriyama have recreated a little corner of Japan in the galley area.
Our skipper for the day is Mark Richards, founder and MD of Palm
Beach Motor Yachts, builder of Duchess and (in his spare time) winner of
four consecutive Rolex Sydney Hobarts on Wild Oats XI. Mark is eyeing
Raita’s blowtorch nervously; Duchess is on loan from her new owner Bob
Oatley, who is particularly fond of the boat’s fine Burmese teak woodwork.
Raita promises to be careful with his aim.
We cast off and head out into Pittwater, Mark guiding Duchess through
ocean | 127
Chefs On Board
The classic lines and gleaming, handcrafted timberwork aboard the Palm Beach 65 belie its leading edge marine technology and luxurious 21st century comforts.
Possibly the most beautiful motor yacht currently on the water, she is also a revolutionary design blending the very best of traditional and contemporary thinking
in styling, design and performance.
the crowded marina with ease thanks to the thrusters. One of Oatley’s
the wood is Burmese teak, and we’ve developed some really nice finishes
demands for the boat was that it must be easy to manage, and Mark
over the years that no-one else uses. That’s a trademark for us. But don’t be
delivered; the Palm Beach 65 is designed to be self-skippered, making
fooled by the heritage look – the hull’s composite, and the technology on
them the perfect choice for a hassle-free day out on the water in comfort.
board is the most advanced you’ll get in a production powerboat.”
“No crew necessary!” says Mark, throttling up Duchess’ refined twin
Unsurprisingly Mark already has an extensive back order list for the PB
700hp Yanmar diesel engines. “Bob likes to drive his own boat, and we’ve
65, with new customers to include Commodore of the CYCA Matt Allen
designed our 65’ to be easily handled by one or two people. It’s the perfect
and Dick Wolf, producer of the hit TV series Law & Order. This yacht
size. A bigger boat than this would have crew
might hark back to yesteryear, but good
quarters, but a lot of our customers want to
craftsmanship never goes out of style.
self skipper and this is perfect for them.”
That maxim applies in the kitchen
“Like the boat it’s served
The 65 is currently Mark’s largest model
too, and Raita Noba is just the person to
(bigger designs are in the pipeline) and
demonstrate it. Once we’ve reached our
on, our meal will be a finely
ease of handling is just part of its appeal.
destination (a secluded mooring hidden in
nuanced combination of old
In these days of ever larger and more
one of Pittwater’s myriad forested coves)
expensively appointed motor yachts it’s a
Raita takes us through the menu. Like the
and new; each course is twotough ask finding a vessel that stands out in
boat it’s served on, our meal will be a finely
fold, featuring a single dish
a crowd. Mark’s solution was simple; he set
nuanced combination of old and new;
prepared in both traditional
out to build the most beautiful motor yacht
each course is two-fold, featuring a single
on the water.
dish prepared in both traditional and
and modern variations.”
One glance at Duchess is enough to tell
modern variations. It’s a typically avantyou he succeeded. She is a stunning looking
garde approach from this endlessly creative
vessel, her low-slung superstructure and
young chef.
elliptical portholes evoking the classic wooden designs of the 1950s and
The first course is a Japanese seafood favourite; seared Blue Fin tuna
‘60s. With her hull finished in metallic eggshell blue she’s a real headsashimi. For the traditional version Raita prepares the fish with chopped
turner, and it’s impossible not to emit a wistful sigh when you see her for
chives, chilli, red daikon radish and baby shiso leaves on a bed of crushed
the first time.
ice. It’s served with an authentic Japanese ponzu dipping sauce, and
Palm Beach yachts are often described as the maritime equivalent of
tastes exquisite; fresh and citrusy, with the delicious, fatty tuna (the finest
Bentley motorcars, and the comparison is an apt one. Handcrafted with
available at $250 per kilo) melting in the mouth.
the finest materials, finished with painstaking attention to detail (even
Raita’s modern take on the dish he calls ‘two temperatures’; this is
Duchess’ ignition keys have polished teak fobs) and customised to the
where the ice and the blowtorch come in. This time the tuna is cut into
exact specifications of the owner, Mark’s creations have all the hallmarks
a juicy slab, and after taking his mini flame-thrower to it (with Mark
of the famous ‘Flying B’.
keeping a watchful eye on the woodwork) Raita plunges half the chunk
“This is a signature look for our company,” Mark says. “We’ve considered
into ice, halting the cooking process midway through. The remaining half
modernising the design a bit, but then you just end up looking like
remains hot. Served with accompanying fresh garnishes and topped with
everyone else. The retro look has never gone out of style, it’s timeless. All
two different types of rock salt, it’s a dish that has your tastebuds turning
128 | ocean
ocean | 129
130 | ocean
Chefs On Board
Could there be a more sensational setting for such a culinary experience than aboard the Pam Beach 65, swinging casually at anchor, as our senses are indulged in
Chef Raita Noda’s sublime and seductive Japanese-inspired menu of exotic seafood and the finest wagyu grills, direct from the charcoals on the beach?
of jalapeno chilli, soy, lemon juice and grape seed oil, the tender Wagyu
somersaults. Divine.
is a big hit. Complimenting it are two quite different reds; a Wild Oats
Great cuisine demands great wine, and aboard a boat owned by the
Tempranillo 2008 and a Robert Oatley Cabernet Merlot 2007. The former,
Oatley family that was never going to be a problem. Our sashimi is
a Spanish variety is served slightly chilled, making it a great summer red.
accompanied by a James Oatley Tic Tok Pinot Gris 2009, a brand new
But it’s the bigger cabernet that wins the day, being perfectly balanced
release that provides just the right foil for the rich, slightly sweet flavour
with the richness of the beef.
of the tuna. Slightly pink in colour like the fish, and delicately fruity, it’s
With that Raita’s work here is done; passengers and crew are well and
the perfect choice.
truly sated and relaxing on Duchess’ spacious aft deck. As we motor back
Next up is an Oriental take on an established Aussie favourite; grilled
to Newport, our chef explains the simple origins of his old-meets-new
Yamba king prawn. Mark draws the line at Raita building a barbeque on
methodology.
deck, so the two chefs venture ashore to set up a makeshift kitchen on
“In Australia it can be hard to get hold of the traditional ingredients
the beach (giving Mark the chance to demonstrate one of Duchess’ most
that we’d use in Japan,” he says. “So we found ways to serve food in a
impressive features, a hydraulic rear deck which lifts to reveal a walkmodern way while still basing our menu on authentic Japanese dishes. I
in tender garage). A short time later an irresistible smell wafts across
love cooking this way, because it allows me to use the best local ingredients
the bay as the pair return with a stack of perfectly grilled seafood. Our
– at Ocean Room we have a great relationship with the Australian farmers
‘traditional’ prawns arrive stacked high on the plate, seasoned with fresh
and fishermen who provide our produce.”
sansho leaves mixed with soy mirin sauce. They vanish before Raita can
Although best known for his modern slant on Japanese cuisine, Raita
finish announcing the dish. Their contemporary equivalents meanwhile
says Ocean Room’s clientele are getting increasingly adventurous when it
come neatly butterflied, garnished with cured cucumber, nashi pear and
comes to trying the more authentic dishes.
watermelon and drizzled with a vinaigrette of coriander leaves, soy, lemon
“In the last five years we’ve found people are much more willing to try
juice, camellia oil and fresh ginger. They quickly go the same way as their
dishes they might be unfamiliar with,” he says. “People are more worldly
predecessors, helped along with a pair of fine Sauvignon Blancs; the 2009
and know more about Japanese cooking now, so
James Oatley Tic Tok and 2008 Robert Oatley.
they are a lot more adventurous with what they
Perfect boating wines, their vibrant tropical fruit
choose to eat.”
flavours and crisp mouthfeel work perfectly with
dine, wine & cruise
Despite his love of seafood Raita is relatively
the succulent prawns.
Ocean Room
inexperienced at cooking at sea. Today is only
The final course of the day is Wagyu beef loin,
Circular Quay West, The Rocks Sydney
the fourth time he’s cooked on a boat, but he
again prepared on Raita’s makeshift beach grill
+61 2 9252 9585
seems completely at home in Duchess’ galley.
(“Australians love their meat barbequed!” he
www.oceanroomsydney.com
“This is actually a lot of space to cook in for a
quips). The classic version is grilled with rock
Robert Oatley Wines
boat,”
he says. “I’ve been on much bigger cruise
salt and black pepper, and served with simmered
+61 2 9433 3223
ships
where
the kitchens are a lot more cramped.
bamboo shoot, slow-roasted cherry tomato and
www.robertoatley.com.au
And
I’ve
cooked
for 120 passenger before, so
okra. For the modern update on the dish Raita
Palm Beach Motor Yachts
cooking
for
eight
is
easy!”
marinates the beef in camellia oil, garlic, and
+61 2 4389 1244
We’re
glad
to
hear
that, as we’d love to have
fresh chilli, wrapping it in a foil parcel to be
www.pbmy.com.au
Raita as our chef onboard again. As long as he’s
lightly roasted it in the grill’s embers.
careful where he aims that blowtorch.
Served with roast eggplant and a zesty dressing
O
ocean | 131
Chefs On Board
first course
second course
third course
CLASSIC
Tataki seared blue fin tuna sashimi
with Ponzu sauce
CLASSIC
Skewer grilled Yamba king prawns
with fresh Shiso scented soy
CLASSIC
Aburiyaki Wagyu beef with
“Hida Konro” mini table grill
•
•
•
modern
Tataki blue fin tuna sashimi
in two temperatures
modern
Bin chao tan charcoal grilled
crispy Yamba prawn with cured
summer vegetable
modern
Robata grilled Wagyu beef
tataki nigiri sushi
Tataki seared blue fin tuna sashimi with
Ponzu sauce
Skewer grilled Yamba king prawns with
fresh Shiso scented soy
Aburiyaki Wagyu beef with “Hida Konro” mini table grill
1. L oin of fresh sashimi quality blue fin tuna seasoned with
sea salt. Leave it in cool place for 30 minutes before
starting to cook.
1. Cut backside of the shell of prawn and remove intestine.
Skewer the prawn to straight up and lightly season with
sea salt.
1. S eason wagyu beef karubi with rock salt and black
pepper and then grill on high heat part of robata grill as bleu.
2. O
n the high heat part of robata grill, quickly sear 4
surfaces of tuna and dip into ice cold water to stop heat
going through.
2. At the beginning, sear on the high heat part of robata
grill and shift to medium heat to cook through.
2. R est beef in warm place approx 5 minutes and slice
4-5mm thickness and plate up with simmered bamboo
shoot, slow roasted cherry tomatoes and okra.
3. T ake water off with cloth; let it rest for a while in fridge.
4. S lice seared tuna loin approx 3-4mm thickness and plate
up on crushed ice dish.
5. P late up matching garnishes – chopped chives, chilli red
daikon radish and baby shiso leaves etc.
3. When almost ready to go, season with fresh sansho
leaves mixed with soy mirin sauce with pastry. Brush few times.
4. Plate up and serve with little garnishes.
6. Served with ponzu dipping sauce.
Bin chao tan charcoal grilled crispy Yamba
prawns with cured summer vegetable
Tataki blue fin tuna sashimi in
two temperatures
1. Remove back intestine from joint of the shell with
skewer. Season with sea salt, Sansho Pepper (very
similar to Szechuan pepper) and black pepper.
1. S plit loin of fresh sashimi quality blue fin tuna like a
square log then season with sea salt and coursed black
pepper.
2. O
n the high heat part of robata grill, quickly sear 4
surfaces of the tuna. Half of seared tuna dipped into ice
cold water to stop heat going through and rest leave it
as is.
3. Cut
into dice shape for both iced and warm and plate
them up. Salt.
132 | ocean
2. At the beginning, sear on the high heat part of robata
grill and shift to medium heat to cook through. Make
sure the shell has become crispy enough to eat. When
ready cut each prawns in to half in middle.
3. On the plate, decorate with cured cucumber, nashi pear
and watermelon. Then place grilled prawns on the plate.
4. Drizzle coriander vinaigrette (Coriander leaves, soy,
lemon juice, Camellia oil, fresh ginger etc.) on the plate.
3. P lace small hot bin cho tan in mini table grill called Hida
Konro and served with plated beef and vegetables.
4. O
n the table, guests grill sliced wagyu beef and
vegetables as they like.
Robata grilled Wagyu beef tataki nigiri sushi
1. S eason wagyu beef karubi with rock salt and black
pepper and then grill on high heat part of robata grill
then wrap beef in tin foil and dig in to ember of bin cho
tan to roast it up.
2. R est grilled beef at warm place for least 5-10 minutes
then slice into 2-3mm thickness for nigiri sushi.
3. W
ith sushi rice and wasabi to mold up as nigiri sushi shape.
4. P late up nigiri sushi with pickled ginger, served with
garnish and soy sauce.
Gineico congratulates Palm Beach
Motor Yachts on the launch of
the impressive Palm Beach 65
Gineico are proud suppliers of lighting, Vimar switches,
Gallinea Professional Wiper System, Alcantara fabric, Sanguineti deck
chairs and cabinet hardware on the Palm Beach 65.
When Quality & Service Matter
Also available from Gineico is a huge range of tables, galleyware, alloy and teak furniture
• Bathing & side ladders
• Bollards, fairleads & mooring cleats
• Capstan winches
• Cranes, davits & gangways
• Deck furniture
• Door & cabinet hardware
• Engineroom fans & blowers
• Fuel fillers & breathers
• Galley items
• Hatches & portholes
• Helm/pilot seats
• Kitchen appliances & cookware
• Lighting
• Marine fabrics
• Sound proofing & fire insulation
• Steering
• Steering wheels & helm wheels
• Seat & table pedestals
• Switches & dimmers
• Windscreen wipers
• Watermakers
m
co
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wwms: 2) 9690 56 024
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(08) 9) 377
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