Untitled - Klettern

Transcription

Untitled - Klettern

Laos
1
Laos Climbing Sites
1
2 3
4
5
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Luang Phrabang
Vang Vieng
Xaisomboune
Kong Lor Valley
Thakhek
2
Rock Climbing
Vang Vieng
Laos
3
General Information
Rock climbing in Vang Vieng was first established through a group of German/American climbers in
Februar 2002, with the help of Wildside Eco Group/ Green Discovery. The small tourist town of Vang
Vieng is 170 km north of Vientiane, on the road 13 up to Luang Phrabang. Access and acommodation is
easy and cheap.
If you still have the information that a permit is required for climbing in Laos – things changed: After
long discussions with the local Tousirst Authority Inty Deansavan, the Manager of Green Discovery,
succeded just recently – climbing is allowed to everyone, the whole permit issue is dropped!!! (see also
www.greendisscoverylaos.com). Nevertheless this is different if you plan in opening up a new cliff.
Therefore a permission of the local authorities is necessary. Check with all questions with Green
Discovery, they also have a new route book, climbing courses and equipment for rent. As most of the
harder routes have not yet been repeated consider the ratings as a proposal.
Volker Schöffl, 2010
For further information get the guide book through Green Discovery
and visit their web page on the latest news. A new edition of the
guidebook is on it`s way. The one Adams Climbing School sells in
Vang Vieng are just incomplete copies out of this book.
4
Credits
Many thanks to the following companies for sponsoring bolts and climbing equipment:
Krimmer Outdoor Systems, Roc´terra, Entre-Prises, E9, Flash Liquid Chalk,
The North Face, Green Discovery Laos.
5
Tham Nam Them
Access:
Leave Vang Vieng north on the main road, after 6.5km turn left, just where a house with a
blue roof is on the right hand side (on the left side of the road is a distance stone saying: Kasi
51 km). If you ae looking to the left side the ridge of the mountain range forms a v-shaped
intercut, thats where the cave entrance is located. Follow the dirt road left up to it´s end onto
rice paddies, traverse these to the left where a small path leads to the river. After crossing
follow the mostly dry small river bed for 10 min., just before it´s end at a little cave follow the
trail right to Tham Nam Them Cave. Go through the cave, the climbing area is just at it´s
opening on the other side. You can also walk on a small trail across the saddle to the other side
instead of going through the cave. The routes outside the cave are seeping wet because of the
monsum for about half of the year, thus they might be dirty again once you get there.
Nevertheless the little effort of cleaning them is worth it, exspecially for the hard routes. All
routes within the cave are allways clean, from 11 am to 3 pm the light inside the cave is perfect
and the temperatures are nice and cool. If the temperature outside the cave is too hot, the routes
within the cave might be wet.
6
Tham Nam Them
5
1
6
Small Topo
7
2
8
3
9
9b
10
4
Trail
Inside the cave
19
18
17
14
15
12
11
16
13
7
Trail
2
© Volker Schöffl
Tham Nam Them
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
Prince of the Sky, 8a+
Barrel Roll, 8a
Quicky, 6a
Poppy Seed, 6a
Lima Site, 7a+
AK-47, 7c
Tuk Tuk Express, 7c+
Yellow Rain, 7a+
Missing Sweety, 6b+
9.b Aaron, 6c+
Alternate, 6c
Beer Lao 5c
Remember Me, 6a
Sabaydee, 6a
The Critton, 7a+
February 5th. 8a/b
Another Day in Paradise, 8a+
Project
Volkers Eistraum 7b+
Eiszeit 7c/7c+
Volker Schöffl,, Christina Müller Feb.2002
Volker Schöffl, Sam Lightner Feb.2002
Gerd Schöffl Feb.2002
Radek Capek, Feb.2002
Gerd Schöffl Feb.2002
Carsten Seidel, Feb.2002
Radek Capek, Feb.2002
Sam Lightner, Carsten Seidel, Feb.2002
Sam Lightner, Feb.2002
King, Aey, Feb.2003
Sam Lightner, Feb.2002
Christina Mueller, Feb.2002
Sam Lightner, Volker Schöffl, Feb.2002
Volker Schöffl, March 2005 *
Volker Schöffl, Christina Müller, Jan.2003
Volker Schöffl, Feb.2004
Volker Schöffl, Carsten Seidel, Feb.2004
* Dedicated to those who lost there lives in a stupid bandit ambush at Feb.5th 2003 just close to Tam Nam Them on the main road;
the same day when I bolted the route.
8
© Volker Schöffl
Tham Nam Them
1.
Prince of the Sky, 8a+ 18m (Volker Schöffl,, Christina Müller Feb.2002, redpoint Volker Schöffl)
Starts to the right when you get out of the cave, two bolts on a slab than continues up the arrete.
2.
Barrel Roll, 8a 14m (Sam Lightner Feb.2002, redpoint Volker Schöffl)
Starts on the right side within the cave before climbing up the ladder, continues up the steep face
up to the belay right next to the big boulder
3.
Quicky, 6a 5m (Gerd Schöffl Feb.2002)
Underneath the big boulder, the short route on the left side
4.
Poppy Seed, 6a 9m (Radek Capek, Feb.2002)
To the rigth of route 3, for the start downclimb to a little block in the gulley
5.
Lima Site, 7a+ 15m (Gerd Schöffl Feb.2002)
On top of the boulder block, joins a start with route 6, than after the second bolt forks off to the left,
continuing traversing and than straight up)
6.
AK-47, 7c 30m (Carsten Seidel, Feb.2002)
Takes the same start as route 5, continues slightly right and straight to a big flake with a long move
into an undercling. From there through the stalagtites up to the anchors above the lip.
© Volker Schöffl
9
Tham Nam Them
7.
Tuk Tuk Express, 7c+ 35m (Radek Capek, Feb.2002)
Joins a start with route 8, just left of a boulder block within the gulley, continues left underand sideclings and than straight, the anchors are right and above route 6´s.
8.
Yellow Rain, 7a+ 15m (Sam Lightner Feb.2002)
Same first bolt as route 7, than slightly right and a long reach up the stalagtite. Underclinging
straight up to the shared anchors with route 9.
9.
Missing Sweety, 6b+ 17m (Sam Lightner, Feb.2002, redpoint Christina Müller)
Start 2m right to No.8, and than straight up. Or alternatively
9.b Aaron, 6c+ 13m (King, Aey, Feb.2003, redpoint Volker Schöffl)
After the 3rd bolt of route 9 traverse right und loose flakes to the belay of No.10.
10.
Alternate, 6c 15m (Sam Lightner, Feb.2002)
Starting at the right sided end of the canyon, traversing up and left)
11.
Beer Lao 5c 8m (Carsten Seidel, Feb.2002)
The right route on the other boulder, just 25 m up from No.9
12.
Remember Me, 6a 10m (Carsten Seidel, Feb.2002)
The left route at the boulder
© Volker Schöffl
10
Tham Nam Them
13.
Sabaydee, 6a 7m (Christina Müller, Feb.2002)
On the other side of the boulder of routes 11 and 12.
14.
The Critton, 7a+ 15m (Volker Schöffl, Feb.2002, redpoint Sam Lightner)
The classic route within the cave, which has best light between 12 and 3 pm. Down into the cave and
downclimbing little boulder blocks to the obvious start with a little defile and than laybacks.
15.
February 5th 8a/b (Volker Schöffl, March 2005)
To the right side of the critton. Dedicated to those who lost there lives in a stupid bandit ambush at Feb.5th
2003 just close to Tam Nam Them on the main road; the same day when I bolted the route.
13.
Another Day in Paradise, 8a+ 15m (Volker Schöffl, Christina Mueller, Jan.2003, redpoint Volker Schöffl)
30 m to the right of No.15, a almost 10m long roof which points downward at the end, anchors on a single
bolt in the slab, which can be unclipped directly from a boulder block
14.
Project
Little 2 bolts boulder, not finished
15.
Volkers Eistraum 7b+ 12m (Volker Schöffl, Feb.2004)
To the left of „The Critton“, the holds are worse and more slopy as they look like
16.
Eiszeit 7c/7c+ 10m (Volker Schöffl, Carsten Seidel, Feb.2004)
Short but pretty bouldery route left of No.18.
© Volker Schöffl
11
Volker Schöffl in „Feb.5th“
Feb.5th“
Gerd Schöffl in „Lima Site“
Site“
Tham Nam Them
12
Volker Schöffl in „Another Day in Paradise“
Paradise“
Sleeping Wall
Access:
Take the road north of VangV ieng, after 2km leave
it to the left, following the sign to Tham None Cave
(Sleeping Cave). As you get to the river (Nam Song)
yell for the boatmen on the other side to take you
across. The wall is just behind the visible shit wall
next to the river.
13
Sleeping Wall
1
2
3
4
5
6
20
22 23
21
7
8
9
10
11
17
12
15 16
13 14
18
19
R
I
V
E
R
Trail
© Volker Schöffl
14
Sleeping Wall
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
Oscar, 7b+
Tina, 7b
Spider, 7b
Snake Skin, 7a
Lonely Cowboy 6b
Hate 6b
White Jungle 6b+
Happy 6a
Sek Billion 5b
Sam‘s Dream, 5
Wildside, 6b
Kouky, 6c+
Si Pou, 7b+
La, 6c
Happy TuTu, 6c
Give Pizza a Chance, 6c+
Gerton Jonny Watson, 4
Rcap 512, 5a
Bierseidel, 5b
American anti force 6a+
Freak Show, 6a+
Monkey World 6b+
Don´t worry be happy 6b
Volker Schöffl and Christina Müller Dec.2002
Volker Schöffl Oct. 2003
Volker Schöffl Oct. 2003
Enrico Ramoth, Gerd & Volker Schoöfl, Feb.2004
Sek and Volker Schöffl Feb 2004
Sek Feb 2004
Christina Müller, Volker Schöffl Dec.2002
Oetztuerck, Dec. 2006
Thomas Wenk, Mylene D., Feb. 2008
Thomas Wenk, March 08
15
© Volker Schoeffl
Sleeping Wall
1.
Oscar, 7b+ 18m (Volker Schöffl, Christina Müller Dec.2002, redpoint Volker Schöffl)
The left route on the overhanging face, bouldery crux at the 4th bolt
2.
Tina, 7b 20m (Volker Schöffl, Christina Müller Dec.2002, redpoint Volker Schöffl)
5m right to No.1, boulder crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, than endurance up straight and left
3.
Spider, 7b 14m (Volker Schöffl, Christina Müller Dec.2002, redpoint Volker Schöffl)
The next route to the right, straight through the roof, the crux is right before the lip of the roof
4.
Snake Skin, 7a 13m (Volker Schöffl, Christina Müller Dec.2002, redpoint Volker Schöffl)
Same start as No.3, than goes right and through the roof, after the lip traverse left to the same anchor
as No.3
5.
Lonely Cowboy 6b 8m (Volker Schöffl Oct. 2003)
Up on the stalagtites and slightly right on top, same anchors as No.6
6.
Hate 6b 8m (Volker Schöffl Oct. 2003)
Sharp handholds, joins anchors with No.5
© Volker Schöffl
16
Sleeping Wall
14.
La, 6c 20m (Volker Schöffl , Christina Müller Dec.2002)
Just left side where the canyon gets smaller, goes up the arrate and then left to the anchors of No.13.
15.
Happy TuTu, 6c 12m (Volker Schöffl , Christina Müller Dec.2002, redpoint Christina Müller)
The best of the 6c´s, lots of small stalagtites.
16.
Give Pizza a Chance, 6c+ 12m (Volker Schöffl , Christina Müller Dec.2002)
The last route in the canyon, don´t fall cliping the 4th bolt, as the backwall is close to you.
17.
Gerton Jonny Watson, 4 10m (Volker Schöffl , Christina Müller Dec.2002)
The left route on the right hand side of the canyon.
18.
Rcap 512, 5a 12m (Volker Schöffl , Christina Müller Dec.2002)
Straight up through the middle of the wall, mostly used for climbing classes.
19.
Bierseidel, 5b 11m (Volker Schöffl , Christina Müller Dec.2002)
To the right of No.18, crux right on top.
© Volker Schöffl
17
Sleeping Wall - Secret Canyon
Access:
Take the road north of VangV ieng, after 2km leave
it to the left, following the sign to Tham None Cave
across. The first cliff which you are getting to is Sleeping
Wall, continue to it´s left and follow a samll trail which
than leads into the Secret Canyon.
18
Tubers Paradise
Wall
Secret Canyon
Irrigation Channel
Tham None
Sleeping Wall
Nam Song
19
© Volker Schöffl
Sleeping Wall - Secret Canyon I
1 2 3
4
5
Chimney gym
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Sleeping Wall - Secret Canyon I
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Living on the edge, 6a, 18m
Thomas Wenk, Jan.08
Oh la la, 6b, 18m
Thomas Wenk, Jan.08
Bee nest 5c/6a, 18m
Thomas Wenk, Jan.08
Snoopy, 5b, 10m
Thomas Wenk, Jan.08
Mein Schatz mit Locken, 5c, 12m
Thomas Wenk, Jan.08
5.1. Chimney gym, 5b, 12m
Thomas Wenk, Jan.08
5.2. I like it tight, 5b, 12m
Thomas Wenk, Jan.08
5.3. The light at the end of the tunnel, 4, 12m Thomas Wenk, Jan.08
21
Sleeping Wall - Secret Canyon II
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
22
Sleeping Wall - Secret Canyon II
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Camp 4.20, 6a, 16m
Arne the Viking, 6a, 16m
Hey Joe, 6b, 15m
France Connection, 6c+, 15m
No wonder, 6b+, 15m
Hope is born, 6b+, 15m
Let´s rock, 6b+, 12m
Wishful thinking, 6b+, 10m
Up to date, 7a, 11m
Thomas Wenk, Dec.2007
23
Sleeping Cave
Access:
Take the road north of VangVieng, after 2km leave
it to the left, following the sign to Tham Non Cave
across. Up to here it is the same approach as to
the Sleeping Wall. After crossing the Nam Song
river turn right, to the Tam Non Cave.
24
Sleeping Cave
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
9
3
1
2
4
5 6
10
11
12
13
14
7
8
Left side
9
10
11 12 13 14
Right side
© Volker Schöffl
25
Sleeping Cave
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
Xayhoo 7b+
Sok di be mai, 8a
Butterfly, 8a
Tag am Meer 7c+/8a
Just horrified 7a
Karaokee, 7b
Flash Keks, 6b
Pin Pah Noi Ngun, 5c
Chicken Schnitzel, 7b+
Cornflake, 6c
Ostkamin, 6a+
Puzzle, 6c+
Hamilton Powerarm meets
Tyrone Shoelace 6b
14. Scary Tuna, 5b
Volker Schöffl, Carsten Seidel, Gerd Schöffl, Enrico Ramoth Feb. 2004
Volker Schöffl, April 2003
Volker Schöffl March 2004
Volker Schöffl, March 2003
Volker Schöffl Stefan Zenker , March 2003
Volker Schöffl Max Felle,, Alex Hislop, Oscar Willemsen, March 2003
Mark Ryan,, Volker Schöffl Feb. 2004
Stefan Zenker, Volker Schöffl, March 2003
© Volker Schöffl
26
Sleeping Cave
1.
Xayhoo 7b+ 10m (Volker Schöffl, Carsten Seidel, Gerd Schöffl, Enrico Ramoth Feb. 2004, repoint Volker
Schöffl)
The route on the very left hand side, nice upperarm moves through the roof, crux on the lip.
2.
Sok di Phi Mai, 8a 12m (Volker Schöffl, April 2003)
Trickey moves through the center of the roof.
3.
Butterfly, 8a 17m (Volker Schöffl, Feb.2004)
Starts together with No.4, than goes left after the 6th bolt and the first crux, continues through
the roof to a double kneebar no-hand rest and one more hard move afterwards.
4.
Tag am Meer 7c+/8a 19m (Volker Schöffl, Feb.2004)
As above and after the 6th bolt to the right, endurance climbing on good holds to the anchor.
5.
Just horified 7a 15m (Volker Schöffl March 2004)
Starting from a little ledge, continues steep straight uo and left.
6.
Karaokee, 7b
17m (Volker Schöffl, March 2003)
Starting 2m right of No.5 from the ledge, straight and the left through the whole roof and down to the
joined anchors with No.14.
27
© Volker Schöffl
Sleeping Cave
12. Puzzle, 6c+ 15m (Volker Schöffl Max Felle,, Alex Hislop, Oscar Willemsen, March 2003, redpoint
Max Felle)
A trickey slab to start with and than up a double line of small pinches.
13. Hamilton Powerarm meets Tyrone Shoelace 6b 18m (Mark Ryan, Volker Schöffl Feb. 2004,
redpoint Mark Ryan)
3m left of No.12, a large chimney leads to a small overhang, past that and through the roof to
the same anchor as route 7, coming up from the other side of the cave.
14. Scary Tuna, 5b 12m (Stefan Zenker, Volker Schöffl, March 2003)
The big stalagtite. Starting 5m right of No.13, up to the ledge and than onto the stalagtite.
Notice ist swing!
© Volker28
Schöffl
Volker Schöffl in „Butterfly“
Butterfly“
Sleeping Wall and Cave
Enrico Haase in „Snake skin“
skin“
Isabelle Schöffl in „Si Pou“
Pou“
29
Sek bolting
Enrico Ramoth in „Chicken Schnitzel“
Schnitzel“
Sleeping Cave Upper Wall
There is another wall next to Sleeping Cave, with potential for
future developement (5 to 6c). Just fork of to the right side before
entering the cave. Continue the trail up to the wall and to it`s right
end. There is a bolted via ferrata with a fixed rope (Carsten Seidel,
Volker Schoeffl, Feb.2004) to a big ledge. If the rope is gone you
can follow the bolts, something like a 4 or 5. Thomas Wenk started
bolting new routes there in 2007, but due to permit issues it´s presently
not possible to bolt there.
30
Pha Daeng Mountain
Access:
In Vang Vieng cross the Nam Song River and hike in
the direction to Pha Daeng Mountain or Lusy Cave .
At the base of the mountain turn left and continue the
trail until you get to a small cave. Keep left until a trail
leads up to the cliff. If you can´t find the trail ask the
guide at the little cave, he can show you.
© Volker Schöffl
31
Pha Daeng Mountain
2b
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8 9
10
Trail
© Volker Schöffl
32
Pha Daeng Mountain
1.
King Cobra, 6a+
2.
Pit Viper, 6c+
2b Pit Viper direct 7a
Thomas Wenk, February 2008
3.
Thanks Josh, 6b
Thomas Wenk, February 2007
4.
Egg Power 7a
Alex Morcom, Adrian Nicholas, February 2007
5.
Pea My, 6b+
6.
Ngu Pit 6a+
7.
Meng Mum, 6a+
8.
Highland Games, 6b
Thomas Wenk, April 2007
9.
Battery mot loe 7a
Thomas Wenk, April 2007
10. Please don´t rush 7a+
Thomas Wenk, Mylene Desgroseilliers, February 2008
© Volker Schöffl
33
Tuber´s Paradise Wall
Wall
Irrigation Channel
Tham None
Trail
Nam Song
Sleeping Wall
This is the big face, further down the valley inbetween the
Sleeping Cave and Sleeping Wall.. For the access go to the
other side of the river, as in Sleeping Cave. Follow the small
trail into the jungle, continuing left at the irrigation channel..
Traverse is at the spot where we built a little bridge (2 tree
logs). Continue first left than straight to the end of the
secondary jungle. From there follow the jungle trail, which is
market with orange trail marks. Take care on the trail, a34lot of
the rocks are very sharp and loose.
© Volker Schöffl
Khoi hak chao – Tuber´s Paradise Wall
To be continued
6b+
Khoi Hak Chao: 6c+
Isabelle and Volker Schöffl
Oktober 2004
6a
6c+
6b
Equipment: 50 m ropes, 12
Quickdraws, all bolted.
Rappels: The rappels are
down the route, with
backclipping at the 3rd and
4th pitch (tricky !).
6a
6a
© Volker Schöffl
35
No fear my Dear– Tuber´s Paradise Wall
No fear my Dear 6c+
6c
6c+
Thomas Wenk, Sai, Pern 2007, 2008
(4 pitches)
5th pith: Diego Zanesco and Michi Andres
10/2008
Equipment: 50 m ropes, 12 Quickdraws,
all bolted.
6a
6a+
6a
Khoi hak chao
No fear my Dear
36
Khoi hak chao
37
Isabelle Schöffl in „Khoi hak chao“
chao“
Lost Souls - Phaly Mountain
• This is a 4 pitch trad
route north of Vang
Vieng put up by 2 British
Guys 2009. I´m posting
their original information
and the google map here
as I haven´t been there
myself.
38
Lost Souls - Phaly Mountain
First ascent of Lost Souls on Pahly Mountain 4 pitches E3 5c UK grade
1st pitch 5a, 2nd pitch 5b, 3rd pitch 5c, 4th pitch 5b. Climbed on site no bolts
Cliff height - 90m
Orientation - East
Route - Lost Souls
UK Grade - E3. 5c
Proposed
route
Escape
route
View of the cliff on Pahly mountain
Red line is the actual route, the continuation will have to wait until I get fitter
39
Pha Tang – Na Pha Daeng
Access:
Leave Vang Vieng north on the main road (Rt13), after 20 km you will get to
the Pha tang village. Continue 2km north until you see the big white and red
wall (Pha Daeng means red wall) on the left side. Take a small trail of the road
to the left end of the main wall. After crossing the rice paddies stay a little left
until you get to a jungle trail which goes along the wall. Be careful not to step
onto the traps, set up by the locals to catch small mammals. There is also
another trail on the right side. The climbing area is at a white „amphitheatre“ ,
which is obviously visible (Sector Calcaneus) and fruther to the right. The rock is
clean and also dry in rainy days. Most of the route names are written onto the
wall. This is the best place we have in Vang Vieng and more routes are to come.
March 2009
© Volker Schöffl
40
Isabelle Schöffl in „Calcaneus“
Calcaneus“
Karin Anders in „Frauenbewegung“
Frauenbewegung“
V. Schöffl in „Le charme...
charme...““
Volker Schöffl in „Bullet hole
Pha Daeng
2008
Calcaneus“
Calcaneus“
Anja Carion in Stem for ...“
...“
Volker Schöffl in „Palasa Ling“
Ling“
41
Pha Tang – Na Pha Daeng
The Sectors
1
Rock face
2
3
6
4
5
1 Deeper than the day
2. Papillon
Trail
Trail
River
Road
3. Calcaneus
4. Millipede
5. Papaya Tree
6. Rocterra
42
Na Pha Daeng – Sector „Deeper than the day“
Hanging belay
8b, 25m
Hanging belay
Deeper than the day
7c, 20m
Hanging belay
6c+, 20m
Belay in big cave
6c, 30m
6b+,30m
Climb through cave
8 pitches, 210m, 8b
Jens Richter, Philip Flaemig 01/2008
Some bolts ( ), fixed slings, all belays
(slings, some bolts) are in place, rappel
downs the route.
Belay in little cave
6b, 25m
6a+, 30m
6b, 30m
Equipment: 60m, better 70m rope
1 set of nuts, Friends 0.5-2.5,
slings
43
Na Pha Daeng – Sector Papillon
1
2
3
4
5
6
Sector Calcaneus
© Volker Schöffl 44
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Project
Inty 7a
Champa Nakon 7c+/8a
Papillon 6c
Stem for treasure 5c
6.
Wangoet Wong 5c
Isabelle Schöffl, 2009
Hoi,Isabelle Schöffl, Kelly Carbon, March 2008
Isabelle and Volker Schöffl, January 2009
Hoi and Thomas Wenk, March 2008
Isabelle Schöffl, Hoi, Montserrat & Anja Carion,
Februar 2008
Hoi,, April 2006 (Sector Calcaneus)
45
1.
Project (Isabelle Schöffl 2009)
2.
Inty 7a, 20 m, (Hoi,Isabelle Schöffl, Kelly Carbon, March 2008, redpoint Hoi)
The route continues up along the obvious left of the two cracks
3.
Champa Nakon 7c+/8a (Isabelle and Volker Schöffl March 2008, redpoint
Isabelle Schöffl January 2009) Crimpy, crimpy, crimpy..
4.
Papillon 6c (Hoi and Thomas Weck, March 2008, redpoint Hoi)
The right long crack
5.
Stem for treasure,5c (Isabelle Schöffl, Hoi, Montserrat & Anja Carion ,
Februar 2008)
Nice climb up the defile
6.
Wangoet Wong 5c, Hoi,, April 2006 (Sector Calcaneus)
This is the first route of the topo Sector Calcaneus, which continues further to
the right.
46
Na Pha Daeng – Sector Calcaneus
4c
6 7
4b
4c
5
12
6 7
1
8
9
13
14
15
10
2 3
4c 4a
16 17
11
18
47
© Volker Schöffl
1.
2.
3.
4.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
Wangoet Wong 5c
Cand.med. 5b
Ankiakigokja 6a
4a. Angels and Daemons 6c
4b. Aldokora 7a (4a,b)
4c. Jungle Inside (multipitch, 7a+)
Proper training is essential before use 6c+ (4a+5)
A Million Elephants and a white Parasol
7b
Calcaneus 7c+
Palasa Ling 7c
Happy end 8a
Les Charmes du Laos 7c
Chao Ling chep lai lai 6a
Les Larmes du Chaos 7b
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
Hois girl 7b+
Two had to leave the party 7a
Money can´t buy me love 6b+
Frauenbewegung 7a+
Be Mai Ni 6c
Spuzl 8a+
5.
6.
Hoi,, April 2006
Isabelle Schöffl, April 2006
Konrad Oppelt, Alexander Neuhof , March 2008
Thorsten Bauer, Isabelle Schöffl, April 2006
Isabelle Schöffl, Volker Schöffl, April 2006
Diego Zanesco, Michi Andres Oktober 2008
Isabelle Schöffl, April 2006
Isabelle and Volker Schöffl, March 2007
Isabelle and Volker Schöffl, February 2008
Volker Schöffl February 2008
Volker Schöffl, February 2009
Thorsten Bauer, Frank Einwag, Volker Schöffl,
April 2006
Thorsten Bauer, Hoi,, Volker Schöffl, April 2006
Thorsten Bauer, April 2006
Thorsten Bauer, April 2006
Karin Anders, April 2006
Frank Einwag, April 2006
48
© Volker Schöffl
1.
Wangoet Wong 5c 10m (Hoi , April 2006)
Nice little easy climb with one hard move.
2.
Cand.med. 5b 10m (Isabelle Schöffl, April 2006)
Starting together with No.1 and goes up and right, to the anchors of No.3.
3.
Ankiakigokja (Konrad Oppelt, Alexander Neuhof March 2008, redpont Konrad Oppelt)
6a, 10m straight up to the anchors
4.
4a. Angels and Daemons 6c 12m (Thorsten Bauer, Isabelle Schöffl, April 2006, redpoint Thorsten
Bauer) Big holds and a little pumpy.
4b. Aldokora 7a (4a+b) 28m (Isabelle Schöffl, Volker Schöffl, April 2006, redpoint Isabelle Schöffl)
Continues route 3 all the way up, nice endurance climb. Be sure your rope is long enough!
5.
Proper training is essential before use 6c+ (3+5) 22 m (Isabelle Schöffl, April 2006)
Start with route No.3 and than continue to the right. The crux is at the end of the big flake, technical
moves.
6.
A Million Elephants and a white Parasol 7b, 30m (Isabelle and Volker Schöffl, March 2007, redpoint
Isabelle Schöffl)
The best route in the sector!, long and endurance with one harder move. Starts with
49
No.4a and after the 5th bolt goes right, joins No.5 with the crux and continues straight up – a must!
7.
Calcaneus 7c+, 30m (Isabelle and Volker Schöffl 2006 and 2008, redpoint Isabelle Schöffl)
When a hold came off i had a groundfall and shattered my calcaneus. So the surgeons needed to fix me
and Isa completed the route 2 years later higher up and redpointed it.
8.
Palasa Ling 7c, 18m (Volker Schöffl 2008)
Whatch the blocks at the start, which are a bit loose.
9.
Happy End 8a, 18m (Volker Schöffl 2009)
Long moves on good holds, atheltic, with the second crux right at the end.
8.
Les Charmes du Laos 7c 20m (Volker Schöffl, April 2006)
The crux is the last move with two 2-finger pockets.
9.
Chao Ling chep lai lai 6a 10m (Volker Schöffl, April 2006)
Nice warm up with a bit of loose rock at the start.
10.
Les Larmes du Chaos 7b 20m, (Thorsten Bauer, Frank Einwag, Volker Schöffl, April 2006, redpoint
Thorsten Bauer)
Starts with route No.8 and continues straight up to a joined anchor with route No.7.
11.
Hois girl 7b+ 27m (Thorsten Bauer, Hoi, Volker Schöffl, April 2006, redpoint Thorsten Bauer)
Starts with route No.8 and traverses right and than up.
50
14.
Two had to leave the party 7a, 22m (Thorsten Bauer, April 2006)
Two long reaches after the traverse to the left. Starts together with route 12.
15.
Money can´t buy me love 6b+, 20m (Thorsten Bauer, April 2006)
Big holds and a not too easy start for the grade.
16.
Frauenbewegung 7a+ 27m (Karin Anders, April 2006)
The finish is the crux! Joined start with No.12.
17.
Be Mai Ni 6c 25m (Frank Einwag, April 2006)
Long and beatiful, joined start with No.12.
18.
Spuzl 8a+, 15m (Volker Schöffl, March 2007)
Long reach and bouldery, the crux is higher up as you would expect.
51
4c: Jungle Inside, 6 pitches, Diego Zanesco and Michi Anders Oktober 2008
1. pitch: starts left of Aldokora and joins the anchors with Aldokora, 32m, 14 bolts
2. pitch: 25 m, 6b+, 3 bolts ! and a few little slings.
3. pitch: up the overhanging defile, 25m, 6c+, 12 bolts, 2 pietons
4. pitch: 25m, 14 bolts, 7a+, overhanging fist and finger crack
5. pitch: 25 m, 6b+, no bolts! , 2 fixed slings, more possible
All belay points are equipped for rappels, brings some slings and may be friends, reclip at the 3rd and
4th pitch for rappel to stay at the wall.
52
Karin Anders in „Frauenbewegung“
Frauenbewegung“
V. Schöffl in „Le charme...
charme...““
T.Bauer in „Money...“
Money...“
F.Einwag in „Be Mai Ni“
Ni“
Pha Daeng
Sector Calcaneus
53
Isabelle Schöffl in „Proper training...
training...““
Karin Anders in „Aldokora.
Aldokora.“
Isabelle Schöffl in „Proper training...
training...““
Na Pha Daeng - Sector Millipede
2
1
3
© Volker Schöffl
4
54
1.
Dream Catcher 7c
2.
3.
4.
Sweet Dreams 7c+
Wellcome to the Jungle 6c+
Bullet hole 7c+
Isabelle und Volker Schöffl, redpoint Isabelle Schöffl
March 2007
Jens Richter 2008
Matthias Stöcker, March 2007
Matthias Stöcker, Volker Schöffl, redpoint Volker Schöffl
2007/2008
© Volker Schöffl
55
1.
Dream Catcher 7c 30m (Isabelle und Volker Schöffl, redpoint Isabelle Schöffl, March 2007)
The best route on Na Pha Deng! Quite powerful start and than endurance climbing on pockets.
2.
Sweet Dreams 7c+ (Jens Richter 2008)
Continues Dream Catcher higher up.
3.
Wellcome to the Jungle 6c+ 17m (Matthias Stöcker, March 2007)
Starts together with No.3 and continues up left, along the stalagtite and than into the face.
4.
Bullet hole 7c+ 16m (Matthias Stöcker, Volker Schöffl 2007, redpoint Volker Schöffl 2008)
© Volker Schöffl
56
Isabelle Schöffl in „Champa Nakon“
Nakon“
Volker Schöffl in „Happy End“
End“
Pha Daeng
2009
57
Megan Smith in „Struggling for identity “
Isabelle Schöffl in „Champa Nakon“
Nakon“
Isabelle Schöffl in „Champa Nangkon“
Nangkon“
Na Pha Daeng - Sector Papaya Tree
1
2
3
5
6
7
4
58
© Volker Schöffl
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Project
Bees drive me crazy 6c
Schmeckt much better Brause 6b
Papaya Tree 7b+
Bamberg meets Freiburg 7a+
Scotty and the happy holiday climbers 7a
Air Con 7b+
Hoi March 2007
Thomas Wenk, Matthias Stöcker, March 2007
Matthias Stöcker, Thomas Wenk, March 2007
Matthias Stöcker March 2007
Matthias Stöcker, Thomas Wenk, March 2007
Thomas Wenk, Matthias Stöcker, March 2007
Matthias Stöcker, March 2007
59
1.
Project (Hoi March 2007) 17m
Hois project for a new grade...
2.
Bees drive me crazy 6c 15m (Thomas Weck, Matthias Stöcker, March 2007, redpoint Thomas Wenk)
On the left side of the big obvious huge flake.
3.
Schmeckt much better Brause 6b 15m (Matthias Stöcker, Thomas Wenk, March 2007, redpoint Matthias
Stöcker)
On the right side of the big obvious flake. On the upper part go slightly right.
4.
Papaya Tree 7b+ 17m (Matthias Stöcker March 2007)
Looks like 8a..., Bouldery and crimpy start to a traverse to the left and a mantle. Fontainebleu in Laos.
5.
Bamberg meets Freiburg 7a+ 18m (Matthias Stöcker, Thomas Wenk, March 2007, redpoint Matthias Stöcker)
Joined start with No.6 and a long reach to traverse left.
6.
Scotty and the happy holiday climbers 7a 18m (Thomas Wenk, Matthias Stöcker, March 2007, redpoint
Matthias Stöcker)
Hard at the start and than big holds all the way to the top.
7.
Air Con 7b+ , 22m (Matthias Stöcker, March 2007)
Hard crack at the beginning and a tricky crux on the top...
60
Na Pha Daeng - Rocterra
4
1
2
3
4
5
6
© Volker Schöffl
61
1.
Geiz ist geil 6b
xx, 2009
2.
XX
xx, 2009
3.
Struggling for identity 5c
Isabelle & Volker Schöffl, Megan Smith, Rosie Fisher,
January 2009
4.
Spiderwebs for Izzi 5c
Isabelle & Volker Schöffl , January 2009
5.
3 on a bike 5c
6.
E nove 6b+
Isabelle & Volker Schöffl, Megan Smith, Rosie Fisher,
January 2009
Volker & Isabelle Schöffl, January 2009
© Volker Schöffl
62
1.
Geiz ist geil 6b, 15m
2.
XX, 12m
3.
Struggling for identity 5c, 15m (Isabelle & Volker Schöffl, Megan Smith, Rosie Fisher,
January 2009, redpoint Megan Smith)
All routes 3-6 almost start together, go left over the little overhang and up along the
stalagtites.
4.
Spiderwebs for Izzi 5c, 15m (Isabelle & Volker Schöffl , January 2009, redpoint Volker)
straight up from the start, joins the anchors with Struggling for identity
5.
3 on a bike 5c, 15m (Isabelle & Volker Schöffl, Megan Smith, Rosie Fisher, January 2009,
redpoint Rosie Fisher)
6.
E nove 6b+, 25m (Volker & Isabelle Schöffl, January 2009, redpoint Volker Schöffl)
The classical jungle line, traverse behind the tree without using the tree as a no hand
rest!Between the second and the third bolt stay either a litlle left or a little right.
63
© Volker Schöffl
Isabelle Schöffl in „A Million Elephants...
Elephants...““
Hoi in „Scotty and the…“
the…“
Pha Daeng
Isabelle Schöffl in „Dream Catcher“
Catcher“
64
Isabelle
IsabelleSchöffl
Schöfflin
in„„Dream
A Million
Catcher“
Elephants...
Elephants...““
Volker Schöffl in „Papaya Tree“
Tree“
Volker Schöffl in „Spuzl“
Spuzl“
Rock Climbing
Xaysomboune
Laos
65
General Information
Xaysomboune Special Zone is not yet a province, but still halfway a military area. As this area used to be
the main stronghold of the US troups in the Vietnam War and later on of the remaining Hmong resistance
it is still occasionally a troublesome area. Therefore it remains in the official status of a special zone,
nevertheless it will probabely become a real province in one or two years. For „Farang“ – tourists to go
there a special permit is mandatory, currently Wildside-Green Discovery Laos is the only travel company
which can get you the permit and also get you there. After a very very long time we where the first
tourists who ever stayed in the center town of the special zone, Xaysomboune. The road to get there leaves
from the main road up north to Luang Phrabang (Rd-13) right after the Nam Num lake in the small town
Tha Heua, some 20 km bevore you get to Vang Vieng. It is another 100 km on a bumby dirt road, which
takes about 2 hours on a offroad bike, 2-3 on a jeep or car and maybe 6 hours on the local bus. The road
passes along some smaller villages, there is enough supply for food and gas. Xaysomboun town has 2 little
guesthouses and also homestays availiable. Currently you still need to register with the local tourism
authority, a very nice woman, fluent in French and English and the local police. They provided us with 2
(armed) police guys for our protection, free of charge. Nevertheless even if this might all seems to be a bit
off a hassle it is definately worth it. The rock there is absolutely brilliant, totally clean and of the same
quality as the best places in Phra Nang and Railey! Temperatures are quite low and climbing in the sun is
no problem. The varity of food is basic lao, there are few reaturants, nevertheless none with an english
menu. But beeing away from the beaten tourist trails, discovering the real Laos and having a first rate
climbing area will keep you happy all times. The climbing area, with much more potential for the future, is
on Houa Xang (Elephant head mountain) just north of town. The local tourist authorities will show you
the trail, ist about 20 min uphill walking.
Volker Schöffl,
66
March 2005
Pha Houa Xang
7
3
1
2
4
5
6
Trail
50m
8
© Volker Schoeffl
67
Pha Houa Xang
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Vertigo 7a
Dr. Mathilda 7b
Xaysomboune 8a
Hoi Trail 6b+
Sinthese 6c+
Isa 7c+
7. Project
8. Âme soeur, 7b+
Julian Körner, Februar 2005
Frank Einwag. Februar 2005
Volker Schöffl, Februar 2005
Hoi, Volker Schöffl, Februar 2005
Julian Körner, Ferbruar 2005
Volker Schöffl, Februar 2005 (as a big
flake broke off, Ao to the 3rd bolt)
sequel to Isa
Isabelle Schöffl, Februar 2005
© Volker Schoeffl
68
Pha Houa Xang
1.
Vertigo 7a 15m, (Julian Körner, Februar 2005)
Big holds and steep, good warm up.
2.
Dr. Mathilda 7b 25m (Frank Einwag. Februar 2005)
The line in Xaysomboune, all good holds and brilliant climbing. Watch for the big bird which settled in the big
hole.
3.
Xaysomboune 8a 18m (Volker Schöffl, Februar 2005)
Two hard moves after the traverse, long reach to a two finger pocket.
4.
Hoi Trail 6b+ 20m (Hoi, Volker Schöffl, Februar 2005, redpoint Hoi)
All the way up on the left side of the stalagtite.
5.
Sinthese 6c+ 21m
(Julian Körner, Volker Schöffl, Ferbruar 2005, redpoint Julian Körner)
On the right side of the stalagtite line, with a little overhanging section.
6.
Isa 7c+ 25m (Volker Schöffl, Februar 2005)
(as a big flake broke off, Ao to the 3rd bolt, after that brilliant endurance climb)
7.
Project (Volker Schöffl)
Sequel to Isa
8.
Âme soeur, 7b+ 17m (Isabelle Schöffl, Februar 2005)
50 m to the right of No.7. Hard bouldery crux.
© Volker Schöffl
69
Julian Körner in „Vertigo“
Vertigo“
Frank Einwag in „Dr. Mathilda“
Mathilda“
Pha Houa Xang
Isabelle Schöffl in „Dr. Mathilda“
Mathilda“
70
Volker Schöffl in „Xaysomboune“
Xaysomboune“
F. Einwag in „Dr. Mathilda“
Mathilda“
Hoi in „hoi Trail“
Trail“
Luang Phra Bang
Pak Ou
Eagle Wall
71
Luang Phra Bang
In 1996, just after Laos opened ist`s borders slowly for tourism, we went to Luang Phra Bang
to start rock climbing at Pak Ou. Nevertheless it was still a difficult time for the country,
we found a human skelleton underneath the wall and terrorist gangs were strolling through the
jungle. It was definately not yet the time for outdoor activities. In 1999 Dan Morris and a
group of American climbers established the first routes on Eagle Rock, near Pak Ou. For the
next years it was difficult to climb there, caused by burocracy and permit hassles. Nowadays
it seems to be easier, a group of Polnish climbers around Jacek Kudlaty opened more routes
in 2006. Unfortunately i still do not have their topos. Green Discovery has also an office in
Luang Phra Bang and are offering climbing courses at another small cliff with beginner
routes that were bolted by Hoi and Stuart in 2006.
Volker Schöffl 2006
72
Luang Phra Bang: Pak Ou – Eagle Wall
The cliff is located on the northerrn shore of the Nam Ou (Ou river), where it merges with
the Mekong. The village Pak Ou is on the opposite side and can be reached either by an one
hour boat ride from Luang Phra Bang or leaving on route 13 to the north, past the airport.
After 32 km turn left onto a smaller road to the village and get a boat accross the river.
Pak Ou – Eagle Wall
73
74
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
Mind the Bees 5.13 a
Be here lao (no bolts) 5.10 c
Looks easy but... 5.12 6
Aniyakata 5.12 a
Choosy, Choosy 5.11 c
Bhuntahn 5.12 c
Mind the Lao Lao 5.7
32nd Soul 5.13 a
5.10 b
Mr. Thavidet 5.12 6
Mind the stilts 5.11 a
Mind the owl 5.10 d
Phu Si Galore 5.10 b
All routes done by a group of American climbers around Dan Morris and Will Hair
in 1999.
75
Rock climbing
in
Thakhek
(Khammouan Province)
76
General Information
Currently there are 2 climbing areas in the Khammouan Province. A
French Group of climbers bolted 2 areas in the Kong Lor Cave Valley,
near Sala Hinbourn in 2006. In 2009/2010 we came to Thakhek as a
big group of 17 climbers and, again with the great help of Green Discovery Laos und exspecially Inty Deansavan, got the permission to climb
and bolt. A big equipped cliff was the consequence....
To go to Thakhek take the local bus from Vientianne down the Rd 13 to
Thakhek (About 350 km) . There are a bunch of guest houses, nevertheless
the best placeto stay is definately „Inthira Hotel“. Check out their web
page. There will be a Green Discovery office soon, and climbing courses
availiable. Ist a great place to be if you are tired of stoned tubers and
drunken and rude „Farang“ from Vang Vieng, as we are!
Volker Schöffl 2010
77
Thakhek - Pha Tam Kam
Access: The climbing site is 12 km east of town, directly next to
the route 12 to Vietnam. Leave Thakhek east on the second
roundabout from town and go 12 km. After a short windy section
of the rode turn right onto a littele dirt road with a gate. The
climbing area is on private ground! Please respect that. The owner
is a very nice guy who allows us to climb and trespass. That does
not include free camping or leaving your garbage etc!. Opposite
side of the road is a very nice an mysthic Buddha Cave.
To go to the climbing you can hire motorbikes or a Tuk-tuk. Close
to the cliff is also Tha Falang, a very nice swimming site which
was allready used in the French Colonial times. For bolting new
routes, exspecially new crags you need to contact Green Discovery,
to get the Permit deals completed. The climbing site is in the shade
for most of the day, routenames are written on the wall.
© Volker Schöffl
78
Buddha Cave
Tha Falang
Rd12 to Mahaxai
12 km
Rocks
Climbing
Rd13 to Vientiane
Rd13 to Pakse
Thakhek
© Volker Schöffl
79
Sector
Hilton
Trail to the back side
entrance of Tam Kam
Elephant
Roof right side
Roof left side
Honeymoon
Schöffl Block
Methan
Road
© Volker Schöffl
80
Pha Tam Kam
2009/10
81
Pha Tam Kam - Sector Hilton
5
4
1
2
3
6
7
8
82
© Volker Schöffl
Pha Tam Kam - Sector Hilton
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Potatohead, 7b+/7c 10 m (Carsten Seidel, James Nichols, redpoint James Nichols, Jan 2010)
Short, tricky and cruxy
Special Forces, 7c+ 18m (Carsten Seidel, James Nichols, redpoint James Nichols, Jan 2010)
Brilliant technical climb with a crux in the first section and another one just before the anchors
Red Ants, 6b+, 18m (Isabelle Schöffl, Carsten Seidel, James Nichols, Jan 2010)
Hoi cleaned the bush with a million red aints trying to eat us,
Fried Brit 6b, 25m (James Nichols, Carsten Seidel, Jan 2010)
Up the long stalagtite line
Deep fried Brit, 6c+, 28m (James Nichols, Carsten Seidel, Jan 2010)
Second pitch to Fried Brit
Mon General 6c, 25m (Carsten Seidel, James Nichols, Jan 2010)
One of the best and an absolute must!
Schöffl Tours, 6a 25m (Carsten Seidel, James Nichols, Jan 2010)
A homage or a slam against the organizers ?
Sissi, 5b 18m (Antje and Thorsten Bauer, redpoint Antje Bauer, Jan 2010)
Who wouldn´t want to dance it up like Sissi and Franz
83
© Volker Schöffl
Pha Tam Kam - Sector Elephant
13 14
15
16 17
18
11 12
4
1 2 3
5
6
7 8
9 10
84
© Volker Schöffl
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Kam, 5c 17m (Hoi, Jan 2010)
The route to the left side, up and a little left, not too step and good for beginners.
Piece of Cake , 5b, 15m, 4, 12m (Hoi, Jan 2010)
A little shorter than No.1.
Diamonds are a girls best friend, 3+, 12m (Nina Klitzke)
Between Night ad day, 6b+, 20m (Peter Seidel, Jan 2010)
Up to a long line of stalagtites, continuing above them to the left.
Dancing butterflies, 5c, 18m (Nina Klitzke, Peter Seidel, redpoint Nina Klitzke
Jan 2010)
Very nice climb, which starts together with No.3 and goes right
Sunrise, 6a, 20m (Peter Seidel, Jan 2010)
Looks much harder than it is - if you get the sequence right
Priapismus, 6a 20m (Holger Heuber, redpoint Dorothea Lehmann, Jan 2010)
Whatch out so you don´t get stuck....
Klitoritis, 6a 20m (Holger Heuber, redpoint Mathias Stöcker, Jan 2010)
Couple Stress, 5c 18m (Hoi, Jan 2010)
Husband, 6a 18m (Hoi, Jan 2010)
Little Elephant, 5c 15m (Nina Klitzke, Jan 2010)
85
© Volker Schöffl
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
Rambo Girl, 5c, 15m (Isabelle Schöfll, Jan 2010)
Kleiner Wixer, 5c 15m (Isabelle Schöffl, redpoint Dorothea Lehmann Jan 2010)
Jungle Drum, 6a+, 16m (Dorothea Lehmann, Jan 2010)
Das Geschwür, 6a+ 16m, (Christian Rudel, Jan 2010)
It´s raining man, 6b+ 16 m(Isabelle Schöffl, Jan 2010)
Sinterorgie, 6a, 18m (Mathias Stöcker, Jan 2010)
Sorry no have, 6b+, 13m (Dorothea Lehmann, Jan 2010)
86
© Volker Schöffl
Pha Tam Kam - Sector Roof Left Side
1.
Nid toi, Nid moi 7b, 27m (Isabelle and Volker Schöffl, repoint Isabelle, Jan 2010)
A overhanging wall climb at the start, leading to a a good rest, another overhanging
section to the second no hand rest. Then straight up and left through the steep top
wall. Just brilliant!
1
87
© Volker Schöffl
Pha Tam Kam - Sector Roof Right Side
2
1
3
4
5
6
88
© Volker Schöffl
Pha Tam Kam - Sector Roof Right Side
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Monkey Start 6b+, 12m (Peter Seidel, Volker Schöffl, Jan 2010)
Monkey Trail 7c+, 30m (Volker Schöffl, Jan 2010)
After the short access pitch, which is also an independent climb (No.2) take a good
rest and continue right traversing the monkeys band. Than just another 18m of
horizontal roof climbing with good knee bars and hooks. An absolute must to
become a monkey.
To Bobby 6c+, 20m (Volker Schöffl, Jan 2010)
Dedicated to our great companion of past trips Bobby Modell.
The first section is much easier than is expected, leading to a steep crux higher up.
Cheeky Fucker 7a, 22m (Florian Muth, Uli Schwarz, redpoint Florian Muth, Jan
2010)
Steep and long and endurancy... Great fun!
Frechdachs 6b+, 17m (Uli Schwarz, Jan 2010)
Uli rated it 6a+, so Kurt Albert needed to upgrade a route for the first time in his
life, thus he said 6c. But to be consistent with his downgrading he also downgraded
it again later to 6b+. Find out yourself.
Schwing dei Ding 7b, 20m (Matthias Stöcker, Jan 2010)
Another brilliant and steep climb!
89
© Volker Schöffl
Pha Tam Kam - Sector Honeymoon
1
2
3
4
Sektor Schöffl Block 5m
90
© Volker Schöffl
Pha Tam Kam - Sector Honeymoon
1.
2.
3.
4.
Honeymoon 5c, 18m (Isabelle Schöffl, Thorsten Bauer, redpoint Thorsten Bauer, Jan 2010)
The route on the left side, up along the crack line.
Full Metal Jacket 6a, 17m (Antje and Thorsten Bauer, redpoint Thorsten Bauer, Jan 2010)
You can find a full metal jacket left side of the 3rd bolt, part of the shell around the bullet
hole is still there! A great climb and nice and smooth jugs.
Endurance Run 6a, 18m (Antje and Torsten Bauer, redpoint Thorsten Bauer, Jan 2010)
Just to the right, almost as good as the one before.
Driving School 6b, 20m (Antje and Torsten Bauer, redpoint Thorsten Bauer, Jan 2010)
Trickey start and a little harder then 2 and 3.
91
© Volker Schöffl
Pha Tam Kam - Sector Schöffl Block
1
2
3
Sektor Honeymoon 10 m
4
5
92
© Volker Schöffl
Pha Tam Kam - Sector Schöffl Block
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Pieds`d elephant 6c, 20m (Isabelle Schöffl, Jan 2010)
Steep and brilliant endurance climb. Starts up a few stalagtites which look like elephant
feet and continues left up along the overhanging edge.
Sound of Music 7a+/7b (Isabelle Schöffl, Jan 2010)
Absolute great climb, continuing steep and up with large jugs to the lip and a good hook. Go
left around the corner with the crux moves. It´s definately one of the best routes there!
Dr. Isa 8a, 20m (Isabelle Schöffl, redpoint Florian Muth, Volker Schöffl)
3 boulder problems with good rests inbetween. The first is a technical slab move, the second
a single hard and long move! Great climb. After the second rest you can do a head jam-no
hand rest if you are stubborn enough as James Nichols when he flashed it.
Project 20m (Volker Schöffl)
The crux is roughly ftb 8a+/8b. So it will come down to a high grade if redpointed. Feel free
to climb it! The moves are great.
Projekt 12m (Florian Muth)
Also unfinished, but easier than No.4. As above feel free to redpoint and tell us about it.
93
© Volker Schöffl
Pha Tam Kam - Sector Methan
2
1
3
4
5
6
94
© Volker Schöffl
Pha Tam Kam - Sector Methan
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Mr. Methan`s Warm up 6b, 12m (Kurt Albert, Jan 2010)
Nice technical face climb
Mr. Methan 7b+/7c, 20m (Kurt Albert, Holger Heuber, redpoint Volker Schöffl, Jan 2010)
A perfect roof climb with the crux at the edge.
Stinkbombe 5c, 13m (Kurt Albert, Jan 2010)
Joines the anchor of No.1.
Soundcheck 6b, 22m (Matthias Stöcker, Jan 2010)
As all serious musicians Mr.Methan needs a proper soundcheck.
French Blow 7c, 10m (Volker Schöffl, redpoint Florian Muth, Jan 2010)
4 very bouldery moves lead to the blow.
Turbolader 7b, 18m (Matthias Stöcker, Jan 2010)
Don´t skip bolts at the first section as the little boulder on the back is quite close to you.
95
© Volker Schöffl
Khammouan Province
Sala Hinburn Valley - Kong Lor Cave
A group of French climbers equipped to cliffs in the Sala Hinburn Valley,
on the road to Kong Lor Cave. Kong Lor Cave is 7 km long and you can go
through it in a small boat, which is pretty cool for a rest day. It also has
a perfect natural swimming place. You can stay either in Guesthouses on
the Rd. 8 or in the very nice Sala Hinbourn Lodge (website). The French
climbers have their topos on the internet, i am just copying their information
here, to have this guide complete.
The website is very good, detailed and gives exact information about
access etc.: http://www.laosclimbing.com
96
http://www.laosclimbing.com
97
© Climb One Expedition 2006
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More Information
On Rock Climbing in Laos:
On Climbing Medicine:
101

Untitled - Klettern

Transcription

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