małopolska - Małopolski System Informacji Turystycznej

Małopolska
Customs and traditions
Małopolska
 8 UNESCO sites
 250 attractions on the Wooden Architecture Route
 Wadowice – town of birth of Pope John Paul II
 Salt mines in Wieliczka and Bochnia
 9 spa resorts
 6 national parks
 4 geothermal pools
 Rafting down the Dunajec gorge
 2600 km of bicycle trails
 3360 km of mountain trails
 250 ski runs
www.visitmalopolska.pl
EUROPEAN UNION
EUROPEAN REGIONAL
DEVELOPMENT FUND
Project co-financed by the European Union
within the Malopolska Regional Operational Programme 2007–2013
Rejkiawik
Małopolska
IS
Capital of the region: Kraków
Major cities: Tarnów, Nowy Sącz, Oświęcim
Surface area: 15,190 km2 (about 5% of the surface area of Poland)
Population: 3.28 mil. (about 8% of the population of Poland)
Landscape:
 the tallest peak – Rysy: 2499 m asl
 mountains – Tatras, Beskids, Pieniny, Gorce
 foothills – Carpathian Foothills
 uplands – Kraków-Częstochowa Upland
 lowlands – Vistula valley
 main rivers – Vistula, Dunajec, Poprad, Raba, Skawa, Biała
ater reservoirs – Czorsztyński, Rożnowski, Czchowski, Dobczycki,
w
Klimkówka
 t he highest located, cleanest lakes – Morskie Oko, Czarny Staw, the lakes
of the Valley of Five Polish Lakes
 t he largest and deepest cave – Wielka Śnieżna Cave: over 22 km
of corridors, 824 m deep
FIN Helsinki
S
Oslo
N
RUS
EST
Ryga
Dublin
LV
DK
IRL
LT
Kopenhaga
GB
RUS
Paryż
Berlin
Warszawa
PL
D
L
Praga
Luksemburg
Wiedeń
FL
Berno Vaduz
E
Andora
UA
Bratysława
Monako
San
Marino
MC
V
Kiszyniów
H
RO
Zagrzeb
HR
RSM
I
Madryt
MD
Budapeszt
A
Lublana SLO
P
Kijów
KRAKÓW
CZ
SK
F
Lizbona
Mińsk
BY
Amsterdam
Bruksela
B
AND
Wilno
NL
Londyn
CH
Publisher
Department of Tourism, Sport and Promotion
at The Office of the Marshal of the Małopolska Province
Regional Tourism Information System Team
ul. Basztowa 22, 31-156 Kraków
[email protected]
www.visitmalopolska.pl
Tallin
Sztokholm
SRB
Sarajewo
MNE
Rzym
Bukareszt
Belgrad
BIH
Podgorica RKS
Tirana
Sofia
Priština
Skopje
BG
MK
AL
GR
TR
Ateny
M
Text
Krzysztof Bzowski
Photos
P. Droździk, M. Flis, R. Korzeniowski, J. Michalczak, P. Mierniczak, A. Otrębski, A. Pilch-Ziobroń, M. Zaręba, D. Zaród, iStockPhoto.com photo archive, UMWM photo archive;
R. Kularska-Król (drawing)
Publishing
Amistad Sp. z o.o. – Program
ul. Stolarska 13/7, 31-043 Kraków
tel./faks: + 48 12 4229922
[email protected], www.polskaturystyczna.pl
Production management: Agnieszka Błaszczak, Małgorzata Czopik
Project coordination: Katarzyna Thor
Publishing concept: Anna Niedźwieńska
Editor: Aurelia Hołubowska
Proofreading: Agnieszka Szmuc
Cover design, graphic design: PART SA
Maps: Wydawnictwo Kartograficzne Daunpol sp. z o.o.
Typesetting, preparation for print: Michał Tincel
Translation and proofreading: EuroInterpret Dominik Moser
Kraków 2010, ISBN 978-83-61355-83-0
The authors and publishers have made every effort to ensure the text is accurate, however, they cannot
be responsible for any changes that took place after the materials have been prepared for publishing.
Materials prepared as of 29 October 2010.
Wysowa-Zdrój
MAŁOPOLSKA
Customs and traditions
V
isiting Małopolska is a unique opportunity to see real highlanders wearing their folk
costumes: woollen trousers with the embroidered parzenice, a hat with a feather, and the
characteristic shoes called kierpce. One can also admire the rakish Kraków folk costumes with an exquisite
peacock feather attached to a red, four-cornered cap,
as well as the glistening bodices and flowery skirts. But
there is much more to the traditional culture of the region than just folk costumes. There are a number of
original religious rituals and customs, which are still
cultivated by the locals during important festivals. The
legends and tales about the olden days, as well as the
mysteries and ghosts, are part of the rich cultural heritage of Małopolska. Other important components of
this heritage are local products and original local dishes created with their use.
The still existing folk culture is the strongest expression
of the variety of Małopolska, whose every region has
its own particular costumes, customs, traditions, dishes and delicates.
fot. D. Zaród
folk
costumes
Folk costumes
Everyone must have seen at one point the famous costume of a Cracovian, with a peacock feather
proudly attached to a four-cornered cap, or a highlander’s hat rimmed with shells and adorned with
a feather. Richly sequined bodices, thick strings of beads, vividly coloured skirts, meticulously embroidered parzenice on the highlander’s trousers… The folk costumes of Małopolska sparkle with boldest
colours and amaze with their variety of design and ornamentation. The most famous folk costumes
are worn by the Cracovians and the highlanders from Podhale. Very different traditions were cultivated by the Lemkos and the Rusyns from Beskid Sądecki and the Low Beskids. Still different costumes
were worn by the highlanders of Spisz, Orawa and Lachów, near Nowy Sącz.
The Cracovians are famous for their costumes. The traditional man’s costume consisted of a white
linen shirt and red-striped trousers tucked into high boots. The top was a black or dark navy blue tunic,
adorned with red weeds and metal circles, girded with a belt and covered with a long, white, woollen
russet coat with a red-weed pattern. The costume was complete with a celender hat, a woollen magierka cap or the characteristic red-cornered cap with a peacock feather and colourful ribbons. Women, in turn, used to wear a white embroidered blouse and a black or navy blue bodice, which was the
most ornamental element of the costume – adorned with wide, colourful ribbons, buttons and fancywork. They would put on a flowery skirt and a white embroidered tulle apron on a white petticoat,
and high boots on their feet. The costume of a married woman was complete with shawls, whereas
maidens appeared with their hair uncovered and arranged in a long plait.
The Lendians inhabit a major part of the Beskids and the area around Nowy Sącz in particular. Their
costume is very original, although not very well known – it combines elements of the Kraków and the
highlander costumes. It is characterised by its ornamental richness. Men used to wear navy blue trousers and embroidered tunics with numerous brass bosses and coloured woollen weeds. Underneath,
they wore a white shirt girded with a wide highlander-style leather belt, or sometimes with a highlander’s stud. Women wore velvet bodices and skirts, usually of navy blue colour.
The Lemkos from the Low Beskids and the Nowy Sącz area created a completely different costume.
Men wore the so called czucha – a long, brown linen overcoat with a characteristic fringed back collar.
Underneath, they used to put on a short navy blue waistcoat, a white shirt and white trousers. Women,
in turn, would wear thin white shirts with colourful embroideries around the collar and the cuffs, navy
blue or black bodices with embroidered flower-patterns. The percale skirts were dark and decorated
with vertically arranged colourful ribbons. The last component of their costume were kierpce shoes.
An ornament of the Lendian costume, photo by P. Droździk
The costume of the Lendians from Podegrodzie, photo by P. Droździk
Cracovians, photo by D. Zaród
2
3
folk
costumes
The highlanders from Podhale, who live at the foot of the Tatra Mountains, are very proud of
their beautiful traditional costume. That is why Podhale is the place where folk costumes are so commonly seen. And a marvellous sight it is, too! Women wear meticulously crafted flat leather shoes
(known as kierpce), colourful skirts with a linen apron and a petticoat underneath. A linen shirt with
white embroidery is covered with a red or black velvet bodice, often adorned with coloured embroidery presenting a carline or a Turk’s cap lily. Finally, there are the obligatory thick strings of beads and
a sheepskin coat for when it gets cold. Men put on a white shirt with an ornamental metal collar stud
and a waistcoat called gunia or a loose woollen jacket known as cucha – both ornamentally embroidered. A wide leather belt, which used to serve as a pocket for pistols, holds up the white cloth trousers with a black stripe and the decorative embroideries called parzenice. The costume is complete
with the leather kierpce, a cane called ciupaga and a black felt hat adorned with shells and a feather.
The highlanders from Pieniny wear a white shirt, a glaring-blue, richly embroidered waistcoat
and the traditional white trousers with parzenice. The last necessary element of the costume is a black
hat with a little strap imitating a string of shells. In the past, highlanders also used to put on a white or
brown embroidered cucha as an overgarment. The traditional woman’s costume was similar to those
worn in other regions. Its characteristic elements included a white shirt with a large embroidered collar, a black or red bodice, a flowery skirt, embroidered aprons and the kierpce shoes.
Babiogórcy, the highlanders from the area around Zawoja, used to wear white trousers with much
more modest parzenice and brown, knee-long gunie, worn as an overgarment. Women wore navy blue
skirts with a little white pattern and the so-called jadwiśka – a close-fitting jacket. On the other side
of the Babia Góra mountain, in Orawy, women used to wear elbow-sleeved blouses with a wide lace
frill around the cuff and neckline. They also gladly put on bodices and skirts made of the same flower-patterned material. Here men also wore white trousers with parzenice, as well as a black waistcoat
with white buttons and a brown gunia.
Kierpce shoes, photo by P. Droździk
The highlanders from Spisz, also known as Spiszacy, live east of Podhale. Their costumes vary
a lot, even from village to village. However, they used to wear white trousers with parzenice, a waistcoat and a russet coat here as well. Women and girls wore white tops (whose sleeves were often embroidered) and the characteristic bodices with U-shaped necklines. High-top boots were generally
Highlanders, photo by P. Droździk
An element of the Highlanders’ costume, photo by P. Droździk preferred to kierpce.
Highlanders, UMWM photo archive
4
5
Regional
traditions
Regional traditions
Lajkonik – the famous Kraków hero on a hobby horse – is one of the most recognisable symbols of
Małopolska. Its popularity is partly due to the annual march from the district of Zwierzyniec to the
Market Square, which takes place eight days after Corpus Christi. A red-legged bearded man holding
a mace rides a colourful horse down the main streets of the city. Everyone who gives him money receives a pat on the head, which is believed to bring luck for the whole year. Even though nowadays
Lajkonik is seen as a funny character in disguise, the origins of the tradition date back to the Tatar invasions, which in the 13th century reached as far as Kraków.
Hejnał mariacki (also known as the Heynal) is another beautiful and still cultivated tradition, which has
its origins in the Tatar invasions. Every hour in the highest tower of St. Mary’s Church (kościół Mariacki) in
Kraków, a fireman plays on a trumpet the characteristic melody in all four directions, with the last tune invariably interrupted. Legend has it that when the Tatar warriors were approaching the city, they were only
spotted by one bugler-fireman. He blew his trumpet, but he never managed to finish the melody, as he
died pierced with a Tatar arrow…
Koronka z Bobowej (Lace from Bobowa) – Lace-making is one of the most beautiful handicraft tradi-
tions of Małopolska. For some years now, Bobowa has specialised in the difficult process of the production of bobbin lace, which is more subtle and prettier than the more commonly manufactured crochet
lace. The artistry and ingenuity of the local lacemakers is so impressive that people come to Bobowa
to take part in lace-making workshops. The town also organises the annual Lace Festival in Bobowa.
Szopka Krakowska (Kraków nativity cribs) – Kraków is famous for its extraordinary tradition of
Lajkonik, photo by R. Korzeniowski
Kraków nativity cribs, photo by D. Zaród
Lace from Bobowa, UMWM photo archive
A Kraków nativity crib, photo by M. Zaręba
6
7
building nativity cribs (the so called szopki krakowskie). The tradition dates back to the late 19 th century and was started by the brick-layers from the suburbs of Kraków, who in the wintertime had to look
for alternative jobs. Since the 1930s, the city has organised an annual competition of nativity cribs on
the first Thursday of December. The event is held under the patronage of the Historical Museum of
Kraków. On a foggy morning, the participants bring their works to the monument of Adam Mickiewicz in the Main Square. All cribs need to contain elements of Kraków’s historic architecture. They are
later on exhibition at the Historical Museum.
Regional
traditions
The contest for the most beautifully painted cottage is organised each year in Zalipie on
the first Sunday after Corpus Christi. It is therefore worth visiting this little village near Dąbrowa Tarnowska on that particular day. Zalipie is known for its over one-hundred-year-old tradition of decorating houses with colourful flower patterns against white background. The murals cover the walls of
houses, outbuildings (even wells and kennels!), as well as the interiors of rooms, domestic appliances and furniture. The women of Zalipie also craft embroidered costumes, bedcovers, tablecloths and
many other decorations. Thanks to the above-mentioned contest, it is possible to keep up the old tradition not only in Zalipie, but also in the neighbouring villages.
Redyk – a festive march of shepherds and their flocks – sets out in the spring from the villages of Podhale.
As winter was coming to an end and the grazing lands were turning green, senior shepherds (known as bacowie) together with their helpers (called juhasi) gathered all the sheep and set off towards mountain pastures. The grazing period began on 23 April and continued until 29 June. The most important march had its
beginning in the sanctuary of Gaździna Podhala in Ludźmierz. Nowadays, every year on 23 April the sanctuary organises the Feast of the Senior Shepherds (Święto Bacowskie). Another famous redyk takes place in
Jaworki. The march is organised in July and is accompanied by a number of events, competitions and food
tastings. Another interesting reference to the sheep-grazing tradition is the Oscypek Cheese Trail. It connects 31 shepherd’s huts, where the oscypek (sheep’s cheese), as well as other delicacies – such as bryndza,
bundz, the żentyca whey and redykołki cheeses – are regularly manufactured. Food products made from
ewe’s milk can be bought directly from the baca in various shelters along the Trail.
The trail leads through a number of shepherd’s huts in the Tatras, including those in Kuźnice, Kalatówki, Droga pod Reglami
in Zakopane, in the Chochołowska and Kościeliska valleys, as well as on the Rusinowa Glade. More of them can be found in
Podhale: Bustryk, Baligówka, Leśnica, Gliczarów Górny, Biały Dunajec, Nowy Targ (near the airport), Ratułów, Murzasichle,
Brzegi and Białka Tatrzańska near Kotelnica; in Gorce: on the Hala Długa by Turbacz, in Zorymbek Wyżny, Kowaniec, as
well as in Konin (north of Gorce); in Pieniny: Czorsztyn and Jaworki; in Spisz: Dursztyn, Łapsze Wyżne and Niżne; in Orawa:
Zubrzyca Górna by Babia Góra; and in Beskid Sądecki (Wierchomla).
Painted flowers – Zalipie, photo by D. Zaród
Redyk, UMWM photo archive
A painted cottage in Zalipie, UMWM photo archive
8
9
More information about the trail can be found on: /www.tatry.pl. For some amusing trivia
about the production of the oscypek, go to: /www.oscypek.wrotamalopolski.pl.
Regional
traditions
Calendar of selected local events
Event
Location
Date
Website
Description
Highlander’s Carnival
Bukowina
Tatrzańska
February
www.domludowy.pl
attractions include: carol-singing competition, dancing
shows, traditional highland dance competition, sleigh
races (kumoterki)
Great Tatra May Picnic
Zakopane
1–3 May
www.tatry.pl
attractions include: performances of regional bands
(Tatra Children Regional Band Festival), redyk, display of
smiths’ and carpenters’ skills
Blossoming Apple Tree
Festival
Łącko
first half of May
www.swieto.lacko.
org.pl
a traditional event in Łącko (centre of the great orchard
region), presentation of the local folklore and customs
Kraków Archaeology
Picnic
Kraków-Branice
end of May
www.ma.krakow.pl
event organised by the Kraków Museum of Archaeology: history-themed meetings, presentations of scenes from the olden days, fight performances, archaeology workshops
Folk Toys Festival
Stryszawa
May/June
www.stryszawa.pl
festival celebrating the local tradition of folk toys; best
folk toy competition, folk band performances
Salt Festival
Wieliczka
beginning of June
www.muzeum.wieliczka.pl
picnic organised by the Kraków Saltworks Museum,
outdoor salt-mining presentations, craftsmen’s workshops, sale of salt-made souvenirs in jatka solna, etc.
Wreaths
Kraków
end of June
www.wianki.krakow.pl
a great outdoor event referring to the tradition of the
feast of St. John the Baptist: St. John’s fair, outdoor concerts, wreath competition
Tatra Summons
(Tatrzańskie Wici)
the Tatra District
July – beginning of
September
www.tatry.pl
a series of outdoor folklore events, including: a march
of the highland robbers (Harnasiowy Korowód), a staging of a traditional highlander wedding, competitions
for shepherds, Miss Highlander contest, etc.
International Children’s
Regional Bands Festival
(Highlander Children’s
Feast)
Nowy Sącz
end of July
www.mcksokol.pl
a week-long review of bands from all over the world
with an inaugural march of all participants
Lemko Watch Fire
(Łemkowska Watra)
Zdynia
third or fourth week
of July
www.lemkounion.
republika.pl
an event that attracts the Lemkos from around the
world: concerts, workshops, exhibitions and meetings
celebrating the Lemko culture and tradition
Story-Telling Festival
(Sabałowe Bajania)
Bukowina
Tatrzańska
mid-August
www.domludowy.pl
competitions in story-telling, contests for instrumentalists, singers, groomsmen and masters of ceremonies
International Festival
of Highland Folklore
Zakopane
last week of August
www.mffzg.pl
a great competition for international folklore groups
Babia Góra
Autumn Festival
(Jesień Babiogórska)
Zawoja
end of September
www.zawoja.pl
attractions include: performances by local bands, welcoming the redyk on its way back from mountain pastures, handicraft and folk art market
Folk Toys Festival in Stryszawa, photo by P. Droździk
10
11
LegendS
Legends
The long and vivid history of Małopolska found its expression in dozens of interesting legends. Some are
based on authentic events from the region’s dim and distant past, and some on totally invented stories,
whose origins date back to folk beliefs and even primeval pagan traditions. Legends and folk tales account
for the meanings of the names of local places, as they talk about distant times when villages and towns were
only beginning to emerge. A number of legends explain the origins of bizarre monadnocks, which are a
common sight in Małopolska. There are also folk tales devoted to the lives of the local saints and blesseds.
Of prince Krakus and the terrible dragon. The most famous local legend tells the story of prince
Krakus, the legendary founder of the city, and the terrible dragon that lived in a cave in the Wawel
hill. The beast used to devour cattle and whenever his portion was refused, it would hunt for people
instead. Nobody was able to face it, not even the brave sons of Krakus. One day, a shrewd shoemaker
named Skuba stuffed ram’s fur with sulphur and put it outside the dragon’s cave. When the beast devoured the “ram”, a fire immediately started in his viscera. The dragon wanted to put it out with the
water from Vistula, but having drunk too much of it, he soon burst into little pieces. (A different version of the legend presents prince Krakus himself as the conqueror of the dragon.)
Of the knights turned into pigeons. This interesting legend explains the origins of the pigeons pop-
ulating Kraków’s market place. When the princely throne was taken over by Henry IV Probus, he desired to
set out to Rome and collect a royal crown. As he did not have the money, one witch offered to help him. She
transformed his knights into a flock of pigeons, but promised that they would recover their human form when
the prince returns with the crown. The pigeons pecked the stones from the market place, which then turned
into golden coins. The prince, however, feasted away all the money on the way to Rome and never eventually
reached the destination… His knights-turned-pigeons to this day await their prince in Kraków’s Market Square.
Of Kinga’s ring. For hundreds of years salt has been extracted from beneath the ground in the Kraków
area, i.e. in Wieliczka and Bochnia. Where do these deposits of salt come from? The answer to this question is contained in a beautiful local legend. When the Hungarian queen Kinga (also known as Cunegunda) was to come to Kraków in order to marry prince Bolesław V the Chaste, she decided to offer her new
homeland a precious gift. She dropped her engagement ring into a Hungarian salt mine. When she arrived
in Małopolska, she ordered the workers to dig in the place of the future Wieliczka salt mine (or the one in
Bochnia, as another version of the legend has it). Much to the surprise of all the people present, a block
of salt with Kinga’s ring inside it was extracted from the ground. This is how the queen offered her new
subjects an abundance of salt.
Of the Peasants’ King. Legend has it that Casimir III the Great used to wander around villages disguised
as a poor man in order to learn about the life of his poorest subjects. One day, the tattered wanderer was
received by a poor but friendly host. The peasant complained that he could not find anybody who would
agree to be his child’s godfather, so the “pauper” volunteered. They arranged to meet the following day to
go to the church together. The next morning, the king appeared together with his illustrious entourage in
front of the cabin. The astounded host recognised the king as his yesterday’s guest. The king kept his promise: he became godfather to the child and offered the infant a pouch full of golden coins.
Of the sleeping Tatra knights. When one looks at Tatra Mountains from Zakopane, one of the most
Wawel Dragon, drawing by R. Kularska-Król
Wieliczka – salt figures, UMWM photo archive
12
13
recognisable shapes is the majestic figure of the Giewont mountain. It looks very much like a silhouette
of a sleeping man. According to the legend, this person is a sleeping knight or a king, whose squad lies
under a spell somewhere in the secret caves underneath the mountain. When evil prevails in the world (or
when Poland finds itself in serious danger), Giewont will awake together with his squad and start fighting.
The festive
Małopolska
Easter
Easter, the celebration of the resurrection of Jesus Christ, is the oldest and most important Christian
festival. The way people celebrate Easter today owes a lot to the dozens of customs, traditions and
rituals, some of which have their origins in pre-Christian beliefs. As Easter always falls on the first Sunday after the first spring full moon, many of its customs and rituals are connected with the passage
from winter to spring.
Palm Sunday falls on the week preceding Easter and commemorates Christ’s triumphant entry
into Jerusalem. On that day, believers go to church carrying palms and bouquets of catkins, which
are not only a reminder of the events described in the Gospel, but also an expression of the old folktales about the spring rebirth and renewal. For that reason, Palm Sunday also used to be referred to
as Flower Sunday or Willow Sunday. On that day, boys with their faces blackened with soot (called
Pucheroki) wearing their sheepskin coat inside out and conical hats decorated with colourful tissue,
walk around in the morning down the streets of certain villages near Kraków (such as Zielonki, Bibice and Tomaszowice). The boys sing songs, wish others a happy Easter and are given pocket money
or Easter delicacies in return. This custom dates back to the old tradition of Cracovian students who
used to go around the townsmen’s flats.
The Holy Week begins after Palm Sunday and represents the time of awaiting Easter. Each day
has its own particular religious significance and symbolism, which is why a lot of believers visit the
church on each of those days. The Sanctuary of the Tomb of Jesus in Miechów is famous for its exceptionally ceremonious celebration of the Holy Week. On Palm Sunday, a procession with Christ riding
a donkey is performed; on Tuesday there is a special procession of the Stations of the Cross around
the town centre; the Good Friday procession marches along the cloisters of the monastery of the order of the Holy Sepulchre.
The Passion plays in the sanctuary in Kalwaria Zebrzydowska attract great numbers of pilgrims
and tourists. The celebration begins with a staging of Christ’s triumphant entry into Jerusalem on
Palm Sunday. On the evening of Holy Wednesday, one can watch the dramatic version of the pilgrims’
entry into the temple, Judas’ betrayal and the conference of the Sanhederin. Among the events commemorated on Maundy Thursday are: the ritual of washing the disciples’ feet, a procession to Gethsemane, the capture of Christ by the guards and the disciples’ escape to the palace of Caiaphas. The
Biblical story continues on Good Friday, when the ongoing performance comes to an end with Christ
being sentenced to crucifixion. What follows are the traditional Stations of the Cross. Less spectacular, but also worth mentioning, are the Passion plays staged in the Bernardine monastery in Alwernia.
Passion play in Kalwaria, photo by P. Mierniczak
Easter palms in Lipnica Murowana, UMWM photo archive
14
15
The festive
Małopolska
Easter eggs are traditionally prepared before Easter. The egg shells are first dyed using natural methods and then decorated in a variety of designs. There are workshops organised for those who wish to
learn about some of the traditional techniques of decorating. Such classes can be attended, among
other places, in Stryszawa (www.stryszawa.pl).
Holy Saturday, the last day of the Lent and the eve of Easter Sunday, is the time of joyful anticipa-
tion, when believers go to church to attend the ritual of the blessing of the foods (called święconka)
prepared for the festive Easter meal, which they carry in special little wicker baskets. Among the necessary components of every Easter basket are Easter eggs (a symbol of new life) and a lamb made of
sugar or dough, which symbolises the martyred Christ. Most people also add a slice of all kinds of specially prepared ham, a pinch of salt and a slice of bread.
Easter Sunday begins with a festive breakfast, during which all the delicacies from the blessed
basket are served. Consuming the blessed foods is a reference to the new life granted by the resurrected Christ. Among the traditional specialties served during dinner are the whey-based rye soup
(żurek), horseradish soup and cream-stained beetroot soup based on smoked bacon stock and served
with white sausage.
Wet Monday (also known as Śmigus-Dyngus) is celebrated on the day following Easter Sunday,
Easter tradition, photo by P. Droździk
Easter table, photo by M. Flis
Easter eggs, photo from iStockphoto.com
16
17
when girls were traditionally in danger of being sprinkled with water by the lurking boys. This tradition dates back to the pagan rituals connected with the symbolic spring act of cleansing of dirt and
disease. Another Easter Monday tradition is Siuda Baba, a man dressed as a woman – with a potato-rosary in his hands and his face blackened with soot – who roams the environs of Wieliczka. He
walks around churches accompanied by a soot-black gypsy with a whip. This tradition has its roots in
the legend about the pagan temple of the goddess Leda in Lednica Górna near Wieliczka. The holy
fire burning in the temple was sustained by a priestess performing her duties for the whole year. After one year elapsed, she went from house to house, her face black with soot, looking for a virgin who
could replace her. Nowadays, Siuda Baba also looks for girls, who then have to buy themselves out
with a coin and a kiss, which involves being smeared with soot…
The festive
Małopolska
Christmas
One of Christianity’s most important festivals, Christmas is celebrated on 25 and 26 December in commemoration of the birth (or incarnation) of Jesus Christ. In the Polish tradition, it is probably the most
beautiful festival with the most special family atmosphere. There are a number of irreplaceable customs and traditions, such as putting up an elaborately decorated Christmas tree, sharing the wafer,
exchanging wishes, carol-singing and presenting one another with gifts.
Christmas tree is the most important decoration of the Christmas period. It is usually adorned with
colourful glass balls and paper chains. Before the sun sets on Christmas Eve, people put out gifts for
the family, which, according to the local tradition, are brought by an Angel rather than the Santa Claus,
like in the rest of the country.
The Christmas Eve supper is a special meal, during which one can eat certain rare vegetarian dish-
es served only on that day of the year. Traditionally, there should be no less than twelve dishes. Among
the most commonly served dishes are: Ukrainian-style beetroot soup with mushroom-stuffed ravioli,
dried mushroom soup, fried carp (preferably the so-called karp zatorski), sauerkraut with chickpeas
and mushroom. The most traditional desserts are poppy seed with mixed dried fruit and nuts, dumplings with poppy seed, stewed dried fruit and different cakes.
Carol-singing is another tradition closely connected with Christmas. Carols are sung at home and
in church. One can also listen to performances of dressed-up carollers who go from house to house.
Among the masquaraders are usually carollers disguised as a turoń (a strange character with the head
of a ram or a goat), Father Christmas (walking at the front with a big star cut out from paper), the Magi,
a Jew, a Gypsy woman and musicians… Their singing is rewarded by small sums of money. If they do
not get any, they often misbehave!
Kraków’s Main Square – A Christmas fair,
photo by M. Zaręba
Christmas decorations, photo by M. Zaręba
Christmas tree, photo by A. Pilch-Ziobroń
18
19
Pasterka is a festive mass celebrated on the midnight between 24th and 25th December. It is one of
the crucial moments of Christmas celebrations. The residents of Kraków traditionally went to the city’s
most important church – St. Mary’s Basilica in the Market Square.
The festive
Małopolska
Events and festive traditions
Festival
Event
Place
Date
Easter
Easter Market
It is a good opportunity to buy some Easter delicacies, such as sponge cakes and different flavour mazurek cakes
Kraków (Market
Square)
March/April
(a week before
Easter)
Easter
Easter Trail
of Małopolska
The event is organised as part of the Małopolska Festival of Taste. The
many culinary attractions include: trying the Easter whey-based rye
soup (żurek), horseradish soup, different-style Easter eggs, sausages
(wiejska, krakowska, myśliwska), honey and liqueurs
Kraków
March/April
(a week before
Easter)
Easter
Tallest palm
competition
The competition attracts crowds, while the record-breaking palms,
decorated with colourful ribbons, green flowers and twigs, sometimes reach the height of 30 metres
Lipnica Murowana
March/April
(Palm Sunday)
Easter
Palm Baby Jesus
One can see a figure of donkey-riding Christ on a wooden pram during a procession which marches across the village of Tokarnia
Tokarnia
March/April
(Palm Sunday)
A festival of classical music, devoted to famous baroque composers
and strictly connected with the Holy Week and Easter celebrations
Kraków
March/April
(Holy Week)
Easter
“Misteria Paschalia”
Easter
Emmaus
A traditional church fair in remembrance of Christ’s journey to the town
of Emmaus after his resurrection. The stalls outside the Norbertine monastery or the Church of the Holy Saviour in Zwierzyniec offer, among
other things, the characteristic wooden figurines of the swinging Jews
Kraków
(the district
of Salwator)
March/April
(Wet Monday)
Easter
Rękawka
A church fair organised in Kraków near the church of St. Benedict and
at the foot of the Krakus Mound. This primeval tradition has pagan
origins and was connected with a cult of the dead
Kraków
(the district
of Podgórze)
March/April
(the first Tuesday
after Easter)
Christmas
Kraków’s most
beautiful crib
competition
Authors stand next to their works (cribs referring to Kraków’s most recognisable monuments, made of paper, cardboard and wood) on the
steps of the statue of Adam Mickiewicz in the Market Square. They
then march down to the Krzysztofory Palace, where the jury crowns
the three-day event with announcing the winners of the competition.
All the cribs remain on display until the end of January
Kraków (Market
Square)
The first Thursday
of December
Christmas
Christmas Fair
A fair during which you can buy various Christmas decorations, gifts
and Christmas Eve delicacies
Kraków (Market
Square)
December
Christmas
Małopolska’s
Christmas Eve Trial
This festival of Christmas dishes and delicacies is a great opportunity
to taste all the traditional culinary specialities of the region
Kraków (market
square)
December
Christmas
Angel in Town
Festival
This small and intimate thematic event centres around angels. Its major
attractions include: a traditional handicraft fair, a bygone country skills
workshop, artistic performances, concerts and visual arts exhibitions
Lanckorona
mid-December
Christmas
Podhale Carol
and Winter Song
Competition
The competition cultivates the tradition of the wandering carol-singers and is a great occasion to listen to beautiful Christmas songs
Nowy Targ
mid-December
Lanckorona, photo by A. Otrębski
20
Description
21
Local
delicacies
The best way to start exploring the taste of Małopolska is by trying its internationally famous smoked
cheese called oscypek. Crisp and subtle, redolent of specially selected wood and mountain meadows,
oscypek is made from ewe’s milk and is only manufactured in the Polish mountains. You also cannot
miss bryndza podhalańska, a fresh soft cheese with a characteristically pungent flavour.
A lot of original dishes and foodstuffs traditionally come from Kraków itself. During a visit to the capital of Małopolska, one has to taste the Kraków-style żurek and beetroot soup. Local bakers specialise in making ring-shaped, poppy-seed and salt covered obwarzanki and little golden crispy pretzels.
The former are seen by many as one of the symbols of Kraków. Chleb prądnicki (“prądnicki” bread)
is less known, although it has been baked since the 15th century, and a genuine loaf of such bread is
one metre long and weights in excess of 10 kg! Other specialities of Kraków include delicious cakes
and bagels from Kazimierz – rolls with a distinct hole in the middle, sprinkled with nigella, caraway,
poppy seed and salt.
Original bakery goods are not only Kraków’s speciality. Every gourmet will also appreciate jodłownicki
kołacz z serem (ring-shaped cake with cheese), the crumble-topped Jurassic kołacz or the oblong wheat
bun called kukiełka lisiecka. A good way to satisfy your hunger is to try the quern bread from Łomna
or Jurassic bread, which remains fresh for a long time thanks to one of its ingredients – potato flakes.
It is widely known that fresh bread tastes best with honey, when the crust and the soft inside of the
bread become soaked with sweetness originating from mountain apiaries. This is where the best
­honeydew honey is produced (the regions of Małopolska and Sądecczyzna).
Traditional local products also include salt from Wieliczka, ice-cream from Nowy Targ or the famous and healthy balsam kapucyński (Capuchin balm). As regards cheese and dairy products, one
should mention (alongside oscypek and bryndza) such delicacies as: redykołek (smoked cheese in
the shape of animals, a heart or a spindle), żentyca (whey made of ewe’s milk), ser gazdowski (the so
called gołka, pucok or kara; cheese made exclusively of cow’s milk) and bundz (mild, nutty and slightly sour loaf-shaped cheese).
As far as drinks are concerned, worth mentioning are the local alcoholic beverages, which include plum
vodkas called śliwowica łącka and śliwowica wyborna, as well as the mountain ash based jarzębiak
izdebnicki and the sweet jarzębinka.
Among the most interesting varieties of cured meat is kiełbasa lisiecka (“lisiecka” sausage), produced
in Liszki and Czernichów near Kraków. It is made of top-quality pork and smoked over aromatic smoke
from specially selected fruit tree wood. Other regional delicacies include Zator goose carcasses and
lamb meat from the Podhale.
You should also try fruit and vegetables, such as: “charsznicka“ sour cabbage, “Piękny Jaś“ butter
bean from the Dunajec valley, “łukowicka“ and “suska sechlońska“ prunes and the traditional varieties of apples from Raciechowice and Łącko.
Bryndza, photo by M. Flis
Kraków pretzels, photo by M. Flis
Oscypek, photo by P. Droździk
22
23
Finally, a very special delicacy: the “zatorski carp“ from the neighbourhood of Zator, where it has
been bred since the 12th century in the numerous ponds of the Carp Valley.
Local
delicacies
Recipes
Pierogi
Dough: 50 dag flour, 1 egg, 1.5 dag butter, 250 ml hot water, pinch of salt
Stuffing (pierogi may have different stuffings. They taste delicious with fruit – for example with strawberries and blueberries – but gourmets also love pierogi in the savoury version, with cabbage and
mushrooms, meat or, as shown below, buckwheat and bundz cheese): 25 dag bundz cheese, 25 dag
buckwheat, 2 onions, 1.5 dag lard, 10 dag bacon, salt, pepper, marjoram
Prepare the stuffing: Cook the buckwheat loose, add fork-crushed cheese and thinly sliced bacon fried
in onion. Add salt, pepper, marjoram and then stir it all.
Prepare the dough: Mix flour, half the amount of water and melted butter. Add egg and knead the dough,
gradually adding water. Roll out the dough and cut it into circles. Put a portion of the stuffing on each
circle, then stick together the edges of the dough. Cook pierogi for 8 minutes in boiling, salted water.
Charsznicki bigos
2 kg fresh white cabbage, 2 kg charsznicka-style sauerkraut, 1 l concentrated bouillon made of smoked
ribs, 1 kg pork or game, 50 dag myśliwska sausage, 50 dag smoked bacon, several dried forest mushrooms, 30 dag onion, 50 dag winey apples (Antonovka or russet), prunes, allspice, black pepper (not
ground), salt, bay leaf, caraway, juniper, thyme, marjoram, 0.5 l dry red wine
Add chopped fresh cabbage and sauerkraut to the bouillon together with peeled and diced apples.
Meat for bigos can be baked or boiled. The sausage needs to be chopped. Meat needs to be fried with
smoked bacon and chopped onion. Cut mushrooms (preferably steeped the day before) and boil gently. Then add meat, sausage and mushrooms to the bouillon, cabbage and sauerkraut. Season with
herbs and salt and stew everything together for 2–3 hours. Throughout the stewing process, add little portions of wine. (The whole process may take a few days if you stew bigos for 1–2 hours every day
and store it in a cold place, or even in the freezer, in-between the stewing sessions. Bigos is ready to
eat on the first day, but the more we stew it, the better it tastes!)
Moskole
1 kg potatoes, 1 glass buttermilk or sour milk, ½ kg flour, salt
Boil potatoes in their jackets, peel and grind them. Add flour, buttermilk and salt to taste. Knead the
dough, roll it out and shape oval centimetre-thick clumps. Bake gently on a tray or fry in a deeper pan.
Best served with garlic butter, bundz cheese or bryndza cheese.
Kołacz jodłownicki
Dough: 35 dag flour, 0.33 l milk, 10 dag fat, salt, sugar, 2 dag yeast
Cheese substance: 20 dag cottage cheese (twaróg), 3 eggs, 3 spoonfuls sugar, 1 spoonful potato flour,
raisins, aroma
Pierogi, photo by M. Zaręba
Moskole, photo by M. Zaręba
Kołacz jodłownicki, UMWM photo archive
Specialities of The Benedictines, photo by P. Droździk
24
25
Prepare the cheese substance: mix minced cottage cheese with sugar, eggs and flour.
Prepare the dough: make a leaven of yeast, warm milk and part of the flour. Leave it on the side to mature and double its size. Then add the rest of the flour, sugar and salt. Knead the dough once again
and shape a round 3–4 cm thick clump, slightly thicker round the edges. Spread the cheese substance
over it and add raisins. Bake at 190°C for 40–50 minutes.
Local
delicacies
Calendar of culinary events
Event
Place
Date
Website
Description
Małopolska Festival of Taste –
semi-final fairs
Kraków, Tarnów, Nowy
Sącz, Miechów,
Oświęcim,
Zakopane or
Nowy Targ
June–July
www.smak.malopolska.pl
a fair and a competition for the best traditional, local and
ecological products and dishes
Easter Taste
of Małopolska
Kraków
a week before Easter
www.smak.malopolska.pl
a fair of Easter dishes and delicacies; runs parallel to Easter
Market in the Market Square
Blossoming
Orchards Festival
Łososina Dolna
beginning of
May
www.lososina.pl
an aviation picnic connected with artistic performances
and air shows
Blossoming Apple-Tree Festival
Łącko
beginning of
May
www.swieto.lacko.
org.pl
a presentation of local cuisines and traditional fruit products, particularly the famously strong plum vodka, called
­śliwowica łącka
Fruit Picking
Festival
Łącko
May
www.owocobranie.lacko.org.pl
a presentation of the crop as well as the cultural achievements of the region, accompanied by performances by
­folklore bands
Bread Festival
Kraków
June
www.smak.malopolska.pl
a fair promoting the traditional bakery goods, organised
together with the semi-final of the Małopolska Festival
of Taste
Rajbrot Strawberry Festival
Rajbrot
beginning
of June
www.lipnicamurowana.pl
the area around Rajbrot is a real strawberry capital: apparently this is where the best Polish strawberries grow and
are made into a variety of specialities, which can be tasted
during the festival
Salt Festival
Wieliczka
June
www.muzeum.wieliczka.pl
an event organised by the Kraków Saltworks Museum: includes exhibitions, lectures and presentations about salt
Benedictine
Market
Kraków
second half
of June
www.benedicite.pl
a presentation of the delicacies manufactured by the Benedictine monks from Kraków; attractions include competitions, story-telling sessions and a fair
Carp Festival
Zator
first half
of July
www.okzator.com,
www.dolinakarpia.org
one of the many events organised as part of the Carp Valley Festival in Zator (the centre of the valley), where you can
try a variety of dishes made of carp and other fish from the
local ponds
Beekeeper’s Feast
Stróże
first half
of July
www.bartnik.pl
an unmissable opportunity to taste exquisite honeys and
honey-based products
Mountain Victuals
Łopuszna
mid-July
www.tischnerowka.pl
a competition for the best Podhale-style dishes; an opportunity to taste various mountain delicacies prepared by the
locals
Blueberry Feast
Zubrzyca
Górna
second half
of July
www.orawa.eu
an event combining folklore and ethnography, organised by
the Orawa Ethnographical Park
Prandocin
second half
of July
www.mgck.slomniki.pl
the area around the villages of Słomniki and Radziemice
is a traditional place of growing garlic. The garlic festival is
a great occasion to taste garlic-seasoned dishes, such as garlic soup, pig with garlic, various sausages and salads
Małopolska Garlic
Festival
Bread Festival, photo by M. Zaręba
26
27
Local
delicacies
Galician Pot (Kociołek Galicyjski)
Nowy Sącz
www.sp9.nowysacz.pl
culinary competition, tastings and a fair of local products
an opportunity to try various specialities made of fresh
­trout during the best fish dish competition
honey and honey-based product competition
Trout Festival
Biały Dunajec
end of July
www.bialydunajec.
com.pl
Feast of Bear,
Honey and
Beekepers
Poronin
mid-August
www.poronin.pl
Pierogi Festival
Kraków
mid-August
Małopolska
Festival of Taste
– finals
Kraków
last weekend
of August
a competition for the most delicious pierogi, prepared by
Kraków’s restaurateurs. The festival refers to the tradition
of pierogi-making on the feast of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary (15 August)
www.smak.malopolska.pl
Borzęcin Feast of
Mushroom
Borzęcin
last weekend
of August
www.borzecin.pl
as part of the Borzęcin Days celebrations, the local authorities organise the best mushroom dish competition designed for all agrotourism households; the neighbouring
spacious forests are famous for their abundance of edible
mushrooms
Kraków Honey
Harvest
Kraków
first half of
September
www.krakow.pl
a festival of beekeepers celebrated in Kraków’s Wolnica Square; a fair of apiarian products and lectures
Feast of Prune
Dobrociesz
first half of
September
www.sliwka.iwkowa.pl
a market of local products and a competition for the best
dish with prunes
Feast of Apple
and Pear
Czasław
second half
of September
www.raciechowice.pl
this event refers to the orchard traditions of the district of
Raciechowice and offers presentations of the local cuisine,
as well as numerous competitions
Charsznica
Cabbage Days
Charsznica
second
Sunday
of September
www.charsznica.info
the place is famous for its cabbage-growing tradition; a great occasion to taste, among other things, charsznicki bigos
made from the local cabbage
Feast of Beans
Zakliczyn
September
www.zakliczyn.iap.pl
this festival celebrates dishes made with local beans, prepared by Polish and international festival guests
Potato Day
Bogucin Duży
mid-September
www.gmina-klucze.pl
potatoes in every possible shape or form: baked, stewed,
boiled, cold and hot, in salads, cakes, soups…
Great Carp
Harvest
Zator
first half
of October
www.dolinakarpia.org
competitions for the best local product, tastings of the specialities of the Carp Valley, fishing shows
Festival of Cabański-Style Potatoes
Chrzanów
second half
of October
www.powiat-chrzanowski.pl
roasted cabański-style potatoes is the local speciality of the
Chrzanów region. The festival is the best occasion to taste
many varieties of the same original dish
Christmas-Eve Taste of Małopolska
Kraków
a week before Christmas
www.smak.malopolska.pl
a fair of Christmas dishes and delicacies during a Christmas
market in the Market Square
Pierogi Festival, photo by J. Michalczak
28
second half
of July
29
Notes
Małopolska
TouristTurystycznej
Information
Punkty
PunktyInformacji
Informacji
TurystycznejSystem Points
KraKów
InfoKraków, ul. Powiśle 11, 31-101 Kraków
\+48 513 099 688,
[email protected]
InfoKraków, ul. Św. Jana 2, 31-018 Kraków
\+48 12 421 77 87
InfoKraków, Os. Słoneczne 16,
31-958 Kraków
\+48 12 643 03 03
InfoKraków, ul. Józefa 7, 31-056 Kraków
\+48 12 422 04 71
InfoKraków Sukiennice,
Rynek Główny 1/3, 31-042 Kraków
\+48 12 433 73 10
InfoKraków Sanktuarium w Łagiewnikach,
ul. Siostry Faustyny 3, 30-608 Kraków
\+48 12 263 60 64
InfoKraków, ul. Szpitalna 25,
31-024 Kraków
\+48 12 432 01 10 InfoKraków Pawilon Wyspiański,
pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2, 31-004
\+48 12 616 18 86
InfoKraków Międzynarodowy Port
Lotniczy w Balicach, 32-083 Balice
\+48 12 285 53 41
Myślenice
Rynek 27, 32-400 Myślenice
\+48 12 272 23 12,
[email protected]
wiśniowa
Wiśniowa 301, 32-412 Wiśniowa
\+48 12 271 44 93,
[email protected]
Dobczyce
ul. Podgórska 1, 32-410 Dobczyce
\+48 12 271 01 53,
[email protected]
olKusz
ul. Floriańska 8, 32-300 Olkusz
\+48 32 72 43 282,
[email protected]
Miechów
Plac Kościuszki 1A, 32-200 Miechów
\+48 41 383 13 11,
[email protected]
Tarnów
Rynek 7, 33-100 Tarnów
\+48 14 688 90 90,
[email protected]
Tuchów
ul. Chopina 10, 33-170 Tuchów
\+48 14 652 54 36,
[email protected]
Dąbrowa TarnowsKa
ul. Polna 13, 33-200 Dąbrowa Tarnowska
\+48 14 657 00 07, [email protected]
waDowice
ul. Kościelna 4, 34-100 Wadowice
\+48 33 873 23 65, it.wadowice@msit.
malopolska.pl
anDrychów
Rynek 27, 34-120 Andrychów
\+48 33 842 99 36,
[email protected]
sucha besKiDzKa
ul. Zamkowa 1, 34-200 Sucha Beskidzka
\+48 33 874 26 05,
[email protected]
oświęciM
ul. St. Leszczyńskiej 12, 32-600 Oświęcim
\+48 33 843 00 91,
[email protected]
chrzanów
Aleja Henryka 40, 32-500 Chrzanów
\+48 32 623 20 44,
[email protected]
Trzebinia
ul. Kościuszki 74, 32-540 Trzebinia
\+48 32 612 14 97,
[email protected]
zaKopane
biały Dunajec
ul. Jana Pawła II 363, 34-425 Biały Dunajec
\+48 18 200 16 90,
[email protected]
białKa TaTrzańsKa
ul. Środkowa 16, 34-405 Białka Tatrzańska
\+48 18 533 19 59,
[email protected]
nowy Targ
Rynek 1, 34-400 Nowy Targ
\+48 18 266 30 36,
[email protected]
r abKa-zDrój
ul. Parkowa 2, 34-700 Rabka-Zdrój
\+48 18 269 15 53,
[email protected]
nowy sącz
ul. Szwedzka 2, 33-300 Nowy Sącz
\+48 18 444 24 22,
[email protected]
Krynica-zDrój
ul. Zdrojowa 4/2, 33-380 Krynica-Zdrój
\+48 18 472 55 77,
[email protected]
liManowa
Rynek, 34-600 Limanowa
\+48 18 337 58 00,
[email protected]
biecz
Rynek 1, 38-340 Biecz
\+48 13 447 92 47,
[email protected]
sęKowa
Siary 19, 38-307 Sękowa
\+48 18 351 87 70,
[email protected]
ul. Kościeliska 7, 34-500 Zakopane
\+48 18 201 20 04,
[email protected]
poronin
ul. Józefa Piłsudskiego 2, 34-520 Poronin
\+48 18 207 42 98,
[email protected]
wiTów
Witów 239A, 34-512 Witów
\+48 18 207 18 98,
[email protected]
31
Notes
32