WARHOLINCHINA: THENANDNOW

WARHOL IN CHINA:
THEN AND NOW
Diaosi: China’s
generation x
10
ISSN 1672-8025
music: a school
for scandal
mike tyson
国内统一刊号 CN 11-5232/GO
October 2013
that’s Beijing
《城市漫步》北京版 英文月刊
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October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
EDITOR’s note
October
Three on, three off, six on, one off, two on, seven off, five on, one off.
Yet another interminable riddle from the National Treasure series?
Certainly, it is a riddle: “It” being the holiday schedule, which reaches
a peak around Golden Week – October.
The schedule’s been called “retarded” by some (OK, make that
many); certainly, reform is long overdue. How can anyone get stuck
into serious patriotic reverie during National Week when they’re
worried about working the next day for a week straight, followed by
a day off, then...
Not so long ago, the government was a serious nanny state: even in
the 90s, one needed danwei permission to marry and divorce; marital accommodation was picked by your boss. Today, the young marry
and divorce just as quickly, while home ownership has become such
an urban obsession, it’s even given rise to ‘fake’ divorces.
But at least people are making poor choices of their own free will
now. That is progress, kinda. Yet the holiday schedule has remained
a form of management the mandarins refuse to yield control of.
Mid-Autumn is traditionally the 15th day of the eighth month of the
lunar calendar, when the moon waxes full – a Thursday this year,
which made for a nice idea: just run the holiday into the weekend
(which they did, except we still had to go to work Sunday: I just
played computer games, like everybody else).
The problem arose from the proximity to Golden Week, which
begins October 1: National Day. The ‘golden’ part began the tiger
economy crisis of ’97: to promote tourism and boost spending, the
powers that be added a day to the original holiday in 2000, to make
it a three dayer. Big deal.
So they came up with the wheeze of making it a full week – but
slipped a shiv between the ribs by asking us recoup ‘lost’ days by
working at the weekends. So it’s not really a holiday at all – it’s just a
manipulated version of one.
It worked, up to a point: millions spent billions on tourism, shopping and other economies, like real estate and weddings. But with
markets shut, overseas investors are free to make money, while sorry
Chinese businessmen must sit in their socks on a poolside lounger,
staring at ernai selfies on their Xiaomi smartphone. Maddening!
Join our
That’s
Beijing
team
Meanwhile, this motherlode hits creaky infrastructure like a tsunami:
hotels fill with annoying groups, train tickets vanish, public transport
becomes hellish (well, more than usual). Then when people return
to work, they’re less relaxed than when they left – worse, they have
something called post-holiday blues! That’s a thing now.
So we’re spending October in the empty ‘Jing, then relaxing next
month at the Thai villa – no endangered clam-eating groups in sight.
More tips on setting the world to rights next month, readers!
That’s Beijing
to
Letters or
the Edit
Correction
In our June 2013 edition we incorrectly spelt the General Manager of
Millennium Residencies Joe Ho, as 'Jo', we would like to apologize for
this mistake.
http://WWW.THATSMAGS.COM
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
3
THE WRAP
//41
POP tart
An in-depth look at Andy
Warhol’s first (and only) visit
to Beijing, way back in 1982,
to commemorate the largest
Warhol retrospective in Asia.
//8 CITY & NATION
//9 IRON MIKE
Former world heavyweight Tyson
avoids the chengguan during his
recent visit to the capital.
//16 DPRK VISA RUN
Having trouble renewing your
visa? Why not head over the
border at Dandong? Simon Cockerell talks us through the steps.
//20 LIFE & STYLE
//24 YAKKING ON
Forget cashmere, and yak down.
Sustainable brand Shokay on
why the humble fabric should
be our winter warmer.
//28 BUDDHIST BLISS
Inside the ultimate converted
hutong, designed by Italian
architect Andrea Destro.
//32 ARTS
//34 BLONDE AMBITION
Can a ditzy Englishwoman
with no experience cut it as a
DJ in China? Worryingly, yes...
//39 BUMP IN THE ROAD
Will a sex comedy about a road
trip with a mentally disabled
brother prove to be China’s Rain
Man – or car crash?
//48 EAT & DRINK
//52 BANTU
This new Sardinian restaurant
keeps things playful and light.
4
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
//57 THE BIG BITE
‘El Gran Bocado’ adds Southern
spice to Sanlitun’s hippest new
hood.
//10 You lose...
//14 buffalo blues //35 Zhu wen
//36 off key
Forget the rising dragon. Over
half the population identify
themselves as diaosi – losers –but
the reasons may surprise you.
In Huizhou, incomes are
improving, but lifestyles are
changing. A postcard records a
vanishing existence.
The country’s most prestigious
music schools are enveloped
in a sea of sexual scandal – can
the tide be turned?
Controversial satirist has a new
volume of scathing societal
portraits.
// QUOTE OF THE ISSUE
// 60 EVENTS
“It doesn’t maTter that a farmer’s
son graduates from a good
university. His future will still be
restricted, because he’ll always be a
farmer’s son.”
Dali Zi, the Li Yi forum editor on the ‘diaosi’ phenomenon
P.10
Win! Win! Win!
Tickets to see Peter Piek p.61, tickets to Skip & Die p.62,
tickets to Nite Jewel p.63; weekend brunch at Agua p.70,
voucher worth 300RMB for Scarlett p.70, seafood dinner
for two at Greenfish restaurant, The Ritz-Carlton Beijing,
Financial Street p.71. And much, much more...
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
5
CITY
THE BUZZ
Random Number
298
The years a widow in Taiwan
faces in jail for an affair with a
married man. Under Taiwanese
law, playing away from home is
worth up to four months in the
Big House. Judges used confessions from the pair to estimate
they had racked up a total of
894 trysts together. The 56-yearold woman, who was single
during the five-year affair, was
eventually told she must serve
298 years in jail or pay a fine of
TWD730,000 (RMB150,000). The
50-year-old man, meanwhile,
avoided legal punishment altogether, after his wife, who
had filed the original complaint
against the duo after learning of
the affair, decided to forgive him
and drop the lawsuit. The case
has sparked new calls for adultery to be decriminalized.
Meme of the Month
Quote of the month
“We need 100 healthy
female college students
as blood donors.
Any applicant should
meet the
requirements
of being a
virgin, and aged
between 18 and
24 years old.”
Peking University (PKU) Cancer Hospital sparked
outrage with a request for young female “virgins”
to participate in medical tests. Weibo comments such as “Male virgins are not needed...
how is this science?” were typical of the online response.
“Virgins” is a sensitive term; their bridal nubility is still the subject of fierce debate. Still,
using their blood for studying the human papillomavirus (HPV) acts as a control, since the
virus is mostly transmitted through sex, China Daily reported. “It’s in line with international
practice,” PKU spokeswoman Guan Jiuping explained. PKU was the subject of a recent sex
scandal, later dismissed in August 2012. The suggestion that staff may have an Elizabeth
Bathory-like fetish for virgins’ blood is clearly yet another scurrilous rumor. Best not retweet
it 500 times, then.
“Live” blogging
“Live” Blog (Verb)
To promise to faithfully blog
about an important event, then
either fail to do so or produce
an incomplete and/or delayed
version (cf: “Jinan style”)
Viz: “Are you going to that chugoff competition today at the
Great Leap?” “Oh yeah, boy. I’m
‘live’ blogging it.”
[Editor’s note: China recently
offered more transparency in
courts to bolster its rule of law.
Unfortunately, we have yet to
see this live-tweeting technology
rolled out across the country]
Chinese whispers
Looking into China’s urban myths: ‘Baby eaters’
The myth: Back in Xinhua’s
crosshairs thanks to the rumor
crackdown (see p.8) is the persistent claim that some wealthy
Chinese cannibalize unborn
fetuses. The most recent allegations were repeated in various
Korean media over the summer,
and claimed that some wealthy
Chinese are paying thousands of
dollars to buy aborted fetuses,
thus “enjoying baby herbal soup
to increase overall health and
stamina and the power of sexual
performance.”
The reality: This ‘blood libel’ is
as old as anti-Semitism – and
just as pernicious: in 1870, a
similar false rumor was spread
about the foreign nuns in a
French cathedral in one of the
Tianjin concession zones, sparking a fiery massacre that left at
least 16 nuns dead.
6
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
whose gruesome 2000 work,
entitled ‘Eating People,’ was
rejected by the Shanghai 2000
Bienniale as “too controversial.”
The artist claims he cooked (and
ate) aborted fetuses from a
medical school “for art’s sake.”
The ‘baby eating’ rumor has
flourished in China due, in
part, to a reputation, especially
among the Cantonese, for eating ‘everything.’ The country’s
one-child policy and high abortion rates is also commonly used
to back up the rumors, which
are usually based on anonymous sources and images found
on the Internet.
The latter are mostly the work
of conceptual artist Zhu Yu,
Verdict: The Chinese are no
more inclined to eat babies
than anyone else – including
Christians, Jews, ‘Gypsies,’ aborigines etc. Indeed, there’s no
proof that such a habit has ever
been practiced, ever, anywhere
on Earth. Unfortunately, widespread ignorance about China
abroad, coupled with the country’s reputation for both secrecy
and weirdness, keep this gruesome myth alive.
// Eager to prove or disprove a myth?
Contact [email protected] to let
us know
[email protected]
Edited by RFH, Steve george & karoline KAN
the sino files
No 8: The ‘traditional’ Chinese girl
ACCIDENTAL CHINESE HIPSTERS
Pretty in pink
Spotted heading boldly into
North Beijing’s trendy Indigo
Mall, a dude (left) who doesn’t
ever compromise when it comes
to color-coding. Blue
may mean for boys
but when it comes to
a snug pair of bottoms, a real man offsets with floral pink
matched with Crocs for
a look that says: “I just
borrowed my granddaughter’s clothes
to grab me some
Starbucks.” RFH
//For more hip, hip,
hip, visit accidentalchinesehipsters.
tumblr.com
ge
She’s keen to try the foreign
lifestyle and eagerly agrees to
have a drink, then flushes, feels
“dizzy” and wants to go home.
You help her to a cab where she
makes a sudden, immature pass.
How you react depends on what
type of person you are –
“I am looking for a foreign
friend to practice English,
because now it is not so good
and I want to study in the United
States – maybe Cambridge,
Harvard or London. But my
teacher says I need to spend
more time punching the books.
Ima
Who: Initially, Easy just wants
to practice her English – and
is very tenacious about doing
that. While not exactly unattractive, Easy dresses in a style that
leaves her actual physical form
something of a mystery.
n
Says: “Hello, please call me
Hermione now. I like sunsets,
sleeping and Elton John. Do you
think he’d like me, maybe?
rto
Age: 24
Perhaps you can tell
me more about
Western culture, and
particularly your famous ‘pubs’? I think
you are funny.
My QQ number
is 1456734222.
Do you like
Obama?”
Mo
most probably the kind to
eagerly pile in the back after her.
tie
: Ka
Name: Was Mary then Happy,
now Easy (real name: Zhao Lin)
“I look forward to discussing
the novels by the classic British
author Harry Potter!
Statistic of the Month
1,000
“It’s a declaration of war against
PM2.5,” Beijing’s Environmental
Protection Bureau announced,
says Shanghai Daily. War, huh
– but what is unwinnable war
good for? Maybe, Tesla Motors.
Silicon Valley billionaire Elon
Musk’s electric-car company had
been hoping to transfer its US
buzz to China by opening the
world’s largest Tesla showroom
in Beijing. However, as industry
analyst David Sedgwick told
China Daily: “there are very
few public charging stations in
China, and electric vehicles tend
to be expensive – even with
government sales incentives.” Worse, Beijing
businessman Zhan Baosheng
has apparently been squatting
on the Tesla trademark since
2006... three years after Tesla
was founded.
How Tesla sort out the trademark squabble is still up in the
air (having done nothing with
the name, Baosheng is now
demanding USD30 million). But
Beijing officials may be helping
with the problem of charging
stations, having promised to
introduce 1,000 all-electric taxis
by year’s end along with the
infrastructure to support the
new fleet.
Each private taxi will receive an
RMB3,000 monthly state subsidy, the Beijing Times reported,
adding that 50 such electric cabs are currently
serving Changping. Of
course, how this
might actually
reduce air pollution is negligible
– will the 1,000 figure impact on
the 66,000 other petrol-engine
taxis officially on the road?
Electric cars are hardly pollution-free: the power needed to
charge them comes from coal,
for example, while the batteries
eventually require disposal.
So, the Beijing government aims
to cap the number of vehicles
at 6 million by 2018, according
to Xinhua. Fine words – but that
figure is currently at 5.35 million
already, and things are f*cking
terrible.
“In order to curb emissions,
we have to introduce a market
mechanism to reduce intensity
of vehicle use,” environmental
official Li Kunsheng told Xinhua.
But carmakers, including
Volkswagen AG, General Motors
Co, Toyota Motor Corp and Ford
Motor Co have all announced
their shift to lower-tier cities, as
growth in Beijing and Shanghai
stagnates. In other words: 1,000
battery-powered cabs sounds
good but it’s hardly electrifying
environmentalists (something,
by the way, local officials would
– no doubt – love to do). RFH
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
7
Printed in partnership with
BeijingCream.com
TALES OF THE CITY
crackdown!
Publicity stunts
Rumor control
Fly like an Eagle Dad
A daring five year old from
Jiangsu province piloted a Bee
3-type ultra-light aircraft 30
kilometers across Beijing
Wildlife Park, which is… cute?
Dangerous? Irresponsible of
the father?
The father, of course, is notorious Eagle Dad He Liesheng,
who is somewhat of a publicity
hound (it would appear) and
the worst type of suckerfish –
attaining fame through
others. The “other” in this case
is Duoduo (pictured), whom He
also made run through New
York City snow last February
summer in the city
Hot rod
It’s been a busy month for the
Beijing Regional Platform for
Jointly Refuting Rumors, an “official monitor of false information,” who showcased a monthlong crackdown on rumors this
month by publishing a list of the
10 best – or worst – rumors.
(“Look at the camera!”), put out to sea
alone, and patriotically climb Mt. Fuji.
After this latest stunt,
He told Jiangsu-based
Modern Express that
his son could be the
world’s youngest person to fly a plane, which seems
sorta true. It all depends on
how far one flies and whether
getting an
official pilot’s license counts,
but we haven’t found a recorded instance of someone younger than five in the cockpit.
The child was accompanied by
an actual pilot, reported the
Global Times, and we don’t
doubt Eagle He loves his boy in
his own sort of intense, incomprehensible way. We’d just hate
to see him achieve his biggest
spotlight through a child stunt
gone horribly wrong.
Buddhist
Animal harm
The Beijing Wild Animal Park
has a novel way to attract tourists and charge them for photos:
“training.” The zoo claims it has
“taught” animals to behave in
a pleasing way but tourists beg
to differ. Peacocks supposedly
trained to have plumage on display instead had tail feathers
fixed in position. A staffer told
the Beijing Morning Post that,
on a good day, he’ll make over
RMB1,000 charging for snaps.
But Ms Liu, a tourist, said, “When
I came, I saw [the bird] had its
feathers tied and its legs bound
with string. And the crocodile
nearby was small, barely moved
and had its mouth bound.”
The list, as seen on Xinhua, includes some golden oldies (see
‘Chinese whispers’ p.6) as well
as the startling allegation that “a
bus was kidnapped in Bozhou,
Anhui, in August.”
Some stories seem quotidian
enough to be true – who’s to
say “a large number of bad guys
disguised as law-enforcement
personnel attack[ing] homes”
didn’t happen at some point in
August? – while others seem so
absurd they hardly need refuting:
does anyone really believe that
six escaped convicts managed to
go on a rampage and “murder
78 women and rape 16”?
And while it’s reassuring to learn
that the Three Gorges Dam has
not been privatized, we must
take our hat off to the prankster
who leaked that ‘1008600’ is “a
telephone number owned by
swindlers.” That number is, of
course, China Mobile’s – looks
like someone got fed up with the
crappy 3G service.
censorship
‘Naïve’ calligraphy banned
A white Lamborghini found in
flames by the East Fourth Ring
Road near Dongfeng Bridge
passed away peacefully last
month, firefighters annouced.
The Jiuxianqiao Fire Department
rushed to the scene with three
trucks, but the flames weren’t
quenched until they completely
and utterly destroyed the rare
and precious vehicle. There were
no casualties, though, and the
cause of the fire is still under
investigation – probably some
fu’erdai forgot to stub out his
Double Happiness.
8
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
New calligraphy works at the
Number Two Teaching Building
of Peking University drew a
surprise crowd this September,
after a student posted images on
Renren.com of a transliteration
featuring former President Jiang
Zemin’s famous “too young, too
simple” (图样图森破) remarks.
The words were originally used
in English to rebuke a Hong Kong
reporter during a press conference in 1997. Unfortunately,
those coming to pay homage
just four days
after the images
went viral found
them mysteriously absent. A
property management spokesman told the
Beijing Evening News that they
“were afraid that journalists
would come. It is too sensitive.”
But an unnamed professor told
the newspaper otherwise. “We
can’t allow Internet terms to be
used as content for calligraphy
in the teaching building. This is
supposed to be a place for studying, a serious place,” he scolded.
“They should be replaced by
some artwork that has a positive
meaning.” Trust artists not to
accentuate the positive.
CITY
sports
Tyson: ‘I Can Kill Anyone’
the notorious boxer on beating chengguan – and drugs
By Mark Dreyer
W
hen Mike Tyson joined
Weibo last month, he
started with a simple
question: “Who is the best fighter
in China?” Netizens pointed to the
chengguan, China's notorious ‘urban management’ officials. Tyson,
Weibo users said, should put the
chengguan in their place; others
joked he wouldn’t have a hope.
talking at length about why he
enjoys racing pigeons – “It’s just
something I’ve always been into”
– and health issues. His older sister Denise died of a heart attack
aged 24, and Tyson blames obesity – she reportedly weighed as
much as 400 pounds. He doesn’t
want his own children to call him
“a big, fat pig,” he says. It’s a typically tragicomic Tyson moment,
dealing with his sister’s death
through black humor.
Tyson shot back, in a nowinfamous deleted post, by
asking “Who is Chengguan? A
tough man? I’ve never heard
it.” Whether or not he was the
one writing these posts, Tyson
certainly seemed to know about
the story when asked about it at
a recent promotional appearance
in Beijing. But to the dismay of
his many fans here, he’s not up
to the chengguan challenge.
“I don’t box anyone no more,” he
replied, adding ominously, “But
I can kill anyone.” The man he’s
been closest to killing, though,
is himself. Tyson spent years indulging, then battling, drink and
drugs. But he says that life is now
in the past: one month ago,
in fact. That’s how long
he’s been sober —and
counting.
In 1988, Tyson
earned an inflation-adjusted
USD3.36 million for every
minute he
fought in
the ring.
These days,
though, he lives
hand to mouth.
The press event
organized in
Beijing this
September
had him hawking a cold and
flu prevention
supplement
called Quike.
wBut his lifetime
supply of pills
will sadly go to
waste: somewhat undermining the brand,
Tyson proudly
proclaims
‘pigeons are just
something I’ve
always been into’
that he has
never caught a
cold.
In the midst of
selling a product
he will never use, in
a country he has visited
twice before, the boxer
offered to extend this
one-off promotion.
“You need to give me
a commercial deal,”
he joked to someone
offstage. “I will help
America get well
Quike.”
Yet not even he held
much interest in what
he was there to advertize. “What’s the name
again?” he asked his
handlers. It was typically bizarre – in the way
that everything tends
to be with Tyson these
days – but he holds attention
through a combination of enthusiasm, energy and the sense that
anything could happen next.
Tyson may have turned 47 this
year, but in some ways he still
acts like an overgrown kid. He
joked on stage with his co-host
(whom he named the “Chinese
Mario Lopez”), pranced about
with a couple of scantily-clad
aerobic instructors, and offered
semi-serious thoughts on audience members as they attempted
to hit a punchbag as many times
as possible in 10 seconds.
A woman whose rapid touches
barely made the bag move had
Tyson laughing about the counter system that scored her as the
winner: “It must be broken. No
way she got 52!”
Despite being clearly frustrated
with the constant translating
between Chinese and English,
Tyson spoke excitedly about
wanting to visit other parts of
China. His interest seemed
genuine, if somewhat misguided
at times. “In the desert, there
are giant Caucasians. They don’t
know where they came from,”
he claims, in a (presumed) reference to the myth about the lost
Roman legion in Gansu. “They’re
around 9 or 10 feet tall. Are you
aware of that?”
When it comes to Chinese boxing, though, his knowledge is
less impressive: he had heard
of Zou Shiming, the two-time
Olympic champion who recently
turned pro, but hadn’t seen any
of his fights.
Tyson’s life has always been
car-crash TV. Now Being: Mike
Tyson, a six-part series on his
life, will make that a literal truth
when it airs this fall. In the show,
he jokes with old foe Evander
Holyfield – nothing sums up
Tyson’s contradictions better
than the fact that the man whose
ear he bit off in their infamous
1997 bout is now a close friend.
In a video before he walked on
stage, Tyson said there were
times he felt more comfortable
in a street fight than in the ring.
You get the feeling that the continued battle against his inner
demons will always be something of a brawl, one that, as
ever, the world will be watching,
whether on TV – or Weibo.
// Mark Dreyer is a Beijing-based sports
journalist. He blogs at www.theliningtower.
wordpress.com
But he is capable of surprising without being sensational,
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
9
CITY
Special Report: Society
Feng Ming,
25, salesman,
or iginally from
Heilongjiang.
“In other people’s eyes, I
am definitely a
diaosi, although
I wasn’t happy
about it at first.
Then people
told me: ‘Hey,
you guys are
grabbing potential customers
everyday, telling them the
same bullshit.
What else do
you think you
are?’ Then I
agreed, OK , I am
a diaosi!”
Chen Zhen, 24,
Canada tourism consultant,
or iginally from
Beijing. “I am
nüdiaosi; I am
not ashamed
of it. Girls
who are not
baifumei are
nüdiaosi – it ’s
very simple.
But I won’t
always be a
diaosi.” Chen
is planning to
apply for postgraduate study
at Renmin
University,
the so- called
“cradle of gaofushuai and
baifumei.”
10
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
Chen Chao, 23,
postgraduate student, or iginally
from Zhejiang.
“I’m a 23- year- old
guy who’s never
had any real
social exper ience.
Besides being
called a diaosi,
what other terms
are there? Diaosi
is the only one
that fits.”
o
‘We are diaosi, ssers/
what? We are loick us,
If you want to kon!’
please bring it
Lan Tian, 35,
auto company
middle manager,
or iginally from
Tianjin. “Diaosi is
a relative term. I
am a diaosi
compared to fuerdai or guanerdai,
but I want my
son to be a gaofushuai. It ’s the
goal I am fighting
for.” Lan plans to
send his son to
an international
school.
I’m a Loser, Baby
understanding China’s Generation X: the ‘diaosi’
By Karoline Kan
W
hen Deng
Xiaoping
announced
“Some
people should be allowed to get
rich before others,” the emphasis was firmly on the rich. A lot
has happened in those intervening years, especially if you’re
young, and trying to make your
way in the world. Some 30 years
later, it’s a different word that
now appears emphasized:
On Times Square, online gaming company Giant ’s advert for its
new game ‘Xianxia Shijie’ (仙侠世界) ran into trouble this year
with author ities, after its vulgar meaning came to light
“There are diaosi of every social
status,” argues Ding. “There are
the guys that sit in Internet cafes,
smoking all day, that have no aspirations other than chatting up
a girl on QQ. Then there are the
rich kids in BMWs that are diaosi compared to their friends
who drive Lamborghinis.”
College students have also
taken up the label. 20-yearold Chen Xiao, from Nanjing
Agricultural University claims
that diaosi is no longer an offensive term on campus.
The others.
Every country has its countercultures – sweeping subsets of
dissatisfied youth – but in China,
as the country’s collective wealth
grows, so too has the number of
people who feel marginalized by
the pressures to get ahead.
According to a comprehensive
report carried out by Chinese
gaming company Giant this
April, some 529 million young
people across the country now
openly consider themselves to be
‘losers’ or diaosi, with 76 percent
of Shanghainese responders
embracing the term. Wealthy
Shanghai blogger Han Han, the
once-celebrated voice of youth,
even claims to be “an authentic
diaosi… who started from scratch
with no power or connections.”
The term diaosi – which literally
means ‘cock wire’ – has become
a catch-all to describe a generation left behind by the country’s
rapid economic rise.
“It’s about having no money,
no culture and no taste,” laughs
hairdresser Liu Suhan. “You
know: Girls with long nails who
stand on the street listening to
the latest Internet pop hit on
their shanzhai [fake] phone.” ‘When I’m with my bosses, no
matter how friendly we are, I’m
still just a loser who takes orders’ porated it into a chant: “We are
diaosi, so what? We are losers/ If
you want to kick us, please bring
it on!”
Former Li Yi admin Dali Zi was
initially against appropriating
the word. “I felt it was too insulting – it’s a slang word to do with
penises,” he explains. “But after
it went viral, it was out of my
control – and now it’s something
else entirely.” The term first appeared on the
BBS Baidu Tieba, on a sub-forum
dedicated to former football
player Li Yi. Although Li is considered a mediocre player at best,
with over 6.8 million members
and nearly 266 million posts, the
Li Yi forum holds the record as
Baidu’s largest to date.
What is a diaosi and why
do nearly 40 percent of the
country identify themselves as
such? According to a report by
BusinessSohu.com, “Chinese diaosi are not losers in the traditional economic sense.” The report
says that the majority were born
between 1974 and 1990, and
typically work in industries such
as the media and computing.
Its members were given the
made-up insult in 2010 by members of a rival forum – yet rather
than take offence, they incor-
67.64 percent are unmarried,
59.3 percent go online at least
once a day, and 8.6 percent use
an iPhone.
On average, a diaosi has a
monthly income of between
RMB6,000-8,000 – which, in most
cities, would be considered
decidedly middle-class. “The first time I heard the word,
I wasn’t even sure what it meant
entirely, but I knew it referred to
me,” recalls Ding Yi, a 31-year-old
copywriter at an international
ad agency. Ding appreciates the
word’s self-mockery but says its
definition sits on a sliding scale. “I’m not always a diaosi, just in
certain company,” Ding explains.
“Like when I’m with my bosses:
No matter how friendly we are,
I’m still just someone below
them who takes orders.” The ambiguous meaning of diaosi – both as an insult and tribal
term – is similar to the American
‘redneck,’ whose poverty and unrefined behavior can not only be
a source of pride, but a culture in
and of itself. “To me, a diaosi doesn’t care
much about their appearance
and is disorganized. As for people who call themselves diaosi,
they’re just being open-minded
and loving self-mockery. The
original meaning has been
lost,” he explains. “Of course,
everybody wants to be a gaofushuai [tall, wealthy, handsome],
but to some, that will always be
a dream.”
The gaofushuai is the polar opposite of diaosi, an imagined
Prince Charming-type with lots
of money and family connections. But how big is the gap between gaofushuai and diaosi?
“Girls always say, ‘I like gaofushai because they have good
taste.’ But all these ‘good’ traits
come from the fact that they
were born into rich families. Any
man born in a rich family could
be a gaofushuai, assuming he’s
not too ugly,” complains masters
graduate Simon Wei.
“Many young people today feel
helpless. They’re not satisfied
with their current situation, and
don’t know how to change it.
They created the word to lower
expectations and escape societal
pressures,” says Wei. “Diaosi is an
identity that lets young people
escape from the disappointments
of unbroken class barriers.”
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
11
CITY
Special Report: Society
Jia jia, 22,
programmer,
or iginally from
Shanxi. “I don’t
have noble ambitions, or any
elegant habits.
Being a programmer is not all
that bad. If I do
well, at least I
will be middleclass in terms of
money, but at the
same time, I’ll
always be a diaosi. It has nothing to do with
how much money
I earn.”
Liu Shuxian, 25,
postgraduate student, or iginally
from Shandong.
“Car, house, good
family, money,
high social status: these are the
things that provide happiness,
but they are too
far from me r ight
now. I have no
income. When
most of the people around you
[at university]
are diaosi, it ’s
not a shameful
thing.”
12
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
Peng Xuejie, 22,
property agent,
or iginally from
Henan.“My financial
situation makes me
a diaosi. I earn between RMB2000 to
3000 each month. I
work 12 hours a day,
six days a week . The
first thing I think of
when I wake up in
the morning is, how
many apartments will
I rent out today and
how much commission will I get this
month?”
tity
‘Diaosi is an iden
that lets young from
people escape ents
the disappointmss
of unbroken cla
barriers’
Xiao Bin, 24,
software engineer, or iginally
from Tianjin.
“They say software engineers
have the largest number of
diaosi. We are
also called “code
peasants,” working all day and
night on the
same codes –
true diaosi.”
Xiao is going to
Europe to begin
a postgraduate
degree next year.
F
or centuries, education has
been considered the only
means of breaking through
China’s many glass ceilings.
Throughout much of the country’s
history, processes such as the
famed imperial examination theoretically allowed anyone, no matter their background, to become a
government minister.
But the economic reforms of the
1990s had the unexpected effect
of eroding longstanding policies
aimed at providing open access
to top institutions: specifically, the
introduction of tuition fees for
higher education, and the slow
disappearance of the graduate’s
iron rice bowl.
Today, it is common to hear
people argue that it’s virtually
impossible for children from
disadvantaged backgrounds to
gain entry to the country’s upper
echelons.
Statistics appear to support these
claims. In 2012, less than one of
every seven students at Tsinghua
University had a rural hukou (traditionally rural areas have been
associated with lower levels of
economic mobility). Statistics
from Peking University (PKU) are
even more disappointing. From
1978 to 1998, around 30 percent
of PKU students were from rural
backgrounds; however, since
the year 2000, that figure has
dropped to less than 10 percent.
“Diaosi are different from your
average guy from the countryside; they know more. Many of
them have access to the Internet,
possess college degrees and pay
attention to the latest fashions
and current affairs. But they’re
also aware that they lack social
resources and well-connected
family backgrounds,” said Li Yi
forum editor Dali Zi. “It doesn’t
mater that a farmer’s son graduates from a good university – his
future will still be restricted, because ultimately he’ll always be a
farmer’s son.”
Or daughter. Just as the gaofushuai have the equally-idealized female equivalent, baifumei (whiteskinned, wealthy, beautiful), the
term nüdiaosi (female diaosi) is
now an equally important part of
the loser lexicon. “All the girls in my dormitory
happily call themselves that,”
23-year-old Dong Hui, a student at the Central University
of Finance and Economics, says
with a smile.
‘Rich kids in BMWs
are diaosi compared
to those who drive
Lamborghinis’
“Today, who even cares about
inner beauty? As long as you’re
pretty, even if you get all your
money for nice clothes and
make-up from your sugar daddy, nobody cares.”
The nüdiaoshi found an unlikely home in 2011 with a
German sitcom. The sketch
show Knallerfrauen, originally
geared for a German audience,
exploded online here in large
part due to the work of two
Chinese students, who translated
the comedy while studying computer science in Dortmund,
Germany. For the translation
of Knallerfrauen, a largely positive term used to describe a
young woman who is hot, outgoing and quirky, translators Xu
Jianshuang and Wang Jing went
with Diaosi Lady (Diaosi Nushi). Xu explains that, while his choice
for translation was met with
some resistance among fans
online, at the same time the title
helped the show resonate with
millions immediately.
“The lead actress [Martina Mull]
plays so many real women you
see in everyday life: a mother, a
single young woman, someone’s
girlfriend, an office worker. But
she resorts to the most absurd
solutions to her problems, as if
she’s her own worst enemy. You
just want to laugh,” says Xu. “As a woman, social skills are really something that can separate
you from diaosi,” says Dong. “A
woman who is able to socialize
and network must have had a
pretty good education. It shows
she has confidence in her looks
and taste.”
Social networking is an important and unavoidable part of
modern Chinese life. In Mycos’ 2009 Employment
Report, unemployment among
college graduates whose parents were migrant workers
was shown to be 20 percent
higher than graduates who
A fa ke po st er
fo r Li Yi ’s ‘S ay
Ye s’
came from families where at
least one parent worked in
upper management. “Why is it that a top university
graduate from a low-earning
family will earn much less than a
KTV girl? In the past, a child from
a lower-class family was able to
achieve a higher social standing through education, but how
about today? Maybe through
cheating and by opportunism,”
wrote economist Lang Xianping
in the magazine IT Time Weekly.
Lang claims it is impossible
that someone from a nonconnected family could emulate
Chinese-Americans such as
US Ambassador Gary Locke or
Secretary of Energy Steven Chu.
“What is the American Dream?
It doesn’t mean an increased
salary, but hope and aspiration,”
wrote Lang.
With no hope of being China’s
own Gary Locke or Steven
Chu, diaosi are spending their
free time surfing the Internet,
according to Dali Zi. “Most diaosi gather together online to talk
about issues like social news,
emotional life and entertainment... rarely about politics or international issues – it’s too heavy
for them,” he says.
Although the term diaosi has
been accepted into mainstream
culture, some people, such
as well-known movie director
Feng Xiaogang, are beginning
to reject the expression. “It’s a
word used to scorn people who
are going through a bad period.
[Using the word] is confusing
shame as praise,” wrote Feng on
a recent Weibo post. Many conservatives have also
argued that the popularity of
the word, and the culture it represents, is in fact indicative of a
broader societal decline. “The
development of mass
media like television,
newspaper and the
Internet has had a big
impact on traditional
cultures. Diaosi is vulgar and shallow, and
represents cultural
degeneration; the word
directs particular
venom at elite culture. Diaosi are trying
to subvert old rules
while enjoying their
insignificant existence,”
claims Zhang Meng, a
post-graduate student at
Beijing Foreign Studies
University.
But psychologist Wei Guangzhou
takes an opposing view. “How
do you determine whether a
culture is mainstream or not? I
think the Internet provides people with another possibility, one
that’s neither mainstream or a
subculture – it’s more emotional
on a human level.”
Mr Wei likens this to toilet graffiti. “I don’t think people have
changed. In the past, they liked
to write inflammatory sentences
they wouldn’t dare say in public
on toilet walls. Is that any different to online forums today? It
doesn’t mean that in the past,
the toilet graffiti was of any significance – it was just kids letting
off steam.”
Most self-defining diaosi, however, feel differently. Beyond superficial differences in musical taste
or style, many see themselves as
members of a ‘lost generation’:
children who had grown up during the economy’s great transition during the late 80s and 90s,
where social values changed
overnight. Others see themselves
as a generation free from parental oversight, as mothers and fathers migrated to cities for jobs,
leaving a great many children to
grow up as latch-key kids. Beyond the different theories,
there is no doubt that diaosi are
also the product of invisible
social elements, colliding at
accelerated speeds, who, in selfpreservation, collect to embrace
their insignificance as ‘progress’
happens around them. “A diaosi finds power in powerlessness,” says Ding. “It’s just a
psychological victory for those
who are tired of reality.”
// Additional reporting by James Tiscione
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
13
CITY
nation
Postcards from the edge
国
Where the buffalo
信
来
的
roamed…
远方
邮
中
政
Huizhou, a river town that’s fast running dry
by Tom Bird
Over in American Retro, a
Huicheng district expat bar,
six-year Huizhou veteran Mark
Taylor has acquired a language
school and a fine watering hole.
American Retro is not the earliest
Western-style bar in Huizhou –
there’s an Australian-run English
Pub on the same street, and
Relax, a few doors down, was the
first Chinese bar not to deafen its
clientele with dismal pop – but is
probably the most successful at
integrating local appetites with
foreign drinking habits.
“We’ve had to make compromises,” says co-owner Lance Smith
who regularly performs in the
bar. “We’re the only livehouse in
town. When we booked bands,
we thought the locals would go
wild, but they didn’t even applaud. You have to wait for the
culture to catch up.”
ou
is com ing to Hu izh
r kua i? Big mo ney
Br idg e ove r the r ive
H
ow Huizhou bus station
has survived the wreckingball swinging through
this Guangdong river town is a
mystery. There it sits, a magnet
for every deviant in the city – they
ignore the signs that read “Safety
First,” just as the staff ignore the
ones that read “Service First.” So
who really comes first? When we
finally flag a metered cab, the
driver laments: “Taxis can’t make
money in this town anymore.”
The journey to the hotel brings
to light the new reality of ‘Goose
Town,’ as it is still fondly known.
China’s infamous traffic jams are
no longer just an expression of
first-tier life. Car culture is
endemic, despite how pedestrianfriendly the city used to be. Folks
who have no business behind the
wheel of a 4x4 Toyota are busy
trying to squeeze their way down
grossly inadequate streets, while
defying every road rule there is.
“It’s a nightmare,” one bar owner
complains. “I’ve seen the amount
of cars rise five-fold in my time.”
Huizhou and I enjoy a long tangled romance, beginning in 2005.
14
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
Then, it had been a sleepy backwater on the eastern periphery
of the Pearl River Delta, a place
where water buffalo bathed in the
river opposite my apartment and
motorbikes navigated its narrow
streets. But word from old friends
now told a different story – one
of cars and consumerism. Was
Huizhou busy replicating the
Shenzhen miracle or inflating a
dangerous bubble?
I had reasons of my own for
wanting to escape out there.
I owed money all over town
and a Hunan girl had recently
launched a vicious psychological
offense against me. I took along
Li Zhengde, a fine photographer
– but I know how the man gets
with a bellyful of booze. I’ve
witnessed him vomit all over a
tourist site in Suzhou and debate
ancient philosophy in Afrikaans
and Yiddish, despite only able to
speak Mandarin and an obscure
Hunan dialect.
In Xiapu, feasting on Chongqingstyle ma la tang and beers, we
chat with the owner, a friend
of several years. When first in
Huizhou, he’d hoist tarpaulin
between two derelict buildings
to protect himself from the rain,
while he dished out noodles to
the city’s migrant workforce. Two
years later, he’d rented a closetsized cafe. Today he is the patron
of a large and popular restaurant.
This kind of rags-to-riches story is
common in flourishing Huizhou:
The goat herder turned entrepreneur, who’ll now be able to afford
an education for his son and
end a cycle of poverty that has
plagued his family for centuries.
The place seemed packed. “But
everyone leaves at midnight,”
laments Lance. “It’s the herd
mentality. We only do real business between nine and twelve.”
This business is conducted by a
mismatched posse of drunkards:
a fat man, a Chaozhoun-ese girl
who adds the word “luo” to every
sentence and a girl who makes
speeches in English that no man
nor beast can comprehend.
But as the clock strikes twelve, patrons promptly abandon beer for
A familiar site: demolition and commerce, cheek by jowl
their beds; some, in their haste,
forsake a bucket full of Bud – a
crime to waste, we all agree.
Hangovers are best dealt with in
Huizhou with egg pancakes and
Green Royalty, a native soft drink.
There’s the Su Dong Po Museum
to visit but, by the time we enter
the West Lake Park, none of us
have the head for Song Dynasty
poetry: they have a relatively
humble exhibition for a man who
penned over 200 hymns to
Huizhou’s food, wine, lakes and
mountains, but it’s informative
enough. Instead, we buy cans of
Tsingtao and rent a pedal boat.
From the West Lake, you can
see the full expanse of Huizhou
as it transforms itself. Huizhou’s
oldest standing structure is the
Great Sage Pagoda, last rebuilt in
1618. Across town, the 48-story
Renaissance Hotel represents how
Huizhou sees itself today: brash
and business-orientated.
Whether it will still be standing 400 years from now is another question, but it is clear that
Huizhou has its sights firmly set
on prosperous times. Around the
lake, old districts are being demolished to make way for luxury
housing. When the intercity rail
link and high-speed train are completed, they’ll slash commuting
time to Shenzhen and elsewhere.
Change is afoot, and the railroad
is coming. Businesses are expected to relocate to take advantage
of Huizhou’s cheaper rents; the
locals are already salivating at the
prospect of feasting on the Pearl
River mega-pie.
This new Huizhou is barely recognizable from a few years ago. In
Jiangbei, there are luxury hotels
and a sports stadium. The two
Hua Mao Towers, advertised on
the Shenzhen Metro, stand beside
Hua Mao Mall, which houses
Zara, Armani and Calvin Klein.
The transformation is impressive.
But these gilded structures are
entirely devoid of local charm.
As Huizhou grows and absorbs
foreign influences, is it destined
to become less like Huizhou and
more like everywhere else?
“You know more than 50 percent
of Chinese are poor,” explains
Peter Hu, a local friend. “We just
want to better our lives, do business and help our family.”
Peter migrated to Huizhou from
rural Sichuan and, in the years
that I’ve spent mostly drinking
Tsingtao, he’s married, produced
a child, bought a house and car,
brought his parents to live with
him and spent time in the Middle
East selling light-fittings to Arabs.
He’s typically modest about his
pole-vault from subsistence
farmer to international businessman: “I’m too small to raise pigs
and sow seeds. So I had to use
my brain,” he says in near-perfect
English.
We ride the expressway to Boluo,
a Huizhou satellite town that
Peter and I cycled to several years
ago. Then it was in the boonies,
connected to Huizhou only by a
dirt track. But change is stirring,
even out here.
On Tiyu Boulevard is a new development – a crass expression of
what Man can do with too much
money and not enough economy:
the infamous USD940 million
clone of Austria’s Hallstatt Village.
Mozart blares from the loudspeakers. A faux church houses the
property agent selling Austrian
villas scattered throughout the
surrounding hillside. Attempts to
get a Viennese coffee to digest
this scene sadly fail: none of the
shops are open.
Market stalls thr ive
The buffalo may be long gone but
families still enjoy a day at the r iver
“Could be worse,” says one of my
friends. “They’re demolishing 700
mountains in Gansu Province to
make way for a new development
zone. That’s what they did in
Dongguan,” she adds.
That night: several pints in the
Tsingtao Beer restaurant, followed
by Huizhou’s premier nightclub,
Rave Party. ‘Gangnam Style’ is
booming and the post-90s generation is getting high on whisky
and green tea in the early years of
the China Century. It’s too loud to
talk, too bright to think.
A retreat to the sanctuary of
American Retro for a nightcap
is defeated by the curse of midnight: the Cinderellas and their
chaperones are gone, or going.
Dizzy from booze, we tumble out
into Binjiang Park. Discovering a
slipway down to the murky waters
of the East River, the inevitable
exchange takes place.
“You jump first.” “No, you.” My
friend Zhengde seizes the initiative, diving into the murky stream
and embarrassing me into following suit. We conclude our
evening swimming breaststroke in
the chilly waters of the East River,
Huizhou’s main artery, where the
buffalo used to roam.
The Hallstatt Village, part of a national
trend for replicating foreign architecture
The Hakka – or “guest people” – are Han from
northeast China who settled in south China
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
15
CITY
DAY TRIPS: visa run
good Korea move?
Renew your visa very cheaply in, uh, North Korea
BY Simon Cockerell
T
he dreaded visa run: We’ve
all done it; some of us,
fortunately, just a few
times. For others, it has been and
remains a heavy bi-monthly, or
quarter-yearly albatross, hauling
one’s arse joylessly to foreign soil
and back. A repetitive Sisyphean
chore that few enjoy, nobody understands (why must one briefly
leave the country every few
months?) and that shows no sign
of abating.
Did we mention we hate it?
There have always been options
for those condemned to the old
China in-n-out every few weeks:
Hong Kong (the Classic), Taiwan
(the Slightly Sticking It To The
Man), Seoul (the Cool) or Japan
(the Money Is No Object). And,
of course, for US citizens not
in need of visas to go there,
the RMB300 round-trip to
Erlian, Mongolia is the bargainbasement option – which comes
with free tales of sharing berths
with the kinds of fascinating
characters who find themselves
plying this route. We know of
one guy who got piled on by 30
Mongolian migrants in the flatbed of a pick-up, then taken the
wrong way (geographically). You
can entertain your friends for
literally minutes with stories of
this rail-bound Mos Eisley!
Now, however, there is a new
‘cheapest’ option available… and
it’s most likely the most unique
one that you can find for the exBeijing visa run (short of hitchhiking or walking to HK; we’re
keeping the comparisons to conventional forms of transport). It
is of course: North Korea.
‘Dandong is home
to the worst
nightclub in the
whole country’
As many know, trips to North
Korea do tend to be fairly expensive – this is true (but worth every penny, as almost anyone who
has been there will attest). The
quick, cheap day trip you can do
to renew the visa isn’t the same
as a tour around the whole
country, but is one to whet the
appetite and gain those allimportant two blurry red stamps
in the passport. For this alone, it
might be something to consider.
My company, Koryo Tours, was
finally successful in opening
the North Korean border city
of Sinuiju to Western tourists
in May this year. It had been a
years-long effort and I was the
first Western tourist to visit the
city (clarification here: other
Western people, of course, have
been before. Diplomats, aid
workers, even some journalists.
I am referring to tourists only)
and despite it being the 122nd
time I had been to
North Korea, I still
found it very interesting indeed.
Here’s how it goes.
You get yourself
to Dandong, in
Liaoning Province,
up on the North
Korean border (claimed as
China’s biggest border city –
which it is, following the oneChina policy).
You can get there easily from
Beijing by train: Takes 14 hours
and departs from Beijing Central
every day at 17:30. Pick up the
North Korean entry permit there,
and then get driven across the
bridge into the mysterious hinterland of the DPRK. Here, you
meet the local guides and get
a one-day whistle-stop tour of
various monuments: museums,
a park, a school, an art gallery,
a look at the riverbank, a new
swimming area (opening soon!),
and even a wander around the
town (accompanied, of course –
this is North Korea after all).
The trip includes lunch at the
one restaurant in the city
allowed to take tourists (it
belongs to the local travel company) and you may even see
your name in lights – I was first
welcomed to the restaurant by
an electronic board scrolling
the immortal phrase ‘WARMLY
WELCOME COCKERELL SIMON
DAVID TO OUR MYOHYANGSAN
TRAVEL COMPANY’ which was
a nice touch, although too long
to fit on the board all at once
(hence an awkward but inevitable ‘WARMLY WELCOME COCK-’
moment).
After several hours in-country,
it’s time to head back across the
bridge to China. Customs may
look at your photos (or not; depends which side of the
bed they got out
of in the morning) and then
you’re back on the mainland for
another 60 or 90 days.
There’s a handy 18:30 train to
Beijing that you can jump on
(arrives at 08:34 the next day)
or you might consider a night
in Dandong, home of the best/
worst nightclub in this whole
vast nation. I’m talking about
Real Love – spring-loaded dancefloor, warm beer, midget show,
terrible music, interrupting MC –
unforgettable experience.
Or just walk along the Yalu riverside at night, looking out across
900m of water to the total
darkness on the other side, aka
North Korea’s seventh biggest
city – the place you spent the
day doing more than just getting your passport stamped.
It might not be as obviously
exciting as a weekend in Hong
Kong, Seoul, or other Asian
metropolises, but it’s the most
unique visa run you will take,
and, as mentioned before, (possibly) among the cheapest too.
Prices from Dandong depend on
numbers and if you visit alone
or with a group (recently, there
have been very few Chinese
groups going, due to a government policy). Either way, you
are provided with an Englishspeaking guide. Costs range
from 1,290 to 2,290 RMB (seven
working days are required for
the NK visa processing).
// Simon Cockerell is General Manager of
KoryoTours.com. To contact Simon, email info@
koryogroup.com
Dropping in on the DPRK
Pack your smartphone, camera and laptop – all are now allowed there. You can even buy a SIM
and send tweets and Instagrams (a mere USD300 per card!). Be respectful to local customs,
especially regarding Dear Leaders. Grab some souvenirs: the national beer, Taedonggang, is ace.
16
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
CITY
word on the street
Romance language
First Comes Love, Then Comes Purse-Carrying
BY Eveline Chao
T
he Chinese dating scene
is a strange, strange land,
where men carry their ladies
purses, women express their love
by hitting their significant other
and calling him stupid and nothing says “Wo ai ni” like a set of
matching t-shirts. But how to gain
entrance to this mystical realm?
Why, with these words for romancing in Chinese…
撒娇 sǎ jiāo
To throw a fit; to act coquettishly.
Somehow, in China it’s cute to
act like a brat. This involves a lot
of pouting, speaking in the voice
of a small child, and hitting one’s
boyfriend whilst calling him “so
bad.”
调情 tiáo qíng
To flirt. Literally “throw feelings.”
打情骂俏 dǎ qíng mà qiào
A literary way to say “flirt” or
“banter flirtatiously.” Literally “hit
passion, scold pretty,” referring
to the expression 打是亲骂是爱
dǎ shì qīn mà shì ài, or “hitting is
intimacy and yelling is love.”
吃豆腐 chī dòu fu
Cop a feel. Literally “eat tofu.”
Between people of the same sex,
it can mean “to bully.” More common in the south, though most
northerners should know the
term too. “Sell tofu,” 卖豆腐 mài
dòu fu, is also a southern Chinese
euphemism for prostitution.
泡妞 pào nīu
A slang term for “hitting on,”
“flirting with,” or “hooking up
with” girls. Literally “soak a girl.”
钓凯子 diàokǎi zi
To pick up or hit on a man.
Literally “fish for men” or “fish for
a boyfriend.” Originated in Taiwan
and Hong Kong but known and
used everywhere.
戏果 xì guǒ and 戏孙 xì sūn
Beijing slang for chasing or picking up girls (xì guǒ) or guys (xì
sūn). 果 Guǒ means “fruit” but is
Beijing slang for “chicks” (say it
with a Beijing acent: 果儿 guǒr).
性感 xìng gǎn
Sexy.
AA 制 AA zhì
Going Dutch (i.e. splitting the bill)
AB 制 AB zhì
Splitting the bill so that one side
pays a bit more, say 70 percent.
花花公子 huā huā gōng zǐ
A playboy (and also the Chinese
name for Playboy magazine).
Literally “flower prince.”
钻石王老五 zuàn shí wáng lǎowǔ
Literally “diamond bachelor.” A
wealthy, older, eligible man. Used
mainly in Hong Kong and Taiwan.
王八看绿豆，看对眼了 wáng
bākàn lǜ dòu, kàn duì yǎn le
A joking expression that means
two ugly people will find each
other attractive. Literally “a
tortoise will gaze at two mung
beans” (because a tortoise’s eyes
look like two mung beans).
情侣衫 qíng lǚ shān or 对衫 duì
shān
Matching couple shirts. You know
you’ve seen them…
// All words above are from NIUBI! – The Real
Chinese You Were Never Taught in School,
available on Amazon and in local Englishlanguage bookstores
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
17
relationships
CITY
BETA DAD
Status anxiety
Insults by Russian peasants all in a day’s parenting
by Carlos Ottery
It is clichéd,
hackneyed
and banal to
bitch about the
mother-in-law. So,
I’m about to be
clichéd, hackneyed
and banal.
This sleeping beauty (inset) is
no match for the Wicked Witch
Batsh*t herself owns a tiny
clothes shop in Russia; she bulkbuys clothes in Yabaolu (where
else?) and sends them to Russia
where they are sold at a significant mark-up. The height of glamor! It’s like being in the presence
of Coco Chanel, watching her take
the Chinese labels off and sew on
the Turkish ones; Turkish clothes
have a higher status than Chinese
ones in Russia.
I
’m not sure if the Russians
have a version of the Daily
Mail. If they do, my mother-inlaw Babushka must certainly read
it. She had the misfortune to grow
up in a poverty-stricken Siberian
village in Soviet Russia. It can’t
have been much fun. It can’t have
been easy. Does that make me
more sympathetic towards her?
The hell it does.
Perhaps this is because she
doesn’t show any sympathy towards me. Or perhaps it’s because
she’s a relentless old nag with the
intelligence of a goldfish who was
held back a year at school. Let’s
start with her obsession with my
status. Babushka – henceforth
known as ‘Batsh*t’ (as that’s, you
know, what I call her) – constantly
reminds me that my ‘status’
(which I’m assuming she means
socio-economic,) is not acceptable to her. My Gini coefficient? It
ain’t efficient.
And it all seems a bit rich, if you’ll
forgive the pun, considering they
come from such very humble
beginnings themselves: Mirny, a
rust-belt, rusty Sheriff’s badge of a
town famous for the second largest manmade hole in the world
(now a disused diamond mine!).
I remember telling a friend that
Batsh*t bought me a Mac 3 for
my birthday. “You’re kidding me:
a Macbook?” he exclaimed. “Nah
Pete,” I replied. “A Gillette razor.”
I wouldn’t mind all this snobbery
if Nadia was heir to some shipping dynasty or something; then
I would get it. Who would want
this particular Essex Jew to get
their hands on the family jewels,
after all? But there are no jewels;
certainly none precious. Most of
the time, in fact, Batsh*t is absolutely desperate for me to marry
18
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
the gold teeth? (It certainly gives a
fresh spin on ‘going down t’shaft.’)
If so, what is his status to mine,
a jobbing teacher and aspiring
actor?
As with most totalitarian states,
Russian media peddle ‘foreign
forces’ as an evil in society to obfuscate their own domestic misdemeanors. The effects can be odd.
Last week, I breezily gave Batsh*t
permission to take her granddaughter, Lola, back to Russia on
‘holiday.’ She was stunned; seems
she had been expecting me to
instantly suspect she was going to
kidnap Lola.
‘I was only told he “performs some
kind of service down the mine.” Was
he a subterranean sex-worker?’
her daughter, except when she
wants us to break-up; her personality often radically flips from one
minute to the next. It’s almost like
she’s schizophrenic.
She hit me with a Batsh*t Special
after I’d just gotten home – my
home; rent paid by me – from a
13-hour flight, eager for sleep. A
toilet brush was thrown at me,
while she was hollering about my
lack of status in an almost psychotic rage. The irony was I had
just got back from Toronto where
I had been promoting my film,
This Is Sanlitun. Essentially, I was
trying (with the emphasis on trying) to make the simple leap from
English teacher to movie star, and
this grizzled old hag was giving
me cr*p about not changing my
status.
Batsh*t’s husband is a miner. I
don’t mean he owns a mine or
anything like that; more that he
works in a mine. Well, he comes
home with his hands dirty and fingernails encrusted. Nobody seems
to know what he does specifically.
I have asked every member of the
family what he does down the
mine. The most detailed answer
I ever get told was that he “performs some kind of service.” Was
he a subterranean sex-worker of
some sort – would that explain
Such paranoia is normal in Russia.
At the beginning of 2013, the
country passed a law banning US
citizens from adopting Russian orphans in case they, I don’t know,
ate them?
But Batsh*t can’t even maintain
her own nationalist standards.
Last week I come home, ate dinner (which I cooked) and retired.
She started to bleat about me
not doing the housework (it’s
true; I don’t do much). “In Russia,
man work all day and when
come home, do all cleaning,” she
snorted. I don’t see your husband washing the sheets after he
gets back from servicing other
men down the mine, I retorted.
“He too shy to clean in front of
other man!” she screamed back.
Of course! I’d forgotten the stereotype of the sensitive Russian
househusband.
Although it goes against my instincts, I now have two jobs so I
can try to make more money to
support the family. I’m trying to
promote a film too, but it is never
enough; nothing is ever enough.
Maybe I should become a subterranean sex worker too.
CITY
Exit Interview
the Long and short of it
Bullet-headed Paddy’s owner calls time
EXIT
INTERVIEW
BY rfh
F
On the Paddy’s brand
Personally I’m finished in bars
hopefully, but who knows? If I
do it again in the future, I will
chose who I work with.
ew people have poured
as many pints (down their
shirt) as local businessmen
Karl Long. A keen sportsman and
former manager of such venues as Paddy O’Shea’s, Paddy’s
Irish Bar, Paddy’s Pit Stop, The
Pomegranate and Black Sun Bar,
Long was probably the closest
thing Beijing will ever have to Sam
Malone, the former ball player
and ex-alcoholic owner of Cheers.
Long is still an avowed alcoholic
(and never played anything professionally) but always seems
to know people’s names – or
pretends to. Having screened innumerable sports, hosted community events from the Superbowl to
Spring Festival, and held a weekly
pub quiz that stupid people could
win, Long has moved onwards – if
not upwards – to Hefei, in sunny
Anhui. Was it all worth it?
On arrival
I landed in August 2002, then
went up to Harbin to be a teacher
with no qualifications, learning to
say words like ‘eunuch’ and ‘cold
beer’ plus various curses that
would make me look cool in front
of half-naked Chinese drinkers…
I made sure I took lots of photos
to [show all my friends] because
I thought they cared. This was
before Facebook; they didn’t. It
was about that time that I realized
that ‘Yesterday Once More’ by the
Carpenters was my favorite song.
On establishing Paddy’s
I’d been working for the Irish
Dairy Board for about four years,
selling butter and cheese to the
Chinese (all of them). Paddy’s
[was already up and] running for
a few months, when I took over a
partner’s share and ‘managed’ the
place. I’d finally made it! I was living the Irish Dream — running an
Irish bar abroad.
On the original scene
My circle was less expat, more
half-pat… Sanlitun South Street
was the place to be, at the
original Black Sun Bar. It was
here I developed quite a strong
dislike for people I don’t know
too well; more often than not,
after answering the usual three
questions, I had to pretend to be
interested in non-Chinese commenting on other people’s tones
On leaving town
I think if you stay anywhere too
long, you become a bit like the
old woman who won’t give the
kids back their ball.
You know it’s time to leave when
your favorite bar in the city is
Bob’s Wine - which sells cans of
beer for six kuai, has no toilets
and is only open a few months a
year [but what months! – Ed].
Karl Long: Irishman.
and wondering aloud if they
had SARS, just because some taxi
driver stroked their hairy legs.
On being an Irish ambassador
Apart from hosting the odd Irish
Ball – for the free ticket – I have
attended several embassy functions where I’ve enjoyed balancing a plate of food, knife, fork
and glass of Tsingtao while pretending to understand why Irish
pensioners are losing their free
travel cards.
On sports fans
I developed an interest in
Manchester United because they
were popular and successful (it
was either United or Brazil – five
World Cups – or heroin, which is
also quite popular in Ireland).
Cricket attracts the crème. Men
in their 50s who wear a shirt and
tie to a bar – but actually teach
kindergarten. “Is the cricket on?”
Yes. “Is it Happy Hour?” Yes. “Can
you put the commentary on for
six hours?” For cricket, are you
f*cking mental?
On Paddy’s finest hours
World Cup 2010 was good —
apart from finishing ‘work’ at 7am
every day for a month. The Super
Bowl party by MashupAsia saw
Paddy’s sell out of beer before
9am, a bit like Girls Gone Wild, on
acid, with men. Greenbay Packers
won, I think.
I also enjoyed the French support
for their team in the Rugby World
Cup; shame they didn’t buy any
beer, though.
Entrepeneur. Mud wre
stler.
‘It’s time to
leave when your
favorite bar is
Bob’s Wine —
which has six-kuai
beers and no
toilets’
On drinking stereotypes
Russians love fresh, salty fish in a
bar. Australians love telling you
the beer in their fridge is colder
than this – thanks! – Spaniards
will turn up four seconds before the game, order a whiskey
and coke if they are forced to,
then disappear straight after…
Americans want to know the daily
specials, and some Africans want
to supply the daily specials.
On bad Beijing habits
Not wanting to leave; thinking
that the pollution was not too big
a problem.
On bad customers
One or two who were too drunk
to even remember being kicked
out. A certain diabetic Spurs fan
and Forest Whitaker lookalike,
who walked with the Hash, knows
what I’m talking about. He loved
to teach customers of all ages
how to correctly (in the words of
an American) “drop the C bomb.”
On Hefei
I walked to a mountain (large
hill) the other day, which was
quite nice. If this was in Beijing, it
would be riddled with eyesores…
However, it was quite pleasant
and no-one bothered us and
there weren’t many people. I’d
even go so far as to say I enjoyed
myself. Hefei seems quieter with
less [people] pointing [at me]
than expected… I think the Corrs
might get some gigs here.
On the future
I’ve always known Anhui was the
next step; over the years I’ve hired
multiple Anhui ayis and now I’m
returning the favor, while pretending to know the difference
between red and black tea.
On returning to Beijing
I hope to be able to get the two
whole boxes of possessions I
have accumulated over 10 years
successfully onto a train to Hefei.
Getting the dogs here may be a
different story: a lot of companies
were telling me I’ve to do lots of
things, shots, licenses etc. Then
my assistant, Tom, said, “Why
don’t you just f*ckin’ drive them
down?” So I will.
I still have investments, so I’ll be
cashing in the millions that can be
made from having bars in Beijing.
But in the words of RFH, I’ll probably be back in a few months,
begging for a job as a waiter.
// Paddy’s used to have a website (www.
paddyosheas.com). It was the saddest thing
you ever saw, but seems to be down now.
Oh, well.
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
19
life&style
style radar
STYLE SECRETS
Made in China
Jeffrey Ying, editor at Lifestyle magazine
What’s your favorite fashion
era?
I'm a fan of late ’60s early ’70s
tailoring, which made the traditional suit more fashionable
and flamboyant.
Have you always been interested in fashion?
Yes, I’d say I have always had
a passion for clothing.
Latest fashion purchase.
A Gucci silk shirt from Tom
Ford’s early days at the brand.
Do you have a style icon?
I have a few, yes, including
people like British shop-owner
and menswear fashion designer
Michael Fish, who had a store
called Mr.Fish in London in the
’60s.
Share two of your Beijing shopping secrets.
I have some of my suits made
at a tailor called Senli & Frye
using fabrics I bring over from
England. Otherwise, I don't
shop locally.
What are the menswear trends
you’re most looking forward to
for fall?
I’m personally looking forward
to wearing my leather trenches
again after this summer.
Worst fashion mistake.
Pleated trousers.
Ubi-nice
How has
Beijing influenced your
aesthetic?
The lack
of cultural
reference
points in
China has
actually emboldened
my wardrobe quite
a bit.
Fashion is…
Good for the parties.
Six of the best… Slippers
Wool
Cashmere
Furry
These beauties are designed with an arch
support to provide additional comfort
along the foot’s natural contours. RMB110.
Toast your tootsies in these fine Mary Ching
cashmere slipper-socks, darling. RMB1,400.
Just like those squishy, awesome slippers
you used to wear when you were a kid.
RMB189.
// Muji, 2/F, Joy City shopping mall, 131 Xidan
Beidajie Chaoyang 朝阳区西单北大街131号
大悦城购物中心2层 5971 6248
// Available at Brand New China, NLG09a, Taikoo Li Village North, Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯VILLAGE北区NLG09a号 (6416 9045)
// Oysho, SM-33, 1/F, Solana Mall, 6 Chaoyang
Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园路6
号蓝色港湾地下1层SM-33 (5905 6830)
Ubi Gallery doesn’t make the
products it showcases, but, as
the first gallery for contemporary
jewelry in China, we thought we’d
show it some love and include it
in this column.
Promoting original design and
one-of-a-kind creations, this little
treasure-trove was founded by
Machtelt Schelling in 2012 as a
“platform to those great designers and artists who through their
work keep us curious.”
Uggly
Leather
Silk
The famous Aussie boot sure is ugly...
but, oh boy, it’s cozy. RMB2,000.
Roam around the house with plenty of
panache in these extra swanky treats.
RMB1,100.
So pretty, you’ll feel like an underdressed
fool in your bathrobe. RMB700.
// BS-20, Solana, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu,
Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾
国际商区品牌街BS-20号 (5905 6839)
// Mary Ching, Available at Brand New China,
NLG-09a, Taikoo Li Village North, Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯VILLAGE北区NLG09a号 (6416 9045)
// Suzhou Cobblers, Available at Brand New
China, NLG-09a, Taikoo Li Village North,
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯VILLAGE
北区NLG-09a号 (6416 9045)
Located in an old teahouse in
the historical neighborhood of
Dashilar, the quaint exhibition
space displays a mix of Chinese,
Asian and international jewelry
designers that exemplify “careful
consideration of materials” as well
as cutting-edge techniques.
A few ceramic pieces, from bowls
to vases, are also displayed.
Every item tells its own story and
connects visitors with a range of
different artists, providing a rare
insight into the world of contemporary handicraft design in China.
// 39 Yangmeizhu Street, Dongcheng,
东城区杨梅竹斜街39号 (6303 7541, www.
ubigallery.com)
20
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
Edited
marianna
cerini cerini
Editedby by
marianna
[email protected]
Street cred
Workout
Joyce,
Chinese, stylist,
wearing a blazer
bought in Korea, a
Givenchy bag and
Comme des Garçons
brogues.
Get fit
Jaqueline,
from Hong Kong,
finance executive,
wearing an H&M top,
custom-made shoes
and trousers, and a
Prada bag.
Jessica, ParkLu
editorial director and
Cici, fashion freelancer,
both Chinese, wearing
a combo of Topshop,
Jil Sanders, Torn by
Ronny Kobo and Miss
Sixty.
Life lines
“As a man who lacks
a passion for fleeting
trends, the world
of fashion is like a
speeding train that I
can never manage to
catch. I’d rather wait at the
platform than chase it, for the next
always arrives to replace the one before.
It’s the station around me that doesn’t
change and it’s this that can be truly
// Nescafe shill Han Han’s lyrical take on the meaning of fashion. The writer and former
social commentator took part in the Chinese edition of Burberry’s ‘Art of the Trench’ last
month, an exhibition celebrating the British label’s signature garment through 50 of
Shanghai’s most influential lifestyle figures.
Photos by Angelica Almas
City savvy
If you’ve muttered, “My diet
starts tomorrow” one too
many times, then read the
following carefully: Middle
Kingdom Fitness (MKF) isn’t
just another gym, it’s the ultimate fatblasting fitness center that will whack your body into shape, for life.
Headed by British man-hulk Tim Hill, MKF doesn’t just want to help
fatties lose weight quickly, it wants to provide them with the requisite
fitness tools to maintain their new bods long after the workout is
over (yep, buy a man a fish and he’ll eat for a day; teach him to fish
and he’ll eat everyday for the rest of his life…). Utilizing basic CrossFit
principles, Hill and his team offer daily classes that integrate elements
of yoga, circuit training, weightlifting and gymnastics, alongside
dietary advice, recovery practices and more, with personalized
programs for one-on-one clients. That means just you and Hill. Think
you can handle it? Drop-in classes are RMB100, check their website
for packages and memberships.
// 129B Guanghua Lu SOHO, Chaoyang, 朝阳区光华路 SOHO 129b (156 5232 6889,
middlekingdomfitness.com)
head to head
Bayankala vs L’Occitane: The purest
natural soap
Bayankala
L’Occitane
What: Bayankala purifying natural soap.
Price: RMB162
What’s in it:
“Extracts of antioxidant-rich Tibetan
Roseroot from the cold
highlands of China's
Yunnan Province.” How very poetic. Also
natural peppermint, eucalyptus and geranium essential oils.
Nasties free? Yep. This is a highly virtuous
soap: all-natural, synthetic-free and fair
trade. Can’t get more ethical than that.
Smells like: A crisp summer morning
(we’re rolling with the poetic vibe here).
Better than any perfumery.
Purity level: High. Extremely gentle and
moisturizing. It removes make-up without stripping.
What: Shea butter extra gentle
soap.
Price: RMB150
What’s in it: Shea butter (8 percent) and
other vegetable cleansing bases, seed oil,
leaf extract, sunflower. Pretty grassy.
Nasties free? Not completely. Although
made mostly of pure essential oils, herbs
and flowers, the soap features some
hydroxide alcohol and perfume. So not all
that natural after all…
Smells like: Woody herbs and floral
concoctions. A wee bit powdery, it smells
a bit like old-fashioned lipstick.
Purity level: OK. Rinses off thoroughly
without stripping moisture, though it
does leave some residue at times.
// 6 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District, 朝
阳区东四环北路6号阳光上东 (5130 7506)
// 1/F Raffles City, 1 Dongzhimen Nandajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区东直门南大街1
号来福士广场1层 (84094006
The Winner: Bayankala. Expensive, but extremely rich, it left our skin balanced, clear and soft.
COVET
Glam it up
Mini arcade
Bold and sassy, this Marimekko pinafore is a
far cry from the unisex, butcher-style, fuddyduddy aprons your mother or grandmother
might have worn. Doing the dishes has never
looked more stylish. It looks great on the
boys too. RMB595.
This one is for the Apple-obsessed man that has it
all – the MacBook Air, the iPad, the iPad Mini – and
no longer knows how to spend his cash. A flashback
to the glory days of gaming, iCade provides the total
arcade-style experience in miniature, complete with
joystick and buttons. Just insert your iPad and start
playing like it’s the 80s. RMB1,500.
// Marimekko, Taikoo Li Sanlitun South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang
朝阳区三里屯路19号, 太古里三里屯南区S8-10D
// TD Store, Sanlitun SOHO B1-503三里屯SOHO B1-503, Chaoyang 朝阳区
三里屯路 (56246901)
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
21
life&style
fashion
Accessorize all areas
Style-perfect accessories you’re going to fall for
BY Marianna Cerini
Be it the handbag to tote all your daily necessities or the scarf that keeps you warm as
temperatures drop, accessories are the fun part of your wardrobe – a no-fail way to update
your look with minimal expense. Here’s our selection of the best on the high street this fall,
from hats to shoes and everything in between.
Silk stole,
RMB149.
// Uniqlo, daily 10am-10pm.
Bldg 10, Sanlitun Village
South, 19 Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三
里屯路19号三里屯Village南
区10号楼(6413 1320, www.
uniqlo.cn)
Woven scarf,
RMB129.
// H&M, daily 10am-10pm.
Raffles City, 1 Dongzhimen
Nandajie, Dongcheng District
东城区东直门南大街1号来
福士广场 (8409 4199, www.
hm.com)
Felt hat,
RMB149.
// H&M, daily 10am-10pm.
Raffles City, 1 Dongzhimen
Nandajie, Dongcheng District
东城区东直门南大街1号来
福士广场 (8409 4199, www.
hm.com)
Knitted hat,
RMB139.
// Zara, daily 10am-10pm.
The Place, 9A Guanghua Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区光
华路甲9号世贸天阶(6587
1341/49, www.zara.cn)
Clean clip backpack, RMB999.
// Topshop, available at Fei
Space, daily 1pm-8pm. B-01
798 Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区酒仙桥路2号798艺术区
B-01(59789580, www.feilook.
com)
Leather bag,
RMB2,800.
// www.smythbrowne.com
22
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
Faux leather
gloves, RMB199.
// H&M, daily 10am-10pm.
Raffles City, 1 Dongzhimen
Nandajie, Dongcheng District
东城区东直门南大街1号来
福士广场(8409 4199,
www.hm.com)
Wool & leather
gloves, RMB590.
// COS, daily 10am-10pm,
Unit LG1-10, Parkview Green,
9 Dongdaqiao Road, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区东大桥路9号
芳草地LG1-10(5690 7890
Metal appliqué
elastic belt,
RMB249.
Shaded metal
tube necklace,
RMB250.
// Mango,daily 10am-10pm.
S10-10,20, Sanlitun Village,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三
里屯Village S10-10 ,20(6416
8027, www.mango.com)
// COS, daily 10am-10pm.
Unit LG1-10, Parkview Green,
9 Dongdaqiao Road, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区东大桥路9号
芳草地LG1-10 5690 7890
Leather
belt,RMB249.
// GAP, daily 10am-10pm.
Shop 177/276, 1/F and 2/F,
Indigo Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙
桥路18号颐堤港商场1层及2
层店铺号177/276 (8426 0386
www.gap.cn)
Print wallet,
RMB179.
// Topman, Fei Space,
daily 1pm-8pm. B-01 798
Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区
酒仙桥路2号798艺术区
B-01(59789580, www.feilook.
com)
Block heel leath- Suede desert
er ankle boots, boots, RMB399.
// GAP, daily 10am-10pm. Shop
RMB899.
// Zara, daily 10am-10pm.
The Place, 9A Guanghua Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区光
华路甲9号世贸天阶(6587
1341/49,
www.zara.cn)
177/276, 1/F and 2/F, Indigo Mall,
18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商
场1层及2层店铺号177/276 (8426
0386 www.gap.cn)
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
23
life&style
Q&A
Yakety yak
Yak-down brand does style with a social touch
BY Marianna Cerini
I
n the snazzy realm of
fashion, Shokay is one of
those (few) brands driving sustainable apparel
forward. Founded in 2006, the
Shanghai-based label-cum-social enterprise has been working hard at bringing Tibetan
yak-down to the international
market in a way that promotes
sustainable style and heritage
handicraft culture. We talk to
co-founder Carol Chyau about
textile innovations, social business models and turning yak
fiber into the new cashmere.
How did Shokay come about?
The idea for Shokay came to life
while my co-founder and I were
studying at the Harvard Kennedy
School of Government and were
curious about what social enterprises could do in China. We
started thinking about what kind
of role we could play to foster
24
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
sustainable business models and,
with that in mind, we consciously
headed to western China, starting with Yunnan. We looked at
the abundant resources of that
area, exploring ways to properly utilize them while also
connecting with the market.
We discovered yak and took
our venture from there.
international distributors and
wholesalers. By this point, the
value of the products has increased tenfold.
What’s your goal?
To revolutionize the use of yak
fiber in the luxury fashion market
and educate consumers. Yakdown fiber is highly comparable
to cashmere, it’s extremely warm
and very soft – and yet we don’t
see it in department stores
alongside wool, alpaca and cashmere. That, of course, is due to
the fact that 80 percent of the
fiber is found in western China,
an area that is not well-connected to the rest of the world.
Chinese textile factories are not
known to be the most innovative, so they have never really
pushed yak-down nor presented it to the global industry.
You have a very interesting
business model, for which
you’re often the subject of
academic case studies. Can
you tell us about it?
Shokay’s business model ranges from sourcing raw yak fibers all the way to retailing the
final knitted products, providing a sustainable source of
employment and income for
a number of cooperatives across
the country.
We source most of our yak fibers from Tibetan herders in the
Hei Ma He Township in Qinghai
Province. We then send the fiber
to combers and spinners in other
parts of China to be turned into
fine yarns. Once that’s done,
the yarns are hand-knitted or
woven into luxury lifestyle products by women in Chongming
Island, just off Shanghai, upon
directions from a team of international designers based in our
Shanghai office. We then sell
the finished items – accessories,
garments, home objects – to
That’s what we’re striving to
change with Shokay. The more
we treat yak-down as a luxury
and noble fiber, the more it will
become viable and accepted
among fashion makers and consumers.
Have you seen a change in the
market since you launched
Shokay?
Yes. Consumers are always looking for products with stories. In
this respect, yak-down sparks a lot
of curiosity and interest. As people are becoming more conscious
about what they eat and what
they wear, they’ve started paying
more attention to the subject of
sustainability. At the same time,
bestowing new value to what
used to be a rather unknown
textile means we can pay herders
more.
What do you think is the most
difficult part of the entire manufacturing process?
Probably dying the fiber. Yakdown is a dark brown fiber, so we
have to bleach it first before we
can dye it other colors. Keeping
hues consistent is quite hard, as
yak hair is similar to human hair:
they all come in different shades.
Every year is different.
How do you tell if the yak-down
is good or not?
When we look at any luxury fiber,
it’s all about the length and the
thickness of the fiber. The longer
the fiber the more luxurious; the
finer the fiber, the softer. People
are generally under the impression that cashmere is the most
expensive fiber, but really you
need to look at what grade of
cashmere you are buying. It’s the
same as shopping for diamonds: a
different cut of the gem can have
a different value.
How much yak-down can you get
every year?
The industry is still very young,
so we’re probably only using five
percent of what the whole industry produces. There is still a lot of
growth and a lot of opportunities
to be had. As we don’t kill the
yaks, we have new fibers every
year.
And how much fiber would you
need to make something like a
scarf?
For a heavier winter scarf, probably about five adult yaks.
Have other brand or textile companies shown interest in your
products?
Absolutely. We’ve done a few collaborations and we want to keep
moving in that direction. That’s
also why we present ourselves
as a textile brand: when fashion
designers use our yarns in
their garments they promote
yak-down through their own
labels, which is great. Other
labels ask us to design something for them and we can do
that as well.
What do you think is the
greatest social value Shokay
offers?
Bringing dignity to the
Tibetan communities. Yakdown is integral to Tibetan
culture; it’s an asset. When
we bring our customers to
Qinghai, everyone takes a
sense of pride – the clients
who buy our products and
the herdsmen, as they realize
they are creating something
of value. Shokay strives to
preserve local heritage and
culture and bring it to the
rest of the world – for instance, we always include
personalized nametags with
each item that gets produced, showing the name
and signature of the knitter
who made it.
Do you ever get worried about
having enough fiber for Shokay’s
collections or yarn production?
Well, if the demand ever got so
high that we didn’t have enough,
that would be a good thing... so
no, it wouldn’t worry me!
Beijing bestsellers
Fiction
INFERNO
COUNTRY DRIVING
GONE GIRL
THE FOUNTAINHEAD
HER FEARFUL SYMMETRY
THE DREAM OF THE RED CHAMBER
COMMITTED
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BISTRO COOKING
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SUN TZU'S ART OF WAR
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101 STORIES FOR FOREIGNERS TO
UNDERSTAND CHINESE PEOPLE
EARN WHAT YOU'RE REALLY WORTH
59 SECONDS
OP-NOT FOR TURNING:LIFE
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THE COMPLETE ZAHA HADID
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THE DARE GAME
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weibo.com/pageonechina
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October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
25
life&style
Fashion
ARRIVALS
By Marianna Cerini
Smyth &
Browne
Agent
Provocateur
Launched earlier this summer,
Smyth&Browne is an online
menswear brand that is, according to its two Irish-born,
Shanghai-based founders,
‘undeniably Irish in spirit.’
What that translates into, aesthetically at least, is something
approaching urban, functional
and highly masculine. The
label focuses on sportswear
with a badass yet luxe vibe.
The debut collection, Mark of
a Man, shows a well-appointed line of polos (RMB550),
T-shirts (RMB300-490), bags
(RMB990-2,500) and accessories – think macho cufflinks
(RMB500-600) and tablet
sleeves (RMB300) – which
seamlessly blend together chic
thoughtfully-cut lines and hip
street style.
Here’s one for those gals out
there (most of us, really) who
go frantically lingerie shopping every time they’re back
in their home country, due to
the dire lack of options here in
Beijing. Agent Provocateur has
landed in town. The kinky and
somewhat pricey British brand
has opened its first freestanding store in Parkview Green,
a 560 square feet haven of
underpinnings, spanning the
label’s main collection, classics,
bridal, swimwear, accessories
and beauty ranges. For lingerie
that begs to be admired, this
is one of the hottest names
around, a label that is proud
to put the X in luxury, and definitely one worth investing in –
after all, the clothes which are
seen least often say the most
about us, and good, enticing
underwear makes everyone
happy and the rest of your
clothes look better for it!
// www.smythbrowne.com
Belita Jewelry
As leaves begin to fall and
cooler days roll in, it’s time to
substitute your holiday-ready
gladiator-style cuffs with some
more discreet-looking jewelry.
Belita Jewelry’s latest collection
features simple, elegant pieces
in gold and platinum-plated
sterling silver fused with semiprecious gemstones, for a
luxe-boho feel bound to make
winter styling a total cinch.
Boasting a Middle Eastern
vibe, each weighty piece
showcases a craftsmanship
reminiscent of Bedouin art.
Watermelon greens and pretty
shades of pink offer playful
color choices, while tantalizing tourmaline set in cocktail
rings and single-drop earrings
conjure up a romantic, dreamy
aesthetic. A line of beautifully
made clutches, from beaded
numbers (RMB1,220-1,950)
to crocodile ones (RMB3,5604,160) perfectly complement
each precious sparkle. Jewelry
from RMB890-4,885.
// Block43, Sanlitun Bei Jie, Chaoyang
District朝阳区三里屯北街南43号楼
(186 1092 1585)
26
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
Candy & Caviar
Candy & Caviar is one of those
knitwear brands that have
transformed the way we look
at woollies, taking the genre
in a whole new highly sartorial
direction. The label has been
working hard on redefining
the aesthetics of all-things
cashmere, creating collections
that offer clean, minimal looks
highly suitable to be layered
and styled. Oozing edge and
comfort aplenty, the fall/winter
women’s sweater range features simple lines and elegant
color block contrasts as well as
the brand’s signature ribbedsleeve detail. Each cozy jumper
(RMB2,400) is thoroughly high
in panache and, matched with
an ultra-soft beanie (RMB350
each), makes the perfect wrap
up this season.
//China Central Place, Building 4, Suite
1905 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳
区建国路89号华贸商务楼16号921室
(5203 6581,
www.candyandcaviar.com)
// Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路9号
(6500 5511)
life&style
Interiors
Palace of Solitude
An architect’s design haven
By Marianna Cerini, PHOTOS BY NOEMI CASSANELLI
W
hen an architect moves into a new place, you know his house is going to be twice
as nice as the average pad. Italian ‘Momo’ Andrea Destro was on a relentless hunt
for a unique home where he could settle down. Then, on a Sunday night three
years ago, an ad featuring a quaint one-bed hutong in Gulou caught his attention. He went for a viewing the following day and, by lunchtime, was signing the
lease.
Boasting high ceilings and full-length
windows, the bright, cheerful living room
serves double duty as an at-home office
space and a place to unwind after work.
Much of the house was already renovated
when Destro moved in, although he did add
a few bits: the decorative touches throughout
the space all come from his travels, design
friends and his own discerning creative eye.
28
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
Located near the Lama Temple, the pad offers a
tranquil respite from the hustle and bustle of the
surrounding alleyways. Overlooking the hutong
courtyard, a stunning rooftop grants breathtaking
views of old Beijing.
A passionate cook, Destro has recently
renovated his kitchen, while retaining the
original grey bricks of the old structure.
The bathroom
features an allblack slightly
Art Deco style,
with added
contemporary
comforts.
In the bedroom,
Destro has
added a
bookcase on
top of an old
radiator. The
house keeps
a thoroughly
minimalist
style, with an
interesting
mix of antique
furniture,
hutong
aesthetic and
more modern
pieces.
In addition to his architectural duties, Destro carries out renovation projects on hutong homes throughout Beijing. If you’d like to get in touch, contact him at [email protected]
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
29
life&style
Hotels
Travel is invigorating: Dennis De Lalinde
D
espite working in the
hotel industry for almost
two decades, Dennis De
Lalinde has lost none of his enthusiasm for hospitality. “I love
the Hotel – its physical structure
and features, but what makes me
really proud, is the team I work
with,” says the General Manager
of the Courtyard by Marriott,
Beijing Northeast. According to
De Lalinde, the team takes care
of what he calls both the hotel’s
“hardware and software.” The
computer analogy is something
he returns to repeatedly
when defining his role.
“Without a good team – a
team you can really rely
on and trust, you cannot
hope to provide a fast and efficient service” he says, referring to
the hotel’s software. “At the same
time a dependable well-organized team is essential to keeping
the hardware of the hotel in perfect optimized condition.”
So is De Lalinde a bit of a computer geek in his spare time? Yes,
but not only that. It turns out De
Lalinde is also a movie and TV
buff too. “I’m currently following
six different TV shows: Boardwalk
Empire, Nikita, Spartacus, Vikings,
The Pillars of the Earth and
Game of Thrones,” he says of
his foremost hobby (away
from work). “I also love to
watch classic movies like
Braveheart and Gladiator; movies built around ideas such as
bravery, honor and nobleness
– where lead actors protect and
defend those who are helpless.”
Originally from Manila in the
Philippines, De Lalinde began his
work in the hotel industry as a
chief accountant, before rising to
take the role of GM. “I’ve worked
in seven different hotels since
1990,” he says of his professional
trajectory. “I started my career
with the Mandarin Oriental Hotel
Group, though I’ve spent most
of time with the Marriott Group.
I view myself as fortunate for
having a strong background in
Finance. It makes decision making more balanced.”
De Lalinde though is not content
to sit back. “Setting and achieving new goals inspires me to do
more. It gives me a feeling of
fulfillment,” he says. His passion
for traveling though, is one of
his main sources of inspiration.
“I joined the industry to meet
people who travel and hear what
they have to say about their
experiences and the places they
have been – I love traveling.”
Grace under pressure: Jui Kretzu
T
he devastating effects of
Hurricane Katrina seem a
long way from the rarified
confines of the Grace Hotel, a
luxury boutique hotel and restaurant set amid Beijing’s sprawling
798 art district. “It seems strange
to think about it now, but the
hurricane was a life defining experience,” explains Grace Hotel
General Manager, Jui Kretzu.
“I was working at the Ritz-Carlton
in downtown New Orleans when
the mandatory evacuation for
the city was issued,” she says of
that fateful August night back in
2005. “As standard procedure, a
skeleton crew would station at the
hotel throughout the hurricane.
It turned out that many stranded
residents came to the hotel just
before the landfall seeking shelter
and we ended up with several
hundred guests "in house". We
secured the building the best we
could, and above all, cared for all
the people in the building under
a very dire situation until we were
successfully evacuated.”
30
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
Kretzu is not a large or particularly
intimidating women, she is by
her own admission rather “tiny”.
Yet when the city’s levees broke
on August 29 releasing tens of
billions of gallons of water and
partially submerging the hotel, it
was left to “this small little Asian
woman” working alongside her
colleagues to organize the daily
tasks and to prepare for the days
ahead. “We spent six-days trapped
in the hotel,” she says of the experience. “We had to ration supplies,
deal with looters, aid the sick… it
was tough. But we got through it.”
Talking to Kretzu it becomes obvious that her inner-strength is a
true force of nature. “There’s not
much that scares me,” she says
somewhat self-depreciatingly.
“Once you’ve lived through an
event such as Katrina, managing
a hotel under normal conditions
becomes a reward.”
Born in Taipei to Taiwanese parents, Kretzu moved to Brazil as a
young child before later picking
up again as an adult and moving
north to the US. “I didn’t think I’d
ever leave the States at that point,”
she says. “But then a change of
events occurred and I moved to
Shanghai in 2010; I’ve always enjoyed a challenge.”
After success in both Shanghai and
Guangzhou at the Ritz-Carlton,
Kretzu was approached by Grace
Hotel. “I came up here [to Beijing]
and it was snowing – and I just
thought wow! This place is so
incredible.”
The sophisticated and stylish Grace
Hotel feels like a perfect match for
Kretzu. “The hotel is small enough
to get to the guests in person; it’s
very different to the big international chains,” she says of the hotel’s charm. “We have artists and
interesting people from across the
world – the conversation is never
boring.” The same could be said
for a meeting with Kretzu.
Grace Hotel, 2 Yard, 798 art district, Jiuxianqiao
Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥北路
798艺术区2号院 Grace Beijing (6436 1818)
Of course, working for an international branded hotel does
not differ all that much across
continents. However, as De
Lalinde notes, “people working
in the hotels differ from country
to country, especially in terms
of their priorities and personal
choices in life.”
These differences mean that De
Lalinde is rarely bored. “There are
always new challenges involved
in moving to a new place,” he
says. “Fortunately, Beijingers are
very friendly. On the other hand,
I find the weather in Beijing a
challenge – specially during winter as it becomes so dry!”
Does he like Beijing? “It’s an
amazing city,” he says. “A big city
with a lot of history, at the heart
of China’s history for centuries
and is renowned for its opulent
palaces, temples, and huge stone
walls and gates – I hope to spend
many years here, and hopefully
enjoy much success.”
// Courtyard by Marriott, 101 Jingmi Lu,
Chaoyang, District 朝阳区京密路101号
北京万怡酒店(5907 6666)
SPA
Wrap up your day at Bodhi Therapeutic Retreat
W
ith its convenient location on Gongti Beilu
– opposite the stadium, tucked just behind Cuccina
kitchen ware – just a stoner’s
throw from the nightlife hotspots
of Xilu and Sanlitun, Bodhi offers a tranquil retreat in which to
pamper and preen oneself before
hitting the bricks and getting a
bit messy.
And just because the Sex and the
City chicks have got the whole
treat-yourself-before-you-wreckyourself culture down to a fine
art, doesn’t mean the gents can’t
enjoy the fun too. To celebrate a
full nine years of their continuous
business, one of our manly
editors took a stroll down to
Bodhi to see what they got, and
what’s what.
The current special is something
called a Cleopatra Treatment
(RMB588). If it’s good enough for
the face that launched a thousand ships – a bruising experience, surely – it’s good enough
for us. Although the Egyptian
There’s nothing like a full-body
deep-tissue aromatherapy massage – none of the wince-inducing muscle rubs of the traditional
Chinese medicinal massage, or
the body-popping contortions of
a Thai-style session.
ruler is famous for bathing in
asses’ milk and being portrayed
on screen by Elizabeth Taylor,
this treatment is a little different
(although Bodhi does offer aromatherapy baths for RMB300 in
advance, ass milk not included).
Instead, this treatment involves
taking a shower, donning panties made out of something akin
to rice paper, then being oiled
up, exfoliated, and covered in a
nourishing, balanced milk-honey
wrap which “restores balance
and harmony to complexions.”
Suitably scrubbed, the masseuse
then shroud the entire body in
plastic padded with towels.
Being soaked in lubricant and
sheathed like a human condom
is probably something that
the ladies who lunch get up to
the whole time without telling us. For us, there followed a
15-minute fever dream that we
assume was part of the experience (if not, it’s a bonus). Then
it’s back in the shower to remove
the creamy scrub.
Here comes the massage: a
soothing yet invigorating treatment that will knead all the
tension from your shoulder and
back, while leaving you poised
and alert for an evening’s carousing.
Just a blissful feeling of being
looked after by a professional.
Meanwhile, come winter, Bodhi
uses paraffin and Vitamin E to
ease tension and aid moisture
absorption.
To mark their near-decade
anniversary and thank their loyal
customers, Bodhi are offering the
following exclusive benefits. With
purchase of a RMB3,000 VIP card,
a free Thai neck pillow; RMB5,000
two extra Chinese body massage
vouchers and a Thai neck pillow;
RMB10,000, two extra Chinese
body massage vouchers and a
Thai axe cushion.
// Daily 11am-12.30am. 17 Gongti Beilu,
Chaoyang District朝阳区工体北路17号
(6417 9595)
Iridium Spa at the St. Regis Hotel
I
f you’re in need of a quick
pampering fix this October
holiday try the Iridium Spa at
the St. Regis Hotel, Jianguomen.
As those unwelcome winter chills
are fast approaching, prepare
with an Ayurveda Autumn Boost
massage, which can help ease
those aches and pains and retain
your summer glow. Prices are
RMB799 for 55 mins; RMB999 for
90 minutes with a Vichy natural
hot springs shower.
Ayurveda is one of India’s oldest
healing techniques, meaning
literally – and rather loosely – the
“science of life”. Given that this
dates back 5,000 years, we’re not
talking cells or protons, rather
the classic five elements that all
Mother Nature’s creations
naturally consist of: earth, water,
fire, air and, er, space.
I’m not how much fire is in my
belly when I prepare myself for
a spa treatment, but Ayurveda
seeks to work with the unique
balance of these elements that
all people possess, amounting,
more simply, to an incredibly
soothing and rejuvenating spa
experience.
Choose from a range of fragrant
and intoxicating oils – I chose
Ginger and Lime, but not before
it was suggested my initial choice
of Rose Petal was perhaps a bit
too feminine for a man of sixfoot-four. Then let your those
supple hands work out every niggle and knotted muscle in your
body as the delicate sounds of indeterminate stringed instruments
ease your mind into a relaxing
journey of unpredictable meanderings. WP
// 21 Jianguomen Wai Jie, Chaoyang District
朝阳区建国门外大街21号 (6460 6688)
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
31
collage
arts
Drum Roll
Andy Lau
FILM
Coming to a theater near you…
9/27
Of all the acts coming this month,
none have aged as gracefully as
Chollywood superstar Andy Lau.
But then again, none have had the
same plastic surgeon, either.
That’s right you beautiful fools:
We’re talking about Lau - the
51-year-old Cantopop renaissance
man who went from acting to TV
to the big screen to become one of
the highest-grossing box-office actors in Asia, behind Stephen Chow
and Jackie Chan (but don’t tell him
that). And all before most of you
were born.
All the while, Lau has crooned and
careened his way into the hearts
of women (and some men) across
Asia with hits such as “Love Doves,”
“I Don’t Love You Enough” and
“Continue to Love” – mostly sung
while wearing a half-buttoned shirt.
And, of course, girls. Some are
dancing, some are in lingerie,
but the real ones to catch are the
MILF-ish ones in the audience, still
screaming like Lau’s forever 21.
James Tiscione
//RMB280-1,680, Oct 30 to Nov 1, 8pm.
Mastercard Arena (formerly Wukesong Stadium),
Fuxing Lu, Haidian District. 万事达中心, 海淀
区复兴路 (6828 6386)
32
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
10/17
Jobs
The Wolverine
Ashton Kutcher as Steve Jobs?
It’s time for your curiosity
about this seemingly incongruous match-up to be satisfied.
Ranging from college to the eve
of the iPod unveiling, this biopic
follows Jobs as he co-founds
Apple, gets booted out by the
board and eventually makes a
triumphant return to pull the
company back from bankruptcy.
Witness a visionary man ruthlessly cut his fellow founders
(and erstwhile friends) out of
shares and ditched his girlfriend
when she became pregnant!
The stuff of fanboy dreams, the
latest film in the X-Men series
asks what Wolverine (Hugh
Jackman, back in form) would
do if he lost his ability to heal.
Combine that small thorn with
the fact that he’s stuck protecting a beautiful heiress from an
army of thugs and you’ve got
an adamantium-clad blockbuster on your hands. Plus, it’s
mostly set in Japan (scene of
Frank Miller’s fanatstic Wolvie
miniseries) and you know what
that means for Hollywood: unsheathe those samurai swords!
Gossip
1.Elysium
2.The Smurfs 2
3.The Stolen Years
4.Silent Witness
5.Jurassic Park 3D
6.Monsters University
7.The Great Gatsby
8.The Impossible
9.The Midas Touch
10.August Eighth
Source: MTime.com
Porn – for kids!
Several publishing houses have
found themselves suspended for
releasing superstitious, violent
or obscene content, including
two which stand accused of pornographic content for children.
Singled out for condemnation
was Those Who Don’t Read It
Upside-down Are Pigs, which appears to be guilty of mocking
schools and scholars with explicit
language (aka porn, apparently…).
To the bonfire with it!
Although Lau is happily married
(at least, according to his website)
and with a new baby daughter, that
hasn’t stopped his fans from growing obsessed – or worse. Notorious
Lau fan cases on the mainland
include Yang Lijuan, a superfan
whose father committed suicide in
2007 after she wasn’t able to meet
Lau in person, and Ao Yanhong,
who 24 years and four suicide attempts later, is still saving her virginity for Lau.
The made-for-stage drama continues with his Always Tour, which has
more costume and set changes
than all Lau’s 18 movies in one.
Sep box office
Babel-icious
Rub-a-dub-dub
Encouraging Chinese literature
abroad, a new competition
is offering USD5,000 for the
best translation of a Chinese
short story into English, French,
Spanish, Russian or Arabic. The
China International Translating
Contest, which closes at the
end of February 2014, has a
selection of 30 different tales for
translation, including pieces by
Mao Dun Literature Prize winner
and Nobel laureate Mo Yan.
Until now, all Hong Kongproduced Cantonese films shown
in mainland cinemas have been
dubbed into Mandarin (excluding Guangdong). That’s all set to
change next year, thanks to a new
supplement to the Mainland and
Hong Kong’s Closer Economic
Partnership Arrangement, which
will ensure those slightly surreal
moments when mouths and
voices don’t quite synch are a
thing of the past.
Edited by james tiscione
[email protected]
High Notes
We are the world: Post Mountain Music and Arts Festival
ancient winds – performing along
original choreography inspired by
ancient Khmer dance.
10/22: Purna Das Baul (India) This is perhaps a once-in-a-lifetime
chance to see the 80-year-old
master of the Baul musical tradition
– a group of wandering Bengali
mystics, who have passed on an
oral tradition for rhythmic songs of
healing and energy down through
the centuries.
Beijing is now hosting some of
the world’s most renowned traditional talents. Alhough many
are funded by embassies, we can
thank the tireless efforts of China
Daily music writer (turned Asia
music scholar) Mu Qian for using
his contacts to create the Post
Mountain Music and Arts Festival.
Catch over a dozen musicians from
Cambodia to Kashgar next month
at Broadway MOMA’s underused
Post Mountain venue. Here are our
top picks.
10/11: Sophiline Arts Ensemble
(Cambodia) This world-class music and
dance ensemble boasts some of
Cambodia’s most talent pinpeat
musicians – a percussion-rich
orchestral style bursting with the
timbres of xylophones, drums and
10/24: Wild Children (China)
For nearly 20 years, this gang of
four kids have blended northwestern melodies from their native
Gansu with folk rock, featuring the
flying fingers of accordionist Zhang
Weiwei. Wild Children have toured
the world representing some of
China’s best-traveled folk, and in
Beijing, they’ll play to a very, very
packed crowd, sure to include a
few hometowners.
10/25: Yat-Kha (Tuva)
The brainchild of Ruskie Albert
Kuvezin, this folkly-prog outfit
mixes psychedelic rock with the
harmonic growls of Tuvan throat
singing: a cocktail that will resonate
with Beijing’s own Mongolian and
Xinjiang-born musicians. Though
their catalog can be hit or miss,
they are capable of amazing things
live – especially when they turn
down the prog and lean folk-side.
10/27: Parno Graszt (Hungary) Sure to be the sweatiest of highlights, this expert nine-piece ensemble of Hungarian Gypsy musicians
present the sounds of a nationless
tradition that has tapped its feet
across eastern Europe and beyond.
Parno Graszt wins on gang harmony vocals, virtuosi and punch-up
playing - while collectively doing
justice to a musical idiom that has
influenced every flair player from
Liszt to Django. JT
You’ve Never Read
Yu Qiuyu
Like your travel writing with
a side order of history and
a hefty dose of emotional
sublimation plus nostalgia?
You’ll like Yu Qiuyu, then.
In his well-known Hard Culture
Travel (文化苦旅, 1992), for example, Yu visits Gansu and wonders,
“What makes the Mogao Caves
greater than any other relic in the
world? It has accumulated layer
upon layer of culture over more
than a thousand years… [it has]
lasted for a millennium and still
lives and breathes.”
Yu Qiuyu disdained the Internet
because it took up too much time.
Instead, he practiced his art with
the long-suffering asceticism of the
masters of old: from 1975 to 1976,
he lived on a mountain and didn’t
talk to anyone (well, except the
‘spirits,’ maybe).
Yet Yu has a fondness for the
other small screen. As a judge for
CCTV’s National Young Singers’
Competition, he was responsible
for testing the
“cultural quality”
of contestants.
In 2000, he
joined Phoenix
Satellite Television’s The Millennium
Trip looking at cultural heritage
around the world. This prompted
Sigh in A Thousand Year (千年一叹),
similar to Hard Culture Travel, but
set abroad, with Yu chin-stroking
over locales such as Pompeii, the
Nile and the Ganges.
Here he is on Greece: “Besides the
[Aegean], stands before me a cliff
of many pure-white pillars… relics
of the 5th century BC. In the East,
Confucius and Shakyamuni formulated their great ideas. In the West,
beside the sea, philosophers and
artists like Sophocles, Socrates and
Plato came and left. So many wise
stars shining in the same age, any
later ages must be darker.”
Like his sage forebears, Yu is also
an old-fashioned essayist. In About
Age, he muses: “People like to
praise young love. But at that
age… it is hard even to be clear
about oneself. So how can one
make the right choice of life partner? The decision you make will
not be correct… By middle age,
people finally find their ‘special
ones,’ but it’s less meaningful by
then. They have responsibilities on
their shoulders; they can’t be together. Maybe the only thing one
can do is nod a greeting and bid
her farewell.”
Maybe – except Yu, in fact, married
young and it wasn’t until he was
46 that he found his ‘special one’
in 1992. But instead of “nodding a
greeting and bidding her farewell,”
he got divorced and remarried a
woman 17 years his junior.
Still, backing fine words with good
deeds is not strictly necessary for a
man of Yu’s stature – he has been
called a literary master by some.
Writer Wang Anyi calls Yu “brave”
and thinks that, in Hard Culture
Travel, “Yu dared to put heavy
thoughts about history and culture
in… a form of literature that has
tended to be more light-hearted
and fickle.”
Others think he is all style, no substance. “Yu always avoids touching
on real problems in the world,” says
Taiwanese critic and writer Li Ao.
“He’s just playing, and only writes
travel notes.”
Yu wouldn’t be a notable writer
without some accusations. They
have come thick and fast: that Yu
was a senior propagandist during
the Cultural Revolution; he falsified donations after the Sichuan
earthquake; and a stooge who told
some earthquake victims to stop
complaining.
Some of these have been disproved. Others have stuck,
prompting Yu to abandon his
mountain retreat and go online.
He now has a blog and a Weibo
account, and was last heard of
angrily scotching rumors that he is
getting divorced again. Welcome
to the Internet, Yu. Karoline Kan
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
33
arts
Underground
Godfather
of the Month
Drop the Lime
Godfather of: Various
Age: Unknown
Fact: Originally known as Walk the Line, a pro-
the drop
Beats, blops and breakz
BY Alex Taggart
H
aving spent the last couple of weekends giving
out flyers in Wudaokou
and Sanlitun (hustler’s gotta
hustle), I’ve noticed a proliferation of newly arrived ravers.
Each fresher-faced than the last,
they stumble around Sanlitun
Houjie sheepishly asking for directions to Lantern, looking for
presale tickets to big-name DJs,
and exhibiting a healthy disdain
for Mix and Vics. Welcome,
newbies – you’ve come to the
right place.
Following on from a starstudded September, the EDM
on offer in October is a little
more low-key, but definitely
more interesting. First off,
up-and-coming drum ‘n’ bass
promoters Legacy make their
debut international booking
with Eastcolors, a Russian-based
DJ and producer who tends
towards the darker, moodier,
Ruskier end of the scale. This
one’s at Lantern on October 4,
so check it out if you’re (wisely)
avoiding the National Day rush.
Promoters Antidote basically rule the ‘DJs-you’ve-neverheard-of-but-trust-us-you’lllike-them’ game, and on the
19th at Dada, they’ve got Jon
Kennedy, an OG British trip-hop
Faking It
Goldiloxx
...plays DJ for hire in Beijing
D
espite my nervousness
I’m able to take in my
surroundings – the rather desolate outer ends of the
Dashanzi Art District. Goldiloxx
– aka me – is about to take center stage for the very first time.
The lights blare down. Knees
are weak, palms very sweaty.
An African man in a ridiculous
shiny silver suit starts talking to
me about my “set”. A squat man
passes me a bottle of Nongfu
water. “You play music now” he
says encouragingly.
This isn’t really how I pictured
beginning my career as a “DJ”
– but that’s because I’d never
really pictured it at all. I’m not
a real DJ (obviously, that’s way
too much hard work), I have
limited musical knowledge and
I don't own a pair of real decks.
34
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
Instead I’m here because I need
the cash and "teaching English"
wasn’t cutting it. Plus apparently
I look like Paris Hilton (I have
blonde hair). A friend suggested
I become a foreign DJ for hire
at corporate gigs. “It’s basically
just bouncing around facing the
wrong way in a Chinese club
while wearing a massive pair of
headphones, ” she said. “How
hard can it be?” I was about to
find out.
Back to Dashanzi and it’s 7pm.
It’s still daylight. I’ve arrived at
the tail end of the launch event
for some digital watch company.
The more sensible guests have
already taken their goody-bags
and departed. The silver-suited
African man, it turns out, has
been booked to be my ‘hypeman’ MC – which means dress-
moter at an early gig misheard the name over the
phone, and printed flyers
touting “Drop the Lime.”
//RMB 60, Oct 18, Dada, Rm
101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong
Dajie, Dongcheng District (1831108-0818; weibo.com/dadabj)
guy who will almost certainly be
very good. It’s one of those gigs
where it’s difficult to say exactly
what he’ll play, but it’ll likely be
a combination of head-bobbing
dreaminess, followed by danceheavy beats later on.
Also at Dada the following
Friday (the 25th), tried-andtrusted Beijing bass party The
Drop (no relation to this column) rolls into Gulou for the
very first time, with a double
bill of foreign DJs: Crown Duels
from the UK and Italy’s Ariel
Camusso, with local support.
Both play innovative, bouncy
bass music – expect solid vibes.
ing like a corrupt Ugandan
Baptist pastor and shouting unintelligible words at the crowd.
Relaxing slightly after a few
songs, I finally dare to look up
from the controls. Not a single person in an audience of
perhaps 100 is even standing
up, let alone dancing. Most of
them are over the age of 30
and seated rather expectantly,
as though waiting for the main
act to begin. My Hype Man is
‘The stage is set,
the lights blare
down. Just how
hard can it be?’
not looking too impressed. “I’m
kind of building the set, you
know, working the crowd,” I
break off to shout in his ear. Did
Daft Punk start out like this?
The distance between the audience and me must be 25 feet. In
between this expanse is a small
Then, looming out from the
deep end of October comes that
yearly night of designated fun
time: Halloween. The parties
fall on the 26th this year, and if
you’re looking for dependable
EDM and/or to hook up with
a sweaty student, go to Yen
Fetish. For details, ask basically
anyone. However, Lantern’s
Halloween party, Spooked, gets
my vote. There will be “free
body paint and hair styling”
(presumably for those terribly
interesting people who prefer
to outsource their costume creativity), and terrifyingly heavy
techno from Weng Weng and
the Lantern crew.
gaggle of professional looking
cameras, presumably filming the
event for the company’s benefit.
Others, I notice, are merely
random passersby, bemused by
the presence of a blonde laowai
nervously twiddling controllers
and squirming beneath the
floodlights. Daft punk did not
start out like this.
After about half an hour of
admirable attempts to get the
crowd to “Rock this party” and
“Put their hands up” my Hype
Man eventually admits defeat.
With a mutter of “f*ck this sh*t”
into the mic, he retreats into the
sound box, leaving me alone
to try and get some life out of
these expressionless suits. With
half an hour still to go I revert to
plan B and drop Gangnam Style.
Several songs later and my time
in the spotlight is finally over. As
I fade out my final track, (Guetta,
naturally) the silence becomes
DEAFENING. Tough crowd, but
I got the job done. And it pays
better than teaching English.
Is this just the beginning for
Goldiloxx?.
books
A fistful of ‘dollars’
More Dark, wry short stories from satirist Zhu Wen
By Aelred Doyle
“
As I’ve reviewed my past
over the last couple of years,
I’ve started to feel like I was
suffocating. I suddenly felt that for
decades, I haven’t been living the
life I should have led – that I’ve
betrayed, that I’ve wandered too
far and free from my true destiny.
I’ve realized this far too late.”
He’s thrown by classmate Da
Ma, though, who brings chaos
with him and simply cannot fit in
with his obscenity-laced speech
patterns (transcribed in musical
notation at one point), infecting
everyone he meets to the point
where you can immediately tell if
someone knows him.
Zhu Wen, still perhaps best
known for his 1994 debut novella, I Love Dollars, is back with
a wonderful collection of stories,
The Matchmaker, The Apprentice
and The Football Fan. Bringing
together seven pieces written
back in the 90s, with one more
recent work, The Matchmaker
takes a dark – and not particularly
positive – view on the state of the
nation. (When Dollars was first
published, it was denounced as
“full of hooliganism and shameless words,” by a furious Jian Ping
of the Xinmin Evening News).
Da’s the kind of guy who points
his loaded gun at a soldier during
mandatory junxun military training, thinking it’s a harmless prank
and nobody will mind. Whether
he’s a tragic figure or not, there’s
no place for him in the world.
Short stories need to stick the
landing, of course, and Zhu does
excellent, evocative endings. In
the very funny ‘Reeducation,’ the
country’s whole university class
is called back 10 years later for
Operation Rebake – the name is
superbly plausible – a fully
financed nationwide effort drawing great support. Absurdity
ensues, yet the final image of the
narrator’s group on a bus, heading to parts unknown, is as dark
as anything else in the book.
But The Matchmaker is also rambunctious, funny and a pleasure
throughout. Zhu specializes in
taking tropes we’ve seen before –
factory life, the doomed misfit,
arranging a marriage partner –
and turning them a few degrees
at a time. Perhaps only on the
final page does the reader fully
grasp how far the narrative has
veered from straight realism.
The early stories belong to a
different era in China, one where
university graduates were
assigned to factory jobs. The
narrator of ‘The Apprentice’ is
quite keen on this; he’s “delighted
by how much the workers swore
– and particularly by how freely
and foully they expressed their
contempt for the upper-level
leadership… since July, I had been
eagerly awaiting my elevation to
the working class.”
And nothing terrible happens to
him as time goes on. He is not
laid low by corruption, nor mistreated. On one day, he can’t find
a way to stop playing ping-pong
with older workmates; back at his
lodgings, he finds himself faced
with a vile meal (“Dread prickled
my spine. ‘Egg!’ the girl opposite
me screeched”).
He wins at cards, then can’t sleep.
“I began running as soon as I was
‘This is a dark – and not very positive
– view on the state of the nation’
out the gate, faster – and faster
– and faster.” Here, and in other
stories, we were reminded of
Kazuo Ishiguro’s The Unconsoled:
each step is plausible but nothing
seems quite right.
‘The Football Fan’ hums at a
higher pitch of unease from the
start, with the narrator repeating the same six-sentence selfdescription every couple of pages
throughout, while describing
his position as a factory worker,
small-time thief and football fan
– though he’s not a fan of the
local league: “All those crowds
of overexcited fans, waving their
arms and screaming hysterically,
shouting obscenities. They’re not
really screaming about football,
you know.”
He sells his blood to buy a ticket
to see Maradona play, but the
match is cancelled. He becomes
increasingly fearful, and the story
more disturbing, as the identity of
his interlocutors becomes clear:
“I’ve finally worked out why I’m
shaking. It’s because I’m afraid.”
Some stories are lighter but
without exception there is plenty of black humor and knowing
winks from the author. In ‘Da
Ma’s Way of Talking,’ the narrator asserts that “A writer, gentle
reader, is an individual of iron
self-control.”
Similarly, ‘Mr. Hu, Are You Coming
Out to Play Basketball this
Afternoon?’ is a moving, sad story
that only reveals the worst in its
final lines. And ‘The Wharf,’ first
published a decade later than the
other stories, blends the knockabout farce of one man’s hapless
efforts to successfully raise a pig
with the sadness of an aging
architect – and then shoves the
knife in with the bravura last line.
This is a superbly fluid translation
by well-known Sinologist, and
author of 2011’s The Opium Wars:
Drugs, Dreams and the Making of
China, Julia Lovell, who also translated Dollars. The prose is wry and
light, high on narrative voice and
low on weighty metaphor, which
can’t have been easy to achieve.
Chinese and English are such different languages, with different
literary traditions, that the former
has a tendency to feel worthy and
overloaded in English translation
– not here. We can’t recommend
this book highly enough.
// ‘The Matchmaker And Other Stories’ available at
Page One and The Bookworm
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
35
arts
special report: Classical Music
Notes on a Scandal
A symphony of corruption plAYS on at some of the country’s
BY James Tiscione
F
or young musicians looking
to enter Beijing’s prestigious Central Conservatory of
Music (CCOM), the jury audition is
the most stressful performance of
their nascent careers.
For many of their professors,
however, it’s the most profitable
time of the year.
“The new semester is when
they make all their money,”
admits one professor over
lunch, requesting anonymity.
“Students and parents have
already handed out cash
hongbao to most or all of the
professors who will sit on their
jury panels.”
“I had parents from Dongbei
[north-east China] calling me
up three weeks before the
exams, asking how can we
‘maneuver’ this,” says another
professor, who also asked not
to be identified but who says
bribes often reach into the
hundreds of thousands. “Of
course, parents want to do
everything for their kids.
Especially when
they have
money.” The Ministry of Education has
been attempting to root out a
culture of bribery in China’s conservatories for years; there’s talk
of crackdowns from officials every
time a scandal pops up. But it’s
especially hard to enforce rules
of evaluation on conservatory admission panels, where decisions
are always more subjective.
“Although the Ministry of
Education announces its crackdown on corruption every year,
arts institutions always seem to
fall from the cracks” says Lao
Kaisheng, head of the School
of Education at Capital Normal
University who specializes in
education policy. “Most universities are now kept in line with test
scores, which have to be inputted
into a database. But arts schools,
where admissions are based on
aesthetic standards and decided
by a select few, are completely
immune to oversight.
“This environment
that breeds
sexual favors
and bribery,”
Lao adds.
Reports of
corruption surfaced in 2004,
when CCOM’s
next-door
neighbors,
the China
Conservatory
of Music,
found
itself embroiled in scandal after erhu professor Song Fei spoke
out to reporters over unfair admissions practices. The same year,
the People’s Daily reported that
the Xi’an Conservatory of Music
had essentially blackmailed all
enrolling students for a
mandatory RMB30,000 fee, under
threat they would have their applications pulled. ‘Parents want to
do everything
for their kids.
Especially when
they have money’
“Just ask any student from any
conservatory. You’ll get the same
answer,” says ‘Zhao,’ who recently
tested into the CCOM vocal department (she also requested not
to be identified). “If you get into
the top five, you’ll get in without
paying a cent. But if you’re ninth
or tenth, you’re either out of luck
or you need to bring a ‘gift’ to
your audition. In all fairness, if
you’ve ranked even lower...even if
you come with keys to a new car,
there’s nothing you can do.
“If you’re truly talentless, there’s
no professor who’d want to claim
you as a student, for any price,”
she explains.
The persistence of student scandals illustrates the
36
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
top music schools
long-enjoyed autonomy of
conservatories in an under-supervised system, one in which CCOM
sits at the very top.
“It’s like a headless monster,” says
one professor. “There’s no one
to point to and accuse. There’s
no individual who can take responsibility for a system that has
always existed. “But if you do
have new ways of thinking, there
is conflict.”
Originally the Music Department
of PKU, CCOM became a separate
entity in 1950, along with the
Central Academy of Drama (CAD)
and the China Central Academy
of Fine Arts (CCAFA), enjoying
the prestige and recognition
that only a brand-name ‘Central’
school provides. Alumni include composer Tan
Dun, pianist Lang Lang and poprocker Wang Feng (who named
his first band 43 Baojia Street, the
school’s address). Yet the school’s Soviet-era pedagogy and average facilities may
make its attraction hard to understand for some. Alumni benefit
from a strong network of connections that, played right, can
ensure positions in orchestras,
media companies or, in many
cases, jobs back at the school –
hence its popularity.
Unlike many Western conservatories, CCOM tends to hire from its
own pool of doctoral graduates,
once taught by the same professors. The constant inbreeding
creates an environment of favoritism and allegiances – or, as one
professor describes it, “Most professors here were never
professional
musicians. They were students
last week, and became teachers
the very next.”
Also strikingly different is that,
despite its downtown location,
the school exists in almost selfimposed isolation. Apart from the
Beijing Modern Music Festival,
there is little-to-no effort made
to publicize weekly recitals or
even performances by visiting
musicians. Posters for events are
rarely seen off campus. Often
whole festivals – such as the
annual modern music Musica
Acoustica conference this month
– go completely unnoticed outside of Chinese academia. ‘They told me the
“best” candidate
doesn’t mean the
“most suitable”’
Such isolation also comes with its
advantages, though: CCOM has
averaged just one scandal a year
since 2009. The rest of the cases
reported never really resonated
beyond the gates. But even the
most esteemed ivory towers are
no longer completely immune
from public scrutiny.
The most recent affair popped up
in July, when acclaimed
percussionist Wang Beibei posted
an open letter on Weibo,
accusing CCOM of corrupt hiring
practices after she was turned
down for a teaching position at
the Music School Attached to
the Central Conservatory of Music
in Xicheng district.
Wang, an alumnus of CCOM
pursuing a second degree at the
UK’s Royal College of
Music, has
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
37
arts
special report: classical music
Clockwise from far left: Professor Liang
Maochun with student Zou Jiahong; Liang
Maochun; Percussionist Wang Beibei;
Professor Li Kai.
already appeared with major
orchestras throughout Europe,
performed solo at the United
Nations and was included in the
2012 ‘Sounds of the East’ list of 50
Chinese musicians recommended
by the Ministry of Culture. Yet her
application was ultimately passed
over in favor of a graduate student, fresh out of school.
“They told me the ‘best’ doesn’t
mean the ‘most suitable.’ This
runs completely counter to recruiting based on merit,” reads
her letter, which was reposted
thousands of times and currently
has over 1.2 million views. Wang had twice traveled from
her home in London to Beijing for
interviews. Despite an outpouring
of support online, school affiliates pointed out her lack of solid
evidence and dismissed her accusations as nothing more than a
temper tantrum. “If you had gotten the job,
wouldn’t there be someone else
talking about scandals?” asked
percussion professor and jurist
Wang Jianhua in response. Refraining from direct accusations, Wang points to a lack of
overall transparency and decisions that don’t add up in a supposed meritocratic system.
“To talk about connections
is nothing new, especially in
places like conservatories,” Music
38
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
Weekly, a Chinese paper covering
news from pop to classical, commented. “But if Wang has done
anything, she has exposed once
again the unspoken rules and the
people that play the game – albeit from a position of weakness.”
Wang’s is just the latest annual
episode to have garnered unwanted attention for the school.
In 2009, Liang Maochun, a
73-year-old doctoral tutor
came clean about an affair
with a 30-something doctoral
candidate called Zou Jiahong,
the People’s Daily reported. Hardly an academic first – but
Liang also admitted to taking
RMB100,000 to ensure Zou’s
degree was approved. Liang only
confessed after fearing Zou would
expose the transaction.
“[Liang] was honest while confessing to the school in a tearful
voice,” a CCOM spokesman told
the Beijing News, adding the case
was “the first time such a scandal
had occurred since the school
was founded in 1950.” The school called for students
“not to trust any promises made
by a professor, or other intermediary, regarding degrees.”
Far from this dampening faculty
spirits, however, 2012 proved a
bumper year for sex scandals –
even if some played no louder
than pianissimo in state media.
‘Far from
the scandals
dampening
faculty spirits,
2012 proved a
bumper year for
sex scandals’
In May 2012, CCOM guitar
professor Li Kai was fired for alleged multiple relationships with
students in his studio. In June,
accordion professor Cao Xiaoqing
was treated for multiple stab
wounds, resulting from an angry
father who found his wife had an
affair with Cao to help with their
daughter’s admission. But it was the tragic suicide of
52-year-old piano professor Wu
Long that finally made local headlines. Wu, an American citizen,
jumped from his 17-story Xicheng
apartment building.
CCOM colleagues described Dr.
Wu as an introvert under work
pressure. The school stated he
was having “problems at home.”
His wife, Wang Lin, chose to break
the official silence. Her husband,
a professor at CCOM for eight
years, had suffered from clinical
depression, Wang told Southern
People Weekly. He had become increasingly
distressed about the school’s
reluctance to confirm a new
contract; without one, he would
be without a valid work visa. “He
always said this is where all the
best students come,” Wang Lin
said. “This is the price we paid for
coming back [from the US].” Quite why a straightforward contract renewal ended so tragically
may never be explained; insiders
say that CCOM contracts can be
an expensive process, with ‘negotiations’ often including bribes.
Like most organizations, CCOM
suffers from a systemic illness
rather than a philosophical one.
There are still academics who nurture differences and talents that
achieve worldwide fame.
But until sweeping changes take
place, both professors and students are held hostage to rules
that persist at nearly all institutions, experts fear.
“It’s funny because, as educators,
we’re supposed to be preparing
them for the concert-hall stage,”
says one professor. “Instead, they
are only learning how to perform
on a bigger one – society. But that
is the greatest stage, isn’t it?”
// Names of academics and students were
withheld at their request.
film
BumpY Ride ahead?
The sex-fueled romp fusing ‘Rain Man’ with comedy
By Felix Hamer
Scene from Bump in the Road
F
rom parody to action to
arthouse, Jessica Kam is a
producer who enjoys more
than a dash of variety. Her Just
Another Pandora’s Box (2010)
poked fun at movies like Kung
Fu Panda and House of Flying
Daggers to rake in RMB130 million, while quirky 2010 indiecomedy The Piano in a Factory
made the film festivals rounds,
snagging awards as it went.
‘You put someone who is mentally
retarded on Chinese screens and that
might not be such an easy sell’
insists that he bring his brother
along for the ride – an adult
with the IQ of a seven year old.
retarded on Chinese screens and
that might not be such an easy
sell,” Kam says bluntly.
Her latest project bears some
similarities to box-office sensation Lost in Thailand, centering
as it does on an oddball pairing
and a cross-country road trip.
Bump in the Road tells the story
of an obstetrician womanizer
who, out of the blue, receives
an email from an anonymous
woman telling him he’s the
father of her child.
Taking its cue from the Oscarwinning 1988 flick Rain Man and
acclaimed Belgian movie The
Eighth Day (1996), the script was
a year in the writing, though it
took only four months to film.
“If you ask me whether I’m completely satisfied with the script,
I’ll say, ‘There’s always room for
improvement,’” remarks Kam,
“but the story is very strong and
there’s a very powerful ending.”
Though at first he ignores it, he
soon begins experiencing erectile dysfunction – and so decides
to track down the mystery lady
in order to regain his mojo. To
complicate matters, his mother
The creators chose not to use
an actor with an actual development disorder – as in The
Eighth Day – for fear of alienating domestic audiences. “You
put someone who is mentally
An accomplished businesswoman, Hong Kong-born and
American-educated Kam previously developed shows at MTV
and later helped repackage
Tarantino favorites the Shaw
Brothers’ martial-arts classics,
after the studio was bought
by Celestial Pictures. Having
worked for five years in the
Chinese film industry, she’s accustomed to its vagaries, particularly regarding censorship.
”It’s limiting but you have to live
with it. In [Bump in the Road],
we came up against absolutely
no resistance whatsoever. We
knew what we were doing and
this movie was all above
reproach – except, perhaps, for
the sexual part.”
Yet despite a hefty dose of
Chinese-style raunchiness to
spice up the action, Bump in the
Road passed inspection scotfree. “We sat through the various stages of screening and not
a single bit was edited,” recalls
Kam. “[Everyone says] that
censorship is tight, but it’s not
as bad as Westerners think.”
Aimed firmly at commercial
rather than critical success, the
movie’s comic chops may
attract big audiences over
Golden Week, even if that
doesn’t translate overseas.
But Kam’s focus, as she says, is
strictly on China, with plans in
the future to use her domestic
experience to help Hollywood
crack the Middle Kingdom
market – not vice versa.
// Bump in the Road is scheduled to appear in
cinemas on Sept 29.
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
39
TV
arts
The Bridge
Not such a smooth crossover for serial killer drama
By Aelred Doyle
T
he Bridge is a story of
good decisions and bad
decisions – and that’s just
the showrunners.
Based on Danish/Swedish source
material, this was originally
to be set on the border with
Canada. Instead, they went
with El Paso in Texas and Juarez
in Mexico, a far more fertile
conjunction. They also cast
the charming Demian Bichir as
Marco Ruiz, a worldly but honest Mexican cop – both good
decisions. As his foil, the tightly
wound American detective
Sonya Cross with Asperger-like
symptoms, they cast Diane Kruger
– bad decision.
It’s a real pity, because The Bridge
looks fantastic and has a lot to
offer, being the most direct work
since Roberto Bolano’s novel
2666 to address society’s indifference towards the real-life slayings of hundreds of women over
the last decade in Juarez.
From the credits onwards,
there’s a confident sense of
place fired by beautiful cinematography. The Bridge’s main plot
– a body found on the Bridge
of the Americas – is from the
original series; then it goes off
on its own in mostly interesting
ways. Once revealed, the villain’s
identity and motivation are uninspired, yet the suspense holds.
However, casting is everything.
Kruger’s failure to convincingly
own the role holds everything
up – particularly with such fine
performers around her – and
Sonya’s unusual personality
comes over as a stunt. This is still
a show to enjoy for its texture
and energy, but in the end a
respectable failure.
dvds
HOLLYWOOD AT HOME
Making the most of beijing’s DVD bins
By Tom Lee
We’re the Millers
Elysium
Fresh from
buggering
Michael
Douglas,
Matt Damon
stars in an
action flick that
rams home a wellknown truth: it sucks to be poor.
On a ravaged future Earth, mortally
ill Max (Damon) makes a break
for Elysium, a space-station home
to the rich and privileged that has
machines to cure any ailment.
Guarding this utopia is the ruthless
Jessica Delacourt (Jodie Foster), a
woman who would happily steal
candy from a baby – she’s that evil.
Planes
If you’re a single, shadylooking
guy, you’re
going
to get
stopped at
customs. To solve
this quandary and safely smuggle a huge amount of marijuana
from Mexico to the US in an RV,
drug dealer David Clark (Jason
Sudeikis) recruits a bunch of misfits to form a fake family, including 18-year-old virgin Kenny (Will
Poulter), teenage runaway Casey
(Emma Roberts) and feisty stripper Rose (Jennifer Aniston).
Made in the same mold
as Pixar’s Cars, Disney’s
Planes takes the anthropomorphic machine action to the skies. The plot
centers on crop-duster
Dusty (voiced by Dane
Cook) and his dreams of
becoming an international racer. Sure, being afraid
of heights isn’t what
you’d call an advantage, but who doesn’t
want to root for a plucky underdog?
40
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
Editor’s
pick
Lovelace
Whether it’s the
sex jokes or
the shocking spousal
abuse,
some scenes
in this basedon-a-true-story drama are bound to make you gag.
Star of revolutionary porno Deep
Throat, Linda Lovelace (Amanda
Seyfried) lived a double life: to
the public, she was a cheerful
figure of female sexual liberation;
in private, she was the wife of a
violent husband who forced her
to have intercourse for no cash.
You decide which you prefer.
Our Children
Examining the real-life
story of a mother who slit
the throats of her five children for twisted reasons,
this Belgian-French film
attempts to explain the
motivations of this modern-day Medea, who apparently felt her relationships with her husband
and offspring were being encroached upon by a
one-time benefactor. Difficult viewing.
Blue Jasmine
Filled with
echoes of
A Streetcar
Named
Desire,
Woody
Allen’s latest
sees Cate Blanchett
take on the role of Jasmine, a
one-time New York socialite who
is forced into a working-class
existence following the arrest of
financier husband Alec Baldwin.
Seeking succor from her more
modest-living sister Ginger (Sally
Hawkins), she struggles to stay
afloat on a raft made from booze,
pills and haughty condescension.
Smash & Grab: The
Story of the Pink
Panthers
Engrossing documentary about Yugoslavian
jewel thieves who took
millions in diamonds
through a series of audacious heists. Featuring
interviews with two
members of the gang,
the planning, preparation and crimes of these
actual Ocean’s Eleven are all laid bare.
books
cover
story
WARHOL IN CHINA
when Andy came to china...
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
41
cover
arts story
42
WARHOL IN CHINA
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
ANDY WARHOL: CHINA, 1982
PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER MAKOS, WORDS BY NED KELLY
I
n late 1982, Andy Warhol and a small entourage were invited to Hong Kong by Alfred Siu,
a young industrialist who had commissioned portraits of Prince Charles and Princess Diana
for I Club, a huge new disco he was opening on the island. Upon arrival, Siu surprised
the party by informing them he had been successful in arranging a VIP trip to Beijing,
including the Forbidden City and Great Wall. Warhol was to visit the Chinese mainland for the
first and only time. We caught up with the man who captured the trip, Warhol’s close friend
and personal photographer Christopher Makos, ahead of ‘15 Minutes Eternal,’ a huge Warhol
retrospective taking place at the Central Academy of Fine Arts throughout this month.
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
43
cover story
WARHOL IN CHINA
“I like this better than our culture. It’s simpler. I love all
the blue clothes. Everyone wearing blue. I like to wear the
same thing every day. If I were a dress designer I’d design
one dress over and over.”
“
It was really a disco trip to
Hong Kong,” Christopher
Makos explains. “Alfred Siu
had commissioned Andy
for the Prince Charles and Lady
Di portraits to decorate his new
club in Hong Kong, and then
surprised us with the Beijing
trip. We all were actually surprised. And excited to see mainland China.”
Described by Warhol as the
“most modern photographer in
America,” Makos was at the time
working on Warhol’s Interview
magazine. Also on the trip were
Fred Hughes, Warhol’s flamboyant Texan manager, Hughes’
girlfriend, the English aristocrat
Natasha Grenfell and documentary maker Lee Caplin who
brought along a small film crew.
“Andy was the sort of front man
of the band,” Makos has said of
the unusual party. “We were the
backup singers.”
While Warhol was at the height
of his fame in his home country,
the 54-year-old artist was virtually unknown in the People’s
Republic of China, which had
only recently emerged from
near-total isolation from the out44
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
‘Here’s the guy
that did the
Campbell’s soup
can – he was
all about the
multiplicity of
things, and here
was a whole
lifestyle based on
that idea’
Mao.” Yes, the Mao portraits.
In 1972, the year Nixon went
to China on the heels of some
ping-pong diplomacy, Warhol
had reached outside Hollywood
and America for his next superstar: Mao Zedong. Stripping
the iconic image of its propaganda context, he rendered the
Chairman ironically fashionable
in the West with his use of wide,
colorful brushstrokes and handdrawn lines.
side world, after Deng Xiaoping
instigated the policy of Reform
and Opening Up.
A decade on from the Mao
portraits, Makos photographed
Warhol posing in front of the
original in Tiananmen Square.
“Andy actually thought the real
Mao portrait was better than
his, and really loved the original,” says Makos. “We were all
fascinated with [it].” “Gee, it’s
big,” Warhol said himself at
the time. “Yeah, I painted Mao
about 400 times. I used to see
how many I could do in a day.”
But “For some strange reason,
some Chinese did recognize
Andy, much to our surprise,”
says Makos. For the most part,
however, the very distinctive
artist only stood out in a crowd
“because he looked so unusual
– not because he was the guy
who painted those portraits of
Whether intended or not, the
works mirrored political efforts
to give China a friendly face in
the eyes of Americans. Yet, ironically, the images remain mostly
unseen in the PRC and had to
be excluded from the current
Warhol exhibition (see p.42) .
It is this notion of replication
and uniformity that makes the
concept of Warhol in China
resonate. “It was a Warholian
experience,” Makos later reflected on the trip. “Here’s the
guy that, you know, did the
Campbell’s soup can – he was all
about the multiplicity of things,
and here was a whole lifestyle
based on that idea.
“I loved the sense of isolation,
especially in a fashion sense,”
Makos says now. “It was just a
sea of these people, all in crisp
navy-blue suits. They looked
so chic. To me, the new group
that was experimenting with
Western-style dress just looked
so un-cool. Because they were
so isolated, they really had no
sense of how to dress, so it was
intuitive. Sometimes a hit, most
of the time a miss.”
It is a sentiment echoed by
Warhol, who even had a copy of
Quotations from Chairman Mao,
better known as the Little Red
Book. “I love his book,” Warhol
said. “I read it all the time. I like
the simple thoughts.
“I like this better than our culture. It’s simpler,” he continued.
“Gee, it’s big. Yeah, I painted Mao
about 400 times. I used to see
how many I could do in a day.”
“I love all the blue clothes.
Everyone wearing blue. I like to
wear the same thing every day.
If I were a dress designer I’d design one dress over and over.”
(Ironically, Warhol wore the
same outfit every day while
in China, even sleeping in his
clothes. But for hygiene rather
than aesthetic reasons – he
complained that the Peking
Hotel, where he and Makos
were staying, was full of cockroaches.)
If Warhol approved of the Mao
era, the Chinese authorities
were less positive about what
he represented. By 1982, younger artists were beginning to be
influenced by Western art but,
later that year, the government
initiated an Anti-Spiritual
Pollution Campaign, with ‘spiritual pollution’ being defined
as “things that are obscene,
barbarous or reactionary; vulgar
taste in artistic performances;
efforts to seek personal gain
and indulgence in individualism,
anarchism, and liberalism.”
Contemporary art was decreed
“bourgeois,” and several exhibitions were banned.
In fact, the only artist Warhol
met during his visit was the
traditionalist Chang Ku-Nien, a
master calligrapher and landscape painter, who professed
not to know much about
Western art, though he had
seen Warhol’s ‘Marilyn Monroe’
in a foreign magazine.
In a characteristic exchange,
Chang inscribed ‘long life’ in calligraphy and gave it to Warhol,
while Warhol drew a large dollar sign in magic marker and
wished Chang “good fortune.”
When Makos later teased
Warhol for making such a crude
gesture, and of always having
money on his mind, Warhol
retorted: “I have mind on my
money – it’s different, kid.”
While Warhol professed preference for the simplicity and
conformity of China, the absence
of the usual ubiquitous cultural
icons and lifestyle of convenience
that his works reflected left him
somewhat uneasy. “Andy asked
‘Where are the McDonalds?’
when we were in Beijing,” says
Makos, “And when we were
out at the Great Wall, he asked,
‘Where is the escalator?’”
‘He never once
believed that a
world without
McDonald's could
be sympathetic
or kind; as in a
child’s eyes, a
place without
McDonald’s could
never be good’
As artist Ai Weiwei notes in an
essay to the opening of Makos’
Andy Warhol China 1982, a photographic book chronicling the
excursion, “[Warhol] never once
believed that a world without
McDonalds could be sympathetic or kind; as in a child’s eyes, a
place without McDonalds could
never be good – no matter what
else it had.”
Changes were already underway
though, as Warhol himself predicted – on first being told there
was no McDonald’s in Beijing,
“Oh, but they will,” was his rejoinder.
Things moved on artistically, as
well as culturally, and, just as he
was known as the ‘Pope of Pop’
in America, a case could be
made for Warhol as the godfather of contemporary Chinese
art. His simple aesthetic and
replication of imagery has
influenced art in the Middle
Kingdom, fusing pop
and propaganda to create a
style known as ‘political pop.’
Some here have become so
successful they have begun art
‘factories’ of their own, just as
the master had.
Warhol’s 1982 visit almost perfectly coincided with a move
towards less-traditional forms
of art in China. It seems appropriate, therefore, that the man
who was notoriously obsessed
with the business of art should
now return, at least in spirit,
when the country has become
one of the world’s largest, most
important and, of course, most
lucrative art markets.
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
45
cover story
WARHOL IN CHINA
15 Minutes Eternal
Largest Andy Warhol exhibition in Asia arrives in ’jing
BY Tom Lee
‘Warhol
would
have been
delighted
with the
embargo
on the
Mao
images’
T
he largest collection of
AndyWarhol pieces Asia
has everseen is coming
to the Chinese mainland this
month, featuring over 400 paintings, photographs, screen prints,
drawings and sculptures by the
pop-art icon.
worldfamous for 15 minutes.”
Arranged chronologically, works
include ‘Campbell’s Soup,’
‘Marilyn Monroe’ and ‘Brillo
Boxes.’ Notably absent,
though, will be the series of
Maoportraits the artist made in
1973.
An enormous treasure trove, the
Beijing show will boast substantially more works than were
displayed in both Singapore
and Hong Kong, where the 15
Minutes Eternal exhibition
toured last year. Running
until July 28, it is being held at
the Central Academy of Fine
Arts, the capital’s leading cu
tural institution that was opened
last year to great fanfare.
Speaking about the omission,
Eric Shiner, director of the Andy
Warhol Museum in Pittsburgh,
Pennsylvania, said in a statement in March that “although
we had hoped to include our
Mao paintings in the exhibition
to show Warhol’s keen interest
in Chinese culture, we
understand that certain imagery
is still not able to be shown in
China and we respect our host
institutions’ decisions.”
15 Minutes Eternal draws its title
from Warhol’s famous quote: “In
the future, everyone will be
46
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
It has been suggested by some
Chinese media that the authori-
ties did not take kindly to the
appearance of Mao Zedong
seemingly wearing makeup.
Arguably, though, Warhol would
have been delighted with the
embargo on the images, which
has only served to heighten
media buzz and excitement
around the exhibition.
Poohpoohing the role of artist
as starving creative, Warhol was
of the opinion that becoming
famous and generating cash
was essential, writing in The
Philosophy of Andy Warhol that
“Making money is art, and working is art and good business is
the best art.”
Revolutionizing the role of the
artist, Warhol widely mass produced his works, never feeling
the need to hand-craft individual pieces – an idea that has
become commonplace among
today’s creatives.
“Warhol is one of a number
of artists who have presented
us with a new idea of the role
of the artist which, while radical
in the 1960s, has become a
standard way of working for
many contemporary artists,” says
Chambers. “Numerous works
in the exhibition were created
solely by Warhol and visitors
may be surprised to discover
his ability as a draughtsman, for
example.
“There are also works that were
produced with the input of
friends, colleagues and other
professionals. In these cases we
can perhaps think of Warhol in
the mode of ‘producer.’”
By insinuating himself across
fashion, music, television, film
and publishing, he simultaneously developed his reputation
across diverse strata of society,
reaching audiences through
dogged self-promotion and
proving himself the ultimate
player of the fame game.
“I think that one of Warhol’s
many masterstrokes was the
‘feedback loop’ he managed to
construct between his artwork
and popular culture at large,”
says Chambers. “That it continues to function 25 years after his
death is an extraordinary testament to his legacy.”
// 15 Minutes Eternal is showing from
september 29 to november 15 at
the art Museum of the Central academy of Fine arts, 8 huajiadi nanjie,
Chaoyang District中央美术学院美术
馆, 花家地南街8号 (10 6477 1067;
www.cafa.edu.cn)
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
47
eat / drink
the grapevine
Nibbles
September was a month of
lavish anniversaries. From
Maison Boulud’s 5th birthday
to Suzy Wong’s 11th and
Hatsune’s 12th, there was a
free party every weekend and
if you didn’t get invited to
even one, you’re probably a
Reddit/china user. (For the record, Parkview Green’s multimillion yuan one-year Cirque
de Soleil bash was arguably
the biggest.)
Lest we forget, though, amid
this celebration of all that’s
well established, new places
are constantly appearing. In
TaiKoo Li North, Shanghai
Italian stallion Isola impressed
with a series of soft-opening
dinners, right next to sexy ‘ultra lounge’ Cicada, which our
new Whisky Editor, Anthony
Tao, describes as having “the
best cocktails I’ve ever tasted.”
Shakers,a new fried-chicken
joint, is due to open down in
Qianmen this month, and we
learn, via Beijing Boyce, that
The Bar’s Jack Zhou is part of
a fresh team taking over the
old Schiller’s place.
That’s in keeping with a
sense that as the F&B scene
rapidly matures, little corners
of Sanlitun are growing up.
In particular, the Great Leap/
Jing A area (decent nickname
needed), and that little spot
by Nearby the Tree, with an
ever-increasing number of
street stands. More permanent (probably) is Mosaic, a
Syrian bar-restaurant opening
beside Two Guys and a Pie.
Finally, riding that burgeoning
Shanghainese lounge vibe,
comes Ink, about which we
know little other than it’s in
the 1949 area. RFH
48
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
Six of the best: Autumn eats
Sweet and Sour
Mandarin Fish
Pan-Fried Scallop
with peppers
//RMB200. 3F Traders Upper East Hotel, 2
Beisihuan Dong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东四环
北路2号上东盛贸饭店3楼 (5907 8406)
Beat the drop in temperature by
rounding off your dining experience at Yu with their world-class
tea selection. // RMB198. 83A Jianguo
Yunnan eatery In & Out clearly
knows the importance of fruit in
the diet when it’s cold out, so try
this papaya-infused braised fish.
Lu, China Central Place, Chaoyang 朝阳区华贸
中心建国路甲83号 (5908 8888)
// RMB155. 1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 三
里屯北小街1号 (8454 0086)
Chef Han from Wu Li Xiang at
Traders recommends this soft but
crispy-shelled fish for fall.
‘Cappuccino’
Mushroom Soup
This tall and frothy one at
Flamme comes with a side of
garlic croutons – not your average cappuccino, then. // RMB30.
269, Indigo Mall, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang
酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商场269号 (8420
0270)
Hairy Crab Roe
xiao long bao
Dali-Style Fish
With Papaya
Pumpkin soup
with poached egg
Din Tai Fung’s dumpings need
no introduction – perfect for inseason Shanghai hairy crab.
Wouldn’t be fall without
pumpkin, would it? Try Agua’s
Pumpkin Soup with Poached Egg
and Balsamic Reduction. // RMB88.
// RMB45. B2/F, LG2-20 Parkview Green, 9
Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 东大桥路9号侨福
芳草地大厦地下二层LG2-20 (8562 6583)
4/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang
三里屯北路81号那里花园4层 (5208
6188)
Head to head
Chicken doner vs Doner kebab roll
The challenge: Drunken doner
The deal: Idiosyncratic bread – they use a pitta-style
toasted pocket, rather than a naan – complements handrolled chicken breast spinning slowly on a stick. Fresh
salad, but so-so sauces.
Kitchen confidential: The quality of the meat is not in
question. The boss is Turkish, so knows his stuff.
Pair with: Challenge yourself to a pint of Hoegaarden in
a huge, easily droppable glass (RMB35 at Happy Hour).
Price: RMB36
Get it: Kebab Express, Sanlitun Bar Street (opposite 3.3, in
front of Mash), 三里屯侯街 (近3.3服装大厦)
The deal: Classic shawarma-style wrap. No fuss, no muss.
Comes with a sh*t ton of sauces, wrapped in paper to keep
it together for the necessary three minutes needed to eat.
Kitchen confidential: There’s been a Republic in Beijing
(of sorts) for years, dominating the kebab market. But the
arrival of Express – practically opposite – hasn’t changed a
thing. This kebab looks, tastes and acts the same as ever.
Pair with: A Tsingtao stroller (RMB3) from a street vendor.
Price: Was RMB29 in the old days. Now shot up to RMB34
Get it: Kebab Republic, Bldg 30, 3.3, Sanlitun Beilu (三里屯
北路30号楼)
Our verdict: Kebab Express offers peace of mind with the meat, but shuts at a far-too-sensible 2am.
Meanwhile, Kebab Republic grimly powers on until the last man’s gone home – usually ’bab in hand.
Edited by will philipps
[email protected]
F&B scandal
bigger is better
Fake restaurant rubs SALT in wounds Mooncake madness
SALT, a popular Western-style restaurant in the Lido area, is at the center
of a payment dispute, resulting in a
“fake” branch being re-opened without the knowledge of the original
owners, the latter say.
SALT had been operating for six
years until their landlord’s “sudden
and unjustified” hike in the rent forced them to seek new quarters, according to an online statement made by the management team in September.
In that same statement, SALT’s owner Gaby Alves alleged that a former
employee, Lucy Wang, had reopened the restaurant under the SALT
name, without her permission, at the exact same premises.
We visited the restaurant, now, in fact, called Salt Spring, which – despite
the nominal change – was almost identical to the original. Indeed, the
original SALT’s dining awards still adorned the walls, and, with the exception of the head chef, all the old staff had been retained.
Wang told us she was suing Alves and produced a raft of legal documents
she claimed would prove that the SALT team owed her hundreds of thousands from loans – on which Wang had acted as guarantor – as well as
rent and insurance payments. Wang explained she was now running Salt
Spring in order to recoup that debt. She flatly denied that the landlord
had made any unreasonable demands for payments and that he had no
choice but to evict Alves and her team.
Jennifer Eden, SALT’s marketing manager, refuted this over the phone,
stating that rent had been paid and that the landlord had baselessly
doubled rents and demanded other payments, which Alves and her team
couldn’t meet, forcing them out of the Lido premises.
Eden further claimed that SALT intended to take Wang to court and that
her team had received threatening calls and late-night visits to their
households. With claims ricocheting back and forth, there appears to
be no clear-cut answer as to what really happened – nor are we likely to
know for a very long time (if ever). But hey, that’s Beijing.
Re-gift this, sucker: a 15-centimeter
thick, three-meter wide mooncake
weighing 1,200 jin (600 kg, or
1,323 lbs) was unveiled at Eurasia
Supermarket in Changchun, Jilin
province, last month, according to
the Chinglish website China Navis
(the pictures are via Weibo).
That’s a lot of mooncake to not eat. The main ingredients are flour — lots
and lots of flour — sugar, nuts and, of course, red bean paste. The top of
the cake depicts the story of Chang’e, the legend that inspired the MidAutumn Festival, which is what mooncakes are all about.
Never a city to be outdone, some Hefei-based real-estate company, spotting an opportunity for some ridiculous free publicity, baked a half-ton
cake in response. Slightly pointless but at least it didn’t arrive inside a
ridiculously lavish, two-ton gift box.
No Reservations
Crapital Eats: Unlimited Japanese
“With bedsheets for screens and
bizarre threads hanging from
the ceilings connected to purple
lights, customers will have no idea
what kind of place they’re actually
in. A salon? A massage parlor?
During the extensive wait I had
for the food, I had quite a lot of
time to read the menu’s thoughtprovoking words...” – translated
from Weibo’s ‘Beijing’s Dumbass
Restaurant Reviews’
@北京傻逼餐馆预警及点评 // 6 Jiang
Tai Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台路6
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
49
eat / drink
NEW restaurantS
Bantu
the sardinian secret to a long life
BY Will Philipps
the beautifully creamy sauce,
smothering rice made with just
enough bite, meant the overload was worthwhile.
Photo by Noemi Cassanelli
Other options we tried included
a potato-and-mint raviolini
(think stuffed penne; around
RMB80) and ravioli with asparagus and roast quail (RMB89)
that reminded us of mamma’s
cooking: al dente, with the minimum saucing needed to taste.
I
talians are fussy about any
cuisine other than their own
– like the Chinese, in fact.
A successful Thai restaurant in
downtown Milan? It just sounds
wrong. But you might expect a
well-travelled Italian restaurateur with a decade’s experience
in China to be a little different.
‘The key to good
Italian is making
it look simple. Oh,
and olive oil’
“I never eat Chinese food!”
Bantu’s Roberto Masili states
perfunctorily, the thinly veiled
disdain saved by some expressive Italian charm. High-end
Bantu is his latest venture, after
considerable success with L’Isola
and LMPlus. This time, he’s
enlisted his brother in the kitchen to make (unsurprisingly) classic Italian fare, with just a hint of
their native Sardinia.
ments more justified (he’s just a
health freak!). Bantu’s cuisine is
especially welcome in a city that
relishes taking years off our lives
(5.5, according to an MIT study).
That Mediterranean island is a
hotspot for celebrities holidaymaking on 90-foot yachts, and
was disgraced ex-leader Silvio
Berlusconi’s preferred location
for “bunga bunga” parties.
But Sardinia also has the enviable reputation of having the
longest-living population on
the planet. It’s down to the
cuisine, of course (all that olive
oil), making Masili’s earlier com50
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
The restaurant is in the China
View building – somewhat of
a dining graveyard, having put
paid to Budapest, North 66 and
Da Giueseppe previously. So
has Bantu brought some of that
Sardinian longevity with it?
The key to good Italian is
making it look simple, without
tasting like something you could
knock up at home. Oh and
generous lashings of olive oil
and balsamic – in which to dip a
thin but doughy dome of pizza
bread, oven-hot and ready to
steamily deflate – is a good way
to start. You’ll want to take this
bread home and use to mop up
any sauces still hanging out in
your
fridge.
On Bantu’s
deep-fried
baby squid appetizer (RMB89),
the batter was light enough
to avoid longevity-threatening
cholesterol but with a flavor
devoid of real depth. Luckily, the
squid had a succulence as rare
as fish in the desert; evidence
of Masili’s experience at getting
hold of quality produce. A bottle of Costamolino Vermentino
helped keep us happy (RMB398
a bottle; decent half-decanters
available from RMB98). There’s
no doubt a glass a day keeps the
Sardinian undertaker at bay.
Simplicity is evident too in the
cold cuts, reasonably priced
(RMB88/158/198), given the
sheer amounts of prosciutto
crudo, salami, capocollo and
speck. The Buffalo Mozzarela
Salad (RMB138) was similarly
unimpeachable, served (unusually) with aubergine, olives and
two types of fleshy buffalo.
Risottos are rich, and the mains’
version with gorgonzola and
Parma ham chips was definitely
on the indulgent side – but
Fearing potential bowel cancer
from indulging in any more red
meat, we went to sea for the
mains (remembering, of course,
that the island of Sardinia is presumably home to some people
who really know how to serve
up a tasty crustacean or cod).
The tiger prawns, served
on a chickpea mash with
fresh tomato gazpacho
(available separately
and made with fresh
crab and coriander;
RMB69), were no
slouch, the tangy soup
slicing nicely through the
vegetable mash.
And after hearing the description, we couldn’t resist the
spinach pesto risotto (RMB98),
made with fresh basil leaves,
instead of paste. Unfortunately,
though, there’s absolutely no
flavor. No basil; no pine nuts;
nothing. But the texture wasn’t
heavy, and even Masili’s less-successful experiments will not suffer from lack of professionalism
(we even took the rest home for
late-night snacking with leftover
pizza bread).
Bantu looks like it’s going to be
pricey and possibly a little arch
– the décor is smart for China
View, with crisp linen tablecloths and a big-city feel – but
the fairly priced menu, relaxed
atmosphere and helpful staff
lead us to believe that Bantu is
uniquely placed to reverse the
fortunes of this notoriously
difficult spot.
// Daily 11:30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 2/F, China
View, Meilin Building (opposite Workers'
Stadium East Gate), Chaoyang 朝阳区工体
东路己2号工体东门对面美林大厦 2层
202 (从电梯上2层)意大利餐厅 (8587
1299)
Firewings
The sports bar takes flight
Photo by Noemi Cassanelli
BY Liu Kai
B
eijing’s sports bars – you want to love them, but they usually
have some problem that spoils it. Whether it’s warm beer or
mao dou in a little tea glass, there’s always something wrong
with the place. Firewings has it on the money, though – almost.
Once you get over the fact that you’re in a very Chinese district, imagine 12 types of wing, with varieties lifted from popular ’Murican
bar-n-grill chain Buffalo Wild Wings. It’s not quite the 20 they have in
the southwest United States (it used to be 24) but at least – with recipes like Caribbean Jerk and Thai Curry – Firewings goes way further
than spicy, extra-crispy and the decidedly non-Nawlin’s style that KFC
pushes out by the bucket.
Of the dirty dozen, we’d highly recommend the Hot Fire (similar to
Buffalo’s Blazin’, though more a crackle than an actual pop of heat)
and the Spicy Garlic – both terms apparently trademarked by Buffalo,
along with ‘Hot’ and, er, ‘Medium.’ Wings come on the cheap at just
RMB32.9 for eight (the pricing is US-style), and wing-lovers get a beer
for only RMB10 with every order.
Advertising Hotline
010 - 84477073
Firewings also does BBQ, hot dogs and burgers, but we stuck with
wings and the non-American burrito. Here, they’ve snuck into
Chipotle’s territory – you can pick your burrito’s innards yourself –
but the tortilla are undersized compared to their US counterparts.
Still, at RMB14.5-19.5, depending on what kind of meat you’d like
(there are five to choose from), you’re not really expecting a mucho
macho burrito.
The trouble starts with the beer: they have the taps; they just haven’t
gotten around to filling them yet. A pint of Tsingtao is fair at RMB9.9,
and bottles of Heineken and Guinness are RMB19 and RMB20 respectively. Yet a partnership with one of Beijing’s 400-plus new microbreweries seems inevitable.
As for sports, it’s every (indoor) sportsman’s dream. Eight TVs, all
showing Major League Baseball, NBA, NFL highlights and – hell,
yeah! – wrestling. It suits the sports lovers’ decor, with mitts and
gloves lying around and even a (slightly unbalanced) foosball table.
The major flaw is location. I don’t know many people who’d travel
so far to catch a game, especially with Firewings’ stringent working hours. If showing live American games is your main USP, maybe
consider staying open past midnight (what’re you, Cinderella?). Still,
Firewings manages to be a warm breeze in a cold part of town.
// Daily 11-12am. 309-04 Yanhai Sailuo Cheng , You'an Side Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区百子
湾东里沿海赛洛城有案斜街二条309-04号 (400 600 5942, Delivery; 186 1024 7069,
Restaurant)
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
51
eat / drink
New restaurants
Din Tai Fung
little bundles of meat-and-gravy-filled joy
BY Will Philipps
or fish, stewing in an embryonic
fluid of piping hot and intensely
flavored juice.
The DTF experience is not one to
be missed in Beijing. It’s simply
that good. Exemplary reputation
in the capital, elsewhere in China
and – as its menu proudly proclaims –voted one of the top ten
gourmet restaurants in the world
by The New York Times.
S
tarting life as Shanghaistyle dim sum in exile,
Taiwan’s Din Tai Fung
(DTF) has not only made a successful trip back over to the
mainland, but is now represented in most corners of the globe.
Success is owed, of course, to
those oh-so-tasty xiao long bao
– steamed dumplings with meat
A ringing endorsement, then,
but one from way back in ’93 –
so it’s been echoing for some
time. The opening of the latest branch, in the ostentatious
Parkview Green shopping emporium-cum-gallery, allows for
the perfect excuse to see if the
dumplings are still up to scratch.
Yes, is very much the answer –
and the brilliance isn’t limited
to dishes served in a bamboo
basket. We got the gastronomic
juices flowing with some crisp
greenery – Sautéed Bean-Shoots,
(RMB58) – and the subtle sweetness of the Spring Bamboo
Shoots (RMB45).
But the dumplings are the centerpiece, so try the Shao Mai
(pictured, RMB58) or in-season
Shanghai Hairy Crab Roe and
Pork RMB45) which is sourced,
we’re assured, only from rock
pools meeting the highest of
standards. That’s in line with the
DTF philosophy of microscopic
attention to detail at every step –
and given their roaring success,
who are we to argue?
// Daily 10am-10pm, B2/F, LG2-20 Parkview
Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu 东大桥路9号侨
福芳草地大厦地下二层LG2-20 (8562
6583)
Tube Station Pizza
Mind the gap... ’muricans coming through
BY Will Philipps
Americans on every barstool.
It is in the latter category that
Tube Station – slogan: “Beijing’s
biggest pizza” – proudly sits.
Sod the anchovies; you want
to stuff your face with cheesy,
doughy goodness and, dammit,
so what if you like six different
kinds of meat on your pizza and
BBQ sauce instead of tomato?
A
bout slice three (of
eight) into my Garbage
Pail Pizza (almost every
topping on offer, 24”, RMB220) I
realized that pizza restaurants can
be divided into two categories,
generally speaking.
First, the Italian-style pizzeria: a
sparse application of toppings
52
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
on a thin Neapolitan crust, characteristic of a less-is-more type
philosophy. Order pineapple as a
topping and you’ll likely find spit
in there as well.
Then there’s the deep-crust,
topping-laden, cholesteroloozing joint – hot wings on the
menu, brewskis on the table,
Longer-term expats may associate Tube Station with Kro’s Nest
and the well-publicized arguments over contracts between
the owners (similar to the SALT
controversy, see p.49). Newer
ones probably won’t care – it’s
all about the pizza, man. As with
Kro, there’s no pretense, no attitude and certainly no chance
of leaving hungry. Order pineapple on your pizza and you might
have to spend several minutes
fishing around in an ocean of
cheese just to find it.
The choice of toppings is
exhaustive too. Try the Tube
Station Special (ie: everything),
which we decided would be
best enjoyed in 24-inch colossus
size (RMB165). It could probably
feed a small village, twice over.
With enough left for their livestock, probably.
Returning home, ready to succumb to a cheese-induced coma,
I logged onto Tube Station’s
website, where they boldly claim
they’re “the real sh*t in Beijing”
– lucky, then, that they didn’t
see my bathroom the following
morning.
If it’s possible to have a pizza
hangover, I had one. And like a
real hangover, no matter how
often you promise you won’t,
you’ll be back out stuffing yourself there same time next week.
// Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat-Sun 10am11pm (Delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am10:30pm, Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm) 3/F, 3.3,
33 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯
路33号3.3服装大厦3层 (5136 5571)
El gran bocado
This one’s a spicy meatball
Photo by Noemi Cassanelli
BY stephen george
É
migré judgment on new eateries in Beijing often centers on
one criteria: authenticity. Never more so than with the everincreasing number of Mexican joints, with conversation often
reverting to an overly-opinionated drone on whether your fajita is
genuine Mexican or just a Tex-Mex gringo. Enough of the tedious
authenticity debate – it’s either good food, or it’s not.
Take Wudaoying’s Sand Pebbles, where the meals may not be
prepared by a chef born under the Yucatan Peninsula, but a lack of
pretension, coupled with high-quality, reasonably priced Tex-Mex
fare has built up a loyal following. Sand Pebbles’ deserved success
has allowed owner and chef Ray Li to expand his business with a second offering on Xingfucun Street, or what some (OK, me) are calling
“Craft Beer Street,” due to the sudden influx of upmarket bars selling
upmarket beer.
The new west Sanlitun spot El Gran Bocado (“the big bite”) is
markedly bigger and more ambitious than Sand Pebbles, with owner
Li looking to up his game with a menu offering Tex-Mex classics
paired with some more traditional Mexican bites. Brightly decorated
floors and a large, comfortable outdoor seating area mean there’s
more of a communal vibe than its Yonghegong counterpart.
The food is firmly on-point, offering a well-balanced mix of favorites,
such as the grilled jumbo-shrimp fajitas (RMB128), excellent quesadillas (RMB48) and what, for our money, is the city’s best nacho plate:
the beans nachos (RMB40/52). Moving away from the Tex-Mex, Li
has added some lighter, less oily Mexican choices, including the beef
tongue tacos (RMB45) and the Caldo-des-Res (beef soup; RMB40). A
quite superb blend of warming spices and hearty flavors, this traditional Mexican-style broth is made using tender chunks of choice
cuts and vegetables, then slow cooked for up to seven hours – a
meal in itself, and perfect for the coming winter.
Another bonus is the addition of Slow Boat on tap – completing the
area’s craft beer trinity (alongside nearby Jing A and Great Leap – you
can now crawl between all three) and further raising the possibility
of our nickname catching on. Try their agave-infused brew (RMB40),
a perfect accompaniment to first-rate enchiladas verde (RMB65).
It’s likely to take a while for El Gran Bocado to truly find its footing in
its new location and garner a similar following to its well-established
sister restaurant. But based on our visit, we’re expecting great things
from this modest taqueria – the worm has truly turned.
Advertising Hotline
010 - 84477073
// Daily 11am-12am. 1/F Just Make Building, Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中
路杰作大厦1层 (No tel.)
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
53
eat / drink
New restaurants
Mash
It’s a club; A Restaurant; A Bar! Any good, though?
By RFH
Photo by Noemi Cassanelli
in booths, refusing to mingle.
But the impenetrable darkness of
Big Crappy Live, as I think it was
called, has, at least, given way to
a much lighter space. It’s quite
cavernous – if you hate crowds,
though, that’s a draw.
The roof is currently where the
main action’s at. Décor wise,
woody and verdant: like the 1F
terrace, only on a 400sqm roof,
with better food. And a pool table. On a roof.
he area opposite Tongli
Studios – grave of the
unlamented Poacher’s
Club – has become almost exclusively a local patch: Youth Club,
Fish Nation, Die Pub (we think
the ‘Die’ is German) and Big
Live, all giving off the ‘lady bar’
vibe of nearby tourist street.
here, and the memory still exerts
a grim pull on former patrons.
Anyway, that space is now
occupied by Mash, a combination
kinda place – “Restaurant | Bar
| Club,” the menu says – that’s
replaced the forgettable Big Live
and brought in DSC Consulting,
who made Lugas and Taps work.
The food’s fine. Like 1F, it’s gastropub – witness the Beef Patty Melt
(RMB58) – but it doesn’t want to
charge those kinds of prices. So
it’s kebabs – cheap and tasty (see
p.48), though it’d be nice to have
’em less well-cooked; they also
serve from Kebab Express – burgers, fish and chips, steaks, pastas,
dips, curry... stuff like that.
Perhaps this is because a particularly seedy Jinkelong once stood
Downstairs still feels a little lifeless, with groups hunkering down
You might not like the odd dish,
but then remind yourself, you are
T
on Houjie, the scuzziest street in
Sanlitun. This is the best it gets.
And you’re here for the drinks,
right?
These are mostly around RMB30
rising to RMB50 for a cocktail.
Mash Hour (5-10pm) aims to get
you happily mashed every night
with two-for-one and discounts on
those massive 500ml Hoegaardens
(RMB45 down to 35), for example. It’s not really a cocktail
place, though. If not well made, a
cocktail should at least be strong
as hell, and that doesn’t mean
watery. Still, none of our booze
tasted fake.
Mash has got its work cut out
– mostly living down previous
incumbent, Big Sh*tty Live. Lucky
they didn’t open in winter; no
one likes cold mash.
// Daily, 5pm-3am. Sanlitun Houjie, opposite
the 3.3 building, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯侯
街(近3.3服装大厦) (185 1117 8108)
Modo Urban Deli
we’d say it was deli-cious, if it didn’t sound so lame
By Meredith Yang
sweating oil like so much juicy
goodness; charcuterie plates
(RMB238 for all of the above); as
well as pastas and burgers. The
latter are fine but they’re not
why people are visiting.
M
odo was doing swell
as a wine bar until
someone decided
its mezzanine was illegal and
they needed to get rid out of it.
Immediately. Or pay a very large
fine. They chose the former,
which probably surprised whoever cooked up the fine.
Making a virtue out of necessity,
54
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
then, is Modo Urban Deli, which
has had a rethink and opened
back again as, essentially, a posh
place to pick up a picnic or sit
with a glass of wine.
They offer a variety of stuff to
nibble on – such as countrystyle terrine (RMB55; fine, bit
bland, in need of more seasoning); Iberico ham (RMB95/185),
That prize goes to the sandwiches. Folks are loving the Cuban,
a RMB68 baguette which mixes
roast pork with ham, melted
Gouda, pickles, mustard and
salad. My first had a bit of crispy
crackling in it, and I’ve never had
a sarnie taste so good before
(nor since. Maybe it’s like heroin;
you’re always vainly seeking
that initial hit). The Scandinavian
(RMB65) is another cool customer. Adding constant excitement to my life, I quite like to
mix things up with the half-salad,
half-sandwich combo (RMB68).
For mains, accept no substitute:
Traitor Zhou’s Andouille and
chorizo plate (RMB108) comes
with a fried egg and mash. Just
stop reading and try it.
You can grumble at the prices,
but consider a) location and b)
competition. Element Fresh
have been offering salads at
nearly fifteen dollars next door
for years. In that context, Modo
strives to maintain value.
The famous wine selection is
still there, with 30 percent discount on takeout/delivery. And
Modo have a catering service
whereby they turn up with a
buffet table, and come back
later to pick up all the mess. The
new Modo looks like something
they should have done even if
they hadn’t been forced to: not
bad at all.
// Sun-Thu, 12pm-10pm; Fri-Sat, 12pm10:30pm. S10-31, 19 Sanlitun Bei
Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号院 三
里屯village10号楼三层S10–31 (6415
7207; for catering, email [email protected];
www.modobj.com/en/modo).
MARKEting solutions
Our monthly pick of the city’s specialist produce
Liubiju Pickle Market
Photo by Noemi Cassanelli
By Meredith Yang
L
iubiju market is not a place
for browsing. Idle too long and someone
will shoot you a menacing glare from across the aisle as if to
say: “What a disgrace. How do you not know your pickles?”
The Liubiju Pickle Market is a pickler’s heaven. Originally constructed
during the Ming dynasty in 1530, Liubiju is home to 483 years of pickling history. We look on in awe as buyers waltz in with empty jars, fill
‘em up with store famous jianggua 酱瓜 (RMB 28/jin) and flit back out
in customary fashion. After some four centuries of practice, the market
is quite the well-oiled machine.
Business is booming too it seems, with reports of pickled jiangcai 酱
菜 reaching 5,000 tons annually. In the single hour we spent there, the
traders hardly stopped — the jars kept coming, the pickles kept going.
Needless to say, they took no pleasure in our poking and sniffing. The
quality needn’t be questioned: designated as imperial staples, these
pickles have graced the tables of royal emperors and high-ranking
state officials alike.
Essentially cucumbers soaked in a fermented soy-based sauce, jianggua 酱瓜, make great salty companions to a morning meal of porridge or a chilled bowl of Beijing zhajiangmian. Liubiju is famous for
its Beijing-style pickling, which is traditionally saltier and less sweet
than southern pickles. Anything that can be pickled can be found
here: white turnip, cucumber, lettuce, carrot and cabbage. Another
famous pickle concoction
special to Liubiju is Beijing’s
Items p
urchase
“eight treasures pickle” (Beijing
d:
Babaocai 北京酱八宝菜), a
Four jars
for RMB
sweet, salty soy-sauced mix of
10 (salte
white tu
d
rnip 辣菜
cucumber, red bean, peanuts,
,
s
a
lted
c
ucumber
almonds, and ginger, to name
黄瓜, sa
lted lettu
香菜心,
a few.
ce
sw
eet and s
our
cucumb
er 甜酸瓜
)
A jar of
mustard
芥末酱 R
Sesame
MB 8
paste 芝麻
酱 RMB
Meat and
9
onion sa
uce 干酱
zhajiangm
(for
ian) RMB
4
A salty p
//Liubiju Pickle Market, Daily
ickle mix
of peanu
8.30am-7pm. Qianmen, 3 Niangshi and cucum
ts
ber Jiang
sanren 酱
Jie, Chongwen 六必局酱园崇文区 人 RM
B 35/jin
三
前门粮食店街3号
You can’t say you’ve eaten
Chinese food until you’ve
tried its pickles. Go on, impress your mother-in-law
with pickles galore; you
won’t regret it.
Buddying up: Phallic Geoduck and a
turbot awkwardly share a tank
GET
YOUR
GAME
ON
Get Active. Get Social. Get Organized
www.mashupsports.com
Advertising Hotline
010 - 84477073
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
55
eat / drink
SPECIAL FEATURE
A Bavarian in Beijing
brew master Andreas Roehrl talks german beer
By Stephen George
W
hen the Roehrl family
brewery closed due
to dwindling profits
in the early 1990s, it looked to
be the end of Andreas Roehrl’s
brewing career. “Never did I
think that it might one day result in me coming to Beijing,” he
says of the closure. “I suppose
it’s a case of Germany’s loss,
China’s gain.”
Roehrl then, is a man who can
handle his beer. “Almost everyday I try all my beers – it’s part of
my job to check the quality,” he
says. “The trouble is, I can’t stop
after a few small beers. So, I have
a rule, if I drink, I drink. But like
everything, you have to maintain
a balance. I try not to get drunk
any more than twice a week. I go
swimming at least three times a
week; I eat lots of vegetables and
fruits; and I ride my bike to work
each day.”
46-year-old Roehrl, who’s family have been brewing Bavarian
style wheat beer according to
Germany’s strict purification
rules for over 300 years, now
holds the position of brew master at Beijing’s largest microbrewery, Drei Kronen 1308. The threefloor German themed brauhaus,
popular with locals and the city’s
foreign nationals alike, serves up
three different types of authentic
German beer produced in accordance with the Roehrl family’s
centuries old brewing technique.
“Our main investor is a Chinese
entrepreneur. He saw a Bavarianstyle beer house in Asia and it
was packed, and he thought, you
know what, I could make money
out of this – and well, one thing
led to another, and here I am,”
explains Roehrl of his move to
China four years ago. “All the
equipment and know-how is imported from Germany, the only
real difference is the nationality
of the people drinking the beer.”
Chinese drinkers haven’t yet developed quite the same taste for
German beer as Roehrl’s countrymen, but the market is growing,
steadily. This year saw tickets for
Drei Kronen’s annual week long
Oktoberfest celebration sell out
for the first time in four years.
“Previous Oktoberfests were a
disaster,” explains Roehrl. “The
first year, nobody bought tickets,
so the management cancelled
the German band and replaced
them with a Filipino pop act –
can you imagine? It was totally
surreal.”
Times though, are changing.
“Wealthy young Chinese are
becoming interested in German
beer and the culture,” says
Roehrl. “It’s also more expensive,
and so to a lot of Chinese – that
means it’s better. We get a lot of
56
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
Brew master Andreas Roehrl raises a glass of the good stuff
‘I give guided tours, answer people’s
questions, wear leather pants – I’m like
a beer ambassador’
people bringing their colleagues
here. It’s a prestige thing.”
According to Roehrl, China currently produces around 400 million hectoliters of beer per year.
Whereas Germany – a country
less than a tenth the size of
China, produces around 100
million. “Most of the stuff being
produced out here [in China] is
industrial light beer, though the
market for craft beer is growing.
In Beijing alone, there are several really great microbreweries,” he says. “I definitely see my
future in China. The DK brand
has a lot of interesting projects
planned over the next five to ten
years, such as a bottling facility
and a distillery.”
Germany has traditionally played
an important role in the development of Chinese beer culture.
Tsingtao, arguably China’s most
renowned brand of beer was first
established by German settlers
in 1903. “I do occasionally feel
like I’m representing Bavaria. I
give guided tours of the brewing
facilities, answer people’s questions, I wear leather pants – I’m
like a beer ambassador,” says a
beaming Roehrl.
It’s the type of enviable job that
most office bound desk workers
can only dream of. As brew master, Roehrl is required to sample
each and every newly brewed
batch of beer. “I get paid to get
drunk!” he laughs.
Since swapping Bavaria for
Beijing, Roehrl has found himself in the strange position of
watching the German beer
industry shrink at home while
grow overseas. “The last 20
years have seen so many small
breweries go to the wall (in
Bavaria). The domestic German
beer market is decreasing annually and the bigger mega-breweries are squeezing the small
breweries,” he says of the situation in his native country. “In
the US the number one brand,
Budweiser, has lost as much as
20 percent of its market share to
craft breweries, but it’s the opposite in Germany –we’re still so
far behind.”
One thing German beer does
have though, is good marketing. “Take Oktoberfest in
Munich,” says Roehrl. “It's really
just for tourists. If you want
to enjoy a really good, really
authentic beer festival, go to
Straubing in August. You see,
the thing that most people outside of Germany don't realize,
is that Oktoberfest is just one
of hundreds of beer festivals
throughout Bavaria. Even in my
home village, we have a beer
festival with as many as 5,000
people.”
Of course, such strong traditions
can prove difficult to shake off.
“Sometimes I watch [Chinese]
customers buy a big liter-glass
of strong dark larger, down it
quickly, and then throw up everywhere… and all I can think is,
stop wasting good beer!”
Drei Kronen 1308, // Daily 11am-2am. 1/F,
Bldg 5, China View, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang
朝阳区工体东路中国红街5号楼1层
(6503 5555)
NEW BARS
Touch BEIJING
Hands Off – this bar’s more
cock than tail
Photo by Noemi Cassanelli
BY Stephen George
C
an’t touch this… No really. You can’t. Well, not unless you come
with five other friends, because you see those seats are reserved
for groups of six or more, sir. Sorry. How about you sit here instead – in one of these smaller, less comfortable-looking seats – nearer
to the fake fireplace? But it’s empty? I’m literally the only person in the
entire bar. Sorry, sir. Company policy.
Sitting alone, at 9pm in an empty bar on a Saturday night is usually
a sure sign that something, somewhere has gone badly wrong – for
both the patron and bar. As I wait for the same member of staff who
earlier prevented me from sitting on the leather sofa to arrive back
with a menu, I contemplate this. I’m alone because I’m waiting for a
friend in traffic. What excuse does Touch Beijing have?
Eventually the waiter appears with a menu. The cheapest drink listed
is RMB80. I order a Hemingway Daiquiri and watch as the waiter disappears behind a red curtain into a back room.
It will be several minutes before he reappears and a further ten before
someone else arrives back with my drink. I am still the only person here
(not counting the solitary bouncer guarding the motionless door).
The lack of patrons bring the bar’s bored-looking wait staff into sharp
focus. Most of the them – including the barmen – wear red shirts,
replete with 1920s-style braces and sleeve garters, but a few (presumably the security detail) are given the honor of wearing white. The
distinction is an important one: the white shirts strut around
throwing air punches. The red shirts take selfies and preen each others’ hair. Remember, this is a bar that charges 80 kuai per drink and
has reserved seating for ghost customers.
The overall aesthetic is a mix of faux-Manhattan glamour and Chinese
chutzpah, that feels neither new nor comfortable. Nevertheless, with
over 640sqm of floor space, it does rank as one of the city’s larger venues – a fact that could prove to be its eventual saving grace. Not only
is it spacious, it also contains an impressive stage set-up, featuring a
white grand piano, making it one of the few locations able to host
serious live jazz.
欢乐时光酒水买一送一
在最美的秋季，来欧洲花园畅饮
A: 欧洲花园餐厅 (工体西门的对面) | T: 6551-6680
(Opposite Workers Stadium West Gate)
weibo: pavillionbeijing | www.pavillionbeijing.com.cn
The 1st Annual
Golden Fork
Awards
Presented by
October 31st, 2013 from 8pm – LATE
8pm – 10pm // Awards Show
10pm – Late // Afterparty
Celebrate the all-new restaurant awards held by
That’s Beijing magazine!
Until October 15th, 2013, please vote for your favorite
restaurants via our website, WeChat/Weixin or our fun,
easy-to-use app.
Download our app to win tickets and great prizes!
Scan and vote NOW!
Guests will attend our Halloween-themed costume party!
The daiquiri’s aren’t bad either. After we get up to leave, I notice
that I am still the only drinks-buying patron. That’s a lot of empty
chairs for a bar of this size at 9.40pm on a Saturday night. And a lot
of selfies.
Would you like to win a chance to win a chance to attend?
Scan the QR code and vote NOW to enter our lucky draw where we will randomly
pick 10 email addresses and give you a chance to attend our party of the holiday!
// Daily 6pm-2am, 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号 (No tel.)
Buddying up: Phallic Geoduck and a turbot awkwardly share a tank
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
57
community
tiger father
Halloween Hang-ups
are ghosts and gluttony a treat or trick?
By Trevor Marshallsea
P
art of the joy of moving
your family to China is to
experience first-hand the
rites and rituals of a fascinating
culture that’s very foreign to
your own. Like Halloween.
slowly, over time, and mostly
to herself. Another cited his
health-conscious mum’s approach in his childhood. Her
rule was that all candy not consumed by November 1 would
be donated away. The result
was he and his siblings ate
themselves ill each Halloween
night, and their zeal for the occasion diminished each year.
Now, strictly speaking this may
not be part of China’s fabled
5,000 years of Chineseness.
Confucius mentioned honoring
thy father and thy mother, but
I’ve checked and he doesn’t
say a lot about dressing like a
headless ghoul and demanding
sweets.
Maybe he should have, because
it’s fun. A lot more fun than
all that austerity business. No,
this month we’ll be celebrating
Halloween as one of the things
to enjoy from some of the other cultures in the melting pot of
Expatland.
My family hasn’t always felt
this way. We were notorious
Halloween hold-outs. I should
point out that by "my family"
I mean my wife and me. We
virtually had to hold daughters
Lani and Evie back on strained
leashes during our first two
China Halloweens.
We parents sat smugly at home
in our conscientious objection
– my wife probably knitting and
me reading a very large newspaper in an armchair while
smoking a pipe. The kids did
what any kid would do knowing that outside was a world of
free candy and dress-up. You
can still see their scratch marks
on the door.
Our opposition stemmed from
a couple of areas. On one hand
Halloween did seem – how
should I put it? – a vulgar, consumerist orgy paying homage
to the patron saint of gluttony,
whoever that chubbier-thanthou person was.
And to me, it just didn’t feel like
it was ‘our’ thing, due to my genetic make-up of half Australian
on my mother’s side and half
grumpy old man on my dad’s.
I’ve always believed Australians
just shouldn’t do Halloween.
Surely enough American culture has pervaded our own.
58
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
From left: Supergirl Lani, a “disturbingly scary” Tiger Father and a smiling Evie
‘We virtually had to hold our
daughters back on leashes during our
first two China Halloweens’
Besides, we have our own rites
and celebrations.
without our kids making themselves sick from candies.
Coincidentally, the biggest
one falls only a few days after
Halloween. It’s Melbourne Cup
day, when the whole country
stops what it’s doing to watch a
horse race, and everyone from
little kids to elderly nuns has a
bet. You may ask if this is any
more wholesome than dressing
like the undead and demanding
candy under threat of vandalism. I’ll concede it’s a photo
finish.
Furthermore, in respect to
the expat melting pot, I felt it
would be unfair to embrace
this foreign festival when I
hadn’t embraced any others. At
Ramadan I ate like a king, and
not only did I atone for nothing
at Yom Kippur, I probably just
made it worse.
In any event, our opposition
to Halloween was viewed with
horror by some of our new
expat friends, particularly our
American friend Stephanie. As
far as observance of her country’s festivals goes, I’d describe
her as a fundamentalist.
She organized our compound’s
trick or treating, and felt to
deny our girls Halloween was
like denying them oxygen. I
feared she’d call the child protection authorities if one more
October 31 came and went
But finally we parents cracked,
owing, I’m afraid to say, to that
enemy of parents worldwide:
peer group pressure. Our
friends just wouldn’t leave us
alone.
We at least had some misgivings laid to rest by the knowledge that a lot of charities used
Halloween as a major fundraising event. We also learned
from some seasoned American
campaigners that when it
comes to kids and their candy
booty, there are such things as
“moderating forces.”
Stephanie would hide her
child’s stash and dish them out
So we finally embraced
Halloween. No one died and I
didn’t feel moral decay consuming me any more than usual.
Last year I even dressed up for a
family party. I wore a rainbowstriped hat, a fake moustache
and a pair of glasses with fake
eyes painted on (with sky-blue
eye-shadow).
People winced and said I
looked scary. I thought that was
the point, but most clarified
that I was “disturbing,” as in
(the type who shouldn’t be at
a family function or within 500
meters of a school, if you catch
my drift…) I spent most of the
day alone.
While we now do Halloween, I
retain some vestiges of trenchant scrooge-ism. Kids coming
to my door have to have made
an effort to dress up, otherwise
they go without. (Who ‘tricks’
these days anyway?)
But I didn’t really apply those
aforementioned moderating
forces. Evie ate herself sick –
not due to any deadline, but
a father not paying attention.
Lani imposed her own moderation.
One incredulous American
mum reported Lani had actually handed some candy back,
saying she’d taken too much.
Another Aussie kid opted to
swap her sweets for cash with
her parents to buy Lego. Maybe
Australians can’t do Halloween
properly after all.
// Trevor Marshallsea was a foreign
correspondent in Beijing in the 1990s and
returned a decade later. This time around
he stays at home to grow the kids. Read
more of his domestic adventures at www.
thetigerfather.com
Education
Spinning a Yarn
the art of storytelling
A
h, the art of a good
story, that most ancient
of human processes. Is
there anything that defines us
more as a species than our ability to spin stories? From the very
beginning of civilization, predating written communication
even, storytelling has been instrumental in conveying events
from one person to another.
Even today, it remains ever present in our daily lives whether it
be through books and movies,
or talk between friends.
In order to embrace the raw
power of storytelling, Etonkids
has launched a brand new
English Storytelling Program in
its Nursery and Casa classrooms
for the 2013-2014 school year.
The thematic program immerses
children in one, carefully chosen
story per month that highlights
the theme for the month as well
as reinforcing English vocabulary and syntax geared toward
this theme. Through careful
guidance by each classroom’s
English Specialist, the children
explore the story and its themes
through a variety of art and drama related extension activities.
The program, crafted to the
needs of the average ESL preschooler/kindergarten student,
hopes to engage children in
creative activities that allow
them to exercise their imaginations to their fullest potentials.
Some classic titles the program
includes are The Very Hungry
Caterpillar by Eric Carle, Hop on
Pop by Dr. Seuss, and Alligators
All Around by Maurice Sendak.
Why engage the children in a
thematic program that focuses
on a single book per month?
Etonkids believes in the concepts of reinforcement and repetition in order to teach English
to young learners. Too many
ESL programs and schools today
attempt to engage their children
with too much material at once.
This form of education, though
it may seem strong on paper, is
counterproductive to the learning process, often overwhelming and discouraging the child.
By focusing on a single storybook and a variety of engaging
extension activities, the Etonkids
English Storytelling Program
presents enough content to
keep children continuously on
their toes, while still providing
them enough repetition and
time to truly absorb the material and put it into practice. As
often repeated a phrase it may
be, practice does make perfect;
by giving the children the opportunity to practice repeatedly,
the storytelling program ensures
improvement in its students.
Author and historian Eric Hoffer
once said, "Man is eminently
a storyteller. His search for a
purpose, a cause, an ideal, a
‘Storytelling has
become a crucial
tool for mankind
to engage in the
process of lifelong
learning’
mission is largely a search for a
plot and a pattern in the development of his life story – a story
that is basically without meaning or pattern." Storytelling has
become a crucial tool for mankind to make sense of the world
and to engage in the process of
lifelong learning and development of one’s character and intellect. Everyone is a storyteller
and this form of communication
permeates every corner of society. With it, the education of
a child, especially when learning a second language, can be
enriched with a tried and true
method, that engages them and
encourages them to pass on
their knowledge to others, both
young and old.
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
59
community
Health
bad medicine
False drug Advertising is putting millions at risk
By Meredith Yang
“
My husband had been afflicted with diabetes for
a number of years,” explained Beijing resident Mrs Li.
“We were so happy to see this
ad; we felt like we had finally
found a cure for my husband’s
disease.”
生). Dr. Li will respond to the tag
and confirm it is indeed an FMA,
before tweeting it out again to
his 200,000 plus followers.
So far more than 500 fakes have
been accumulated through this
tagging system. Acknowledging
that it’s the young, and not the
elderly that are on Weibo, Dr.
Li hopes that “grandsons and
granddaughters” that will use
this as a reference point to warn
elderly family members. He is
currently working on compiling a database of FMAs, which
will allow users to access and
browse past FMAs including
which media channels they were
distributed through.
RMB30,000, 20 kinds of pill, and
five years later, Mr Li’s condition
had progressively worsened,
eventually leading to his death
in January. His wife choked back
tears: “If I hadn't introduced
these ads to him, he wouldn’t
be dead.”
Mr. Li’s story is not uncommon.
Founder of China’s largest online community of physicians,
DXY.cn, Dr. Stanley Li estimates
that 15 to 30 million Chinese fall
for claims made by false medical
advertising (FMAs) every year. Of
the RMB300 to 400 billion spent
on medical advertising annually,
around RMB60 billion is thought
to be spent on FMAs.
The production of fake medicine is nothing new in China,
where producers have been
selling fake meds to stateowned hospitals for decades.
In 1985, 57 factories were
reported to be involved in
the production of counterfeit
meds. The competition posed
by these fake medical producers to state-owned enterprises
eventually led to a government
clampdown. But now the industry is back.
Counterfeit meds often target
the elderly – especially those in
rural areas – who are more susceptible to FMAs exaggerated
medical claims. While medical
advertisements are required
to print their license numbers,
FMAs purposely print the numbers so small that the elderly
cannot see it.
But “exaggerated” can be almost
too innocuous a term, it seems.
As Dr. Li explains: “When we say
we’ve ‘exaggerated’, we usually
mean we’ve dialed something
up from one to two. What FMAs
have done, however, is on a
completely different scale – from
zero to ten. They’re blatantly
lying – with potentially very dan60
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
‘It’s an open
secret in statemedia. They sign
fake contracts’
gerous results.”
Many of these ads promote pills
to cure diabetes, for example,
an ailment widely known to be
still incurable.
“Even if fake pills are not deadly
(substitutes often include flour,
starch and sugar), for someone
who is already sick these can
have dangerous irreversible effects,” says Dr Li.
Of course, diabetes is just one
of the many diseases targeted.
Bogus ads can appear all over
the place, claiming to provide a
cure for everything – from
hypertension to heart disease
and even cancer.
One particular full-page ad in
the “health” section of a
reputable national newspaper
runs as follows: “Nine Nobel
Prize winners have made an
astonishing discovery: eliminate
cancer – elongate your life with
“Super-Mycin”! New method!
Eliminate 19 different types of
cancer! Results have already
been realized in real life!”
Earlier this March, a woman
in Hangzhou died from Lupus
after buying ineffective drugs
from a fake ad similar to the one
above. Had she sought professional treatment, her chance of
survival would have stood at 95
percent.
So what has the newly reformed
CFDA (China Food and Drug
Administration) done to monitor FMAs? Unsurprisingly—very
little. In a Xinhua report this
past June, a nationwide study
across two hundred or so media
outlets—including TV stations
and newspapers— revealed that
90 percent of medical ads were
fake.
“It’s a widespread open secret
within state-owned media,” says
Dr Li. “They’ll sign fake contracts
to get these ads into newspapers and on TV. As with many
things in China, all the fines and
laws are in place; it’s enforcement that’s the issue.”
Frustrated by the media and a
hapless pharmaceutical industry,
Dr Li has partnered with three
other colleagues and prominent
medical experts to create a social media platform designed to
use crowd-sourced images to
fight against the silent killer.
After seeing a suspected false
ad, users simply post the image
to Weibo with a specific tag or
tweet at Dr. Li himself (@丁香医
Dr. Li estimates that he’ll need
10-15 more years to fully tackle
the FMA industry. While the
governments response to medical emergencies has certainly
improved since the SARS
outbreak, the lack of a sense of
urgency impedes any true,
public response.
The contagious nature of H7N9
for instance demands immediate action, whereas the impact
of FMAs remains ambiguous,
sometimes even untraceable,
and thus underreported.
The bribery and scandal we see
in today’s healthcare system is
rooted in China’s past. During
tougher economic times, China’s
hospitals derived the majority
of their revenue from a 15 percent commission on drug sales
to compensate for government
underfunding.
Doctors are incentivized to sell
drugs excessively and prescribe
unnecessary examinations. “
Sadly, what FMAs demonstrate
is how little regard China’s profit-driven healthcare system has
for its patients. Dr. Li and his
team of four, all working on a
voluntary basis, recognize this.
“We simply want to empower
the patient, to make the patient
the most important person,” he
says. “Simply put, we need to
create a situation in which we
can trust the medical industry,
without fear.”
advertorial
Translating China
PRC launches its biggest international literary prize
BY karoline kan
both top-level Chinese literary
awards. The organizers hope that
the careful selection process will
make the competition much more
representative of quality and that,
after the competition, the winners’ works will also be published
abroad for readers to enjoy.
Mo Yan’s success abroad has
been taken as a good example
of how Chinese literature can
be popular in other countries.
And accurate and sympathetic
translations, not just direct and
word for word, that also consider
the tastes of local readers, were
no doubt an essential part of his
works’ success.
“Although the Chinese language
has the largest number of speakers, according to the Tribune’s
related survey, the quality of
translation of Chinese literature
is still blocking its expanding
oversea, especially in the US
and in Europe,” Zhang Yanbin
points out. “Because Chinese
and Western language are so
different, there is a high risk to
publishing Chinese literature.
The expense and energy it takes
to publish and promote a good
translated Chinese work is so
much that it worries publishers
a lot.”
J
oseph Nye’s ‘soft power’
theory has proved popular in China, even as the
government struggles to harness
its own. Among some of the
powers the government wants to
strengthen, literature is regarded
as one of the most important.
Improving translation levels is
regarded as an essential part
of Chinese literature’s promotion abroad. To ensure this, the
Information Office of the State
Council (IOSC) held the first
“China International Translation
Competition” in early September.
It’s not the first time that IOSC
has held an event like this to
realize its goal. In 2006 and in
2009, the Promotion Plan of
Chinese Books and Translating
and Publishing Books on Chinese
Culture were “aimed at promoting
more Chinese books in foreign
markets and providing foreign
readers with more Chinese litera-
ture books with quality translation,” according to Zhang Yanbin,
Chief of the thrid bureau of IOSC,
at September’s launch ceremony.
The International Translation
Competition will be China’s
largest translation competition
so far, held in conjunction with
several organizations, including the China Publishing Group,
Penguin Books, Hachette Book
Group and Egypt-China Culture
Exchange Association as coorganizers.
From September 2 to February
28, 2014, participants can submit
translated works of approved
short stories to the committee in
five languages: English, French,
Russian, Spanish and Arabic.
From March to April, the committee will review all submissions
and award outstanding ones.
The competition is open to both
Chinese and foreign translators
willing to present contemporary
Chinese literature in a foreign
language.
According to Shi Zhanjun, chief
editor of People’s Literature
publishing house, the selection process is very strict. Two
requirements are considered.
First is the content, which should
be a “Chinese story with shared
value”. Second is the artistic
side – components like structure,
language, plot and artistic ambitions are all important. Based on
these standards, 30 novels from
writers who have mostly won
literary award both domestically
and abroad were chosen. “The
30 novels are the essence of
Chinese contemporary literature
and reflect the creativity levels of
Chinese literature since Reform
and Opening Up,” Shi told media.
Besides Mo Yan, who won last
year’s Nobel Prize for Literature,
27 others have won either the
Maodun or Luxun literary prizes,
This is the first step to finding
good translators and further
training them. “I think literary
translation is the most difficult
one of them all, because literature
consists of everything. Some
terms are very Chinese, and
many things have their special,
cultural background. That is the
hard part, but also the most exciting part. Because it is hard, the
good translators will stand out.
That is the purpose of the translation competition,” said Huang
Youyi, Secretary General of the
Translators Association of China
(TAC).
And if that doesn’t moisten your
ink, consider the loot: first prize
is 5,000 Yankee dollars, second
(two available) is USD3,000 and
there’s also a stack of books
thrown in, plus membership of
the TAC.
// Applicants should send work to the China
International Translation Contest Committee,
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
61
events
pick of six art exhibitions
Particulars of Collectivism:
Meng Site Solo Exhibition
Until Oct 15. Space Station, 798 Art
District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区中一街
(5978 9671, www.space-station-art.com)
‘Them’: Wang Liming
Until Oct 18. Art Gallery,
East Region, Songzhuang, Tongzhou
District 通州区宋庄艺术东区阿特画廊 (5128
2297, www.ccartd.com/OnlineGallery)
‘The Leftover
Banquet,’ Touring
Exhibition: Zhang
Linhai’s Solo-show
Until Nov 20. Linda Gallery
Beijing, 798 Art District 2
Jiuxianqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒
仙桥路2号798艺术区 (5978
9565, www.lindagallery.com)
White Dew- Painting and Ceramic
show: Li Jikai
Until Oct 27. Amyli Gallery, 54 Caochangdi(old airport road), Chaoyang District 朝阳区机场辅路草场
地54号 (6434 0616, www.amyligallery.com)
‘World in
Antithesis’:
Qiao
Xiaoguang
Oct 12 – Nov 6.
Can Art Centre,
798 Art District,
2 Jiuxianqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District
朝阳区酒仙桥路
2号798艺术区
(5978 9760)
60
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
Li Chao solo
exhibition
Oct 10-29. Today
Art Museum,
Bldg 4, Pingod
Community, 32
Baiziwan Lu,
Chaoyang District
朝阳区百子湾路32
号苹果社区4号楼
(5876 0600, www.
todayartmuseum.
com)
events
Events are editors’ picks of the best activities and are
not comprehensive. To list an event, email bjevents@
urbanatomy.com. For some details, see Listings.
NIGHTLIFE
OCT 1-3
Nightlife
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Gig: Tongzhou Canal Kylin Festival
In the absence of the usual Midi and
Modern Sky Fests over the October
holiday, we are given the Kylin Festival
– a 5-stage, 100 band fest on the old
Strawberry stomping grounds in the
increasingly hip Tongzhou district,
the new Gulou. Cui Jian, Zheng Jun,
Miserable Faith, Tengger, Muma, AV
Okubo, Mr. Graceless and others will
grant your Chinese rock fix over the
holiday.
//RMB150 a day, RMB400 for 3-day pass
(RMB120 a day, RMB300 3-day pre-sale)
Tongzhou Canal Park, Tongzhou district.
通州运河麒麟国际音乐节, 通州运河公园
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DJ: Gunne & Zuckermann
The founders and ambassadors of
the Lebensfreude (German joie de
vivre), Gunne & Zuckermann are a
unique DJ duo that combine to embody the soul of Berlin’s electronic
music. Wunderbar.
//Free, 9pm. DADA Bar, 101Room,
B building, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街
206号B栋101室
Oct 1
OCT 6
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: P.O.D (USA)
Although Beijing gets a lot of, ahem…
90s acts, sometimes we strike gold.
This California nu-metal quartet with a
Christian twist deliver so much intense
fire and brimstone that they’d put the
fear of God back in any non-believer.
//RMB150 (RMB120 pre-sale), 7pm.
The One, 19 Gaobeidian Beilu, 718
Art Zone, No. 5 壹空间, 高碑店北路甘
露园19号718传媒文化创意园5号 (8579
2737-8000)
OCT 1-15
COMMUNITY
Oct 4
Gig: Peter Piek
German artist-musician Peter Piek thinks about pictures when he’s singing, and
hears music when he paints. Apart from being the perfect decorator for a music
room, his creations are just as uniquely catchy as his peculiarly elfish voice.
//RMB50 (RMB40 pre-sale), 9pm. Jianghu Bar, 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou
Nan Dajie, Dongcheng District 江湖酒吧东城区东棉花胡同号 6401 5269)
ART
EAT&DRINK
Exhibition: Twin Tastes/Twin Tongues
Spanish artist Antoni Miralda features
in this cross-culture multimedia exhibition, the reflecting a comparative approach between Chinese and Spanish
cultures. In collaboration with the
Chinese artist Li Jin. Tapas vs. Dim Sum,
essentially.
//Free, 10am-7pm. Instituto Cervantes
in Beijing. A1, Gongti Nanlu, Distrito
Chaoyang District朝阳区工体南路A1.
(5879 9666)
EAT/DRINK
Charity: Eat for Children
Pick up Chi Fan for Charity tickets,
which go on sale from October
8, priced between RMB 500-1000.
On November 2, over 50 venues will
each serve a table of 10 a three-course
meal (or Chinese equivalent) and two
glasses of wine, with an after-party
at the TaiKoo Li branch of Hatsune
from 10pm. Little Flower Projects and
Educating Girls of Rural China get the
proceeds. Eat, needy kids get stuff:
everybody wins!
//www.chifanforcharity.org
COMMUNITY
OCT 5
NIGHTLIFE
Music: Capital M New Music Series: Mix
This month’s chamber music concert
focuses on composers of diverse cultures who write new compositions.
The Capital M New Music series features classical music performed by the
Capital Music String Quartet, a group
of young, talented musicians from the
Beijing Central Conservatory of Music.
Reservations required.
//RMB75, 4pm. (6702 2727, [email protected])
Capital M, 3rd Floor, 2 Qianmen
Pedestrian Street, Dongcheng District东
城区前门步行街2号(6702 2727)
OCT 8-31
OCT 4-5
Film: Argentinian Film Festival
In the first week of October, the last
two movies from the Argentinian Film
Festival, The Die Is Cast and Asleep In
The Sun will be screened at Instituto
Cervantes, in collaboration with the
Argentine Embassy. Spanish language,
with Chinese subtitles.
//Free, 7pm. Instituto Cervantes in
Beijing. A1, Gongti Nanlu, Distrito
Chaoyang District朝阳区工体南路A1.
(5879 9666)
Gig: Suede (UK)
Suede is coming back to Beijing, a
place they are still considered ‘cool’, to
promote their new album Bloodsports.
Formed in 1989, the London alt-rockers rode the Brit-Pop wave in the 90s
similar to heavyweights like Blur and
Oasis, before reforming in 2010.
// RMB580-780, Worker's Gymnasium,
Gongti Beilu, 工体北路工人体育馆 www.
sendmetickets.com
Oct 12
Nightlife
OCT 1 TO 20
Festival: Jiaodong Food Festival
October is national seafood month, so dig in at the Wangfujing Hilton Beijing
with their authentic Jiaodong, Shandong cuisine (lasting until October 20).
Far from China’s most exciting province, but Shandong cuisine is a culinary art
known for its extensive history and far-reaching influence.
//Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8 Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng District王府井东街
8号(5812 8817) Gig: Deskarats (Catalonia)
Ska legends of the Iberian peninsula
look to conquer the Orient with skankable songs that have earned these
rude boys respect on leading labels
in the New World. Whatever you do,
don’t call them Spaniards, or you’ll be
bouncing out the door, cabrón.
//RMB60 (RMB40 pre-sale), 10pm.
2Kolegas, 21 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang
District 两个好朋友酒吧朝阳区亮马桥
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
61
events
路 21号 (6436 8998, www.2kolegas.com)
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Low Wormwood
Indie folksters from Lanzhou return
to hock their new album on a 30-date
tour. They’re earthy melodies are perfect for that obnoxious college friend
stopping in town looking to hear ‘local tunes,’ yet are low-key enough for
him to talk over the music about how
cheap knock-offs are at the Yashow
Market.
//RMB100 (RMB80 pre-sale) Mako
Live House, Hongdian Art Factory, 36
Guangqu Lu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区广渠路36号红点艺术工厂 (5205
1112, www.mako001.com) COMMUNITY
Film: The Questioning 查房 (2013, 20min)
This short documentary captures a visit
to support a human rights activist in
Xinyu, a small town in Jiangxi province.
Notable for director Zhu Rikun discreetly switching on his camera when
the police come for a midnight ‘inspection’ of his hotel room. Zhu is also the
co-founder of the Beijing Independent
Film Festival. Screening followed
by Q&A session with the director.
Advanced reservation required.
//RMB40, includes soft drinks, 8-10pm.
Culture Yard, 10 Shique Hutong,
Dongcheng District 东城区石雀胡同10
号 (8404 4166, [email protected],
www.cultureyard.net)
OCT 18-19
EAT/DRINK
Happy Hour: Champagne and Oysters
at The Opposite House
When boutique does happy hour. Free
oyster (single piece) and glass of prosecco pre-dinner for all guests as well
as a small bottle of olive oil and cakes
in the gift pack. Food and wine on offer at 20% -30% off.
//LG, The Opposite House, The Village,
1 Building, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼
[email protected]
(6410 5230)
OCT 18
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Drop The Lime
Drop the Lime is the founder of one of
NYC's hottest electronic music labels.
Mixing genres like breakcore, drum
and bass, trap, and rock-a-billy, Drop
The Lime's sounds have always been
ahead of trends, and just pure hot fire
on dance floors across the world.
//RMB60, DADA Bar, 101Room, B building, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng
District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B栋101室
Gig: Patti Austin
Damnit Beijing, you don’t know how
lucky you are. We’ve purposefully only
listed this gig as not to distract you
from seeing this living treasure of a
jazz vocalist whose won Grammys,
performed at the Oscars and sang
with everyone from Luther Vandross
to Michael Jackson on his album Off
The Wall.
RMB280-1280, 8pm. Forbidden City
Concert Hall, Inside Zhongshan Park,
Xichang’an Jie, Xicheng District 西城区
西长安街中山音乐厅 (6559 8285, www.
fcchbj.com)
COMMUNITY
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Gig: Skip & Die
The love child of South African lead singer Cata Pirata and Dutch musician Jori
Collignon, this sextet of world music molests hip hop, cumbia and the avant
garde for music that moves your lower half – think M.I.A. making it with Manu
Chao at Carnivàle with lots of drums, drums, drums. That’s Beijing got a chance
to talk with Jori before Skip & Die’s riot in Beijing.
What is the story behind your name?
We are called SKIP&DIE because our character traits, views on life and the
world around us are so full of paradoxes and cosmic dualities. It is based on the
idea of the YIN and the YANG. ‘SKIP’ and ‘DIE’ are not merely opposites, they
exist together and compliment one another. The name also refers to a joke
with our friends: if you skip this song, you die!
Cata sings in lots of languages - so how many can you all speak? Speak any
Chinese?
All summed up together we speak around seven languages. Cata Pirata studied
Mandarin for a year at university, so maybe one day we will write a song in
Chinese!
What is your biggest concern about coming here and what is something
you really wanna try to do? (saying “the Great Wall” or “The Forbidden City”
doesn’t count)
For me the most interesting thing for this trip is to create a connection with the
Chinese people through our music. People don’t have to understand where we
come from or where the music comes from, but I hope they will understand
the energy and party with us. Cata’s father used to teach Tai-Chi Chuan in South
Africa and still wakes up before dawn to do it, so she grew up learning about
the strength of the Chi.
You incorporate a variety of beats in your music. Are there different beats
that get crowds crazier in different places? What’s hot where?
It feels we have a great connection with the southern countries of Europe.
France is amazing, Spain is great and we fell in love with Portugal. It seems
people there are more used to the tropical beats and the mixing of our musical
genres. The more Northern-European crowds enjoy the show, but they have the
tendency to be a bit more stand-offish, admire and watch; whereas the warm
blooded people easily party and dance!
You can’t help but notice Riots in the Jungle is a very political album. If you
could write a song about the situation in Syria, what would it sound like and
what would it say?
It’s not easy -if not impossible- to make sense of situations like this by just
following the media. If we were to write a song about the situation in Syria, it
might be a very emotional, instrumental song; one instrument, a lonely Persian
setar, or a flute, played outside in a refugee camp.
Or perhaps, in another version of the song, UN-inspectors find out Mr Assad is
in fact gay and as a consequence to this discovery Mr Putin immediately drops
his protection. The regime falls without Mr Obama sending his bombs and
Omar Souleyman becomes the new Syrian president after earnest and peaceful
democratic elections. The people will celebrate and dance in the streets for
1001 days and nights.
If you had a chance to buy a pet monkey while on tour, how much would you
be willing to pay and what would his name be?
We already do HAVE a pet monkey on tour! We call it Cata. We pay it peanuts.
//RMB120 (RMB100 pre-sale), 9pm. Yugong Yishan, 3-2 Zhang Zizhong Lu,
Dongcheng District 愚公移山东城区张自忠路 3-2号(6404 2711, www.yugongyishan.com)
Charity: International Newcomer’s
Network Annual Charity Social
INN's Annual Charity Social is hosting
an event where new and seasoned
expats can share a drink and a tale or
two together while benefiting three
fantastic charities. Fabulous live entertainment, hearty appetizers and finger
food, free flow beer & wine, grand raffle prize draw and silent auction with
proceeds benefiting INN's supported
charities!
//5-9pm, RMB300 for adults, free for
children under 5, RMB200 for children
6-11 years old. Beijing Marriott Hotel
Northeast, 26A Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang
District朝阳区霄云路26A. Tickets
available at International Center for
Veterinary Services (ICVS) Wangjing
(8456-1939/1940), Beijing Marriott
Hotel NorthEast, Or at all INN events
and activities!(www.innbeijing.org, [email protected])
OCT 19
NIGHTLIFE
DJ: Jon Kennedy
Jon Kennedy is a major player in the
UK's trip hop scene -- on radio, curating festivals, and rocking dance floors
from Manchester to Budapest. His productions are in the vein of DJ Shadow,
but as a DJ he takes crowds on a journey of eclectic sounds.
//RMB50, DADA Bar, 101 Room, B building, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng
District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B栋101室
Gig: Residence A
For those of you who missed this latest
energetic power indie ‘it’ band’s EP release last month, don’t be down when
your friend brags how “amazing” it
was – because they’ll always deliver
next month. MeTOO support.
//RMB50, 10pm. 2Kolegas, 21
Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 两
个好朋友酒吧朝阳区亮马桥路 21号 (6436
8998,www.2kolegas.com)
OCT 19-27
SPORTS
NFL: New England Patriots
Cheerleader
New England Patriots’ cheerleaders
will be visiting Beijing as a part of
NFL China's "Think Pink" initiative for
October's Breast Cancer Awareness
Month and they will be attending NFL
Home Field events in Beijing, Shanghai
and Guangzhou. There will be a cheer
clinic slated for the morning and NFL
China is talking to local schools for
thee cheerleaders to lead student
cheerleading workshops.
//Up-to-date schedules for each week's
NFL Home Field are available at http://
www.nflchina.com/eng/homefield/beijing. ( [email protected])
Oct 20
nightlife
Gig: Illness Sickness
Join this quartet celebrate their longawaited EP release with their brand
of prog-post-proto-punk-rock for the
coming apocalypse (with extra hyphens). 16 Mins support.
//RMB60 (RMB40 pre-sale, RMB80 includes CD),8.30pm. XP, 2 Di’anmen Xi
Dajie, Xicheng District西城区地安门西
大街2号6406 9947, site.douban.com/
xpbeijing
NIGHTLIFE
OCT 24
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COMMUNITY
Talk: The Reflection on China from Latin
America
The Instituto Cervantes in Beijing will
host the first meeting of the representatives of the Chinese observatories from
several Latin American countries. The
representatives will explain in three distinct dialogs their perception of China,
on three distinct subjects: political,
economic, cultural and mass communication.
//Free, time TBC. Instituto Cervantes
in Beijing, A1, Gongti Nanlu, Distrito
Chaoyang District朝阳区工体南路A1.
(http://pekin.cervantes.es/cn/about_
us_centre_spanisl.htm, 5879 9666)
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Oct 30
NIGHTLIFE
Oct 25
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Jay-Jay Johanson
We were deprived this blue Swedish
mockingbird last year with a last minute
cancellation, but fortunately his velvety
vocals and melancholy ballads just
couldn’t quit the capital. Time to rev up
your man crushes.
//RMB180 (RMB130 pre-sale), 8.30pm.
Mako Live House, Hongdian Art Factory,
36 Guangqu Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区广渠路36号红点艺术工厂
(5205 1112, www.mako001.com) Oct 12
Gig: Nite Jewel
Able to find the sweet spot of lo-fi pop bliss, it’s easy to imagine Ramona
Gonzalez as a young protégé of Prince – a willing and beautiful disciple of The
Revolution. Hailing from Los Angeles, this synthy songbird flies solo to Beijing
for a neatly compact show of drones, drums and dance that always take you
home.
//RMB70 (RMB50 pre-sale), 9pm. XP, 2 Di’anmen Xi Dajie, Xicheng District西城区
地安门西大街2号 6406 9947, site.douban.com/xpbeijing.
OCT 26
Community
NIGHTLIFE
Party: Halloween 80’s vs. 90’s Retro
Derby
Dress up, skate, dance, and drink to
the best music from the best decades.
Wake up black and blue the next day,
remember why you gave up rollerblading age 10.
//RMB80, RMB50 with costume and/
or your own skates, Entrance includes
skate rental and 1 free drink. 9pm.
Mako Livehouse, 36 Guangqu Lu,
Chaoyang District朝阳区广渠路36号院
(010-52051113, www.mako001.com,
[email protected])
COMMUNITY
Oct 31
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: My Own Private Alaska
No stranger to Beijing, this French numetal trio is made completely approachable not by taking away the screams
but adding the piano, which gives the
impression you’re watching a silent film,
and Satan’s at the organ. And he’s good.
//RMB80 (limit 200 people), 9pm.
School Bar, 53 Wudaoying Hutong,
Dongcheng District 学校酒吧东城区五道
营胡同 53号 (6402 8881)
COMMUNITY
Film: Classic Horror Flicks
DADA’s Movie Mondays is celebrating
Halloween all month long with a selection of randomly chosen horror classics
– basically the best four horror movies
right off the top of our heads, hitting
up four decades ('60s, '70s, '80s, '90s).
Oct 7, Psycho (Hitchcock 1960); Oct 14,
The Exorcist (Friedkin 1973); Oct 21, The
Shining (Kubrick 1980); Oct 28, Army of
Darkness (Riami 1992). Various languages, with English subtitles.
//Free entry and free popcorn. Bar
opens at 8pm and Screenings start
at 9pm. DADA Bar, 101Room, B building, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng
District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B栋101室
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Painkiller’s 13th Anniversary
As China’s original heavy metal mag,
Painkiller is proving it’s got the brass to
keep going another lucky 13 years with
German thrash titan Kreator.
//RMB280(RMB220 pre-sale), 7pm.
Yugong Yishan, 3-2 Zhang Zizhong Lu,
Dongcheng District 愚公移山东城区张自
忠路 3-2号(6404 2711, www.yugongyishan.com)
Gig: Folk sampler
A Chinese folk sampler can be daunting
– but we’ve provided a little flavor chart
so you know the flavors – Ningxia folk
rockers Li Dong and Buyi – Smoky and
Spicy; pained minstrel Dong Zi – sentimental; choir girl Wang Juan – snoozy;
Shanxi’s Liu Dongming – strummy and
local nutcase Xiao He – spazzy.
//RMB100, 9pm. 2Kolegas, 21
Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 两
个好朋友酒吧朝阳区亮马桥路 21号 (6436
8998, www.2kolegas.com)
EVERY MONDAY
Oct 27
Gig: Hanggai CD Release
You’ve seen them at festivals, you’ve
seen them shirtless, now catch your
favorite Beijing-based Mongolians who
have quickly become a gateway band to
the grasslands as they rip through their
latest material and classic throat-singing
classics.
//RMB120 (includes CD), 10pm.
2Kolegas, 21 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang
District 两个好朋友酒吧朝阳区亮马桥
路 21号 (6436 8998, www.2kolegas.
com)
Talk: Collecting Art, Show and Tell
A new series of monthly discussions at
Capital M, on the strange compulsion of
art collecting. Simon Kirby, contemporary visual arts specialist, in conversation
with notable collectors focusing on particular works from their collections along
with contributions from invited specialists and commentators.
//RMB75, includes a drink, 4pm. Capital
M, 3 Floor, 2 Qianmen Pedestrian
Street, Dongcheng District 东城区前门步
行街2号 (6702 2727)
OCT 17
Talk: The Lost Generation
with Michel Bonnin
Bonnin’s The Lost Generation: The Rustication of China’s Educated Youth
(1968–1980) provides a comprehensive account of the movement during which
17 million young "educated" city-dwellers were sent to be transformed into
peasants, potentially for life. The author draws on a rich and diverse array of
sources, concluding with a comprehensive assessment of the movement that
shaped an entire generation.
//RMB50, RMB40 for members, 7.30pm. The Bookworm, Courtyard 4, Nan
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯路4号院 (6586 9507, www.beijingbookworm.com)
Film: Mad Men Monday
October’s screening theme at Modernista
is award-winning US ad-agency drama
Mad Men. It kicks off on the first Monday
with episode one, season one. Stuff the
popcorn; pair it up with a classic cocktail.
Every Monday there’ll be offers on a
different section of the cocktail menu:
aperitif, long drinks, tropical, swing era. //Free, 8-10pm. Modernista, 44 Baochao
Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区宝
钞胡同44号 (136 9142 5744, [email protected])
SPORT
Dance: Square Dancing Class
Find a willing partner and learn the old
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
63
events
Community
American group dance. The first week’s
class is free.
//Price TBC. 8.30pm. Modernista, 44
Baochao Hutong, Dongcheng District 东
城区宝钞胡同44号 (136 9142 5744, [email protected])
EVERY MONDAY TO
FRIDAY
EAT/DRINK
Eat: Lunch at Café Sambal
Cafe Sambal does a contemporary take
on nasi campur, a classic Malaysian style
lunch. For RMB78, you get four delicacies, like sambal prawns, Kapitan curry
chicken, curried vegetables, etc. Rotating
selection, with more options for a light
lunch.
//11.30am-1pm. 43 Doufuchi Hutong,
Dongcheng东城区豆腐池胡同43号 (6400
4875)
Eat: RMB98 Business Lunch
Hilton Beijing is offering you an luxurious surrounding in which to conduct
your meetings, or just gather with
friends for a slap up lunch. One East’s
chef uses only the freshest ingredients
for his best of American cuisine. Suits
and briefcases optional.
//Two-course set lunch: RMB98 net per
person, Non-alcoholic beverage: RMB20
net per drink, 12-2.30pm. Hilton Beijing,
1 Dongfang Lu, Bei Dongsanhuan Lu,
Chaoyang District北京希尔顿酒店,朝阳区
东三环北路东方路一号(5865 5125, 5865
5030, [email protected])
EVERY SUNDAY
SPORT
Basketball: Mashup Basketball 2013 Fall
League
Time to lace up those kicks! Get ready
for ankle-breaking crossovers, tear-drop
jumpers, and glass-clanking happy hours
with the rest of the league!
//3-5pm, BCIS in Shuangjing, for more
information, visit www.mashupsports.
com/leagues/mashup-basketball-fall2013-league
EVERY FRIDAY AND SATURDAY
Film: Colombia Film Festival
The Cervantes Institute of Beijing, in collaboration with the Embassy of
Colombia, will be screening some of Colombia’s freshest flicks over October.
//Free, 7pm on Friday, 6pm on Saturday. Instituto Cervantes in Beijing. A1, Gongti
Nanlu, Distrito Chaoyang District朝阳区工体南路A1 (5879 9666)
EVERY WEDNESDAY
Community
AND SATURDAY
COMMUNITY
Tour: Emperors, Eunuchs and
Concubines
Learn about the nightmares that forced
Emperor Yongle to move his capital
to Beijing; find out why men were willing to become eunuchs in order to get
access to the inner realms of his palace;
and see why being an Imperial concubine
was such a dangerous job. Take a tour of
the Forbidden City with a native English
speaking guide from this Tripadvisor.
com 5 Star Certificate Of Excellence winning tour company, and see the home
of Chinese Emperors come back to life
before your very eyes.
//Wednesday 10am-12pm, Saturday
2-4pm. RMB260 (adults); RMB130 (kids
under 14); includes native English
speaking guide and Forbidden City entry tickets. See website for starting point
and private tour pricing; pre-booking required (138 1777 0229, [email protected], www.newmantours.com)
Drink: Absinthe Green Hour
Celebrate Modernista’s recent reopening
with their special Absinthe deals. Up to
25 % discount on their selection – that’s
RMB15-40 off per glass. More than 20
new kinds of the finest green firewater to
try, served in the traditional way.
//6-8pm. Modernista, 44 Baochao
Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区宝
钞胡同44号 (136 9142 5744, [email protected])
COMMUNITY
Workshop: Survival Chinese
64
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
ALL MONTH
EAT/DRINK
Eat: Heavenly Hairy Crab
For a whole month, Hairy Crab gourmands will be able to have a hearty feast
of this much sought-after delicacy at
Yao Chi Chinese Restaurant at the Grand
Millenium. The roe and tender meat is
specially selected from the finest crabs
and will be exquisitely prepared for discerning diners.
//Male crabs (RMB 248/crab), female
crabs (RMB 228/crab), 7 Dongsanhuan
Zhonglu, Chaoyang District朝阳区东三环
中路7号 (www.grandmillenniumbeijing.
com. 8587 6888, 8587 6999)
Happy Hour: Liberal Sunday Brunch
Celebrate Sunday in style with family
and friends at the City Wall Bistro’s lavish Sunday Brunch. Feast on a carnival
of flavors from east to west. Adults can
add some fizz with free-flow imported
Sparkling Wine, Red and White Wine, alcoholic and non- alcoholic specially made
cocktails, while children will delight in
the kid zone. Burn off the cals after with
a stroll out at the Ming Dynasty City Wall
Garden next door.
//RMB288 per person, 11.30am-2.30pm.
Beijing Marriott Hotel City Wall, No.7
Jian Guo Men South Avenue, Dongcheng
District东城区建国门南大街7号5811 8255
NOV 2
EAT/DRINK
EVERY SATURDAY
EAT/DRINK
Dynamic, engaging and interactive way
to learn the basics of Mandarin Chinese
– the 4 series Survival Chinese workshop
is designed for newcomers and visitors
to China. No BS, just the essential skills
to get by in daily situations. Oct 12, small
talk; Oct 19, ordering food; Oct 26, getting around; Nov 2, shopping.
//RMB150 per session (RMB500 advanced payment for all 4), 10am-12pm.
Culture Yard, 10 Shique Hutong,
Dongcheng District 东城区石雀胡同10
号 (8404 4166, [email protected],
www.cultureyard.net)
OCT 31
Pets: Happy Halloween
Trick-or-Treat
Celebrate Halloween at the International Center for Veterinary Services. Every
pet that comes to ICVS on October 31st will receive a Halloween treat and gift.
And if your pet performs a trick, they’ll give them an extra serving of treats.
Cute!
//9am-8pm. International Center for Veterinary Services, 13-16 Rong Ke Gan Lan
Cheng Shang Jie, Futong Xi Dajie, Wangjing, Chaoyang District 朝阳区望京阜通
西大街融科橄榄城商街13-16号Opposite Mercedes Benz Tower, behind the Smile
Angel Children’s Hospital)
(8456-1939/1940, [email protected], www.ICVSASIA.com)
Tasting: Hilton Beijing Food & Wine
Experience
Take a worldwide wine tour at Hilton
Beijing’s Food and Wine Experience as
you sample delicious food during this extraordinary culinary parade. Hilton Beijing
has prepared a wide range of activities
for attendees participating, such as wine
tasting, trade tastings, grand tastings,
chocolate/coffee pairing, competitions
and much more.
//Trade: 11am-7pm; Public: 1-7pm.
RMB280 per person including one lunch
or dinner. Hilton Beijing, 1 Dongfang Lu,
Bei Dongsanhuan Lu, Chaoyang District
北京希尔顿酒店,朝阳区东三环北路东方路
一号(5865 5125)
Taiwan Style
Keeping it real,
on Two Wheels
T
aiwan may be a small
island, but don’t let its
size fool you – with over
36,000 square kilometers
(14,400 square miles) of compact
and easily accessible stunning
natural scenery, Taiwan is a true
travelers paradise. Taiwan or Ilha
Formosa (beautiful island) as it’s
still sometimes known, lies on
the western edge of the Pacific
"rim of fire," where centuries of
continuous tectonic movements
have created some of the world’s
most majestic peaks, lush rolling
hills, expansive verdant plains,
deep mysterious basins and
rugged coastlines – and that’s
not to mention the endless
golden beaches and explosive
sunrises.
With so much natural variety
and unique scenery, the Taiwan
government has worked to
establish eight national parks
and thirteen national scenic
areas to ensure the preservation
of the island’s natural ecology
and local culture for generations
to come. There are various ways
to discover and explore all that
Taiwan has to offer, from hiking
and trekking to scenic interrailing – but perhaps the best
way to take it all in, is on two
wheels. Cycling has become
a popular trend in recent
years across the island, due to
the rapid increase in scenic,
eco-friendly and fun cycling
paths that have been newly
constructed as part of a plan to
link the entire country with over
5,000km of specially designed
cycle track.
The sheer choice of tracks
available mean that there is
something for all tastes, agegroups and fitness levels – some
lighter flat coastal tracks are
suitable for the whole family,
while others contain striking
mountain trails that pose
exciting challenges for even the
most experienced professionals.
The 2013 Taiwan Cycling
Festival, held from November
9 to 17, is the highlight of the
annual cycling calendar, with
professional international
races, short cycling tours and
incredible organized cycling
tours across the entire island! Taiwan’s comprehensive cycling
track network makes accessing
some of the island’s most
spectacular sights reasonably
straightforward. For example,
stopping off to trek amid
the magnificence of the cliffs at
Taroko Gorge, or hiking up to
the summit of Northeast Asia's
highest peak, Yu Mountain,
or if hiking’s not your thing,
soaking up the sun in Kending,
Asia's version of Hawaii or
watching the sun rise above
Sun Moon Lake – named by
CNN as one of the world’s top
cycling destinations, all are in
easy reach thanks to the cycling
track network. Not only is it an
awesome journey of natural
discovery, but it’s a great way to
enrich the mind and body too.
Fresh clean air, coastal breezes,
and amazing scenery – what
more can you possibly want!
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
65
events
HAPPY HOURS
Aria Bar
Mon-Fri 5-8pm, two-for-one drinks.
2/F, China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomen
Waidajie, Chaoyang District 建国门外大街1
号中国大饭店2层 (6505 2266 ext. 36)
Beer Mania
Daily 3-8pm, two-forone draft Belgian.
103-104 Taiyue Hotel, 16
Sanlitun Nanlu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯南路
16 号 泰悦豪庭 103-104
6585 0786
The Big Smoke
Daily 4-7pm, 20 percent off
all cocktails, house wines and
beers.
57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区幸福村中路57号楼
利世楼 (6416 2683)
Blue Frog
Daily 4-8pm, buy one get one free all
drinks.
S4-30, 3/F, Building 4, Sanlitun Village
South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区8号楼
S10-31 (6417 4030)
Centro
Daily 5-8pm, two for one deals.
1/F, 1 Guanghua Lu, Shangri-la's Kerry Centre
Hotel Beijing, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光
华路香格里拉北京嘉里中心大酒店1层
(6561 8833 ext. 42)
Chill
Daily 4-8pm, RMB10 off any beer.
2 Andingmen Xidajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区安定门西大街2号 (6405 9575)
Cuju
Daily 6-9pm, buy one get one free
draft beer, mixed drinks and soft
drinks.
28 Xiguan Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城
区西管胡同28号 (6407 9782)
Enoterra
Mon-Fri 4-8pm, buy one glass of wine,
get one free.
D405, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园
D405 (5208 6076)
Eudora Station
Daily 4.30-7.30pm, buy one get one
free on all alcoholic drinks.
6 Fangyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区芳园西路6号 (6437 8331)
Flamme
cocktail, beers and wine by the glass
50% off from 3pm to 7:30pm daily.
S4-33, 3/F, Sanlitun Village, 19 Gongti Beilu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里
屯VILLAGE南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608)
Mai Bar
Mondays, buy two cocktails, get
one free.
40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng District
东城区北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125
2641)
Mao Mao Chong
Wednesday 7-11pm, cocktails RMB35.
12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou
Nan Dajie, Dongcheng District 东
城区交道口南大街板厂胡同
12号 (6405 5718)
Modo Urban Deli
66
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
Ladies’ nightS
阳区东直门外大街22-1号 (6416 5499)
4-7pm cocktails, house wine RMB25,
Beer RMB15.
S10-31, 3/F, Bldg 8, Sanlitun Village South,
19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三
里屯路19号三里屯Village南区8号楼S1031 (6415 7207)
The Stumble Inn
9pm-midnight, ladies get free mixed
drinks and RMB20 martinis.
S3-31, 3/F, Sanlitun Village South, 19 Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号
三里屯Village 3楼3层S3-31(6417 7794)
Mosto
6-7pm discounts on cocktails, wine
and beer.
Nali Patio 3rd Floor, 81 Sanlitun Beilu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北路81号
那里花园 (5208 6030)
The World of Suzie Wong’s
9pm-12am, free drinks.
Gate 8, West Gate of Chaoyang Park, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区朝阳公园西门8号 (6500
3377)
NOLA
Daily 3-8pm. Sun-Thu, half price on
Pabst Blue Ribbon, Tsingdao and all
cocktails including Daiquiris.
A-11 Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai Dajie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街秀
水南街A-11 (8563 6215)
Pinotage
Weekdays, 4-7pm, buy one, get one
free on house wines, sparkling and
draught beer.
Building 2, 2-105, 1st Floor Sanlitun SOHO, No.8
Gongtibeilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北路
8号三里屯Soho2号楼2-105 (5785 3538)
Inside Chuangyi Yuan, 3A Shunhuang Lu (near
BD flower market ), Sunhe Township, Chaoyang
District .朝阳区孙河乡顺黄路甲3号创意园内
(近北东花卉市场)(84595868)
Q Bar
Mon-Thurs 6-9pm, selected cocktails
40-45 percent off.
6/F, Eastern Hotel, 6 Baijiazhuang Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区百家庄6号 (6595 9239)
R Lounge
Daily 6-9pm, two for one standard
drinks and cocktails.
4/F, Renaissance Beijing Capital Hotel, 61
Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4层
(5863 8112)
Salud
Mon-Fri, 3-7pm, two-for-one Yanjing
beer or infused rum, buy two get one
free Draft Vedett.
66 Nanluoguxiang, Dongcheng District 东城
区南锣鼓巷66号 (6402 5086
Transit
Daily 6pm-7:30pm, two-for-one.
N4-36, Sanlitun Village North, 11 Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang District. 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里
屯Village北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)
Twilight
Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun,
RMB20 off cocktails.
0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39
Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室
(5900 5376)
Union Bar and Grille
Daily 4-8pm, discount beer & cocktails.
3/F, Sanlitun Village Bldg 5, 19 Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号院
三里屯Village 5号3层S6-31单元 (6415
9117)
Xiu
Mon-Thurs 6-9pm, buy one get one
free on selected drinks.
6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianguomenwai
Street 北京柏悦酒店, 建国门外大街2号6
楼 ( 8567 1108)
Zeta Bar
Daily 6-9pm, half price drinks.
Hilton Hotel, 1 Dongfang Lu, 东方路1号希尔
顿酒店(5865 5000 ext. 5050)
Vics
Free drinks for ladies until midnight.
Inside the north gate of the Workers’ Stadium,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北门内(5293
0333)
Thursday
Wednesday
Black Sun Bar
Women get 2-for-1 cocktails, guys get 30
percent off beer.
Chaoyang Park West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区朝阳公园西门 (6593 6909)
Elements
9pm-1am, free mojitos, champagne and
Cosmos.
58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工
体西门58号 (6551 2373)
Eudora Station
8pm-12am, ladies ordering food from
the ladies’ night menu receive free
drinks from the same menu.
6 Fangyuan Xi Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳
园西路6号 (6437 8331)
Four Corners
Buy two get one free martinis for
women.
7 Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城
区大石杯胡同7号 (6401 7797)
Haze
11pm-3am, free rosé and cocktails.
A101, Guanghua Lu SOHO, 22 Guanghua Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路22号 光华
路SOHO A101 (5900 6128)
Propaganda
All you can drink for RMB30.
100m north of the east gate of
Huaqing Jiayuan, Wudaokou, Haidian
District 海淀区
五道口华
清家园东
门向北100米
(8289 3991)
Q Mex
Free margaritas for
women.
4 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工体北路4号
(6585 3828)
Starfish
4-11pm, ladies enjoy 3
Kumamoto oysters with a glass
of Prosecco for RMB150.
22-1 Dongzhimen Outer
Street, Chaoyang District 朝
Bar Blu
Free cocktails for ladies until midnight.
4/F-6/F Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Hou Jie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯酒吧北街同
里4层-6层 (6417 4124)
Beer Mania
Free Belgian ice cream with every order
of two Lindeman beers.
103-104 Taiyue Hotel, 16 Sanlitun Nan lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯南路16号泰
悦豪庭103-104(6500 0559)
Hidden Lounge
9pm-12am, free drinks for ladies.
Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments,
Shuanghuayuan Nanlier Qu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区双花园南里二区, CBD总部公寓, 8号
楼101室(8772 1613)
Opus Terrace
5-8pm, ladies enjoy free cocktails; on
Fridays, its Bachelors Night, where chaps
get 50 percent off beer and burgers for
the same times.
Daily 4pm-1am, Sun bunch 12-4pm, Opus
Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区亮马桥路48号 (5695 8888)
Solutions
Free drinks for ladies all night long.
1/F, Bldg 12, Huaqing Jiayuan, Haidian District
海淀区五道口华清嘉园12号楼1层 (8586
3517)
XIU
Mon-Thurs 6-9pm, buy one get one free
on selected drinks.
6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2
Jianguomenwai Street 北京柏悦
酒店, 建国门外大街2号6楼 (
8567 1108)
Zeta Bar
9pm-late, head upstairs to the
“ladies’ only” section for free cocktails.
2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dongfang Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区1号希尔顿饭店2层(5865
5050)
Saturday
R Lounge
Selection of drinks for free all night.
61 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区61东三环中路(5863 8241)
BRunches
meal deals
Agua
Sat-Sun 12-3pm, aperitivo brunch with
choice of tapas, Spanish mains and
dessert for RMB198.
4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang
District朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园4
楼D308号 (5208 6188)
Agua
Mon-Fri noon-3 pm, Spanish-style
two course meal for RMB88 or three
courses for RMB99
4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang
District朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园4
楼D308号 (5208 6188)
Aroma
Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm, international
buffet starting at RMB518 plus 15 percent service charge.
Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 83A Jian Guo Road, China
Central Place, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国
路83甲 (5908 8161)
Colibri
Sat-Sun 9am-2pm, any dish from
brunch menu for RMB48, or add a cup
of coffee for RMB58.
LG51, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Sanlitun Village North,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三
里屯Village北区地下层51 (6417 0808)
Enoterra
Sat-Sun 11am-4pm, a la carte brunch
for RMB75-130. Free-flow sparkling
wine for an extra RMB80.
4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu 朝阳区三里
屯北路81号那里花园4楼D308号 (5208
6076)
Eudora Station
Sat-Sun 10am-3pm, breakfast buffet
with one main and free-flow juice or
coffee for RMB98.
Opposite Lido Palace, 6 Fangyuan Xi Lu.
Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西路6号
(6437 8331)
Feast
Sun, 11.30am-3pm, brunch buffet with
free-flow wine, beer, juices and soft
drinks for RMB428, or with free- flow
champagne for RMB488.
Sheraton Beijing Dongcheng, 36 North Third
Ring Road East, Dongcheng District 东城区北
三环36号 (5798 8908)
The Garden Court
Sun 11.30am-3pm until Dec 30,
Christmas brunch with festive international dishes for RMB488, or with freeflow champagne for RMB588. Prices
subject to 15 percent service charge.
St Regis Beijing, 21 Jianguomen Waidajie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街 21
号 (6460 6688)
Maison Boulud
Sat-Sun, 11am-4pm, a la carte set from
RMB128 (one course) to RMB288 (four
courses) plus 15 percent surcharge.
23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District
东城区前门东大街23号 (6559 9200)
The Rug
A la carte brunch menu offered daily
from 10.30am-5pm, ranging from
rmb48-RMB138.
1/F, Bldg 4, lishui jiayuan, Chaoyang
Gongyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4号楼1楼(8550
2722)
MoMo Cafe
Sun 11.30am-3pm. “Fast Casual”
brunch with free flow soft drinks and
juice for RMB288, or add champagne,
beer and wine for RMB388.
Courtyard by Beijing Marriott Northeast, 101
Jingmi Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区京迷路
101号 (5907 6658)
Pinotage
Opening special: Saturdays and
Sundays,
free flow on all house wines for
RMB150 from 11am-5pm.
Building 2, 2-105, 1st Floor Sanlitun SOHO, No.8
Gongtibeilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北
路8号三里屯Soho2号楼2-105 (5785 3538)
One East
Sun 12-3pm, American-style set lunch
from RMB188, plus DIY bloody mary
bar for an extra RMB98. Prices subject
to 15 percent surcharge.
2/F, Hilton Hotel Beijing, 1 Dongfang Lu, North
East Third Ring Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
东三环北路东方路1号北京希尔顿酒店2
层 (5865 5030)
Qi
Sun 11.30am-2pm, all you can eat dim
sum including one double boiled soup
for RMB288 per person. Add a bottle
of Dom Perignon for RMB1988 for two.
Ritz-Carlton Beijing Financial Street, 1 Jin Cheng
Fang Dong Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District 西城区
金城坊东金融街1号 (6601 6666)
Senses and Prego
Sunday 11.30am-3pm, Retrolicious
Champagne Brunch, international and
Asian specialties with free flow champagne, wines, cocktails, and juices for
RMB 458. prices subject to 15% service
charge.
The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B Financial
Street, Xicheng District 西城区金融大街乙9号
(6629 7810)
Seasonal Tastes
Sun 11.30am-3pm Unlimited buffet for
RMB428-498 per person plus 15 percent surcharge.
Westin Chaoyang., 7 North Dongsanhuan Road,
Chaoyang District朝阳区东三环北路7号
(5922 8880)
Sureño
Check out the new brunch menu
for Sunday lunch, 3 or 4 courses for
RMB298 or RMB328 with desserts,
Both include soft drinks and juices,
Champagne package is RMB200, cocktail package is RMB150. Prices subject
to 15 percent service charge.
Bldg 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区三里屯路11号1号楼 (6410 5240)
Sui Yuan
Sat-Sun and public holidays 10.30am2.30pm, unlimited dim sum for
RMB128 plus 15 percent surcharge.
Hilton Double Tree, 168 Guang’anmen
Waidajie, Xicheng District 西城区广安门外
大街168号 (6338 1999 ext. 1726)
Vasco’s
Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet
with free-flow champagne for RMB458
plus 15 percent service charge.
Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8 Wangfujing
Dongjie, Dongcheng District 东城区王府井
东街8号 (5812 8888 ext. 8411)
Yi House
International set menu for RMB308.
Grace Hotel, Bldg 2, 1 706 Hou Jie,
Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 Art District, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区
706后街1号 (6436 1818)
Get Listed!
Please send your venue details and
promotional information to
[email protected] for
consideration. Listing not guaranteed.
Alameda
Mon-Fri 11.30am-3pm, weekday lunch
with two courses for RMB78 or three
courses for RMB98.
Sanlitun Bei Jie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里
屯北街 (6417 8084)
Aria
Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm Three contemporary European courses paired with
coffee or tea for RMB198 with 15 percent
service charge.
L2, China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie
Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号
(6505 2266-36)
Bene Restaurant
Daily 11.30am-2pm. RMB98 includes
antipasto with main course, pizza or
pasta.
Sheraton Dongcheng, 36 Dongcheng Beilu,
Dongcheng District 东城区北三环路36号
(5798 8888)
Cafe Sambal
Nasi Campur Malaysian set: two meats
and vegetables each, varying daily.
With soup, appetiozer for RMB78.
Curry sets from RMB55-65
See Listings for details
Capital M
Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, locally-focused
lunch offering an appetizer, main
course, fresh squeezed juice and fruit
for RMB118. Menu changes every three
months.
3/F, 2 Qianmen Pedestrian Street, Dongcheng
District 东城区前门步行街2号3层 (6702
2727)
Cepe
Mon-Fri from 11.30am-2.30pm, antipasti or soup, choice of six mains
(pasta, meat, fish) and selection of desserts starting at RMB328/person.
Ritz-Carlton Financial Street, 1 Jin Cheng Fang
Dongjie, Xicheng District 西城区金融街金城坊
东街1号 (6601 6666)
Beijing Marriott Hotel
Daily 11.30-2pm, Complete with
dumplings,noodles,congee and dessert
favorites,including chilled fruit juice
or Chinese tea for RMB118. Sun and
Sat 11.30-2pm, Dim Sum with a lobster
and unlimited beer for only RMB168.
26A Xiao Yun Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区霄云路甲26号 北京海航大厦万豪酒店
(5927 8888)
Danieli’s
Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm, Choice of three
business menus including Italian appetizers, main courses and specialty
Italian desserts for RMB118-168 with
15 percent service charge.
21 Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District
朝阳区建国门外大街21号 (6460 6688)
Flamme
Every Tuesday 2-for-1 steak all day.
3/F, S4-33 Sanlitun Village, 19 Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯19号, 三里
屯Village南区S4-33 (6417 8608)
Le Cabernet
Mon-Fri 12-2.30pm, chef’s selection of
salad, main courses and homemade
ice creams for two for RMB180.
Novotel Beijing Peace Hotel, 3 Jinyu Hutong,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区金鱼胡同3号
(6512 8833)
Maison Boulud
Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm, business lunch
consists of three courses for RMB198
plus 15 percent service charge.
23 Qianmen Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东
城区前门东大街23号 (6559 9200)
Migas
Mon-Fri 12pm-3pm, two courses with
snack and dessert for RMB85. All options are seasonal.
6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯北街81号那里花园6
层 (5208 6061)
Pinotage
Mon-Fri 12pm-6pm, RMB78 for two
course set lunch, add dessert for
RMB25 and glass of wine for RMB25.
Building 2, 2-105, 1st Floor Sanlitun SOHO, No.8
Gongtibeilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北
路8号三里屯Soho2号楼2-105 (5785 3538)
Inside Chuangyi Yuan, 3A Shunhuang Lu
(near BD flower market ), Sunhe Township,
Chaoyang District .朝阳区孙河乡顺黄路甲3号
创意园内(近北东花卉市场)(84595868
Rumi
Mon-Fri, 11.30am-2.30pm, Buffet for
RMB88.
1-1 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工
体北路11号 (6467 2961)
Niajo
Mon-Fri 12-2.30pm, three course lunch
with a glass of wine, soft drinks or coffee for RMB98.
3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园三
层 (5208 6052)
One East
12-2.30pm, Mon-Fri. Two courses for
RMB128, or three courses for RMB138.
Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, North Dong
Sanhuan Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北
路东方路1号 ( 5865 5030 )
Oakwood Residence Beijing
Daily 12-2pm. Two courses for RMB92;
3 courses for RMB108. Changes weekly.
8 Dongzhimenwai Xiejie, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区东直门外斜街8号 (5995 2888)
Sureño
Mon-Fri & Sun, 12.-2.30p, lunch set
RMB188 + 15%
Bldg 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区三里屯路11号1号楼 (6410 5240)
S.T.A.Y Restaurant
Tuesday to Friday 11:30am-2:30pm Three
courses including coffee and tea for
RMB388/person with 15 percent service charge.
Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel, 29
Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian District 海淀区紫竹
院路29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 22116572)
Taverna
Daily 11am-2.30pm. Two courses and
coffee/ tea for RMB78. Add a glass of
wine for RMB30 or dessert for RMB20.
Courtyard 4 ,Gongti Bei;u, Chaoyang District朝阳
区工体北路4号院 (6501 8882)
Transit
Daily 12pm-2.30pm. Choice of appetizers, mains, rice or noodles with dessert
for RMB88.
N4-36/37 Sanlitun Village North, 11 Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三
里屯VILLAGE北区N4-36/37 (6417 9090)
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
67
events
CITY SCENEs
A spectacular weekend saw the Benelux Chamber of Commerce hold their annual BenCham/Hoegaarden Regatta at Qinhuangdao’s Beijing Sailing Center, where various folks had
a grand old time sailing the China seas, while enjoying good food and great fun, courtesy
of Hoegaarden beer, IEE, Renaissance Hotels, and the Sweet Belgium Bakery. During the
day, sailors enjoyed snacks – including great-tasting pastries – right next to the docks, and
received training on how to sail the damn things from seasoned instructors at the center.
Oceans Sports Marketing held Beijing’s 1st annual Chambers of
Commerce Cup football tournament at Dulwich School, where
various embassies and business types got together and played
football for the love of it (and bragging rights).
68
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
The verdant green lawns of the Tang Polo Club played host to
the Copa De Polo República Argentina, in collaboration with the
Argentinian embassy. The home side reigned supreme, pictured
above receiving the cup from the ambassador himself.
On September 18th, The GTC Residence Beijing
held a party for the residents of their service
apartments.
The Hilton
Beijing’s Zeta Bar
brought back
their annual
pole-dancing
competition
featuring athletic
talents from
the Luolan Pole
Dancing School.
BeijingCream.com’s Charity ChugOff raised RMB5,000 for Magic
Hospital at Great Leap Brewpub – it
was won by ‘Colin’ and ‘Tiggi.’
September saw NFL China bring in their first Home Field concept, where Here comes the bride (or two): the Tianjin St. Regis Hotel hosted a “Two
families could learn to play America’s favorite bone-crunching pastime
Trees of Love” wedding show. Good timing – October is the season for it.
from some of the League’s famous alumni in person.
Oktoberfest was in full blast at the Crowne Plaza Beijing Park View Wuzhou,
where people enjoyed limbo and chicken dancing, German music, and of
course, copious amounts of beer.
Cicada brought Heineken’s popular Green Room concept to
Beijing – and with it, celebrated DJ Alex from Tokyo (NYC)
and VJ Hajime (TYO) on the live visuals.
Social website Tingdong.cn launched their first Beijing Mid-Autumn
IQAir Sponsored a Beijing Golf Club Weekly Event where people who
Music Festival at Worker’s Stadium, which featured superstar acts Far
hit a Hole in One had a chance to win a IQAir air purifier.
East Movement, Dash Berlin, with international DJ Hardwell headlining. The lucky man (extremely lucky) of the day was Palle Laurits Jensen.
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
69
LISTINGS
Expensive...................................¥
Expense Account ....................¥¥
Recommended .........................*
Top Ten ....................................**
Win a weekend
brunch voucher for
two at Agua. Email
[email protected], ‘Agua’
RESTAURANTS
THE HOT ONE HUNDRED
About This guide represents our editors’ top
100 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing
advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) have been
personally reviewed by our experts, and
scored according to the cuisine, experience
and affordability.
29 Grill (Steak) *
Top-notch steak, along with just about every other cut of meat found in the barnyard
in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca.
// Tues-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm. 3/F Corad
Beijing, 29 Dongsanhuan Beilu. Chaoyang
District 朝阳区东三环北路9号1层 (6584 6270)
OPEN DOOR
Agua
Brunch, Spanish style
Join Agua on the weekend for their fabulous three-course Aperitivo
Brunch. Start with a mouth-watering range of tapas, like Piquillo Peppers
Stuffed with Seafood, Spanish Tuna Tataki or Octopus Carpaccio with
Smoked Paprika. Mains include Pork Belly and Wagyu Short Rib, but be
sure to leave room for their excellent Passion Fruit Medley – a highlight of
the dessert menu. Fantastic value at RMB198.
// Weekends 12-3pm, 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu 三里屯北路81号那里花园4层
(5208 6188)
Ai Jiang Shan (Korean)
This upscale seafood restaurant proves that
chargrill and composure can go together.
Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch is an absolute
bargain.
// Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until
9.30pm. 5/F, LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12
Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区建国门外大街乙12号双子座大厦东塔5
层 (51096036/6037, for other locations visit
http://www.aijiangshan.com)
Alameda (Contemporary Western) *
Although styled as Brazilian, this laidback
eatery is a 1,000 miles from the frenetic
energy of the city’s Brazilian bar and grills.
With floor-to-ceiling glass interiors and
smart minimalist decor, Alameda is one of
the best places to while away a weekend.
The mushroom and shiitake white-wine
risotto is also a must-try. Superb value.
// Daily noon-3pm, 6-10.30pm, Sanlitun Beijie
(beside the Nali Mall), Chaoyang District
朝阳区三里屯北街(6417 8084)
lings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under
RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao
silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian
options and authentic Sichuan food.
// Daily 11am-10pm. North of 6 Maizidian Jie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧
(6586 4967)
Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) *
Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not
here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact,
meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the
Piedmont wine it is named after.
// Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz
Carlton Hotel, China Central Place, 83A
Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国路甲
83号华贸中心丽思卡尔顿酒店内 (5908 8151) Beiluo Bread Bar (Cafés)
This local hipster café favorite offers inhouse baked bread and sandwiches but
we usually go for the hand-pulled noodles.
Gets cozy at night.
// Tue-Sun 12-10pm. 70A Beiluoguxiang,
Dongcheng District 东城区北锣鼓巷甲70号(近
南锣鼓巷)(8408 3069)
Bellagio (Taiwanese)
Where else can you carve through mountainous shaved ice desserts and suck down
creamy bubble teas at 5am? A favorite
among the city’s hip and young, this
swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is best
enjoyed long after dark.
// 6 Gongti xilu Chaoyang District 6 号 工体西
路(6551 3533) See www.bellagiocafe.com.cn
for more locations
Bene ¥(Italian) *
Chef Ricci will have you singing like a
soprano with his pork ravioli and prizewinning tiramisu. Excellent set menus
(RMB588) and extensive wine selection.
// Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton
Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring
Road, Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36
号(5798 8995)
The Big Smoke (American)
Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and
upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full
menu evenings-only (also delivers rotisserie
chicken via Uncle Otis).
// Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am10pm. First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸福村中路 57号楼
利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268,www.uncle-otis.
com)
Biteapitta (Middle Eastern) *
Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel)
and RMB58 kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta
has the Middle-East mid-range market all
wrapped up in a fluffy pitta.
// Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli
Studio, Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District
朝阳区三里屯后街同里2层 (6467 2961)
OPEN DOOR
Scarlett
Win a 300RMB
voucher for Scarlett.
Email prizes@
urbanatomy.com,
‘Scarlett’
Hearty bistro cuisine
Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant sits inside so-hip-its–name-is-onlyone-letter Hotel G. Head chef Emmanuel has given their new menu
a distinctly Gallic flavor, with French favorites like Oysters (RMB108),
Braised Rabbit (RMB68) and the classic dessert Mille-Feuille (RMB58):
puff pastry layered with vanilla filling. And of course it wouldn’t be
French cuisine without a large selection of cold cuts, cheese and wine
– all of which Scarlett offers par excellence.
// Daily 6:30am-1am Scarlett at Hotel G, No.A7 Gongtixilu Chaoyang, 朝阳区工体
西路甲7号 (6552 3600)
Agua ¥ (Spanish)
Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish
invasion, Agua excels with reasonably priced
classics like suckling pig, chorizo and jamon.
// Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali
Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
三里屯路81号那里花园 (5208 6188)
Aria ¥¥ (European) *
A gold standard of opulence and, at RMB1,100
for the Wagyu beef and starters around
RMB150, the prices reflect that. In-house
sommeliers help tailor your meal perfectly.
// Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight;
Sat-Sun 6-10pm. Second floor, China World
Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号中国大饭店2层
(6505 0828)
Back Alley Bistro (Contemporary Western)
There’s not enough of this in Beijing: a cozy
joint offering top-notch ‘California-style’
cuisine at bang-on price points. A fresh,
revolving menu has everything from burgers (RMB 45/65) to braised oxtail (RMB138)
to seared scallops (RMB148).
// Tues-Sun 11am-2.30pm, 5-11pm. West side
of Jiezuo Dasha, Xingfucun Zhonglu (next to
Frost Nails), Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸福村中
路(Frost旁边)(6417 5430)
Baoyuan Jiaoziwu (Chinese regional)
Famous for their rainbow of dyed dump-
70
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
Blue Frog (American)
This Shanghai hamburger franchise has
been keeping Americans in China obese
since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is
always packed.
// Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3,
S4 Tower, 81 Sanlitun Village, Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路三里屯
Village三层S4 (6417 4030, for other branches
see www.bluefrog.com.cn)
Brasserie Flo ¥ ¥ (French) *
Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass
fittings establish the Parisian bona fides;
dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48
each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm.
The grandeur is matched only by the service, and the prices reflect the authenticity
of the experience.
// Daily 11am-midnight. 18 Xiaoyun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路18号 (6595
5135, www.flo.cn/brasserie/restaurants/
beijing)
Café Ricci (Contemporary Western)
An excellent example of how Italian sensibilities can meld peaceably into a Chinese
context, Ricci offers a range of fusion creations, like Sichuan spicy-chicken focaccia
(RMB45) and a spicy mocha coffee. It’s a
paradise for those with a sweet tooth, too.
// Daily 8am-9.30pm 1/F, Keji Dasha
Tower D, Bldg 8, Tsinghua Science Park, 1
Zhongguancun Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区中关村东路1号清华科技园8号楼科技大厦D
座1层 (8215 8826 http://riccicafe.com)
Capital M (Contemporary Western) **
The Art Deco interior, swish staff and
breathtaking views over the archery towers
from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of
al-fresco dining, with world-class modern
European stylings and deliciously posh
afternoon tea.
// Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen
Buxingjie, Chongwen District 东城区前门步
行街2号3层 (6702 2727, www.m-restaurantgroup.com/capitalm/home.html)
Café Zarah (Cafés)
Red armchairs, table candles and a matching
Gaggia machine harmonize the creamy,
minimalist interior of this cafe, popular with
young professionals. The Austrian-style
breakfast sets here are the real deal, while
Zarah’s coffee also trumps just about any
in town.
// Daily 9.30am-midnight 42 Gulou Dongdajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街42号
(8403 9807)
Colibri (Cafés)
Its cheery, brightly lit veneer, spacious
seating and wide tables make it the
darling of the Macbook freelancer crowd.
While it serves a variety of standard café
fare, the main attraction are its wide
array of colorful delicious, generously
frosted,freshly-baked cupcakes.
// Sanlitun Village North11 Sanlitun Lu, Level
LG51 (bet. Dongzhimennei Dajie & Gongti Bei
Lu) 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯Village北区LG
层51号 (6417 0808)
Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) *
Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the
moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim
restaurant. Eastern European and Central
Asian influences are evident throughout,
with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes
livening up traditional Chinese favorites.
// 弯弯月亮 16 Dongsi Liutiao 东四六条16号
(6400-5281)
Da Dong (Chinese, Peking duck) *
Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da
Dong guarantees slick carvings of Beijingstyle roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The venue’s a class act and the plum
sauce is hard to follow.
// Daily 11am-10pm. No.22 Dongsishitiao,
Dongcheng District 22号 东四十条甲 (5169
0328 See www.dadongdadong.com for more
locations Daily 11am-10pm)
Cafe Sambal (SE Asian)
When it comes to Malay-style food in a
hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly,
it’s something of a niche category, but then
so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitanstyle chicken is pricey, but worth it.
// Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong
(just east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng District
西城区豆腐池胡同43号 旧鼓楼大街往东走
(6400 4875)
Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex)
Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+
imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the
walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a
bite of the custardy flan.
//Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am
to 2am, S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Village, 19
Sanlitun Lu,Chaoyang District, 朝阳区三里屯路
19号三里屯Village南区(6416 5212)
Da Gui (Chinese Guizhou)
Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nestled into a charming traditional alleyway.
Munch happily into pickled greens and
don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black
sesame balls. They’re sensational.
// Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm. 69 Daxing
Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng District 东城
区交道口大兴胡同69号 (6407 1800)
Dali Courtyard (Chinese Yunnan) *
If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll
have to trust the staff: there’s no menu,
it all just arrives in an intimate courtyard
setting. The price (RMB120pp) matches the
rustic ingredients.
// Daily Midday-2pm; 6-10.30pm. Gulou Dong
Dajie, 67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng
District 东城区鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号
(8404 1430)
Cepe ¥ (Italian)
In a city inundated with Italian offerings,
Cepe manages to stand out thanks to it’s
attention to the smallest detail – everything
from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham
is import quality, and the wine is superb.
Consider it the culinary equivalent of a
finely tailored suit.
// Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The
Ritz-Carlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang
Dongjie, Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District
西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街丽思卡顿酒店
大堂 (6601 6666)
Camões Portuguese Restaurant (Portuguese)
Camões is a restaurant named after Luís Vaz
de Camões, Portugal’s greatest poet who was
also a philosopher, adventurer, and a romantic
writer. All of their wines and key ingredients
are imported from Portugal. The dishes are
exquisitely prepared under the direction of
their native chef.
// Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 1-2/F,
Legendale Hotel, 92 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng
District 东城区金宝街励骏酒店一层 (8511 3388)
Chef Too ¥ (Contemporary Western)
With its crisp white tablecloths and service,
this upscale New York diner serves up some
of the classiest burgers in town.
// Tue-Fri 11am-1pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-3pm;
Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10pm. Opposite the West
gate, Chaoyang Park, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
朝阳公园西门 (6591 8676)
Chuan Ban (Chinese Sichuan) *
This bright, modestly decorated dining hall
is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan
restaurant. There are classics like lazi ji
(diced chicken buried under a mountain of
scorched peppers) and Kung Pao chicken.
The mashed potato with pickled cabbage
(suancai tudouni, RMB 12) takes the edge
off dishes like the spicy bacon (huiguo
larou, RMB 18) and the chilli-meets-green
pesto flavor of the “Tingle Pepper Chicken”
(Jiaoma Ji, RMB 22) – follow the star ratings
to gauge the burn.
// Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.509.30pm; Sat-Sun 7am-10pm 5 Gongyuan
Toutiao, Jianguomennei Dajie, Dongcheng
District 东城区建国门内贡院头条5号 (6512
2277, ext. 6101)
Din Tai Fung ¥ (Shanghainese)
This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken
Hom enough to call it one of the best 10
eateries in the world, back in 1993. Well,
expect high standards and a relaxed,
family-style setting at the least. Famous
for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao
or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s
always a long wait.
// 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm Weekends
11.30am-10pm. Yu Yang Branch (渔阳店): 24
Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, Chaoyang District,
Beijing 朝阳区新源西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店)
(6462 4502), Shin Kong Place Branch (新光店):
6/F, Shin Kong Place, China Center, 87 Jianguo
Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing 朝阳区建
国路87号新光天地6楼D6001号 (西大望路口)
(6533 1536), Parkview Green Branch (芳草地
店): LG2-20,B2 Floor, No.9, Dongdaqiao Road,
Chaoyang District,Beijing 朝阳区东大桥路9号
侨福芳草地大厦LG2楼 (近世贸天阶(8562 6583),
Xidan Branch (西单店): F1&B1, Grand Pacific
Mall No.133 Xidan North St.: Xicheng District,
Beijing 西城区西单北大街133号君太百货B1
楼 (近西单大悦城) (6615 9028), Modern Plaza
Branch (当代店): 7th Floor, Modern Plaza,
No.40 Zhongguancun St., Haidian District,
Beijing 海淀区中关村大街40号当代商城7楼 (人
民大学对面) (6269 6726)
Duck de Chine ¥ (Chinese, Peking duck) *
Good duck is meant to show your guests
how wonderful you are, as much as the
food. Duck De Chine does that in spades,
with fantastic presentation of its crispy,
succulent duck (RMB188). Daily 11.30am2.30pm; 6-10.30pm. Courtyard 4, 1949
// The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881)
Win a voucher for a
seafood dinner for
two at Greenfish.
Email [email protected], ‘Qi’
OPEN DOOR
Qi – The Ritz Carlton
Beijing, Financial Street
Seven cuisines under one roof
If you find yourself in need of vitals in West Beijing’s Financial District look
no further than Qi at The Ritz-Carlton for some of the city’s most delicious
and healthy Chinese cuisine. Their lunch menu offers highlights from every
corner of China, such as Matsutake Mushroom Soup with Chinese Herb
and Sea Whelk (RMB198), Pan-Fried Wagyu Beef Steak with Black Pepper
(RMB688/per person) or a deliciously sweet Almond Tea with Lily and Egg
White for dessert (RMB68).
// Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10:30pm, The Ritz-Carlton Beijing, Financial Street,
1 Jin Cheng Fang Street East Financial Street, Xicheng District, 西城区金城坊东街1号
(6601 6666)
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
71
listings
Ding Ding Xiang (Chinese hot pot) *
This institution continues to expand, with
a number of branches now open. Classier
than most hot-pot joints, this features
a spacious dining room of sweaty-faced
patrons enjoying high-grade huo guo in
their own individual pot. If you have a big
table, you get your own server. The delicious sesame sauce (the recipe is a closely
guarded secret) is a Beijing classic.
// Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, Yuanjia International
Apartments, Dongzhimenwai, Dongzhong Jie
(opposite East Gate Plaza), Dongcheng District
东城区东直门外东中街东环广场对面元嘉国际
公寓2层 (6417 9289, for other locations visit
www.dingdingxiang.com.cn)
Drei Kronen 1308 (German) *
Authentic (in as much as any brauhaus
with a Filipino cover band can be) displays
of armour and brewing kits draw regular
evening crowds for the superb pork
knuckle (RMB148) and heavy-duty helles
(pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed
on-site, RMB48-108).
// Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View,
Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体
东路中国红街5号楼1层(6503 5555)
Element Fresh (Contemporary Western)
Another import from Shanggers, this is
boutique salads-and-sandwich lunching,
with somewhat questionable price tags.
The recent revamp also affected the latter.
// Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am11pm. 833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Village
South, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区8号楼833
(6417 1318)
Ellingen Brauhaus (German)
Dead-on authenticity in the unlikely
environs of Financial Street means a spacious beer hall, and big shareable plates
of sausage, salad and the specialty, pork
cheeks in red-wine sauce (RMB117). Best of
all, no schlepping to Sanlitun.
// Mon-Fri 11am-12am. B114-115, 2
Jinchengfang Jie, Financial Street, Xicheng
District, Xicheng District 西城区西城区金城坊
街2号金融街购物中心B114-115号 (157 1284
4602)
Eudora Station
No need to mind the doors – this Lido
pitstop’s longevity tells you all you need
to know. An American-style restaurant-bar,
it caters comfortably for the local scene
with a pool table, sports TV, rooftop deck,
patio – did we mention the pool? Really,
this place is solid: great beer selection and
classic pub grub. Regular live bands keep
the weekends swinging.
// Daily, 11am-2am. 6 Fangyuan Xilu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西路6号 (6437
8331, www.eudorastation.com)
Flamme (Contemporary Western) *
Expensive steaks are now invading Beijing.
Flamme (pronounced ‘Flom,’ apparently)
remains top value, however, especially on
2-4-1 Tuesdays, while bar staff maintain an
eclectic (and genuinely exciting) cocktail
menu.
// Daily 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thur; 11am-11pm
Fri-Sat. S4-33, Third Floor, Village South, 19
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯
路19号三里屯VILLAGE南区3层S4-33室 (6417
8608)
Four Corners (SE Asian)
Chef Jun Trinh took a break from his
celebrity TV work to host this part-Vietnamese venue, serving up steaming bowls
of pho with zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a
great bar.
// Daily 11am-midnight. 27 Dashibei Hutong
(near west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng
District 西城区大石碑胡同27号烟袋斜街西口附
近)((6401 7797)
Ganges (Indian)
Conveniently located above popular
Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid
Indian curry house provides the perfect
post-match culinary accompaniment. Or
put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving
after eight pints of beer.
// Daily 11am to 10.30pm. 2nd Floor, 28
Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang District
Dongzhimen Branch: 朝阳区东直门外大街28号
2层 (6417-0900) Sanlitun Branch: 朝阳区工体北
路13号世贸百货1号楼2楼202室 (64160181)
See www.ganges-restaurant.com/en/ for more
locations.
Green T (Contemporary Chinese)
Although the inspiration is ‘Tang Dynasty
bathhouse,’ the effect is more ‘Whoah.’ An
indoor tea bath occupies a slate-tiled space,
scattered with artistic curios (a full-size
horse doubles as a lamp). Add vegetable
allotment, outdoor Jacuzzi, wooden trestle
table and 1,500-sqm villa filled with mannequins, mirrors and beds and you get the
sense that anything could happen (and
does). The space has a design award by
Wallpaper* magazine and came third in
72
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
the Daily Meal’s Top 101 Asian restaurants.
We haven’t even mentioned the teas, spa
routines and massage therapies, have we?
// Daily 11.30am-11.30pm. 318 Hegezhuang
Village, Cuigezhuang, Chaoyang District朝阳
区崔各庄乡合各庄村318号 (8456 4922 Ext 8,
136 0113 7132, 136 0113 7232; www.green-thouse.com)
Grill 79 (Contemporary Western) *
With views this good, Grill 79 would probably make it onto the list even if the food
was terrible. It’s something of a bonus
then that the kitchen is superb, and supported by one of the most extensive wine
lists in town.
// Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm.
79/F, China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1
Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区建国门外大街1号国贸大酒店79楼 (6505 2299
ext 6424)
Haidilao (Chinese hot pot)
Hot pot in China is like religion; everyone’s
got their own brand. Either way, the raw
meats and vegetables, cooked communally,
is divine, and the outstanding customer
service makes Haidilao a fitting church
// Daily, 24 hours. 2A Baijiazhuang Lu (beside
No. 80 Middle School), Chaoyang District 朝
阳区白家庄路甲2号 (八十中学西侧)(6595 2982,
for other locations visit http://www.haidilaohuoguo.com)
Hatsune ¥ (Japanese)
Less a Japanese than a California roll joint,
Hatsune is now an old favorite among the
sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing set, though
less so among sashimi purists.
// Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm 2/F,
Heqiao Bldg C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区光华路甲8号和乔大厦C座2层
(6581 3939)
Home Plate BBQ (American) *
Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the
popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker
barbecue joint, that blossoms in the sunny
months. Pulled-pork sandwiches are the
favorites, followed by baby-back rib racks,
but lesser dishes like the rib tips, sides
and burgers are just as good. Beer and
bourbons are taken care of, too.
// Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard
(20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first
right), Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院
过霄云路路口,往北走20米,到第一个路口右转
(5128 5584)
Ibn Battouta (African)
Hidden away in the depths of Gongti, this
charming little Moroccan eatery serves up
superbly authentic north Africa fare at a
modest price. Known for its excellent, attentive service, and cosy atmosphere.
// Daily 11.30am-3pm, 6-10pm. 4-103, China
View, 2 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区工体东路2号中国红街大厦4-103(8587 1255,
139 1141 5052)
Inagiku (Japanese)
This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s
oldest and most celebrated restaurants is
as near to perfection as you’re likely to find.
Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, the
handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB 80) is not to
be missed.
// Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm. Rm 315, 3/F,
Park Life, Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai
Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街2
号银泰中心悦生活3层315室 (8517 2838)
Jardin de Jade Jasmine-tea Smoked Duck
(RMB78), Xiaolongbao dumplings (RMB
22), Eight Treasure Rice (Babao Fan, RMB
22) and more. Particularly convivial on the
weekends with Cantonese families gathering for dim-sum feasts.
// Daily 11am-10.30pm Bldg 6, Jiqingli,
Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District
朝阳区朝外大街吉庆里6号楼 (6552 8688, for
other locations visit www.jade388.com/su/
index.aspx)
La Dolce Vita (Italian)
This long-standing, quality, and refreshingly
unpretentious Italian restaurant is a popular choice for young families. Wholesome
pasta dishes, well-crafted wood-fired pizzas
and a great range of dessert options come
as standard.
// Daily 10.30am-10.30pm, 8 Bei Xindong Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路北段8号 (6468
2894)
La Pizza (Italian)
At the higher echelon of Beijing pizzeria is
this Sanlitun goldfish bowl with a woodfired oven and Neapolitan manners.
// Daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 1/F, 3.3 Mall,
33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里
屯路33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 5582)
Le Little Saigon (SE Asian)
Despite its odd obsession with Frenchoccupied South East Asia, this colonialthemed eatery is saved by its excellent beef
pho, select wine lists, and stunning rooftop
views. It’s a little bit good.
// Daily 11.30-midnight 141 Jiugulou Dajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区旧鼓楼大街141号
(6401 8465)
The Local (American)
This does exactly what it says on the tin:
Some of the best Happy Hour deals and
pub grub the Sanlitun bar district has to
offer. The staff are friendly, the barstaff are
skilled at cocktails and they even have a
24-hour delivery service.
// Daily 6pm-2am. 4 Gongti Bei Lu (opposite
1949 The Hidden City), Chaoyang District 朝阳
区工体北路4号院机电研究院内 (6591 9525)
Little Fat Sheep (Chinese hot pot) *
Ever-popular Mongolian-style hotpot restaurant franchise, but don’t let the chain’s
adorable sheep mascot fool you. Xi Yang
Yang has world domination in mind. With
branches springing up across the States,
it’s hard to contend with the quality on
offer. Best experienced with your own loud,
drunken flock.
// 209 Dongzhimennei Dajie, Dongcheng
District 东城区东直门内大街209号 (8400 1669
See www.littlesheephotpot.com for more locations and hours.)
Lost Heaven ¥ (Chinese / SE Asian)
An emphasis on Yunnan characterises this
menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia
passage, with a grandiose yet
dark teak interior.
// Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till
1am). Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区前门东大街23号
(8516 2698)
Luce ¥ (contemporary Italian)
Low key and stylish, this compact Italian
eatery earns its place on the list thanks to
a combination of inventive menu options
(arugula salad with crab and orange) and
attentive wait staff. A rooftop terrance is
great for summer views over Gulou.
// Sun-Thu 12pm-2am; Fri-Sat 12pm-4am. 138
Jiugulou Daijie, Dongcheng District 东城区旧
鼓楼大街138号 (8402 4417)
Maison Boulud ¥ ¥ (French) **
The heavy hitter. This French bistro par
excellence, located in the former Legation
Quarter, earns its spot with food that regularly garners praise from all clientele.
// Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm, 6-10pm; Sat-Sun
(brunch) 11am-4pm, 6-10pm. Ch’ien Men 23,
23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District
东城区前门东大街23号 (6559 9200)
Indian Kitchen (Indian) *
The go-to curry house among Beijing’s
homesick Indian community, this everpopular no-nonsense friendly restaurant
has built up a solid reputation thanks to its
wide range of quality dishes served up at
affordable prices. The flavorful Rogan Josh
is a particular favorite.
// Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-11pm . 2/F, 2
Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三
里屯北小街2号2楼 (6462 7255)
Jade Garden (Chinese Shanghainese)
Southern cuisine in a sophisticated setting.
Makye Ame (Tibetan)
Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine
consists of more than just yak-butter tea,
the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain
serves up nomadic classics such as curried
potatoes and roast lamb. The original cosy
Xiushui location is great for winter.
// Daily 10-midnight, 11A Xiushui Nanjie,
Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国
门外秀水南街甲11号, (6506 9616
Mercante ¥ (Italian) *
Old World family charm in an intimate
hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally,
service) slows with a rustic menu from Bologna offering an assortment of homemade
pastas and seasonal mains.
// Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang
Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区方砖厂胡同
4号 (8402 5098)
Middle 8th Restaurant 中八楼 (Yunnan) *
Make room for the mushrooms – especially the Kungpao – at this busy chain. Hip
and slightly swanky, without being pretentious, this is a celebration of all things
‘south of the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried
worms, or “crossing-the-bridge” noodles,
beef jerky-style yak meat and fresh, wild
herbs galore.
// Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South Tower,
The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587
1431, for other locations visit www.middle8th.com)
Migas ¥ (Spanish) *
The boys at Migas have turned a concept
bar into a thriving Mediterranean restaurant, bar and party venue, and one of
summer’s rooftop destinations.
// Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio,
81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里
屯路81号那里花园6层 (5208 6061)
Mio (Italian) ¥¥
Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with
a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight
to your table. Chef Marco Calenzo crafts
a superb squash tortellini by hand, and
pampers diners with desserts like the
deconstructed tiramisu.
//Daily, lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, dinner
5:30pm -10:30pm Four Seasons Hotel, 48
Liang Ma Qiao Road, Chaoyang District, 北京四
季酒店 亮马桥路48号, 朝阳区(5695 8888)
Missa (Contemporary Western) *
Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of
meat or the long list of expertly made and
creative cocktails going down your gullet,
you can’t really go wrong at this refined
relaxed lounge like restaurant. Highly
recommended
// Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun
Village North, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯
Village北区3号楼3层32-33 (137 1851 7917)
Modo Urban Deli
(Contemporary Western)*
Yates wine lodge this is not. Unconventional and great fun, this compact eatery
was designed around an ever-changing
selection of fine wines. Serves up fresh
tapas style food and original finger foods.
The luxury sandwiches are fantastic for
picnics, with the smoked salmon and the
Cuban (RMB68), complete with crispy pork
belly, is one of the best sarnies ever.
// Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm.
3/F, Sanlitun Village South(close to Element
Fresh), 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区3楼(近
新元素)
Moment Café (Cafés)
We would like to find out which embassy
Moment Café is stealing their sandwiches
from. There’s no way the crepes, coffee and
panini here can be this good at this cheap
a price legally.
// Daily 10.30am-11pm. B1-525, Sanlitun Soho,
Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北
路三里屯Soho B1-525 (8590 0724)
Morton’s of Chicago ¥¥ (American) *
Meat so tender the knife falls through it:
ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide
praise. Expensive, but where else are you
going to get steak this good? (Try the
RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash)
// Mon-Sat 5-11pm, Sun 5-10pm. 2/F, Regent
Hotel, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District 东城
区金宝街99号丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777)
Mosto ¥(Contemporary Western)
A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot,
thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for
modernising South American-style dishes
like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen.
// Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat
noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路
81号那里花园3层 (5208 6030)
Mr Shi’s Dumplings (Chinese Beijing) *
The ultimate in Beijing-style dumplings,
they really don’t come better than this. Find
it and you’ll never go elsewhere.
// 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同
74号 (8405 0399, 131 6100 3826)
Najia Xiaoguan (Chinese)
A hugely popular Manchu restaurant,
first opened by an emperor’s doctor, you
choose your dishes from a carved wooden
tray: 18-hour stewed huang tanzi, fatty
ox hoof,crispy fried shrimp, chicken with
walnut. Reservations are required to get
a place in this two-storey, quintessentially
Imperial China restaurant.
// Daily 1130am-10pm. 10 Yonganli (south
of the LG Twin Towers, west of 119 Middle
School), Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区建国门外大街永安里10号(双子
座大厦南侧, 119中学西侧)(6567 3663, 6568
6553)
Ramyun is among the best in Beijing, while
the Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too
good to be true.
// Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong,
Dongcheng District 东城区香饵胡同128-1号
(5741 5753)
Niajo ¥ (Spanish)*
Order the paella (their star dish) together
with some tapas and be automatically
transported to Spain. With homely Mediterranean influences and a charming management, Niajo is a prefect option to enjoy a
pleasant meal at the heart of Sanlitun. Pro
tip: a fantastic set-lunch deal is also offered.
// Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路
81号那里花园3层 (5208 6052)
NOLA (American)
N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in
the leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried
chicken, jambalaya and decent-enough
po’boys – yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks,
craft beers and cocktail also make NOLA
a popular watering hole. Great service
comes as standard.
// Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm.
11A Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
秀水南街11号 (8563 6215)
Pinotage ¥ (South African) *
A seasonal blend of Dutch, English
and regional African influences, this
contemporary and stylish eatery has an
impressive selection of fine import-quality
meats, and wines to match. The traditional
borewor ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is
tender and sweet, while the red-wine pork
tenderloin (RMB120) makes the trip out to
Shunyi worth it.
// Building 2, 2-105, 1st Floor Sanlitun SOHO,
8 Gongtibeilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北
路8号三里屯soho2号楼2-105 (5785 3538/5785
3539) Mon - Fri. 11.30am - 2pm
5.30pm - 9pm Sat - Sun 11am - 10pm Bar
open. Mon to Sun. 4pm - 12am Inside
Chuangyi Yuan, 3A Shunhuang Lu (near BD
flower market ), Sunhe Township, Chaoyang
District .朝阳区孙河乡顺黄路甲3号创意园内(近
北东花卉市场)(84595868)
Ricci Café (Cafés)
An excellent example of how Italian sensibilities can meld peaceably into a Chinese
context, Ricci offers a range of fusion creations, like Sichuan spicy-chicken focaccia
(RMB45) and Sichuan spicy mocha coffee.
It’s a paradise for sweet-toothed folk, too.
// Daily 8am-9.30pm 1/F, Keji Dasha
Tower D, Bldg 8, Tsinghua Science Park, 1
Zhongguancun Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区中关村东路1号清华科技园8号楼科技大厦D
座1层 (8215 8826 http://riccicafe.com)
Rumi (Middle Eastern)
Worlds away from the filth of nearby dirty
Bar Street, Rumi dishes out plentiful helpings of traditional Persian stews and tasty
kebabs. Try the juicy Chicken Shish kebab,
the tastier cousin to cheap chuan’r.
// Daily 11.30am-12am, Gongti Beilu and Third
Ring Road 工体北路和三环内,兆龙饭店对面
(8454 3838)
Saveurs de Coree (Korean)
This upmarket Korean bistro has undergone
several changes in recent years, not least
its move away from the hipper-than-thou
confines of Nanluguxiang. Fortunately,
the menu remains largely intact. The Shin
S.T.A.Y. (French)
Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred
chef Alléno Yannick’s back-to-basics kitchen
concept, managed by the youthful team
of Maxime Gilbert as ‘Chef de Cuisine’
executing the quarterly menus, and Florian
Couteau working the ‘pastry library.’ Classic
dishes usually include dishes such as steak,
foie gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and
grill for simple fine-dining.
// Daily 11:30am -2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm;
Sundays 11am- 4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing,
Level 1, 29 Zizhuyuan Road, Beijing 紫竹院路29
号北京香格里拉饭店 (6841 2211, Ext. 6727)
Susu (SE Asian)
The first step is finding it. Follow that up
with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, extensive wine list and a listing of top-notch
Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches,
stews, soups and la Vong fish.
// Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang
Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng District 东城区钱
粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699)
Sherpa’s (Delivery)
OK. It is not technically a restaurant but
Sherpa’s is still an essential service: Your favourite restaurants delivered to you. Across
three cities, Beijing, Shanghai and Suzhou:
258 restaurants. 75,817 dishes ready to
order. Have whatever you want delivered
fast and fresh.
// www.sherpa.com.cn
Taverna ¥ ¥ (Contemporary Western)
Slick service helps this faux-rustic lunchtime
favourite into our list, with typical dishes
including salmon steak, ribs and salads. Dependable, slightly dull even, but solid fare.
// Daily noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 1949
The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu ,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6501
8882)
Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥ ¥
(Contemporary Western) **
Setting is everything here, especially if
it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist
temple. The bold contemporary European
cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service
alone is worthy of worship.
// Daily 11.30am–2.30pm, 6–10pm. 23
Songzhusi Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng
District 东城区沙滩北街嵩祝寺23号 (8400 2232,
www.temple-restaurant.com/)
Paulaner Brauhaus (German)
The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses,
Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the
hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the
provinces. It can be pricey but is usually
worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest.
// Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50
Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店 (6465 3388 ext.
5732)
Pie-Squared (American)
Detroit-style ‘square’ deep-pan pizza. Gets
its name from when pizzas were baked
in industrial motor-parts trays back in the
1940s. Italian-American Strombolis, are a
savory upgrade on hot pockets, and well
worth the order.
// Daily 10am-10pm, Xiang Jiang Bei
Lu, Cathay View Garden (Behind DDs
Supermarket), Shunyi District, 顺义区香江北
路,观唐中式宅院(8430 8859)
阳区东直门外大街22-1号(6416 5499)
Tori Tei (Japanese)
Japanese izakaya-style pub and eatery
stocked with Japanese beers and sake. Its
specialty lies in grilled yakitori – chicken
skewers and other meat and veggie sticks.
Lively atmosphere and best in large groups.
//Daily 5:30pm – 1am, 8 Xinyuanli Zhongjie,
Chaoyang District, 朝阳区新源里中街8号
(64614513)
Sake Manzo (Japanese) **
The barmen here are serious about their
sake. Boasting one of the best stocked drinks
cabinets in town with over 60 different sakes
on offer, this super-cool little eatery is the
perfect place to unwind after a hard day’s
toil. The sashimi is fresh to the cut, and the
beer-marinated chicken is out of this world.
One of the very best and least appreciated
restaurants in town.
// Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu
Beisantiao, Chaoyang District 朝阳区团结湖北
三条甲7号(6436 1608)
South Memory (Chinese Sichuan)
This chain restaurant redefines Hunan
cuisine, with exquisite food and an elegant
atmosphere. The trademark shilixiang
niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse
yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and
meltingly tender frog dishes are among the
favorites with local gourmands.
// Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian
Plaza, 18 Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区朝外大街18号丰联广场2楼230232号 (6588 1797 for other locations, visit
www.southmemory.com)
Traktirr Pushkin (Russian)
By no means high-end, you visit Traktirr (or
its dearer cousin round the corner) for the
boisterous nighttime atmosphere and array
of Russian peasant fare: anything crockbaked is usually good, as is sharing a range
of starters. Plus: copious cheap vodka (and
suspicious homebrew).
// 10am-midnight. 1A Xiyangguan Hutong,
Beizhongjie, Dongzhimennei Dajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区东直门内大街北中街
西羊管胡同甲1号 (6403 1690)
Starfish ¥ (Seafood) *
Beijing’s leading oyster bar, Starfish is
among the very best seafood restaurants
in town. Renowned for its friendly, warm
atmosphere, this stylish low-key restaurant
is great for late-night dates, or just hanging
out along the large wooden bar and enjoying an Irish rock with a craft beer.
// 22-1 Dongzhimen Wai, Chaoyang District 朝
Union Bar and Grill (American)
The definitive US-style diner in Beijing, Union’s extensive menu – from eggs Benedict
to baby back ribs – covers all bases and
hours, served by friendly staff. The warm
atmosphere tempts many to stay all day.
// Mon-Fri 11am-11pm,Sat-Sun 11ammidnight. S6-31, 3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Village
South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区6号楼3层
S6-31(6415 9117)
Veggie Table (Vegetarian) *
Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine
is by no means the exclusive preserve of
Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson
fans, this superbly honed eatery offers
some of the very best sandwiches – vegetarian or otherwise – found anywhere in
the city. The shiitake mushroom burger is
a sensation, while the crispy baked home
fries and fresh homemade dips will keep
you coming back.
// Daily 10.30am to 11.30pm (last order
10.30pm) 19 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng
District 东城区五道营胡同19号. (6446 2073)
Vineyard Cafe on the River (British)
New Vineyard offshoot opposite of the Liangma River. Menu features British classics
like Fish & Chips and Bangers & Mash. The
breezy terrace is primed for a pint of the
handcraft beer or a carafe of Pimms.
//Daily Tu-Fr 1130am-3pm 6pm-12am
kitchen closes at 10pm, Sa-Su 1130am-3ppm
6pm-12am, Liangmahe Nanlu, west side of
Xindong Lu, across the street from Yuyang
Hotel, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区亮马河南路
新东路西侧渔阳饭店对面(8532 5335)
Wagas (Contemporary Western)
Quality eats with minimal pretension. This
stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element
Fresh offers some of the best and most
affordable Western lunch options in town.
The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a
crowd pleaser.
// Daily 8am-10pmS8-33, 3/F, 8 building, 19
South Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区三里屯Village南区三层 (6416-5829)
Transit ¥¥ (Chinese Sichuan) *
Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and
its equally hot girls. While the latter are up
to you, the creative minds at Transit have
made some fiery additions to the classical,
chili-thumping canon, and they will charge
you for that knowledge. But unlike many
equally expensive joints, this is high-end
Chinese dining at its best.
// Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm. N4-36, Sanlintun
Village North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯Village北区
N4-36号 (6417 9090)
Southern Barbarian (Chinese regional) *
Yunnan’s wide selection of savory, sour and
sweet, all in a smart hutong setting, with a
ton of beer selections to boot.
// Daily 11am-11pm. 107 Baochao Hutong,
Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同
107号(6401 3318)
Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar¥¥ (Contemporary Western) *
The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at
this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled
cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus
start from around RMB428 and merrily
spiral. But the meat is unquestionably succulent, and cooked exactly to order. Quality
seafood and gorgeous desserts, too.
// Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm.
InterContinental Beijing Financial Street, 11
Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District 西城区金融街11号
北京金融街洲际酒店 (5852 5921)
Tube Station
// YaYunCun Branch 亚运村分店: 17 YiYuan,
Anhui BeiLi, DaTun Road, ChaoYang District.朝
阳区大屯路安慧北里逸园17号,GongTi Branch
工体分店: Inside Workers’ Stadium North Gate
(next to Club Vic’s), ChaoYang District.
朝阳区工人体育场北路工人体育场北门院内VICS
酒吧旁,BeiDa Branch北大分店: 1 FuYuanMen
(400 meters north of Beijing University west
gate, on the northwest corner of theintersection), HaiDian District.,海淀区福缘门1号 (从
北大西门往北走400米,在路口的西北角),BeiTai
Branch 北太平庄:Building B, YouYan Building, 2
BeiTaiPing Zhuang Bridge, XiCheng District.西
城区北太平庄桥2号有研大厦B座,Solana Branch
蓝色港湾:Solana Center, above SAGA Cinema,
ChaoYang District.朝阳区朝阳公园6号院蓝色港
湾国际商区10号楼L-BS-47(传奇电影院楼上一层)
Wang Jia Sha (Shanghainese)
Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with
Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crabmeat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs
(RMB62) for a bit of Adam action.
Reservation (86 10) 6416 3469
S1-30a Taikoo Li Sanlitun(on the third floor of
i.t shop)朝阳区三里屯路19号院太古里1号楼3层
S1-30a号商铺
The Rug (Cafés)*
With ingredients supplied by local organic
farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an
emphasis on sustainability, this Chaoyang
Park café’s menu of locally milled bagels is
a hit with green types, bored foreign moms
and freelance Macbook types.
// 7.30pm - 11pm Daily. Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan,
Chaoyang Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite
Chaoyang Park South Gate), Chaoyang District
朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4号楼(朝阳公园南
门对面)(8550 2722)
White Nights (Russian)
You certainly don’t go to White Nights for
the service. Or for the food. Or the tiny
helpings. But people do go. Oh yes – it’s for
the cheap booze.
// Daily 11am-midnight. 13A Beizhong Jie (off
Dongzhimennei Dajie), Dongcheng District 东
城区东直门内大街北中街甲13号 (8402 9595)
The Woods (American) *
New York native-owned, Manhattan-style
restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrapers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple
than that.
// Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1,
Suite 101, No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, 朝外大街6号新
城国际1号搂101 (6533 6380)
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
73
listings
Wu Li Xiang (Chinese regional) *
Impressive views don’t detract from the
exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam,
especially the famous dim sum. Swanky
classics from all the main culinary regions
of China, like Sichuan and Hong Kong,
include “Monk Jump Over the Wall,”
braised pork in oyster sauce, poached Mandarin fish as well as the usual “face” items,
such as sea cucumber, bird’s nest soup and
abalone: claim one of the 11 private rooms
for maximum bragging rights.
// Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm. 2-3/F, Traders
Upper East Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上
东盛贸饭店二三层 (5907 8406)
Xiangmanlou (Chinese regional)
Xiang Man Lou is little-known among the
expat community, but many Beijingers
say it has the best duck in town. The
restaurant looks like a New York diner
from the outside, and the booth seating by
the window adds to that. However, Xiang
serves traditional duck, with all the fixings,
like pancakes (thin but with the chewy
resistance that is key) and deliciously fresh
accoutrements. At RMB118 for a whole bird
(with condiments), it’s also a steal. Large
portions of genuine, Shandong-style food
are also available.
// Daily 11am-4.20pm,4.50pm-10pm. Xinyuan
Xili Zhongjie (opposite Yuyang Hotel),
Chaoyang District 朝阳区新源西里中街(渔阳
饭店斜对面) (6460 6711) Daily 10am-10pm
Chaoyang Park West Gate, near No.8 Hot
Spring 朝阳区农展南路1号朝阳公园西门(近八号
公馆) (65950969)
Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) *
Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant
serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers
around, matched by enormous servings of
dishes like dapan ji (a chicken, potato and
pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy
tomato sauce) and baked flatbread (nang).
Nightly performances (starting at 7.40pm)
feature live music and belly dancers with
snakes – you might find yourself dragged
on-stage to join in.
// Daily 10.30am-11pm. Inside 7 Xingfu Yicun
alley, opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场北门对面
幸福一村7巷内 (6415 5741)
(6551 0806)
Yun’er Small Town (Yunnanese)
Folksy Yunnanese fare on Beiluoguxiang.
Fragrant dishes including the jasmine bulbs
with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp,
and banana leaf wrapped bolete mushrooms will keep us crawling back.
// Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang,
Dongcheng District, 东城区北锣鼓巷84号
(8404 2407)
Yuxiang Renjia (Chinese Sichuan)
Most branches maintain simple decorations, with black-and-white photos of
traditional houses, river towns in the south,
and strings of dried red chilis and garlic
hanging on the wall. So, too, is their menu:
old-fashion and reliably good. The lazi ji is
crispy but not too greasy, the pepper-sauce
noodle, with spinach, is filling and refreshing. Assorted confections are guaranteed
to offer comfort to numbed-and-burned
tongues, too.
// Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm 5/F, Lianhe Dasha
(Union Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街20号联
合大厦五层 (6588 3841 for other locations visit
www.yuxiangrenjia.com)
TOP 50 BARS AND CLUBS
About This guide represents our editors’ top
50 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) have been personally
reviewed by our experts, and scored according to pours, experience and affordability.
Apothecary ¥ *
Golf ball-sized ice cubes, infusions, fussy
bar-tending and (allegedly) snooty staff
have made the Japanese-style Apothecary
bar a divisive choice to visit. See for yourself: they also serve quality Cajun food.
// Tue-Sun 6pm-late (kitchen closes 1am). 3/F,
Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6040)
Atmosphere ¥¥
Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of
the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+
swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-degree views of the 700AQI PM2.5.
// Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon4am. 80/F, China World Summit Wing, 1
Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大酒店80 (6505
2299 ext. 6433)
The Bar *
This relative newcomer (sometimes known
as Third Floor) has years of savvy behind
it, meaning you can absolutely trust the
cocktail menu. Manager Jack Zhou and his
brother offer sterling service, while the
décor is handsome and low-key.
// Daily 4pm-late. 3/F Friendship Youth Hostel,
(100m west of Sanlitun Houjie), Chaoyang
District 朝阳区北三里屯友谊青年酒店三层(3.3大
厦西侧) (6415 9954)
Yi House (Contemporary Western)
Nestled in the confines of the 798 Art
District, Yi’s great tasting brunch is
bettered only by their wide range of
cocktail concoctions. Sundays offer jazz
brunches with lobster and champagne.
// Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am. 2 Jiuxianqiao
Lu, 798 Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后
街1号 (6436 1818)
Yu Xin (Chinese Sichuan)
Open since 1993, Yu Xin has a loyal fanbase
through consistently offers authentic
Sichuan dishes. Their liangfen – a jelly-like
substance cut into chunky strips and
dressed in an addictive spicy sauce – hits
the spot. Also not to be missed are koushui
ji, mouthwatering cold chicken, and
shuizhu niurou, fiery boiled beef slices.
Enjoy its rustic, intimate setting of bamboo
cubicles and swift, friendly service.
// Daily 11am-10pm. 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5
号 (6415 8168 for other locations, visit www.
yuxin1997.com)
Yue Lu Mountain House (Chinese)
Another brainchild of the artist Fang Lijun,
the mastermind behind South Silk Road,
Hunan-style cuisine (e.g. duojiao yutao,
fish head with pickled chili; hongshao rou,
braised fatty pork; lei qiezi, a cold, stone
bowl of refreshing mashed eggplant) in a
classical Chinese room with a nice view of
Lotus Lane and Qianhai.
// Daily 11am-11pm. 51-10 Di’anmen Xidajie,
in Lotus Lane, Xicheng District 西城区地安
门西大街51-10号天荷坊内 (6617 2696). Also,
Sat-Wed 11am-2.30pm, 5-10.30pm; Thu-Fri
11am-3pm, 5-10.30pm Opposite Gongti 100,
Bldg 1, Jiqingli, Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区工体西路吉庆里1号楼(工体100对面)
74
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
The Bar at Migas ¥
A place to dance and prowl, perhaps,
rather than a drinks destination, TBAM, as
no one calls it, focuses on upscale local
DJs to get the party started. Good-enough
cocktails range from RM55-70 but mostly
it’s about the music, man.
// Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday
to Friday 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号
Bar Blu
Three floors of DJs, bars and somewhatsweet cocktails prove popular with tourists
and the teeny crowd. But as the night
wears on, so does the sense of desperation on the dancefloor.
// Daily 6.30pm-late. 4/F, Tongli Studio,
Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里
屯后街同里4层 (6417 4124)
Bar Veloce ¥ *
A New York import, Veloce does fine Italian
wine, tapas and good service, and is unpretentious while also pleasing those who care
that the furniture is from Sean Dix.
// 6pm-12.30am Wed-Sun. Courtyard 4 (inside
1949 The Hidden City), Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工体北路4号院1949西门对面
(6586 1006)
Beer Mania ¥
With no pint below RMB50 on tap, the
Belgian-run Beer Mania really is for those
who are manic about their Trappist beer.
A pool table and new kitchen are welcome
additions to the large lager list.
// Daily 2pm-late. 1/F, Taiyue Fang, Nansanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯路泰乐坊
1层 (6500 0559, http://www.beermania.cn)
Black Sun
There’s not a lot of choice for locals
around the Chaoyang Park area. With
darts, pool, food and pub quiz, Black Sun
is probably the best, though a depressing
air does occasionally pervade. A recent
change of management has helped this.
// Daily 5.30pm-3am. Chaoyang Park West
Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园西门
(6593 6909)
The Brick
A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll
find this neighbourhood drinking hole-inthe brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey
or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails
(including the devastatingly boozy RMB80
Terminator) are probably needed for the
bizarre Wednesday pub quiz.
// Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi
Jiaozi, 31 Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of
Shuangjing Qiao), Chaoyang District 朝阳区
双井桥东北角广渠路31号院天之骄子2号楼底商
2-11 (134 2616 6677)
Centro ¥
Although it’s no longer quite the go-to
place for beautiful people it once was, Centro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly
jazz performaces, spacious and recently
renovated lounge areas and classic drinks
like the blue-cheese martini.
// Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1
Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路
1号北京嘉里大饭店1层 (6561 8833)
China Bar ¥¥
Top views from the 65th floor and flash
drinks are the attractions on offer at this
hip hotel bar.
// Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F,
Park Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区建国门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层
(8567 1838/40)
Chocolate ¥
It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate
without mentioning gold leaf, dwarves,
cabaret dancers and oddly-friendly Russian
women. Timed right, a visit can be raucous
fun, with bottles of spirits from around
RMB200, cocktails under RMB50 (including the absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon) and regular floor shows. Best to avoid
this cavernous slice of underground kitsch
after midnight, though.
// Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区日坛北路19号 (8561 3988)
d.Lounge ¥ *
The fancy spelling tells you all you need to
know about this chic cocktail lounge in a
stunning archway location. Great on school
nights, this place can become horribly
busy at weekend.
// Daily 8pm-late. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu
(opposite the Rock and Roll Club), Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工体北路4号 (6593 7710)
The Den 敦煌
At the opposite end of the 24-hour drinking spectrum from Centro, The Den is a
seedy sports joint that starts off sedate
and grows steadily sadder as night turns
to day. It can get rough and ready come
dawn. Solid (cheap) menu, good location
and those opening times earn it a place.
// Open 24 hours. 4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工体东路4号城市宾馆正门旁边
Drum and Bell 鼓钟咖啡馆
The location of this rooftop hutong bar,
in the historic (and threatened) Gulou
neighbourhood, makes it a great place to
hang out with a cool one and watch the
day go by.
// Daily 1pm-2am. 41 Zhonglouwan Hutong,
Dongcheng District 东城区钟楼湾胡同41
号 (8403 3600)
El Nido *
The first hutong hang-out to patent the
fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El
Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly
in summer. The roast leg of mutton place
next door is one of the best locally.
// Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong,
Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同50号(158
1038 2089)
Enoterra
Looking for an affordable glass of wine
with that date? Look no further than Nali
Patio’s wine center. Although the food
leaves a bit to be desired, the selections
are vast, and if anything, you can enjoy
a nice cheese plate with that tart glass
of vino.
// Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路
81号那里花园D405室 (5208 6076)
First Floor
First Floor is like that friend who’s too
popular to properly enjoy their company.
At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with
regulars and the passing tourist trade all
baying at the bar. A good place to meet
new friends, perhaps.
// Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 (6413
0587, first.floorbeijing.com)
Fubar
Long past its prime, this basement bar
has ditched all the speakeasy pretence
that made the place its name, and instead
hopes that live music and plentiful pours
are enough to coast on the legacy. Plenty
think it is, though.
// 4pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 4pm-4am
Friday and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang
District, Workers’ Stadium East Gate 朝阳区工
体北路8号工人体育场东门内 (6593 8227)
George’s ¥ *
Taking the Q Bar formula and ditching the
absurd serving system and mind-numbing
waits has served original mixologist George
Zhou and his clientele well. The chic looks
are more than matched by the superb
cocktails (usually RMB48-80), with even
old-timers like Martinis and Margaritas
poured to perfection.
// Daily 3pm-2am. Near Gate 12 of Workers’
Stadium East Gate, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工体东路工人体育场东门内12号
进口 (6553 6299)
Glen ¥
Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve
endured poor service and drinks that are
scandalous at the price), which is located
in a decidedly downbeat compound. But
whisky lovers have been known to swear
by its selections and dark, intimate atmosphere. See for yourself.
// 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites
Hotel Beijing, 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区南三里屯路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203
室 (6591 1191) Great Leap Brewery 大跃啤酒 ¥ *
The bar that began the whole Beijing
microbrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes in idiosyncratic, local-style brews
(RMB25-40) with intriguing flavors – their
Sichuan peppercorn ale was memorably
good. It’s also popular enough that reservations are recommended.
// 5pm-late Tuesday to Friday, 2pm-late
Saturday. 2-10pm Sunday.6 DouJiao Hutong,
Dongcheng District 东城区豆角胡同6号 (5717
1399, 156 1121 8019, www.greatleapbrewing.
com, contact [email protected])
Haze *
Hugely popular with the so-called ‘underground’ lot, despite the taxi-unfriendly
location, basement club Haze’s DJ sets
feature techno, electro, nu-disco (really,
anything ending in ‘o’) to Beijing’s pofaced White Rabbit clubber crowd. It is
closed over the summer, however.
// Daily 10.30-2pm. B1/F, Guanghua Lu Soho,
Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路
光华路Soho地下1层 (5900 6128)
Heaven
A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedraggled English teachers, Heaven sells the
cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You
can also hang around and appreciate the
afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the
food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen.
// Daily 12pm-4am. 12 Xindong Lu (next to
The James Joyce), Chaoyang District 朝阳区新
东路16号 (6415 6513)
Hidden Lounge *
Although frustrating to find, Hidden
Lounge rewards the intrepid with good artwork and comfortable seating, suggesting
a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great
prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix
drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have
to call them to find it, though.
// Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD
Apartments, Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区双花园南里二区CBD公
寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613)
Ichikura ¥
One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town,
this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind
a theater also offers terrific cocktails.
Although less expensive than several rivals,
you’ll want to indulge.
// Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36
Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
东三环北路36号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107)
The Irish Volunteer
Everything – from the red-faced owner to
the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged
with alcoholism, doggerel and drunken
regret. A good place to down a pint and a
pizza before heading into town, then.
// Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite
Lido Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区
将台路311号 (6438 5581)
The James Joyce *
With its roaring fire and portraits of Joyce,
the ‘JJ’ is a homing beacon to anyone craving an authentic Irish pub atmosphere (i.e.
without tacky Guinness-related gimmicks).
// Daily 11am-2am14 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区新东路14号 (6415 9125)
Jane’s & Hooch ¥ *
Acclaimed by some foreign press as one
of the best bars in the world (cough), this
not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard
of the South Sanlitun gentrification.
It serves RMB60-80 measures of your
favorite Prohibiotion-era hooches in a
fanstastic speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive staff and unimpeachable cocktails.
The drawbacks? weekends can be horriblky
busy – and there is a frankly absurd list of
house rules marring the menu.
// Daily 11am-2am14 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区新东路14号 (6415 9125)
Kokomo Bar and Restaurant
One of several rooftop bars that suffer
through winter, Kokomo has a game stab
at Caribbean culture with its beach cocktails and sandy floor, plus occasional DJ
nights in the summer. Also a restaurant,
apparently.
// Daily 6pm-2am, 4/F, Tongli, Sanlitun Houjie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯后街同里4层
(6413 1019)
Lantern *
Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture
Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the
strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars
known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, it also makes good drinks and attracts
international electronica DJs.
// Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of
Worker’s Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工人体育场西门向北100米(139
119 77989)
The Local *
Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has
come into its own, with large (yet strangely
unobtrusive) screenings of sports and political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and
a nice selection of draughts and cocktails.
Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t
need another.
// See Hot 100 Restaurants for details.
Lucky Man ¥ *
The cognoscenti rate this quiet Gulou
whisky bar as one of the smartest to satisfy your lust for the other ‘amber nectar.’
// Daily 7pm-1.30am. 157 Gulou Dongdajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街157
(6405 4167)
Luga’s
The closest Beijing has to a municipal
drinking hall, the four-storey Luga’s has
it all: terrible Tex-Mex, decent Italian,
a busy pool table, loud music, smoke,
400 flatscreen TVs all showing different
sports… yet still we like it (sort of). Basement bar Taps provides a German-themed
refuge, with serve-your-own draught
Paulaner and quality food.
// Daily 11am-2am. 2/F, 7 Sanlitun Houjie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯后街7号2
层 (6416 2575)
Maggie’s ¥
A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of
course, to the hot-dog stand outside),
Maggie’s has been providing its special
comforts for so long, it’s practically a timehonored Beijing brand – although it’s also
a bastion of Mongolian culture.
// Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan
Park South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛
公园南门 (8562 8142)
Mao Mao Chong **
The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorninfused vodka drink that’s a long way from
Moscow – are unique infusions using local
ingredients and know-how. Grungey without
being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash while
still keeping it real. And those pizzas.
// 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou,
Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街板厂
胡同12号 (6405 5718, www.maomaochongbeijing.com)
Mesh ¥
Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a
late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior
and underground soundtrack draws the
bright young things (and on LGBT Thursdays, quite a few old things, too).
// Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号
楼 (6417 6688)
Modernista Old Cafe and Tapas Bar ¥ *
The hipsters love this little brasseriethemed absinthe bar. Regular live shows
mean it can often get pretty crowded. That
should piss off the hipsters, yet still they
keep coming.
// Tuesday to Sunday 12pm-2am. 44 Baochao
Hutong, Dong Cheng District 东城区鼓楼东大
街宝钞胡同44号(136 9142 5744)
Paddy O’Shea’s
Owner Karl Long has airlifted an entire
Irish theme pub, including residents, from
a council estate in Limerick and gently
deposited it in central Beijing. With plenty
going on, including pub quiz and sports,
no one seems to have noticed.
// Daily 10am-late. 28 Dongzhimenwai Dajie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直门外大街28号
(6415 6389)
Propaganda
This sweaty student sauna is either the
best place in Wudaokou (if you’re a Korean
student, or like to pick up said students)
or some kind of fresh Circle of Hell (if
you’re anyone else). Fake booze (and fake
orgasms) abound.
// Mon-Fri 8pm-4.30am, Sat-Sun 8pm-5am.
100m north of the east gate of Huaqing
Jiayuan, Wudaokou, Haidian District 海淀区五
道口华清嘉园东门往北100米 (8286 3991)
Q Bar ¥
Atop one of the city’s most average-looking
hotels is one of its classiest (and certainly
oldest) institutions. Be prepared to wait for
your drinks, though. The rooftop terrace
is one of the main lures, so in winter, you
may want to look elsewhere.
// Daily 5pm-2am. Top floor of Eastern Inn
Hotel, 6 Baijiazhuang Lu (on the corner of
Sanlitun Nanlu), Chaoyang District 朝阳区白家
庄6号朝阳门医院北门东100米三里屯南路逸羽连
锁酒店顶楼 (6595 9239, www.qbarbeijing.com)
Salud 老伍 *
A Nanluoguxiang institution, with everything from cheap beer to (loud)live music
and low beams. The rum infusions are a
particular favorite on cold nights.
// Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66
Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南
锣鼓巷66号 (6402 5086)
School Bar
Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled
fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this
alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by
Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers.
// Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区五道营胡同53号
(6402 8881)
Slow Boat Brewery Taproom *
This popular microbrewery finally got its
own comfortable location in Dongcheng’s
hutong district. Quality ales (such as the
vanilla stout (RMB55) or crisp Dragon Boat
Ale (RMB25), heated floors and a kitchen
round out the deal.The burger-and-sua
// Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 4pm-12am, ThurFri: 5pm-1am, Sat: 2pm-late, Sun: 2-10pm. 56
Dongsi Batiao,Dongcheng District 东城区东四
八条56号 (6538 5537)
Smuggler’s
The high (or make that low) watermark
among the ailing dive-bar scene of Sanlitun, Smuggler’s caters to a rambunctious,
friendly crowd of scallywags, rapscallions
and ragamuffins. Don’t drink too many
of their spirits; do ask why the men’s
bathroom hasn’t been fixed in three
f*cking years.
// 8pm-late. 43 Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯后街43号 (138 0107 1230)
The Stumble Inn
Aesthetically something of an eyesore, the
huge drinks list and reliable Western food
at this ‘funky’ sports bar in the Village are
definite plus points.
// Daily 12pm-2am. S3-31 South Sanlitun
Village, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区3楼S3-31
号 (6417 7794)
The Tree 隐蔽的树
A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene,
you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer
aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere.
Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the
Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and
Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors).
// Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar
Street, Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang District
朝阳区三里屯酒吧街往西100米友谊旅馆后面三
里屯医院东面 (6415 1954)
Twilight ¥ *
A downtown version of Sanlitun mainstay
Apothecary, complete with mood jazz and
those premium cocktails, this Japanese
whisky bar makes you feel as far away
from the busy boulevards whizzing below
as you’d want.
// Daily 6pm-2am. 3/F, villa 5 east Jianwai
SOHO, Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区东三环中路39号建外SOHO东区5
号别墅3层 (5900 5376)
XIU ¥¥
While Thursday’s Ladies Nights attracts
the sort we’d sooner avoid, XIU is beloved
among aspirational white-collar Chinese,
wooed by its sprawling chic-ness and playboy clientele. A lively house band keeps
you indoors, but a superb terrace backons
you otherwise: a fantastic midweek drinking venue in the summer.
// Daily 6pm-2am. 3/F, villa 5 east Jianwai
SOHO, Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区东三环中路39号建外SOHO东区5
号别墅3层 (5900 5376)
10 Best Livehouses
2 Kolegas 两个好朋友酒吧 *
Call it what you will: Dos Kolegas. Fire
trap. That place by the drive-through. But
there’s no denying that this artsy alternative venue has its fingers on an eclectic
musical pulse. In summer, it really comes
alive with barbecue pits, all-day parties
and a whole lotta love.
// Daily 8pm-2am. 21 Liangmaqiao Lu
(inside the drive-in movie theater park),
Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路21号 (6436
8998,www.2kolegas.com)
Hot Cat Club 热力猫
A true stalwart of the Beijing scene, Hot
Cat is the type of hard-working venue that
helps cement a city’s music scene. From
Afro Funk to Math Rock to painful openmic nights, this everyman’s club breeds
good vibes. Decent drinks, lots of loungy
seats and plenty of space.
// Daily 10am-late, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just
south of Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng District 东
城区方家胡同46号(6400 7868).
Jianghu 江湖酒吧
This former Qing Dynasty courtyard home
is exactly where you’d take that friend from
out of town to prove you’re cool. Its cozy
atmosphere is also its downfall – any show
with under 40 people and you’re stuck
looking through the windows. Hip and
casually familiar, the jazz and folk bookings keep things low-key enough for the
get-home-for-the-babysitter crowd.
// 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan
Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街
东棉花胡同7号 (6401 5269, site.douban.com/
jianghujiubar, [email protected])
Mako Live 麻雀瓦舍
Nestled in the old Beijing Jeep plant, this
former warehouse plays host to a Silk
Road smorgasbord of musical encounters
from western China and the ‘Stans. Forget
the overpriced bar and come for the killer
sound, comfortable wraparound balcony
and five-meter replica of Optimus Prime,
followed by a hearty meal at the Xinjiang
restaurant upstairs.
// Hongdian Art Factory, 36 Guangqu Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区广渠路36号红点艺术
工厂院内(5205 1113, www.mako001.com)
Mao Livehouse
From the denim-jacketed doorman to the
well-grafittied walls, Mao leans on every
Hollywood rock club cliché without feeling
scripted. Besides boasting the worst bar
in town, Mao delivers with great sound
and the best billings of heavy metal, punk
hitting this side of the Drum Tower.
// 111 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District
东城区鼓楼东大街111号(6402 5080, www.
maolive.com)
The Post Mountain 后山
Built into a man-made hill in the center of
the MOMA Complex, this new addition to
Beijing’s growing livehouse empire is The
Hobbit meets Manhattan. With as much
vibe as a sterile modern-art gallery. Its
imported sound system and ramped floor
makes for decent sound and sightlines.
Almost exclusively featuring Chinese rock,
folk and electronic artists you’ve never
heard of (but should).
// Bldg T8, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu,
Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng District (next to
MOMA Cinemateque) 东城区东直门外香河园
路1号当代MOMA园区T8楼北百老汇电影中心北
侧 (8400 4774)
Temple *
Probably the manliest venue in town, this
dimly lit and unventilated space is owned
by rockers (Gao Xu, Gao Jian and Clement
Burger) and known for late sets of hard
rock, punk and ska, with weekend gigs
and DJ sets every fortnight. It offers a long
drinks menu, with plenty of cheap pastis
and shooters, but you’ll probably stick to
the RMB15 draught. When the smoking
gets fierce, head to the spacious terrace
for a big drag of bad air.
// Daily, 7pm-late. Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong
Dajie, Dongcheng District 坛东城区鼓楼东大街
206号B楼202 (131 6107 0713)
hip-hop DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie
outfits from across the globe – were worth
it. The upstairs bar area is a refuge from
the sweat glands below.
// Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m
west of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station),
Dongcheng District 东城区张自忠路3-2号
(6404 2711)
Zajia Lab 杂家
A Daoist Temple is exactly where you’d
expect an Italian Sinologist to open a
venue – big on film screenings, A/V projects, avant-garde puppetry and choice but
obscure live music for the adventurous.
// Hong En Daoist Temple, Doufuchi Hutong,
Dongcheng District 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池
胡同宏恩观前殿 (156 0112 2252, 8404 9141,
www.zajia.cc)
GALLERIES
798 Art District Picks
Galleria Continua *
In the often-insular 798, Galleria Continua
is the international gallery. Their warehouse space is a forum for high-caliber artists from nearly every continent, including
several of China’s artistic nobility.
// Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. 798 Art District,
2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒
仙桥路2号798大山子艺术区 (5978 9505, www.
galleriacontinua.com)
Long March Space
Founder and curator, Lu Jie abides by
exacting standards from both the 20-odd
Chinese artists he represents and the
overall design of his topical and uncompromising exhibitions. International clout
was inevitable.
// Free. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao
Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798
艺术区 (5978 9768, www.longmarchspace.com)
Pace Beijing
With locations in New York, London and
Beijing hosting the likes of Zhang Xiaogang, Yue Minjun, Robert Rauschenberg,
Mark Rothko, Kiki Smith and Sol LeWitt,
Pace inhabits Bauhaus-style buildings 798
is idealized for. Go there!
// Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.798 Art District,
2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
酒仙桥路2号大山子艺术区 (5978 9781, www.
pacegallery.com)
Space Station
Not often shown in 789’s sea of elites,
Space Station presents a younger generation of domestic artists. Exhibitions tend
to have a good curatorial understanding of
space and high-quality 2D work.
// Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao
Rd798 Art District, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒
仙桥路4号798艺术区中一街 (5978 9671)
Tang Contemporary Art
Stressing cutting-edge exhibition installation and curatorial theory. With locations
in Bangkok, Hong Kong and Beijing, Tang
focuses on promoting artistic exchange
throughout East Asia.
// Free. Tues-Sun 10.30am-6pm. 798 Factory, 2
Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区大
山子酒仙桥路798工厂2号入口前行300米 (5978
9610, www.atngcontemporary.com)
Ullens Center for Contemporary Art
Filling the largest factory space in 798 with
Chinese and international art, the UCCA
has the curatorial power and financial
backing to put together some of Beijing’s
most impressive exhibitions.
// RMB10, free Thursdays. Tues-Sun 10am-7pm.
798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 (5780
0200, www.ucca.org.cn)
Caochangdi Art Village
Chambers Fine Art Beijing
With its compeer gallery in New York,
Chambers is a matriarch with extensive
roots in the local-studio scene that allows
Big Apple headhunters to cull next generation avant-garde and provide a stepping
stone to international recognition.
// Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Red No.1-D,
Caochangdi, Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地
红一号D座 (5127 3298, www.chambersfineart.
com)
XP 小萍
From the ashes of Beijing’s now-legendary
D-22, rises the brave new experimental
club XP. Operated and owned by former
D-22 main man (and noted economist)
Michael Pettis, XP is more avant-garde
than its previous incarnation. Expect sonic
projections, drone-core jazz and the latest
in cutting-edge Beijing sound.
// 1pm-late, closed Monday, 2 Silouxiang (just
south of Gulou Xidajie, Xicheng District. 西城
区地安门内大街四楼巷 (6406 9947)
Galerie Urs Meile
Recently upgrading to one of the courtyards designed by artist-architect Ai
Weiwei, this Swiss-owned gallery has two
intimate spaces, allowing pairs of solo
exhibitions from leading contemporary
Chinese artists.
// Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6.30pm. 104
Caochangdi, Cui Gezhuang Xiang, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区崔各庄草场地村104号(近电影博
物馆路)(6433 3393, www.galerieursmeile.com)
Yugong Yishan 愚公移山
We’ve lost more body weight than we’d
care to remember in YY’s mosh pit.
Fortunately, almost all the acts – usually
Platform China *
Platform China has a Gallery A & B, one
directly across from the other, about equal
in size and each devoted to the promotion
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
75
listings
of experimental creation, from sound
installation to performative, 3D and 2D art.
// Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. No. 319-1, East
End Art Zone A, Caochangdi Village, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区草场地村319-1艺术东区A区内
(6432 0091, www.platformchina.org)
ShanghART Beijing
Originating in 2007 in Shanghai, this
institution skyrocketed as a major exhibitor
of Chinese photographic and digital media
art. Now representing over 40 artists with
five Asian locations, ShanghART is an
international festival regular.
// Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. 261 Caochangdi,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地261号 (6432
3202, www.shanghartgallery.com)
Three Shadows Photography Art Centre
Elegantly utilitarian in design, the
V-shaped gallery is an ideal venue to
accommodate all sizes and forms of photography. The courtyard also hosts lavish
openings, screenings and concerts.
// Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 115A
Caochangdi, Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地
155号 (6431 9693, www.threeshadows.cn)
White Space Beijing
There are no restricting on the art this
gallery supports, leading to some of the
area’s more perplexing exhibitions. Always
fun and on the pulse of vitality, though
empirical value is pushed to an extreme.
// Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 255 Caochangdi,
Airport Service Road, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区机场辅路草场地255号(8456 2054, www.
whitespace-beijing.com)
Citywide Picks
Arrow Factory
This space is one of a kind in Beijing, an
independently run alternative space in the
hutong of Beijing’s center. Showing young,
experimental artists, Arrow only takes up
about 15sqm and is viewable 24/7. As
a backlash against artists being pushed
outside the city limits, this space tries to
reinstall art inside an urban setting so
everyday experience and creativity remain
intertwined.
// Free. Everyday 24hours. 38 Jianchang
Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同38
号 (www.arrowfactory.org.cn)
CAFA Museum
Attached to the northeast corner of the
Central Academy of Fine Art, architect
Arata Isozaki built a slate-rock shell to
house the museum’s 13,000+ collection
of modern to contemporary art. Opened in
2008, exhibitions range from Chinese Modern masterworks to current avant-garde
experimental.
// RMB10. Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm. No. 8
Huajiadi Nan Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区花
家地南街8号中央美术学院美术馆 (6528 2022,
www.cafamuseum.org)
Today Art Museum *
As China’s first non-profit, non-governmental art museum, this institution embodies
the country’s 20th-century leap to develop
academic and progressive exhibitions.
Opened in 2002, Chinese superstars and
university prospects all get wall space
here.
// RMB10. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Building 4,
Pingod Community, No.32 Baiziwan Road,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区百子湾路32号苹果社
区4号楼今日美术馆 (5876 0600, www.todayartmuseum.com)
Independent cinemas
Broadway Cinematheque MOMA *
Opened in 2009, this arthouse film venue
boasts the largest screens for independent
cinema in Beijing. It has three theaters
with a total of 400 seats and a 300-sqm
cafe-bookstore, aptly named Kubrick.
// RMB30-120. Mon-Sun 11am-10pm. F3,
Building T4, The North Area, MOMA, 1
Xiangheyuan Lu, Dongcheng District 东城区
东直门香河园路1号当代Moma北区T4座 (8438
8258 ext. 8008, www.bc-cinema.cn)
Instituto Cervantes
Showing popular independent films from
Latin American Directors monthly, the
Instituto Cervantes is a forum of Spanishspeaking culture that also hosts public art
exhibitions and lectures. They even have a
video library!
// Prices vary. Daily 7am-10pm.1A Gongti
Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路甲1号
(5879 9666, www.pekin.cervantes.es)
Bookstores
The Bookworm *
This glass cube looks over Sanlitun Village,
providing a cozy atmosphere for browsing bibliophiles. The Western bookstore,
library, film house, bar, bistro-cafe and
76
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
event space always has a cultured evening
on its shelves for both adults and kids.
// Daily 9am-2am. Building 4, Nan Sanlitun
Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing 三里屯南街4号
楼 (6586 9507, www.beijingbookworm.com)
Page One
The go-to shop for new releases and special requests. With sister venues in Hong
Kong, Taiwan and Singapore, and two
locations in Beijing, its network allows for
fresh authors whilst upholding an extensive
collection of titles.
// Daily 10am-9pm. Shop 3B 201, Zone 3 China
World Mall, No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区国贸商城三期地下二层
3B201 (8535 1055, www.pageonegroup.com)
Page One Indigo. Shop LG50, INDIGO, 18
Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙
桥路18号颐堤港商业中心B1楼50号(8426 0408,
www.pageonegroup.com)
BEAUTY & FITNESS
Alona Pilates Studio
Pairing up traditional Pilates with an innovative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates
offers classes designed to tone and whip
you into shape fast. It also provides a personalized experience for all its students,
regardless of fitness, strength and
flexibility levels.
// Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Westin, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀酒店五层 ( 139 1029
0260, www.alonapilates.com)
Broadwell International Tennis Academy
Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis
Center, this indoor club boasts a complete
state-of-the-art air-supported structure
for all-weather year-round indoor tennis,
with an advanced lighting system and
controlled climate. Ideal for peeps looking
to perfect their service and batting a few
balls.
// Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区农南路1号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/
65958885,www.broadwell.cn1)
DNA Fitness Studio
Catering for both athletes and normal
folks, DNA Fitness Studio specializes in
one-on-one personal training, weight loss,
spine care, body building and more, with
personalized classes and training systems.
// Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm.Unit 1135, 3F, Bldg 11,
Jianwai SOHO, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环中路建外SOHO
西区11楼3层 (5869 1607)
Faith tattoo
Faith tattoo is one of Beijing’s most
popular tattoo studios. Their friendly
service -- and Western-standard facilities
and hygiene -- nets them a large clientele
within the expat community, and they can
offer a range of tattoo styles and sizes on
request.
// Daily, 10am-10pm. Ginza Mall,Rm 202, Unit
1, Bldg 1, 48 Dongzhimenwai Dajie (southeast
of Dongzhimen Bridge), Dongcheng District东
城区东直门外大街48号东方银座1楼1单元202室
(东直门桥东南侧) (133 6648 3206)
Fine Yoga
This airy studio offers a diverse range of
style and classes, including Ashtanga,
Hatha, Anusara, soft Yin and Hot yoga.
Teachers are top notch and international,
and classrooms spacious and bright, with
stylish, clean changing-rooms. Classes
taught in both Chinese and English.
// Mon-Fri 7am-9:30pm, Sat- Sun. 10am-6pm.
16/F, Tower 2, Blue Castle International Centre,
3 Xi Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西
大望路3号蓝堡国际中心2号楼16层 (85999566/
85997702)
Kinway
A hidden gem, Kinway offers a variety of
products and treatments in a relaxing
atmosphere, as well as some of the best
nail-art services in town.
// Daily, 10am-10pm. B1-13 Ginza Mall, 48
Dongzhimen Waidajie, Dongcheng District 东
城区东直门外大街48号东方银座B1-13号
Luxura Tanning Center
This tanning salon has some of the city’s
best state-of-the-art tanning beds, all
imported from Europe. For the sexiest tan
possible, get custom-made tanning tips
from the well-trained staff.
// Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) Rm 307, Bldg 4,
Jianwai Soho 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu,
Chaoyang District朝阳区东三环中路建外SOHO
西区4楼307室(5900 0427, www.luxura.net) 2)
5005, 5/F, 3.3 Sanlitun, Chaoyang District朝阳
区三里屯3.3大厦5层5005号 (5136 5186, www.
luxura.net)
Lily Nails
A long-time favorite among locals and expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a
nail spa; they have a variety of pampering
treatments and waxing services too.
// Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) 2 Ginza Mall,
48 Dongzhimenwai Dajie (southeast of
Dongzhimen Bridge), Dongcheng District东
城区东直门外大街48号东方银座2楼(东直门桥
东南侧) (8447 7178); 2) Shop 2049, 2/F, 3.3
Shopping Center, 33 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang
District朝阳区三里屯北街33号3.3大厦2层2049
号 ( 5136 5829, 136 8148 3308)
Yoga Yard
Whether you’re looking to develop your
spiritual wellbeing, body toning or just
socialize with the hip young crowd, Yoga
Yard will have the right class for you.
// Daily, 7am-9.30pm. Yoga Yard, 6/F , 17
Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区工体北
路17号6层 (6413 0774, www.yogayard.com)
Yihe 42° Hot Yoga
Counting on certified Bikram yoga teachers, Yihe 42° Hot Yoga provides three
locations with a calm, relaxing and clean
environment for people from all walks of
lives to learn and grow through the regular
practice of Hot Yoga. This is a place where
you can dedicate time for yourself, relax
your mind and restore your strength.
// Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 3/F, No. 2 South
Building, Blue Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang
District朝阳区大望路蓝堡国际中心南写2座3层
(8599 7395/96, www.yh42.com); 2) 3/F, Bldg.
14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu
Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳公园西路6号,蓝
色港湾14号,三层 (5905 6067/77, www.yh42.
com) ; 3) 3/FA Shimao Plaza 13 Gongti Beilu
Chaoyang District朝阳工体北路新中西里13号
巨石大厦3FA
YogiYoga
True boutique-style yoga, YogiYoga has a
mostly Chinese clientele and classes average about eight people. Their instructors
come from all over the world, and teach a
wide range of classes.
// Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) Chaoyang Park Tennis
Center, Chaoyang Park, 1 Chaoyang Gongyuan
Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路
1号朝阳公园网球中心 6592 2791/92 ; 2) North
Gate, Ritan Park Chaoyang District 朝阳区日
坛公园北门 (8561 5506/5507); 3) 5/F, Oriental
Plaza, 218-2 Wangfujing Dajie Dongcheng
District东城区 王府井大街218-2东方广场西配楼
五层 (6513-2188, 6522-7168); 4) 8/F, Zhongxin
Shuma Plaza, 52 Beisihuan Xilu Haidian
District海淀区北四环西路52号中芯数码大厦8
层 6269-2352
DENTAL
Arrail Dental
Affiliated with the University of Pennsylvania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class
equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple
locations across town and excellent
facilities make it one of the best dental
providers in Beijing. English-speaking staff.
Dental services including examinations,
whitening, root-canal treatment, orthodontics and implants.
// 1) Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B
Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路
乙118号国贸桥东南角京汇大厦201室 (6567
5670); 2) Rm 208, Tower A, CITIC Building, 19
Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District朝阳
区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208室 (6500
6473); 3) Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech
Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District海淀
区中关村科学院南路2号融科资讯中心A座308
室 (8286 1956); 4) Rm 101, Bldg 16, China
Central Place, 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公寓16号楼101室
(8588 8550/60/70); 5) 1/F, Somerset Fortune
Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区亮马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑1层
(8440 1926)
SDM Dental
The full spectrum of non-surgical dentistry. Services include teeth cleaning,
root-canal treatment, porcelain crowns,
dental implants, orthodontics, cosmetic
dentistry, fillings, pediatric dentistry,
extraction, teeth-whitening and veneers.
A basic consultation costs RMB50, with a
first-time registration fee of RMB50. Credit
cards accepted.
// 1) LB107, Euro Plaza, 99 Yuxiang Lu Tianzhu
Zhen, Shunyi District顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号
欧陆广场LB107 (8046 6084, www.sdmdental.
com); 2) Rm 106, Bldg 11, 22 Yuanda Lu,
Haidian District 海淀区远大路22号院11号楼1层
106室 (8859 6912,8859 6913, www.sdmdental.
com); 3) Rm305, Bldg 1, China Overseas Plaza
8 Guanghua Dongli, Jianwai Dajie Chaoyang
District 朝阳区建外大街光华东里8号中海广
场1号楼3层05 (5977 2488,5977 2486, www.
sdmdental.com)
United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic
The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in
Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital
in Lido (which has its own dental clinic
onsite). A comprehensive range of services
are at hand, including restorative dentistry
and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all
appointments.
// 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate
Development Zone, Shunyi District北京和睦家
医院牙科诊所, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818
(8046 1102)
HAIR SALONS
Catherine de France
Chi-chi French salon headed by globetrotter stylist Catherine Colin. With its sleek
decor and mod-black leather treatment
chairs, the bright salon space is chic, and
the international staff of stylists equally
so–you can trust them to always be up on
the latest hair fashions from around the
globe. If you’re looking for an avant-garde
look, Catherine develops a unique haute
coiffure collection every season.
// Daily, 10am-8pm. Ground Floor, East Avenue
bldg, 10 Xindong Lu,Chaoyang District 朝阳区
新东路10号逸盛阁首层 (135 2147 3492, 8442
5120, www.catherinedefrance.com)
Eric Paris Hair Salon
With several well-located Beijing branches,
this salon is still most expats’ default
hairdresser. It targets high-end consumers
seeking luxury and beauty services, including tanning, waxing and manicures.
// Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 43 South Sanlitun Beijie,
Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北街南43号
(135 0137 2971; www.ericparis.com ); 2) 1/F,
Jiali Center, 1 Guanghua Lu朝阳区光华路1号嘉
里中心1楼 (139 1179 8376;)
Franck Provost Paris
A chic and stylish import from France,
Frank Provost is one of Beijing’s most
high-profile and hip salons, offering
cutting-edge cuts for the city’s elite. The
staff consists of international and internationally trained stylists and technicians,
and stocks an imported range of products
and accessories.
// Daily, 10am-8pm.1) Shop D2001-1, 2/F, Shin
Kong Place 87 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区建国路87号新光天地二层D2001-1店
铺 (6530 7669); 2) Parkson Shopping Center
Fuxingmen 37 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District
西城区金融大街37号百盛购物中心二期夹层
(6653 5248)
Tony & Guy
A favorite of many Beijing expats, the
trendy British chain features international products, knowledgeable (generally
somewhat English-speaking) staff, and a
never-ending stream of well-heeled hip
clientele. Cuts run the gamut from basic to
haute coiffure, depending on which grade
of stylish you select.
// Daily, 10am-9pm. LG 41, INDIGO, 18
Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥
路18号颐堤港地铁层41号 (8426 0688, for other
branches see)
Tic Tac Hair Salon
Trendy, artsy and welcoming, Tic Tac is
one of Beijing’s best-kept secrets and a
real beauty gem. Staff are friendly and
multilingual (we counted five last time).
A shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at
RMB200 and goes to RMB780.
// Daily, 10am-9pm. Suite 2-06, Tower AB, The
Office Park, 10 Jintong Xilu, Chaoyang district
朝阳区金桐西路10号远洋光华国际AB座2层06单
元 (8590 6899, www.tictac-hair.com)
HEALTH SERVICES
Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital
With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality
inpatient facilities, home visits, night
services and transportation assistance,
Amcare provides a trustworthy experience.
English-speaking services include pediatrics, gynecology and obstetrics.
// 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
芳园西路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610
6200, www.amcare.com.cn)
Beijing International Medical Center (IMC)
Established in 1993, the International
Medical Center-Beijing counts on an expert
team of foreign doctors, offering a wide
range of medical services, including family
medicine, psychological services, dental,
ob/gyn, pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in services for travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds
are also available. English, Farsi, Japanese,
Chinese, Arabic and Russian spoken.
// 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center,
50 Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区
亮马桥路50号燕莎中心写字楼1层S106 (6465
1561/2/3, 6465 1384/28, www.imclinics.com)
Beijing Vista Clinic
This comprehensive medical and dentistry
clinic features traditional medicine, physiotherapy, a pharmacy and lab, ob/gyn,
pediatrics, ophthalmology, dermatology,
ENT and psychiatry services among others. Multi-lingual doctors always available
on-site.
// Daily 24hours. Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu,
Chaoyang district朝阳区光华路1号 (8529 6618,
www.vista-china.net)
OASIS Healthcare Clinic
OASIS Healthcare Clinic specializes in
serving the expatriate community with the
latest world-class technology and a broad
range of services, all in a pristine facility
designed to provide patients with the
utmost comfort, care and privacy.
// Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am12.30pm; 24 Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9
Jiuxianqiao Beilu Chaoyang District朝阳区酒
仙桥北路9号C1栋 (400 876 2747, 5985-0333,
www.oasishealth.cn)
Ispa
A comprehensive range of both traditional
spa rituals and modern foot reflexology
awaits you at Ispa. This ultra-Zen oasis has
treatments that beautifully blend Eastern
and Western healing ideologies, for an ultrarelaxing experience.
// Daily 10am-10pm. 5/F, Tower 2, Taiyue Suites,
16 Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区南
三里屯路16号泰悦豪庭2座5层 (6507 1517)
朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦
Tsinghua University
6278 9437/8286 3785
Chengfu Lu, Haidian District
海淀区成府路
University of Maryland
www.umd.edu
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
Beijing BISS International School
北京BISS国际学校
6443 3151
www.biss.com.cn Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District
朝阳区安贞西里4区17楼
Beijing City International School
北京乐成国际学校
8771 7171
www.bcis.cn
77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区百子湾南二路77号
IMC
Since 1993, the International Medical
Center – Beijing (IMC) has offered a full
range of medical services, including Family Medicine, Pediatrics, Internal medicine,
Obstetrics & Gynecology, Surgery & Orthopedics, Gastroenterology/Hepatology;
also Dental Service, TCM & Acupuncture,
Physiotherapy and Psychological services.
The department of Emergency Care at IMC
opens 24/7 with foreign-trained and boardcertified doctors on site.
Bilingual staff hail from China, America,
Russia, Canada, Britain, Jordan, Japan and
many others, making IMC a multi-national
and multi-cultural medical center that
serves people from all over the world!
// 50 Liangmaqiao Road, Chaoyang District,
Beijing Lufthansa Office Building
(6465 1560/1/2/3 Mail:[email protected] www.imcclinics.com)
SOS
Since 1989, SOS is run by globally trained
medical professionals and provides medical, security and travel advice, as well as
emergency help 24/7. Its alarm centers
operate house calls, ambulance and evacuation services, and standard health treatments. Languages spoken include English,
German, French, Mandarin, Spanish,
Japanese, Italian and Cantonese.
// Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16
Xinyuanli, Chaoyang District朝阳区新源里16号
琨莎中心1座105
室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.internationalsos.com)
SPA&MASSAGE
Aqua Salus
Providing an array of massage, face and
body-care treatments, waxing treatments
and salon services, Aqua Salus is a onestop solution for almost any beauty needs.
// Daily, 12am-12pm. 1) Taiyue Height 106, 16
Nan Sanlitun Lu Chaoyang District朝阳区南三
里屯路16号泰悦豪庭底商106 (6501 2881, www.
aquasalus.cn); 2)Lucky Street 1-17, 1 Chaoyang
Park Lu Chaoyang District朝阳区好运街1-17朝
阳公园路1号 (6501-6639, www.aquasalus.cn)
Dragonfly Therapeutic Retreat
Created as a contemporary urban retreat,
Dragonfly is an oasis of peace and tranquility in the midst of the hectic city.
// Daily, 10am-late. 1)60 Donghuamen Dajie
(near The Peninsula Hotel and Oriental Plaza)
Dongcheng District东城区东华门大街60号(近
王府饭店和东方广场) (6527 9368, www.dragonfly.net.cn); 2) 1/F Eastern Inn, Nan Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区南三里屯路逸羽酒
店一层 (6593 6066); 3) Grand Summit Plaza, 19
Dongfang Donglu (100m north of Lufthansa
Center), Chaoyang District朝阳区燕莎桥东方
东路19号外交会所1层(燕莎中心路北100米)
(8532 3122)
Fspa
This spa in Chaowai SOHO is a delightful
retreat from the often-overwhelming CBD
throng. Featuring sleek décor and an entire
wing devoted to female guests, complete
with swanky locker rooms, drench showers
and private suites, it offers a wide array of
pampering treatments.
// Daily 10am–10pm. B115-121, Basement
One, Zone B.C Chaowai SOHO, 6B
Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District朝
阳区朝阳门外大街乙6号朝外SOHO B.C区 B115121 (5900 1868)
Beijing Rego British School
北京瑞金英国学校
8416 7718
www.bjrego.org
15 Liyuan Jie, Tianzhu Town, Shunyi District
顺义区天竺镇丽苑街15号
Angel Hands
Choose from a variety of treatments by
professional masseuses in relaxing, minimalist surroundings.
// Daily, 24 hours. Rm 1801, Bldg 2, Jianwai
SOHO, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang
District朝阳区东三环中路39号建外SOHO2号楼
(8631 0801)
Long Island Spa
Bringing a whiff of Siam to Beijing, Long
Island Spa stems from the Long Island
Resort and Spa on Koh Samui, Thailand.
Indulge in a wide array of Thai-style treatments, and try the selection of healthy
foods available from their cafe.
// Daily 10am till late. 1) B1, Jiahui Center, 6 Jiqingli
Chaoyang District朝阳区吉庆里6号佳汇中心B1
层 (6551 6112/6113) ; 2) 5/F Nuo’an Building, 18
Guanghua Lu Chaoyang District朝阳区光华路甲14
号诺安大厦5层 (5130 9718, 6591 6247)
Herborist
TCM-inspired, Herborist is a Chinese skincare brand that also has a chain of spas
offering therapeutic massages with herbs.
The spa observes time-honored Chinese
health and beauty practices, with treatments inspired from acupuncture techniques in Traditional Chinese Medicine.
// Daily 10am-10pm. 1) Bldg 9, Sanlitun Village
South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳
区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区8号楼S8-33
(6416 5179); 2) Shop 39, Subway Level, Indigo
Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳
区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商场地铁层店铺号LG39
(8426 0455)
The Wellness Spa by Hummingbird
A favorite among locals and expats alike
for its professional pampering know-how
and services, the Wellness Spa by Hummingbird is a slick and serious urban
retreat in the heart of Central Park.
// Daily 10am-10pm. Tower 26, Central Park,
Chaoyangmen Wai Chaoyang District朝阳区朝
阳门外新城国际26号楼 (6533 6922)
Oriental Taipan Massage & Spa
Since 2002, Oriental Taipan has been pampering Beijing’s finest in their small chain
of contemporary spas. Calming flower
aromas, Zen music, and trickling feng shui
fountains create a soothing atmosphere in
each of their locations, while a long list of
treatments from around the world cater to
all pampering needs.
// Daily, 12am-midnight. Sunjoy Mansion, 6
Ritan Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区日坛路6号
(400 001 0202, www.taipan.com.cn)
EDUCATIONS
MBA & EMBA SCHOOLS
BBA at BFSU-SolBridge
北京外国语大学国际商学院
8881 6563/8881 6763/8881 8537
19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian District
solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn
海淀区西三环北路19号
Cheung Kong Graduate School of Business
8518 1050
Tower E3, 3/F, Oriental Plaza, 1 Dongchang’an
Jie, Dongcheng District
东城区东长安街号东方广场东3座3层
Rutgers International Executive MBA
5877 1706
www.rutgersinasia.com
5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie
Chaoyang District
The British School of Beijing
Lower School北京英国学校
5 Xiliujie, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区三里屯西六街5号 (8532 3088
www.britishschool.org.cn)
Upper School
South Side, 9 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District
顺义区安华路9号南院 (8047 3588)
Canadian International School of Beijing
北京加拿大国际学校
6465 7788
www.cisb.com.cn
38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区亮马桥路38号
Dulwich College Beijing
北京德威英国国际学校
1) Legend Garden Campus
89 Jichang Lu, Shunyi District
首都机场路89号丽京花园 (6454 9000;
www.dulwich-beijing.cn)
2) Beijing Riviera Campus
1 Xiangjiang Beilu, Jingshun Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区京顺路香江北路1号香江花园
(8450 7676)
3) River Garden Campus
River Garden Villas, Houshayu Baixinzhuang,
Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪白辛庄裕京花园别
墅 8046 5132
Harrow International School Beijing
北京哈罗英国学校
www.harrowbeijing.cn
Lower School
Grassetown, Gequ Village, Songzhuang
Tongzhou District 通州区徐新庄镇葛渠村格拉斯
小镇 (8951 6680)
Upper School
6444 8900
5, 4th Block, Anzhen Xili
Chaoyang District
朝阳区安贞西里4区5号
International School of Beijing
北京顺义国际学校
8149 2345
www.isb.bj.edu.cn
10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District
顺义区安华路10号
SIBS Springboard International Blingual
School 君城国际双语学院
www.sibs.com.cn
8049 2450
15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu
Zhen, Shunyi District
顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号
Western Academy of Beijing
京西国际学校
5986 5588
www.wab.edu
10 Laiguangying Donglu
Chaoyang District
朝阳区来广营东路10号
Yew Chung International School
耀中国际学校
Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang
Chaoyang District
朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731
www.ycis-bj.com)
KINDERGARTENS
Beanstalk International Bilingual School
青苗国际双语学校
Kindergarten
6466 9255
1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu
Chaoyang District
朝阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层
Primary School
5130 7951
Block 2, Upper East Side, 6 Dongsihuan Beilu,
Chaoyang District
朝阳区东四环北路6号阳光上东二区
Middle & High School
8456 6019
38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang District
朝阳区南十里居38号
EtonKids International Kindergarten
伊顿国际幼儿园
1) 6436 7368
www.etonkids.com
Room C103 Lido Country Club, Lido Place
Jichang Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽都广场
2) 6506 4805
3/F, Block D Global Trade Mansion
Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层
3) 8437 1006
Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and Kehui
Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路交汇处西南角
4) 8480 5538
Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing
朝阳区科荟路大屯里社区
5) 6533 6995
Bldg 19, Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie
Chaoyang District
朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼
6) 6539 8967
Palm Springs International Apartments
8 Chaoyang Park Nanlu
Chaoyang District
朝阳区朝阳公园南路8号棕榈泉国际公寓
7) 6749 5008
Bldg 21, Guangqu Jiayuan, Guangqumen- wai,
Dongcheng District
东城区广渠门外广渠家园21号楼
8) 8478 0578
Baoxing International Phase 2, Wangjing
Chaoyang District
朝阳区望京宝星园国际社区2期
9) 8047 2983
Block 1, Arcadia Villas, Houshayu
Shunyi District
顺义区后沙峪罗马环岛北侧天北路阿凯笛亚
庄园1座
10) 5870 6779
20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区西大望路甲20号首府社区内
International Montessori School of Beijing
北京蒙台梭利国际学校
6432 8228
www.msb.edu.cn
18 Maquanying, Xiangjiang Beilu
Chaoyang District
朝阳区香江北路马泉营18号
Ivy Schools
艾毅幼儿园
www.ivyschools.com
East Lake Campus
8451 1380/1
C-101, East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai
Main Street, Dongcheng District
东城区东直门外大街35号东湖别墅C座101室
Ivy Bilingual School
艾毅双语幼儿园
Ocean Express Campus
8446 7286/7
Building E, Ocean Express, 2 Dongsanhuan
Beilu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区东三环北路2号远洋新干线E座
Orchid Garden Campus
8439 7080
Orchid Garden, 18 Xinjin Lu, Cuige Xiang,
Chaoyang District
朝阳区崔各乡新锦路18号卓锦万代
Wangjing Campus
5738 9166/1332 110 6167
Kylin Zone, Bldg 11, Fuan Xilu, Wangjing,
Chaoyang District
朝阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内
Muffy’s Education
儿童英语之家
www.muffys.cn
1) Shijicheng8843 0104/8843 0373
5/F West of Huibo Building, Opposite to
The elementary school affliated to Renmin
University Landianchang Lu, Haidian District
海淀区蓝靛厂路人大附小对面汇博大厦西侧5层
2) Wangjing
5734 7085/400 6633 282
Beixiiaohe Park East Gate, Wanjing Xilu,
ChaoYang District
朝阳区望京北小河公园东门
3) Wanliu
8257 2550/400 6633 282
Yangchunguanghuafengshuyuan North Club,
Haidian District
海淀区万柳东路阳春光华枫树园北会所
3e International
北京3e国际学校
6437 3344
www.3eik.com
9-1 Jiangtai Xilu
Chaoyang District
朝阳区将台西路9-1号(四德公园旁)
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
77
CLASSIFIEDS
Accommodation
Ascott China
Enjoy our hot offer this summer with 20%
savings on Best Available Rates in Ascott
Beijing, Ascott Raffles City Beijing, Somerset
ZhongGuanCun Beijing from now to 30
September 2013. Take your pick from these
wonderful destinations and let us provide
you and your loved ones with a warm
welcome in Beijing this summer. Now is
the time to choose your favorite service
apartments, open your summer tour!
www.ascottchina.com
Ascott Beijing
No.108B Jian Guo Road, Chaoyang District
Tel: 6567 8100
Ascott Raffles City Beijing
Located in Dongzhimen, one of the most
vibrant areas, Ascott Raffles City is near the
second embassy district, which is rich in
cultural heritage and is only a 15 minute
drive to The Forbidden City.
Other nearby leisure attractions include
Food Street (Gui Jie) and Sanlitun nightlife
district.
No.1-2 Dongzhimen South Street
Dongcheng District
Tel: 8405 3888
Somerset Grand Fortune Garden Beijing
Enjoy gracious living at Somerset Grand
Fortune Garden in the prime Chaoyang
District, where the business district,
embassies and international schools are
within close proximity.
Unwind with a medley of recreational
facilities and the convenience of a retail
mall at your doorstep.
No.46 Liangmaqiao Road, Chaoyang District
Tel: 8451 8888
Somerset ZhongGuanCun Beijing
Somerset ZhongGuanCun is in the heart of
Beijing’s high technology zone. Enjoy many
recreational facilities and business services
in this stylish residence, which is close to
the Olympic Village, Tsinghua, Remin, and
Peking universities, and Haidian Theatre.
No. 15 Haidian Zhong Street, Haidian
District
Tel: 5873 0088
FraserResidence CBD East Beijing
Our location on the Fringe of the CBD with
excellent connections to the subway line
1 (Sihui station), BRT Lines (Ciyunsi) and
public bus system mean that wherever your
intern needs to be in the city, getting there
is relatively fuss free!
One bedroom deluxe: RMB16,000 /month
Two bedroom Executive: RMB26,000 /
month
Three bedroom Deluxe: RMB33,000 /month
Email: sales.frbeijing@frasershospitality.
com
Website: http://beijing-east.frasershospitality.com
Tel: 010-58709188 / 400-881-6988
FraserSuite CBD Beijing
The ultimate luxury in apartment living,
Fraser Suites CBD Beijing epitomizes style
and comfort, that surpasses the service
level of many Beijing hotels. The 357
Gold-Standard Beijing apartment features
contemporary concepts designed for luxury
living.
12 Jintong Xilu Chaoyang District Beijing
Tel: 5908 6000
GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING
One of the top residences in Beijing, GTC
Residence is located beside the third ring
road with 5 minutes’ walk to subway line
5 , 10 minutes’ drive to Hou Hai . It is
also within easily reach of CBD, embassy
area, Financial Street and other urban
commercial,shopping and recreation areas.
Fully equipped apartments with impeccable
quality offer you a cozy living system and
will meet all of your requirements for room
decoration, furniture, electric appliances
etc..
Unique sky garden with golf practice field
and barbecue area is another symbol of
GTC Residence.
E-mail: [email protected]
website: www.gtcresidence.com
Tel:56756666
78
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
Lanson Place
Lanson Place Central Park Serviced
Residences, located in the Central Business
District of Chaoyang, offers spacious
apartments in two, three and four bedroom
configurations as well as penthouses
overlooking a charming landscaped garden.
The interiors are contemporary and restful
while marble-clad bathrooms and kitchens
are fully equipped.
Website: www.lansonplace.com
Lanson Place Central Park Residences
Tower 23, Central Park, No.6 Chaoyangmenwai Avenue,Chaoyang District, Beijing
Tel: 8588 9588 Fax: 8588 9549
The Millennium Residences of the Beijing
Fortune Plaza
The Millennium Residences of the Beijing
Fortune Plaza is located in the heart of
the Beijing CBD which bears the most
momentously potential of development
and value elevation. While 25 minutes away
from the Beijing International Airport, the
Millennium Residences is walking distance
from nearly all Embassies.
7 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu Chaoyang District.
Tel: 8588 2888
Oakwood Residence Beijing
Oakwood Residence Beijing offers 406
fully equipped luxury apartments ranging
from studios to four bedroom penthouse
and terrace apartments, all exquisitely
furnished in elegant and stylish decor. Each
apartment is fitted with a state-of-the-art
air purification and air conditioning system
which ensures 99.9% pure, triple filtered
air, so you can trust in Oakwood and
breathe easy.
No. 8 Dongzhimenwai Xiejie, Chaoyang
District, Beijing 100027, China
[email protected]
Website: www.oakwoodasia.com/resbeijing
Tel: 5995 2888 Fax: 5995 2999
THE WESTIN EXECUTIVE RESIDENCES
The Westin Executive Residences at The
Beijing Financial Street offer an array of
world-class cuisine options and Westin’s
signature amenities designed to elicit
personal renewal. Just 40 minutes from the
airport, the Westin Executive Residences
provides direct access to Beijing’s business,
entertainment and shopping district and
close proximity to cultural landmarks such
as The Forbidden City and Tiananmen
Square. Each apartment is also fitted with
contemporary furnishings, fully equipped
kitchens, state-of-the-art appliances, home
entertainment system and LCD flat screen
televisions.
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.westin.com/beijingfinancial
Tel: 6606 8866
apartments for rent
Looking for a luxury bargain?
Very modern, Italian-designed 480sqm
four-bedroom, three-bathroom
apartment for rent. Fully furnitured,
located about 10 mins from the East
Third Ring Road in Shuangjing. No agent!
RMB45,000 per month. Contact the
landlord direct: Eva Zhang 13810298718
[email protected]
LA BELLEZA
La Belleza means Beauty and Aesthetics in
Spanish. Professional hair-designers from
Hong Kong ,Korea and China gather here.
LA BELLEZA is the hairdressing salon for
you with its pleasant atmosphere, excellent
service, and finest products.
New haircut! Good mood! Excellent life!
Add: F4 No.408, Jinbao Place .Jinbao Street
No88,Dongcheng District, Beijing, china.
Website: www.labelleza.com.cn
Tel: 010 8522 1626
Luxura tanning 乐晒日光浴中心
For everyone that always needs to have a
healthy and sexy tan,
luxura tanning centre is the #1 professional
tanning chain in china. We use hapro’s UV5
top end ultra power tanning beds and red
light collagen anti-aging beds that you can
say goodbye to fine lines and wrinkles.
Daily 11am-8:30pm Add:5005,F5,3.3 clothing plaza,33 sanlitun
road,chaoyang District
Web: www.luxura.net
Tel:(010-51365186)
MegaSun Tanning Salon
As the only flagship store for this popular
German tanning salon, megaSun Tanning
will provide for each client the finest sun
tanning experience.
Our center has prepared the newest
functional 7900 alpha and pureEnergy
chamber systems, combined with easyCare
optical testers. At megaSun, enjoy our
professional UV and tanning services.
Add: #8 Dongdaqiao Road, Shangdu SOHO
North Tower, Rm. 2302
Chaoyang District, Beijing
Website: www.imegasun.com
e-mail: [email protected]
Sina Weibo: @ 麦肤堂
Tel: 5900-2236/2238
BUSINESS CENTER
CSO (Singapore) Beijing Business Center
We have 10 years experience in
managing serviced offices in the Asia and
Pacific region, and our headquarters is in
Singapore. CSO Beijing is our first business
center in China . We are mainly providing
fully renovated and equipped offices to
clients for immediate use, and all the
serviced offices can be used as incorporation purpose, and we offer maximum
flexibility and complete smart office system
to help our clients save cost. We also
provide virtual offices, meeting room and
conference room, video conferencing,
incorporation services and many other
services.
Add.: Level 6, Sun Palace Building,
Taiyanggong, Beijing
Ms. Stephanie Yan, Mobile: 18210080591
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.csochina.cn
Tel: 86 10 64697000
Beauty Services
Black Golden Tanning Salon Sanlitun
Branch Grand Opening
Black Golden Tanning Salon is the only fivestar China flagship store by Ergoline. As
the 2011 model of Ergoline Esprit 770’s,
to bring a continuous tanning effect 25%
above standard machines with unique
aquacool and aroma functions, we provide
customers with the safest and most
comfortable tanning space.
Open time:11:00-21:00
Sanlitun SOHO Branch
Add: 2rd Floor Building 3, Sanlitun
SOHO,Chaoyang District
Tel: 57853711
Wangjing Branch
Add: Room T5 3rd Floor, BOTAI International Building, No. 36 North Guangshun
Street, Wangjing, Chaoyang District
Website: www.bjtanning.com
Tel: 84722855
9/F Tower 2 China Central Place
79 Jianguo Road
Chaoyang District
Close to Dawanglu station (Line 1)
Regus China Life Tower
5/F China Life Tower
16 Chaoyangmenwai Street
Chaoyang District
Close to Chaoyangmen station (Line 2)
Regus China World Tower 3
15/F China World Tower 3
1 Jianguomenwai Avenue
Chaoyang District
Close to Guomao station (Line 1, 10)
Regus IFC
10/F, IFC East Tower
8 Jianguomenwai Avenue
Chaoyang District
Close to Yong’anli station (Line 1)
Regus Kerry Centre
11/F Kerry Centre, North Tower
1 Guanghua Road
Chaoyang District
Close to Jintaixizhao station (Line1, 10)
Regus Lufthansa Center
C203 Lufthansa Center
50 Liangmaqiao Road
Chaoyang District
Close to Liangmaqiao station (Line 10)
Regus NCI Tower
15/F NCI Tower
12 A Jianguomenwai Avenue
Chaoyang District
Close to Yong’anli station (Line 1)
Regus Pacific Century Place
14/F IBM Tower, PCP
2A Workers Stadium Road North
Chaoyang District
Close to Tuanjie Lake station (Line 10)
Regus Parkview Green
15/F Office Building A, Parkview Green
9 Dongdaqiao Road
Chaoyang District
Close to Dongdaqiao station (Line 6)
Regus Prosper Center
6/F Tower 2, Prosper Center
No.5 Guang Hua Road
Chaoyang District
Close to Yong’anli station (Line 1,10)
Regus Financial Street Excel Centre
12/F Financial Street Excel Centre
6 Wudinghou Street
Xicheng District
Close to Fuchengmen station (Line 2)
Regus Zhongguancun Metropolis Tower
7/F Metropolis Tower
2 Dongsan Street, Zhongguancun Xi Zone
Haidian District
Close to Zhongguancun station (Line 4,10)
CAR RENTAL SERVICE
Beijing TOP-A Vehicle Service Co., Ltd
Beijing TOP-A Vehicle Service Co., Ltd was
set up specifically to cater for the needs of
the expatriate communities, we provide:
English -speaking driver, Long-short term
leasing, Airport-Pick up/ Drop off, Sedan,
Van and Bus.
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.expatslife.com
Tel: 64381634 Mobile: 13501237292
Catering Services
Regus Business Centre
Premium Business Centre
12 in Beijing, 70+ in Greater China
Tel: +86 400 120 1205
Website: www.regus.cn
Regus is the world’s largest provider of
workplace solutions, with products and
services ranging from fully equipped offices
to professional meeting rooms, business
lounges and the world’s largest network of
video communication studios.
Regus China Central Place
Aurora Catering
An 100% authentic Italian experience
whether tasting a mouthful Lasagna or a
juicy Carpaccio. Our international team
brings to you the authentic freshness and
tidbit of an Italian Espresso or a homemade
tastiness of a Mozzarella.
We offer a full range of catering and event
planning services for all types of business
and personal functions that are tailored for
you. The best service, at your service.
Contact Jacopo Tomé at 137 1794 0458
[email protected]
Zone de Comfort
With our professional service, you can focus
100% on your event at Zone de Comfort,
every single assignment is unique for us.
Our experience helps us understand your
objectives with thorough planning, and
of course, exquisite food with elegant
presentation.
In the past 5 years, we have handled numerous catering projects covering diplomatic/
business functions for embassies, highend cocktail receptions for luxuries brands,
automobiles and month-long hospitality
center services. Find out more from our
Website: www.zdc-catering.com
CONSULTING SERVICE
010 8446 7287
LEMBA
The Leadership EMBA from the University of
Maryland
Robert H. Smith School of Business is a
unique learning experience in Beijing. The
program offers world class executive and
leadership education from some of the best
professors the world has to offer. Every
month one of the professors from the
University of Maryland comes to Beijing
to instruct the class for 4 consecutive
days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18
months; the impact lasts a lifetime.
Email: [email protected]
Tel: 8526 2528/29
FURNITURE
Harris Corporate Services Ltd
Beijing | Shanghai | Guangzhou | Hong Kong
Established since 1972
WFOE & Rep. Office Set Up
Accounting & Tax Compliance
Payroll, HR & Visa Solutions
Hong Kong & Offshore Company Registration
Hong Kong & China Bank Account Opening
Serving all your business needs for investing in China. Call us for a free consultation.
Tel: (86)10-6591 8087
Mobile: 186-019-43718
Email: [email protected]
Beijing:
Room 2302, E-Tower, No.12 Guanghua
Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing, PRC.
北京市朝阳区光华路 12 号数码 01 大厦 2302
室
Shanghai:
Suite 904, OOCL Plaza, 841 Yan An Zhong
Road, Jing-An District, Shanghai, PRC.
上海市静安区延安中路 841 号东方海外大厦
904 室
Guangzhou:
Room D-E, 11/F., Yueyun Building, 3
Zhongshan 2nd Road, Guangzhou, PRC.
广州市中山二路 3 号 ( 东山口 ) 粤运大厦 11
楼 D-E 室
Hong Kong:
7/F., Hong Kong Trade Centre, 161-167 Des
Voeux Road Central, Hong Kong.
香港德辅道中 161-167 号香港贸易中心 7 楼
Beijing Office-TMF Group
In order to enable clients benefit from
the increasing globalization of the worlds
economy, TMF Group offers a comprehensive range of corporate administrative
outsourcing services in 67 counties across
the globe. With a genuine global network
and qualified staff, TMF group provides an
array of accounting, corporate secretarial
and HR administrative outsourcing services.
[email protected]
Website: http://www.tmf-group.com
CCTV Tower and Kerry Centre
Suite 3107, Tower A Beijing Fortune Plaza,7
Dongsanhuan Zhong Road, Chaoyang District
Tel: 65330533-860
EDUCATIONAL SERVICE
Ivy Bilingual School
Ivy Bilingual School offers a curriculum
based on the Multiple Intelligences
theory and provides an immersive bilingual
program, where both Chinese and Western
teachers interact with children throughout
the day. There are two Ivy Bilingual Schools
in Beijing.
Address:Building E, Ocean Express, No.
2 East Third Ring North Road, Chaoyang
District, Beijing 100027
Website: www.ivyschools.com
Email: [email protected]
Crossover
Crossover Center Flagship Store, is
mainly marketing international super home
furnishing brand products.
Our agent brands include Poltrona Frau,
Cassina, Fritz Hansen, Moroso, Cappellini,
Timothy Oulton, Tom Dixon etc, over 20
international super home furnishing brands.
Our products are covered with all of fields
in daily-life home furnishing, including
furniture, furnishing, lighting, dinning, and
office supplies etc.
Website: www.crossovercenter.com
NO.81 North Road San-Li-Tun Bar St. ChaoYang District.Beijing.100027,P.R.C.
Tel: 5208 6112/6113 Fax: 8610-5208 6123
Hotels
Lusongyuan Hotel
A traditional quadrangle compound
composing of 5 courtyards, in the “hutong”
area of Beijing. The hotel building is famous
for its imperial Qing Dynasty style, and
boasts a history dating back 170 years. The
original owner of this large private house
was the former defense minister, Grand
General Sengge Rinchen, who lived here
while carrying out official duties.
Tel: (86 10) 6404 0436
Fax: (86 10) 6403 0418
Address:
No.22 Banchang Lane , Kuanjie, Dongcheng
District, Beijing 100009, China
中国北京东城区宽街板厂胡同 22 号
www.the-silk-road.com
E-mail: [email protected]
HOUSEKEEPING
JNY Home Service
JNY Home Service was established in
2007, supplying foreign families with
English speaking/non-English Speaking
nannies(maids), either daily or live-in.
As a part of our service,we make sure all
references and ID cards are thoroughly
checked to guarantee the safety and health
of your family.
Email : [email protected]
Mobile: 13426362833(24h)
Beijing EX-PATS Service
Healty, reliable, experienced, Englishspeaking housemaid/ nanny. Free agency
and 24- hour English service. Medical
and Accident insurrance covered. EXPATS
Life Group also serves with Mandarin, car
leasing, English-speaking driver, Chinese
driving license, vehicle registration.
[email protected]
Website: www.expatslife.com
Tel: 64381634
Mobile: 13501237292
MOVING & SHIPPING
Seven Seas Worldwide
Save up to 50%! We’re the first choice when
it comes to moving baggage internationally
from one box up to 2M3. We offer a global,
door-to-door service with prices starting
from RMB 999 by sea and RMB 1580 by air.
Call 400 181 6698 now for an instant quote
or book online at www.sevenseasworldwide.com
RECRUITMENTS
The Pearl Golf Club
The Pearl Golf Club, an American owned
and operated company is the largest
luxury golf simulation club in Beijing. The
Pearl Golf Club is an exclusive, membersonly club designed to serve the unique
needs of Beijing’s elite. We are looking
for an energetic, vibrant and responsible
Sales Associate with outstanding sales
and communication skills who can work
under pressure. The responsibilities for
this position will include developing and
maintaining a client pipeline and planning
and hosting luxury events.
If you are interested this opportunity and
meet our requirements please send your
CV to [email protected]
SPORTS
California Fitness Beijing Club.
California Fitness Beijing is over 3,000
sqm, with modern exercise equipment,
cardio and resistance training, steam
rooms, group exercise studios and more.
Our Group X program is among the best
in the region, and with membership you
have access to over 150 weekly Group X
classes and a team of professional personal
trainers in Asia. Your membership also
includes free towel usage and a fitness
assessment.
Address: South Tower,L4,No.9 Guanghua
Road ,Chaoyang District , Beijing .
Fax: 010-65871477
Website: www,californiafitness.com
Tel: 4008-100-988
Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅
Cycle China provides organized cycling and
hiking tours in and around Beijing as well
as longer tours throughout China. Some
of their more popular tours take cyclists
through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen
Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs.
Address:No. 12 Jingshan East Street,
Dongcheng District, Beijing 东城区景山东
街 12 号
Email us at [email protected] or
[email protected]
Tel: 6402 5653 Mobile: 13911886524
Storage
Koala Ministorage
Koala Ministorage is the first professional
self-storage provider in Beijing. To learn
more, visit our website www.koalaministorage.com. To make a reservation, call us
toll free at 400-017-8889, email us at
[email protected], or visit
one of our stores.
TRAVEL SERVICES
Silk Road Travel Management Ltd.
Silk Road Travel is a pioneer in organizing
Silk Road tours and other classic routes
through China. Founded in 1997, we are
specialized in tailor made travel packages
that allow travelers to truly experience
local cultures and explore China’s amazing
cultural heritage. Whether you are a small
group of 2-9 persons or a corporate group,
our professional staff will design a tour
program based on your needs. Email: [email protected]
www.the-silk-road.com
Tel: (+852) 2736 8828
Fax: (+852) 2736 8000
Travel-Stone
We organize tailor made travels in China &
Asia for expats.
We speak English, French & Chinese.
Room 1001, DongWai GongGuan,
XinZhongjie Yi 3, Dongcheng Dist., Beijing
Contact us: [email protected]
Tel: 5670 7458
TUI China
An affiliate of World of TUI, the world’s
leading tourism group, TUI China was
established in late 2003 as the first joint
venture with foreign majority share in the
Chinese tourism industry. Its headquarters
are in Beijing whilst its operations reach
deep into the far corners of China. World
of TUI generated approx.50,000 predominantly western tourists to China yearly and
provides M.I.C.E services for renowned
companies worldwide. Add: Bright China Chang An Building,
Tower 2, Unit 921-926, 7 Jianguomen Nei
Avenue (Fax: +86 (0)10 6517 1371; Email:
[email protected]; Website: www.tui.cn; Tel:
8519 8800
Real Estate Agents
JOANNA REAL ESTATE RELOCATION
SERVICE
We are one of China’s leading real estate
agencies boasting an extensive database
of high-end properties for rent. We have
helped thousands of expatriates find their
homes as well as hundreds of companies
re-locate their employees. Once we have
found you your ideal home we will be on
hand to deal with any post move issues
and our dedicated after sales team will be
contactable 7 days a week to help you with
any queries you have throughout your stay
in our country.
For more information please contact us:
Email: [email protected]
Website: http://beijing.joannarealestate.
com.cn/ (Tel: 84585667 ; 13501358971)
“One of a Kind”
—173m² duplex apt. in Park Avenue,wellmanaged and good security
compound,near Chaoyang Park,2 beds
and 2 baths,master-room with walk-in
closet,delightful furnishing,come with 80m²
private GARDEN,¥20800/m
—122m² duplex apt. in Central Park at
CBD,2 beds and 2 baths,very cosy,high
floor,¥19500/m
—110m² “King-Size” one bed apt. in Central
Park,delicate furniture,large living and
dining area ¥15500/m
for viewing please call frankie at 1085325104 or 13911091759 PROPERTY ONE
Replus-Benchmark
“Replus-Benchmark” is one of the leading
real estate agencies and relocation service
provider for expatriates in Shanghai,
Beijing, Guangzhou, Chengdu and
Shenzhen.
• Residential Home Search Service
• Visa Application
• Commercial Office Space Search Service
• Buying and Selling Property Service
E-mail: [email protected]
Website: www.replus-benchmark.com
A-1509,Xiaoyun Center, No.15 of Xiaoyun
Road, Chaoyang District Beijing
Tel: 84467119 Fax: 84467577
Recording Studios
Baihua Recording Studio:
Established in 1981, costings RMB10 million
for a total space of 400sqm, our studio is
built on a foundation of spring-formed
cement suspension structures.
This is a place worthy of being Asia’s finest
recording studio. Here you’ll find China’s hifi music holy land, the fountain of Chinese
Rock and Roll music.
We’ve recorded with artists like Tang
Dynasty, Black Panther, Compass, He Yong
– “Garbage”, Zhang Chu - “Sisters”, Chen
Sheng – “One Night in Beijing”; this is just
the tip of the iceberg.
Many musicians have come here to record
their music, and Baihua Studio is THE place
to make music.
Equipment Sales, Speaker/Equipment
Rental, Music Training, and practice
sessions are all available.
You can find everything you need in
regards to music…HERE.
We are the home of your imagination, with
quality level equipment and top level music
designed recording studio. Here is where
musicians make music happen.
The Baihua Music Education Team is
formed from professional 1st line music
artists, with professional attitudes and high
quality programs taught by knowledgeable
music professors you can trust, in areas of
guitar, bass, drums, and computer musicial
programs.
Baihua Recording Studio, No.16, Xinjiekou
South Street, Baihuashenchu Xicheng
District.
百花录音棚 , 北京市西城区
October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com
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Win!
CRYPTIC PICTURES
WIN an art boutique staycation!
To celebrate Warhol’s return to China (p.46), spend a night in Beijing’s most exclusive art hotel
– Hotel Éclat Beijing. Enjoy breakfast, an indoor terrace, personal massage chair, full minibar,
3D TV plus private collection (see center). Send answers to our ‘20th-century artists’ quiz to
[email protected], subject ‘Cryptic pictures, ’ to win. Tip: The first one is easier than it looks...
How it works: Each picture represents a word or syllable. Spoken out loud the below combinations will create the name of a 20th-century artist.
1
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September issue answers: 1. Kurt Warner 2. Warren Sapp 3. Boomer Esaison 4. Bart Starr 5. Randy Moss 6. Chuck Bednarik 7. Dick Butkus 8. “The Fridge” (aka William Perry)
Last month’s answers: 1. Little Drummer Boy 2. Rudolph 3. Jack Frost 4. Nutcracker 5. Grinch 6. Baby Jesus 7. Mrs. Claus 8. Old St. Nick 9. Tiny Tim
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October 2013 // www.thatsmags.com