Focus: Actives

Transcription

Focus: Actives

COS1405_01_Titel_GB_COS1405_01_Titel_GB 22.04.14 13:06 Seite 1
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COSMETICS
S P R AY T E C H N O L O G Y
MARKETING
Marketing
Just how innovative
are newly
launched ingredients?
Ingredients
Sustainable actives are
shown to produce
an even complexion
Interview
The new role of
ingredients distributors
Market survey
Suppliers of processing,
packaging + laboratory
services at a glance
VIP of the Month
Dr. Andrea Kühn of
Wala looks at the current legal position and
regulations covering
cosmetics packaging
Focus: Actives
5 / 2 0 14
www.cossma.com
VISIT US
COS1405_Sederma_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.14 13:02 Seite 1
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NYSCC Suppliers’Day
(13-14 MAY 2014)
Stand
1537
Sebuless
TM
Picking Purity
from Nature
All-in-one solution
for oily skin
Mattifies and refreshes the complexion.
Fades blemishes in just one month.
For the first time tested on normal
human sebocytes culture.
Powder active based on HTN™
technology.
T1 month
EUROPE - Sederma SAS Tel +33 1 34 84 10 10 email [email protected] www.sederma.com
Sederma GmbH Tel +49 21 57 817318 email [email protected] www.sederma.com
NORTH AMERICA - Sederma Inc. Tel +732 692 1652 email [email protected] www.sederma.com
LATIN AMERICA email [email protected] www.croda.com/la/pc
ASIA PACIFIC email [email protected] www.croda.com
Scan the code for free* sample
Member of Croda International Plc
*Samples will be sent at Sederma’s discretion
patents: US7718199B1, EP1736167A2
T0
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EDITORIAL
The Exhibition Marathon 2014
Part 1 –
complete!
Industry events are popping up all over the place like
mushrooms, and, as silly as it may seem they more
often than not tend to happen at the same time!
For instance the first week in April was not a disappointment in this respect! In-Cosmetics started the
ball rolling with a total of 7,260 international visitors,
from April the 1st to the 3rd. This exhibition, where the
latest developments were presented to the industry,
takes place every other year in a different European
country, but returning every two years to the Mecca of
the beauty business –
Paris. This year In-CosDownloads
metics came to Germany
Additional information at
www.health-and-beauty.com/
for the first time following
qr00247
or you can just scan the QR code!
a 5 year break which
Your access codes for May:
User name: cossma5
gave the Hamburg event
Password: active
the ability to appeal diPS: Our QR codes and tablet-compatible E-papers can
take you, via direct links, to TV clips, downloads, book tips
rectly to the visitors and
and more
returned the best results
amongst the In-Cosmetics events that did not actually take place in Paris. We offer our sincere congratulations!
The COSSMA round table discussion*, with the title
“Is innovation always best?” drew more than 50 participants and presented a fascinating view of different
approaches to innovation management in differently
large companies. The panel at the round table was
a heterogeneous group consisting of Dr. Andrea
Sättler, R&D Director Cosmetics Skin/Body Care at
Henkel, Alice Davis-Hart, journalist and founder of the
teenage brand Good Things Skin Care, and Sarah
Brown, former PR specialist and founder of the Pai
Skin Care brand which was developed specially for
sensitive skin.
Although we might have expected that Henkel would
be a company to follow the traditional route, the discussion soon showed us how fervently a traditional
company also works on innovations. On the other
hand, with niche brands, where the budgets are
much smaller, it may well be the case that innovation
is limited to a focus on ingredients or additional
benefits.
Following In-Cosmetics some of us carried on to Cosmopack in Bologna. Since this event had now extended its opening hours from April 2nd to April 5th, the
dates were not just one day but two days before the
start of the main Cosmoprof exhibition, and there was
a direct overlap with In-Cosmetics. And the exhibition
marathon this year was not at all helped by the Lufthansa
strike.
For those more interested in professional salon cosmetics
the next step, the day after In-Cosmetics, was a flight
to Leipzig, because that is where, at the weekend, the
4th BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG was on the list! Around
8,000 visitors were able to assess the offerings of the 280
exhibitors and brands from the field of cosmetics, medical
beauty, nail care and decoration, podology and wellness.
Also running here in parallel was the 4th German Cosmetology Congress on the subject of anti-ageing. The congress was specifically aimed at scientifically interested
cosmetologists, dermatologists, doctors and pharmacists.
There were three sessions on the subjects of Complexion
and Dermatology, Actives under the Microscope, and
Apparative Methods of Treatment in Anti-Ageing which
gave the 120 or more participants the latest and up-to-date
findings in the fields mentioned.
And in May it all starts again with the Forum Cosmeticum
in Salzburg, Interpack in Düsseldorf, the BDIH Conference
in Heidelberg, the FAK ”Zeit für Neues” Conference in
Leverkusen, to mention but a few ...
I look forward to meeting one or other of you at one of the
above events!
Yours
Angelika Meiss
Senior editor, COSSMA
PS. *Additonal information on the brands and innovations of the COSSMA roundtable
can be found on the Internet, see Internet panel
Follow us on
www.linkedin.com/in/cossma
www.youtube.de/cossmatv
www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine
COSSMA 5 I 2014
3
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Contents
3
Editorial
쮿
NEWS
8
Markets + Profiles
쮿
FOCUS
Actives
10
a Dr. Leslie Schlüter, Sederma:
Purity from nature
10 I An active that
12
Marta Rull, Lipotec:
Facial rejuvenation without invasive treatment
responds to two
trends – sustainability
and a pure skin
14
a Christophe Paillet, Exsymol:
Real innovation – More than just creative claims
18
Vivienne Rudd, Mintel:
International launches
쮿
20
MARKETING
a Horst Waltenberger, NCD Ingredients:
Trading in ingredients or producing them –
The new role of an ingredients distributor
12 I Five active
22
ingredients for a
youthful effect with
non-invasive treatment
Star of the Month:
Active-free beauty patch
쮿
PRODUCTION
24
26
New Ingredients
a Dr. Andrea Kühn, Wala:
Packaging materials for cosmetics –
Special demands
30
a Market Survey –
Processing, packaging and laboratory services
26 I What
demands does
the current legislation place
on packaging
materials for
cosmetics
Packaging News
쮿
SERVICES
6
Download List
40
Essential Oils:
Price list
photo: Gerhard Schubert
30 I Processing, packaging
and laboratory
services: all of
the suppliers
at a glance
34
41
Formulations:
Natural cosmetics
42
Events Diary
44
International B2B Exchange
46
Suppliers‘ Guide
48
Company Index
48
Advertisers‘ Index
49
Masthead Page
50
Trend statement by
Dr. Daniel Stangl, La Prairie
50
Preview
a Leading articles
Front cover picture: MLW Photo, Shutterstock
COS1405_Optima_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.14 13:34 Seite 1
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Intelligent Packaging Machines
Creative Solutions. Wide Variety. Sheer Excitement.
EXPL
ORE
o
n 1.0
00 m 2
E
ENC
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P
EX
ines
h
c
a
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of 15
Secure your personal appointment
and admission ticket today at:
www.optima-interpack.com
FEEL
for 7
days
DÜSSELDORF, GERMANY
08 to14 May 14
Hall 16 | Booth F25-F26
Member of
OPTIMA packaging group GmbH | Steinbeisweg 20 | 74523 Schwaebisch Hall
Telefon +49 791 506-0 | E-Mail [email protected] | www.optima-ger.com
COS1405_06_Download_GB 25.04.14 07:52 Seite 6
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SERVICES
DOWNLOAD
Free Downloads for Subscribers
www.cossma.com/download
COSSMA Download-Tip
Click through our Web TV clips:
www.cossma.com/tv
There is at present a boom in
cosmetic products that contain active ingredients, and
in cosmetic treatments, and
of course there is a constant
demand for new concepts
and active mechanisms ... So
it is no wonder that the range
of nutricosmetics is growing
in importance. Angela Kleiner gives us a peep into the
background.
photo: Best Foto Studio, Shutterstock.com
… characterizes the natural cosmetics market in the USA.
Nutricosmetics: What’s next, after Doctor Brands?
COSSMA subscribers can
download further background information.
Actives from plants
with proven efficacy
Top-Downloads for May
… points out how the market developed in 2013.
• Background:
Dermacryl Film Formers
(Akzo Nobel)
• Events:
photo: Nikolai Sorohin, Fotalia.de
In-Cosmetics
Hamburg 2014
• Fragrance Stability:
Internet Resources
• Formulation:
Smoothing Conditioner
(Cremer Oleo))
… explains what the brand Clarisonic is all about.
Downloads
… explains the product concept behind Lancôme’s
”Dreamtone“.
6
COSSMA 5I 2014
or you can just scan
the QR code!
Your access codes
for May:
User name: cossma5
Password: active
Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA
web site we post lots of additional information
elated to the topics covered in the magazine.
You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items
to extend your knowledge and understanding:
more information on the ingredients and
finished products that we cover, market data and
statistics, supplier listings, literature references,
scientific articles, product formulations and useful
base formulations. Take a look right now, at
COS1405_Lipotec_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.14 13:35 Seite 1
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Bermuda
Atlantic Ocean
A secret personal trainer
0 days
actigym marine ingredient
+ no exercise
TM
actigym marine ingredient
+ exercise
TM
56 days
By increasing adiponectin release, an endurance training-like effect is
achieved leading to better body definition. After 56 days, 52% of the
volunteers using a cream with 5% actigym™ marine ingredient twice a
day saw a visible reduction in abdomen contour by 1.6 cm, on average.
Results were even more impressive on those who applied the treatment
in addition to performing exercise.
All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation. © 2014 The Lubrizol Corporation.
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NEWS
MARKETS + PROFILES
Axilone:
Laurent Chevallier
Crabtree & Evelyn:
Erich Fischer
Coty:
Mario Reis
Drom Brazil:
Eve Miralles
Estée Lauder
Companies:
Guillaume Jesel
Eurofragance:
Laurent Mercier
Guerlain Germany:
Oliver Zinnert
Lancôme:
Dr. Macrene Renee
Alexiades-Armenakas
L’Oréal Germany:
Holger Quernheim …
and Klaudija Tomsic
LUM:
Suzanna Azoubel
Safic-Alcan Germany: Holger Plate
People
Axilone I Laurent Chevallier,
43, joined the company as new
Managing Director of Axilone in
January. Previously he worked
for Sidel as General Manager of
the Labelling Division and then at
SGD as the CEO of VG Emballage and a member of the SGD
Executive Committee. The company has a new French plastics
plant with a new varnish and metallization line and an automatic
assembly workshop, as well as
a new metal stamping factory
under construction in Spain.
Crabtree & Evelyn I The
new General Manager for Germany and Austria at Cyrus Harvey, a company established over
40 years ago, is Erich Fischer, a
man with many years of experience and expertise in sales and
marketing. He takes over from
Mark Stanlein of the Netherlands
who now takes on the role of
New Business Development Director with the task of developing
new business for the company in
the Europe, the Middle East and
Africa countries. The family-run
company, that originally sold the
finest soaps from all around the
world, has, over a 40 year period,
developed into an international
cosmetics company supplying
fragrances, bath and shower
gels, soaps, home spa products,
body lotions, hand creams and
room fresheners, and has a
global presence in more than
8
COSSMA 5 I 2014
65 countries. The mission of the
worldwide operation is based on
supplying products with beneficial ingredients inspired by
nature.
Coty I At the end of this year
Darryl McCall is taking his retirement and will be succeeded by
Mario Reis who takes over as
Executive Vice President with responsibility for the supply chain,
based in Geneva.
Drom Brasil I Eve Miralles
(39) takes on the role as Junior
Perfumer with responsibility for
fine fragrances and body care
products. She was previously a
Creative Perfumer at Carin in
Barcelona, and also worked as a
Sensory Analyst with Firmenich,
UK and Adria, France.
Estée Lauder Companies I Guillaume Jesel has
been appointed to the newly created position of Senior Vice President/General Manager, Global
Corporate Innovation. He will
lead the company’s Global Corporate Innovation programme, including corporate technologies,
external innovation and the longterm innovation pipeline, and innovation portfolio. Having been
with the company for 14 years,
serving in a number of senior
roles, including Vice President,
Global Make-up Marketing for
the Estée Lauder brand, and Executive Director of International,
M·A·C Cosmetics, he previously
served in marketing capacities at
the Lancôme division of L’Oréal.
Eurofragance I Eurofragance, a company specialised in
fragrance design for the perfume, cosmetic and home care
sectors, has appointed Laurent
Mercier as its new Global Business Unit Director to manage the
Sales, Customer Services, and
Marketing, Evaluation and Design teams, both nationally and
internationally. During his career,
Laurent Mercier has held a number of positions at companies
such as Procter & Gamble, Givaudan and, most recently, Firmenich, where he became Vice
President of Sales and Marketing
in 2009.
Guerlain Germany I As the
new Brand General Manager for
the Guerlain brand Oliver Zinnert
takes over from Sandra Mohsni
who has run the brand for the
last 4 years. After 3 years in a
consultancy business Zinnert
was 8 years at Unilever in various national and international
marketing and sales functions.
Since 2011 he has been LVMH
Brand General Manager at
Acqua di Parma.
Lancôme I The internationally
acclaimed dermatologist Dr.
Macrene Renee Alexiades-Armenakas now serves as Lancôme’s
consulting dermatologist and
skin care authority. With over 20
years of experience in scientific
research and clinical dermatology she is the director of her own
research clinic and private practice in laser and aesthetic dermatology in New York City, and
researches on laser technology
and skin rejuvenation. She will be
working closely with the brand
on skin care innovation and sharing her insights on cutting-edge
research projects.
L’Oréal Germany I The
sales director for the L’Oréal
Paris, Garnier and Maybelline
brands, Holger Quernheim, who
since 1997 has worked for
L’Oréal Paris, takes on an international role and is succeeded by
Klaudija Tomsic. Klaudija Tomsic,
who has been with L‘Oréal since
2002, has taken over the management of consumer product
sales.
LUM I The winner of the Young
Scientist Award (YSA) 2014 is
Suzanna Azoubel from the Hebrew University of Jerusalem in
Israel who entered her development concerning the production
and rapid characterisation of dispersions using carbon nanotubes. This prize was presented
by LUM for the first time for outstanding scientific contributions
in the field of particles and dispersion analysis.
Safic-Alcan Germany I
Holger Plate is now responsible
for sales of cosmetics in Germany. After studying the techno-
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MARKETS + PROFILES
logy of cosmetics and detergents in Lemgo
Holger Plate was employed as Contents Production Head at the Ewald Hermes Bübchen
Werk. This was followed by, amongst other
jobs, a post as Key Account Manager and later
as Sales Manager for Personal Care products
at AkzoNobel, and lastly as Technical Sales
Manager at Azelis (formerly S. Black).
29th BEAUTY FORUM
MUNICH I At the BEAUTY
FORUM MUNICH on October 25th
and 26th you can see for yourself –
live – exactly what the professional
beauty sector has to offer for next
year, namely an extensive range of
skin care products, cosmetics and
apparative equipment, colour cosmetics, nail design and nail art,
foot care and podology, plus the
topics of medical beauty, natural
cosmetics and wellness & spa.
There are three main fields
Admission to the exhibition is free of charge for foreign
covered in the Medical Beautyvisitors
Forum: anti-ageing, non-invasive
anti-ageing concepts, and cosmetics and medicine hand in hand against skin ageing.
In addition to this wide product range from the exhibitors the IFC (International Forum of
Cosmetics) has put together a technical and supporting programme of further professional training.
Do you already know about our new BEAUTY FORUM connect arrangement for B2B
contacts? This on-line networking tool, which is available free of charge to all of the
BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH exhibitors at www.connect.beauty-forum.com, offers a great
opportunity to establish new national and international B2B contacts!
Award winning
ingredients and
end products
BSB Cosmetic I The BSB European innovations prize for cosmetics,
natural products and their chemical ingredients* was awarded in Hamburg
this year for the 12th time. The winner
in the end products category was
The Skin Whisperer by Mila d’Opiz.
For natural products first place went
to the Aquanature eye pads from
Annemarie Börlind and also to the
24 hour face cream Regeneration
from Kneipp. The winner in the actives/naturals category was Snow
Algae Powder by Mibelle. In functionals Doosans DS Hydroceramide50S
was the winner. In the raw materials/
ingredients category the winner was
Provital’s Baicapil. The winners were
picked out by a panel of four independent international judges which
included COSSMA editor Angelika
Meiss.
*The prize was set up by the Dr. Riedel
BSB consultancy and service bureau
Information at: www.beauty-fairs.de/muenchen
BEAUTY FORUM connect
helps you to plan your exhibition visit and networking
more efficiently
photo: Angelika Meiss
photo: Robert Gruber
See the trends live,
in Munich!
NEWS
The prizewinners with their awards
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FOCUS: ACTIVES INGREDIENTS
photo: Croda
Purity from nature
photo: Mikhail Hoboton Popov, Shutterstock.com
The active substance from
the lilac’s stem cells is
proven to reduce the skin’s
sebum level
Dr. Leslie Schlüter of Sederma explains how, with just one new
active ingredient, it is possible to respond to two trends at the
same time – a pure even complexion and sustainability.
T
here are two trends very much in
evidence right now in the cosmetic products sector. The first is
the search for a pure, even complexion,
and the second is the concept of
“sustainability”.
The desire for an even complexion
has always been a driving force – just
think of Grimm’s “Snow White” fairy
story that dates back centuries, with
her “skin as white as snow”. And because it is ever more acceptable to preserve and care for resources the concept of sustainability is becoming
more and more important in the minds
of consumers.
A product category that tackles the
problems of an even and glowing complexion are the BB, CC, DD etc. creams.
Meanwhile we are also seeing, in cos-
10
COSSMA 5 I 2014
metics retail outlets, an increasing
number of unpigmented products that
promise exactly these results.
People with greasy skin tend to
have a glossy complexion, with large
pores and impurities which in no way
can be described as an even and uniform complexion. And over all 90% of
the population have experienced, at
some time in their lives, an acne-like
outbreak – and not just as teenagers.
Causes and results
of impure skin
People with greasy and impure skin
not only suffer from the above-mentioned social problems with regard to a
beauty ideal, but also have physiological changes in their skin causing, for
example, inflammation and itching.
The plant stem cells obtained using
HTN technology are reproducible
under controlled conditions
This combination often leads to scars
or other marks on the face that will be
visible during the patient’s whole life.
The fatty elements, generated by
the sebaceous glands, are in fact an
important aspect because they act as a
natural moisturising cream for the
skin. The cause of greasy skin is due to
the fact that the sebaceous glands are
over-active. But to treat such skin types
with harsh purification products is in
effect a double-edged sword.
The excess sebum may well be removed, but the skin becomes highly irritated. The sebaceous glands try to
avoid the loss of fatty substances,
which can make the problem worse. Instead of fully acting against sebum
production sebum should be made to
be produced in a controlled manner.
Keeping clear the openings of the
pores is also an essential part of fatty
skin treatment, otherwise dead cells
and dirt plug the pores and the resulting conditions would allow bacteria to
proliferate and to colonise these skin
areas.
One of the best researched microorganisms which is involved in acnetype inflammation is Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes). P. acnes is a natural component of the skin’s flora and is
a commensale. It lives in the first line
of the cutaneous sebum of the hair fol-
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INGREDIENTS
FOCUS: ACTIVES
Not only the
sebum levels
but also spots,
redness and
inflammation are
reduced within
one month using
a light, active
cream
licle and is heavily reproduced by an
imbalance in sebum production. P. acnes binds to skin cell receptors and induces the production of pro-inflammatory messengers inside the cells. Thus
an uncontrolled reproduction can at
times lead to bad inflammation and
ultimately to a phenotypical image of
inflamed acne.
A big advantage would therefore be
a product that not only clears the skin’s
surface and removes excess sebum,
but will also attack the reason for excess sebum production and will remove the niches where bacteria can
multiply. And it is only based on truly
pure skin that such a clear complexion
can be achieved.
Sederma’s Sebuless* is gained
from cells of the plant Syringa vulgaris,
also known as common lilac, by means
of the sustainable HTN (High Tech Nature) technology. This plant, originating in South-eastern Europe, belongs
to the olive family (Oleaceae) and is
now found all across Europe.
Plant stem cells as a source
of sustainable actives
The HTN technology uses plant
stem cells as little “factories” for the
production of active substances. The
base for this technology is mature
plant material which is cut in small
pieces and cultivated on plant-specific
medium.
On the cutting edges new dedifferentiated cells are formed, called plant
stem or meristem cells.
They are cultivated under controlled conditions to avoid the cells to
differentiate. Some time later the production of specific secondary plant
substances is induced. This can be
done by a special composition of the
nutrient solution, or also with a specif-
ic temperature. The conditions are different for each plant type and so are
different for every plant stem cell
based product.
Identifying the required induction
conditions is part of the demands of
specialised know-how.
The HTN technology is characterised by the acquisition of secondary
plant substances, with the help of
plant stem cells and saves large
amounts of water, solvent and cultivated ground. It can also be guaranteed
that the ingredients are 100% free of
pesticides, environmental pollution
and GMOs (genetically modified organisms).
Furthermore the acquired extracts
can be reproduced in their active concentrations.
Sustainable and effective
treatment for impure skin
The secondary plant metabolite
from Syringa vulgaris, which is responsible for the action of Sebuless, is
clearly defined.
In-vitro research has led to the conclusion that the ingredient is in a position to control the key mechanisms
that can lead to the skin irregularities
described.
A new type of culture model developed by Sederma was used to mimic
the problem of hyperseborrhea. It was
thus able to be shown that a given active concentration can reduce the artificially created increase in the lipid
synthesis by more than half.
An interesting point is the controlled action on the proliferation of P.
acnes. Because the active substance
promotes the synthesis of antimicrobial peptides by sebocytes the growth
of P. acnes is restricted and at the same
time the receptors to which P. acnes
binds (Toll-like receptor 2) are inhibited. It is thus that there is a reduction in
inflammatory reactions.
To test the active in vivo various trials with volunteers were carried out.
The volunteers with greasy and/or acne-prone skin used a light cream containing the active against a placebo
twice a day.
The reduction of the sebum level
seen was confirmed in vivo. SebufixTapes were used for the quantification.
Downloads
qr00239
or just scan the QR-Code!
User name: cossma5
Password: active
In addition skin blemishes such as
spots and redness required only one
month to become almost invisible (see
photo). The analysis here was carried
out with the help of standardised photographs and digital evaluation by a
dermatologist.
A consumer study ultimately carried out with 100 volunteer test subjects showed that the users felt their
skin to be once again clean, healthier,
fresher, having an attractive glow, and
less inflamed-looking – the perfect basis for an even complexion with a
healthy luminosity.
*The active substance, which also meets Chinese cosmetics regulations, (listed in CFDA 2007), is also suitable
for the Far Eastern market.
Further information can be found on the Internet
(see Internet panel)
Dr. Leslie Schlüter
Technical Marketing Manager
Sederma, Nettetal, Germany
[email protected]
www.sederma.fr
COSSMA 5 I 2014
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Facial rejuvenation …
… without invasive
treatment
E
photo: Lipotec
verybody wants to avoid
the signs of ageing – after all the face provides a
first visual impression. As the
face is daily exposed to external aggressors such as pollution and UV light, it is particularly susceptible to undesirable evidence of ageing. Thus,
there is a clear difference between the young and the not
so young.
The induced cellular damage normally accumulates and
leads to the expression of
facial macroscopic consequences, for example dehydration, volume loss, sagginess,
fine lines and/or wrinkles. Besides which some areas, such
as lips, are highly delicate and
easily show signs of deterioration. In a first visual contact,
lips are a major focus of attention only preceded by the eyes,
so these two areas are particuFive topical
ingredients
larly relevant in ameliorating
helping us all
the facial appearance. For exto appear young
ample, smoking lines are ageing wrinkles that etch vertically
from the upper lip to the nose,
although sometimes they even
appear in people around 30. The lip
volume also changes when getting oldMarta Rull from Lipotec
er, naturally diminishing, even if genetdescribes
five active ingrediics was not generous from the beginents
with
their
rejuvenating
ning. Thus, acting on lip volume and
benefits.
They
not
only complelook helps to produce a more attractive
ment surgery and injections
aspect.
Nowadays, there is a widespread
aimed at reducing the signs of
desire to improve one’s facial appearageing, but also directly act on
ance, either because of the changes invisible effects such as wrinkles,
duced by ageing or due to displeasure
roughness, nasogenian folds,
with one’s own features. This is the realipstick lines, sagginess and
son why beauty treatments are so
volume loss.
trendy. Surgery and non-surgical procedures (like injections) are common
12
COSSMA 5 I 2014
options to look younger, but
other alternatives are needed
if such treatments are considered to be too invasive. Topical cosmetics can offer rejuvenating benefits with a wide
range of active ingredients,
and with demonstrable in vivo
efficacy.
Solutions to minimise
the effects of ageing
Surgery is one of the most
radical solutions to erase or
hide signs of facial ageing but
it is highly invasive, presents
potential adverse effects and
it is expensive. Non-surgical
procedures such as injections,
laser treatments and abrasion
processes (peelings) are a less
invasive option. According to
the International Society of
Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons,
more than 8 million treatments with Botulinum Toxin A
and/or Hyaluronic Acid (HA)
injections were carried out
worldwide in 2011, accounting
for 61.4% of the non-surgical
procedures. This shows that
wrinkles and fine lines are an
extended concern that individuals are
keen to diminish.
Botulinum Toxin A injections rose
by 8% in the USA in 2012 in comparison to 2011, and the demand for HA as
a soft tissue filler jumped by 9% according to the 2012 American Society
of Plastic Surgeons report. Approved
by the FDA to treat crow’s feet in 2013,
Botulinum Toxin A use is expected to
maintain this trend in the coming
years, as well as the HA tendency. It
seems that although they need regular
intervals of application, and present
potential adverse effects, Botulinum
COS1405_12_Lipotec_GB_COS1305_10_Croda_D 28.04.14 09:29 Seite 13
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INGREDIENTS
Toxin A and HA are the stars when talking about plumping and filling.
Cosmetic products offer a less aggressive alternative to enhance youth
and beauty without invasive treatments, and they also prolong and complement the effects of HA or Botulinum
Toxin injections. However, not all
cosmetics are able to provide the same
efficacy.
Rejuvenation ingredients
with topical benefits
The cosmetics industry is continuously innovating to develop molecules
that target the source of several skin
care concerns. Studying all of the
body’s physiological processes,
Lipotec is able to design tailor-made
molecules to promote, inhibit or compete with the selected targets. Key
technologies such as combinatorial
chemistry, molecular modelling and
biotechnology are applied in trials using an unlimited source of active ingredients with proven efficacy to meet
every consumer need. Lifting, replenishing, redefining, plumping and volumizing effects are possible when applying the most suitable topical formulation with the most suitable active
ingredients.
To start with, Argireline peptide
(Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) is the first ingredient on the market, being a replica
of the N-terminal end of SNAP-25. It is
a safer alternative to Botulinum Toxin
for reducing the appearance of expression wrinkles. With a proven lifting effect, at a concentration of 2%, it diminished crow’s feet wrinkles in just 1 week
in vivo. The volume was reduced by
20.6% and length by 15.9%. Skin rough-
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ness and wrinkle depth were also decreased during further in vivo tests.
Second, the Uplevity peptide (Acetyl
Tetrapeptide-2) is designed to counteract the force of gravity and fight sagginess, especially in mature skin. It not
only increases functional elastin by
multiplying the levels of the two key
elements Lysyl Oxidase-Like 1 and
Fibulin 5 for their correct assembly, but
it also induces elastin and collagen
synthesis (extracellular matrix proteins essential for dermal firmness).
Besides, the expression of intracellular
compounds that facilitate cellular cohesion (focal adhesions), these, and
also collagen genes, were clearly regulated upwards. Measured in vivo by
ballistometry, it decreased the indentation by 9.5% and area parameter by
23.2%, which translates into a considerable rise in firmness. Besides, at a
concentration of 2% it diminished the
dermal fragmentation rate by nearly
40% after 55 days and thus improved
the quality of the reticular dermis.
Using the benefits of biotechnology, sustainability and the many aquatic habitats widely distributed around
the world, a great variety of active ingredients with potential skin care benefits can be obtained. From biotechnology the Hyanify marine ingredient
(Saccharide Isomerate) provides a re-
FOCUS: ACTIVES
plenishing effect, minimising the signs
of ageing by inducing HA synthesis in
fibroblasts. At a concentration of 1%
it decreased the maximum depth of
the nasogenian folds by 19.6% after
28 days.
Also obtained through biotechnology, the marine ingredient Seacode marine ingredient (Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract) raised
type I collagen synthesis, helping to reduce lipstick lines. At a concentration
of 2% a remarkable 16.5% decrease was
measured in only 1 week and a 25.1%
reduction was observed after the
4-week treatment, causing a visible
plumping effect.
Finally, at a concentration of 2% the
Hilurlip functional ingredient (Sodium
Hyaluronate, Tripeptide-1) increased
lip volume up to 30% in a month. This
active ingredient is an advanced way
of vehiculizing particles of sodium
hyaluronate to enhance their efficacy
and penetration. These small and homogenized particles swell when they
are in contact with the moisture of the
skin, producing a long-term volumizing
effect on the lips.
In a society where anti-ageing options are a trend topical formulations
can provide rejuvenating benefits
avoiding invasive treatments.
Additional illustrations can be found on the Internet –
see Internet panel
Marta Rull
Cristina Davi, Elena Cañadas
Juan Cebrián, Raquel Delgado
Lipotec owned by Lubrizol
Gavà, Spain
[email protected]
www.lipotec.com
COSSMA 5 I 2014
13
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Real innovation –
More than just creative
claims
Our future goal is
improved efficiency,
bio-availability and
commitment to nature
What, according to you, are the most
important trends in active ingredients at
the moment?
Christophe Paillet, Director Communication &
Customer Care, Exsymol: It is not easy to
mention a current trend
in active ingredients, as
trends are a matter of communication
and marketing. What makes a cosmetic active trendy is generally not the
active ingredient itself, but the marketing claims created by the brands.
It is clearly attractive to have marketing claims based on the scientifically proven activity of the product, and
recently it has been very trendy to
claim genomic occurrence or stem
cells. These claims come from active
ingredients somehow related to genes
or stem cells. However, the implications for cosmetic products are often
very futuristic and thus far ahead of
fundamental discoveries.
14
COSSMA 5 I 2014
In addition, some trends that have
been emerging for a couple of years are
based on solid scientific data, as for example glycation. Exsymol introduced
this anti-ageing concept to the market
more than a decade ago without any
reaction or feedback from the brands.
Slowly marketing teams and consumers, through education, have become aware of the fact that this phenomenon is responsible for important
skin damage. Nowadays, many products claim their anti-glycation activity,
and use appropriate active ingredients.
Exsymol offers various substantiated
active ingredients to combat glycation
and its effects on the skin*.
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photo: Africa Studio, Shutterstock.com
Christophe Paillet from Exsymol
clearly explains that innovative
marketing claims have nothing
to do with innovative ingredients.
One important trend at the moment
is all about natural ingredients, certified by various organisations and displaying certification badges or logos.
This, however, rarely has anything to
do with the activity of the ingredient,
as this type of logo is mainly related to
the origin of the ingredient, and not to
its activity. Also all commitments in
CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility)
and eco-responsibility are becoming
more and more appreciated. Exsymol
has been active in CSR for a couple of
years focusing on key actions such as
lowering the electricity consumption
by 30%, as well as reducing and recycling waste.
Last, but not least, an important
trend is, and will always be, the documented efficacy of the material.
As a conclusion, I see a growing gap
between very innovative and original
marketing claims and the trusted efficacy of ingredients that have proved to
be efficient in formulations for years.
What are the most innovative active
ingredients?
As a consequence of this gap between marketing and actual efficiency,
I would say that the innovation, in
terms of active ingredients, is not, and
cannot be so important. To complete
the development of a really new active
ingredient, a new molecule – no matter
if natural or not – can take a few years,
or even more. This is the reason why it
is difficult to expect real innovative active ingredients every fortnight. Thus,
after a major exhibition for active ingredients, such as In-Cosmetics, it is
COS1405_14_Exsymol_GB_COS1405_14_Exsymol_GB 25.04.14 07:56 Seite 15
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photo: Gts, Shutterstock.com
very common to
hear that nothing
really new appeared.
Again, all the
skills of the active
ingredients manufacturers, in collaboration with the
brands, is to find
the proper winning
team matching an
attractive (therefore innovative)
marketing claim,
with a safe and
strong active ingredient to guarantee
the efficacy.
Additionally, international reguFor ingredients to be innovative
being of natural origin is not enough
lations, such as
China’s restricted
approval system,
have a dramatic impact on innovation. This is why Exsymol focuses
more and more on “smart innovation“. The Silanol Technology generates innovations from our scientific expertise and fulfills the marketing requirements for new actives at the same time.
Could you please provide some examples of innovative ingredients?
Sorry, even if I try to think hard I cannot find examples of real innovative active molecules for the above-mentioned reason. However,
innovative concepts or marketing claims surely exist.
LO O K I N G T O
SOOTHE SKIN?
3 ways to innovation:
SYMBIOCELL
Improves the skin feel
Reduces reactivity
Reduces red patches
A BASF Beauty Creations product
So what trends do you expect for the future?
In my view future development will maintain its focus on product
efficacy and the concept of performance, but products will have to be
more and more scientifically based, more and more active, while
being more and more natural and eco-friendly. On the one hand, the
activity of the product, in relation to the identified mechanism of action, must be proved, not only in test tubes, but also its effect has to
be perceptible on its cutaneous site of action. The subsequent
bioavailability of the ingredient is highly important:
• the product must be stable in the skin for a reasonable period of
time (for instance, it must not be enzymatically metabolized)
• the product must reach its site of action (for instance a product
protecting or stimulating mitochondria must penetrate into the
cell)
Also performance should be improved by developing, not only
bio-similar or bio-mimetic products, but even bio-better, meaning
that the ingredient should be able to perform equally as well as, or
possibly even better than, nature.
We are well past the days when a cosmetic product, and subsequently a cosmetic ingredient, should only embellish, but neither
penetrate nor interfere with the cutaneous metabolism. It is now accepted that the cosmetic product, in order to be active, needs to penetrate the skin. The expert toxicologist is our guarantee of the product’s safety.
As a conclusion, future developments should focus on active ingredients displaying improved performance in terms of efficiency,
bioavailability, and a commitment to nature.
Additional information can be found on the Internet – see Internet panel
Interview partner: [email protected], www.exsymol.com
IBR-CalmDeAge™
Reduces pronounced skin reddening
(rosacea)
Has antioxidative capacity
Reduces wrinkles
An IBR product
EM B EL I A EX T R AC T
Reduces the release of neural messengers
and histamine
Minimizing skin discomfort
Reduces skin irritation
A Bayer Healthcare product
Distributed by
IMPAG Import GmbH
Fritz-Remy-Straße 25
D-63071 Offenbach am Main
Tel.: +49 (0) 69 850 008 - 0
Fax: +49 (0) 69 850 008 - 90
E-Mail: [email protected]
Web: www.impag.de
IMPAG Group Country Offices
Switzerland/Zurich – www.impag.ch
Germany/Offenbach – www.impag.de
France/Nancy – www.impag.fr
Poland/Warsaw – www.impag.pl
Austria / Vienna – www.impag.at
COS1405_Schubert_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.14 13:36 Seite 1
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TRANS
Rail based Transmodules are the central
element of a Schubert packaging system.
These transport robots autonomously guide
your products through all areas of the
interpack, Düsseldorf
08 – 14 May 2014
Hall 14 | A06
Welcome!
COS1405_Schubert_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.14 13:36 Seite 2
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MODUL
packaging system – ensuring positive control
through the entire process. Thus they open up
new dimensions: for flexibility and safety, for
operating comfort and efficiency.
The Transmodul
in action
Gerhard Schubert GmbH Verpackungsmaschinen
Industriegebiet Suedost, Hofaeckerstraße 7
74564 Crailsheim – Germany
youtu.be/
8MebAlfN7v8
www.gerhard-schubert.de
COS1405_18_Mintel_GB_COS1405_18_Mintel_GB 25.04.14 07:57 Seite 18
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FOCUS: ACTIVES PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
New International launches
This month Vivienne Rudd, head of Beauty and Personal Care
Insight at Mintel, presents a selection of products with innovative
active ingredients.
S
photos: Mintel
ister Diary Black Diamond Caviar
Mask is formulated with French
Sister Diary’s mask contains
French caviar extract and
black diamond mineral
Algotherm’s range is
formulated with four
types of algae
Perricone’s
peel for the
delicate eye
area offers
two powerful
yet gentle
actions
caviar extract rich in amino
acids, minerals, and polysaccharides
to help repair and moisturise the skin.
It also contains black diamond mineral
to help promote collagen production
and act on skin renewal, whilst leaving
the skin moisturised and whitened.
The skin-friendly mask with permeating properties retails in a pack containing soy oil and comprises ten 24 ml
masks.
The range Algotherm Age Performance AlgoTime Expert has been formulated with four types of algae: antiwrinkle Undaria pinnatifida, firming
Alaria esculenta, Ulva lactuca to redefine the contours of the face and Dictyopteris membranacea to offer an antidark spot action. All products retailing
in recyclable packs are suitable for sensitive skin, feature allergen-free fragrances, and are free from parabens
and phenoxyethanol. Available as part
of the range is the Marine Life Serum
Sérum de Vie Marine to moisturise
the skin.
Perricone MD Cosmeceuticals Blue
Plasma Orbital Daily Peel is a non-
Style Aromatherapy’s shampoo
contains argan oil with the strongest
antioxidant properties found in nature
The Physicians Formula foundation claims to make the user
look up to ten years younger
18
COSSMA 5 I 2014
acidic daily peel for the delicate eye
area, designed to offer two powerful
yet gentle actions: first it bio-specifically attacks only dead surface skin,
and secondly it hydro-fuses with enriched water to rebalance the skin’s hydration. The formula features Blue
Plasma technology, to deliver a 360°
approach to brighter-looking eyes, also
salmon egg enzyme, a bio-specific
peeling agent to restore radiance,
plankton extract for immediate tightening benefits and a reduction in puffiness, an anti-inflammatory licorice
derivative to soothe the eye, and
hyaluronic acid delivering hydration to
the skin. The product removes dead
skin cells without irritation, delivers
immediate tightening benefits and
reduces lines.
Style Aromatherapy Ancient Secrets
Moroccan Argan Shampoo is formulat-
ed with natural Moroccan argan oil and
borage seed oil to strengthen the hair
shaft and add volume and gloss, rebalancing the scalp while minimizing dryness, oiliness, and dandruff. The argan
oil is said to contain the strongest antioxidant properties found in nature,
and also has omega 6, omega 9, vitamin E and squalene content.
The Physicians Formula Youthful
Wear range is claimed to make the user
look up to ten years younger in an in-
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stant. It features formulations designed to help undo visible signs of
ageing, restoring firmness and elasticity and improving the skin’s long-term
appearance. Cosmeceutical YouthBoosting Spotless Foundation & Brush
SPF 15 features a new formulation
made with weightless foundation
serum. It is said to possess a skin-perfecting ultra-fluid foundation with 35%
silicone and true-colour pigments for
flawless coverage and an invisible, natural and weightless finish. The product, recommended by The Skin Cancer
Foundation, contains brightening cosmeceutical ingredients, Spotless Technology to erase up to 20 years of natural skin darkening and broad spectrum
SPF 15 to help prevent new spots or
discolorations.
Additional information can be found on the Internet see Internet panel
Vivienne Rudd
Head of Beauty and Personal
Care Insight, Mintel
London, UK
www.mintel.com
COS1405_Inolex_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.14 13:37 Seite 1
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LipFeel
Natural
™
Natural Advanced Fluid
for Lip Care
•
•
•
•
Superior shine
Smoother application
Higher moisturization
Odorless and tasteless
Percent Increase in Skin Gloss
After Lip Balm Application
Skin Gloss (%) Change
Immediately After Application
246.44
(%)
250
216.61
200
150
100
Lip Balm with Castor Oil
Lip Balm with LipFeel Natural
Discover the superior gloss of LipFeel Natural.
www.inolex.com
COS1405_20_Waltenberger_GB_COS1405_20_Waltenberger_GB 25.04.14 07:58 Seite 20
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MARKETING INTERVIEW
now located with a distributor, and no
longer with the manufacturer. This
gives the producers more room for
their own skills and competences, i.e.
the development and production of
functional ingredients.
Distributors have become important and have, as one of their tasks, the
job of maintaining direct communication with the marketplace and, as the
case may be, establishing a communications system and, in particular, to
look after small to medium sized
clients. These clients, in their turn, expect flexibility, technical knowledge
and, very often, assistance and back-up
in the question of matters covering legal licensing and product applications.
In addition clients want flexible and,
after discussion and agreement, a supply system and services that will meet
their requirements, which as a rule
they do enjoy.
Trading in ingredients – or producing them
The new role
of an ingredients
distributor
Ingredients distributors –
continually acting as the
trend scouts of the sector
The ingredients business has changed a lot in recent years.
Horst Waltenberger of NCD Ingredients here makes
it very clear that distributors are also on the constant
look-out for innovations.
What are the advantages of acquiring
ingredients from a distributor rather
than direct from a producer?
There are several advantages. The
most important is surely the fact that a
distributor is easier to get hold of, and
it is easier and faster for the clients to
talk to him, thanks to shorter communications routes. All of the big producers have driven their sales operations
departments down to a minimum.
The big ingredients producers work
directly with only about 10 to 15 per20
COSSMA 5 I 2014
cent of the biggest globally important
cosmetics manufacturers. This is what
they want, and everything else is
passed on to an independent distribution chain. In this way the ingredients
producers determine for their clients
how the sales departments and the
logistics are structured.
Overall this is not an actual mistake, and nor can it be put down to
arrogance, but it is simply a consequence of an intense customer-oriented operation. The customer service is
photo: Tania A., Shutterstock.com
What are the potential disadvantages?
Personally I see no basic disadvantages – at least not for the classic customer. Occasionally there is the question, in the minds of the clients, of a
possible additional dealership margin
to be paid, which could be removed if
they were to deal direct. But times have
changed. Today an efficient distributor
is often able to offer more attractive net
prices and, above all, a cost-effective
supply system, because his overheads
are lower, lots can be economically
bundled together, and the supply chain
of the core business ensures that this
is all covered. Furthermore there is
always a possible “win-win” situation
if one can be successful in pooling
clients’ requirements and to plan and
process orders over a longer time scale.
Partnerships always have something to
offer – if that’s what people want.
What demands and challenges have to
be met today by a distributor?
The cost of meeting legal requirements, as with normal operating costs,
continues to grow. As a rule it is impossible to pass these costs on directly to
the clients on a “one-for-one” basis,
which means that we have to keep
growing. And we can see this in the
market itself. We have been through a
stormy period in the distribution market in recent years, which means distribution companies are being taken
over, and at times built up by invest-
COS1405_20_Waltenberger_GB_COS1405_20_Waltenberger_GB 25.04.14 07:59 Seite 21
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INTERVIEW
ment bankers to the position of global
players. On the other hand here in Europe we still have plenty of well-established, owner-run medium sized companies. There are nevertheless still a
lot of companies in this business, including several amongst the producers. Today it is the case that companies
prefer to buy market share rather than
to build it up over the years. Take-overs
are at the same time opportunities and
risks. They cannot be accurately valued
and so are difficult to run.
But we still have to decide whether
we are talking purely about the distribution of chemicals or whether we are
involved in a specialist market as a
sector-oriented distribution partner. In
modern chemicals distribution today a
highly significant investment in infrastructure, safety, and the environment
is required. That is the underlying business model of the big companies and it
is there that, in my view, we strongly
differ.
In speciality and the sector-oriented business we invest first in human
resources, technical know-how and
technical marketing skills. These are at
times totally separate worlds. In the
speciality business there is still a lot of
room, because there is a lot of movement happening. Only those really active companies will win market share.
That‘s what I like about this business.
We can still move a lot of ground here,
even with smaller teams.
Has the position of distributors
changed a lot in recent years – and if so,
by how much?
As already mentioned a number of
highly qualified sales and applications
jobs have been moved from the producer to the distributor, as have the
logistics.
A distributor today must know a
great deal in order to be able to talk
about different ingredients and their
application in different formulations.
This means that we need interdisciplinary teams who know exactly what they
are talking about when discussing with
clients. They pay close attention to
developments, e.g. at congresses and
technical presentations.
MARKETING
Classical presentations are no
longer given only by ingredients suppliers, university research people or
consultants, but are now more and
more often given by distributors, who
do a thorough and competent job.
Speciality dealers today have plenty
of room to be versatile and flexible. Because it is they who have to seek out
new ingredients, and identify trends, it
is also they who strongly position innovations in the market place. In contrast to pure producers, who have to
limit their activities to the installations
that they have, it is distributors who
have to drive innovations ... which are
a good thing, because that is where
there is life.
Horst Waltenberger
Director Corporate Development
NCD Ingredients
Hanau, Germany
horst.waltenberger@
ncd-ingredients.de
www.ncd-ingredients.de
COS1405_22_Star_GB_COS1405_22_Star_GB. 25.04.14 08:00 Seite 22
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MARKETING PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Star
Active-free
beauty patch
of the Month
The experiment by Dove with a beauty patch containing no actives shows just
how subjectively the perception of beauty can impact on others, and so have
been chosen, as opponents to the beauty surgery trend, for our Star of the
Month.
R
etouched and reworked photographs of models today implytotally unrealistic beauty
ideals. So it’s no wonder that 80% of all women
are dissatisfied1 with their appearance. Surgical beauty operations can be
used to offer artificial
help, but do surgical
operations really offer
the solution to this
problem? Dove has
now shown to what extent an altered apPeople who already
believe themselves to
be beautiful also radiate
beauty
proach to one’s own beauty feelings can
make a difference. In a study carried out
by the psychologist and best-selling author Dr. Ann Kearney-Cooke the volunteer subjects were required to wear, for
two weeks, a tailor-made beauty patch
which was supposed to help them feel
more attractive.
During this time the volunteers
were also required to keep a record of
all of the potential life-changing events
or experiences. All of the volunteers
agreed that the beauty patch helped
them towards more self-confidence
and unexpected changes in their private lives.
The real bluff was the fact that none
of the beauty patches held any active
substances. “A woman who feels beautiful radiates a self-confidence that has
a significant effect on her life”, explains
Dr. Kearney-Cooke.
Based on the results of this experiment Dove wants to invite women to
create a world where beauty does not
have to be a worry factor but can be a
source of self-confidence. The brand
has set itself the target of, by the end of
2015, to reach 15 million young ladies
with their self-evaluation programming and so far has already reached
AM
12 million.
1
Global Dove Research: The Real Truth About Beauty:
Revisited (2011)
www.selfesteem.dove.ca
The video of this experiment and other Dove actions can
be found on the Internet (see Internet panel)
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Informative
Up with the times
++ LIVE–ONLINE–SEMINARS ++
www.cossma.com/webinars
Wherever you are!
This is how it works:
Register now at www.cossma.com/webinars for the
seminars that you are interested in.
During the seminar you will be able to put questions – LIVE –
to the speakers and other participants and so expand your
own knowledge and understanding in an interactive way!
Moderator
Up-coming COSSMA Webinar:
Chat
Paticipants
Monday, May 26th, 2 p.m.
(Berlin time)
Elfriede Dambacher
(naturkosmetik konzepte):
The European Natural Cosmetic Market
Audio + Camera Settings
Register today at: www.cossma.com/webinars
Hotline: +49 (0)721 165-131
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Germany
[email protected] Tel: +49 (0)721 165-131 Fax: +49 (0)721 165-103
COS1405_BASF_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.14 13:38 Seite 1
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Add more life to facial care with Cetiol® RLF
Our emollients, such as Cetiol® RLF, provide the moisturizing care that
keeps sensitive skin looking beautifully young for all women — not just
those in America. Cetiol® RLF — another Care Creations product
inspired by life.
carecreations.basf.com
Finding derived from a representative TNS market survey.
COS1405_24_News_Ingredients_GB_COS1405_24_News_Ingredients_GB 25.04.14 08:18 Seite 24
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NEW INGREDIENTS
NEWS
Gold Awards at In-Cosmetics 2014
Ingredients
Cost-effective natural
film former
Mantrose-Haeuser I Poly-Soleil is a natural food grade polymer that can be formulated directly into alcohol-based systems or neutralized
and incorporated into a water or hydro-alcoholic
phase. It provides an enhanced water-resistant
film with a non-sticky, smooth skin feel and
strong rub-off properties keeping the active ingredients on the skin. The new bio-polymer film former passes the FDA 80 minute water resistance
test in an SPF 50 sunscreen spray formulation at
concentration levels as low as 0.5% as demonstrated in recent tests conducted at Ama Laboratories. Additional tests for extended 4-hour water
resistance and trans-epidermal water loss
(TEWL) with rub-off were also successful. The
film former can be used for sunscreen sprays,
creams, lotions and moisturizers.
www.mantrose.com
Bio-polymer
film former
with proven
water-resistance
In-Cosmetics 2014 in Hamburg I In-Cosmetics was in April in Hamburg, and
this year returned to Germany for the first time in five years. It was the most successful
In-Cosmetics in the show’s history outside of Paris, attracting a total of 7,260 unique
visitors. Over 2,158 German visitors made up 30% of the total attendance, more than
double the number of German visitors at any other In-Cosmetics show.
Gattefossé scooped the Gold award in this year’s Innovation Zone Awards, for the
development of Emulium Mellifera, a new generation of PEG-free emulsifiers that
auto-adapts to skin type and climate to produce a white and luxurious emulsion. The
Silver Award was presented to Induchem for Redensyl, a new hair growth reinforcer
which targets the hair follicles’ stem cells, and the Bronze Award went to Lipotec’s
Argirelox peptide, which is directed at reducing expression lines by modulating
muscle contraction.
Alban Muller International took home the top honour in the new Green Ingredient
Award (in association with Organic Monitor) for its Scurvy Grass Extract, a 100% natural extract of the Scurvy Grass plant, which is rich in the anti-ageing agent Vitamin C. The Silver winner was Minasolve with MinaCare Pentiol Green+, a new version
of pentylene glycol that is produced from renewable vegetable raw materials.
The Bronze Award went to Akott with Akosky Apium, a hydrosoluble celery cell
culture extract which in vitro is very
efficient in stimulating pro-collagen I
and III, and fibronectin.
Ashland, Croda and KPT were also
announced as winners of the Beiersdorf Innovation Pitch, while the
Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine
R&D Best New Award went to Silab.
In celebration of the year of collaboration between Germany and Brazil,
a new Country Focus feature, sponsored by Beraca, provided an insight
into Brazil’s personal care market –
the third biggest world market for
cosmetics and toiletries. A Brazil
Product Trail guided visitors to exhibitor stands from Clariant, Chemyunion and Kobo where new products or formulations that use ingredients inspired by, or sourced from,
Brazil were on display. The Brazil Exhibitor Pavilion was supported by
ABIHPEC. The winners of the Innovation Zone Awards
photos: In-Cosmetics
PRODUCTION
www.in-cosmetics.com
(above) and the Green Ingredient Award (below)
Check in now for the COSSMA natural cosmetics “Webinar”
Natural cosmetics Webinar on May 26th I As a part of a free-of-charge COSSMA Webinar Elfriede Dambacher, who has been an industry specialist in natural cosmetics for a number of years, will be giving us an incisive overview of the natural cosmetics business at 14.00h on
May 26th, 2014. She will talk about how the market in Europe has developed into a core business and points to where she sees future trends.
Because the number of participants is limited please book in today for the English language
Webinar “The European natural cosmetics market – What are the challenges?” Further
information is available at www.cossma.com/webinars.
Elfriede Dambacher is the publisher of the Natural Cosmetics Yearbook which has now appeared 6 times, and also the Natural Cosmetics Monitor which gives us a quarterly overview
Moderator
of the whole natural cosmetics market, including developments
in regional markets and all of the potential sales chains. In addition she reports on collaboration with the Vivaness natural cosmetics exhibition and the Natural Cosmetics Congress
planned for October the 7th and 8th, 2014, in Berlin.
www.cossma.com/webinars, www.naturkosmetik-verlag.de
Chat
Paticipants
Audio + Camera Settings
Now at www.cossma.com/
webinars you can book your
place for the exclusive natural
cosmetics seminar
24
COSSMA 5 I 2014
Elfriede Dambacher at the live,
on-line seminar gives an insight
into the development of the international natural cosmetics
market
COS1405_24_News_Ingredients_GB_COS1405_24_News_Ingredients_GB 25.04.14 08:01 Seite 25
www.cossma.com
NEW INGREDIENTS
PRODUCTION
Brown algae power beats
cellulite and age spots
Worlée I Whether the aim is thickening, forming a suspension or
stabilising, the liquid acrylate dispersion WorléeAqua Thix 100 can
be used in a range of rinse-off products. It can be combined with almost all of the current ionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants and
can be used with numerous additives as well as care polymers.
The easy to handle ASE thickener and rheology modifier stabilises
insoluble and hard to stabilise ingredients such as silicones or oils,
even in low viscosity formulations. Using WorléeBeads HCO and
WorléeBeads Jojoba exfoliants can be produced, and the impact of
pearlised pigments
and special effect pigmensts is enhanced. In
shower gels, shampoos and other cleansing products the dispersion has a thickening effect and improves the flow characteristics and storage
life of the relevant product.
At a pH value of >6
highly transparent
cleansing products
can be formulated. The
new thickener can also
be cold-processed
without the need for a
special stirring device.
NCD Ingredients I The AlgeaEsthe Powder
and Cream products from the Norwegian company
Algea are obtained from the brown algae Ascophyllum nodosum. This marine product contains different
substances such as iodine, minerals, polyphenols,
phlorotannins, carotinoids and polysaccharides,
which are of interest in anti-ageing products. The clinically tested products are particularly suitable in combating cellulite and age spots.
www.worlée.de
photo: Dimos, Shutterstock.com
photo: Worlée
Rheology modifier and thickener
for rinse-off products
The versatile range of ingredients in the brown algae
are of interest in anti-ageing products
YOU THINK IT.
WE MIX IT.
www.grafe.com
MASTERBATCHES WORLDW IDE
GRAFE unterstützt Preisträger des
Thüringer Kreativ-Radar.
www.bykaim.de
COS1405_26_Kuehn_GB_COS1405_26_Kuehn_GB 25.04.14 08:02 Seite 26
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PRODUCTION
PACKAGING
Packaging materials for cosmetics
photo: Kubais, Shutterstock.com
Special demands
Does cosmetics packaging also come under the draft printing ink decree,
which forbids the use of mineral oil inks?
In view of the fact that the packaging materials used for cosmetics are the
subject of ever-closer control, and an extensive list of criteria may well apply,
here Dr. Andrea Kühn of Wala sheds some light on the present situation.
P
rimary packaging materials for
cosmetics have to be carefully
developed or must be selected
from amongst materials already on the
market. A basic requirement of packaging is the protection of the contents of
the pack. In particular there must be an
adequate barrier against water vapour,
UV light, oxygen and CO2. Furthermore
it must be assured that no components
or ingredients of the packaging can migrate into the product, and there must
be no adsorption or absorption of
components from the product into the
packaging.
In addition the packaging must be
non-hazardous, i.e. it must not contain
any toxic substances, as well as not being capable of transmitting any substance into the product which may be
in a potentially toxic concentration.
26
COSSMA 5 I 2014
Furthermore the packaging material
must be suitable for routine processing; the required output and a constant
quality level have to be ensured.
Legal requirements
for cosmetics packaging
It may be necessary to add some effective type of device to prevent fraudulent or counterfeit copying, as well as
childproof packaging, especially where
it is required for medicinal products
and, in the case of natural cosmetics,
ecological credentials and sustainability of the packaging can be highly
relevant. Further aspects to consider
are functionality, convenience and
other demands related to the specific
market.
The packaging requirements for
cosmetics and medicinal products for
topical application* have some similarity, but there are also important
differences.
Cosmetics packaging materials are,
according to §2 para. 6 No. 2 of the
German food law, regarded as items for
daily and common use11. Equally packaging for foodstuffs are considered to
be items for daily and common use in
the sense of the above legislation, and
for which in Germany the so-called
Bedarfsgegenstände (daily needs) legislation is valid. Within the EU, the two
EU regulations 10/20115 und 1935/
20043 are required to be used when
talking about food packaging. The
above-mentioned regulations however
do not refer to packaging for cosmetics. In the absence of any other official
guidelines these regulations are however frequently used in practice to
check the conformity of the packaging,
i.e. cosmetics packaging materials are
compared with and judged against
foodstuffs packaging.
The EU regulation 1223/2009 on
cosmetic products demands the following in Annex I (cosmetic product
safety report): “Information about the
packaging material: The relevant characteristics of packaging material, in
particular purity and stability“12. There
are no further concrete demands in the
regulation on cosmetic products. This
safety evaluation is a basic part of the
product information file. Therefore it
can be checked by the food control
agency. The supplier company also will
often confirm, in the shipping documentation, that the packaging material
conforms to Article 17 of the regulation
on cosmetic products.
Article 17 states that „the non-intended presence of a small quantity
(traces) of a prohibited substance (prohibited in cosmetic products according
to Annex II of the regulation on cosmetic products), stemming from (...) migration from packaging, which is technically unavoidable in good manufacturing
practice, shall be permitted provided
that such presence is in conformity with
Article 3“. Article 3 of the regulation on
cosmetic products states that “a cosmetic product made available on the
market shall be safe for human health
when used under normal or reasonably
foreseeable conditions of use”.
Examples of substances that are
listed in Annex II of the European regulation on cosmetic products, and
www.cossma.com
PACKAGING
which could be found in packaging materials, include bisphenol A, plasticisers such as dibutyl phthalate, certain
mineral oil fractions, e.g. coming from
printing inks, such as MOAHs (Mineral
Oil Aromatic Hydrocarbons) etc.
For pharmaceutical packaging
made from plastic, extractables/leachables studies are carried out in certain
cases.
By leachables one refers to ingredients of the packaging materials that,
during the lifetime of the product, may
migrate into the contents of the pack.
By extractables one refers to ingredients of the packaging that can be extracted under high-stress laboratory
conditions (e.g. high temperatures,
use of organic solvents as the extraction medium).
When packaging for cosmetics is
concerned the extractables/leachables
data tests are usually only carried out
where the absence of certain undesirable substances (e.g. phthalates) is not
specifically mentioned in the suppliers
data sheets, or substances with a
specified migration limit are present
(see below).
How does one define
“traces”?
The term traces can be specified following to the regulation on plastic materials 10/2011. The categories here
are the overall migration limit (OML),
specific migration limit (SML) and total
specific migration limit ((SML(T)).
According to regulation 10/2011,
SML means the maximum permitted
amount in mg/kg of a given substance
released from a material or article into
food or food simulants.
Using this test medium (food simulant) it is possible to measure the migration level of substances from food
contact materials. Specific features of
the medium such as lipohilic and hydrophilic properties, acidity or alkalinity are taken into account.
For substances for which no specific migration limit or other restrictions
are provided in Annex I of regulation
10/2011 a generic specific migration
limit of 60 mg/kg shall apply.
SML(T) is the maximum permitted
sum of particular substances, e.g. a specific substance group such as plasticisers, released in food or food simulants
expressed as total of moiety (in mg/kg)
of the substances indicated. According
PRODUCTION
to regulation 10/2011 the OML means
the maximum permitted amount of
non-volatile substances that may be released from a material or article into
food simulants. It is set to 10 mg per
dm2 of food contact surface area.
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For plastic materials and articles intended to be brought into contact with
food for infants and young children the
OML is set to 60 mg/kg. It is not tied to
the surface area of the packaging. The
reason for this is that, in the case of
small packages, where the surface to
volume ratio is higher, the resulting
migration into food is also increased.
Examples of restricted
substances
The use of bisphenol A (BPA) is forbidden within the EU, in line with regulation 10/2011, in the production of
feeding bottles for babies. Other than
this, for use in foodstuffs, a total migration value of 0.6 mg/kg13 is specified in
regulation 10/2011.
With reference to mineral oils,
which may arise, for example, from
sources such as printing inks and packaging made from recycled materials,
there are plans by the German food,
agriculture and consumer protection
ministry (BMELV) for a mineral-oil and
a printing ink regulation14,15 to be applied in the area of foodstuffs. The draft
of this printing ink regulation foresees
a ban on the future use of mineral-oil
based inks on foodstuffs packaging.
According to the second draft of the
mineral-oil regulation14 aromatic mineral oil hydrocarbons (MOAHs) with
a number of carbon atoms between
10 and 25 must not migrate into foodstuffs. No concrete limit of detection
has been specified so that the result of
the analysis is, amongst other things,
dependent on the analytical procedure
being used and its particular limit of
detection.
Supplier qualifications and
approvals
The relevant GMP guideline for cosmetics manufacturing is DIN EN ISO
22716. When purchasing packaging 쑺
Luxurious
ampoules packaging for
the cosmetics industry
If the substances are of highest quality, the
packaging should be ambitious as well. An extraordinary customized printing of our ampoules,
made of clear and amber glass, again improves
visually the contents of your ampoules. The use of
special designed trays for e.g. the bathroom
guarantees an optimum storage and protection of
your luxurious ampoules.
We are at your service for any assistance you
may need for your individual packing solutions.
t us:
Please visi
14, Munich
20
ne
Ju
5-6
th D10
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o
B
,
2
Hall
Lutz GmbH & Co. KG
Am Stammholz 11 · 97877 Wertheim / Germany
Phone (+49 93 42) 96 07-0 · Fax (+49 93 42) 96 07-20
e-mail: [email protected]
www.lutz-packaging.de
COS1405_Sabinsa_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.14 13:39 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
www.cossma.com
PACKAGING
PRODUCTION
materials one has to decide for specific suppliers. These suppliers
can be suitably qualified using, amongst other things, questionnaires, Certificates of Quality (COQs) and, where necessary, audits.
Cosmetics packaging suppliers are often just dealers and detailed
information can sometimes be difficult to obtain, especially if the
packaging comes from the Far East.
In accordance with the above-mentioned DIN standard the packaging material should be checked and approved by the appropriately trained personnel. This approval must be performed at the time of
goods inwards on the basis of supplier certificates and, if necessary,
by carrying out tests on samples from the shipment.
The batch-documentation covering each delivery must, in accordance with the EU directive on product liability 85/374/EG, be retained for 10 years after the product is put onto the market.
The Acceptable Quality Levels (AQLs) and the extent of sampling
should be bilaterally agreed. This usually happens according to
defect evaluation lists from the Editio Cantor Verlag (ECV)17 and can
be displayed in the form of limit boards where the type of failure,
sample quantity and AQLs are clearly shown.
Certain parameters, such as text, colour etc. are often 100%
checked by the supplier with an in-line camera system. Expensive destructive testing, such as the measurement of the hydrolytic resistance or the breaking force of glass ampoules, is normally carried out
on a sample basis.
The supplier confirms, on the delivery certificate, that the agreed
quality has been checked and that the shipment is in line with that
quality.
At the client’s goods inwards facility, or that of his sub-contractor,
the packaging material is mostly checked based on the suppliers
sample testing with regard to appearance (text, colour), product
integrity, and, where necessary, level of microbiological quality. To
check on the analytical quality it is possible, for instance, to identify
the plastic using infra-red or, in the case of glass, to confirm the
hydrolytic class.
With a good working knowledge of the supplier and extensive
experience (10 out of 10 problem-free deliveries) a less intense level
of testing or a skip-lot procedure can be adopted18.
It is also important that reports on the routine manufacturing
processes coming from the production department are taken into account. In certain unusual circumstances it may well become necessary to increase the sampling frequency or to carry out more detailed
quality sampling. If an unacceptable quality situation cannot be corrected then the supplier of the packaging material is obliged to stop
delivery until an acceptable solution is identified and applied.
Faced with a background of growing demands being placed on
cosmetics packaging it is certainly a necessary step to look closely at
one’s own products. The first steps here are, among other things, the
acquisition of the appropriate documents described above, as well
as the recently released IKW (The German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association) documents concerning the safety evaluation of cosmetics packaging.
Source: a presentation by the author as part of the APV seminar: ”What is the real difference between topically applied pharmaceuticals and cosmetic products, and what do they have in common?” given on 7.11.2013
*Further information on the legal requirements for pharmaceutical packaging and a literature list
can be found on the Internet (see Internet panel)
Dr. Andrea Kühn
Head of quality control – packaging materials –
Wala Heilmittel
Bad Boll/Eckwälden, Germany
[email protected]
www.wala.de
For the touch of
luxury in glass
packaging
COS1405_30_Marktuebersicht_GB_COS1405_30_Marktuebersicht_GB 25.04.14 08:03 Seite 30
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PRODUCTION
MARKET SURVEY
Processing, packaging
and laboratory services
Here it is, once again – our fully updated version of the market survey listing suppliers of services and products
offered to you in the fields of processing, packaging and laboratory services. This market survey shows at a glance
which products and/or services the listed suppliers have in their range.
T
he range covered by the listed companies is extensive. Beginning with
measurement, testing and analysis
devices, equipment for laboratory and
development departments, mixing, dosing
and transporting equipment, weighing,
packaging and labelling machinery, filling
lines and right through to software and
services. The main service and/or products
of each company is clearly indicated.
A big advantage is the presentation of
e-mail addresses enabling you to make
rapid and direct contact.
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Market survey process technology
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Would you like to be listed in our next issue with details of your
own company’s products and services? Then just fill in the form
now, at www.cossma.com/marketsurvey to be in the next market survey.
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Adept Pure Water Ltd, [email protected], www.adeptpwt.co.uk
AISA Automation Industrielle, [email protected], www.aisa.com
Allweiler GmbH, [email protected], www.allweiler.de
Anton Paar GmbH, [email protected], www.anton-paar.com
density meter DMA M
BGS Beta Gamma Service GmbH, [email protected], www.bgs.eu
radiation sterilization
Brookfield Engineering, [email protected]
www.brookfieldengineering.com
viscometers, rheometers
Bühler AG, [email protected], www.buhlergroup.com
three-roll mills
Bürkle GmbH, [email protected], www.buerkle.de
laboratory equipment
CiK Solutions GmbH, [email protected], www.cik-solutions.com
temperature
Coptis, [email protected], www.coptis.com
CoptisLab formulation software
bo
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La
No
ure
Me
Company, e-mail, website
water purification equipment
tube packaging production machinery
COURAGE + KHAZAKA, [email protected], www.courage-khazaka.de
skin testing equipment
Creative Developments Creativity Software, [email protected]
www.creative-developments.co.uk
software, consulting
DERMATEST GmbH, [email protected], www.dermatest.de
dermatological + clinical Tests
Dinkelberg analytics GmbH, [email protected], www.dinkelberg.de
Ebbecke Verfahrenstechnik GmbH, [email protected]
www.ebbecke-verfahrenstechnik.de
micronisation, milling, contract services
Ecobliss Blister Packaging, [email protected], www.ecobliss.com
transparent boxes
EKATO SYSTEMS GmbH, [email protected], www.unimix.de
mixing technology
Felten GmbH [email protected], www.felten-group.com
Fisher Scientific GmbH Thermo Fisher Scientific, [email protected]
www.de.fishersci.com
complete laboratory equipment
Flux Geraete GmbH, [email protected], www.flux-pumpen.de
pumps
Fritsch GmbH, [email protected], www.fritsch.de
milling, particle analysis
FRYMAKORUMA GmbH, [email protected], www.frymakoruma.com
vacuum processing unit Frymix
30
COSSMA 5 I 2014
COS1405_30_Marktuebersicht_GB_COS1405_30_Marktuebersicht_GB 25.04.14 08:03 Seite 31
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PRODUCTION
MARKET SURVEY
me
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Gebr. Lödige Maschinenbau GmbH, [email protected], www.loedige.de
mixing granulator
Gerhard Schubert GmbH, [email protected], www.gerhard-schubert.de
modular packaging systems ”Transmodul”
GS Computersysteme GmbH, [email protected], www.gscomputersysteme.de
ERP software for cosmetic
products & distribution
Hauser Maschinen e.K., [email protected], www.hauser-maschines.com
used machinery
HNP Mikrosysteme GmbH, [email protected], www.hnp-mikrosysteme.de
micro metering pump
HydroBiomed GmbH & Co. KG, [email protected], www.hydrobiomed.de
water desinfection
IKA Werke GmbH & Co KG, [email protected], www.ika.net
mixing plants
Jessberger GmbH, [email protected], www.jesspumpen.de
pumps
JOVIS enterprises ltd. , [email protected], www.jovis.ch
THE DRUID
formulation & regulatory software
Klar Partner AG, [email protected], www.klar-partner.de
formulation management & software
Krüss GmbH, [email protected], www.kruss.de
tensiometer, interfacial rheology
laborhandel24.de, [email protected], www.laborhandel24.de
LINNEMANN GMBH, [email protected], www.linnemann-online.de
pipe connections
Linx Printing Technologies Ltd, [email protected], www.linxglobal.com
coding
LRHQ Dr. Mertineit-Heinz, [email protected], www.lrhq.de
safety assessments
Lutz Pumpen GmbH, [email protected], www.lutz-pumpen.de
innovative pumps
Mettler Toledo Produktinspektion Deutschland, [email protected], www.mt.com/pi
product inspection
Norden GmbH, [email protected], www.nordenpac.de
tube filling lines
OFRU Recycling GmbH + Co. KG, [email protected], www.ofru.com
solvent-recycling systems
Optima Consumer GmbH, [email protected], www.optima-consumer.com
filling and packaging machines
Pamasol Willy Mäder AG , [email protected], www.pamasol.com
Pollard Boxes Ltd., [email protected], www.pollardboxes.co.uk
QSI Quality Services International GmbH, [email protected], www.qsi-q3.de
R. Weiss Verpackungtechnik GmbH & Co. KG, [email protected], www.r-weiss.de
toploading machines UNIROB
Rationator-Maschinenbau GmbH, [email protected], www.rationator.de
flexible packaging lines
Robert Bosch GmbH Packaging Technology
[email protected], www.bosch.com
Rychiger AG, [email protected], www.rychiger.com
Yes
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Company, e-mail, website
packaging
Sage Software GmbH, [email protected], www.sage.de
ERP
Schwarze Automation GmbH, [email protected]
www.schwarze-automation.com
stickpack machines
Sonotronic Nagel GmbH, [email protected], www.sonotronic.de
ultrasonic sealing technology
Symex Misch- und Anlagentechnik GmbH & Co. KG, [email protected], www.symex.de
Symex Schröder & Boos Misch- u. Anlagentechnik GmbH, [email protected], www.symex.de
mixing & production technology
Sympatec GmbH, [email protected], www.sympatec.com
particle measurement
Troostwijk Veilingen B.V., [email protected], www.Troostwijkauctions.com
industrial auctions
Watson Marlow Pumps GmbH, [email protected], www.watson-marlow.de
peristaltic pumps
WGFV e.V. , [email protected], www.wgfv.de
unit load retention
Winopal Forschungsbedarf, [email protected], www.winopal.com
material testing, rheology,
volume measurement
X-Rite Europe GmbH, [email protected], www.xrite.com
color management solutions
COSSMA 5 I 2014
31
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PRODUCTION
MARKET SURVEY
Processing, packaging
and laboratory services
BGS Beta Gamma Service GmbH
Fritz-Kotz-Str. 16
51674 Wiehl
Germany
Phone: +49 (0) 2261 7899-0
Fax.: +49 (0) 2261 7899-45
[email protected]
www.bgs.eu
Radiation Sterilizations
Brookfield Engineering
11 Commerce Boulevard
Middleboro, MA 02346, USA
Phone +1 (0)508 946-6200
Fax. +1 (0)508 946-6262
[email protected]
www.brookfieldengineering.com
Viscometers, Rheometers
Courage+Khazaka
electronic GmbH
Mathias-Brüggen-Str. 91
50829 Cologne
Germany
Tel +49 (0)221-9564990
Fax +49 (0)221-9564991
[email protected]
www.courage-khazaka.de
Skin testing equipment
DERMATEST GmbH
Engelstr. 37
48143 Münster
Germany
Phone: +49 (0) 251 48822 49
Fax: +49 (0) 251 49027 27
[email protected]
www.dermatest.de
Dermatological + Clinical Tests
Ebbecke Verfahrenstechnik GmbH
Keltenstraße 16
63486 Bruchköbel
Germany
Phone: +49 (0) 6181 / 189096-0
Fax: +49 (0) 6181 / 189096-20
[email protected]
www.ebbecke-verfahrenstechnik.de
micronisation, milling, contract services
Gerhard Schubert GmbH
Verpackungsmaschinen
Industriegebiet Südost
Hofäckerstraße 7
74564 Crailsheim
Germany
Phone: +49 (0) 7951 / 400 - 0
Fax: +49 (0) 7951 / 85 88
[email protected]
modulare packaging systems ”Transmodul”
32
COSSMA 5 I 2014
Optima Consumer GmbH
Geschwister-Scholl-Str. 89
74523 Schwäbisch Hall, Germany
Phone: +49 (0) 791 94606-0
Fax: +49 (0) 791 94606-3019
[email protected]
www.optima-consumer.com
filling and packaging machines
GS Computersysteme GmbH
Raiffeisenstr. 13
74385 Pleidelsheim
Germany
Phone: +49 (0) 7144 - 80 44 0
Fax: +49 (0) 7144 - 80 44 80
[email protected]
www.gscomputersysteme.de
ERP-Sofware for cosmetic production +
distribution
Pamasol Willy Mäder AG
Driesbüelstrasse 2
8808 Pfäffikon SZ, Schweiz
Phone +41 (0) 55 417 40 40
Fax +41 (0) 55 417 40 44
[email protected], www.pamasol.com
Rationator-Maschinenbau GmbH
Alsheimer Straße 1
67586 Hillesheim / Rheinhessen, Germany
Phone: +49 (0) 6733 9470-0
Fax: +49 (0) 6733 9470-109
[email protected]
www.rationator.de
flexible packaging lines
HHAC Labor Dr. Heusler GmbH
Contact:
Manuela Pfleger
Hindenburg Str. 33
76297 Stutensee
Germany
Phone: +49 (0) 7249913020
Fax: +49 (0) 72499130299
[email protected]
www.hhac.de
Analysis of raw materials + finished products
Klar Partner AG
Promenade 3-9
52076 Aachen
Germany
Phone:+49 (0) 2408 9509-0
Fax: +49 (0) 2408 9509-29
[email protected]
www.klar-partner.de
Formulation management + Software
Krüss GmbH
Borsteler Chaussee 85-99a
22453 Hamburg
Germany
Tel: +49 (0) 40 5144 01
Fax: +49 (0) 40 5144 98
[email protected]
www.kruss.de
tensiometer, interfacial rheology
Symex Schröder & Boos
Misch- und Anlagentechnik GmbH & Co. KG
Lengstr. 10, 27572 Bremerhaven, Germany
Phone: +49 (0) 471 984010
Fax: +49 (0) 471 9840140
[email protected], www.symex.de
mixing & production technologies
QSI Quality Services
International GmbH
Flughafendamm 9a
28199 Bremen, Germany
Phone: +49 (0) 421 594770
Fax: +49 (0) 421 594771
[email protected], www.qsi-q3.de
Troostwijk Auktionen GmbH &
Co. KG Troostwijk Veilingen B.V.
Stolberger Straße 313
50933 Köln, Germany
Phone: +49 (0) 221 69 06 60
Fax: +49 (0) 221 69 06 610
[email protected]
[email protected]
www.Troostwijkauctions.com
Industry auctions (used machinery)
Winopal Forschungsbedarf
Bahnhofstraße 42
31008 Elze, Germany
Phone: +49 (0) 5068-99990-10
Fax: +49 (0) 5068-99990-19
[email protected], www.winopal.com
material testing, rheology, volume measurement
COS1405_Makeup_Paris_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.14 13:39 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
COS1405_34_Pack_News_GB_COS1405_34_Pack_News_GB 25.04.14 08:23 Seite 34
www.cossma.com
PACKAGING NEWS
NEWS
Small ... but “wow!”
Interpack 2014 also has something up
its sleeve for the cosmetics industry
photo: Interpack
More than 1,160 companies at this year‘s Interpack have products
or services of interest to
the cosmetics industry
Interpack I From May the 8th to the 14th some 2,700 exhibitors from
about 60 countries will be occupying 19 halls (or around some 174,000
square metres) at the Interpack in Düsseldorf where they will be presenting their wares to all sectors of industry.
Of the above exhibitors there will be more than 1,160 companies with
something in their portfolios for the cosmetics industry.
The new event being run in parallel with the exhibition, with a daily programme of talks and discussions, will be taking place in the Congress
Center South (CCD Süd) from May the 8th to the 10th, and is entitled
Components for processing and packaging. Here there will be 75 exhibitors presenting their services as suppliers to the packaging sector. In
addition the exhibition will include companies that offer drive and control
systems, sensors of various types, products for industrial image processing, handling technology, industrial software and communications equipment, as well as complete automation systems for packaging machinery.
The special subject of metal packaging at the Metal Packaging Plaza in
Hall 11, which will take place this year for the first time, will put the metal
packaging sector and its suppliers in the spotlight and will allow about
40 companies to have an information platform with forum, bar/lounge
and confidential meeting points.
www.interpack.de, www.packaging-components.de
Nail polish at affordable prices
PKB I PKB’s Eko Nail Varnish is an inexpensive filling and capping machine specifically for nail varnish. As its filling circuit is dedicated to nail varnish, it optimizes the circuit recharging in order to
counter the effects of elasticity and deformation of the product
(thick fluid and small dose). It allows filling without damaging glitter
particles as well as a good dose distribution in all bottles. For manufacturers dealing with short runs it offers the advantage of toolfree changeovers taking less than 40 seconds, and a quick cleaning time. Its output is up to 50 bpm and it is a reliable machine particularly suitable as an entry-level device.
www.pkb.fr, Interpack, Hall 16, Stand D13
photo: PKB
The inexpensive machine is suitable as an
entry-level machine,
even for nail varnish
with glitter particles
34
photos: P360˚
Events
P360˚ I Today’s trend seems to be away from huge, difficult to
cover properly, exhibitions and more toward the smaller events
where there is a lot less time lost wandering around looking for
what one actually needs. As early as 1995 a number of packaging companies clubbed together to tackle this trend and establish the Service Pack Forum, holding smaller exhibitions, perhaps in a hotel, several times a year, where they could use these
regional events to attract their specific clients.
The P360˚ event, also known as “Packaging Ideas”, is in effect a
relaunch of this initiative which involves an overall concept, with
a small exhibition, an inclusive evening dinner or show in a special location and so creating an attractive event.
This idea was premiered on April 10th 2014 in the Schwetzinger
Schloss near Heidelberg, Germany. The event, supported by
12 companies, attracted more than 60 customers. The exhibitors
included Ballerstaedt with their safety closures and devices; the
carton printers and packers Knapp; JG, with their foil lamination
and flexodruck printing; Multitubes, the manufacturer of PE and
laminated tubes in conventional or digital printed options; Rosa
Heinz with cosmetics and pharmaceuticals packaging; Packit
with their packaging combinations for cosmetics; Talis with
self-adhesive labels; Vogt with print communication; Stäger with
Successful exhibition with an evening event in the
Schwetzinger Schloss
clear, transparent retail cartons, circular cans and jars, and thermoformed packaging; Cosmetic Art Production as contract
manufacturers and developers; Pacplast Thermoform with plastic and aluminium foils; and PTG for packaging of cosmetics,
foodstuffs, pharmaceuticals and medicinal products.
www.p360grad.de
10th Cosmetic
Business in Munich
CosmeticBusiness I When 370 exhibitors and brands from
the home market and from abroad come on June the 5th and 6th
2014 to the Cosmetic Business, the technical exhibition for the suppliers to the cosmetics industry, there will be, amongst other things,
counter displays, new packaging products and materials, new caps,
decorative techniques, and other packaging developments which
will be shown for the first time at a German exhibition, such as, for
example, Roeser. This allows any CMYK colour combination to be
reproduced in photographic quality. The
contact-free print
process allows printing on large areas and
printing on uneven
surfaces. If required
clear lacquer can be
added to produce a
high gloss effect.
Non-contact printing process for large
www.cosmetic-business.com
www.roeser-decoration.com
COSSMA 5 I 2014
areas and uneven surfaces
photo: Roeser_Digitaldruck
PRODUCTION
쑺
356-14_EA_BF_connect_A4_engl 24.04.14 11:33 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
BEAUTY FORUM
MUNICH
Europes No. 1 au
tumn cosmetics
trade fair
25th, 26th Octob
er 2014
Munich Internat
ional Trade Fair
LOOKING FOR
A PARTNER?
BEAUTY FORUM connect – your b2b networking &
matching tool!
The big PLUS:
쑺 Find national and international distributors and
business partners – fast and efficient
쑺 Global marketing via the BEAUTY FORUM media
network
쑺 Automatical matching of supply and demand
BEAUTY FORUM connect – free of charge for
exhibitors of 29th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH
FOR MORE INFORMATION JUST
SCAN QR CODE.
www.connect.beauty-forum.com
COS1405_34_Pack_News_GB_COS1405_34_Pack_News_GB 28.04.14 09:02 Seite 36
www.cossma.com
PRODUCTION
PACKAGING NEWS
NEWS
Events
Cosmoprof 2014 I With a total of 207,238 visitors this year’s Cosmoprof event in Bologna, Italy
saw a 7% increase in visitors. 21% of these visitors came from 134 countries. 2,450 exhibitors from
69 different countries and 24 national groups were showing their products and services. Three days
before the Cosmoprof exhibition, Cosmopack 2014 had already started. The exhibition is focussed
on the production chain, with 14,000 square metres of exhibition space sold and up 9% on last year,
with 400 exhibitors from 33 different countries. Cosmopack encompasses the whole cosmetics industry production chain from raw materials to machinery, the most innovative packaging and the highest performance textures in one single event.
After last year’s Lipstick Factory event (the special event which brought
the whole lipstick production chain together), this year’s Powder Factory
showed the development and manufacturing of face powder – from production to packaging. A further initiative was reserved for the Cosmopack
exhibitors who were given the opportunity to express their technology by
interpreting the Cosmoprof 2014 advertising image in their own ways with
a woman emerging in flowing textiles from a flower blossom. The exhibitors produced items which gave maximum freedom to their creativity
and innovative skills, perfectly expressing the idea of the link between their
core businesses and the Cosmoprof image. There were 5 winners: Pink
Frogs for “Skincare”, Toly for ”The most innovative packaging”, HCT for
“Packaging make-up” and, joint winners, Ancorotti and Nastritex for
”Make-up innovation”.
This year’s Powder Factory showed the development and
www.cosmoprof.com
photos: Cosmopack
Cosmopack 2014 at a glance
manufacture of face powder – from production to packaging
CREAMS LOTIONS
SHAMPOOS PEELS
GELS LIPSTICKS MASCARA FOUNDATIONS
HAIR DYES SHAVING FOAMS TOOTHPASTES
CO-TWISTER – ROTOR-ROTOR-HOMOGENIZER
CONTINOUS PROCESSING
PLANT
GENTLE PRODUCT TEMPERATURE CONTROL
COAXIAL AGITATOR
REPRODUCIBLE FEEDING AND INDUCTION OF RAW MATERIALS
HOT/COLD
EMULSIFYING PROCESS AUTOMATED PRODUCTION PROCESSES
A STEP AHEAD
MIXING AND HOMOGENIZING
SOLUTIONS FOR EMULSIONS
AND SUSPENSIONS
symex GmbH & Co. KG
Lengstraße 10, D-27572 Bremerhaven
CMF 6000 + PM 4000
Fon: +49 (0)471/ 98 40 10
Fax: +49 (0)471/ 98 40 140
www.symex.de
36
COSSMA 5 I 2014
COS1405_DGK_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.14 13:40 Seite 1
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COS1405_38_IBF_GB_COS1405_38_IBF_GB 25.04.14 08:06 Seite 38
www.cossma.com
SERVICE
XB2B-EXCHANGE
Go to
B2B Exchange: Find your
business partners of tomorrow today!
COSSMA and BEAUTY FORUM will help you to build new
business contacts.
All our business partners can use this "International B2B
Exchange".
Have a look at the entries below now and
find your business partner of tomorrow today!
Further information: see www.cossma.com/b2b-exchange
(a =NEW!)
www.cossma.com/
b2bexchange
for more information
about suppliers and
their products
Wish to export their products
abalico
D-69469 Weinheim, Germany
Contact: Mr. Rüdiger Vogel
[email protected]; www.abalico.de
Products: Cosmetic products
for hand and nail
wish to export to: A, CH, F, E, GB
Akzent direct GmbH
D-63571 Gelnhausen, Germany
Contact: Mr. Reiner Schmidt
[email protected];
www.akzent-direct.com
Products: Nail Design, Permanent Make-Up
wish to export to: Asia, AUS, Africa, Near East,
P, E, I
Beauty Line Consulting
D-76698 Ubstadt-Weiher, Germany
Contact: Janos Stegena
[email protected]
www.belico.de
Products: skin and body Care products,
private label, bulk
wish to export to: worldwide
beauty lumis GmbH
D- 80995 München, Germany
Contact: Angela Frommer
[email protected]
www.byonik.net
Products: 2-Frequenz-Simultan- Meso-Laser-and
cosmetic products
DR. BELTER COSMETIC GMBH
D-38106 Braunschweig, Germany
Contact: Mira Fischbach
[email protected]
www.BELTER.de
Products: skin and body care cosmetics
Dr. GRANDEL GmbH
PHYRIS Premium Spa Cosmetic
D-86150 Augsburg, Germany
Contact: Mr. Jürgen Geisler
[email protected]
www.grandel.de
Products: Skin care products,
wish to export to: GB, GUS, TR, TW, S. America
38
COSSMA 5 I 2014
GERTRAUD GRUBER
KOSMETIK GmbH & Co.
D-83700 Rottach-Egern/Tegernsee, Germany
Contact: Roland Schäfer
[email protected]
www.gertraudgruber.de
Products: Wirkstoffaktives holistisches Produktund Anwendungskonzept auf Naturbasis
der 1. Beautyfarm Europas.
IONTO-COMED GmbH
D-76137 Karlsruhe, Germany
Contact: Export
[email protected]
www.ionto.de
Products: cosmetic and footcare technology
Klapp Cosmetics GmbH
Guderma GmbH
D-59192 Bergkamen, Germany
Contact: Mr. Manfred Wolf
[email protected]
www.fusspunkt.de
Products: Skin Care Products for dry und
very dry skin
D- 37235 Hessisch Lichtenau, Germany
Contact: Fernando Duarte
[email protected]
www.klapp-cosmetics.com
Products: Cosmetic products,
SPA collection series
wish to export to: EU, S. America, Asia
NEOVITA COSMETICS
Heitland & Petre International
GmbH (ROSA GRAF)
D- 29229 Celle, Germany
Contact: Saskia Schneider
[email protected]
www.heitland.com
Products: skin care products, wellness & spa treatments
House of Melchiorsen
D-69256 Mauer, Germany
Contact: Karina Grimm
[email protected]
www.neovita.de
Products: Premium Skin Care products for
professionals
Dr. med Christine Schrammek
Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG
DK-4700 Naestved, Denmark
Contact: Annelise Langhorn
[email protected]
www.susanne-melchiorsen.com
Products: Natural Skin Care products and herbal
teas – made of biodynamic herbs from
own d herbs-garden.
Wish to export to: Worldwide
D-45127 Essen, Germany
Contact: Birgit Schmitz
[email protected]
www.schrammek.de
Products: Hautpflegeprodukte, Peelings
wish to export to: I, MAL, RA, UA, ZA
Ingeburg Praxis-Cosmetic GmbH
D-33602 Bielefeld, Germany
Contact: Egypt-Wonder GmbH+Co.KG
Mr. Ronald Fortmann
[email protected]
www.tana-cosmetics.com
Products: Colour cosmetics,
Cosmetic products for self tanning
wish to export to: E, F, DK, S
TANA Cosmetics
D-78229 Karlsruhe, Germany
Contact: Ms. Renate Karner
[email protected]
www.praxis-cosmetic.de
Products: Skin and Body Care
Cosmetics, Ampoules,
Decorative cosmetics
wish to export to: EU + worldwide
COS1405_Beyond_ Beauty_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.14 13:41 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
9. 10. 11.
2014
www.creative-beauty-paris.com
MIX & MATCH GLOBAL SOLUTIONS
FOR INSPIRING BEAUTY BRANDS.
From ingredients to packaging, from formulation to the finished
product, CREATIVE Beauty Paris is the largest international
platform delivering full service solutions to brands for the design,
launch or development of their product ranges.
A BEYOND
BEAUTY
EVENT
Media:
COS1405_40_Preise_GB_COS1405_40_Preise_GB 25.04.14 08:06 Seite 40
www.cossma.com
SERVICES INGREDIENTS
Essential oils: Current import prices in €/kg
May 2014
Amyris, Sandalwood, West Indies
43.00
Anethol from star anis oil
19.00
Bergamot ”Reggio“
87.50
Buchu leaf ”Betulina”
350.00–590.00
Cananga
67.00
Caraway, Balkan/Holland
38.50
Cassia, China
36.50–50.00
Cedarwood, China
15.00
Cedarwood, Florida/Virginia
23.00
Cedarwood, Texas
21.00
Celery seed, India
95.00
Citronella, China, 85/35%
17.50
Citronella, Java, 85/35%
18.50
Clove leaf, Madagascar
18.50–21.00
Coriander
95.00–110.00
Dill, Balkan
35.50–42.00
Eucalyptol, min. 99% (1.8 cineol)
16.50
Eucalyptus citriodora, Brazil, min. 75% 18.50
Eucalyptus citriodora, China, min. 75% 18.50
Eucalyptus, China, 80/85%
13.00
Eucalyptus staigeriana
23.50
Fennel, seed
33.50–62.00
Geranium, Egypt
110.00
Geranium, China
135.00
Ginger, India/Cochin
160.00
Grapefruit, white
26.50–45.00
Guaiacwood, Paraguay
Howood, min. 85%
Juniper berry
Lavandin abrialis
Lavandin grosso
21.00
35.00–45.00
210.00–450.00
28.00
27.00
Lavender, Bulgaria
75.00–95.00
Lavender, France, 40/42%
130.00
Lemon, Messina, winter harvest
30.00
Lemon grass, Cochin, min. 75%
15.50
Limette, distilled, Mexico/West Indies 42.00
Litsea cubeba, China, min. 75%
Menthol, China, BP/DAB
18.50
21.00
Menthol, India, known brands
21.00
40
COSSMA 5 I 2014
unchanged
unchanged
steady
not much movement
steady
unchanged
unchanged
firm
firm
firm
unchanged
steady
steady
steady
stabilised at a high level
steady
firmer
not much movement
not much movement
firmer
unchanged
steady
very volatile and scarce
firm
firmer
unchanged, firm and
scarce
unchanged
very firm, good quality
very scarce
steady
very firm, scarce
very firm, practically
sold out
firm, big variations in
quality, sold out at source
very firm, and scarce
firmer
steady
firmer, almost none
available
practically unchanged
volatile, prices change
daily, spot deals scarce
volatile, prices change
Prices ar ex-works Germany,
customs cleared in the EU
Note: The €/$ exchange rate has
an impact on several prices and
at times has a greater impact than
percentage price changes at
source.
Mint (Pepp. arv.), China
18.00 volatile, prices change
Mint (Pepp. arv.), India
18.00 volatile, prices change
Nutmeg, Indonesia
87.00–102.00 firmer again
Nutmeg, Sri Lanka
80.00–95.00 currently stable
Orange, bitter
56.50 still unchanged
Orange, Brazil
4.90–5.35 firmer
Orange, Florida/Valencia, CP
5.25–5.70 firmer
Palmarosa, East Indies, min. 90%
35.00 still no clear direction
Palmarosa, South America
39.00 still no clear direction
Parsley seed
165.00 unchanged
Patchouli, Sumatra extra
67.00 steady
Pepper, India
110.00–140.00 steady
Peppermint, American
65.00–78.00 steady
Peppermint, Indian
29.50 practically unchanged
Petitgrain, Paraguay
36.50 firmer
Rosemary, North Africa,
nom. 30.00–35.00 sold out, harvest on the way
Morocco/Tunisia
Rosewood, Brazil
nom. 325.00 small quantities appearing
on market
Sage, Dalmatian, offic., 30%
75.00 firm
Sandalwood, India
nom. 2,400.00 very firm, legally sold oil
almost unavailable
Spearmint, Am. Native/Scotch 52.00–54.00 stable, firm undertone
Spearmint, China, 60/80%
38.00–48.00 firm, good quality scarce
Spruce needle, Siberia
23.50 unchanged
Star anis, China
16.50 basically unchanged
Vetiver, Haiti
190.00 basically unchanged
Vetiver, Java
120.00 easing somewhat
COS1405_41_Formulierung_GB_COS1405_41_Formulierung_GB 25.04.14 08:07 Seite 41
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FORMULATIONS
Natural cosmetics
In our June issue we will be focussing
on formulations for sun care. In July/August it will be the turn of all
types of hair care products, and
colorants. All of the information
published here has been carefully assembled, however neither the publishers nor the developers of these formulations
can accept responsibility for
their safety or accuracy.
You will find here around 30 formulations that focus on the everpopular topic of natural cosmetics. Would you like to know what is
hidden behind these pleasant-sounding formulation names? Then
just simply download them, free of charge, from our web site at
www.cossma.com/download*.
W
ith the everyday increases in summery temperatures, formulations such
burg Weather Protection Cream. And,
for those who want to do themselves
some good in the stiff Hamburg
as Impag’s Natural Slimming Cream,
Croda’s Jojoba & Coconut Ecocert
Sun Cream, GfN Selco’s Natural Light
Face Cream and Sisterna’s Moisturizing Cucumber Splash OW sound ex-
actly right.
But for when the weather isn’t quite
so kind Dr. Straetmans offers the Ham-
Downloads
All formulations can be found at
User name: cossma5
Password: active
SERVICES
breezes, we feel sure that Floratech’s
formulation Moringa Butter Moisturizing Body Masque will provide the desired pampering experience.
And for a special textured experience with olfactory pleasure there is
PEG Free Apricot Cleansing Jam created by Lubrizol.
*Access codes for downloading the formulations can be
found on this page in the Internet panel
Coffee Butter Scrub
A.Brasca
Natural Slimming Cream
Impag
Natural Lip Balm Stick
Nordmann, Rassmann
Natural Elements Style Creator
AkzoNobel
Natural Cheek and Lip Stain
Inolex
Luxurious Natural Night Cream
Sederma
Multi-Gel-to-Milk
Alfa Chemicals
Ecocert Body Lotion
Jungbunzlauer
Moisturizing Cucumber Splash OW
Sisterna
Natural Hair Conditioner
BASF
Mild Baby Lotion
Kao Chemicals
Multi-Active Anti-Aging Cream
(Ecocert)
Soliance
Forever Fresh Deo
Biesterfeld Spezialchemie
O/W Natural BB Cream
Kobo Products
Day Moisturizer
Carotech
PEG Free Apricot Cleansing Jam
Lubrizol
All Natural Formulation
Clariant
Natural Tinted Cream
Lucas Meyer
Comfort On Calm Face Mask OW
CLR
Anti Radical Natural Day Cream
Merck
Natural Shampoo
Solvay
Sulfate-Free Conditioning
Shampoo
TC USA
Remineralising Natural Night
Cream
Zschimmer & Schwarz
Jojoba & Coconut Ecocert Sun
Cream
Croda
All Natural Foundation
DKSH
Hamburg Weather Protection
Cream (Natural)
Dr. Straetmans
GranLux®
eignet
sich
für
Lotionen,
Cremes, Lippenstifte, ölfreie Produkte, Gels
und diverse farbkosmetische Anwendungen.
Moringa Butter Moisturizing
Body Masque
Floratech
Ebenso sind spezielle Varianten für zertifizierte
Naturkosmetik erhältlich.
weitere Informationen,
Natural Light Face Cream
GfN Selco
CC Cream
Honeywell
Muster & Rahmenrezepturen unter:
[email protected]
0211 507 25 09
www.mani-gmbh.com
COSSMA 5I 2014
41
COS1405_42_Kalender_GB_COS1405_42_Kalender_GB 25.04.14 08:07 Seite 42
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SERVICES
EVENTS
Fairs, conferences and seminars
2014
When?
What?
Where?
Who?
10.–11.05.2014
BEAUTY FORUM HUNGARY
Budapest
Hungary
Health and Beauty Business Media Kft.
www.beauty-kiallitas.hu
13.–14.05.2014
NYSCC Suppliers’ Day
14.–15.05.2014
BDIH-Fachtagung
14.–15.05.2014
Luxe Pack
New York
Seminar:
Produktentwicklung
Workshop:
Kosmetik-GMP
World of
Private Label
Seminar: Konservierung
von kosmetischen Mitteln
innoCos
Edison, NJ
USA
Mannheim
Germany
New York
USA
Windhagen
Germany
Windhagen
Germany
Amsterdam
Netherlands
Frankfurt a.M.
Germany
Rome
Italy
Leverkusen
Germany
Dubai
UAE
Amsterdam
Netherlands
Thessaloniki
Greece
NYSCC
www.nyscc.org
BDIH
[email protected], www.bdih.de
Idice SAS
www.luxepack.com
Cosmetic Campus
www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
Cosmetic Campus
www.cosmetic-campus.de
PLMA
www.plma.nl
Cosmetic Campus
KGS
www.innocosevents.com
Sepawa
www.sepawa.de
Messe Frankfurt
www.beautyworldme.com
IQPC
www.globalcosmeticcompliance.com
Beauty Greece Tsirimokou
www.beautygreece.gr
London
Great Britain
Paris
France
Munich
Germany
Paris
France
Venice
Italy
St. Petersburg
Russia
Brussels
Belgium
Deauville
France
Huddersfield
Great Britain
Brussels
Belgium
Frankfurt a.M.
Germany
Philadelphia
USA
Singapore
Republic of Singapore
Summit Events Ltd
www.summit-events.com
Idice
www.packandgift.com
Leipziger Messe GmbH
www.cosmetic-business.com/tradefair
Cosmed
www.cosmeticdays.com
ESCAD
www.escad.org
Reed Exhibitions
www.intercharm.ru
Cosmetics Europe
www.cosmeticseurope.eu
Allured Business Media
www.wpc.perfumerflavorist.com
SCS
www.scs.org.uk
Cosmetics Business
www.cosmeticsbusiness.com
Cosmetic Campus
Cosmetics & Toiletries
www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
Summit Events
www.summit-events.com
Las Vegas
USA
Prague
Czech Republik
Omics
www.omicsgroup.com
Guarant
www.wc9prague.org
Frankfurt a.M.
Germany
São Paulo
Brasil
on beauty
www.on-beauty.com
Reed Exhibitions
www.in-cosmeticsbrasil.comty-fairs.com.pl
19.–20.05.2014
20.05.2014
20.–21.05.2014
21.05.2014
21.–23.05.2014
27.–28.05.2014
27.–29.05.2014
27.–29.05.2014
31.05.–02.06.2014
Convention:
FG Angewandte Kosmetik
Beautyworld Middle East
Global Cosmetic
Compliance Summit
BEAUTY FORUM MACEDONIA
11. International Trade Fair & Congress
MACEDONIA
HAUTNAH ERLEBEN!
03.–04.06.2014
Thessaloniki
31. Mai – 02. Juni 2014
04.–05.06.2014
Anti-Ageing Skin
Care Conference
Pack & Gift
05.–06.06.2014
CosmeticBusiness
05.–06.06.2014
CosmeticDays
05.–07.06.2014
Cosmoderm
05.–07.06.2014
InterCharm
professional
Global Scientific
Regulatory Conference
World Perfumery
Congress
Joint SCS & BACS Event
10.–11.06.2014
10.–12.06.2014
12.06.2014
17.–18.06.2014
31.08–01.09.2014
Cosmetics Business
Regulatory Summit
Seminar: Kosmetikrecht
best practices
Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit 2014
Research & Discovery
Sun Protection &
Anti-Ageing Skin Care
Conference Asia
Conference on Cosmetology
and Trichology
World Congress on
Alternatives and Animal Use
in the Life Sciences
on beauty
09.–10.09.2014
In-Cosmetics Brasilien
25.06.2014
26.–27.06.2014
09.–10.07.2014
21.–23.07.2014
24.–28.08.2014
42
COSSMA 5 I 2014
467-11_EA_Cossma_Guide_GB_467-11_EA_Cossma_Guide_GB 23.04.14 07:06 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
Find tomorrow’s
suppliers today!
www.cossma.com/guide
Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry –
news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites:
Your entry in the supplier’s
database for the personal care
and cosmetics industry make sure
you are found by your customers
of tomorrow – very cost-effective!
This entry
(Your basic entry, product,
divisions, company logo,
website, link, short
description PLUS your
brand names))
is available for
just € 120,–
per month!
3
1
2
4a
5
4b
Advertising opportunities in www.cossma.com/guide
No. Description
Basic Entry, consisting of your mailing address, up to 3 contact manes, phone and fax
numbers, company e-mail adress, listing of up to 4 product divisions
1
Your price per month/
per12 month
FREE OF CHARGE!
(each additional product division: plus € 1,– per month, € 12,–per year)
Website link – linking to the URL of your choice
2
(can only be booked in combination with complete basic entry)
Your Company Logo Format 96 x 96 Pixel,
will also be published on www.cossma.com/suppliers
3
€ 25,– per month
€ 300,– per 12 month/1 year
(can only be booked in combination with complete basic entry)
4a
4b
5
Your short description consisting of
up to 2000 characters (app. 20 words) text
Your profile text consisting of
up to 2000 characters (app. 200 words) text
Your brands – a list of your most important brand names and trade
(up to 4 brand names)
You can find further information of these
suppliers at www.cossma.com/guide
Your will be listed here for just € 25,– per month
– for further information, please contact
Dorothea Michaelis
[email protected]
phone +49 (0)721 165-144
COS1405_44_GB_Einstieg_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB_Einstieg 22.04.14 13:58 Seite 44
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Suppliers Guide Alphabetical Listing
On the following pages you will find a selection of suppliers to the cosmetics
industry. The listing is in alphabetical order based on the English section
headings. To make it easier for you to find what you are looking for we have
listed the German section headings below, with their English equivalents.
A detailed supplier listing can be found starting on page 43ff. You can also
find a full overview, with a search function, at www.cossma.com/guide
Should your company be listed here?
Send an e-mail to [email protected]
We will be glad to send you details of terms and prices
German Heading
see
Abfüll- und Verschließmaschinen
Adeps Lanae
Ätherische Öle
Airless Systeme
Aloe Vera
Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse
Ampullenabfüllung
Avocadobutter
Avocadoöl
Filling and Crimping Machines
Adeps Lanae
Essential Oils
Airless Systems
Aloe Vera
Aluminium Seal Closures
Ampul Filling
Avocadobutter
Avocado Oil
Boragesamenöl
Borage Seed Oil
Chitosan
Chitosan
Dermatologische + klinische Tests
Dichtemessung von Cremes,
Flüssigkeiten und Aerosolen
Dermataogical + Clinical Tests
Density Measurement of
Creams, Liquids and Aerosols
Etiketten
Etuis für die dekorative Kosmetik
Labels
Pouches a. Cases f. Colour Cosmetics
Fettsäure-Ester Flüssigkeitszerstäuber und Sprühpistolen
Formen und Kunststoffteile
Fatty Acid Esters
Dispensers and Trigger Pumps
Molds and Plastic Parts
Glittereffekte
Glitter Effects
Hagebuttenkernöl
Hyaluronsäure Natrium
Johanniskrautöl Hacoba
Jojobaperlen
Jojobaöl
Karmin
Kosmetik-Farbstoffe
Kosmetik-Rohstoffe
Kosmetik Spatel
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae),
Wollwachs, -alkohole
pestizidarm
Lohnabfüllung
Lohnherstellung Arzneimittel
und Kosmetika
Lohnherstellung und Verpackung
Makadamianussöl
Mandelöl
Mischkugeln für Aerosole
Molch-Reinigungssysteme
Nachtkerzenöl
Oleochemicals
Olivenbutter
Olivenöl
Parfümöl
Pflanzenöle
Pumpen für die Produktion
Rizinusöl
Rose Hip Oil
Hyaluronic Acid Sodium
St. John’s Wort Oil /Hypericum Oil
Jojobabeads/Grains/Pearls
Jojoba Oil
Carmine
Cosmetics Colorants
Cosmetics Raw Materials
Cosmetics Spatulas
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae),
Low Pesticide Wool Wax,
Wool Alcohols
Contract Filling
Contract Manufacturing
Pharmaceuticals and Cosmetics
Manufacturing + Packaging
Macadamia Nut Oil
Almond Oil
Aerosol Mixing Balls
Pig Clearing Systems
Evening Primrose Oil
Oleochemicals
Olivebutter
Olive Oil
Perfume Oil
vegetable oils
Pumps for the production process
Castor Oil
Sesamöl
Software
Sheabutter
Spraysysteme
Sterilisation
Sesame Oil
Software
Shea Butter
Spray Systems
Sterilization
Verpackungen
Packaging
Weizenkeimöl
Wirkstoffe für Kosmetika
Wollwachs
Wheat Germ Oil
Actives for Cosmetics
Wool Wax
✂
✂
ADVERTISING FAX-SERVICE:
Fax +49 (0) 721 165-227
Start winning tomorrow’s customer today
with your entry in the suppliers’ guide
width of column:
price per mm height:
for a period of:
advertising deadline:
43 mm
€ 3,10
1 year
10th day of each month before
publication
❑ Yes, I wish to place a firm order for an entry in the suppliers’
guide at a price of € 3,10 per column mm for each entry.
You will receive the text for my ad with separate fax.
Company:
Please send me an order confirmation for the following ad:
Category/ies:
Height i. mm:
To be first published in issue:
❑ 06/2014
contact:
❑ black and white
❑ 07-08/2014
❑ 09/2014
❑ 10/2014
❑ 11/2014
❑ 12/2014
❑ 1 year
❑ test: 3 month
Street, P.O. Box:
For a period of:
Post Code, City:
❑ Yes, I agree that you may keep me advised of industry news by phone
(including mobile phone), by e-mail, or in writing!
Country:
phone:
fax:
date, signature
44
mm
❑ 4 colour (Euro scale)
COSSMA 5 I 2014
COS1405_45_BQ_GB_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB 22.04.14 13:59 Seite 45
www.cossma.com
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Adeps Lanae
Adeps Lanae
Carmine
Karmin
Contract Filling
Lohnabfüllung
SERVICES
+ Packaging
Lohnherstellung + Verpackung
H. Erhard Wagner GmbH
28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
www.wagnerlanolin.com
Imperial-Oel-Import
Handelsgesellschaft mbH
Bergstr. 11, 20095 Hamburg
Tel. 040-33 85 33 0
www.lanolin.com
Certification
Zertifizierung
Aerosol Mixing Balls
Mischkugeln für Aerosole
SiLiglit
®
GANZ EINFACH:
SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH
Phone (++49) 9277 99410 · Fax (++49) 9277 99499
E - M a i l : s i l i @ s i g m u n d - l i n d n e r. c o m
www.sili.eu
Aloe Vera
Aloe Vera
Aluminium Seal Closures
Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse
LEISTUNG
Consulting
Beratung
HERSTELLEN
von Salben, Gelen, Cremes, Zahnpasta,
Liquida, Pulver; Suppositorien in PVCoder Aluzellen.
We take care of
your cosmetics.
ABFÜLLEN
Your service provider in the
healthcare industry:
www.diapharm.com
in Alu-, Kunststoff-, Laminattuben,
Tiegel, Flaschen, Beutel, Dosen.
KONFEKTIONIEREN
von pharmazeutischen, kosmetischen,
chemischen Produkten, Nahrungs- und
Genußmitteln.
DOKUMENTIEREN
GMP-gerechte Kontrolle und Dokumentation. Modernes Labor mit
Mikrobiologie.
Containers f. transport &
storange
Lohnabfüllung
Unsere IBC Container lagern in strategisch
gelegenen Depots in Großbritannien, Frankreich, Deutschland, Niederlande, Spanien,
Skandinavien und USA, um den Bedarf
unserer Kunden in Europa zu decken.
TPS Rental Systems Ltd . www.tpsrentalsystems.de
Mergenthaler Str. 27 . 48268 Greven
Tel. +49 2571-9929571 . Fax -9929572
Alu-Siegelverschlüsse
Alu-Folien
• für Glas- u. Kunststoff-Behälter
• in Kleinst- u. Massenauflage
• in jeder Größe zu jedem Zweck
• Qualität seit 1957
DERSCHLAG GmbH & Co. KG
Stanzerei und Folienverarbeitung
57319 Bad Berleburg
Tel.: 0 27 51/20 27, Fax: 0 27 51/20 25
Advertising
Hotline
+49 (0)721 165-144
Zellaerosol GmbH
Wiesenstraße 13
D-79669 Zell/Wiesental
Telefon 0 76 25 / 92 53-0
Telefax 0 76 25 / 92 53-14
Internet: www.zellaerosol.de
Wir haben uns spezialisiert auf das
Herstellen, Füllen und Verschließen von
✓ Standardsachets
✓ Zeitschriftensachets
✓ Onpacksachets
✓ Konturensachets
✓ Tüchlein
Lohn-Pack
K.A.Wolf GmbH & Co. KG
Dorfwiesenstraße, 61197 Florstadt
Tel. 0 60 41 / 82 28 - 27, Fax 0 60 41 / 47 76
Mail: [email protected]
WAGENER & CO
GANZ EINFACH : LEISTUNG.
Wagener & Co GmbH
Postfach 1645 · 49516 Lengerich
Telefon 0 54 81 / 8 06 - 0
Telefax 0 54 81 / 8 06 - 200
Internet: www.wagener-co.de
Advertising
Hotline
+49 (0)721 165-144
COSSMA 5 I 2014
45
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Pharmac. + Cosmetics
Cosmetic Ingredients
Kosmetik-Rohstoffe
Maschinen für Aerosole
und Sprühsysteme
innovativ
kompetent
zuverlässig
–
–
–
–
Entwicklung, Bulkherstellung, Konfektionierung
Aerosole, Kosmetik, Pharmazeutik/OTC,
Medizin- und Haushaltsprodukte
Trichema AG
Lättichstrasse 4
Postfach 1063
CH-6341 Baar
SiLiglit
®
Füll- und Verschliessmaschinen
Prüf- und Sicherheitseinrichtungen
Sortier-, Zuführ- und Aufsetzmaschinen
Mess- und Testgeräte
Pamasol Willi Mäder AG, CH-8808 Pfäffikon
T +41(0)55 4174040, F +41(0)55 4174044
[email protected], www.pamasol.com
Polyurethanes, film forming polymers
and sensory additives for your
cosmetic formulations
SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH
Phone (++49) 9277 99410 · Fax (++49) 9277 99499
E - M a i l : s i l i @ s i g m u n d - l i n d n e r. c o m
www.sili.eu
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae)
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae)
[email protected]
www.bayercosmetics.com
baycusan
®
Cosmetic Spatulas
Kosmetik-Spatel
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
Tel.: 0800/50 30 300 (gebührenfrei)
Spendenkonto: 22222 00000
BLZ: 430 609 67, GLS-Bank
www.sos-kinderdoerfer.de
Glitter Effects
Glittereffekte
Kosmetik - Pharmazeutik - Chemie Technik - Nahrungsmittelindustrie Farben/Lacke - Polyurethanschäume
Tel 0041 (0)41 768 0202
Fax 0041 (0)41 768 0200
[email protected]
www.trichema.ch
„Danke
für alles!“
Filling Lines
Filling Lines
Mixing + Homogenizing
Mixing + Homogenizing
go Meding GmbH
Kruppstraße 8 · D-58553 Halver
Tel.: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 -0
Fax: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 - 28
[email protected]
www.meding.com
Dermatological +
Clinical Tests
A STEP AHEAD
symex GmbH & Co. KG
Lengstr. 10, 27572 Bremerhaven
Fon: +49 (0)471/98 40 10
Fax: +49 (0)471/98 40 140
www.symex.de
Engelstraße 37, 48143 Münster
www.dermatest.de
Please note:
6/2014
Publishing date:
02.06.2014
Advertising deadline:
25.04.2014
Please do not
hesitate to contact us if you
have any further questions
Call: Dorothea Michaelis
+49 (0)721 165-144
46
COSSMA 5 I 2014
Food Supplements
Nahrungsergänzung
privatebrand.ch
Your company could be
placed here for only
€ 201,50 per issue.
Book your ad today.
Call +49 (0)721 165-144
www.cossma.com
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Packaging
Verpackungen
Rosa Heinz GmbH
SERVICES
E-Paper
Sterilization
Sterilisation
steril!
Verpackungen aus Glas und Kunststoff
Wir machen Ihre
Straßfeld 6, 85777 Fahrenzhausen
Tel. +49 (0 )81 33 - 91 85 90
Fax: +49 (0 )81 33 - 91 85 99
[email protected]
www.rosa-heinz.de
BGS – Ihr Spezialist für Strahlensterilisation.
Produkte
www.bgs.eu
WI E H L | B R UCHSAL | SAAL (DONAU)
B GS Beta-Gamma-Service GmbH & Co. KG
[email protected] | + 49 (0) 22 61 78 99 - 0
Verpackung
für Kosmetik –
Selbstabfüller
Dosen u. Flaschen in Plastik u.
Glas (Sprühköpfe, Dosierspender,
Aromaflaschen, Parfümflaschen,
Sprühflaschen ohne Treibgas)
Vegetable Oils
Pflanzenöle
www.a-o-t.com
Auch Kleinstmengen!
Fordern Sie unsere Unterlagen an
R.GERSCHON GMBH
D . 61462 Königstein im Taunus
Tel. 06174/7017 . Fax 06174/1312
Internet: www.gerschon.de
Trends
Statements
Innovation
Order today:
Your Cossma E-paper!
For 99,– EUR per year you get the COSSMA E-Paper
English and German issue incl. full access to the online
archive of the German, French, Spanish, Russian and
English PDF-Versions
(Special PDF editions in French, Spanish, Russian are published
for special occassions)
AOT GmbH
Siebdruck ab 300 Stück
We deliver high-quality oils, fats,
raw materials and extracts in organic quality
Wool wax
Wollwachs
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
Software
Software
Please note:
6/2014
Publishing date:
02.06.2014
Advertising deadline:
25.04.2014
Please do not
hesitate to contact us if you
have any further questions
Call: Dorothea Michaelis
+49 (0)721 165-144
Order today,
at www.cossma.com/subscription
or via the hotline: +49 (0)721 165-131
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Deutschland
[email protected]
Tel: +49 (0)721 165-131 Fax: +49 (0)721 165-103
COS1405_48_Verzeichnis_GB_COS1405_48_Verzeichnis_GB 25.04.14 08:08 Seite 48
www.cossma.com
Advertisers’
Index
Company
Index
BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH
www.cognis.com
p. 23
Beauteam - MakeUp in Paris
www.premiumbeautynews.com
p. 33
Bech Packaging Spzoo
www.bechpackaging.com
p. 9
Beyond Beauty Events
Itec Exhibition Company
www.cosmeeting.com
p. 39
CLR Chem. Laboratorium
Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
www.clr-berlin.com
p. 52
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co.KG
www.cremeroleo.de
p. 21
DGK Deutsche Gesellschaft
für wissenschaftliche und angewandte
Kosmetik e.V.
www.dgk-ev.de
Gerhard Schubert GmbH
Spezialmaschinenbau
GRAFE Advanced Polymers GmbH
www.grafe.com
IMPAG Import GmbH
www.impag.eu
INOLEX Inc.
www.inolex.com
Kosmetik Konzept GmbH
www.kosmetik-konzept.eu
Lipotec S.A.
www.lipotec.com
Lutz GmbH & Co. KG
Mani GmbH
www.mani-gmbh.com
Optima packaging group GmbH
www.optima-consumer.com
Rationator-Maschinenbau GmbH
www.rationator.de
Sabinsa Europe GmbH
www.sabinsaeurope.com
Sappi Fine Paper Europe
www.sappi.com
Sederma GmbH
www.sederma.fr
Stölzle-Oberglas GmbH
www.stoelzle.com
Symex Misch- und Anlagentechnik
GmbH & Co. KG
www.symex.de
SystemKosmetik Produktionsges.
für kosm. Erzeugnisse GmbH
www.systemkosmetik.de
p. 37
p. 16, 17
p. 25
p.15
p. 19
p. 13
p. 7
A. Brasca
www.abpersonalcare.com
p. 24
ABIHPEC
www.abihpec.org.br
Drom
www.drom.com
p. 24
Estée Lauder
www.esteelauder.com
Eurofragance
www.eurofragance.com
Akott
www.akott.com
AkzoNobel
www.akzonobel.com/pcp
Alban Muller
www.albanmuller.com
Alfa Chemicals
www.alfa-chemicals.co.uk
p. 24
Exsymol
www.exsymol.com
p. 14
Firmenich
www.firmenich.com
NCD Ingredients
pp. 20, 24
p. 8
Floratech
www.floratech.com
Nordmann, Rassmann
www.nrc.de
p. 41
p. 41
P360˚
www.p360grad.de
p. 36
p. 18
p. 36
Ama Laboratories
www.amalabs.com
GfN Selco
www.gfn-selco.de
p. 41
p. 24
p. 36
Ancorotti
www.ancorotticosmetics.com
Givaudan
www.givaudan.com
Pacplast Thermoform
www.pacplast.de
p. 8
p. 36
Good Things
www.goodthingsbeauty.com
Pai Skin Care
www.paiskincare.com
p. 3
p. 3
p. 8
Guerlain
www.guerlain.com
Perricone
www.perriconemd.com
p. 18
p. 8
p. 24
Henkel
www.henkel.com
Physicians
www.physiciansformula.com
p. 18
p. 3
Pink Frogs
www.pinkfrogs.it
p. 36
Annemarie Börlind
www.boerlind.com
Ashland
www.ashland.com/personalcare
Axilone
www.axilone-sa.com
p. 8
Azelis
www.azelis.com
Honeywell
www.honeywell.com
p. 41
p. 8
HCT
www.hctpackaging.com
Procter & Gamble
www.pg.com
p. 8
p. 36
Provital
www.provital.org
p. 8
PTG
www.ptg-lohnverpackung.de
p. 36
Roeser
www.eroeser.de
p. 36
Rosa Heinz
www.rosa-heinz.de
p. 36
Ballerstaedt
www.ballerstaedt.de
p. 36
BASF
www.basf.com
IKW
www.ikw.org
p. 10
p. 34
Impag
www.impag.de
p. 41
p. 5
p. 36
Biesterfeld
www.biesterfeld.com
p. 28
BSB Cosmetic
www.bsb-cosmetic.de
Bübchen Werk Ewald Hermes
www.buebchen.de
Carin
www.carin.be
Carotech
www.carotech.net
Chemyunion
www.chemyunion.com.br
Clariant
www.clariant-personalcare.com
CLR
www.clr-berlin.com
CosmeticBusiness
www.cosmetic-business.com
Cosmetics & Toiletries
www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
Cosmopack
www.cosmoprof.com
Cosmoprof
www.cosmoprof.com
Coty
www.coty.com
Crabtree & Evelyn
www.crabtree-evelyn.com
Croda
www.croda.com
DKSH
www.dksh.com
Doosan
www.doosan.com
Dove
www.dove.com
Dr. Straetmans
www.dr-straetmans.de
COSSMA 5 I 2014
Naturkosmetik Branchenkongress
www.naturkosmetik-branchenkongress.de
Algotherm
www.algotherm.com
Cosmetic Art Production
www.cosartpro.de
48
p. 36
p. 8
Packit
www.pack-it.de
Beraca
www.beraca.com.br
p. 13
Nastritex
www.nastritex.it
p. 24
p. 41
p. 36
p. 34
p. 36
p. 8
Gattefossé
www.gattefosse.com
Beiersdorf
www.beiersdorf.com
p. 29
p. 24
p. 8
p. 24
BDIH
www.bdih.de
p. 2
pp. 8, 24
p. 18
Multitubes
www.multitubes.nl
Algea
www.algea.com
p. 27
Loose Insert
p. 24
www.mintel.com
p. 3
In-Cosmetics
www.in-cosmetics.com
pp. 3, 24
p. 24
Induchem
www.induchem.com
p. 24
p. 24
Inolex
www.inolex.com
p. 41
p. 34
JG
www.jgservice.de
p. 36
p. 8
Jungbunzlauer
www.jungbunzlauer.com
p. 41
p. 8
Kao Chemicals
www.kaochemicals-eu.com
p. 41
p. 8
Knapp
www.standard-knapp.com
p. 36
p. 34
Kneipp
www.kneipp.de
p. 24
Kobo
www.koboproductsinc.com
p. 24, 34
KPT
www.starpheres.com
p. 34
La Prairie
www.laprairie.com
p. 36
Lancôme
www.lancome.com
p. 36
p. 24
pp. 3, 36, 50
pp. 3, 36
p. 8
p. 8
pp. 24, 34
p. 34
p. 8
p. 22
p. 41
Lipotec
www.lipotec.com
L’Oréal
www.loreal.com
Lubrizol
www.lubrizol.com
Lucas Meyer
www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
Safic-Alcan
www.safic-alcan.com
Sederma
www.sederma.fr
p. 8
pp. 10, 41
SGD
www.sgdgroup.com
p. 8
Sidel
www.sidel.com
p. 8
Silab
www.silab.fr
p. 24
Sister Diary
www.sisterdiary.com
p. 18
pp. 24, 41
Sisterna
www.sisterna.com
p. 41
p. 24
Soliance
www.soliance.com
p. 41
p. 50
Solvay
www.solvay.com
p. 41
Springpool
www.springpool.de
p. 50
Style Aromatherapy
www.stylearomatherapy.com
p. 18
Talis
www.talis.org
p. 36
p. 41
TC USA
www.tc-usa.com
p. 41
p. 41
The Skin Cancer Foundation
www.skincancer.org
p. 18
p. 36
p. 8
p. 8
pp. 12, 24
p. 8
LUM
www.lum-gmbh.de
p. 8
LVMH
www.lvmh.com
Toly
www.toly.com
p. 8
Unilever
www.unilever.com
p. 8
p. 8
Mantrose-Haeuser
www.mantrose.com
p. 24
Merck
www.merck4cosmetics.com
VG Emballage
www.vg-emballage.com
p. 41
Vivaness
www.vivaness.de
p. 24
Mibelle
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
p. 8
Mila d’Opiz
www.mila-d-opiz.ch
Vogt
www.vogt-druck.de
p. 36
p. 8
Minasolve
www.minasolve.com
Worlée
www.worlee.de
p. 24
p. 24
Zschimmer & Schwarz
www.zschimmer-schwarz.com
p. 41
Mintel
COS1405_49_Impressum_GB_COS1405_49_Impressum_GB 25.04.14 08:09 Seite 49
www.cossma.com
Masthead
Page
Trends
Statements
Innovation
E-mail newsletter order
The
Team
Volume 15 ISSN 1439-7676
Published by Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp
Assistant: Phone: +49 721 165-311
Address Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, COSSMA
P.O. Box 1446, 76003 Karlsruhe, Germany
Phone: +49 721 165-0, Fax: +49 721 165-148
Editorial Staff Legally responsible party and Senior Editor:
Angelika Meiss
Phone: +49 721 165-169
E-mail: [email protected]
Managing Director
Jürgen Volpp
Advisory Board François Berthoud, Jean-François Billon, Agnès Borel,
Peter Finkel, Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Ulrich Herfurt,
Birgit Huber, Dr. Jean-Luc Lévêque, Dr. Daniel Maes,
Prof. Dr. Hagen Tronnier, Dr. Klaus-Peter Wittern
Advertising Advertisement Manager: Dorothea Michaelis
Phone: +49 721 165-144
Advertising Services: Ruth Reif
Phone: +49 721 165-232, Fax: +49 721 165-148
The current list of advertising rates is dated
1st of Jan. 2014.
Senior Editor
Angelika Meiss
+49 721 165-169
Circulation Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Service [email protected]
Phone: +49 721 165-162, Fax: +49 721 165-148
Published: 10 issues per year
COSSMA: formerly “Parfümerie und Kosmetik“ and
“Aerosol and Spray Report“
Subscription Purchase price/annual subscription rates:
Rates Germany: € 192; outside Germany: € 198.
Cancellations addressed to the publishing firm
by letter will be accepted one month before the end of the
subscription year. The subscription fees will be billed in
advance once a year. A quarterly debit transfer arrangement via a bank or post office is acceptable.
Design/ Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Production Ulrich Hanke
Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18, 76133 Karlsruhe, Germany
Phone: +49 721 165-592
ISDN (Leonardo): +49 721 165-696
Advertising Sales
Dorothea Michaelis
+49 721 165-144
Printing Kraft Druck GmbH
Industriestr. 5-9, 76275 Ettlingen, Germany
that Health and Beauty Germany GmbH may contact
me
J by mobile phone
J by e-mail
J in writing
J by telephone/fax
with news from the industry and to tell me about interesting offers. If I do not wish to receive further information, I will communicate this to Health and Beauty.
Please fill in completly in capital letters or add your business card:
@
International Representatives
Hungary Health and Beauty Business Media Kft.
Anita Zsilak, Naphegy tér 8. III. em. (MTI Székház)
1016 Budapest, Hungary
Phone: +36 1 457006600, Fax: +36 1 2013248
Italy Zero Venti
Loris Sparti
Via Giuseppew Luigi Passalacqua, 4
10122 Torino, Italy
Phone: +39 348 2247176
Advertising Support
Ruth Reif
+49 (0)721 165-232
z Yes, I want to be kept right up to date. I therefore agree
Poland Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.o.o.
Malgorzata Szulc, ul. Kubickiego 9/3
02-954 Warsaw, Poland
Phone: +48 22 8587955, Fax: +48 22 8587953
USA and Canada D.A. Fox Advertising Sales Inc.
Detlef Fox
19th Floor 5 Penn Plaza
New York, NY NY 10001, USA
Phone: +1 212 896-3881
Fax: +1 212 629-3988
E-mail
First name, family name
Company
Street address
Postcode, city, country
Date and signature
© Copyright Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, Karlsruhe 2014
Graphics
Ulrich Hanke
+49 (0)721 165-592
The publisher has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the accuracy of information in this magazine. Nevertheless, no responsibility is accepted for any
errors which may occur. The magazine, including all articles and illustrations is
copyright. Unauthorised use of published material is prohibited and will be the
subject of legal action. This applies in particular to photo copying, translations,
microfilms and the storage and editing using electronic media. The use of trade
names, brand names, product designations etc. in this publication implies no
authority for their further use by third parties. Such product names and brands
may be the subject of legal protection, even though they may not be identified
as such in the magazine.
Order today:
Fax: +49 (0)721 165-103
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Germany
[email protected]
Tel: +49(0) 721 165-131 Fax: +49(0) 721 165-103
COS1405_50_Vorschau_GB_COS1405_50_Vorschau_GB 25.04.14 08:09 Seite 50
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
Trend statement
Acquiring a timeless beauty
PREVIEW
our clients for luxurious textures together with the highest
level of efficacy.
An understanding of age-related changes in the molecular
processes and hence understanding the needs of the skin,
form the basis of the development of new product concepts. And looked at in this way it is the skin itself that makes
the cream …
www.laprairie.com
photo: La Prairie
In recent years the knowledge that we
all have about the biology of the skin
has grown enormously. The discovery of dermal and epidermal stem
cells, and their role in skin renewal
and wound healing, has led to the development of active substances that
protect the stem cells from external
Dr. Daniel Stangl,
stress factors, and delay the agehead of innovation
and knowledge man- related fall in their potential for skin
agement at La Prairie renewal.
The importance of stem cells for a
healthy, young-looking skin was recognised very early on by
our scientists. To protect the skin’s stem cells La Prairie have
developed the Swiss Ice Crystal Complex, and the patented Cellular Complex, which work against the age-related fall
in the renewal potential of the epidermal stem cells.
There are a lot of molecular mechanisms in the body that
experience a loss of efficiency with increasing age. These
include the skin’s own protection, repair and renewal
processes. Reinforcing the skin’s own mechanism and
maintaining the homeostasis, and with it the timeless beauty of the skin, is a central focus of our researchers. This led
to the creation of, for example, the Cellular Defense Complex, that activates the skin’s own anti-oxidant network and
minimises the potential damage due to oxidative stress in
the skin.
Peptides to regulate the skin’s renewal processes in combination with tailored carrier systems are becoming another
strong focus. We create products which meet the wishes of
In the Swiss Ice Crystal project various plants and marine
vegetation, that could live and flourish under extreme
conditions, were researched
June 2014
Product development
Plus:
+++ International hair care trends +++
The latest developments in hair colorants +++
A close-up look at international marketing trends +++
Cosmopack review +++
COSSMA 6/2014 is published on June 2nd, 2014
50
COSSMA 5 I 2014
photo: Vita Khorzhevska, Shutterstock.com
Diana Sexauer,
head of the Springpool
agency, looks at future
hair care trends
Which ingredients produce the trendiest styles?
Focus: Hair care
100-06_EA_CosmeticNET_uk_100-06_EA_CosmeticNET_uk 22.04.14 13:04 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
www.cossma.com/suppliers
Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry –
news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites:
Find tomorrow’s
suppliers today!
Hersteller von hochwertigen
kosmetischen Verpackungen
www.cherbsloeh.de
www.dr-sacher-kosmetik.de
www.otto-cosmetic.de
www.diapharm.de
[email protected]
www.bottlemate.de
www.rationator.com
www.meding.com
www.neopac.ch
www.flavex.com
www.bayercosmetics.com
www.gerschon.de
www.geka-world.com
www.lohn-pack.com
www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
www.laus.de
www.beinio.com
www.trichema.ch
www.brenntag-gmbh.com
www.ampullenabfuellung.de
www.zellaerosol.de
www.seufert.com
www.pro-beauty-production.de
www.hhac.de
www.novel-care.de
www.cplaromas.com
www.neocos.com
www.derschlag.com
www.privatebrand.ch
www.unionpack.de
www.a-o-t.com
PUROLAN ENERGIZED BY
www.lanxess-distribution.com
www.systemkosmetik.de
www.Kosmetik-Konzept.eu
www.pack-it.de
www.klar-partner.de
www.etol.de
www.gscomputersysteme.de
www.rusi.de
www.ballerstaedt.de
www.kautz-design.com
www.mawi-chemie.de
www.symex.de
www.siriusmaschinen.de
www.domino-deutschland.de
www.intracosmed.ch
www.rettner.de
You can find further information of these
[email protected]/suppliers as well
as on their homepages (see Url below the logos).
Your logo can be listed here for just € 60,– per month
– for further information, please contact
Dorothea Michaelis
[email protected]
phone +49 (0)721 165-144
COS1405_CLR_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.14 13:02 Seite 1
www.cossma.com

Focus: Actives

Transcription

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