Study on CIP European Districts i

Transcription

Study on CIP European Districts
i
Cover Design: Truth Studio (Sheffield)
Acknowledgements: Kada Research would like to thank those involved in the study including officers
within Toscana Promozione, other local contacts who gave their time freely and textile experts from
across the EU who gave a valuable insight into their organisations and priorities for collaboration.
.
ii
CONTENTS
Sommario ....................................................................................................................................... 1
Introduzione ....................................................................................................................................................................... 1
Il settore tessile e di abbigliamento europeo in trasformazione ............................................................ 1
Il contesto locale .............................................................................................................................................................. 2
Possibili collaborazioni internazionali ................................................................................................................... 2
Executive Summary....................................................................................................................... 1
Introduction and Context ............................................................................................................................................ 1
The Changing EU Textile and Clothing Sector .................................................................................................. 1
The Local Context ............................................................................................................................................................ 1
Suggested International Collaborations .............................................................................................................. 2
Chapter One: Introduction and Approach ................................................................................. 3
Introduction to CREATE ................................................................................................................................................ 3
Our approach ..................................................................................................................................................................... 4
Report Structure ............................................................................................................................................................... 4
Chapter Two: EU Context ............................................................................................................. 5
Industry Overview – The EU Picture ....................................................................................................................... 5
Summary ........................................................................................................................................................................... 11
Chapter Three: Prato Context ................................................................................................... 12
Introduction ..................................................................................................................................................................... 12
Italian Textiles ................................................................................................................................................................. 12
Prato – Overview of the Textile Sector ............................................................................................................... 13
Prato – Strengths and Weaknesses of the Textile Sector ......................................................................... 14
Local Policy Responses and key players ........................................................................................................... 15
A Proposition for Prato – Why invest in Prato ............................................................................................... 16
Summary ........................................................................................................................................................................... 17
Chapter Four: Suggested International Collaborations ........................................................ 18
Measure One: Growing the Technical Textiles Market .............................................................................. 18
Measure Two: Knowledge Transfer in the Finishing Process.................................................................. 19
Measure Three: Injecting Creativity and Design into the Textile Value Chain ............................... 19
Measure Four: Promoting the Circular Economy ......................................................................................... 20
Measure Five: Bilateral Co-Operation Mission to Huddersfield............................................................ 21
Measure Six: International Trade Mission to Scotland .............................................................................. 22
POssible Next STEPs .................................................................................................................................................... 22
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Appendix One: Prato’s Value Proposition ............................................................................... 23
Annex Two: Consultees Partners .............................................................................................. 26
Consultees ........................................................................................................................................................................ 26
Collaboration Organisations ................................................................................................................................... 28
Annex Three: Project Collaboration Ideas (by Organisation) .............................................. 30
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SOMMARIO
INTRODUZIONE
Questa relazione, preparata per Toscana Promozione, esplora i Distretti Creativi Europei (CIP
Districts) . Questo lavoro è stato svolto nell’ambito del progetto CREATE che si basa sull’idea
che i distretti tessili CIP sono in grado di reagire alle nuove, mutevoli, condizioni del mercato
attraverso lo sviluppo di collaborazioni efficaci che risultino in una diversificazione della
produzione. L’idea è che se si applica quel che si chiama ‘approccio di valore di rete’
incoraggiando lo sviluppo di collaborazioni efficaci con le varie compagnie di Prato esiste
una grande possibilità di creare benefici concreti per tutti i partner coinvolti. In questo
contesto lo studio ha individuato alcune potenziali collaborazioni transnazionali che si ipotizza
possano aiutare i distretti CIP e le imprese locali a riposizionarsi ad un livello più elevato del
mercato tessile e della catena globale di approvvigionamento dell’abbigliamento.
L’obiettivo principale di questo studio è dunque quello di creare una rete di distretti tessili,
una rete che si basi su attività di cooperazione mirate a ottenere la crescita del business nel
settore tessile. A questo fine è stato fondamentale nel progetto il dialogo con i principali
stakeholders nel settore tessile sia in Europa che nel distretto di Prato (vedi Annex 2). Il
risultato è sintetizzato in una serie di possibili azioni/proposte a supporto di un settore in
continua trasformazione. Queste includono il tessile tecnico, conoscenza e transfer,
economia circolare e commercio internazionale.
IL SETTORE TESSILE E DI ABBIGLIAMENTO EUROPEO IN TRASFORMAZIONE
Il secondo capitolo di questa relazione fa una panoramica del settore tessile europeo,
descrivendo in dettaglio i ben noti problemi, il declino così come la rinascita del settore.
Inoltre viene messo in risalto come il quello tessile sia un settore capace di offrire nuove
soluzioni a problemi globali come l’inquinamento, la salute, trasporti, la protezione e la
comunicazione, evidenziando però che a questo scopo il settore ha bisogno di investimenti
nelle tecniche e nell’educazione, cosi come dello sviluppo di alleanze più efficaci fra industria,
università e governo. Infine non va dimenticato quanto sia importante, in particolare per
l'area di Prato adottare un approccio collaborativo rispettoso delle, e fondato sulle,
singolarità locali, così da riflettere le eccellenze locali cercando di “assorbire” e far proprie
anche le differenze fra le diverse imprese. Il capitolo presenta una panoramica delle regioni
europee, e dei fattori determinanti del loro successo, introducendo anche il concetto di reti
esistenti, nuove e complementari.
In conclusione presentiamo quelle che risultano essere le conseguenze in termini di attuali
necessità per il settore: migliorare R&D per le piccole imprese e il bisogno di lavorare su nuovi
temi collaborativi come l’innovazione, la creatività, il design e la leadership. In questo senso
esiste una eccellente opportunità per il distretto di Prato di sviluppare misure di grande
impatto per espandere le prospettive del settore sulla base delle eccellenti qualità presenti.
IL CONTESTO LOCALE
Il terzo capitolo descrive in dettaglio quelli che sono i punti di forza e di unicità dell’industria
tessile e della moda di Prato. Nel distretto ci sono circa 7000 aziende che esportano più di €2
miliardi l’anno. La produzione Italiana è caratterizzata dalla una grande flessibilità, dalla
capacita di innovare di continuo materiali, prodotti e processi ma anche da grande creatività e
stile eccellente. Queste qualità sono alla base dell'indiscusso primato mondiale del settore
tessile di Prato dove le marche locali sono riconosciute sia a livello locale che globale.
Tuttavia gli alti livelli di specializzazione che ciò richiede presentato problemi in termini di
frammentazione della produzione e mancanza di collaborazione effettiva fra le numerose
micro-aziende presenti nel distretto. Durante lo studio un gran numero degli intervistati ha
infatti descritto il settore tessile di Prato come altamente flessibile ma allo stesso tempo
tendente all’inclusione e quindi difficile da aprire a collaborazioni effettive con altri partner. É
evidente tuttavia un crescente desiderio di sfruttare le nuove capacità nel campo del tessile
tecnico. Infatti di recente ci sono state diverse nuove iniziative nel campo del tessile ed è
anche riconosciuta la presenza di numerose aziende capaci di fornire servizi in termini di
gestione, R&D, mercati e supporto al business nel settore tessile.
POSSIBILI COLLABORAZIONI INTERNAZIONALI
Tutte queste qualità costituiscono una prospettiva allettante per possibili investitori europei in
particolare nelle aree del tecno-tessile, sviluppo di gruppi cooperative, diversificazione e
innovazione nel campo ecologico. In questo quadro l’ultimo capitolo identifica una lista di
possibili collaborazioni che sono state studiate per essere facilmente implementabili ma che
forniscono anche non solo capacità di generare successi immediati così come possibili attività
trasformative nel lungo tempo.
Le interazioni proposte includono misure per promuovere la diversificazione nell’ambito del
tecno-tessile e knowledge transfer nei processi di finitura. Entrambe queste aree hanno
grandi potenziali nell’ambito dell’Horizon 2020.
Il capitolo comprende anche proposte per incentivare la creatività e il design e per sviluppare
ulteriormente l’expertese dell’area di Prato nel campo dell’economia circolare. Due proposte
di attività di collaborazione bi-laterali sono anche suggetite al team del progetto CREATE per
la condivisione delle innovazioni e dei nuovi sviluppi tecnologie e approfondire I legami
bilaterali di mercato. Le sei proposte sono riassunte nella seguente tabella.
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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
INTRODUCTION AND CONTEXT
This report, on behalf of Toscana Promozione, looks at Creative European Districts (CIP
Districts) across Europe. It is part of the CREATE Project which conceived on the premise that
CIP textile districts can respond to changing global market conditions through collaboration
and diversification. The idea is that by applying a so-called value network approach this will
result in a ‘win-win’ situation for all parties’ involved fostering genuine collaboration with
Prato companies. In response this study identifies several key potential transnational
collaborations which it is anticipated will help CIP districts and local firms reposition
themselves towards high value parts of the textiles’ market/clothing global supply chain.
The principle objective of this study is therefore to develop a mutually reinforcing network
between textile districts focused on co-operation activities with tangible business growth
outcomes for the sector. It involved dialogue with some of Europe’s and Prato’s leading
stakeholders in this field (see annex two) who informed a suite of measures to support the
areas’ continued transformation ranging from technical textiles to knowledge and transfer, the
circular economy and international trade.
THE CHANGING EU TEXTILE AND CLOTHING SECTOR
In chapter two an up-to-date picture of the EU textiles sector is painted charting its welldocumented challenges, decline and revival. The report highlights how textiles offer new
solutions for global problems, such as pollution, health issues, transports, protection, and
communication. The sector does however require further investment in skills and training and
would benefit from more effective university-business-government (triple helix) alliances. A
collaboration approach that respects and builds on local distinctiveness is important,
reflecting local conditions and the ‘absorption’ differences found within firms.
An overview of EU regions, clusters and critical success factors is provided and, the concept of
existing, new and complementary networks introduced. We conclude by highlighting
implications for the sector: improving R&D in SMEs and considering new partnership themes
of innovation, creativity, design, and leadership. This presents an exciting opportunity and
real challenge for Prato partners to build on their strong experience to develop high impact
measures to enhance the prospects of sector.
THE LOCAL CONTEXT
Chapter three of the report outlines several exceptional capabilities of the Prato textile
industry and fashion sector. Prato comprises some 7,000 textile companies exporting over €2
billion per annum. Italian-made production is characterized by flexibility; continuing and
incremental innovation in materials, products and processes; creativity and style. These assets
determine its quality and excellence on the world stage. Brand awareness globally and locally
is high. The high levels of specialisation also pose a challenge resulting in a fragmentation of
production and lack of inter firm collaboration. Several consultees pointed out that whist the
sector was highly flexible it could also exhibit a tendency to insularity presenting a genuine
challenge to partners. There is a keen desire from stakeholders to exploit the district’s
emerging capabilities in technical textiles. There have been a number of textile policy
responses to build on and there is a good mix of local support organisations offering
leadership, R&D, trade and business support measures for the sector.
SUGGESTED INTERNATIONAL COLLABORATIONS
The above assets provide a compelling proposition for investors and a narrative comprising of
technical textiles, cluster development, diversification and eco-innovation. The final chapter
of the report provides a menu of possible collaborations. These have been designed to be
relatively achievable and practicable and strike a balance between some early wins and longer
term more transformational activity.
The interactions include measures to promote diversification into technical textiles and
knowledge transfer in the finishing processes both of which could certainly provide credible
Horizon2020 submissions. There are also measures to boost creativity and design and build
on Prato’s expertise in the circular economy. Two bi-lateral missions are also proposed for
the CREATE team to share innovation and technology developments and deepen two-way
trade links. The six suggested measures are summarised below.
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CHAPTER ONE: INTRODUCTION AND APPROACH
INTRODUCTION TO CREATE
This study is part of a wider programme of activity developed as part of the CREATE project. It
is financed by the European Commission and the European Parliament, with Toscana
Promozione, Prato’s Chamber of Commerce, Otir2020 and Ade International. CREATE aims to
transform the traditional textile district of Prato into a highly competitive international
economy, making the most of the transformative power of innovation and creativity, and
improving co-operation between companies.
“This project aims to be the starting point through which to tell the world about Prato’s
productive capacity,” says Lorenzo Guazzini, vice president of Prato’s Chamber of Commerce,
“[The project aims] to make people understand that Prato can be a point of reference in which
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creatives, brands and industry experts can all find what they are looking for” . CREATE aims to
add value through innovation, creativity and cross-sectoral co-operation, providing the right
business services, promoting its cultural heritage and developing connections at a global
level. The outcome is anticipated to be a fashion district that is both innovative and dynamic.
CREATE includes three main types of activities. The first focuses on Mutual Transnational
Policy Learning providing concrete policy recommendations for the redevelopment of
creative textile districts through interaction with other relevant EU initiatives and experiences
and external expertise. The second activity focuses on Better Business Support. This aims to
provide a one stop shop delivering useful services to traditional textile companies and
creative professionals/companies introducing them to innovation and enhanced business
support. The final activity Facilitating Clusters and Networking Activities aims to propel EU
creative textiles into a leading position within a global context. It will do this through
identifying profitable partnerships and by building a brand that emphasizes an “identity of
excellence”. It is under this activity that this project was conceived (a description of subaction appear in the box).
3.1 Study on CIP European Districts. This activity includes the completion of a study that, applying the
Value Network Approach, will outline the profitable interactions of the Textile District of Prato with other
CIP European Districts (win-win approach). The study will draw on existing creative clusters to develop
cross-sectorial business co-operation with the companies located in the Prato District. The study will also
focus on sub-sectors and type of trans-national partnerships to be promoted.
1
http://fashion-valley.it/news/putting-the-creativity-on-the-map-project-create
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OUR APPROACH
First we undertook a short desk based review of the performance and prospects of the sector
across the EU and the position of the CIP district locally. Second it was important the team
had a clear understanding of the existing local international networks and activity to ensure
that the resultant proposals built on what is happening already. Local consultees highlighted
current activities within the sector to promote its competitiveness, how they see the sector
developing and what activities they would be most keen to pursue given local capabilities.
The idea here was identify how the CREATE project could add value to what they are trying to
do by exploiting international connections.
Once we had a good picture of what was happening locally the team drafted a ‘Prato
proposition’ so that it was clear what the district had to offer international partners. This
proposition set out some potential activities Prato might be interested in pursuing (see annex
one).
We then approached several EU CIP contacts to test their appetite for joint activity with Prato
and speak to them about potential activities (where they were comfortable to do so). They
were asked whether they were interested in the principle of working together with Prato
partners and what they were doing that might be of mutual interest (a win-win). Where
interest was shown the discussion progressed to potential joint activities. After the round one
discussions a short list of project ideas was drawn up in a project template and then refined.
This was followed up with further local calls to test and prioritise the ideas into a selective
number of activities matching interests both locally and with EU partners.
A full list of local and EU consultees is provided in annex two. A brief resume of potential
partner organisations is also provided. Annex three sets out a full list of potential partner
collaborations that were suggested.
REPORT STRUCTURE
The report is structured as follows:




Chapter two sets the backdrop for the study looking at the performance and
prospects of the EU textile and clothing sector.
Chapter three looks at the local textile context in Prato. This section builds on local
intelligence and insights and has informed the proposition for EU partners.
Chapter four identifies a short number of potential collaborations.
Further details are provided in the annexes – of the proposition, the consultees and
the organisations’ consulted and their priorities.
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CHAPTER TWO: EU CONTEXT
This picture looks at the changing dynamics of the EU textile sector, tracing how it has
restructured and reinvented itself. Although the textiles and clothing industry in Europe has
shrunk, there is real potential in innovation and exporting. Over the last two decades the
sector has been transformed and forms part of almost every industrial sector and many high
tech products. The chapter also looks at the location, formation and make-up EU textile
clusters, noting some key success factors in cluster development.
INDUSTRY OVERVIEW – THE EU PICTURE
In 2010 the EU textile and clothing industry had a turnover of €172 Billion and employed 1.9
2
million people in more than 127,000 companies . In terms of demand, the clothing and
home textiles market in Europe is, by and large, experiencing slowing growth in volume and
stability in value. Decline in the northern and southern member states has only partly been
compensated for by growth in eastern member states. The financial crisis led to a sudden
drop in demand for textile and clothing products, followed by a small recovery only in
Northwest Europe and Poland.
In general, changing consumption patterns and the impact of imports has tended to favour
lower priced items. While the luxury and high end section performs rather well (which Prato
excels at), there has been a squeeze in the middle segment of the market.
Whilst Europe is still competitive at the high end of the market where small batches and/or
very flexible and fast responses to market are required, European industry remains at a
disadvantage when it comes to supplying lower and middle parts of the market. Cost
competition continues to largely favour third countries (especially China) and the European
industry is no longer as competitive in volume markets.
Technical textiles are a good example of a growth segment within the overall market and this
sub-sector has been growing since 2000 at an average pace of 10% a year. There are signs of
a small scale renaissance in textile manufacturing in some areas in Europe, such as the UK.
Quality and supply problems from Asia, rising costs in China and an increased need to be
close to European customers, coupled with Government support across Europe for advanced
manufacturing, novel materials and innovation are cited as reasons for renewed interest and
demand growth. This augurs well for CIP districts such as Prato.
2
In-Depth Assessment of the Situation of the T&C Sector in the EU and Prospects Task 7: Synthesis Report for the
European Textile and Clothing Sector, Scheffer, December 2012.
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TEXTILE AND CLOTHING REGIONS AND KEY CLUSTERS
There are a number of textile clusters across Europe stretching from Scandinavia and northern
Europe, down to Iberia and Italy and across to Eastern Europe. The Scheffer SME report covers
eight specific textiles and clothing regions, some of which are joined in a trans-border region
– South Bulgaria and Galicia characterised by cut-make-trim sub-contractors; Northern Greece
and Northern Portugal which are in a medium stage of transformation and display low to
medium levels of specialisation; Eastern Slovakia characterised by a few large subcontractors
3
and like Ukraine, a number of small/micro workshops.
Outside of these regions there are other important textiles centres including places like
Yorkshire and the North West in the UK, Catalonia (Spain), Rhones Alpes and Atlantic West in
France, and also Scandinavia including Sweden and Denmark, all of which have their own
clusters and centres of excellence. Although the Prato region in Italy presents a high level of
entrepreneurship and specialization, in contrast to some areas of northern Europe, which have
been able to specialise and target new markets, it is still very much focused on the fashion
business and to date only a few examples of technical textiles have emerged in recent years
(high tech clothing for instance).
Clustering led by key support institutions often plays an important role when clients are
present in the same region, which has led to success in Northern France, Germany and the
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Netherlands. However, clustering is far less successful in Southern and Eastern Europe where
the methodologies involving policy makers, universities and industry such as the triple helix
concept are relatively new. The interests of industry, research and public authorities are less
aligned and a process of alignment is often less well managed because of lack of clustering
skills and resources. The costs of clustering are also higher since expertise, market intelligence
has to be imported. Clustering can be successful for different reasons (see box overleaf).
Whilst geographical proximity and similarity in challenges can be seen as encouraging
clustering and knowledge exchange, it could be argued that innovation through clustering
initiatives can also take place between sectors and regions that are not necessarily comparable
e.g. a textiles cluster interacting with an ICT or advanced manufacturing cluster. The advent of
new collaborative technology may facilitate knowledge exchange between the actors, though
it will not substitute the intangible benefits to be gained through face to face meetings with
potential partners.
3
North Portugal (PT); Galicia (ES); Central Macedonia (GR); South Bulgaria (BG); Nord-Pas-de-Calais (FR); Flanders
(BE); Prato (IT); Eastern Slovakia (SK)
4
Clusters help overcome barriers to market through knowledge and business exchange – events, networking, inward
and outward missions, trade fairs, exchange of good practice etc
6
In terms of market logic, the pull from customers is the main driver of innovation in northern
Europe, though some instances of suppliers driving this (Lombardy and Germany) are also
evident. In particular, innovation in technical textiles in France, Germany and Benelux is
primarily driven by clients, where a mutual dependency between suppliers and clients exists
because of the combination of tight specifications and quick response logic that drives the
industry. This is however not widespread throughout the textile sector in Europe as much of it
is fashion dominated.
INNOVATION
Innovation and exports are leading to pockets of incremental growth in northern Europe,
though not necessarily growth in sizeable employment numbers for the sector. There is the
potential of expansion through export especially capitalizing on the EU’s design and quality
leadership which is still unmatched. Exports and innovation are the way forward for the textile
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and clothing industry and should be a priority for all stakeholders and policy makers.
Scheffer highlighted fact that there is not enough support for non-technological innovation
i.e. business models, as well as the importance of user led innovation both of which are
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recognised as critically important in firm success . Co-creation of new ideas and solutions
5
Ibid
6
In-Depth Assessment of the Situation of the T&C Sector in the EU and Prospects Task 7: Synthesis Report for the
European Textile and Clothing Sector, Scheffer, December 2012
7
between suppliers and customers is increasingly important and this means developing skill
sets which may be more based on an open rather than closed mind-set. Scandinavian
operators have been especially good at using design and creativity as part of multidisciplinary approaches to developing new competences from which to derive value. This
clearly depends on the absorptive capacity of the managers and entrepreneurs at firm level.
Five key competitiveness areas, namely R&D, innovation, SMEs, restructuring and training
have been highlighted as particularly valuable. Whilst the transferability of practices and
partnerships are important factors influencing the sustainability of local clusters, there is a
disconnnect between R&D and SMEs in the textile and clothing sector, apart from in the field
of technical textiles. This includes commercialization of new products, processes and services
to underpin the growth in new global markets and the support which can be given to
business through institutions such as universities and economic development agencies.
Place based innovation through urban regeneration can be seen across Europe. The Nantes
‘Creative Quarter’ regeneration is an example of public and private organisations working
together to improve the local cultural and creative offerings which are often embedded with
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the textiles and fashion business.
SKILLS
Attracting new talent is a constant challenge. The textiles and clothing industry is generally
seen as low tech and low value, and many young people are not aware of exciting new
developments in fields such as wearable and advanced fibre technologies and technical
textiles. High skill levels, which are often embedded with customers, tend to be feature of
these new fields.
Skills issues include the poor image of the industry, the lack of continuous training leading to
a loss of technical know-how as older workers retire, and the difficulty of matching supply
and demand to business needs. This leads to a self-perpetuating vicious circle, which is
especially negative for SMEs which rely on human capital as a key asset to drive business
growth. However, dialogues in supply chains, could only be beneficial to regions that need it
most if competent regional agencies and networks exist. The solution to this problem is a
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prerequisite of any public support intervention.
The skills gap further illustrates the north south divide in Europe, with more than 50% of the
technology and clothing technology students going to Universities or other higher education
7
www.creationduquartier.com
8
Ibid
8
institutes in only three EU Member States, namely Germany, the UK and the Netherlands. In
Italy, France and the eastern member states, cohorts have shrunk and the number of students
is now far below a minimum replacement rate.
Leadership is highlighted as one of the essential management conditions to improve
company competitiveness. Faced with comparable constraints, in each European region,
certain companies have stood out because of their leadership skills. This can manifest itself in
terms of a higher degree of absorptive capacity in the form of openness to external
knowledge – an ‘eyes wide open’ approach. Competitive firms tend to involve themselves in
knowledge exchange networks and programmes (which need first to be created), preferably
of an international and innovation dimension.
INSTITUTIONAL SUPPORT, COLLECTIVE ORGANISATION AND
PARTNERSHIPS
Restructuring is an ongoing process in Europe. While some textiles regions did most of the
restructuring in the past, like in the Netherlands and Denmark, many regions are still facing
several restructuring challenges. The strategic responses of some public stakeholders have
been limited, in particular in the role of anticipating restructuring. The responses have tended
to be the initiative of individual companies, with little anticipation or support by industry
associations, with the exception of the Netherlands, or by regional/national authorities and
few strategic and comprehensive approaches post 2008.
Different forms of collective organisation will impact on potential collaborative opportunities,
and their effectiveness. Collective intervention is engineered through forms of selforganisation. The most common form of self-organisation is the industry association membership based, fee paying organizations offering a range of services. Associations can be
local (Italy), regional (e.g. Germany) or national (e.g. Netherlands). Their strength is their
legitimacy and continuity. The weakness is in their voluntary character and the risk of having
an agenda close to the lowest common denominator of all the members. This can inhibit the
role of associations as change agents.
However collective partnerships can also be organized in clusters. Or, it can be structured in
bodies with a specific aim, but having an associated form. In Germany research centres have
often the form of association with industrialists active as clients and as members of the
governance structure. The collective form of self-organization is very strong in the
Netherlands, and extends through the internationalization of Modint into other countries. It is
also strong in Germany, although fragmented between federal states and complex because of
the structuring of research centres as associations. It is also strong in Belgium and Portugal
around Centexbel and Citeve as industrial research centres. In France, Spain and Italy it is
9
fragmented with associations by product group and by region. In the Italian case, the regional
association provide effective platforms for exchange but less so of collective action.
In France, public interventions in fostering clusters have been successful often with
institutional backing embedded in a social dialogue or tripartite governance, regional clusters,
such as Forthac in Western France and Uptex in Northern France. The institutional context is
an essential element in assessing the transferability of partnerships, though not all are
possible to simply transfer to another context or country. Whilst the Rhineland model, such as
existing in Germany, is especially apt at fostering social dialogue, intense cooperation
between research and industry and exchange of practices between firms, the more market
oriented models existing in the UK and many eastern member states are not fostering
institutions that can be qualified as ‘partnerships’. Intermediate organizations (associations,
research centres) have an essential role in promoting competitiveness and developing
capacities to respond well to horizontally developed support policies.
Given the conditions outlined above, whilst there are examples of good practice, the need to
develop relationships/partnerships with a new set of actors/agents is necessary to effect the
cross fertilization of new ideas and knowledge exchange. Whilst specific initial points of
engagement like Horizon2020 provide a potential platform to develop collaboration
conversations, these pre-determined avenues should not be the only ones explored.
TRANSFERABILITY AND VALUE CONVERSION
As companies move up the value chain and specialisation becomes increasingly important,
there is an growing need to collaborate. The development of specialised technical textiles in
highly regulated markets (like aerospace and automotive) and sustainable products made
from biopolymers are cases in point. These often require wholesale changes in industrial
processes necessitating alliances with new suppliers. Good practice in this area has primarily
been in northern Europe – in particular northern France, Benelux and parts of Germany where
geographical proximity facilitates knowledge exchange underpinned by an economic or
market rationale.
The issue of transferability also impacts on organisations and partners that wish to act as
agents of change, since one of the main drivers of an organisation’s ability to effect change
9
and transfer good practice will be trust. It is not easy to transfer one idea to another country
– degrees of asset specificity exists – whether on a technological, business model or support
9
Value Network Analysis and value conversion of tangible and intangible assets by Verna Allee, published in Journal
of Intellectual Capital, Volume 9, No. 1, 2008, pp. 5-24
10
structure/ policy dimension. Building trust is important in facilitating the creation of
sustainable value conversion networks.
SUMMARY
Technical textiles are a growth area and present companies with an opportunity to innovate
both in product and business models. Northern Europe has been a leader in this field and
can offer learning to Southern Europe and Prato in particular. In a similar vein investment in
innovation and further internationalization will drive competitiveness. Whilst the
transferability of practices and partnerships are important factors influencing the
sustainability of local clusters, there is a disconnnect between R&D and SMEs apart from in
the field of technical textiles.
New partnership themes – innovation, creativity, design, leadership - should be explored
further. Given it is difficult to break into some existing networks, unless a (high) degree of
differentiation or value added can be demonstrated, new models should be considered.
This fits well with the CREATE project objectives. Skills and training issues, some of which are
structural and symptomatic of a declining industry (thus not easy or quick to fix) are a major
constraint on the growth of the textiles and clothing industry in Europe, especially those
more specialised areas such as technical textiles that do show signs of growth.
Institutional support has been behind the curve in anticipating industry changes across
Europe, whilst collective organisation and partnerships are conditional on national
characteristics and thus not easily transferable. Here regional clustering is important in
promoting innovation, to align research agendas of universities to industry needs, and to
develop adequate training programs, and a working triple helix is an important condition at
regional and national level to foster competitiveness. Measures reinforcing this concept are
present in many EU regions.
Whilst transferability can be problematic because of the different conditions that exist in each
country and the adopter dimension differences within firms, and are especially marked when
it comes to involving customers to help develop good practice. This requires a collaboration
approach that respects and builds on local distinctiveness.
For the reasons above, European partners – including universities, centres of expertise in
innovation and design, creative alliances - could potentially provide a diverse range of
interesting and complementary exchanges with the Prato region in different thematic areas,
such as design and innovation, creativity, commercialization, and up-skilling.
11
CHAPTER THREE: PRATO CONTEXT
INTRODUCTION
The previous chapter notes that the global fashion and textiles industry has changed
considerably in recent years, becoming characterised by demand and supply side changes.
Recent trends mean that mean factors such as innovative IP content, a high degree of
flexibility and customisation of design and production, closeness to customers, new business
models, international collaborative R&D and commercialisation have become quite significant
aspects of competitiveness.
This chapter contextualizes the position of Prato within the textile industry in Italy, identifies
the some of the key players relevant to this piece of work and outlines some of Prato’s key
strengths, challenges and opportunities.
ITALIAN TEXTILES
ITALY
The Italian textile industry, with a turnover of over €17 billion, comprising over 15,000
enterprises, represents 36.3% of European textile and clothing industries. Historically it has
been particularly diversified and distributed throughout Italy, with 88% concentrated in five
main regions. Key focal city points include Biella, Carpi, Castel Goffredo, Como, Prato, and
Vicenza. These regions are characterized by highly specialized SMEs often operating in niche
markets. However, there are also multinational groups (Gucci, Prada), especially in the luxury
segment, that are vertically integrated in their distribution systems.
Flexibility (ensuring quick response and customization), continuing and incremental
innovation (in materials, products and processes), creativity and style that characterize Italianmade production are the main assets that determine its quality and excellence on the world
stage. Within the sector the greatest area of production is wool, followed by chemical fibres,
cotton and linen. It is an important strategic area of manufacturing and integral feature of the
‘Made in Italy’ brand awareness.
TOSCANA
There are three main textiles districts in the Toscana region, namely: Empoli (10 local
authorities), Casentino-ValTiberina (20 local authorities in the Arezzo province) and Prato (12
local authorities). The Empoli district is characterised by small and very small enterprises
focused on the production of raincoats, coats and jackets and leather clothes. The area is not
12
specialized in only one sector, but represents the third industrial area in the region after Prato
and Florence. The Casentino-Val Tiberina district hosts industries mainly specialised in textiles,
clothes and leather products. The production of clothes is however the main sector with
many small and very small enterprises particularly active in the production of goods for
important national and international enterprises. The Prato district is described below.
PRATO – OVERVIEW OF THE TEXTILE SECTOR
Tuscan Fasion Sector (Business by Sub-Sector)
Prato Fasion Sector (Business by Sub-Sector)
The Italian district of Prato in Tuscany, which comprises some 7,000 textile companies
exporting over €2 billion per annum and, as indicated above, its strengths are in clothing.
Areas of specialization include wool, new fibres, software, fashion garments, and intermediate
products for the fashion, furnishing, medical, construction industries with a very strong
capacity to offer exceptionally high quality, rapidly produced products. Alongside mid-size
textile machinery makers, there are also a supply chain of dynamic micro-enterprises with
high level of specialization producing for instance accessories for the fashion industry (e.g.
fasteners).
Steeped in a rich heritage of classical textile craft production of wool yarns and fashion
textiles which dates back to the 12th Century and is embedded with genesis of the textiles
industrial revolution, Italian ingenuity has forged the “Made in Prato” label into one
synonymous with high quality, advanced skills and knowledge which are at the forefront of
the global textile and fashion industry. Iconic household fashion names like Gucci and Prada
help drive local textile demand. The textile industry in Prato includes the following areas:
weaving, finishing of textiles; other textiles (bedding, table dressing and furniture); rugs and
carpets; lace products; felt; production of clothing (including shirts, t-shirts, underwear and
clothing accessories, sport clothing or specialized clothing), and, knitting products.
13
PRATO – STRENGTHS AND WEAKNESSES OF THE TEXTILE SECTOR
Consultees note the sector is known for its creativity and capacity to continuously reinvent
textiles and knitwear products. A recent innovation has been a shift from two season
production to a continuous cycle resulting in an ability to respond to the different, and
sometimes urgent client demands. Prato enterprises are highly specialized in single aspects
of the production chain. The sectors’ strengths and challenges are highlighted below.
14
TECHNICAL TEXTILES AND INNOVATION
The recent growth in technical textiles in Prato, supporting the most demanding and
advanced global industries with novel and high-tech materials and composites, is a
demonstrable example of how local companies succeed by blending the Italian passion for
design, industrial agility, engineering excellence with an entrepreneurial mind-set and highly
supportive business environment. Examples appear in the box below.
LOCAL POLICY RESPONSES AND KEY PLAYERS
In 2008 a strategy for the sector was agreed by the Prato Council (Patto per Prato 2015)
identifying several work streams for the development of the textile sector. These are still
relevant and include a focus on innovation and investment to facilitate development,
improving infrastructures and improving working and integrated education policies.
Tuscany Promotion and partners support the Create4Prato project, which aims to transform
the traditional textile district of Tuscany (Prato) into a high internationally competitive
economic system (smart, sustainable, inclusive), by: adding value through innovation,
creativity and cross-sectoral co-operation; providing proper infrastructures and services;
branding and developing connections at global level. The policy challenge is to transform the
area in a truly excellent economic system, able to gain international visibility, and is deeply
linked to the ability to create an innovative, dynamic fashion district.
15
Specific assets and organisations which support this unique advanced manufacturing, design
and logistics ecosystem for textiles and fashion include the following.
A PROPOSITION FOR PRATO – WHY INVEST IN PRATO
In light of local discussion and intelligence there are several potential areas where Prato is
interested to engage with partners (and these formed the basis of discussions with partners
and ultimately the suggested measures in the following chapter).
16
SUMMARY
There are some key observations to make:






The Italian textile industry with a turnover of over €17 billion comprises over 15,000
enterprises, over one third (36.3%) of EU textile and clothing industries. Prato alone
comprises some 7,000 textile companies exporting over €2 billion per annum.
Brand awareness globally and locally is high and it key global attributes defining its
quality and excellence are flexibility, continuing and incremental innovation, creativity
and style.
Key strengths of the Prato textile industry include specialisation and entrepreneurial
creativity combined with a high propensity to export. The high levels of specialisation
are also a challenge resulting in a fragmentation of production.
Several consultees pointed out that whist the sector was highly flexible it could also
be quite insular presenting a genuine challenge to fostering inter-firm collaboration.
There are some good success stories in technical textiles and there is a keen desire
from stakeholders to exploit some of these emerging capabilities.
There have been a number of policy responses and there is a good mix of local
support organisations offering leadership, R&D, trade and business support measures
for the sector.
The above assets provide a compelling narrative and proposition for investors comprising
technical textiles, cluster development, diversification and eco-innovation.
17
CHAPTER FOUR: SUGGESTED INTERNATIONAL COLLABORATIONS
The brief for this study was clear – to develop profitable interactions between CIP EU districts.
A menu of possible collaborations has been designed to be relatively achievable and
practicable and strike a balance between some early wins and longer term, more
transformational activity. For each the rationale and contribution to the value network
approach has been identified alongside some potential partners, activities and next steps.
The interactions include measures to promote diversification into technical textiles and
knowledge transfer in the finishing processes and could certainly provide credible
Horiszon2020 submissions. These are concerns shared at both the EU level and locally with
stakeholders such as tecnotessile and the Camera di Commercio di Prato. There are also
measures to boost creativity and design and build on Prato’s expertise in the circular
economy. Two bi-lateral missions are also proposed for the CREATE team to Huddersfield
and Scotland to share innovation and technology developments (Huddersfield) and deepen
two-way trade (Scotland). The annexes which follow provide some details to help partners
wishing to take forward collaborations – the value proposition, partner details and
institutional priorities.
MEASURE ONE: GROWING THE TECHNICAL TEXTILES MARKET
Potential Partners
Theme(s)
Rationale and contribution
to value network approach
Summary description of
possible of engagement(s)
Possible activities
Next steps / actions
Tecnotessile (lead partners) and OTIR2020, Camera di Commercio di
Prato; Smart Textiles, University of Borås, Sweden; Saxony Textile
Research Institute, Germany
Diversification into Technical Textiles
Major transformation of the sector many new applications, industrial
sectors and end markets. Would increase the number of Prato Firms
diversifying into smart or technical clothing and other non-clothing
sectors (such as transport, construction/architecture, medicine).
Development of new functional materials and fibres exploring
opportunities beyond the fashion environment.
Three stage collaboration between university/commercial research centres
on diversification in technical textiles:

Stage One: Identifying areas/sub-sectors for collaboration and
exchanging experience.

Stage Two: Identifying companies and brainstorming with them
with assistance from researchers, labs.

Stage Three: Developing a research project with companies
wishing to diversify comprising new technologies, advice experts
and undertake testing.
Agree in principle whether worth pursuing and have further discussion
with both research centres about how an engagement might work eg
through a relevant H2020 call e.g. advanced materials.
18
MEASURE TWO: KNOWLEDGE TRANSFER IN THE FINISHING PROCESS
Potential Partners
Theme(s)
Possible activities
Camera di Commercio di Prato
Tecnotessile and OTIR2020, Prato
Huddersfield Textile Centre of Excellence
Smart Textiles, University of Borås, Sweden
Knowledge / Technology Transfer / Value Chain Project
Desire to further treat semi-finished products (‘semilavorato tessile’) into
final products using physical and chemical finishing processes to enhance
their aesthetic or functional properties. This would help move Prato firms
further up the production/value chain building on changes that are
already occurring.
Series of local industrial research projects to develop new textile finishing
technologies (eg coating and printing).
EU knowledge transfer programme with Prato companies:

Identify willing participant firms in Prato / partner organisations

Jointly diagnose/identify key barriers to moving up the value
chain

Diagnose key steps required to remove barriers and develop an
action research project in response

Partners then link with their respective local firms in a KT project
to pilot new processes

Share transferable good practice and document lessons learnt.
Agree with partners whether there is an appetite for a KT project of this
kind. Think about how this might be funded eg through COSME (Access
to Markets).
MEASURE THREE: INJECTING CREATIVITY AND DESIGN INTO THE TEXTILE
VALUE CHAIN
Potential Partners
Theme(s)
10
Lancaster University (Lancaster Institute of Contemporary Arts), UK’s
Design Council and Danish Design Centre. These partners (along with the
Politechnico di Milan) are already collaborating on the European Design
10
Innovation Platform (EDIP). CREATE Project team.
Creativity and Design
The CREATE project is looking to inject creativity into the textile value
chain. EDIP aims to increase the use of design for innovation and growth
across Europe.
Using design as a key driver of improving competitive performance and
Funded by the EU (www.designpolicy.eu), and led by the UK’s Design Council, the EDIP will be delivered over 3
years and aims to accelerate design-driven innovation in order to boost innovation, growth and job creation across
the EU.
19
Possible activities
helping companies to innovate and improve business management/
leadership. Developing new business models in order to help improve
SME business performance, collaboration and competitiveness.
Various options explored, including:
Involvement in EDIP as the project develops

Horizon2020, especially around future H2020 calls on
Development and Design Capabilities in SMEs (June-October
2014)

LU interested in European partners that have a network and
test-bed of companies

Explore other opportunities e.g. ICT 18 DG Scope: The scope
is to stimulate the adoption and deployment of innovative
ICT solutions by the creative industries SMEs/craft sector.
Agree in principle whether interested and decide lead partner from Prato
(perhaps the Chamber of Commerce). Introduce Tuscany to LU and other
partners around design and innovation to explore potential opportunities.
Follow up telecom / meeting with Lancaster University, Design Council
and Danish Design Centre.
MEASURE FOUR: PROMOTING THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY
Potential Partners
Theme(s)
Possible activities
Saxony Textile Research Institute; Smart Textiles, University of Borås,
Sweden (possible lead); Amsterdam / European Creative Industries
Alliance (to be confirmed), Scottish Enterprise, Water Conservation
Consultancy/Research Organisation and Tecnotessile
Circular Economy
Desire to improve the environmental impact of the production. The
introduction of more resource efficient processes to reduce the use of
water, energy, chemicals and water. Ideally this measure would involve
partners across the value chain researchers, suppliers, engineers and
customers. Would have economic and ecological benefits.
Through an EU collaboration each partner will demonstrate a resource
efficient technology or process. Each partner will choose a technology
that they would like to further develop (examples might include 3D
printing, laser or plasma technology or textile finishing).

The introduction of more efficient processes to reduce the use of
water, energy and chemicals and promote more environmentally
friendly production

Identifying and overcoming the barriers to the implementation of
new technologies.

Working on new chemistry, processes and/or machinery
solutions.
Decide whether there is scope for an industrial leadership bid eg under
Sustainable Processing Industry in Europe – SPIRE, Factories of the Future
or NanoFutures. H2020 NMP 18 Nano technologies - making use of water
and making industry more green. Different partners could take work with
20
a different material. Convene a call with potential partners to discuss next
steps.
MEASURE FIVE: BILATERAL CO-OPERATION MISSION TO HUDDERSFIELD
Potential Partners
Theme(s)
Possible activities
Huddersfield Textile Centre of Excellence, Huddersfield University, Kirklees
Council, CREATE project team Prato delegation, local firms from both
areas (to be confirmed)
Bilateral co-operation to discuss innovation and technology capabilities
There are some existing ties between these two CIP areas and they share
many of the same industrial challenges. There are several current
opportunities that merit serious further investigation and could be used to
bring new ideas for Prato firms.
Collaboration One: System commercialisation opportunity for multiplexed
laser surface enhancement. Market research into commercialising this new
technology into Italy. “Turning wet textile processes into dry energy
efficient-processes”. See link.
Collaboration Two: Collaboration with end users on technologies for 3D
Textile Materials and Components in new applications eg construction,
transport, energy and medicine. H2020 bid under eg factories of the
future, green vehicles or advanced materials (Industrial leadership pillar)
Collaboration Three: Fashion Security – Opportunity to purchase botanical
DNA markers to provide authenticate textile originality and provenance –
as a security measure against counterfeiters and thieves. (affordable,
product and brand protection, backed by forensic authentication). Prato
stakeholders have mentioned the challenge of 'tracciabilità' - finding a
way to trace back the origins of the product at the different stages of
production. So this may be of interest.
Collaboration Four: On-Line Learning modules – would Italy be interested
in translating these materials – they include some very up to date modules
on technical textiles Link and global marketing information on Market
Sectors, Technologies, Material Functionality and Materials.

Assess potential of laser technology and wet to dry processes.

Discuss joining a H2020 bidding team on 3D applications.

Learn about DNA protection measures, or

Translate and pilot new accredited on-line learning materials.
Agree in principle whether a mission would be mutually beneficial and if
so draw up a co-operation agenda.
21
MEASURE SIX: INTERNATIONAL TRADE MISSION TO SCOTLAND
Potential Partners
Theme(s)
Possible activities
Toscana Promozione (Lead), Unione Industriale Pratese, Scottish
Development International, Scottish Textile & Leather Association.
International Trade
Many Prato exporters are experienced exporters. Their future growth is
tied to greater internationalization and support to enter new markets or
deepen existing activity. Scotland’s second biggest textile trading partner
is Italy and the respective offers are quite complementary offering a winwin measure.
A two way trade mission between Scotland and Prato with buying and
selling opportunities for both parties.
The mission would involve bringing a group of Prato companies to
Scotland to learn first-hand about the market and meet face-to-face with
local buyers. It would be reciprocated.
Decide whether there is enough interest from Prato firms to deepen ties
with Scotland.
POSSIBLE NEXT STEPS
The CREATE partners may wish to consider the following next steps:





Whether there is an appetite for the two bilateral collaborations in the coming
months as part of the CREAT project.
Which other EU-wide interventions should be pursued and if so who should lead –
locally and internationally.
If EU collaborations are pursued a virtual meeting could be convened with interested
parties. Some serious preparation work will then be required around funding and
formulating suitable propositions for calls etc.
The best time and most suitable approach to start to engage end-users in an active
dialogue about potential measures.
How it will communicate its next steps with EU partners who have expressed an
interest in further discussion around possible future collaborations.
22
APPENDIX ONE: PRATO’S VALUE PROPOSITION
The global fashion and textiles industry has changed considerably in recent years, becoming
characterised by demand and supply side changes. Recent trends mean that mean factors
such as innovative IP content, a high degree of flexibility and customisation of design and
production, closeness to customers, new business models, international collaborative R&D
and commercialisation have become quite significant. The Italian district of Prato in
Tuscany, which comprises 7000 textile companies exporting over €2 billion per annum,
has been right at the very centre of this revolution and its companies are well positioned
to take advantage of renewed market demand. Areas of specialisation include for instance
wool, new fibres, software, fashion garments, and intermediate products for the fashion,
furnishing, medical, construction industries with a very strong capacity to offer exceptionally
high quality, rapidly produced products. Alongside mid-size textile machinery makers, there
are also a supply chain of dynamic micro-enterprises with high level of specialisation
producing for instance accessories (e.g. fasteners) for the fashion industry.
Steeped in a rich heritage of classical textile craft production of wool yarns and fashion
textiles which dates back to the 12th Century and is embedded with genesis of the textiles
industrial revolution, Italian ingenuity has forged the “Made in Prato” label into one
synonymous with high quality, advanced skills and knowledge which are at the forefront of
the global textile and fashion industry. The recent growth in technical textiles in Prato,
supporting the most demanding and advanced global industries with novel and high-tech
materials and composites, is a demonstrable example of how local companies succeed by
blending the Italian passion for design, industrial agility, engineering excellence with an
entrepreneurial mind-set and highly supportive business environment.
Sustainability and speed to market set Prato apart from other regions. The innovative reuse of water from local factories is an example of Prado’s commitment to the circular
economy, and strong ethos on environmental sustainability, whilst the Interporto logistics
platform provides Prato with multi-modal connectivity to the rest of the world.
Alongside iconic household fashion names like Gucci and Prada, which help drive local
textile demand, highly specialised companies like Piacenti
restoration) El En Group
11
12
12
11
(world leaders in wood
(world leaders in high tech medical lasers) are excellent examples of
www.restauratori.com
www.elengroup.com
23
the diversity and complementarity of industry specialisations, drawing on high quality local
skills and talent pool, which are a unique feature of the Prato landscape. Inward investors,
such as advanced manufacturing design company Ianmar from Japan, are testament to the
business growth potential, innovation networks and knowledge capital that globally minded,
savvy entrepreneurs and businesses are able to access locally.
Specific assets which support this unique advanced manufacturing, design and logistics
ecosystem for textiles and fashion include:
Fashion Valley
13
founded by the Prato Chamber of Commerce, this is cluster of
companies involved in textiles and fashion production, along with players market
application players and clients, which supports the creation of new technologies,
products, services and markets internationally.

OTIR2020
14
(Tuscan fashion innovation/ competitiveness cluster) – a world class R&D
and innovation centre for traditional and technical textiles, providing technical
assistance, technology transfer and support for the testing of new ideas.

15
Next Technology Tecnotessile
a public-private research organisation recognised by
the Ministry of Education, University & Research (MIUR). Focusing on improving the
technological innovation/company competitiveness with labs specialising in nanotech,
new materials, prototypes/automation, technical textiles & green technologies.

Toscana Promozione, Prato Chamber of Commerce, and the Unione Industriale
Pratese work closely together to support inward investors and high growth businesses.

CNA (Confederazione Nazionale dell Artigianto, Prato) – CNA (the Italian National
Confederation for Arts and Crafts) is a member based organisation supporting the
interests of primarily small companies, micros and arts/craft workshops.

PIN - PIN s.c.r.l. Educational and Scientific Services for the University of Florence (UNIFIPIN) is a non-profit research and development centre. It offers University research,
education and vocational training in advanced sectors.
Prato’s Requirements
Notwithstanding these collective strengths, Prato understands the need for, and is actively
seeking, further international collaboration in order to succeed in a globally competitive
13
www.fashion-valley.it
www.otir2020.it
15
www.technotex.it
14
24
world. It is seeking expressions of interest from organisations, partner cities and /or regions
that have companies/ end users which are interested in collaborating in the following areas.
1.
2.
Innovation of new products, services and technologies including a potential focus
16
on user led innovation and also non-technological innovation i.e. business models )
Circular economy and eco-textiles: sustainable production, circular production
chains and innovative materials.
3.
4.
Commercialisation including leadership and management and new marketing and
creativity expertise.
Partnership – connecting networks and clusters of textiles companies to other
industries which might provide complementarity and increasing focus on technical
textiles, non-standard textiles, non-woollen textiles.
5.
Internationalisation – accessing new high growth markets (either geographic, sector
or application based) and possible inward investment opportunities.
6.
Increasing skills and expertise levels in order to ensure that the textiles industry
remains both competitive and attractive to new talent.
Summary Offer
What does Prato Need?
1.
Further knowledge and expertise around technical textiles
2.
Clustering and triple helix support – transferable examples of how universities can
work to support local industry.
3.
The development of innovative textiles products and production practices (e.g.
commercialisation and new markets)
4.
Improved management of production and operation chain stressed by the
speeding of the production cycle.
5.
Working with new materials (easy to source), identifying potential opportunities for
working with high tech and medical industries and diversification of production.
What can Prato Offer?
16
1.
Design skills and high degree of flexibility / capability – Italian ingenuity
2.
Quick access to international markets
3.
A market for collaborating companies – clients providing supply chain access
4.
Emphasis on eco-sustainability and development of ‘green’ practices and systems
5.
Textile equipment manufacturing capabilities
Scheffer et al, 2013
25
ANNEX TWO: CONSULTEES PARTNERS
CONSULTEES
EU Contacts
Name / Role
James Devitt.
Strategy Manager
Bill Macbeth, MD
Dr Pammi Sinha,
Principal Lecturer in
Textiles
Tanja Muehlans
Dominique van
Ratingen / Joanna
van Antwerpen,
Coordinator /
Adviser
Gebhardt Reiner,
Head of
Communications
and Process
Management
Nils-Krister Persson,
Head of Smart
Textiles
Nille Juul Sorensen,
Director
Boris Meggiorin,
Head of
International
Development
Anne Chaize,
Adviser to President
Angela Carro,
Textile and fashion
department
John Mathers, CEO
Martyn Evans,
Director: Lancs. Inst.
for the
Contemporary Arts
Hazel Brodie,
Textiles Project
Manager
Organisation
e-mail
Web / Tel
Kirklees Council
Textile Centre of
Excellence
[email protected]
v.uk
[email protected]
[email protected]
http://www.kirklees.gov.uk/ / 01484
221672
http://www.textilehouse.co.uk/ / 01484
346500
http://www.hud.ac.uk/ourstaff/profile/in
dex.php?staffuid=sdesps3 / 01484
472653
Tanja.Muehlhans@senwt
f.berlin.de
http://www.creative-cityberlin.de/de/person/tanja_muehlhans/ /
+ 449-30-9013-0
Amsterdam Plus
European Creative
Industries Alliance
(ECIA).
Saxony Textile
Research Institute
(STFI) at Chemnitz
University of
Technology
Smart Textiles: The
Swedish School of
Textiles
Danish Design
Centre
d.vanratingen@amecboa
rd.com/
j.vanantwerpen@amecb
oard.com
http://www.amsterdameconomicboard.c
om/clusters/creative-industries / 0031
020-524 11 20
[email protected]
http://www.stfi.de/en/home.html / 0049
371 5274-0
[email protected]
http://smarttextiles.se / +4633-435 4218
[email protected]
http://en.ddc.dk/ 004531752909
Cluster Quarter
Nantes
boris.meggiorin@samoa
-nantes.fr; +
ERAI, Lyon
Excal Ade International
Castillia y Lyon
[email protected]
http://www.samoa-nantes.fr/en/ 00 33 2
51 89 72 53 / 02 51 89 54 32
http://it.erai.org/front/index.php / +33
(0)4 81 13 01 04
Design Council
[email protected]
john.mathers@designco
uncil.org.uk
http://www.excal.es/es/home.html
www.designcouncil.org.uk / 020 7420
5213
Lancaster University
[email protected]
www.imagination.lancs.ac.uk /
(0)1524510875
Scottish Enterprise
[email protected].
uk
www.textilescotland.co.uk
University of
Huddersfield
Berlin Senate Dept
for Economics,
Technology &
Research
26
Local Contacts
Name
Massimo
Bressan, Presidente
Dr.ssa Francesca
Grillo, Service
Manager
Lorenzo Incagli
Silvia Gambi,
External Relations
Director
Simone Marchi
Organisation
e-mail
Web / Tel
IRIS
massimo.bressan@irisric
erche.it
http://www.irisricerche.it +39 0574
607522
Confartigianato
Imprese Prato
Unione Industriale
Pratese
[email protected]
onfartigianato.it
http://asp.prato.confartigianato.it/dnnco
nfpo/ 0574-517784
http://www.ui.prato.it/unionedigitale/v2/
default.asp
Prato Chamber of
Commerce
Cna Prato - resp
economic area
[email protected]
m.it
[email protected]
t
[email protected]
27
http://www.po.camcom.it/ +39 0574
612715
Skype simone.marchi70 / 0574 578570
COLLABORATION ORGANISATIONS
Organisation
Huddersfield Textile
Centre of Excellence
Profile
Berlin Senate
Department for
Economics,
Technology and
Research
Amsterdam European
Creative Industries
Alliance (ECIA).
Creative City Berlin is the central platform for artists, cultural producers and the creative
industry. They keep customers informed about recent support about funding
programmes, scholarships, workshops, jobs or events. They analyse the market trends
of the creative industries and cultural happenings in Berlin. This forum gives a voice to
Berlin’s creative scene and connects it to other partners and platforms.
ECIA is an integrated policy initiative that combines policy learning with actions
including innovation vouchers, better access to finance and cluster excellence and
cooperation. It is an open platform that brings together policy-makers and business
support practitioners from 28 partner organisations and 12 countries. Its overall aim is
to shape a community in Europe that actively supports creative industries as a driver for
competitiveness, job creation and structural change by developing and testing better
policies and tools for creative industries.
The Textile Research Institute is a non-profit independent arm's length body employing
130 people of which more than 50% are in R&D. It has a focus on technical textiles with
the biggest textile laboratory in EU. Process-related and product-related research work
covers classical textile technologies as well as innovative technical solutions for a wide
range of applications. Expertise include the development of lightweight textiles, mobile
textiles, geotextiles, agro-textiles, eco-textiles, building textiles, lighting and sensor
textiles, textile filters and protective textiles. Recent innovations include recycling of
carbon fibre and dyeing and finishing technologies. They have also found lots of new
uses for knitting and weaving technologies with different applications from agriculture
to civil engineering. Development of new structures and fabrics for different
applications, improved personal protective equipment, textile structures for lightweight
construction, automotive engineering and aircraft construction. The institute is a
certification body for technical clothing. Currently 6 or 8 running EU projects but will not
be a lead partner currently.
Saxony Textile
Research Institute
(STFI) at Chemnitz
University of
Technology
Training and technology centre with a technical workshop and research and producttesting laboratory. The 20,000 sq ft centre also has a fully equipped clothing studio, IT
training suite and award winning multi-media meeting and conferencing facilities.
Smart Textiles: The
Swedish School of
Textiles
The concept of Smart Textiles was to bring two textile worlds together in an attempt at
creating synergies which would take the form of sustainable innovations for the future.
The Smart Textiles Initiative offers a unique research environment in everything from
fibre technology to design as well as access to the machine park and the skilled
technicians at the Swedish School of Textiles.
Danish Design Centre
This centre is a not for profit centre, their main funding comes from the Danish state to
help Danish business benefit from design, innovation, creativity etc. There is a focus on
new materials and new technology. The majority of their work is within Denmark with
municipalities and private companies, but have collaborated internationally for instance
with Japanese city of Fukuoka to help it become more creative (funded by Copenhagen
and Fukuoka municipalities).
28
Nantes, Samoa
Nantes
Design Council
Lancaster University
(Imagination
Lancaster)
Scottish Enterprise
This is a public local development company that develops public areas, infrastructure
and urban development as well as running special projects to regenerate the area and
help economic diversification. Currently the company has a 20 year contract (since 2003)
focusing on the redevelopment of the western Atlantic urban area and the Ile de
Nantes. One of the main current projects is the development project Creation du
Quartier, which aims to address the economic regeneration of the area through the
development of the cultural and creative industries. Note: not interested in collaboration
at this stage.
The Design Council was formerly a government body registered charity, but is now
moving towards a consultancy model by selling services. It uses design to stimulate
innovation, improve the built environment and tackle social issues. It inspires new
design thinking, encourages public debate and informs government policy.
ImaginationLancaster is an open and exploratory research lab that investigates
emerging issues, technologies and practices to advance knowledge and develop
solutions that contribute to the common good. It conducts applied and theoretical
research into products, places and systems – using innovative strategies that combine
traditional science and social science methods with the practice-based methods arising
from the arts. Emphasis is placed on productive collaborations to create desirable and
sustainable futures. Areas of research span education, health, culture, the leisure sector,
media, transport, manufacturing and the environment.
Scottish Enterprise identifies and exploits opportunities for Scotland's economic growth
by supporting Scottish companies to compete, helping to build globally competitive
sectors, attracting new investment and creating a world-class business environment.
29
ANNEX THREE: PROJECT COLLABORATION IDEAS (BY ORGANISATION)
Potential Partners
Theme(s)
Decisions to be made
Potential Partners
Theme(s)
Huddersfield Textile Centre of Excellence
Innovation and technology.
Collaboration One: System commercialisation opportunity for
multiplexed laser surface enhancement. Market research into
commercialising this new technology into Italy. “Turning wet textile
processes into dry energy efficient-processes”. See link.
Collaboration Two: Collaboration with end users on technologies for 3D
Textile Materials and Components in new applications eg construction,
transport, energy and medicine. H2020 bid under eg factories of the
future, green vehicles or advanced materials (Industrial leadership pillar)
Collaboration Three: Fashion Security – Opportunity to purchase
botanical DNA markers to provide authenticate textile originality and
provenance – as a security measure against counterfeiters and thieves.
Collaboration Four: On-Line Learning modules – would Italy be
interested in translating these materials – they include some very up to
date modules on technical textiles Link and global marketing information
on Market Sectors, Technologies, Material Functionality and Materials.
Decide whether Prato would be interested in looking at the potential of
laser surface enhancement technology through market research, visits by
companies/manufacturers etc. This would give first mover advantage in
this technology.
Decide whether end user collaboration on 3D technologies is of interest
by joining an EU Technology Platform grouping looking at H2020.
Is there interest in DNA security protection measures? (affordable, product
and brand protection, backed by forensic authentication).
Potential for commercialisation study on laser technology and wet to dry
processes. Potential to join a H2020 bidding team on 3D applications,
purchase DNA protection measures or translate new accredited on-line
learning materials.
Saxony Textile Research Institute
Technical Textiles / Composite Recycling
Collaboration One: Three stage collaboration between university
research centres on diversification in technical textiles:

Stage One: Identifying areas/sub-sectors for collaboration.

Stage Two: Identifying companies and brainstorming with
companies.

Stage Three: Follow-up - find experts and undertake testing.
Collaboration Two: New Recycling Technologies. Composite recycling
and reuse of by-products into new products eg for automotive.
Agree in principle whether worth pursuing and have further discussion
with both research centres about how an engagement might work eg
through a relevant H2020 call. Think about other possible partners for
both technical textiles and recycling.
30
Whether Tecnotessile might be able to collaborate in the technical textile
programme.
Whether recycling composites is of interest.
Potential Partners
University of Huddersfield Centre for the End of Life Management of
Textiles Research Group & Kirklees Council
Creativity and Innovation in Textiles / Circular Economy.
Collaboration One: Huddersfield University would be interested in a
three stage “drivers for creativity and innovation” study looking at:

Evidence Gathering: Reviewing how the textile sector has
changed and identifying key influences and drivers of innovation.

Developing a toolkit to help try and predict what might happen
in the future in the sector.

Undertake a pilot ‘action research’ study to test and refine the
tool with a company willing to participate.
Collaboration Two: Looking at the remanufacture of textiles and
effective company approaches to sustainability. Which measures are most
effective, can be taken forward and in what context?
Collaboration Three: Fashion exporting for less experienced exporters –
a friendly stepping stones project offering a soft land place for new
exporters and perhaps involving a trade mission to help firms that tend to
trade locally to think wider.
Decide whether an action research project of this kind might be useful for
Prato to help companies diversify. Think about partners for
remanuafcture and sustainability.
Whether Tecnotessile would be willing to collaborate in the technical
textile programme. Whether recycling composites or exporting for new
exporters is of interest.
Theme(s)
Potential Partners
Theme(s)
Smart Textiles, University of Borås, Sweden
Technotextiles, innovation
There are two strong areas of possible collaboration:
Collaboration One: Development of new functional materials and
fibres exploring opportunities beyond the fashion environment. Research
project on new materials with their researchers and labs involving Prato
firms. Focus on the development of new business, new jobs and new
innovative textile products.
Collaboration Two: Also strong interest in sustainability issues,
environmentally friendly production and products. In their approach
durability, life time, quality and function are important concepts for
sustainable development.
1. Request more information on development so far.
2. Collect intelligence on technotextiles and innovation in Prato
3. Could develop a research project supported by Create but with
research European funding, involving their academic staff and
Prato and Swedish companies.
4. Possible visit needed, possibly involving Dario or somebody
31
Potential Partners
Theme(s)
Potential Partners
Theme(s)
Potential Partners
Theme(s)
working on technotextiles in Prato.
Decide if it is an area of interest. Their work only focuses on Swedish
companies through Government funding and they are interested in
collaborating with Prato industries to explore new opportunities.
Lancaster University (Lancaster Institute of Contemporary Arts). Lead Dr.
Martyn Evans, Director
Use of design in innovation and business management to help
improve SME business performance and competitiveness. E.g. The
European Design Innovation Platform (www.designpolicy.eu) aims to
increase the use of design for innovation and growth across Europe.
Led by the Design Council, the European Design Innovation Platform
(EDIP) will be delivered over 3 years and aims to accelerate design-driven
innovation in order to boost innovation, growth and job creation across
the EU. Keen to discuss H2020, especially around H2020 calls on
Development and Design Capabilities in SMEs (June-October 2014). and
explore other opportunities. Interested in partners that have a network
and testbed of companies.
Martyn suggested a meeting in Brussels in 4-5 weeks’ time to discuss
more details and explore opportunities further.
Agree in principle whether interested. Introduce Tuscany to LU.
Follow up meeting with Martyn/LU
Design Council. Eddie Walker, Head of Strategic Partnerships
SMEs and design creativity/ supply chains - corporates and SMEs working
together. e.g. Led by the Design Council, the European Design Innovation
Platform (EDIP) will be delivered over 3 years and aims to accelerate
design-driven innovation in order to boost innovation, growth and job
creation across the EU.
Use of design in innovation and business management to help improve
SME business performance and competitiveness. (www.designpolicy.eu).
Design Council interested in strategic partnerships internationally
Specific H2020 interest is around open innovation and healthcare and
prevention
Conference call with Tuscany to discuss scope detailed opportunities,
which would involve Futures Programme Director (responsible for
international) and possibly H2020 team.
Agree in principle whether interested based on DC business model
Introduce Tuscany to DC and arrange concall with DC.
Scottish Enterprise




Design exchanges/learning journeys
Environmental/Sustainability issues – plasma laser (wet to dry)
Sustainable fibres
International Trade Mission through SDI
32
Potential Partners
Theme(s)
17

Amsterdam / European Creative Industries Alliance
ICT, Circular Economy
Keen to discuss H2020 and other opportunities (eg COSME)
Short term: further exploration of specific calls (note they do not want to
be project leads)

H2020 NMP 18 Nano technologies is about making use of
17
water and making industry more green link . Different partners
could take work with a different material.

ICT 18 DG Scope: The scope is to stimulate the adoption and
deployment of innovative ICT solutions by the creative
industries SMEs/craft sector.
Medium Term:

COSME – cluster collaboration – regional textile clusters working
together to increase SME competitiveness.
Agree in principle whether interested
Approach other partners
THEY ARE WORKING ON THEIR PRIORITIES INTERNALLY BEFORE THEY
COMIT TO ANYTHING AND WILL KEEP TOSCANA INFORMED
The development of innovative material solutions for use in the creative industry sectors based on waste or process
by-products to produce new materials or adopting bio-mimetic approaches. A sustainable and socially responsible
approach to reduce energy consumption and environmental impact should be clearly demonstrated.
33
34

Study on CIP European Districts i

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