Assembly and Installation Instructions

Assembly and
Installation Instructions
for
Saildrive 330 MkII
Nyköpings Marinkonvertering AB
Rev. March 2009
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IMPORTANT: Read the Installation Manual and the
Operating Manual thoroughly before you begin
installation. Installation must follow CE-regulations.
This manual contains information on assembly, mounting and installation of
the Saildrive 330MkII. Before installing, read this entire manual.
Things to consider before installation
Make sure that the engine is installed so that you have easy access for
service and maintenance. Maintenance includes changing the oil (draining
and filling – filling can also be done via the hole for the oil dipstick on
starboard the side), changing the oil filter and spark plugs, draining the
carburetor, or adjusting the valves, etc. If you have trouble reaching areas
for maintenance, you can install hatches on both sides.
Service hatches are available in different sizes depending on your needs.
Type Plastimo hatches
The upper part on the gearshift lever rod should be turned approximately 6
turns. It is assembled together with the U-link connector and should be
locked with a cotter pin. You need to be able to reach the front face of the engine.
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Use the measurements on the specifications page to check the clearance
levels so the engine can to be lifted in and out without problems.
Determine how the engine area's ventilation blower will be assembled.
The blower pickup should be placed as so low as possible.
The supply of air to the engine area needs to be as high up as possible. In
and out exhaust hoses need to be at least be 3” (75 mm) in diameter.
The engine room insulation should be made of flame retardant material.
Fuel hoses should be of type ISO 7840, ¼” x 5/8” (6 x 16 mm) (CE, USCG).
The exhaust system:
It is always desirable to install the exhaust hose for the shortest distance
possible. A shorter hose improves the power and idle characteristics.
The exhaust hose should be at least 1-1/8” in diameter (30mm) and should
not be longer than 15 feet (5 meters) including the standard Vetus LP30
water lock.
NMK AB could provide a shorter and lower stainless (D=120 mm) water trap.
Important! The waterlock/muffler must always be mounted so that the water
drains down from the engine into the water trap when the engine is turned off.
In other words, the exhaust hose and the water trap cannot angle upwards
from the engine! (See sketch of hose drawing on next page.)
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The Vetus waterlock can, however, be turned 45 degrees sideways. (See
schematic of hoses at the end of this manual.)
IMPORTANT: If the exhaust system is improperly
installed, it can cause severe damage to the engine.
Installing engine bed:
Important! It is desirable to mount the engine bed as high as possible (see
measurements), to minimize projection of the drive leg outside of the hull. The
engine bed can be extended to increase the height of he engine, but that would
entail additional fiberglass work. Ensure there is sufficient room in height (at
least 25-1/2”) for lowering the engine into the bed (see measurement diagram
on the next page) before permanently glassing-in the engine bed.
If there isn’t enough clearance to install the engine in the engine bed, the
power head can be removed for the installation and reattached after the leg
is installed.
For determining the centerline position of the engine bed, measure on the
outside of the hull drawing a line between the keel and the rudder and
drilling a hole. Do not depend on taking the measurement from the interior
because that may not be accurate.
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Once the Engine-bed position has been located in the hull, it is easily
marked for cutting with a block of the appropriate height.
After marking the Engine-bed at the appropriate height, cut the engine-bed
around the mark.
The Engine bed is glassed to the hull both around the outside of the bed,
and around the hole cut in the hull for the drive leg, as shown in the
following diagrams. Photo's of the process follow.
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After glassing-in the engine bed, apply topcoat.
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Instrument panel:
The instrument panel should be installed in a convenient location where it
can be seen and easily reached by the helmsman.
The hole for the instrument panel is a rectangle 9” x 5” (230 x 130 mm).
The instrument panel contains:
- Ignition switch and key for starting and stopping the engine and that
includes a choke function.
- An oil pressure warning light.
- An alarm will sound (” buzzer”) if the oil pressure is to low.
- A place for switches to the engine room blower.
- A place for digital tachometer, hour meter, or other small instruments.
Throttle/Gearshift Control:
The engine can be delivered with standard throttle control (Teleflex
DXB700).
Motor controls will be provided with free-link so that throttle only can be
done.
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Before the engine is mounted:
The drive leg must first be removed (if this not already is done):
- Remove cotter pin and the U-ring link from the gear-shift mechanism with a
needle nose pliers.
- Turn the shifting rod anti clockwise 6-8 turns until it’s free.
- Familiarize yourself with how the vertical shifting rod and the U-ring link
functions.
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Loosen the four 8mm screws holding the drive leg and carefully pull the
leg off.
Assembly of the engine unit:
Installation is done in the reverse order. Make sure the water pipe connects
to the rubber seal on the water pump.
Install the rear rubber cushions to the engine bed. Attach the forward
Cushions and brackets to the engine (pictures in Owners manual could be looked at).
The large rubber-sealing ring should be mounted dry (no lubricant). The
ring should be placed as far down on the engine’s sealing surface as
possible. (See picture and sketch below.)
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When the engine is lowered into the engine bed, the ring should roll half a
turn ending up squarely at the bottom of the seat in the engine bed. (See
picture.) If you are uncertain, shine a flashlight from below to check. This
is VERY important since the sealing ring is a part of the engine mount. An
improperly mounted sealing ring can damage the engine plate!
After the engine is in place, apply a little grease on all engine-mount bolts
before nuts are installed.
Adjust the aft end stops to 9/16” (10-15 mm) above the engine plate.
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Assembly of gear-shift housing:
The lower part of the water-cooling tube is “telescopic” in order to facilitate
assembly. First pull out the lower tube about 2 ¾” (70 mm) with pliers.
Push the tube up and down with grease once in order to check the function. Grease
thelower-end of the water-cooling tube and the bolt holes with water-resistant
grease.
When the gearshift housing is reassembled, the water-cooling tube is simply
inserted into the water pump hole/grommet.
Push down on the black shifting rod in bottom to establish the reverse
position (at the same time, slightly turn the propeller shaft). Grease threads
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of the shifting rod connection and the upper driveshaft splines with a little waterresistant grease.
To finish assembling the gearshift housing, insert the water-cooling tube
into the water pump hole/grommet. Then slide the drive shaft splines together wit the
crank shaft. You may need to turn the flywheel slightly in order to make them fit.
Permanently attach the gearshift housing with the 4 stainless 8mm allen
bolts.
Assembly of the gearshift mechanism:
This can be little “tricky”. You will need a channel lock and needle nose pliers
to facilitate the work.
To connect the gearshift rod to the lower unit, turn the shifting rod
clockwise as you lightly press downward on the gearshift rod. Then turn
the gearshift rod 6-8 turns (could be used as gear adjustment).
Attach the U-link to the gearshift rod and secure with a cotter pin using the
needle-nosed pliers. (See pictures below.)
(gearshift in back position)
(secure U-ring with cotter pin)
The gearshift rod
Bottom position=Reverse
Middle position=Neutral
Upper position = Forward
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Important! To facilitate finding the neutral position, detach the gearshift rod
from the pivot as shown in the picture. Put the gearshift lever in the neutral
position and then adjust the gearshift cables so the rod fits onto the pivot.
Gearshift (inner cable)
With the gearshift lever and the motor in neutral, fasten the cable to the
brass nipple on the motor, locking it in the correct position (This operation is easier
when engine is running).
Throttle (outer cable)While the gearshift lever is the neutral position, fasten the
plastic nipple
and throttle cable with a cotter pin. Ensure there is some play in the cable
so the idle can be adjusted.
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Connection of exhaust hose and water-cooling systems:
The anti-siphoning device valve is an ”open” type.
This has the following characteristics:
- Some of the cooling water exits via a small thru-hull by way of the antisiphoning tube
- Water coming out the thru-hull indicates water is flowing through the
cooling system and the anti-siphoning device is functioning properly
- No periodic maintenance required
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Connect a 3/8” (10 mm) reinforced water-cooling hose to the thermostat
housing.
Fuel systems:
Connect the fuel hose to fuel pump. The fuel hose should be certified for
gas engines ISO 7840 (USCG approved), ¼” x 5/8” (6 x 16 mm).
Install a fuel filter with a water separator (type CAV or equivalent) for
proper fuel management.
Also install a fixed fuel tank and engine room fan according to CE (Europe) or U.S.
Coast
Guard Regulations for pleasure boats.
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Electrical System:
Always install a main switch between the battery's (+) pole and the
engine starter motor.
Connect the wire harnessesses 7-pol connectors.
Also, connect the 2-line wire the for the oil pressure lamp/buzzer . Two (male and
female connectors) in front of the engine.
Electrical schematic is provided in the Owner’s Manual.
Always install an engine room fan.
Measurements:
Starboard and Aft view measurements are shown with U.S. customary and
metric measurements. Measurements in parenthesis are without protection
hood.
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STBD
View
AFT
View
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Special Situations: (For small engine areas)
For engine rooms without adequate vertical clearance, the power-head can
be dismounted from the lower unit (see picture) and reattached after
installation of the lower unit. An experience mechanic is recommended.
To separate the power head from the lower unit: remove the 10mm cap
screw with and allen wrench. Remove the 8mm screws from underneath.
After removing all the screws, separate the mounting plate from the lower
unit.
Unscrew the upper nipple from the gearshift rod (affixed with Loctite).
After installing the lower unit, re-attach the power head to the lower unit.
The gearshift rod must be re-assembled with Loctite.
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All old silicon sealant/caulking-compound must be removed from the
mounting plate and lower unit and cleaned with acetone.
Re-attaching the power-head and mounting-plate to the lower unit should
be performed by a skilled mechanic. Motor oil reservoir and other
important sealing surfaces must be mounted with o-rings and special heatresistant silicon. This requires a lot of cleanliness and precision.
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