Servicing Oil Stoves

Transcription

Euroheat Distributors (H.B.S.) Ltd.,
Unit 2, Court Farm Business Park,
Bishops Frome,
Worcestershire,
WR6 5AY.
Servicing Instructions for
Harmony & Stanford
Oil Stoves
EFEL
Euroheat Distributors
(H.B.S.) Ltd.,
Unit 2, Court Farm
Business Park,
Bishops Frome,
Worcestershire, This document may also be used when servicing the Nestor Martin Oxford oil
WR6 5AY. stoves, C80 & C100, and the Nestor Martin Hearth oil stoves, A80 & A100.
© EUROHEAT DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD. April 2007
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Instructions Part number IN1193 Edition A
INTRODUCTION
Servicing your stove should not be seen as a chore but rather the means to getting the most efficient use and
increasing the life of the stove. A badly maintained stove will run inefficiently, so you will burn more fuel, and
if left unmaintained for a period could seriously damage the component parts within the stove which will then
need replacing.
This booklet details the aspects of servicing and routine maintenance required.
Other documents obtainable on request from Euroheat
IN1023 Operating Instructions Oil Stoves.
IN1026 Installation Instructions Oil Stoves.
IN1087 Technical Guide. The Flue.
TB179 Technical Bulletin Transformer Identification and Fitting Instructions.
TB115 Technical Bulletin Toby Oil valves.
TB138 Technical Bulletin BM Oil valves.
TB137 Technical Bulletin CI Oil valves.
These guides are available by post by from Euroheat or our web site
www.euroheat.co.uk
Spares may be purchased from:
Your local Euroheat supplier
The Euroheat web site: www.euroheat.co.uk
The service engineer is responsible under the health and safety at work act 1974 vi the caustic nature of fire
cement and the possibility of disturbing asbestos and other materials such as ceramic in existing installations
and to suggest appropriate protection to be given to the person (s) carrying out the servicing. The complete
servicing must be carried out with due reference to the British Standards, Codes of Practice and Building
Regulations relevant to the fuel type installed, and the manufacturers installation instructions.
This document is a General Service Guide only. It does not replace the installation instructions or building
regulations. No servicing should be undertaken unless the engineer is suitably qualified.
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Maintenance Schedule
1. Monthly
Every 2 weeks or monthly depending on how cleanly the stove is burning the decoke tool should be used to
stop carbon building up in the oil inlet port. See pages 13 to 15.
2. Every 3 Months
Turn off the stove and remove the coal effect kit if fitted. Examine the catalyser, support rings and the burner
for any build up of carbon and remove if necessary. See pages 16 and 17.
3. At the End of the Heating Season (Summer Shut Down)
A) Do all the above in the monthly and 3 monthly procedure.
B) Turn off the oil line isolation valve which should be at the rear of the stove. See page 23.
C) Lubricate all the handle shafts and latch blades with a lubricant such as WD40.
D) Arrange with your local engineer to have the stove serviced during the quieter summer period when the
demand for the engineers time is less.
4. At the Start of the Heating Season
A) Check the door rope seals so as to ensure an airtight seal. See page 9.
B) Turn on the oil line isolation valve which should be at the rear of the stove. See page 23.
C) Remove the coal effect kit, if fitted, and ensure that there is no oil in the burner pot. If there is, remove this
before lighting the stove.
D) Ensure that the metering stem remote arm is moving up and down when the oil control knob is turned up
and down. See page 18 to 21.
D) Light the stove as shown in the stove’s operating instructions.
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The Main Components of the Harmony and Stanford Oil Stoves
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Cleaning the Stove
Cleaning the Glass
Properly operated, with the correct fuel, your glass will remain clean. Slight staining may appear when the
stove is lit and below its operating temperature. This will normally clear as the stove’s temperature rises.
If it becomes necessary to clean the glass by hand do not attempt to do so unless the stove is cold. Proprietary
glass cleaning agents are available but they must specifically state its suitability for ceramic stove glass before
being used because the glass in your stove is not ordinary glass and may be damaged with an unsuitable
cleaner.
Newspaper moistened with water to which a little vinegar has been added will normally remove most staining,
but for really stubborn marks, gentle polishing with fine steel wool lubricated with a few drops of dish washing
detergent will need to be employed. Great care must be taken not to clean the glass too vigorously as particles
of grit may have adhered with the stain and these could cause scratching if dragged across the glass. However
well the stove burns it will eventually become necessary to clean the glass, but if cleaning becomes necessary
too often we advise you to review your operating procedures to determine whether cleaner and more efficient
combustion can be achieved (only burn dry seasoned wood).
The Stove Body
Dusting the stove may be carried out when the stove is at its minimum heat output temperature, using light
strokes of a real bristle paint brush. Thorough cleaning, or any attempt to remove marks on the stove body must
only be done when the stove is cold. Stoves with an enamel finish should be cleaned with a damp cloth, or very
gentle use of a cleaner recommended for enamel finishes. It should be noted that even approved cleaners will
damage the highly polished finish of the stove if used too vigorously. All traces of the cleaner must be removed
before the stove is lit and no finishing polishes must ever be used as these will leave unsightly streaks on the
stove when it becomes hot.
Stoves with a cast black finish should never be cleaned with a cloth as the texture of the paint will abrade and
collect lint from the cloth which will be almost impossible to remove. Vigorous brushing with a stiff real bristle
paint brush will remove all dust, but where the paint is marked, the stains are better obliterated with a spray
of suitable stove paint rather than attempts made to clean them off. Suitable paint may be purchased from a
stove shop or direct from Euroheat.
Respraying the Stove Surface
Remove any dust and dirt with a stiff brush or vacuum with a brush attachment. Mask off any
areas of the stove you do not wish to re-spray and the area surrounding the stove. The door
handles and doors can be removed if required; see the section on hinge pin removal and door
handle adjustment, page 6 and 9.
Shake the can vigorously for a minute to mix the contents and apply the paint thinly and evenly
over the surface, avoid over application as this will produce unsightly runs on the surface. It is
better to use a few thin coats than one thick one.
Order numbers for spray paint
Surface to be Sprayed
Part Number
Size of Can
Cast iron body
Rear heat shield
40785
60429
200ml
400ml
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Repair of the Enamel Surface
The enamel surface of the stove may become chipped if it is hit with a
hard object such as a coal shovel or operating tool. Suitable cold enamel
touch up paint may be purchased.
To prepare the surface remove any loose or flaking enamel finish and
brush or vacuum the area to remove any dust and dirt. If the touch up is
supplied in a bottle shake vigorously for a minute to mix the contents. If
supplied in a tube squeeze out some of the contents onto a clean sheet of
paper and mix with a match stick as it may have become separated in the
tube. Apply a thin layer of touch up to the surface allowing it to dry before
applying further layers to build the surface up to the surrounding enamels
height. Leave to dry before firing the stove.
If your stove has an enamel finish you will notice, after the stove has been used several times, it develops
what is called a “crackle” pattern in the enamelling. This is caused by the different expansion rates between
the enamel and the cast iron, it is normal and should not be regarded as a fault or indicating that the stove is
beginning to shed its finish.
Order Numbers for Touch up Paint
Enamel colour
Part Number
Satin Black Enamel
Bottle Green Enamel
Majolica Brown Enamel
Blue enamel
27440
27437
27441
31272
Brass Fittings
Any proprietary brass cleaner may be used to clean the brass on the stove, but care must be taken to ensure
the polish does not come into contact with the stove enamel or the black cast finish, where it will leave a
stain.
Nickel and Black Haematite Fittings
Any proprietary chrome or aluminium cleaner may be used to clean the decorative fittings on the stove, but
care must be taken to ensure the polish does not come into contact with the stove enamel or the black cast
finish, where it will leave a stain.
The Flue
Even if your flue is correctly lined it is advisable to run your stove at a high setting to thoroughly warm the flue
periodically and ensure it is swept regularly. If the stove has not been used for some time it will be necessary
to ensure the flue has not been blocked with twigs from home building birds or blocked with other obstructions
before the stove is lit. Lighting a small piece of paper within the stove will determine the flue’s ability to
remove any products of combustion.
National Chimney Sweeps Association
Telephone: 01785 811732
OFTEC
Foxwood House, Dobbs Lane, Kesgrave, Ipswich, IP5 2QQ.
Tel: 0845 65 85 080 Fax: 0845 65 85 181
Email: [email protected]
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Front Door Removal
Door Removal with Brass Hinge Tube
Upper Hinge Pin Removal
Open the door to the stove. To remove the top hinge pin lift it upwards, if it is found to be tight undo the brass
nut and fit a spacer between the nut and the brass washer, if it has an enamel finish protect the door with a
peice of cloth below the washer. Tighten the nut back down and in so doing this will lift the pin upwards. NEVER
KNOCK THE HINGE PIN DOWN as this will force it into the casting and make its removal very difficult and result
in the brass tube becoming damaged. If this has occurred the brass tube must be cut and removed and the pin
tapped upwards, a new hinge pin and brass tube will be required.
LIFT TOP HINGE
PIN UPWARDS
Spacer
To remove the
brass tube pull
to one side and
lift it off the
lower hinge pin.
Undo brass nut and put a
spacer between the nut and
the washer and then tighten
the brass nut so lifting the
hinge pin.
Lower Hinge Pin Removal
If the lower pin needs to be removed, which is not necessary if you are only removing the door, undo the brass
nut and lift up the pin.
Order Numbers for Brass Hinge Assembly
Description
Domed brass nut
Brass washer
Brass hinge tube
Upper hinge pin
Lower hinge pin
Harmony 1
Harmony 2
Harmony 3
Coachman
12430
17496
28285
26291
12427
12430
17496
28285
26291
12427
12430
17496
29351
18839
13219
12430
17496
29351
18839
13219
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Door Removal without Brass Tube
To remove the door undo the handle and open the door.
Lift the door and hinge pins straight up holding the hinge side of the door and the handle.
Reverse the procedure to refit ensuring that if there were any washers fitted they are also fitted.
Open door and lift
upwards holding
hinge side of door
and the handle.
Order numbers for Harmony 5,8,10,11,21,31,41 hinge pins
Description
Harmony
5 & 11
Harmony
21
Harmony
8 & 31
Harmony
10 & 41
Upper door
Domed brass nut
Brass washer
19915
12430
17496
18906
12430
17496
18906
12430
17496
18906
12430
17496
Order Numbers for Stanford Hinge Pins
Description
Stanford 50
Stanford 80
31848
31848
Upper door
Hinge Pins.
The hinge pins on the Stanford stoves may, over time, ride up with the opening and closing of the door. It is
essential that you knock these back down so that they do not fall out. If one does fall out then there is a danger
that the door will drop down and snap off the hinge still attached with a hinge pin. This would then require a
new front panel fitting to the stove.
Using a dot punch on the side of the hinge pin in two places may help stop the hinge pins from riding up.
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Glass and Glass Seal Set Replacement
When replacing the glass on any of the stove models supplied by Euroheat the glass seal should also be
replaced. Failure to do so could cause damage to the glass or allow air into the stove in an uncontrolled manner
which may be detrimental to the performance of the stove.
The seals should be checked annually and replaced if they have become damaged or show signs of leakage.
The seals may be either a rope seal or a ceramic fibre gasket. In all cases these are interchangeable.
It may be easier to replace the glass by removal of the door and lying it down on a stable flat surface.
Glass and Seal Set Removal Single Panel Glass
Undo the four glass clip screws and carefully lift off the glass panel from the door frame. With a blunt instrument
such as a screwdriver scrape away the old ceramic glass seal from the door frame. If it has a rope seal which
needs to be renewed pull out the old rope seal and with a blunt instrument such as a screwdriver scrape away
the old rope glue and any dirt. Clean away any remaining residue with a wire brush.
Ceramic fibre gasket
The ceramic fibre gasket set
This comprises of precut shaped ceramic
fibre strips which fit the shape of the glass
and pads which fit behind the glass retaining
clips.
Ceramic rope gasket
Join rope centre top.
The ceramic rope gasket set
This comprises of a length of self adhesive
ceramic rope which fits into the groove on
the door frame, the shape of the glass, and
pads which fit behind the glass retaining
clips.
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Order Numbers for Glass and Glass Seal Sets
Stove Model
Harmony 1
Harmony 2
Harmony 3 & Coachman
Stanford 50
Stanford 80
Seal Set
Glass
MS078
MS078
30729
MS078
MS078
30730
30732
31589
MS0774 Flat glass/ 37941 Bowed glass
37942
Replacement of Ceramic Strip Gaskets and Glass
Lay the ceramic strips around the door frame in the shape of the door. Lay the glass panel onto the ceramic
strips. Push the screws through the glass clips and glass clip seals and then screw into the threaded holes in
the door frame.
It is very important that although the glass clips should hold the glass panel in place there should be some
movement when the glass is pushed down onto the ceramic seal. This will allow for expansion and contraction
of the glass and the door frame when the stove heats and cools, which could cause the glass to break.
Replacement of Ceramic Rope Gasket and Glass
Remove the adhesive strip cover paper from the ceramic rope and place this side downwards into the groove
around the window in the door, cut off any excess rope. Push the ceramic rope down into the groove to ensure
that the adhesive comes into contact with the door frame, the rope starting and finishing top centre. Lay the
glass panel onto the ceramic rope seal. Push the screws through the glass clips and glass clip seals and then
screw into the threaded holes in the door frame.
It is very important that although the glass clips should hold the glass panel in place there should be some
movement when the glass is pushed down onto the ceramic rope seal. This will allow for expansion and
contraction of the glass and the door frame when the stove heats and cools, which could cause the glass to
break.
NEVER CLAMP THE GLASS CLIPS DOWN TIGHT ONTO THE GLASS OR FIT THE GLASS CLIPS WITHOUT
THE CERAMIC PADS UNDERNEATH AS THIS MAY LEAD TO THE GLASS BREAKING.
Rope Seal Replacement Kits
The ceramic rope seals on the three doors need inspecting regularly and replacing when they become damaged
or when the adjustment of the door handles will not maintain an air tight seal. To check if the seals are tight is
to get a piece of standard A4 copier paper, cut it in half and then fold it in half. Shut it into the door in various
places with the door handle closed. If the seal holds the paper tight and it is difficult to withdraw it then the
seal is good. If when it is pulled it slides out easily then the door handles will need adjustment or the rope
seal will require replacement.
Failure to maintain a good seal will allow uncontrolled air enter the stove. This can cause over firing, excess heat,
which can damage the internal components of the stove. Symptoms of this are a stove burning uncontrollably
even when the air inlets are shut down.
Order Numbers for Door Rope Seal Kits
Stove Model
Harmony 5
Harmony 1
Harmony 2
Harmony 3 & Coachman
Stanford 50
Stanford 80
Seal Set
RO141
RO135
RO136
RO138
RO141
RO138
Stove Model
Harmony 8
Harmony 10
Harmony 11
Harmony 21
Harmony 31
Harmony 41
10
Seal Set
RO138
RO138
RO141
RO138
RO138
RO138
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Removal of Old Seal
Pull the old rope seal from the rope groove, it may require a flat bladed screw driver to lift it from the groove.
Clean the groove of all accumulated dirt and old rope glue, a flat bladed screw driver and wire brush are
recommended to clean the groove.
Rope seal groove
Rope joint top
centre of door
Ceramic rope seal
Fitting New Seal
The ceramic rope in the seal set kits it cut to an approximate length, as the kits fit various stoves. Run the rope
around the rope groove and cut it to the required length. Remove it from the groove and apply a bead of rope
glue into the rope groove. Push the rope back into the groove ensuring that the joint is at the top and fitting
tightly together. Close the door and adjust the handle latch accordingly.
Door Handle Adjustment
It is very important for correct operation that all the doors (glass
door, side door and ash pan door) when closed are air tight. Your
stove is provided with an adjustable door latch.
The flat latch blades can be bent using an adjustable spanner.
Bent towards the handle to tighten and away from the handle to
loosen.
To loosen
To loosen
To tighten
To tighten
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Locking nut
Handle latch with adjusting bolt
To adjust the furnace door handle latch, loosen the locking nut
and adjust the bolt as required. Retighten the locking nut. The
adjustment should be made so that when the handle is in its
closed position the door is air tight.
Door Handle Replacement
The door handles are supplied in a complete kit form, with handle washers, spacers and
latching blade. The most common reason for a handle to be replace is when the stove
has stood idle over the summer and not been lubricated with WD40 or a similar product prior
to the summer shut down period. The latch becomes very stiff to move and the excess force
needed to move the latch breaks the roll pin which holds the handle shaft in place.
If this has broken the whole handle assembly will need replacing.
Order Numbers for Handles
Model
Furnace Door
Harmony 5 &11
32828
Harmony 1
19917
Harmony 2
19924
Harmony 3
28999
Coachman
28999
Lower Door
No handle
28130
19925
No handle
No handle
Model
Harmony 21
Harmony 31
Harmony 41
Stanford 50
Stanford 80
Furnace Door
44227
43812
43812
39649
39654
If the handle shaft has seized into the door frame, and the door is closed, then the shaft will have to be sprayed
with WD40 or a similar penetrating oil. Leave this to soak for some time. Then with a pair of mole grips or
similar type of spanner turn the shaft to open the door. Once the door is open, spray the inside of the shaft and
the outside again with WD40 and leave to soak. The shaft can then be gently knocked through the frame of
the door, taking care as the door frame is cast iron and can crack.
Examples of Handle Kits
Harmony 1 Firebox Door Handle
Brass handle
assembly
Spacer
Harmony 1 & 2 Lower Door Handle
Locking washer
Sprung washer
Securing nut
Washer
Securing nut
Latch blade
Sprung washer
Latch blade
Brass handle
assembly
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De-coke Procedure for Oil Stoves
To ensure the burner is operating efficiently and capable of its maximum output the fuel inlet to the burner
will need to be kept free of carbon deposits by operating the decoking lever at least monthly. Use the glove
supplied with the stove and take great care if this procedure is to be undertaken with the stove running.
Accessing the De-coking Assembly
On most Harmony and Stanford stoves the decoking assembly can be accessed by opening the lower door, the
example above shows the Harmony 5 and Stanford 50 where it can be accessed from the side. The Harmony 3
and Harmony Coachman stoves; the access is through the side door of the stove.
Mark 1: De-coking Assembly
This is accomplished by slackening the knurled brass nut a half-a-turn and withdrawing the rod no more than
35mm (1½inches). Then while rotating the rod, insert it fully, repeat until there is no grinding felt when it is
rotated, then retighten the brass knurled nut.
De-coking Assembly
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On stoves over 4 to 5 years old carbon deposits may have built up higher up the de-coking tube than the
de-coking blade can reach, thus restricting the oil flow to the burner. This requires the de-coking assembly
and oil inlet pipe being removed from the de-coking tube. Unscrew the oil feed pipe from the de-coking tube
with a 10mm spanner and pull the pipe out of the de-coking tube. To remove the 22mm brass nut hold the
de-coking tube with an adjustable spanner, so it does not turn and unscrew the de-coking tube from the body
of the burner pot. Unscrew the whole assembly and remove from the end of the de-coking tube. Clear out
any carbon which has built up within the de-coking tube. Replace both the oil feed pipe and the de-coking
assembly.
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13
Mark 2: De-coking using the Allen Key Tool
This operation must only be carried out with the stove TURNED OFF and COLD. The de-coking and inlet pipe are
located behind the lower door and to the right hand or left hand side of the burner pot. Remove the end cap
with the tool supplied with the stove, making sure not to loose the sealing gasket from within the cap. The tool
is then inserted into the inlet pipe rotating it as it is pushed in towards the burner, until the cardon deposits
have been scraped clear of the inlet.
Unscrew the de-coke port end cap with the
tool supplied with the stove.
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Insert the tool into the inlet pipe and rotate the
tool whilst pushing in towards the burner, until
the carbon has been scraped clear.
Replacement gasket seal Part No: MS1029
14
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De-coking using the De-coking Tool
This operation must only be carried out with the stove TURNED OFF and COLD. The decoking and inlet pipe are
located behind the lower door and to the right hand or left hand side of the burner pot. Unscrew the end cap
of the inlet pipe, making sure not to loose the sealing gasket from within the cap. The tool is then inserted into
the inlet pipe and is pushed in towards the burner, until the cardon deposits have been scraped clear of the
inner surfaces of the inlet pipe.
Remove the cap from the inlet pipe.
Push the tool into the pipe.
Scrape the cardon deposits from the inner surfaces.
Replace the tool onto the outside of the de-coke tube and replace the end cap.
Replacement gasket seal Part No: MS1029
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Catalyser Identification.
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C
105mm
135mm
135mm
Part No.
337
339
339
Catalyser Support Ring Mk1
Burner Size
A
Part No.
6”
142mm
3113
8”
171mm
3112
10”
206mm
3111
7
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Catalyser Mk1
Burner Size
B
6”
130mm
8”
170mm
10”
170mm
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Catalyser Mk11
Burner Size
B
6”
125mm
8”
150mm
10”
155mm
8
C
130mm
146mm
181mm
Part No.
32824
26428
26429
Catalyser Support Ring Mk11
Burner Size
A
Part No.
32822
6”
172mm
2 required per stove
23908
8”
195mm
23920
10”
225mm
7
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Position within the Burner.
The catalyser support ring or two half rings sit on pegs halfway down inside the burner. The catalyser then sits
centrally on the support ring.
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Burner Identification.
Mk1 Burner
The Mk1 burner comprises of a twin skin with
smaller holes on the outer surface and larger
holes on the inner surface. There is also no
entry port (swan neck) for an igniter to be
fitted.
Oil Burner Mk1
Burner Size Part No.
6”
199
8”
201
10”
192
Mk2 Burner with fitted Swan Neck
The Mk2 burner is only a single skin and
the entry port (swan neck) for an igniter is
attached to the side of the burner by four
small nuts and bolts.
Oil Burner Mk1
6”
33522
8”
33523
10”
33524
Mk2 Burner with Braised Swan Neck
The Mk2 burner is only a single skin and the
entry port (swan neck) for an igniter is braised
to the side of the burner.
Oil Burner Mk1
6”
39672
8”
38685
10”
46261
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Oil Valve Identification - CI Oil Control Valve
For more detailed fitting instructions down load Technical Bulletin TB137 from our web site.It will also be
supplied with the oil valve you order.
Low fire adjustment
screw
_
High fire adjustment
screw
Control knob
+
+
_
Actuator Pin
Used to control
the flow rate by
remotely operated
devices such as a
Flexitemp.
Data plate
Arming lever
Filter access
plate
Oil level fill line
Flexitemp
Flow Rate
Part No.
4 to 12cc
5.5 to 17.5cc
7.5 to 24cc
Flexitemp
26452
18995
18745
MS9036
18
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Oil Valve Identification - BM Oil Control Valve
For more detailed fitting instructions download Technical Bulletin TB138 from our web site.It will also be
Control knob
Position of the adjustment screw
when the control knob is turned to
maximum or minimum
Actuator Pin
used to control
the flow rate by
remotely operated
devices such as a
Flexitemp.
Data plate
Oil level
indicator mark
Arming lever
Flexitemp
Filter access plate
Flow Rate
Part No.
4 to 12cc
5.5 to 17.5cc
7.5 to 24cc
Flexitemp
26449
29927
29928
MS9036
Low Flow Rate Adjustment
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High Flow Rate Adjustment
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19
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Oil Valve Identification - Toby Oil Control Valve
Low fire flow
adjustment screw
+
_
+
_
High fire flow
adjustment screw
Top plate fixing screw
Metering Stem remote lever.
Used for clearing contaminates
obstructing the metering
slot; turn oil control to six
then tap lever sharply
5-10 times.
Actuator Pin
Used to control the flow
rate by remotely operated
devices such as the Flexitemp.
Top plate fixing screw
Arming Lever (lift up to arm)
Once armed cannot
be de-armed
Reservoir level height
Reservoir drain screw
Oil filter access plate.
Flow Rate
Part No.
3 to 11cc
5.5 to 15cc
5.5 to 17.5cc
6.8 to 20.5cc
7.5 to 24cc
Flexitemp
32807
46204
18995
46205
32327
MS10040
Flexitemp
20
E & OE
Oil Valve Identification - CI Twin Top Oil Control Valve
Fitted to the Harmony 3 and Coachman Thermical twin burner stoves.
Low fire adjustment screws
High fire adjustment screws
(hidden by control knob)
Control knob
_
+
+
_
Data plate
Arming lever
Filter access plate
Oil level indicator mark
Flow Rate
Part No.
5.5 to 17.5cc
Flexitemp
Aquastat
18805
MS9036
29761
Actuator Pin (located between
the control knobs)
Used to control the flow rate by
remotely operated devices such
as a Flexitemp or Aquastat.
Aquastat
Flexitemp
21
E & OE
Oil Filter Replacement
Filter bleed screws
CROSSLAND 489
CROSSLAND 489
When replacing the oil filter, which should be done annually, the new “O” rings supplied with the replacement
filter must be used.
Failure to do so can cause oil leaks and may allow air into the oil line which can affect the function of the oil
control valve.
The filter must then be bled of air by first loosening the inlet bleed screw and then the outlet bleed screw.
Description
Part No.
Oil filter kit
Replacement cartridge
Pressure reducing valve
MS9195
MS9166
MS10041
For more detailed fitting instructions download
Technical Bulletin TB177 from our web site.It will
also be supplied with the oil filter kit you order.
Oil Pressure Reducing Valve
Oil Pressure Reducing Valve.
Used on installations where the oil tank outlet
is situated more than 3m above the top of the
stove’s oil control valve inlet.
Inlet pressure 0.5bar to 6bar, Outlet 100mb.
22
E & OE
Typical Oil Tank Installations
Gravity fed to the stove
Remote acting Fire
Valve Sensor located
behind appliance close
to oil metering valve
Level
Indicator
Maximum 3meters
Filter
Minimum 300mm
Manual
Stop Cock
Isolation tap
by applaince
Using an oil lifter pump where tank level is below the height of the stoves oil inlet
Capacity of
lifter pump
3 Litre
12 Litre
Part No.
MS042
MS9025
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ad]ldZ^X0YXcVX
V$0^[`hY[hk¼h`»edX»o
XVhaY_[_0^[lZe^_\[Zl
\\d`[¼dPlZ`[P@:;<
]h]\_aV]mWVj]adVX
VdhjnXaV^jh\X
BVm^bjba^[i]Z^\]i,#.bZiZgh
L]ZgZi]ZhidkZ^hedhî^dcZYid\^kZV
]ZVYiddâ\gZViZgi]Vc(bZiZghV
XdchiVciaZkZakVakZ!eVgicjbWZg
BH&%%)&!XVcWZ[îiZY#
23
E & OE
Igniter Identification.
Short Igniter
The short igniter is fitted to stoves in which the igniter mounting tube (swan neck) is braised to the burner. The
length of the igniter body is 52mm.
Swan neck braised
to the burner pot
Part No. 38500C
52mm
Long Igniter
The long igniter is fitted to stoves in which the igniter mounting tube (swan neck) is fixed in position by four
nuts and bolts.
The length of the igniter body is 92mm.
Part No. 26796C
Swan neck
secured to the
burner pot
with 4 nuts
and bolts.
92mm
For more detailed fitting instructions down load Technical Bulletin TB072 for the long igniter and TB188
for the short igniter from our web site.It will also be supplied with the igniter kit you order.
24
E & OE
Short Igniter Kit Components 38500C
Igniter
Bullet
connectors
To Remove the Old Igniter:
Igniter seal
Retaining
screw
Remove the power cord from the power supply to the transformer and remove the two wires from the
transformer, which is fitted to the rear heat shield of the stove.
If there is limited access to the transformer the wires may be cut at a convenient point near to the igniter and
the bullet connectors, supplied with the kit, used when fitting the new igniter.
Open the lower door of the stove to access the burner.
Unscrew the retaining screw on the side of the swan neck and withdraw the igniter.
To Fit the New Igniter:
Remove the retaining screw
and withdraw the igniter
from the swan kneck.
Using emery board, clean any lacquer from the ends of the wires of the new igniter, to ensure a good contact
at the transformer or bullet connectors.
Slide the ceramic igniter seal down the wires to the body of the igniter and if there is a fibre gasket on the body
of the igniter this must be removed.
Fit the two wires to the transformer, if you have cut the wires, because access to the transformer is difficult, the
bullet connectors need crimping onto the wires using a crimping tool and the two ends joining.
Insert the igniter into the swan neck, line up the holes and refit the retaining screw.
For clean and rapid ignition to be achieved the tip of the igniter’s stainless steel
gauze must rest on the pot bottom to allow oil to be attracted towards the
ignition coil by capillary action with the minimum amount of oil having entered
the burner.
Push the igniter seal into the top of the sawn neck to form a seal. Failure to do
this will allow air to leak past the igniter and cause poor combustion to occur.
Once fitted light the stove and check the flame pattern to ensure that the seal
is not letting air past which would cause a yellow flame to appear in the area of
the igniter port.
E & OE
25
I]Z^\cîZg\VjoZlî]dcZ
h^YZdgi]Ziêdcan
idjX]^c\i]ZWjgcZgWVhZ#
Igniter seal which should be
slid over the igniters wires
and pushed into the top of the
swan neck to form a seal.
Long Igniter Kit Components 26796C
Tools required
Small screw driver, 7mm socket (1/4 inch drive) and 7mm spanner. (Electricians pliers if required to cut
cables).
Igniter
Gasket
4 x Nut & Bolts
Bullet Connectors
To Remove the Old Igniter:
Turn off the electrical supply to the stove and remove the power cord before any work is undertaken on the
electric ignition.
Remove the coal kit from the stove carefully, it is fragile.
Remove the catalyser and 2 support rings.
Undo the 4 nuts and bolts that hold the swan neck to the burner and remove, withdrawing the igniter from the
burner at the same time. Undo the screw retaining the igniter in the swan neck and withdraw.
Undo the 2 leads at the transformer and withdraw the whole igniter. If this is not possible due to the stoves
installation the cables may be cut and bullet connectors (supplied) used to join to the new igniter cables.
To Fit the New Igniter:
Feed the new igniter cables through the stove back up to the transformer and reconnect to either terminal,
the cables are not polarised. Or join to original cables using bullet connectors.
Insert the igniter into the swan neck and secure with the retaining screw.
Using the new gasket insert the igniter attached to the swan neck back into the
burner and refit using the 4
new nuts and bolts supplied.
Check that the metal gauze is touching the bottom of the burner.
Reconnect power cord and test (it will be seen to glow red after a few
seconds).
I]Z^\cîZg\VjoZlî]dcZ
h^YZdgi]Ziêdcan
Replace catalyser support rings, catalyser and coal kit.
idjX]^c\i]ZWjgcZgWVhZ#
Light the stove.
E & OE
26
Transformer Identification
Since the introduction of electric ignition to the Efel Harmony and Nestor Martin Range of vaporising oil burning
stoves there have been three types of transformers used. They are now no longer available and have been
replaced by two transformer kits, dependant on the original transformer or the stove model. These kits have a
new transformer and the relevant brackets, leads and connecters to enable them to be fitted.
CE
RATING: 104VA INT.
PART No: 33378
INPUT:
230V 50/60Hz
OUTPUT: 2.6V @45A INT
RATING: 117VA INT
OUTPUT: 2.9V @ 36A INT.
EUROHEAT 26955
INPUT: 230V 50/60Hz
Transformer: Mark 1
Part No:
MS0115
Replacement Kit: MS1120
Transformer: Mark 2
Part No:
30721
Transformer: Mark 3
Part No:
38759
Replacement Kit
Transformer
Kettle Lead Power Cord
Transformer
mounting bracket
Bullet Connecters
& Screws
WARNING: The stove must be disconnected from any power supply before any work is undertaken on
the appliance. Any work should only be undertaken by a suitably qualified engineer.
For more detailed fitting instructions down load Technical Bulletin TB179 from our web site. It will also be
supplied with the transformer kit you order.
27
E & OE
Servicing of the Stove
1) Check you have oil in the tank and that any in line filters are clean, replace cartridge type annually. If one is
not fitted it would be advisable to recommend to the customer that one should be fitted. See Pages 22
2) Remove the coal kit from the stove carefully and put it somewhere safe. Replace if neseccary.
3) Remove the catalyser and support ring, or half rings. Inspect and replace if necessary. See pages 16
4) Clean the glass if sooted up and check that there is no oil in the pot. If there is clean it out with absorbent
paper towel.
5) Remove any hard carbon from within the burner using a blunt scraper or screwdriver and the burner inlet
port using the decoking tool. See pages 13 and 14.
6) Replace and check that the catalyser and support rings are
correctly positioned in the burner pot. The 2 half rings supported
by the pins inside the pot and the catalyser sitting centrally to
the rings.
7) Attach the draught gauge to the draught test point, found on
most stoves hidden behind the front left leg when the lower
door is opened.
5) Turn the oil control to the lighting setting, or number 2
position, check that oil is entering the burner pot, and press
the igniter button until oil ignites.
6) Leave the stove and flue to warm up. Anything from 20 mins
to 2 hours dependant upon the type of flue and when the stove
was last used.
7) Turn the stove down to its minimum, this is the point where you feel resistance just before the oil valve
goes “click” off.
Low fire maximum setting
8) Open the door and clean the glass again if dirty.
9) Take a flue draught reading. Compare this with the graphs on pages 32 and 33,
dependant upon the burner size of the stove.
a) If the reading is too high then the draught stabilizer will need to be altered to
reduce the air flow through the burner. By winding the counter balanced nut out,
anti clockwise, until it the draught drops to the required reading for the size of
burner.
b) If the flue draught is too low close the stabiliser by winding the counter balanced Low fire minimum setting
nut in, clockwise, until the air flow rises to the required reading for the size of
burner.
10) Look at the flame pattern through the glass, it should be blue flames flickering
around the burner somewhere between the catalyser support ring and the ring of
holes at the top of the pot.
28
E & OE
Low Fire Candling by Inlet Port
11) If you have yellow flames candling from the bottom of the
pot then the flow rate will need increasing, by turning the low fire
screw 1/4 of a turn at a time until it reaches the correct height
within the burner pot, see installation instructions for correct
position. Once this is achieved check that the flue draught is still
correct, if not alter stabilizer to return it to the correct setting.
12) Turn the stove up gradually over a period of 5 minutes to
number the maximum, or number 6, setting. Then wait for the
flue to heat up for 15 minutes.
13) Check the flue draught against the graph in the graphs on pages
32 and 33, if a progressive draught stabilizer is fitted this cannot be
altered. If it is below the ideal, adjust the oil flow to give the flame
pattern, see 14 a) and b)
14) Check the flame pattern. It should be to the height of the top of the
curve on the door. With only the very odd flame just touching the top
of the stove.
a) If it is touching the top of the stove this is too high and should be
reduced by lowering the oil flow on high fire. This is done by turning
the high fire screw 1/4 of a turn at a time until it reaches the desired
height.
b) If it is too low then adjust the high fire screw 1/4 of a turn at a time
until the desired flame height is reached.
15) Return the fire to its low setting and leave to settle for
about 5 mins.
16) Check the flue draught and flame pattern to ensure
any alterations have not effected this setting.
17) Replace the coal effect kit, if it comprises of loose coals,
check the layout to ensure there are no long lazy flames,
flames touching the sides of the stove or impinging on the
glass. Reposition the coals if necessary.
29
E & OE
Correct Procedure for the use of a Dwyer Flue Draught Gauge
The Dwyer flue draught gauge is a very simple yet accurate method of measuring the flue draught passing
through a stove, however, there are certain rules for the correct use of the draught gauge.
1. The gauge should be clean and dry inside or the ball will not float in the tube accurately. It is not a water
gauge and should not be filled with water.
2. The ball should be undamaged as damage will cause the ball not to float accurately. Never touch the
replacement ball with your fingers, pour it directly in from its protective tube.
3. The silicon tube should be undamaged and of the correct length, 360 mm, as this will affect the accuracy. It
should be fitted to the nipple directly above the ball.
4. The flue should be allowed to reach its normal operating temperature, this may take, in some instances, a
few hours especially if the stove has not been used for a time.
.09
.08
.07
RE - LOW RANGE
FT OR PRESSU
IN. OF WATER DRA
.05
.04
.03
.02
.01
Steel
Tube
Silicon Tube
IN. OF WATER DRA
FT OR PRESSU
RE - HIGH RAN
GE
.06
1.0
.9
.8
.7
.6
.5
.4
.3
.2
.1
.05
Draught
guage
5. The draught guage should be held upright when the readings are taken. Taking the reading on the black side
using the left hand side scale, 0.01 in to 0.09 in water guage.
An oil stove will have a test point tube or hole dependant upon the model and age of the stove, the position of
which will be found in the installation instructions for the stove. If no test point can be found then a 7mm hole
should be drilled into the combustion chamber of the stove. If there is a test point tube the silicon tube should
be attached to this and with the guage held vertically the readings taken at both high and low fire settings.
If a hole has been drilled into the combustion chamber then the steel pipe should be attached to the other
end of the silicon tube and this inserted into the hole. The readings then taken with the gauge held vertically.
These should be then compared to the requirements set out in the installation instructions and the required
adjustements made.
Caution:
When using a flue draught gauge extreme care should be exercised to prevent contact
with hot surfaces and flue gasses.
30
E & OE
Progressive Draught Stabilizer
Fitted to Harmony and Stanford oil stoves with the Toby oil control valve from March 2000. Prior to that
the stabilizer could only be set at one setting and only consisted of the stabilizer flap and counter balanced
weight.
For more detailed fitting instructions download Technical Bulletin TB90 from our web site.
Magnet guide
Adjustment weight
Wind weight in,clockwise,
to increase the flue draught
and out, anti clockwise, to
reduce the flue draught.
Magnet
Cable adjustment
Stabilizer flap
Return spring
Cable operating bar
Cable
Actuating cam
Toby oil control valve
31
E & OE
Ideal Flue Draught Readings for 6 inch Burner Models
6
.09
.08
.07
0.065
6
1.0
.9
.8
.7
.6
.06
.05
.5
1
.04
.4
0.035
.03
.3
1
.2
.02
Measurements
in Inches W.G.
.1
.05
.01
Smokey Flame
6
5
0.07
0.065
0.06
4
3
2
0.045
0.035
1
6
1
32
Inches water gauge
E & OE
Ideal Flue Draught Readings for 8 and 10 inch Burner Models
6
.09
.08
.07
0.085
6
1
.06
1.0
.9
.8
.7
.05
.6
.5
.04
.4
0.035
1
.03
.3
.2
.02
Measurements
in Inches W.G.
.1
.05
.01
Smokey flame
6
5
0.095
0.085
0.08
4
3
2
0.045
0.035
1
0.03
Good
6
Inches water gauge
1
33
E & OE
OIL SUPPLY
Have
you done the
obvious?
WHAT ARE THEY?
The stove's oil
control must be
turned to position
"2"
YES
Is there sufficient
oil in the tank?
YES
Is the tank supply
tap open?
HOW LONG?
YES
AND
Up for Toby
It may take several
minutes for the
initial oil flow to be
established.
Be patient
Tapping the valve
actuating pin whilst
control knob is at
maximum may clear
blockage to the
metering stem
Turning the control AND
valve to maximum
will shorten the
waiting time
TRY
Reset
the control valve to
position "2"
NOT SURE
Ensure the tank
level indicator is
reading correctly.
Operate test button
OK
NOT SURE
Look for arrows to
indicate the
rotation direction
for open position
OK
Is
filter clean and
fitted correctly?
NOT SURE
NO
OK
Ensure that
pipework routed
through walls is
with the correct
radius
Is any pipework
underground?
OK
Uncouple oil
supply connection
to the stove's oil
valve.
Look for arrows
giving flow
direction
NOT SURE
OK
YES
is the supply pipe
undamaged?
AND
All fire protection
valves and
isolation valves
turned to open
OK
YES
Have
you allowed
sufficient time?
The fuel valve's
arming lever set
Dig out to locate
the blockage if
confirmed to be in
this length of pipe
YES
OK
Is oil being
supplied to the
stove
NO
If below freezing
confirm that no
water in the tank
or pipework has
frozen
NO
Flush out all
pipework and
valves until clear
YES
Is it
free of water and
contamination
YES
OK
Is stove
level with correct
valve height
YES
Remove control
valve to inspect for
damage or
contamination
OK
Replace valve if
necessary
NOT SURE
Consult the
manual for valve
height to burner
details
34
E & OE
BURNER FAILS TO IGNITE
Is the oil valve at
position "2"?
OK
YES
Does the
ignitor indicator
illuminate?
Turn oil control
valve Knob to
position "2"
NO
Is there a
mains supply to the
stove?
NO
Reconnect the
power supply to
the stove
NO
YES
OK
Are the
electrical plugs
correctly fitted?
NO
Isolate the
electrical supply
and insert
correctly
YES
YES
Isolate power
supply and carry
out continuity
tests
OK
OK
Does the ignitor
glow red?
NO
YES
Is oil visible in
the burner?
Check continuity
of ignitor and
transformer
output (2.9Volts)
FAULTY
OK
NO
Replace ignitor if
open circuit or
transformer if
defective
OK
Is the metering
valve arming lever
armed?
NO
Lift lever to arm
TOBY valves
NO
Carefully adjust
gauze to rest on
burner floor
YES
Please turn to
"OIL SUPPLY"
fault chart.
YES
OK
Oil
deeper than
wetting the burner
floor?
NO
Is ignitor gauze
touching burner
floor?
OK
YES
YES
Has oil reached the
ignitor gauze?
NO
Consult manual
to level the burner
if the burner is not
level
OK
YES
Turn off all
controls, isolate
from mains and
remove excess oil
Check the oil
grade and for
contamination
If the burner fails
to light please re
follow this chart.
OK
35
E & OE
BURNER NOT OPERATING
SATISFACTORILY
Can
the flue draught be
checked?
NO
It is impossible to
diagnose faulty
combustion
without knowing
the flue draught
Euroheat sell and
loan suitable
draught gauges
contact technical
support dept.
YES
Flue taking too
long to warm. It
may need
insulating
OR
Other flues in the
property may be
competing for the
available air supply
Lazy
yellow flame from
entire burner
NO
Flame
burning only on
the ignitor
gauze
YES
Burner slow to
burn cleanly after
ignition?
YES
Does
the stove smoke at
low fire?
YES
NO
YES
YES
Flue draught very
low
door not closing
properly
Flue draught
excessively high
Valve out of
calibration
OR
Flame noisy at low
fire?
YES
Flue draught too
high, Monitor to
establish if caused
by wind or very
efficient flue
Valve height low
Stove not level
Valve filter blocked
with water or dirt
NO
Maximum
flame size reducing
after weeks
YES
Clean any carbon
from the burner
inlet by operating
the de-coking lever
YES
Flue draught low
Valve out of
calibration
door or glass seal
defective
YES
Flue draught too
high
YES
Flue draught too
high
YES
Flue draught too
high
NO
Does
the stove smoke at
high fire?
NO
Noisy
and short flame at
high fire?
Please consult the
flue chart for
further information
NO
Catalyser burning
away?
NO
Hard
carbon deposits in
the burner?
36
E & OE
FLUE DRAUGHT
Is flue
draught
measurable with
stove cold
YES
Are other
flue terminations
higher or in
use
NO
NO
Is the room
warmer than the
outside
YES
YES
Other appliances or higher terminations in
the property may be dangerously
evacuating all available air or even pulling
air in through the stove
Leaving the stove
door open for thirty
minutes may
warm the flue
sufficiently
NO
Direct heat from
fan heater or hair
drier into stove. Fit
flue band heater
OR
AND
NO
YES
Is draught coming
down the flue
YES
Are other
flue terminations
higher or in
use
YES
Flue draught too
low
NO
Is the
property being
subjected to high
winds
YES
NO
Flue draught too
high
YES
Close house
windows and doors
down wind,
ventilate room to
upwind side
NO
The draught is
upwards
YES
Burner
takes too long to
vaporize
YES
NO
The flue liner will
need to be
insulated to allow
faster warming.
Draught high
causing the burner
to be noisy
Is this
caused by high
winds
YES
FOR NOW
As a temporary
solution the stove
door my be held
slightly open for
one minute.
YES
Is this
chimney subjected
to frequent high
winds
NO
Draught
low giving a lazy
smoky flame
YES
Is the flue lined and
insulated
NO
NO
Draught
uncontrollable
A too large
aperture flue or
one not insulated
will reduce the
draught
yes
Fit a stabilizing cowl
and/or
the progressive
draught stabilizer
NO
Adjust draught
stabilizer or fit
choke plate if
stabilizer out of
range
NO
YES
Adjust the draught
stabilizer on the
stove to achieve
lower draught
or fit progressive
stabilizer
Fit a large aperture
choke plate and/or
Progressive draught
stabilizer
YES
Has
flue had time to
reach operating
temp
YES
Is any
draught stabilizer
open
YES
NOT SURE
Always allow thirty
minutes for any
firing change to
stabilized
Balance draught
Stabaliser again
This will be caused by terminal position with
relationship to obstructions or hills. Please consult
the installation manual for further information.
37
E & OE
THE DRAUGHT GAUGE
Do you
know what flue
draught is?
NO
Flue draught is the
stream of air or
gasses traveling
up the flue
NO
It removes the
products of
combustion and
induces the supply
of air to the fire
MORE
This flow is caused primarily because air from
the room, or the gasses from a fire, are hotter
and therefore less dense than the surrounding
air, and so are pushed upwards by the
atmospheric pressure pushing down the
heavier, colder air. Wind blowing across the top
of the flue will also induce flow within the flue,
but because wind is never constant nor
predictable it should always be regarded as an
interference rather than an aid to flue draught.
MORE
The process of combustion not only removes
the oxygen from the air, it also forms several
unpleasant chemicals, which need to be taken
away from the house reliably. The evacuation
of the flue allows the more dense fresh air to
enter the property, supplying both the fire and
the house inhabitants with oxygen.
MORE
Sufficient oxygen has to be provided for the
carbon and hydrogen elements within the fuel
to convert to carbon dioxide and water (H O).
2
With insufficient oxygen the carbon will form as
soot and carbon monoxide. Simply supplying an
excessive amount of air to ensure sufficient
oxygen is available is wasteful. This excess air
only serves to cool the stove and the room it
passes through, and taken to extremes cools
the combustion process itself.
MORE
The gauge is essentially a vertical tube
containing a polystyrene ball which floats on the
air stream passing through it. The faster the air
flow the higher the ball floats.
The tube is folded to allow air to enter at the
side port. The air travels down to the bottom of
the scaled column which contains the ball, and
exits at the top of the column through the centre
port, which is connected to whatever device is
drawing air.
MORE
If the size of the aperture through which air is
able to enter the stove is known, and the
pressure difference between the two sides of
this aperture can be measured, then the rate at
which air flows into the stove can be calculated.
These calculations have been made and the
pressure differences required to supply the
correct amount of air for burning varying
quantities of fuel in your stove are tabulated in
the installation manual.
MORE
The term "Water column" refers to the pressure
that a height of water will exert, so it will be
appreciated that a measurement of 0.05 inches
is a very low pressure and will explain why
using an actual water column to measure flue
draught would require a microscope to detect
pressure changes. The gauge is capable of
measuring air flow and has several different
scales but for these tests only the inches water
column scale is of significance.
MORE
By taking gauge readings when the stove is
operating at high and low fire it will enable you
to set the stove's draft stabilizer to give the flue
performance best corresponding to the
requirements. Please remember to allow the
flue temperature to stabilize after changing
either the stove's burning rate or stabilizer
setting. You may also find it interesting to note
the effects of wind and the way opening doors
and windows in wind will affect the readings.
YES
Do you
know why draught
is important
YES
Do you
know why gauges
are used
NO
For satisfactory
combustion it is
important that the
air being supplied
can be quantified
YES
Have
you used this type
of gauge before
NO
Do not worry; it
has no switches or
adjustments. If you
can hold it upright,
you can use it.
YES
Do you
know what you are
measuring
NO
It is the difference
between the air
pressure inside
and outside the
stove
YES
Do you
know the units of
measurements
NO
The units are
inches water
column
YES
Now What?
TESTING
Put rubber tube on
gauge centre port.
The other tube end
on stove test tube.
Hold upright. Read
38
E & OE
Spare Parts on the web.
Below is an example of one the pages of spare parts diagrams you will find on our web site. These detailed
drawings allow you to identify all the component parts of the stove. If you follow the instructions on the web
site it will give you the part number and the price of each item. These can then be ordered through your
nearest retail outlet or online.
Euroheat Spare Parts System
Harmony 8” & 10” Oil 194 96, 186 68, 186 69
8
9
1
3
4
15
23
2
24
81
29
12
17
6
16
55
45
32
28
40
26
41
42
112
30
45
53
50
44
54
113
71
70
29
58 111
61
62
5
11
114
63 64
29
65
10
7
67
68
72
98
43
96
115
97
46
103
49
Euroheat Distributors (HBS) Ltd., Unit 2, Court Farm Business Park, Bishops Frome, Worcestershire, WR6 5AY United Kingdom
Telephone Technical Support 01885 491117 Facsimile 01885 491101 Reception 01885 490100 Email [email protected]
Latest Technical Information www.euroheat.co.uk
www.euroheat.co.uk
39
E & OE
Euroheat and Nestor Martin have a policy of continual research and development and reserve the right to
modify its appliances without prior notice.
We make every effort to ensure that the information provided in this document is correct and accurate at
the time of printing. Continued updates occur to adapt documents to customer requirements and appliance
changes. For the latest editions of all Euroheat documentation visit our web site
www.euroheat.co.uk.
We would request that you inform Euroheat of information which you feel is not provided in this document
which would assist other users in the future.
The Euroheat Technical Team
40
E & OE

Servicing Oil Stoves

Transcription

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