BrilliantBijou - eatdrink Magazine

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Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario
№ 31 • September/October 2011
www.eatdrink.ca
eatdrink
Brilliant Bijou
Stratford’s Hidden Treasure
Delivers Simple Elegance
FEATURING
The Elm Hurst Inn & Spa
The Fresh Flavour of Ingersoll Heritage
Schoolhouse Restaurant
Enjoying the Classics, in Grand Bend
Verandah Café
Still Tripping the Light Fantastic, in London
Hayter’s Turkey Farm
A Bird for All Seasons, in Dashwood
ALSO: The Silver Birch Tea Room | The Bag Lady | Lo Maximo Meats | Norfolk County Wines
Culinary Festival
September 24 & 25
Come and see what’s new for 2011:
• Meet Iron Chef America Winner, Chef Chuck
Hughes of the Food Network’s Chuck’s Day Off!.
• Top Chef Canada finalist, Chef Connie DeSousa
hosts “Breakfast with Connie” on Sunday
• Ribs in the Square – a southern BBQ in Market
Square on Saturday afternoon with Boss Hog’s,
named best Canadian Rib Team in 2010
• The Saturday night BBQ, Blues and Brews rocks
with Monkey Junk – winner of Best Blues Artist at
the Canadian Independent Music Awards – with
beer tastings and ethnic-style street food from
local chefs
Join us for two days of roaming outdoor farmers’
and artisan markets, free music in the park and
illuminating tastings, talks and fun cooking for the
kids in Stratford’s heritage garden and Market
Square districts.
For details, tickets and
more culinary adventures visit
savourstratford.com
“The Grand Old Lady’s heart
may have been ripped out,
but in our hands it is
beating stronger than ever!”
BEFORE the tornado
For OFFICIAL up to date information
regarding the Goderich Tornado,
please go to www.goderich.ca.
If you want to assist, the Town is now
able to accept financial donations.
Cheques should be made out to:
Goderich Disaster Relief Fund
57 West Street,
Goderich, ON N7A 2K5
We’re still here and
we are rebuilding!
Thanks for your support!
eatdrink
™
inc.
Restaurants | Chefs | Farmers & Artisans | Culinary Buzz | Recipes | Wine | Travel
A Food & Drink Magazine Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario
Think Global.
Read Local.
ONLINE
Publisher
Managing Editor
Contributing Editor
Social Media Editor
Advertising Sales
Chris McDonell — [email protected]
Cecilia Buy — [email protected]
Bryan Lavery — [email protected]
Jane Antoniak — [email protected]
Jane Antoniak — [email protected]
Gary Rowsell — [email protected]
Finances
Michael Bell, Jim Sisco
Graphics
Contributors
Bryan Lavery, Cecilia Buy, Jane Antoniak,
Jennifer Gagel, Darin Cook, Rick VanSickle,
D.R. Hammond, Sue Sutherland-Wood,
Christie Masse
Editorial Advisory Board Bryan Lavery, Cecilia Buy, Cathy Rehberg
Copy Editor
Jodie Renner — www.JodieRennerEditing.com
Website
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Cover Photo: Chefs Bronwyn
and Aaron Linley, co-owners
of Stratford’s charming Bijou, at
the bistro’s almost-hidden Erie
Street entrance.
Copyright © 2011 eatdrink™ inc. and the writers. All rights reserved.
Reproduction or duplication of any material published in
eatdrink™ or on eatdrink.ca™ is strictly prohibited without the
written permission of the Publisher. eatdrink™ has a circulation of
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contents
ISSUE № 31
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2011
CHATHAM-KEN
T | ELGIN
| HALDIM
OXFORD
AND | LONDO
| SARNIA
-LAMBT
ON | WINDSO N | MIDDLE
SEX | NORFO
R-ESSEX
LK
-PELEE ISLAND
6
14
ON
TARIO’S
SOUT
HWEST
2011 CUL
FROM FARM
CULTURE TO TABLE, LOND
IS COOKING
ON’S
WITH LOCA CULINARY
L FLAVOUR
WWW.LOND
ONTO
INA
RY TOU
Nine Entici
RISM GUI
ng Destination
DE
s. One Delici
ous Regio
n.
6
By BRYAN LAVERY
URISM.CA/C
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ULINARY
www.Onta
riosSouthw
estCulinary
.com
15/06/11
6:07 PM
F O O D W R I T E R AT L A R G E
Taste Your Way Across Ontario’s Southwest
14
R E S TAU R A N T S
Brilliant Bijou, Stratford’s Hidden Treasure
By BRYAN LAVERY
17
The Schoolhouse in Grand Bend
By KYM WOLFE
42 Verandah Café Celebrates 25 Years in London
By CECILIA BUY
17
50 The Elm Hurst Inn & Spa in Ilderton
By CECILIA BUY
FA R M E R S & A R T I S A N S
22 A Bird for All Seasons at Hayter's Turkey Farm
By DARIN COOK
29 Heritage Line Herbs near Aylmer
By CHRISTIE MASSE
42
S P OT L I G H T S
26 Lo Maximo Meats in Chatham-Kent
By DARIN COOK
60 The Bag Lady Variety and Take Away, in London
By BRYAN LAVERY
N E W & N OTA B L E
44
50
32 The BUZZ
COOKBOOKS
44 Meals in Minutes by Jamie Oliver
Review and Recipe Selections by JENNIFER GAGEL
B E E R M AT T E R S
53 Redefining the Light Beer Genre
By THE MALK MONK
WINE
60
THE BUZZ
56 From Tobacco to Grapes in Norfolk County
By RICK VanSICKLE
THE LIGHTER SIDE
62 Cannery Row
By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD
Discover Downtown London
For more information contact:
phone: 519.663.2002
email: [email protected]
www.downtownlondon.ca
tidbits
Refresh and Reboot
By CHRIS McDONELL, eatdrink Publisher
W
e’re hoping that our readers
enjoy the little changes we’ve
made as we refresh the design
of our pages, the beginning of a
reboot of the magazine and website. Toward
that end, we also have updated our Facebook
page and got onboard with Twitter, in order to
better communicate with our readers, and to
bring new folks into the fold. I encourage you
to connect with us (look for eatdrinkmag) and
fulfill the goal for two-way communication.
We want to hear about the culinary world you
live in. Whether you’re a chef or restaurateur
who has menu or business news, or you want
to pass along a fabulous recipe or a personal
recommendation after discovering an outstanding wine, please join the conversation.
Our tag line, “Think Global. Read Local.”
embraces our commitment to promote
sustainability and justice as we celebrate the
outstanding culinary scene in our corner of
Ontario. I think we’ve set a new record for
the number of stories in one issue here, and I
am confident that each person and business
profiled meets our criteria and is worth your
attention and patronage. One of the stories
that we don’t dwell upon in these pages, but
that also is close to our heart at this time, is
that of the devastating tornado that recently
ripped through Goderich. The severe
damage, the loss of a good man’s life, and
the enormous job of rebuilding “Canada’s
Prettiest Town” are parts of a tale that has
not concluded yet, but we will provide
updates and encourage our readers to follow
the links on page 3 and 24. Godspeed.
№ 31
www.eatdrink.ca
| September/October 2011
7
food writer at large
Taste Your Way Across
Ontario’s Southwest
Ontario’s Southwest Culinary Tourism Guide
By BRYAN LAVERY
E
niques. Culinary tourism is all about experiarlier this summer, I wrote and
encing an authentic ‘taste’ of a place rooted
researched the inaugural Culinary
in its terroir. It starts with agriculture and the
Tourism Guide for Ontario’s Southpeople who grow our food. It moves to the
west, which was published by Chris
artisans that craft the ingredients into tastes
McDonell of eatdrink for Tourism Ontario.
such as wine, cheese and beer. It travels to the
Working with McDonell, Project Manager
plate through the craft of the cook and chef.”
Kathy McLaughlin, and design and layout
The culinary guide is a combined initiative
experts, Marco di Carlo and Shane Stuart of
of the tourism authorities of Chatham-Kent,
Velocity studios — who also developed the
Elgin County, Haldimand County, City of
magnificent website — was an
London, Middlesex County,
interesting learning curve. This
Norfolk County, Oxford
guide is the first of its kind. As
County, Sarnia-Lambton,
a long-time proponent of culiWindsor-Essex-Pelee and
nary tourism, I was pleased to
the Ontario Ministry of
help identify and showcase the
Tourism and Culture.
diversity of culinary tourism
My colleagues and I colexperiences found in Ontario’s
laborated with the DMOs
Southwest. The ultimate goal of
(Destination Marketing
the publication is to strengthen
2011 CU
LINARY
TOURISM
Nine Entic
ing Destina
GUIDE
Organizations)
and followed
Ontario’s Southwest, as both a
tions. One
Delicious
FROM FA
Region.
RM viable
TO
a “reference set” of criteria
premium
emerging
CULTand
URE IS CO TABLE, LONDON’S
OKING WI
CULINAR
TH LOCA
Y
L FLAVOU
developed to determine
culinary tourism region.
R
inclusion in the guide. These
The mandate of the Ontarcriteria were employed to
io’s Southwest Culinary
evaluate and highlight each
Tourism Guide is to sustain,
destination’s distinct regional
support and market authenwww.Onta
riosSouthw
estCulinary
culinary assets. We identified
tic culinary tourism experi.com
assets that embrace and proences in Ontario’s Southmote the mandate of the Culiwest. This guide takes a strategic approach to
nary Tourism’s farm-to-table philosophy.
presenting the newly formed RTO 1 Tourism
The guide provides travellers with an overregion for the advancement of each region’s
view of restaurants, wineries, retail shops,
culinary stakeholders, and in particular the
producers, products and farmers’ markets
nine unique destinations that comprise the
that are noted for their abundance of local
newly formed tourism region.
Nowhere is the love of all things food more seasonal options, and showcases the best of
what each destination has to offer.
evident than in the rise of culinary tourism.
100,000 printed copies of this guide
Culinary tourism, as defined by Rebecca
have been made available at local farmers’
Le Heup, Executive Director of the Ontario
markets, restaurants, wineries and tourism
Culinary Tourism Alliance, “includes tourauthorities throughout Ontario’s Southwest.
ism experiences in which one learns about,
appreciates and or consumes food and drink The Southwest Ontario Culinary Guide is
supported and enhanced at www.Ontariosthat reflects regional or national cuisine,
SouthwestCulinary.com with digital media
heritage, culture, tradition or culinary techCHATHAM
-KENT |
ELGIN |
HALDIM
OXFORD
AND | LON
| SARNIA
-LAMBTON
DON | MID
DLESEX
| WINDSO
| NORFO
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LK
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ND
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SOUT
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NDONTO
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ulinary_Co
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URISM.CA
/CULINA
RY
1
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6:07 PM
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№ 31
by a “flip book” version and a short video.
Anyone with a smart phone is able to scan
and read the QR codes to connect to the
individual destination culinary sites and
INTRODUCTION
the Ontario Tourism Marketing Partnership
Corporation (OTMPC). In addition to marketing existing authentic culinary tourism
experiences, events and attractions,
Southwest Ontario’s Culinary Tourism
Guide fosters innovation and creativity by providing a fresh medium where
new trends are identified, established
and nurtured, to ensure the development of the emerging culinary tourism sector.
A key consideration in developing
this initiative has been a solid understanding of the target audiences:
baby boomers ages 35+ with a propensity to travel 4-6 times annually
and showcase getaways that include
cultural, dining and culinary experiences, winery tours, and experiential
culinary attractions and events.
The targeted demographic has an
above-average degree of sophistication and
level of knowledge about the latest trends in
culinary experiences and products. The guide
is directed at Canadian and American visitors
who have a predisposition to access online
Tuscan Grill
Garlic’s of London
Upfront Café
Go ahead.
Take a big bite of
Ontario’s Southwest
authentic flavours.
OM
ARY.COM
STCULINARY.C
IOSSOUTHWESTCULIN
T IOSSOUTHWE
TARIOSSOU
8 | WWW.ONTAR
explore their specific culinary offerings.
The Culinary guide has aligned its
approach with that of the 10-year Culinary
and Tourism Strategy and Action Plan and
Welcome to
Saffron’s
at Fanshawe College
Fanshawe College’s strong commitment to using local
and sustainable foods is reflected in the advanced
dishes offered at Saffron’s. Menus change regularly,
giving our students a practical learning experience
in a fine dining restaurant, and a true understanding
of what it takes to work in the hospitality industry.
Saffron’s is open to the public mid-September through
April, with a modified schedule in May and June.
where theory meets
hands-on hospitality
Saffron’s Fine Dining
“A” Building, Fanshawe College,
1001 Fanshawe College Blvd., London
Open Monday to Friday
Reservations taken
from 11am-2pm and 5pm-8pm
519-452-4433
www.fanshawec.ca/tourism
№ 31
www.eatdrink.ca
sites and to use technology to research travel
destinations.
Ontario’s Southwest is a hot spot of culinary activities, and there are plenty of farmers, fisherman, chefs and culinary artisans
who are advancing their regional and
local culinary identities. These are
the stars of the new and emerging
culinary tourism in Ontario’s Southwest agricultural heartland. Meet the
proud people who grow our food and
produce our beverages.
Today, both the urban and rural
landscapes of Ontario’s Southwest are
dotted with producer-based Farmers’
Markets and farm-gate markets. Local
chefs are committed to promoting local
foods and buying it directly from the
hands that grow and craft it. They are
the pioneers of a new and emerging
culinary regionalism in Southwest
Ontario’s agricultural heartland.
Chefs like Tracy Winkworth at the
Bellworth House in Norfolk County, Eric
Boyar at SixThirtyNine in Oxford County, Kim
Saunders at the Windjammer Inn in Elgin
9
County, Dan Megna and Laurie Lilliman at
the Twisted Apron in Haldimand County, and
Erryn Shephard and Ben Sanwith of F.I.N.E.
restaurant in Sarnia-Lambton all speak to
their terroir and culinary provenance through
ELGIN COUNTY
Railway City
Brewing Company
Elgin County
has a diversity
of great culinary
destinations
F
.....................
.....................
.....................
.......
or dining, choose from
Elgin’s award-winning
chefs and restaurants offering
seasonal and
locally-sourced menus, to
small bistros and
unique tearooms, to casual
diners, outdoor
patios and dockside eateries.
Travel the Savour Elgin
Culinary Trail and visit local
wineries, shop for fresh seasonal
produce at roadside
markets and farm gates,
and stroll through a field
of
lavender. Visit Elgin’s prized
craft brewery, take a
hands-on cooking class
in a historic bank, hike an
enchanted bee trail, or forage
for wild leeks in the
heart of Carolinian Canada.
In June, Shedden holds
its annual Rosy Rhubarb
Festival, and as everyone
in
Elgin County knows — just
like their rhubarb patch
—
every year it gets a bit larger.
48 | WWW.ONTARI
T
TARIOSSOU
OSSOUTHWESTCULIN
OSSOUTHWES
TCULINARY.CO
ARY.COM
M
Windjammer Inn
Quai du Vin Estate Winery
ONT
ONTARIO’S
SOUTHWEST
CULINARY TOURISM
GUIDE | 49
locally sourced seasonal menus.
The cities of London and Windsor offer
every possible dining experience. In London,
www.eatdrink.ca
10
№ 31
chefs like Jason Shubert and Paul Harding of
The Only on King, Kristian Crossen at Braise,
and Wade Fitzgerald at Garlic’s of London are
known for sourcing local ingredients by crafting seminal cooking experiences in their restaurants. In Windsor-Essex, Trevor and Kim
Loop at Jack’s Gastropub & Inn 31, Kate Robinson at The Twisted Apron, Rino Bortolin at
Rino’s Kitchen, Janine Bratt at Taste Bud Bistro, and Laura Clarke-Giberson at Caldwell’s
Grant are all committed to unique locally
sourced menus and VQA wine selections.
Travellers, consumers, locavores, epicures
and foodies can read the Ontario’s Southwest
Culinary Tourism Guide by visiting the website at www.OntariosSouthwestCulinary.com
and searching for individual destinations.
Local Food News
July 30th was Food Day, the largest locavore
event in Canada’s history. Canadians celebrated the day en masse by eating local food
at home, at barbecues and gatherings, and
in restaurants. According to a survey from
BMO Bank of Montreal, 94% of Canadians
believe it is important to purchase home-
grown food. The study identified other notable trends. Albertans prefer local beef, Quebecers look for local maple syrup and 76% of
Ontarians surveyed seek out local fruit.
More and more consumers are touting
the value of “local” foods, often described
as “healthy,” “natural,” “eco-conscious,” and
“sustainable.” According to Sustainable Food
News, “local” as a marketing tool has grown
by 15 percent from 2009 to 2010, and those
numbers continue to increase.
The New Oxford American Dictionary
selected “locavore,” a person who seeks out
locally produced food, as its word of the year
in 2007. Since the term locavore entered the
culinary lexicon, it seems to be on the tip
of everybody’s tongue. Originally, the term
was coined in San Francisco by Jessica Prentice for the 2005 World Environment Day,
to describe consumers who choose locally
produced foods over other high-carbonfootprint options.
In 2007, highly respected author Barbara
Kingsolver wrote the bestselling book, Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, emphasizing the
value of eating locally and detailing her fam-
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№ 31
www.eatdrink.ca
ily’s attempt to eat locally grown food for an
entire year. This book helped bring the local
food movement to the forefront.
Last year, journalist, culinary zeitgeist,
and urban farmer Sarah Elton wrote the
book, Locavore: From Farmers’ Fields to
Rooftop Gardens, How Canadians Are Changing the Way We
Eat. Elton’s book champions
the movement away from global
food production, as the emphasis on local food, sustainability,
terroir and culinary tourism continues to gain momentum across
Canada. Elton writes about
Canadian farmers, artisanal producers, cheese makers, chefs, restaurateurs, farmers’ markets, and
regular folks who are creating sustainable
alternatives to agribusiness and the current
global food system.
In case you missed our last issue, Lynn
Ogryzlo, a well-respected Niagara food,
wine and travel writer, recently authored
the book, The Ontario Table: featuring the
best food from around the province. With
the premise that food is the foundation of
our culture, like Elton, Ogryzlo allows the
readers a behind-the-scenes journey into
the local-food movement. Ogryzlo’s book,
reviewed with two recipes exerpted in Issue
30 of eatdrink (available online
at www.eatdrink.ca/magazine)
is an overview of the Ontario
terroir and the collective culinary and agricultural sensibility
showcasing some of the best
culinary regionalism from
around the province. After two
years of travelling Ontario for
local foods, Ogryzlo concedes
that she has “just skimmed
the surface.” This book, with
its superb photography by
her husband, Jon Ogryzlo, and local and
seasonal recipes paired with Ontario wines
from across the province, is a must-read.
BRYAN LAVERY is an avid proponent of eating “local” and
culinary tourism.
Elgin County has an abundance
of great culinary destinations,
and we’re ready to show them off.
From fine dining to fresh produce,
farmers’ markets, wineries
and breweries, Elgin County
will satisfy every taste.
Savour the tastes of Elgin County.
www.savourelgin.ca
1-877-GO-ELGIN x168
11
Stratford is
more than
great theatre.
Tuesday & Wednesday 10-5 · Thursday & Friday 10-6
Saturday 9:30-5 · Sunday 11-3
STA_SS_ProducerAd_Suzie 11-08-16 12:48 PM Pag
Meet
Suzie
Suzie Turnbull of Pickles, Eh! in
Stratford has two amazing talents.
She’s an expert when it comes to
pickling the Perth County seasonal
vegetable harvest for year-round
enjoyment. She’s also an expert in
Shakespearean theatre, who’s worked
as a dialogue coach at the Stratford
Festival. Folks visiting Stratford can now
book a lesson with Suzie on how to
preserve local seasonal veggies, then
enjoy a wonderful lunch while learning
all about the play they’ll be attending!
We proudly connect Stratford chefs and
Perth County producers to create great
culinary experiences.
www.visitstratford.ca/local
Eat. Drink.
Helping you entertain in
style for over 115 years.
14
www.eatdrink.ca
№ 31
restaurants
Brilliant Bijou
Stratford’s Hidden Treasure Delivers Simple Elegance
By BRYAN LAVERY
T
he Bijou restaurant is a culinary
tourist’s dream
tucked away in a
quiet laneway in Stratford.
I’ve been told that it takes
a certain amount of perseverance for first-timers to
find this delightful landmark bistro. The entrance
is hidden in plain view
behind a block of Wellington Street buildings with
ivy-covered brick walls
located in a laneway off
the Erie Street’s municipal
parking lot, next to the
Bronwyn and Aaron Linley
Queen’s Hotel. There is an
iron gate and a canopied
black door at the entrance to the restaurant. heights. The Linleys expressed themselves by
The exterior sign is an unobtrusive copper
creating a simply-appointed, modest culinary
and metal graphic designed by a friend. Of
space that now seats fifty. There is plenty of
course, I think that Bijou’s inconspicuousfinesse and personality. The art-work of their
ness is part of its allure.
children, Hazel and Liam, adorns the walls.
Bronwyn and Aaron Linley, owners of
The floor is roughed-up wood and the tables
Bijou, met at the Stratford Chefs School,
were fashioned from pieces of restored barn
where they both graduated in 1996. Chef
board that have been dyed. The tables are
Aaron Linley began his culinary career at
situated close to one another with leather
Rundles, attaining the position of souschairs that are dotted with white stitching.
chef. During his tenure at Rundles, he also
There is also banquette seating. The partially
became an instructor with the Stratford
open kitchen was renovated early in the year,
Chefs School. Aaron went on to work at
before the season began.
Scaramouche in Toronto, became the sousBijou’s gastronomic philosophy embraces
chef at Maple Bistro in Halifax, and the head the ideology of local and seasonal; howchef at Le Nouveau Parigo in Toronto. Bron- ever, the Linleys put their own idiosynwyn worked for two seasons at Pan Chancratic stamp on the ever-changing black
cho bakery in Kingston, was Pastry Chef at
slate menu. Their culinary oeuvre may be
Maple Bistro in Halifax, and first Pastry Chef emblematic of the region, but Asian, French
at Biff’s in Toronto.
and Italian culinary influences, which
Bijou was born in Stratford in March 2001
involve techniques as well as ingredients,
and has been a culinary prodigy ever since.
redefine tradition.
Initially inspired by the neighbourhood bisThe kitchen excels when it is expressing
tros of France, the Linleys set out to fashion
the nuances of the local terroir.
an atmosphere of well-being and innovation
The food at Bijou is dazzling, never prethat offered simple cooking at unimagined
dictable, and the menus are always changing
№ 31
Bijou’s dining space is simply
appointed, with rustic touches
of finesse and personality
to highlight seasonal ingredients and the
best local food procurement available. The
restaurant provides an unparalleled “local”
taste experience. The Linleys and their culinary brigade cultivate personal relationships
with farmers and suppliers and are proponents of showcasing Perth County products
and ingredients. The spirit of teamwork is
a hallmark of Bijou’s distinctive and
unique regional culinary sensibility.
There is a patriotic acknowledgement
of the local terroir and support of local
farmers and producers, making Bijou
the embodiment of best practices in
culinary tourism in the Stratford area.
They even have a Hall of Fame on
their website listing their suppliers.
Bijou also sources high-quality and
interesting specialty ingredients from
elsewhere, but the focus is firmly on
culinary regionalism.
In the last issue of eatdrink, I wrote
that a purée of Green Garlic Soup with
‘Bella’ sheep milk cheese and buttery croutons was a knockout here,
and I still can’t get it out of my mind.
Early in the season, we enjoyed flaky
Lake Huron Whitefish with a ragout
of sweet onions, asparagus and fragrant parsley pistou; and Roast Leg
of Venison with bacon, butter, mushrooms, pearl onions and cornichon
salsa. Other recommendations are
the roasted local Beef Rib-eye with
sea salt and good olive oil. If you have
the opportunity, be sure to order the
sublime, succulent braised veal cheeks. The
kitchen also has deftness of touch with fresh
fish. Fresh Pickerel is a revelation in the
kitchen’s hands.
Bijou also prepares interesting and delectable desserts rooted in the French repertoire,
with seasonal ingredients. Napoleons, brûlées
and custards are all satisfyingly elegant.
The ever-changing chalkboard menu
16
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Quality ingredients are the foundation of the Bijou kitchen.
The Linleys put their own idiosyncratic stamp on the Bijou menu,
incorporating local as well as French, Italian and Asian culinary influences,
such as above, a Crispy braised ‘Everspring’ Duck leg with beluga lentils,
baby bok choy and oyster mushrooms stewed in wakame broth
№ 31
There is also a selection of
bite-size artisanal cheeses on
offer, served with Neil Baxter’s
bread.
The wine list, also on a slate
board, is small but well-chosen
with some standout varietals.
There is an interesting assortment
of whites, reds and bubblies, and
some VQA representation.
Bijou is the gold standard
for delicious, inspired, locallysourced cuisine in Stratford. The
service can get a little jaded in
the dog days of summer but is
generally knowledgeable, intelligent and very hospitable. Off season or later in the evening, the
restaurant takes on a less frenetic
persona. I recommend booking
a table for the later seating for a
more leisurely dining experience.
The restaurant relies mostly on
word of mouth, but Aaron has
been quoted as saying, “I used to
advertise in the Herald obituary
section because I assumed that
was the only section that people
in a small town read.” Good to
know that Chef has a sense of
humour. Cooking classes are
available in the winter.
Bijou
105 Erie Street,Stratford
519-273-5000
www.bijourestaurant.com
Twitter: @BijouRestaurant
May to November:
Lunch: Friday to Sunday
11:30 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.
Dinner: Tuesday to Sunday
5:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
November to April:
Dinner Friday and Saturday
5:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
BRYAN LAVERY is an avid proponent of
eating “local” and culinary tourism.
№ 31
www.eatdrink.ca
17
restaurants
Enjoying the Classics with Gusto
The Schoolhouse Restaurant in Grand Bend
By KYM WOLFE
A
short drive from Huron
Country Playhouse, and
just a jog away from Grand
Bend’s main street, the
Schoolhouse Restaurant is still just
far enough off the beaten path that
you might never stumble upon it, but
it’s well worth a short detour to dine
there. The atmosphere is comfortable, the staff is pleasant, the familyfriendly menu offers a good variety
of dishes, and for the lighter appetite
some menu choices are available in
smaller portions. The Schoolhouse
is well-known for its breakfast fare,
which is served until 4 p.m. daily.
The restaurant is owned by a Dutch
brother-sister team, Augustyn Merkies and
Saskia Turner, who spent their childhood
in London and moved to Grand Bend as
teenagers. The siblings have clearly staked
out their territory in the restaurant: Merkies
looks after the kitchen, Turner looks after
everything else. “That’s why it works,” says
The Schoolhouse Restaurant’s charming facade
Turner, who was an accountant with no
prior restaurant experience when she and
Merkies opened the Schoolhouse in 2005.
Merkies, on the other hand, has lived and
breathed food most of his life. An executive
chef, Merkies earned his chops working in
Europe, Western Canada, the Yukon, and
throughout Ontario before returning to
Grand Bend.
The Schoolhouse bills itself as a quality family eatery offering home-cooked
meals at reasonable prices. The menu is
fairly straightforward — classic breakfast
foods (from “Hot and Hearty” to “Fresh
and Healthy”) and for lunch, salads, burgers, sandwiches, and some “old school
favourites” (including chicken pot pie,
ratatouille, and fish and chips). The dinner
menu offers an appetizing variety of starters, and a good selection or beef, chicken,
seafood and pasta entrées. A few dishes
have a Dutch twist, including Nasi Goreng,
a traditional dish from Indonesia, a former
Dutch colony. The dessert list embraces
home-made classics such as apple crumble
and bread pudding. There is a limited wine
and drink list, and specialty coffees are
available, but no cocktails.
18
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Everything on the food menu is made
fresh on the premises, including the breads
and pastries. Many of the ingredients are
sourced locally; for example, all of the
meats come from Metzger’s Meats, just
№ 31
down the road in Hensall.
Merkies’ skill in working with local
ingredients was showcased in August when
he won The Great Lakes Chowder Competition at this year’s Aquafest. The challenge
Sweet & Sticky Beef Ribs
Falling off the bone and succulent, these are ribs Fred
Flintstone would have been proud of. I use the caps from
prime rib rubbed with a spice and slowly roasted for five
hours. Add a good chili sauce and you have these!
Serves 4
2 beef back ribs, trimmed
½ cup (125 mL) rib spice
2 cups (500 mL) chili sauce
1 Preheat oven to 350° F.
2 Rinse ribs under cold running water. Pat dry with
paper towel. Rub ribs with spice mixture and
place in roasting pan. Cover tightly with tin foil
and roast until meat comes easily away from
bone, about five hours.
3 Brush with chili sauce and return to oven,
uncovered, for 10 minutes.
Serve with roasted potatoes and coleslaw.
Chili Sauce
Untitled-2
1
If you slow-roast the tomatoes overnight in a warm oven
(150° F), you’ll bring out the natural rich freshness of the tomato.
30 tomatoes
4 cups (1 L) onion, diced
3 red peppers, diced
3 cups (750 mL) green peppers, diced
2 cups (500 mL) celery, diced
10 cloves garlic, minced
3 cups (750 mL) brown sugar
3 cups (750 mL) white vinegar
3 tbsp (40 mL) rib spice
Combine all the ingredients in a large
pot. Bring to slow simmer and cook until
thick, about three hours.
Rib Spice
10 tsp (50 mL) salt
10 tsp (50 mL) paprika
7 tsp (35 mL) onion powder
5 tsp (25 mL) garlic powder
5 tsp (25 mL) dry mustard
5 tsp (25 mL) thyme
5 tsp (25 mL) cumin
2 tsp (10 mL) black pepper
2 tsp (10 mL) white pepper
Mix all the ingredients well.
11/08/2011
9:40:56 AM
№ 31
for Southwestern Ontario chefs
was to create chowders using fish
from the Great Lakes, with celebrity chef Anthony Walsh of Toronto’s Canoe Restaurant leading this
year’s team of judges.
Also this summer, Merkies published a cookbook, Cooking with
Gusto at the Schoolhouse Restaurant, a play on both his first name
and his passion for creating in the
kitchen. Stories about life in the
kitchen are interwoven with recipes from the restaurant.
From certain vantage points
in the dining room, you can peer
into the kitchen and see Merkies
and his kitchen staff in action. It’s not a
large space, and at times it seems they are
engaged in an intricate dance as they move
quickly and efficiently around one other,
shaking a pan here, stirring a pot there, and
plating the meals.
The kitchen takes up part of the original
classroom space where students attended
Grand Bend Public School. The school
opened in 1874 and was converted to a private residence in 1925 when a new school
was built. At some point, an addition was
added to one side for a hair salon; now it is
the main dining area. In all, the main level
has seating for 48, a private dining room in
the lower level can hold
up to 18 people, and in
warmer weather there a
few tables on the patio
for up to 14. Historic
pictures adorn the walls
throughout, capturing scenes from Grand
Bend’s past, including
the restaurant’s signature photo: the class
of ’21 in front of Grand
Bend Public School,
School Section No. 8.
The restaurant welcomes a steady stream
of Grand Bend visitors,
Playhouse patrons
and regulars during the busy season,
which starts in the
spring, hits its peak
during summer tourist season, and tapers
www.eatdrink.ca
19
off into autumn. “It’s quite strong in the
fall, as this area is quite beautiful and still
draws a lot of people,” says Turner.
The Schoolhouse is open year-round,
and from October to April there is a theme
each month — Oktoberfest, Italian, French,
seafood, Mardi Gras and others — which
keeps people coming back. And Merkies
and Turner are also playing with the idea of
offering cooking classes this year.
The Schoolhouse Restaurant
19 81st Crescent, Grand Bend
(519) 238-5515
www.schoolhouserestaurant.ca
hours of operation:
monday to friday,
9 a.m. to 9 p.m.
saturday and sunday
8 a.m. to 9 p.m.
KYM WOLFE is a freelance
writer based in London.
Executive Chef and co-owner
Augustyn Merkies, left, and
his sister and co-owner,
Saskia Turner, right, opened
The Schoolhouse in 2005. The
interior, above, embraces the
building’s past with style.
20
www.eatdrink.ca
№ 31
Dine • Shop • Stay • Play
Enjoy Ontario’s West Coast
A Fresh Take on Tradition
Tickets Now Available
Come for dinner or a romantic
getaway on the Huron Shore
Winemaker’s
Dinner
Saturday Nov. 5
to support Parkinson’s
Disease Research
Stylish German Cuisine
Distinctive Accommodations
www.hessenland.com
RR #2 Zurich ON
Hwy 21, north of Grand Bend,
1 hour from London
519-236-7707 or 1-866-543-7736
Red Pump
the
Bayfield, Ontario
Canada N0M 1G0
Most Romantic Guest
Suites & Gourmet Cuisine
suites@ theredpumpinn.com
№ 31
www.eatdrink.ca
November 11-13
2nd Annual
Christmas Open House
& Shopping Extravaganza
Special and unique gift items.
We have them all in Grand Bend!
Great Fresh Food from Ontario’s West Coast
BREAKFAST ~ LUNCH ~ DINNER
Tuesday to Friday: 9 am to 9 pm
Saturday & Sunday: 8 am to 9 pm
the 2011
Winner of
s
Great Lake tion
pe
m
o
C
r
e
d
Chow
It’s not too early to book
for Thanksgiving!
Make your reservation today.
519-238-2001
www.grandbendtourism.com
Communities In Bloom “Prettiest In Town” Award
Recommended in “Where To Eat”
Eat Smart Award of Excellence
Taste of Huron 2010 Chef Challenge Winner
E
CH
NG
Chef Terry Kennedy uses the freshest
seasonal and local ingredients.
A beautiful Victorian
CHALLE
EF
house provides the
perfect setting for
lunch or dinner.
20
10 W I N N E R
www.thymeon21.com
Serving Lunch and Dinner
Closed Mondays
Reservations Recommended
80 Hamilton Street, Goderich
519.524.4171
www.thymeon21.com
21
519.238.6224
42 Ontario Street South, Grand Bend
www.finearestaurant.com
22
www.eatdrink.ca
№ 31
farmers & artisans
A Bird for All Seasons
Hayter’s Turkey Farm in Dashwood
By DARIN COOK
T
here are few products
that create a more
memorable culinary
image than a whole
roasted turkey, glistening with its
golden skin, taking centre stage at
the Thanksgiving dinner table. For
over sixty years, Hayter’s Farm in
Dashwood has played an important
role in filling holiday platters with
these traditional birds. In fact,
Tradition is a word imprinted on
their logo: the farm and the familyrun business have been handed
down through three generations.
In 1948, Harry Hayter started with 300 turkeys on 120 acres of farmland. This has since
expanded to more than 3,000 acres, and the
business has been passed to Harry’s son, Tom
Hayter, and daughter, Joanne Maguire, and
now employs sixty people (including Tom’s
wife, Elaine, and five grandchildren — David
and Sean Maguire, and Justin, Adam, and
Lindsay-Jayne Hayter). Joanne recognizes
that her father was an innovative, openminded, and dedicated businessman, and
they continue to operate in his style with an
eye for continuous improvement, while never
losing sight of their attention to quality.
In the early 1980s, the first processing
The retail outlet store at Hayter’s Farm
plant was added to the farm. It has been
renovated at least seven times over the years,
including the acquisition of a high-tech,
Multivac tray-sealer machine — the first one
ever used in Canada — to better package
and label their products. With improved processing facilities, the quantity of turkeys has
increased dramatically over the years, often
reaching 6,000 turkeys a week, and during
the holiday seasons peaking at 50,000 for
each Thanksgiving and Christmas. Turkeys
are, however, processed all year-round with
approximately half sold as whole birds and
the other half further processed into parts.
This brings us to the second part of their
logo — Taste — which has nudged their
business away from the traditional in order to experiment
Elaine and Joanne with some of Hayter’s
turkey products inside the spacious store.
№ 31
with a variety of turkey products. They have
no trouble filling the time between the seasonal peaks, by processing fresh and frozen
turkey products from utility birds. Not messing with success, the Hayters have continued
to use the same recipes since they started
this segment of the business in 1987, resulting
in some best-selling products, like their Original Turkey Sausage and Turkey Schnitzel.
The product lines have expanded since then
with value-added items to satisfy a customer
base looking for more than just basic turkey
breasts, such as Onion and Parsley Turkey
Burgers and seasoned Teriyaki Turkey Filets.
They even offer unique, ready-to-cook items
that are not typically associated with the
bird, such as Lasagna and Shepherd’s Pie,
which are prepared by an outside caterer,
Jerry Rader, and sold in the store. In a recent
development, Hayter’s Farm has partnered
with nearby butcher Gerhard Metzger of Hensall to smoke their turkey meat for smoked
sausage and bacon, which, along with their
turkey pepperettes, have quickly become
products that fly off the shelves.
The farm is not only successful in selling
the end product, but also takes great pride in
ethically raising all the turkeys supplied by
neighbouring Cuddy Farms in Strathroy and
Cold Springs Farm in Thamesford. Received as
one-day old poults, the turkeys are reared for
fifteen to seventeen weeks until they are ready
for processing at thirty to thirty-five pounds.
The turkeys are housed in spacious quarters
and are 100% hormone- and-steroid free.
Along with a high level of dedication to meet
health and safety standards, having the turkeys
well-nurtured in a single, controlled location
results in the highest quality product.
Right on the farm and just steps away from
where the turkeys roam in their comfortable
living space, there is an outlet store offering
all the Hayter’s products. Halfway between
Exeter and Grand Bend on County Road 83, a
visit to the store is well worth the trip. It is clean
and well-kept, with a friendly and customerfocused team led by Elaine. Other retailers across Ontario also carry the products,
including several grocery markets in London.
Recently, Longo’s in the GTA has started buying Hayter’s turkeys to market under their own
private-label brand. A number of restaurants,
such as Jack Astor’s, order Hayter’s products to
incorporate into their menus items.
The Hayter’s retail store also supports
other family-run businesses by selling local
24
Goderich
Disaster Relief Fund
Those wishing to make a financial donation to the
Goderich Disaster Relief Fund, can do so at any Chartered
Bank and the Goderich Community Credit Union.
Other donations (food, clothing etc., or to volunteer) please call 211.
If you are calling long distance please call 1-866-743-7818.
Mail or deliver your cheque to:
Disaster Relief Fund
Goderich Town Hall
57 West Street
Goderich, Ontario N7A 2K5
Make cheques payable to: Goderich Disaster Relief Fund
and please remember to include your name and mailing address.
PLEASE NOTE:
• Monies donated to this fund will be matched by the Province of Ontario on a 2:1 basis;
• Donations are tax deductible;
• No conditions can be attached to donations;
• All Administrative costs are paid by the province, not donated funds.
You may also donate through The United Way of Perth-Huron
www.unitedwayperth.on.ca/DONATE_NOW.html
To direct your donation to Goderich, type the keyword “Goderich”
Phone: 1-877-818-8867
№ 31
www.eatdrink.ca
25
tips on how to marry the condiments
and the turkey into tasty dishes, the
Hayter’s website has some delicioussounding turkey recipes, like Turkey
Bacon Mushroom Caps and Thai
Coconut Turkey Soup, to elaborate
on the theme that this bird is not
only for special occasions. Even as
you choose between white or dark
meat at the holiday dinner table,
don’t forget the numerous meal
options for the rest of the year from
Hayter’s Farm.
Hayter’s retail store offers an assortment of products that
complement their turkey, as well as serving as an LCBO
and Beer Store outlet.
condiments that complement their turkeys.
Cranberries are offered, of course, from Johnston’s Cranberries in Bala, as well as honey
from Ferguson’s Apiaries in Hensall, sauces
and marinades from Rootham’s in Guelph,
and Robinson’s Maple Syrup from Auburn.
Along with recipe cards in the store that offer
Hayter’s Farm
37467 Dashwood Rd., R.R. 2,
Dashwood
519-237-3561
www.haytersfarm.com
DARIN COOK is a freelance writer who keeps himself well
read and well fed by visiting the bookstores and food purveyors
of the region.
Natural European Sourdough Bread,
from Our Oven to Your Table
Passion Bread
Lovingly kneaded, a culmination of skill and art ...
a nourishing traditional bread to delight the senses
Hello Jane,
copy is as follows: (and.can we say somewhere - "Ontario fresh"?)
The Pig's Tail Caesar
Mix your favourite Caesar
cocktail recipe using bacon
infused vodka (optional). Off
the
garnish a cocktail pick to LondonFaonrmFr, we’re in:
Masonville Fa idays @
rmers’ Marke
look like a pig's tail with Go
a de
t
rich on
garlic scape, cooked & Market on thSaetuSqrduaays @
re
dried 1" bacon piece,
Burdan’s
Red
? pickled garlic
clove.Cat Farm
82560 Bluewater
Hwy, Goderich
Cheers!
Across from Point Farms Park, 5k N of town on Hwy 21
Tuesdays & Fridays 9AM - 6PM
Fresh Pickled Garlic
& Scapes
Saturdays
2PM available
- 6PM at
Speciality
orof the month
Open
House food
first shops
Sunday
www.thegarlicbox.com <http://www.thegarlicbox.com/>
519-524-1283
[email protected]
The Pig’s Tail Caesar
Mix your favourite Caesar cocktail
recipe using bacon-infused vodka
(optional). Garnish a
cocktail pick to look like
a pig’s tail with a
garlic scape,
cooked & dried
1" bacon piece,
and a pickled
garlic clove.
CHEERS!
Fresh Pickled
Garlic & Scapes
are available at
The Garlic Box or
at speciality shops.
And visit us online
for more “Ontario
Fresh” garlic recipes!
www.thegarlicbox.com
toll free 1.888.772.9994 • Hensall, ON
Available at Jill’s Table, Kingsmills, Remark Fresh Market & Bradshaws (Stratford)
26
www.eatdrink.ca
№ 31
spotlight
Live “La Vida Local” at Casa Latina
with Lo Maximo Meats at Spence Farms in Chatham-Kent
by DARIN COOK
I
recently travelled south to
sample the flavours of Ecuador. And it wasn’t nearly as
far as the South American
country itself, but merely a sixtyminute drive southwest of London.
With a Spanish name to match
its philosophy, Lo Maximo Meats
is an offshoot venture of Spence
Farms in Chatham-Kent. The people responsible for the Ecuadorian
food are Canadian farmer Paul
Spence and his wife Sara Caiche,
who was born in Gauyaquil, Ecuador, and now shares her style of
cuisine with other Ontarians.
The Experience Casa Latina dinners are held in the old schoolhouse
One thing that makes Lo Maxand has expanded this educational aspect
imo Meats unique is the cuts of
meat commissioned from the local abattoir. of his business with Experience Casa Latina,
which cannot be considered a restaurant
These are cuts that are often overlooked
— since the dinners are only offered once
in Canada, but essential in South Ameria month from April to October with limited
can cooking, where no part of the animal
seating — but it is more of an instructive culis wasted, including the heart, tongue, or
tural event to learn about culinary traditions.
feet. When Paul started selling his meat at
The Experience Casa Latina evening begins
Masonville Farmers’ Market last summer, he
with a tour of Spence Farms, which started
identified a need to educate people about
five generations ago with 70 acres and has
how their farm’s meat differs from standard
expanded to 140 today. The first barn was
grocery store fare. He uses the Spanish
built in the early 1800s and is still used to
names for the meat on his menu board to
house livestock and catch runoff rain water
interest people in trying something new,
Paul Spence and Sara
Caiche (immediate
left), are the team
behind Experience Casa
Latina, which offers an
authentic Ecuadorian
cultural and culinary
experience. The dinner
(far left) is served
buffet-style.
№ 31
www.eatdrink.ca
27
for irrigation. After being away at
other jobs for ten years, Paul decided
to move back to the family farm that
had always been a part of his life, to
explore other options there.
The literal translation of Lo
Maximo is not merely “the best”
but one step above that — what can
only be described as “the bestest,”
— a concept unique to the Spanish
language and an ideal Paul strives
for in his food’s quality. Paul’s interest in pursuing quality food was
sparked when he and Sara were married in Ecuador. The wedding feast
has stuck with him as one of those
A selection of meats modelled after the Latin-style parrillado
defining moments when he realized
how incredibly tasty food could and
quail for their eggs, which are a valued delishould be. The Ecuadorians showed
cacy in South America but are difficult to find
him how integral food is to their lifestyle,
here. Latino shoppers regularly express their
and Paul now understands his wife’s difdelight to Paul in being able to get products
ficulty when she first moved to Canada, not
they love so close to where they live.
only with culture shock but a sort of food
And he often has to get creative to proshock, because nothing tasted as good to her
duce these foods and silence critics who
as it did from her homeland.
deny that certain crops will grow in the
The cultural inspiration for the meal may
Canadian climate. For instance, Paul has
come from miles away, but that is the only
created a greenhouse out of an old school
thing that has travelled across borders for
bus, which he waters with rain runoff from
it to take place. With a goal of serving 90%
his barns. He is experimenting with avocado
of the meal with food that was raised and
shrubs and yucca plants in the greenhouse.
grown within a stone’s throw away, Paul is
proud that Experience Casa Latina keeps the Yucca are to South Americans what potatoes
farm-to-fork principle within his own hands. are here, but they take eight months to grow,
so having an extended growing season in the
Latino immigrants love to talk about their
bus greenhouse allows him to experiment
food, and Paul has become an honorary
in an environment that couldn’t occur natucultural advocate. He aspires to provide the
rally in the shorter Canadian summer.
Latino community of London with the types
Not only is the food local, but the architecof food they can’t find in Canada — and can’t
ture is also rooted in heritage. After the tour
afford to have shipped here. Lo Maximo
Meats offers beef, pork, and chicken, but Paul of the farm, Paul directs us to an old schoolhouse that his father and uncle (both still
is converting sections of the farm to raise
Friday & Saturday!
8am to 2pm
ly
lusive
An Exc r-Based
ce
Produ ’s Market
r
e
Farm
Masonville Farmers’ Market
North London’s Fresh Alternative
SE Corner of Richmond Street & Fanshawe Park Road
Open twice a week this year!
Fridays & Saturdays,
8am to 2pm
www.masonvillefarmersmarket.ca
519-438-5942
28
www.eatdrink.ca
A greenhouse created in an old school bus
active at Spence Farms) attended as children.
It seems fitting that the dinner takes place in
a schoolhouse, because Paul is as much an
educator as he is a farmer. He has researched
Latin-style barbeque, both from several trips
to Ecuador since their wedding and from
cookbooks, written in Spanish, which his wife
helps translate. Before dinner commences,
Paul delivers a meat workshop to inform us
about what we are about to eat.
Modelled after Latin-style barbecue, called
parrillada, meat takes centre stage with several cuts, like sirloin tips, short ribs, and, for
the more adventurous, hearts and kidneys,
grilled over a large barbeque. With a rice
and bean mixture as a side dish, and a delicious chimichurri sauce for the meat, this is
your typical Ecuadorian parrillada, but Sara
veered away slightly from the traditional by
offering lettuce and cabbage salads.
№ 31
Sara also made two delicious
Ecuadorian desserts. Morocho is
similar to a rice pudding but made
with mota, a corn-type staple used
in many Ecuadorian dishes and
another vegetable Paul experiments
with on the farm. Queso de leche was
our second dessert — a creamy flan
with caramel topping.
With Chatham-Kent beef, Ecuadorian flavours, Latino flair, and
local hospitality, this meal was
delightful, and all the other guests
at the barbeque shared my enthusiasm about what we had eaten and
learned at this unique Ontario farm
from our friendly, welcoming hosts, who
showed us how to enjoy local food with a
Latino twist.
Spence Farm
11945 Selton Line, R.R. #3, Kent Bridge ON
519-365-9791
[email protected]
Also find them on Facebook
Lo Maximo Meats
Fridays at Masonville Farmers’ Market
[email protected]
Enter the draw to win an Experience Casa Latina event for sixteen
guests (value $800).
DARIN COOK is a freelance writer who keeps himself wellread and well-fed by visiting the bookstores and restaurants of
London and Southwestern Ontario.
The Spence Farm chickens
№ 31
www.eatdrink.ca
29
farmers & artisans
Growing with the Thymes
Heritage Line Herbs and The Silver Birch Tea Room, near Aylmer
By CHRISTIE MASSÉ
T
om and Deb Benner, proud owners
of Heritage Line Herbs near Aylmer,
have worked hard to transform a
third-generation tobacco farm into
an organic herb farm, as well as a specialty
shop and tea room. Back in 1931, when Tom’s
grandfather planted his first tobacco crop,
he could not have predicted the rollercoaster
ride nicotiana tabacum would lay out for the
generations to follow. At first, this high commodity plant’s footprint was one for which its
community was grateful. Tom explains of the
times, “Previously underfunded municipal
councils saw their tax base increase almost
exponentially. Roads were paved, new
schools and hospitals built — all was well!”
The farm, built and equipped to harvest this
cash crop, was a success for fifty years.
When the nineties hit, health concerns
became priority and the government ceased
its support and increased its taxes. In order
to continue farming, the family had to make
some radical changes. Contemplating crop
options conducive to their sandy land, equipment, and system, the Benners saw an opportunity and bought some herbs. From butts to
buds, they began offering both nutritionally
beneficial and palate-stimulating products
to their community. They’ve been growing in
the right direction ever since.
Heritage Line Herb’s excellent dried herb
products are sold across Canada at over fifty
Some of the Heritage Line Herbs gardens
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The Silver Birch Tea Room
locations, including Remark Fresh Markets
of London and The Butcher The Baker of
Stratford. You can also buy these products,
plus their jams and salsas and over a hundred varieties of herbal teas at their farm just
east of Aylmer.
High Tea
Visitors to the farm will also find, steeped
in resplendence, the outdoor Silver Birch
Tea Room. Inspired by daughter Melissa’s
experiences while working in Vietnam, the
family wanted to bring the peaceful beauty
of Vietnamese tea gardens to an Ontario setting. Their tableside waterfall and gazebo are
connected with a walkway lined with plant
after bush of aromatic herbs. As I made
this discovery, Gene Wilder’s voice rang in
my ears — “Almost everything you see is
eatable. Edible. I mean you can eat almost
everything.” It truly is the herb-lover’s outdoor Wonka Chocolate Room.
In spring I had the pleasure of witnessing Deb on bended knee planting some of
this year’s herbal landscape. The following
visit I found her, hair-in-net, in the kitchen
working on some products as well as preparing menu items for her tea room guests.
Another time, she was host to a Mother’s
Day Brunch. Often she is leading groups
on information-packed tours of the garden
and greenhouses. There isn’t a facet in
which Deb, her husband, children, and coworker friends are not involved at this farm,
a business that represents so much more
than herbs.
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Norwegian Jade
7 & 9 Day Canary Islands
from Barcelona
A fresh, tasty and gluten-free lumch
Groups can book tours of the farm, followed by special lunch menus enjoyed at the
tea room. Gluten-free options of all kinds are
baked on site. Virtually every menu item is
made in house or is sourced from local producers. The tea room is open from June until
the end of September. Their summertime
menu tempts the senses with family recipe
inspirations and such delicacies as Lemon
Thyme Cheesecake and Pineapple Sage
Pound Cake served with Chocolate Mint
Dip. Deb explains, “The Chocolate Mint Dip
is our secret recipe, but we will say that the
herb ‘chocolate mint’ is an important ingredient.” The Lemon Thyme Cheesecake is not
a Lemon and Thyme fusion, but showcases
the beautiful herb itself. This theme flows
throughout the menu. They have so many
varieties of herbs at hand and the creativity
to utilize them that you’ll enjoy a unique
culinary experience. Reservations can be
made for a tour or lunch date.
Heritage Line Herbs
53443 Heritage Line, Aylmer
519-866-5577
www.heritagelineherbs.com
Hours of Operation
Tuesday to Friday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Saturdays 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Sundays 12 noon to 4 p.m.
Closed Mondays
CHRISTIE MASSÉ is a graduate of the Stratford Chefs
School and now runs Crust Catering & Bakery in St. Thomas
(www.crustcatering.ca).
Dec. 8, 2011 to April 21, 2012
New!
CALL for prices & details
7 Night Greek Isles
from Venice
May 12-19, 2012
Inside
$885.00
(cat IC)
Oceanview
$1182.00
(cat OA)
Balcony
$1542.00
(cat BA)
Included in Fare: Cruise and Taxes
PLUS $100 USD Shipboard Credit per stateroom
Not Included – Airfare / transfers / tipping
All fares are in CDN dollars and are per person
based on double occupancy.
Norwegian Jade offers exciting nightclubs, award-winning
restaurants, a grand casino, swimming pools, a pampering
spa and so much more. From traditional fine dining to
endless buffets with custom-order action stations, there is
a host of delicious options included in your cruise fare. For an
additional cover charge, you’ll have access to a world of
possibilities including gourmet French, Japanese teppanyaki
and an upscale steakhouse – 16 different dining options in all.
se Presentation!
an
a Norwegian Crui
You’re invited to nary Islands, Alaska and the Caribbe
13-1933
2012, Ca
Presenting Europe • Idlewyld Inn • 7:30pm • RSVP 519-9
er 19
Wednesday, Octob
Now you’re halfway there! Call your
Cruise Holidays agent at 519-913-1933
for more information.
Cruise Holidays
747 Hyde Park Road, Su ite # 208,
London, ON N6H 3S3
519-913-1933
www.cruiseholidays.com
TICO #50018778
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The BUZZ ... new and notable
F
all is the season to enjoy the season’s harvest at
farmgates, markets, fairs and festivals. Celebrate
our farmers and dine on the bounty at your own
table, or at nearby restaurants that feature the
fresh, the local, and the seasonal.
Due to the tragic events caused by the tornado that struck
Goderich and area on Sunday, August 21, the organizing
committees of Taste of Huron and West Coast Bluesfest
made the decision to cancel the events scheduled for Labour
Day weekend in Goderich. The Food For Thought Dinners
and the Taste of Huron Gala Dinner are going full steam
ahead, with a portion of all ticket sales donated to the
Goderich Tornado Relief Fund.
The Taste of Huron Gala Dinner is taking place Saturday,
September 10, 7:30–11:00 p.m., $100 per person, Bluewater
Shores Lakefront Resort, 77683 Bluewater Hwy, Clinton. A
Gala Dinner Accommodations Package is available at The
Red Pump Inn.
Local forces are re-focusing their efforts on organizing a
fundraiser in early fall, with all proceeds going towards the
Goderich Tornado Relief Fund through the United Way of
Perth-Huron. www.tasteofhuron.ca
The Downtown Culinary Initiative is an association
recently created to position Downtown London as a
premiere dining destination and highlight the diversity of
culinary experiences offered in London’s Downtown Dining
District. The association is being developed by strategic
leaders in the local culinary industry to enhance the
profile and profitability of downtown culinary businesses
(restaurants, retail, markets, and specialty shops) and
encourage our emerging culinary tourism sector. The
association’s mandate will be to develop, communicate and
educate the public regarding local culinary initiatives and be a
representative voice of its members.
In an unprecedented initiative, 28 core-area restaurants
recently prepared for the influx of 2,600 delegates for
the Association of Municipalities of Ontario (AMO)
conference. The restaurants collaborated with Tourism
London and Downtown London to make the delegates
aware of the city’s dining scene. From creating special prixfixe menus to providing gift certificates for special draws
for delegates, local restaurants went all out to make these
visitors feel at home and experience the very best of fresh
local cuisine
Comfort Foods.
smoked ready-to-go pre-cooked ribs
speciality sausages
meats for stews and casseroles
house-cured luncheon meats
braising meats and pot roasts
smoked and crusty baked pork hocks
dry-cured bacon speck
Known by the best chefs in Ontario – and discerning
home cooks – as a premium producer, Metzger’s
uses the best raw ingredients, with local meats and
traditional recipes. The result is healthier products,
fashionable presentations of ready-to-cook meats,
and delicious traditionally-smoked German delights.
Metzger.
A German butcher right in our own backyard.
Hensall, Ontario. Just off Hwy 4, 45 minutes north of London.
Open six days a week.
519-262-3130
www.metzgermeats.com
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Che Resto-bar, at 225 Dundas, is the latest big-ticket entry
in the London’s hot upscale dining scene. Mavin Rivas’s
stylish restaurant will feature unique, distinctive and delicious
pan-Latin cuisine. Chef German Nunez and his culinary team
are expected to add a fiery splash of authentic Peruvian and
South American culture to the downtown culinary scene.
Chef Erin Harris is now selling Stratford’ Monforte Dairy
cheese at the outdoor Farmers’ Market at Covent Garden
Market on Saturdays.
Twenty-eight years of exceptional food and service excellence
are the hallmarks that have made Michael’s On the Thames
a celebratory destination dining experience. Owner Brian
Stewart and Chef Denis Clavette are revamping their
menus to highlight seasonal ingredients sourced from a
variety of both new and long-established local producers.
Lunch
specials
STARTING AT
Long Phan and the creative chefs Quynh and Nhi at
Tamarine (www.tamarine.ca) on Dundas St., have developed
a new prix fixe menu featuring three courses and priced from
$25 to $29.
$5
855 Wellington Road South, London
Mon-Fri Open : am • Sat Open  am • Sun Open  am
Kantina (www.kantina.ca), at 511 Talbot St., is a contemporary, casual hot spot serving great food at reasonable prices,
and is now open seven nights a week. Menu items are made
from scratch, in-house and by hand by culinary acrobat Chef
Danijel Markovic.
Owner Rob Taylor and Chef Kristian Crossen are
developing an exciting new menu format for Braise Food &
Wine (www.braise.ca): A table d’hôte menu featuring two
appetizers, two main courses, a cheese course and a dessert in
addition to a smaller “regular” menu. This fall, Braise will also
be offering a series of winemaker’s dinners.
125 Dundas Street, across from Kingsmill’s.
ALWAYS a
3-course
prix fixe
menu
option
432 Richmond St.
at Carling • London
FREE PARKING
After 6 pm off Queens Ave
www.davidsbistro.ca
White Pomegranate is London’s newest upscale catering team. With an eye for detail, Chef Robbin Azzopardi
and Mark Babcook create a customized catering experience and deliver it with ease and professionalism. These
two have quickly made a name for themselves as one of
London’s top catering companies. Their new website (www.
whitepomegranate.ca) has just been launched.
After eight years at the Idelwyld Inn, John and Christine
Kropp have sold the Inn to two great businessmen from
London. The Kropps have headed off in their RV through the
Rocky Mountains and will be enjoying a relaxing winter in
Florida ... then, who knows? Christine and John won’t likely sit
still for very long.
Over a decade since first forming their first partnership,
Marcel Butchey and Chef Alfred Estephan are pleased to
announce their newest venture — The Idlewyld, London’s
Historic Boutique Hotel, now featuring Avenue Dining.
Butchey, who was born and raised in London, has returned to
the city after spending over a decade abroad. His hospitality
career began at a variety of private clubs throughout Ontario
before transitioning into a career in the hotel industry starting
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with the Fairmont Royal York. A graduate of the Master’s
program at Ecole Hoteliere de Lausanne, Marcel spent
nearly three years in Switzerland then a year in the Middle
East, before deciding to return home.
Chef Estephan has nearly 30 years of experience, so
there isn’t much he hasn’t seen in a kitchen. His unique and
creative approach to cuisine has been rewarded with 25
culinary competition medals and a loyal following of well-fed
clients. He is also credited with the training and mentoring of
many local chefs. At Idlewyld, he gets to display his culinary
creativity in a truly unique setting while supporting local
producers and farmers.
The Black Walnut Bakery and Café on Wortley Road has
changed hands. But the good news is that former co-owner
and baker extraordinaire Michelle Lenhardt has stayed on.
The new owners, Wilson and daughter Mandy Etheridge
plan to keep the feel of the Black Walnut the same — same
great food, great staff and atmosphere, but with additional
seating, a bigger patio, a larger menu and extended hours.
They have already started to open up later, until 8 p.m. on
Thursday and Friday.
Wilson has owned many successful catering companies and
cafés in the past. Mandy went to Fanshawe College’s Culinary
program and has been working in restaurants in London for
the past 10 years, the last three years at the Organic Works
Bakery, where she developed new products and managed the
bakery. Charles Arseneault, Mandy’s fiancé, is also on-site.
He is also a chef and plans to develop the catering side of the
business. The outside of the café has recently been painted, and
they’ve added a new awning and extended the patio.
35
historic building was the location for training Canadian soldiers
during the two World Wars. Chef Chris Chitty serves a
locally-sourced menu of delicious internationally-inspired
cuisine. During August and September, the Grille celebrates
“SteakFest” daily from 5:30 to 9 p.m.
The Artisanal Culinary Arts is a one-year graduate program
at Fanshawe College that allows students to specialize in
an artisanal culinary field, develop a more profound respect
for food, and explore the concept of food sovereignty with a
sustainable model of agriculture, in contrast to Canada’s current
industrial system of food production. This program will create
LAVENDER BLUE
is now
growers & creators of fine lavender products
DISCOVER
Steed & Company Lavender, part of a
45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta
INDULGE
in our unique handcrafted lavender products
The Morrissey House on Dundas, with its unique selection of
beers and innovative pub food offerings, continued to be a hot
spot for loyal patrons who visited the popular 60-seat patio this
summer, despite the constant construction and heavy equipment surrounding the restaurant. Faced with the profound challenges of construction, owner Mark Serre is glad he kept the
business open, and is looking forward to the completion of the
work and the new landscaping once the road work is complete.
ESCAPE
The Grille at London’s Delta Armouries has been recently
refurbished and redecorated. Originally constructed in 1905, this
www.steedandcompany.com
in the wonderful scent
and calming powers of lavender
519-494-5525
47589 Sparta Line, Sparta
[email protected]
Open Wed-Sat 10-5; Sun 12-4
Mother’s Day through Christmas
Chris a
s
Open Htm
ouse
Novemb
er
26 & 27
Featuring Local
Farm to Table
Cuisine
A Heritage B&B & Bistro
LUXURY JACUZZI SUITES
LIVE MUSIC
Sunday Acoustic
Brunch
OVER THE BRIDGE, BEFORE THE BEACH
36
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chefs that have demonstrated a competence in traditional food
preparation such as preserving, artisanal baking, and butchery.
Students will acquire an expertise in the use of local/sustainable products to create advanced dishes, menus, and recipes. A
theme throughout the program is to promote chefs who appreciate the origins of food, in addition to the hard work and processing methods that affect specific elements such as the taste
and quality of the finished product. More important, graduates
will learn how to share these different attributes with a diverse
clientele on both a national and international level.
There is plenty of news from Fire Roasted Coffee:
A Coffee & Chocolate Tasting at Western Fair Farmers’
and Artisans’ Market will happen on Saturday October 15,
from 11 a.m.–1 p.m. Six types of handmade artisanal chocolate
from Habitual Chocolate Roasters will be paired with six
types of freshly roasted coffee from the same regions as the
cocoa. Discover the similarities and nuances shared among
beans from Madagascar, Ecuador, Mexico, Dominican Republic,
Papua New Guinea, and Costa Rica. At Fire Roasted Coffee Cafe
on the 2nd floor of the Confederation Building. Cost: $20.00
Fire Roasted Coffee is excited to offer a new selection of full
leaf teas to tempt your palate and engage your senses. Choose
from: Green Elephant Green Tea FTO (Fair Trade Organization),
OM Chai FTO, Summer Solace FTO (Herbal), Assam TGFOP FTO,
Earl Grey FTO, Earl Green FTO, Chamomile Organic, Rooibos
FTO, Peppermint Organic, Japan Sencha and more!
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The Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market will be
operating on Saturdays only during the Western Fair —
September 9–18. For free parking on Friday & Saturday, visit
the Market between 9 and 10 a.m. The Western Fair opens
at 3 p.m., so there will be free parking from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Monday through Thursday.
The 2011 United Way Campaign Launch & 3M Harvest
Lunch will take place at the John Labatt Centre on
Wednesday, September 14, starting at 11:30 a.m. A delicious,
economical lunch, including a scrumptious Red Roaster deli
sandwich, a beverage, chips, and a handheld fruit & ice cream
dessert, will be served during the announcement of the 2011
Campaign goal. Be ready for some new and exciting surprises
while networking with close to 3000 of your closest friends
and colleagues.
The Honey Harvest Festival will be held every Saturday in
September (3, 10, 17 & 24) at Clovermead Honey in Aylmer
(11302 Imperial Road aka Hwy 73). Come and see how honey is
harvested, dip your own beeswax candle, safely see a live beehive opened. View a bee beard demonstration at 2:30 p.m. Don’t
forget the wagon rides, bee barrel train rides, music, animals
and all the fall fun on the Adventure Farm! The farm opens at 9
a.m., with events from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. $8.00 plus tax.
Lambeth Harvestfest, on September 8–11, will be the 33rd
year of the Festival that celebrates Lambeth Community spirit in
“Reasonably priced, fresh,
well-executed Ethiopian cuisine ...”
— Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine
Vegetarian Options • Takeout • Catering
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a great weekend of fun and celebration. Optimist Park, Community Centre & Grounds, London. www.harvestfest.on.ca
The 2011 Mexican Fiesta & Gala, September 14, brings the
sounds, culture and taste of Mexico to Museum London.
An evening of fun, food, mariachi, and fiesta ... a cultural
experience! The Fiesta & Gala encourages individuals from
all ethnic backgrounds to come share in the rich history, art,
music and cuisine of our Mexican/Hispanic community. The
event also serves as a platform for the Hispanic Heritage
Awards, where students of Hispanic background receive from
$250 to $500 in grant money. www.mexicanfiesta.ca
The World Wine & Food Experience comes to London
September 22–24, 2011. Experience vineyards, culinary
samplings, art dealers, microbreweries, tequila lounge,
sculpted ice bar, world-class musicians, and cirque
performers. Local participants include Abruzzi, Blue Ginger,
Braise, Great Hall Catering, Pho Haven, The Only On
King, UWO Somerville House, and White Pomegranate
Catering. Enter to win a weekend away to Napa Valley.
Tickets are available at Centennial Hall Box Office, $39 and
$99 www.worldwinefoodexperience.com
Enjoy Fall on the Farm, October 8–10, at Fanshawe
Pioneer Village (www.fanshawepioneervillage.ca). Watch
as farm families prepare for the coming winter with the
harvest of the corn crop, textiles arts and wood stove cooking.
Thanksgiving Day will be the last day the Village will be open
to the public for the 2011 season. Reserve your Thanksgiving
Dinner at the Pioneer Village Café by calling 519-457-1296.
Go ahead, sleep in.
That’s what brunch is for.
Let our chefs cook for you this Sunday
at the Delta London Armouries,
where your sleep and tastebuds come first.
For reservations, call 519-679-6111 or
visit www.deltalondonarmouries.com
Celebrating
Oktoberfest
Take your appetite for an Downtown London Culinary
Walking and Tasting Adventure with a local epicure as
your guide. Visit the Covent Garden Market, food/kitchen
shops and restaurants with an emphasis on locally sourced
and produced products. Tours run rain or shine, $25.00 per
person. Allow 2 hours and wear comfortable shoes. Groups
welcome by reservation. [email protected].
The Downtown London Dining District Culinary
Adventure is the city’s original and signature culinary/
tasting tour. Visit three restaurants, taste three locally sourced
delights and enjoy a sampling of VQA wine at each location.
As you stroll from one restaurant to the next, learn about
the history of downtown London. This is an approximately
2½ hour walking and culinary tasting tour offered Thursdays
at 7:00 p.m. for groups of six or more. Private tours can be
scheduled for other days and times. Reservations required.
[email protected]
At the thriving Horton Farmers’ Market (St. Thomas),
the food is being seasoned, the wine is chilled and the cider
mulled. They’re putting the final touches on the year-end
Harvest Fest celebration at the market building Saturday,
November 6, from 6 to 9:30 p.m. Of course, there’s lots more
happening before then. Check the calendar online at www.
hortonfarmersmarket.ca/Calendar.cfm
Sept. 23–Oct. 2
Murder Mystery
Dinner Theatre
The Marienbad provides the perfect atmosphere for the
“Crime of Your Life!” as you enjoy a delicious prix-fixe
3-course meal in the circa 1854 fireplace-lit dining room.
$39.99 per person includes the performance from
Mystery Unlimited, salad, main course,
ow for
Book n
coffee/tea, dessert, & gratuity.
mas
Arrive 7:15 pm; Dinner 7:45 pm.
hrist& Dinnetor8s0
C
See our website for schedules.
s for up
heons
Lunc Banquet Room
te
a
v
ri
P
122 Carling Street (at Talbot)
519-679-9940
www.marienbad.ca
“A Taste of Europe”
Open Daily for Dinner
Lunch Monday-Saturday
38
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№ 31
Rich Hunter at The King Edward Restaurant & Pub in Ilderton has turned one of their import taps into a dedicated Ontario
Craft tap, and plans to offer the products from various breweries
for about six months at a time. They are running smaller kegs, to
allow each of the beers a fairly frequent rotation, and will pour the
breweries’ regular line-up as well as seasonal/one-offs. The first
brewery on the plate is F&M, from Guelph.
Grand Bend Aquafest was a huge success in August,
culminating in Purdy’s Great Lakes Chowder
Competition. The judges, led by Oliver and Bonaccini
Executive Chef Anthony Walsh, chose The Schoolhouse
RESTAURANT
EQUIPMENT
& SUPPLY CO.
serving the industry since 1944
Old-Style Service for
the Contemporary Cook
Wholesale Prices on complete lines
of equipment, cookware, china,
glassware, stainless serving pieces
AND MUCH MORE!
New Showroom!
New Uniform n!
Line from Spai
Also New This Year:
Shoes for Crews!
Open to the Public: Mon-Fri 8-5 & Sat 10-2
234 William Street, London • 519-438-2991
[email protected] • www.rescolon.ca
Restaurant of Grand Bend as the big winner this year.
Congrats to Gus for his light apple-and-maple-laced
chowder. (Read more about The Schoolhouse in this issue!)
Honourable Mention and People’s Choice Award went to
The Black Dog Pub’s spicy concoction, which will now
grace their regular menu. The Hessenland Country Inn is looking forward to their
18th annual winemakers dinner and Parkinson’s fundraiser.
The gourmet feast and wine pairings are only part of the
excitement. www.hessenland.com The Stratford Garlic Festival, Saturday and Sunday,
September 10 & 11, will be held at the Old Stratford
Fairgrounds, 20 Glastonbury Drive. $5 per day and Free
Parking. The Festival is in its fifth year and there will be 95
vendors (of which 20 are garlic growers), the Garlic Chef
Competition and the Glorious Garlic Dining Experience.
Leslie Beck, Nutrition Expert, will be featured, along with
other well-known chefs, authors and entertainers. Enjoy the
aromatic array of regionally produced, ethnic and downhome food, catch a cooking demo or two, meet a celebrity
chef, learn the latest culinary trends and garlic-growing
techniques, and purchase garlic, garlic seed and garlic
products to take home. Make a plan to be there because this
kind of fun really stinks! www.stratfordgarlicfestival.com
Celebrate Stratford’s creative food culture as culinary artists,
international award-winning chefs and local artisan food producers are showcased at the Savour Stratford Perth County
Culinary Festival, September 24-25. Spend the weekend
roaming Stratford’s heritage garden and Market Square district — this festival is renowned as one of Ontario’s best!
There’s plenty for food lovers — from the gourmand to
the gourmet. “Ribs in the Square” is presented by Boss
Hogs, the best Canadian BBQ Team, including a rockin’
Saturday night “BBQ, Blues and Brews” party. Meet Chuck
Hughes, Canadian winner of 2011 America’s Iron Chef;
Connie DeSousa, Top Chef Canada finalist; Denis Cotter,
award-winning Irish celebrity Chef; and Jennifer McLagan,
author of Bones and Fat, as well as other culinary experts in
over twenty events.
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Free programming includes the farmers’ and artisans’
market, outdoor live musical entertainment, the Culinary
Stage, Slow Food Taste Pavilion, Our Daily Bread food
documentary screening, a Kids’ Tent, and street performers.
Enjoy delicious local BBQ fare cooked by not-for-profits paired
with Stratford Chefs School students.
The culinary garden party on Sunday afternoon, “Savour
Stratford Tasting,” pairs over 30 chefs and local producers
with the finest VQA wines, craft brews and jazz, all set under
marquee tents along the Avon River. www.savourstratford.com
Visit the Slow Food Perth County market in its new
Market Square location, beside City Hall in Stratford’s
heritage district. On Sundays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., the
market showcases farmers and producers that follow
the good, fair and clean principles of Slow Food. www.
slowfoodperthcounty.ca
A guided pub crawl with a haunted twist! Tour Stratford’s five
historic pubs, including Stratford’s original brewery. Sample a
local micro-brew at each stop and hear the tales and spooky
stories that haunt Stratford’s downtown. Pubs, Pilsners
and Spirits tours are being offered on Friday, October 21 and
Friday, October 28 from 8:00 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Tickets are $25
plus HST and available at www.visitstratford.ca.
Discover the art of pairing Tea and Chocolate on Saturday,
October 15. Surrounded by over 100 loose-leaf teas, you will
be guided through a blissful hour pairing teas with chocolate
and find your favourite pairing. $30 per adult and advance
Your love of all things Italian begins at
The Stratford Farmers’ Market runs Saturdays 7 a.m. to 12
noon at the Rotary Complex - Agriplex, 353 McCarthy Road,
Stratford. www.stratfordfairgrounds com
“Savour Stratford Edible Strolls,” every Friday and Sunday
at 2:00 p.m., depart from the Stratford Tourism office at
47 Downie Street. Your local foodie guide will lead you to a
variety of shops for a tasty sample while sharing the latest
culinary news. www.visitstratford.ca/edible On Saturday, October 15, attend a fundraiser matinee performance
of The Grapes of Wrath with a portion of the proceeds going to
The Local Community Food Centre, an exciting new initiative
in Stratford. Tickets are $75 per person and include a cocktail
reception following the performance, featuring Stratford and area
chefs and restaurants. Call 519-508-FOOD.
Reservations are welcomed up to the day prior for Daily Afternoon Tea at Stratford’s Stone Maiden Inn, served between
12 noon and 4 p.m. Delicate savoury bites and sandwiches will
be offered, along with tempting sweets, cookies, and aromatic
buttermilk scones, soothing and warm, fresh from the oven.
Fine teas will be brewed from a one-of-a-kind selection blended
by certified tea sommelier, Karen Hartwick of Stratford Tea
Leaves. $25.95 plus tax. www.stonemaideninn.com
White Pomegranate
Market Foods & Catering Co.
“An extensive culinary repertoire
with worry-free service,
White Pomegranate makes
the ordinary
39
519 697 8520
extraordinary!”
whitepomegranate.ca
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www.eatdrink.ca
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registration is required. Tea Leaves Tea Tasting Bar,
Stratford. www.stratfordtealeaves.com
2 years of age. Birtch Farms and Estate Winery, near
Woodstock. www.birtchfarms.com
Lyndon Public Fishing is enticing those looking for a
tranquil release from the daily routine or an exhilarating
experience catching all the fish you can imagine. Bring your
own equipment to their beautiful location or rent a rod. Fish
with your choice of worms or lures, and they’ll supply you
with a large net and a bucket for your prize catch! “Keep what
you catch,” and their staff will clean your fish at no extra
charge and bag it. No fishing license required. Petersburg, 9
a.m.–5 p.m., Saturdays and Sundays. $5 for the fisherman, $6
per pound live-weight for rainbow trout, $6 per rod rental, $3
per dozen worms. www.lyndonfishhatcheries.com
Your Local Market Co-operative, at 129 Downie St,
Stratford, is a seasonally-inspired market supporting farmers,
producers and artisans. With an on-site bakery producing
freshly baked bread daily, take-out counter with seasonal
street eats for lunch and dinner, and a full grocery store with
dairy, meat, fruit, vegetables, grains and legumes, they’ve
become a favourite in the downtown Stratford scene. www.
yourlocalmarketcoop.com
Attend Birtch Farms Pumpkin Festival, Saturday,
October 22 and Sunday, October 23. The two-day festival
features pumpkins, wagon rides along the “Apple Tale Trail,”
scarecrow making, a corn maze, pumpkin games, pumpkin
treats, a costume contest, pumpkin gallery, fresh-baked
pumpkin and apple pies, famous “nudge, nudge pumpkin
fudge” caramel apples and much more. $6 per person over
The first “A Taste of Norfolk” — local chefs serve up local
foods. Savour the flavours of Norfolk County foods at 12 area
restaurants. East will feature a Norfolk-only menu for 10 days
beginning Saturday, September 24 to Monday, October 3.
Menus are available on-line prior to the event offering a variety of appetizers, entrees and desserts at various price points.
Ballots will be given to people who order local for a chance to
Photos by Robert Miedema Photography, London
Local Flavours is an afternoon celebration of authentic local
food and wine in Woodstock, featuring finger-food creations
by local chefs, paired with Birtch Farms and Estate Winery
wines on Sunday, October 2, from 12 noon to 4 p.m. www.
birtchfarms.com
Enjoy a gourmet harvest dinner by local chefs featuring
“Ontario’s Garden” delights at the opening of the Norfolk
County Fair & Horse Show. This gala event comes with
special bonuses: meet and greet with celebrity chef Bob
Blumer, VIP Fair admission and parking, VIP prize draws,
including the chance to win a trip to Las Vegas and preferred
seating for the Burton Cummings show, immediately
following dinner. www.norfolkcountyfair.com
QUICK LUNCH
DINNER
GIFT CARDS
SEMI-PRIVATE
DINING ROOM
TAKE-OUT
DELIVERY
•
MENU
3 Courses for
$29 per person
Appetizer, Entrée & Dessert
Plus rice, naan, fresh salad
and vegetable
This is a time-limited offer.
•
?
№ 31
www.eatdrink.ca
41
win a grand prize of a “zip and sip” adventure at Long Point
Eco-Adventures (ziplining) and Burning Kiln Winery.
employed. Although the cheese is already looking great, it will
take three months of aging before it will reach perfection.
Oxfordlicious brings together local chefs, local produce
and visitors. Locally-inspired menus are available at seven
participating restaurants: Elm Hurst Inn & Spa in Ingersoll,
SixThirtyNine, Charles Dickens Pub, Dairy Capitol
Cheese Shoppe and Ody’s in Woodstock, Manse and Niko’s
in Tillsonburg and Quehls in Tavistock.
Get a taste of Oxfordlicious during the month of September and qualify to win some great prizes while discovering
the goodness that comes from local growers. This is an
opportunity to savour numerous restaurants’ set menus, each
focusing on local suppliers (many of which can also be visited
by picking up or downloading a copy of Oxford County’s Buy
Local! map). www.oxfordbuylocal.ca
The Arts & Cookery Bank is celebrating our heritage with
Culture Days 2011 on September 30 to October 2. Nine different events happen over the weekend, such as a Heritage
Photo Crawl, Photo Quilt Workshop, a “Canada-U-Cook”
breakfast featuring local fruits, veggies, eggs and meats,
cooked up by local chefs, growers and producers, and a Festa-Month — a dining event that will celebrate our rich French
Canadian heritage. www.theartsandcookerybank.com
Speaking of cheese, Shep Ysselstein is among a new breed
of regional artisanal cheesemakers in Ontario. Gunn’s Hill
Artisan Cheese, located on Gunn’s Hill close by on Highway
59 in Norwich Township received 1500 litres of Oxford County
milk from Friesvale Farms at the beginning of August. The
milk has gone through a number of processes from pasteurization, to curdling, to fitting curds into moulds, and off to the
salt water tank before the aging process began. At each step,
Ysselstein carefully monitored the progression, making certain
that traditional methods he was taught in the Swiss Alps were
From October 18 to November 5, The Grand Theatre celebrates
the culinary arts with the Canadian premiere of To Master
The Art: The Julia Child Story by William Brown and Doug
Frew. The play follows the life of Julia Child from her arrival in
Paris and her first days at Le Cordon Bleu to the debut of her
cookbook Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Break a leg!
To better spread “The Buzz,” eatdrink is now at facebook.
com/eatdrinkmag and twitter.com/#!/eatdrinkmag. Let
us help you get the word out about your business too. We’ll be
retweeting, posting to our Facebook page, and printing all the
news we can fit in this space. Let’s get better connected! Our
readers want to know, so send us info about culinary events,
fundraisers, and regional news. With BUZZ in the Subject line,
send to: [email protected].
Go ahead. Take a big bite.
Nine Enticing Destinations.
Destinations
One Delicious Region.
,
Meet dozens of our
culinary superstars!
Visit our website to browse culinary packages
that will inspire and recharge you, from romantic
getaways to an escape with friends. Go to:
www.ontariossouthwestculinary.com/packages
OXFORD
ELGIN
S
HALDIM
AND
LAMBTO
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LONDON
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MIDDLE
SEX NO
RFOLK
ISLAND
ONTARIO
SOUTHW ’S
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FROM FA
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CULTURE
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LI
INGWITH
LOCALFL NARY
AVOUR
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ST
ISM GU
Destinatio
IDE
ns. One D
elicious Re
gion.
Your journey to great taste begins at
www.OntariosSouthwestCulinary.com
WWW.LO
ation, resources and links
culinary highlights, visit:
culinary.com/haldimand
bsite on your mobile device by
e right with your mobile phone.
ader to view the site via the barcode
NDONTO
*RTO_1_Cu
linary_C
over.indd
URISM.C
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ARY
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www.Ont
ariosSouth
westCulin
ary.com
Chatham-Kent | Elgin | Haldimand | London | Middlesex | Norfolk | Oxford | Sarnia-Lambton | Windsor-Essex-Pelee Island
15/06/11
6:07 PM
42
www.eatdrink.ca
№ 31
restaurants
Still Tripping the Light Fantastic
Verandah Café Celebrates 25 Years in London
By CECILIA BUY
T
he Verandah has always
been as much about the
party as it is the café. Time
has taken only the slightest toll, but now when they call it a
night, it’s closer to ten o’clock than
two. Twenty-five might not sound old
if you say it quickly, but in this business, it’s a remarkable milestone.
That’s how many years it’s been
since Wally Downham first opened
the doors at the Verandah Café on
Dundas near William Street. After
paying his dues working for others,
he wanted this solo venture to be a
little bit different.
The decor swings from kitsch to
cool. Ultra yellow and vivid tangerine
walls are covered with glazed pottery plates
by Mac Caloren. From the ceiling, swags
of mini-lights are cunningly shaded inside
cheese graters and kitchen gadgets. The
retro rock is aural comfort food for a clientele that probably heard it first time ’round,
The Bar
Verandah Owner Wally Downham (back)
and co-host Steven Moeller
and it keeps the room in party mode as the
volume climbs throughout the evening. If
you head downstairs to freshen up, you’ll
pass a mannequin draped in vintage clothing. Say hello to Priscilla.
Part of Wally’s vision for the Verandah
involved creating the right emotional
atmosphere: no unpleasant temperament in the kitchen and no attitude on
the dining room floor — from paid staff
or paying customers. It takes a special
touch to keep that friendly control working, but he says it’s simple: “It’s all about
having respect.”
As well, he wanted the Verandah to be
a place where people could “unwind.”
And unwind they do! From the beginning,
things could get pretty lively at the Verandah. One evening it got positively rambunctious when a patron upped the ante.
This solid and upstanding member of the
community left the table and returned to
his companions wearing Priscilla’s polkadot dress. And so it began.
“We never encouraged anything,” says
№ 31
The decor swings from kitsch to cool. Ultra yellow and
vivid tangerine walls are covered with glazed pottery
plates by Mac Caloren, seen in the photos above and below.
Wally. “It just happened.” Today the mannequin still stands, but she’s got a box full of
clothes, wigs and accessories. And sooner
or later someone gets into show-time mode,
and the mood spreads.
After a day spent in the kitchen, Wally
moves into the dining room. And he works
the room like the pro that he is. Erase the
term “waiter” from your lexicon. This is one
of your hosts at a busy dinner party where
you don’t know all the other guests
... yet. He’s got a roomful of people
to talk to, but you’ll get looked after.
Relax, have a drink, and check out
the food ...
The bar offerings are straightforward: one beer on tap (Iron Spike,
from St. Thomas), a small selection of
wines (red or white), and the standard
bar rail. The popular cocktail choice is
the Bitch Slap — made here with sour
raspberry liquor, green apple liquor,
“lots” of vodka, and a splash of cranberry juice.
The prix-fixe menu offers an inviting array of appetizers and entrées,
including Cream of Garlic Soup,
Spicy Calamari, stuffed Pork Tenderloin, and Salmon served with a
light but flavourful Mango Dill Sauce.
Also available is a Rack of Lamb, with
Honey Mustard Hazelnut Sauce.
Steven Moeller is Wally’s co-host
www.eatdrink.ca
43
at the Verandah. He came in to help
one day — eleven years ago — and
never left. Between these two, and
beneath the banter and the sometimes apparent chaos, service flows
like a well-choreographed dance. It
helps that the experienced kitchen
staff is swinging to the same tune.
Dinner at the Verandah is by reservation only, and it’s only served
to a full house. If the evening of
your choice doesn’t get booked
up, you’ll receive a phone call and
have a chance to make an alternate
reservation. Eccentric? Yes, but just
another example of the fact that for
Wally, having his own place means
“I can do it my way!”
That’s the environment at the
Verandah Café: convivial, relaxed,
and just a little bit out of the ordinary. Let go of the worries of the day
and unwind a little bit — or a lot!
Verandah Café
546 Dundas Street, London
519-434-6790
E-mail: [email protected]
Facebook: Verandah Cafe
hours: Tuesday to Saturday, from 5:30
CECILIA BUY is a regular contributor to eatdrink.
44
www.eatdrink.
№ 31
cookbooks
How Multitasking Leads
to Mouthwatering
Meals in Minutes
By Jamie Oliver
Review and Recipe Selections by JENNIFER GAGEL
J
amie Oliver is a man who knows great
food, big ideas and a clever turn of
phrase. The Naked Chef persona is
about simplicity in cooking, not at all
about the nudity levels of the cook, and his
“New Food Revolution” is changing the
way we look at processed food. Now Jamie
brings us Meals in Minutes (Hyperion, 2011
$37.99), which doesn’t compromise quality
or taste for speed. It is about being organized,
working smart, and using clever tricks to put
delicious plates of food on the table quickly,
so we have more time to savour the outcome.
Love of food and its preparation has
been a part of Jamie Oliver’s life from an
early age, since he began helping out in his
parent’s restaurant in England at the age of
eight. After attending Westminster Catering
College at age sixteen, Jamie began a food
revolution in Britain with The Naked Chef
and later with Jamie’s School Dinners. His
many book and television efforts led the
British government to publicly commit to
improving the quality of the country’s school
meals. Jamie and his childhood sweetheart,
Jools, live in London with daughters Poppy,
Honey and Daisy Boo, where he continues
his forays into revolutionizing the way in
which we consume and prepare our food.
Meals in Minutes is a welcome and
practical addition to the cookbook shelf.
Not only will it show you how to create
delicious dishes, it will demonstrate how
to create an entire culinary experience of
three- and four-dish meals, often with a
salad and a dessert. Jamie has crafted full
menus of foods that go together beautifully
and presents the recipes in an ingenious and
easy-to-follow way.
Oliver spends quite a bit of time
encouraging organization and planning to
decrease the amount of time spent preparing,
therefore
increasing the
amount of time
sitting and enjoying. The directions go
back and forth from entrée to side dish to
dessert, from skillet to pan to prepping the
next ingredient so that you are multitasking
your way to a mouthwatering result. The
accompanying photos are simple yet
beautiful, encouraging the readers to bring
the pictures to life in their own kitchen.
The culinary influences that shape this
cookbook range from British to Asian,
Mediterranean, and Indian — basically, all
over the world. The vegetarian Curry Rogan
Josh is one of the more ingredient-heavy
recipes, but fabulously complex in taste.
Cauliflower, pumpkin, onions, garlic and
coriander simmered with rogan josh curry
paste until soft and fragrant, finished with
tinned chickpeas and a heap of spinach
stirred through at the end. The result is a
full, rich curry with a thick sauce, perfectly
paired with brown rice and beer.
Meals In Minutes is also inspired by the
traditionally British fare, of course. Want
to cook that roast beef but don’t have a
whole afternoon? Oliver finds a clever way
to divide and cook a fillet of beef in under
30 minutes, and still find time for Yorkshire
puddings, sweet carrots and a peppery
watercress salad. It’s a meal fine enough for
celebrations, without the usual time spent
slaving in the kitchen.
Using every minute wisely, enjoying
yourself, and reclaiming your kitchen for its
original intent is the focus of this book. It
combines Oliver’s classic “fresh food fast”
philosophy with a unique layout of fifty full
meals and step-by-step instructions on how
to have them on the table in minutes.
More than a cookbook, Meals in Minutes
№ 31
The Julia Child Story
www.eatdrink.ca
TO MASTER
THE ART
By William Brown and Doug Frew
CANADIAN PREMIERE
OCTOBER 18 - NOVEMBER 5
An intriguing and often hilarious look at the life of Julia Child,
from her arrival in Paris and her first days at Le Cordon Bleu
to the debut of her cookbook Mastering the Art of French Cooking.
519.672.8800
grandtheatre.com
TITLE SPONSOR
45
46
www.eatdrink.ca
is a meta-recipe for how to make meals
faster in order to live life slower.
For more information on Jamie Oliver and Meals in Minutes,
including the TV show’s listings and schedules, videos and
recipes, go to these links:
www.jamieoliver.com/jamies-30-minutes-meals/
www.channel4.com/programmes/jamies-30-minute-meals
shawmediatv.ca/press/read/?1514
JENNIFER GAGEL is a freelance writer. She can be
contacted at [email protected].
Recipes courtesy of Jamie Oliver's Meals in Minutes.
Curry Rogan Josh
with fluffy rice, carrot salad,
poppadoms, flat bread, and beer.
CURRY
2 onions
1 medium butternut squash
1 small cauliflower
optional: 1 fresh red chilli
4 cloves of garlic
a bunch of fresh coriander
½ a 283-gram jar of Patak’s rogan josh paste
1 400 g tin of chickpeas
100 g prewashed baby spinach
1 500 g tub of natural yogurt
RICE
1 mug of basmati rice
a few whole cloves
CARROT SALAD
a handful of flaked almonds
5 or 6 carrots
1 fresh red chilli
a bunch of fresh coriander
a 2-cm piece of fresh ginger
1 lemon
CHAPATTIS
1 pack of chapattis
turmeric, for dusting
LEMON PICKLE
1 lemon
2 teaspoons mustard seeds
1 level teaspoon (5 mL) turmeric
¼ of a fresh red chilli
1 small dried chilli
SEASONINGS
olive oil
extra virgin olive oil
sea salt & black pepper
TO SERVE:
1 packet of poppadoms
cold beer
PREPARATION:
TO START: Get all your ingredients and equipment
ready. Fill and boil the kettle. Put a large
saucepan on a high heat. Turn the oven on
to 180ºC/350ºF/gas 4. Put the coarse grater
attachment into the food processor.
CURRY: Peel and slice the onions and add to the
large pan with a splash of water and a few good
lugs of olive oil. Carefully cut the butternut
squash in half across the middle, wrap up the
base and put in the fridge for another day. (For
speed I’m only using the seedless neck.) Quarter
the neck lengthways (no need to peel it), then
slice it into 1-cm chunks. Add to the pan. Trim
the cauliflower and remove the outer leaves. Cut
it into bite-sized chunks, and throw them into
the pan. If you want some extra heat, slice up
the chilli and add it now. Crush in the unpeeled
garlic. Finely chop the coriander (stalks and all).
Reserve a few leaves for garnish and add the rest
to the pan with a couple of generous splashes of
boiled water. Add the rogan josh paste and the
tin of chickpeas, with their juices. Season and
stir well, then put a lid on. Cook hard and fast,
stirring occasionally.
RICE: Put the mug of rice into a medium saucepan
with a lug of olive oil and a few cloves, then
cover with 2 mugs of boiled water (use the same
mug you used for the rice). Add a pinch of salt,
then put the lid on and boil on a medium heat
for 7 minutes. Fill and reboil the kettle.
№ 31
CHAPATTIS: Scrunch up a large sheet of greaseproof paper under the tap. Flatten it out, then
layer the chapattis on top, drizzling each lightly
with a little olive oil and a sprinkling of turmeric.
Wrap them in the paper and put them on the
middle shelf of the oven.
CARROT SALAD: Toast the almonds in a small
pan on medium heat, tossing occasionally until
golden. Tip into a small bowl. Wash and trim the
carrots. Grate them in food processor, using the
coarse grater attachment, with the chilli (stalks
and seeds removed), the top third of a bunch of
coriander, and a peeled 2-cm piece of ginger. Tip
into a serving bowl.
CURRY: Check and add a splash of water if it looks
a bit dry. Stir, then replace the lid.
RICE: By now the 7 minutes should be up, so take
the rice off the heat and leave it to sit with the
lid on for 7 minutes. This will let it steam and will
give you beautiful fluffy nutty rice.
CARROT SALAD: Drizzle a lug of extra virgin olive
oil over the salad and add a pinch of salt. Finely
grate in a little lemon zest, then add a good
squeeze of lemon juice. Toss well. Sprinkle over
the toasted almonds and half of the reserved
coriander leaves, and take to the table.
www.eatdrink.ca
47
CURRY: Take the lid off. Do you need to adjust the
consistency at this point? If so, you can stir in a
generous splash of boiled water, depending on
whether you want it drier or wetter. Or mash
up some of the veg for different textures. Taste
and add a pinch of salt, if needed, then add the
spinach and stir through.
LEMON PICKLE: Cut the lemon into eighths, then
deseed and finely slice. Finely slice the red chilli
quarter. Put the small pan you toasted the almonds
in back on to a medium to high heat. Add a drizzle
of olive oil to the pan and the mustard seeds,
turmeric and the sliced chilli. Crumble in the dried
chilli. When everything starts to sizzle, add the
sliced lemon and a pinch of salt, count to ten, then
take off the heat and put in a bowl to cool.
TO SERVE: Tip half the tub of yogurt into a small
bowl. Drizzle over a little extra virgin olive oil
and take to the table with the poppadoms and
the bowl of lemon pickle. Remove the chapattis
from the oven and take them straight to the
table. Transfer the rice and curry into large
serving bowls. Spoon the remaining yogurt over
the curry, sprinkle with the rest of the coriander
leaves, and take both bowls to the table. Crack
open your beers and go for it!
“Please with Ease”
for Thanksgiving
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№ 31
Quick Roast Beef
with Baby Yorkshire Puddings,
Little Carrots, Crispy Potatoes
and Super-Fast Gravy
POTATOES:
500 g red-skinned potatoes
1 lemon
4 sprigs of fresh thyme or rosemary
1 bulb of garlic
YORKIES:
Just under 1 cup of plain flour
1 cup of milk
1 egg
CARROTS
500 g small carrots
2 sprigs of fresh thyme
2 fresh bay leaves
1 heaped tablespoon (20 mL) caster sugar
a pat of butter
BEEF
700-gram fillet of beef
8 sprigs each of fresh rosemary, sage and
thyme
WATERCRESS:
half a red onion
2 tablespoons (25 mL) red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon (15 mL) golden caster sugar
1 100-g bag of prewashed watercress
GRAVY
half a red onion
12 baby button mushrooms
1 heaped tablespoon (20 mL) plain flour
1 small wine glass of red wine
300 ml organic chicken stock
SEASONINGS
Olive oil
Extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt & black pepper
TO SERVE
Creamed horseradish sauce
English mustard
A bottle of red wine
PREPARATION
TO START: Get all your ingredients and equipment
ready. Fill and boil the kettle. Turn the oven on
to 220ºC/425ºF/gas 7, and place a 12-hole shallow
bun tin on the top shelf. Put the fine slicer disc
attachment into the food processor. Put 1 large
saucepan and 2 large frying pans on a medium
heat.
POTATOES: Wash the potatoes, leaving the skins
on. Chop into 2-cm chunks and throw into one
of the large frying pans. Cover with boiling
water, season with salt, and cover with a lid. Turn
the heat right up, and boil for 8 minutes, or until
just cooked. Fill and reboil the kettle.
BEEF: Quickly pick and finely chop the rosemary, sage
and thyme leaves. Turn the heat under the empty
frying pan up to full whack. Mix the herbs together
and spread them around the chopping board with
a good pinch of salt & pepper. Cut the fillet in half
lengthways, then roll each piece back and forth so
they are completely coated in herbs. Add the meat
to the hot empty frying pan with a few good lugs of
olive oil. You must turn it every minute while you get
on with other jobs. Don’t forget to seal the ends.
№ 31
Roasts | Chops & Steaks | Tenderloin | Ribs | Sausage | Bacon & More!
CARROTS: Tip the carrots into the saucepan and just
cover with boiling water. Add 2 sprigs of thyme, a
couple of bay leaves, a good pinch of salt, a splash
of olive oil, and 1 heaped tablespoon (20 mL) of
sugar. Cook with a lid on until tender.
YORKIES: Put the flour, milk and egg into the
blender with a pinch of salt. Blitz, then quickly
and confidently remove the muffin pan from the
oven and close the door. In one quick movement,
back and forth, drizzle a little olive oil in each
compartment, then do the same with the batter
until each one is half full (any remaining batter
can be used for pancakes another day). Place in
the top of the oven, close the door and do not
open for 14 minutes, until golden and risen.
POTATOES: Check that the potatoes are cooked
through, then drain and return to the same frying
pan. Leave on a high heat and drizzle over some
olive oil. Add a pinch of salt & pepper, speed-peel
in strips of lemon zest, and add 4 sprigs of thyme
or rosemary. Halve the bulb of garlic widthways,
squash each half with the back of a knife and
add to the pan. Toss everything together, then
roughly squash down with a masher. Toss every 3
minutes or so, until golden and crisp.
GRAVY: Reduce the heat under the beef a little.
Peel the red onion half. Finely slice in the food
processor. Add half the onion to the beef pan
with a splash of olive oil, the other half to a salad
bowl. Rinse the mushrooms in a colander and
slice in the processor, then add to the beef pan.
Stir everything around and remember to keep
turning the beef regularly for 5 minutes.
ifts!
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riety
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Conveniently Vacuum-packed
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Gluten and MSG Free
CQA Certified
Online ordering with FREE DELIVERY
www.thewholepig.ca
OR Phone Orders: 519-851-3327
WATERCRESS SALAD: Add 2 tablespoons of red
wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon of caster sugar and a
good pinch of salt & pepper to the onion bowl.
Scrunch with one hand. Add 4 tablespoons of
extra virgin olive oil. Empty the watercress on top
and take to the table, but don’t mix until serving.
GRAVY: Remove the beef to a plate. Drizzle with a
little olive oil, then cover with foil. Stir 1 heaped
tablespoon (20 mL) of flour into the pan. Add a
small glass of red wine and turn the heat up. Boil
down to nearly nothing, then stir in 300 ml of
chicken stock and simmer until thick and shiny.
TO SERVE: Drain the carrots, return to the pan,
toss with butter and take to the table. Turn the
potatoes out onto a platter. Smear 2 spoonfuls
of horseradish sauce and 1 teaspoon of English
mustard on to another platter. Quickly slice the
beef 1 cm thick, using long carving motions.
Sprinkle over a pinch of salt & pepper from
a height, then pile the beef on top of the
horseradish sauce and mustard. Add any resting
juices to the gravy and serve in a jug. Toss and
dress the salad quickly, then get the Yorkies out
of the oven and take them to the table, and tuck
in with a glass of wine.
Welcome
to Our
Table
113 Dundas St @ Talbot
519-679-1970
Breakfast or Lunch
Tuesday−Saturday
7:30am−3pm
Sunday: 9am−2pm
Friday Knights: 5−7pm
www.billysdelirestaurant.ca
50
www.eatdrink.ca
№ 31
restaurants
The Fresh Flavour of Oxford Heritage
The Elm Hurst Inn & Spa in Ilderton
By BRYAN LAVERY
A
t its peak in the 1800s,
there were 98 cheese
factories in Oxford
County. The first
cheese factory in Upper Canada
was located just outside Ingersoll. In 1872, James Harris built
the Gothic Revival style mansion that has been transformed
into The Elm Hurst Inn.
The James Harris Cheese
Factory opened in 1865 and a
year later was the site of the
creation of a 7,300-pound
block of cheese. The giant
cheese was made by local producers to
promote Ingersoll’s cheese industry and
was exhibited at the New York State Fair
in Saratoga and in England. Their unique
marketing idea worked: Canadian cheese
became a hot commodity and by 1871 the
grounds feature several
elaborate fountains.
county was the dairy capital of Canada.
After the Harris family pioneered the
cheese industry in Oxford County, they later
added commercial apple orchards and the
apple export business to their holdings. In
fact, the vaulted buffet room is the original
apple shed. Elm Hurst was the stately family manor house for nearly a century. The
last Harris heir sold the property in the
mid-1970s, and the house was transformed
into a popular dining establishment that
opened in 1979. A modern addition was
added to the rear of the original structure five years later, with the 49-room
№ 31
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51
Chef Michael Davies is a strong advocate
of organic and locally grown food.
Elm Hurst Inn & Spa being built in 1988
on the 33-acre property. The Inn is able to
accommodate its diverse guests with nine
Nine distinct and well-appointed
dining rooms offer rich comfort
and stately ambiance.
distinct dining rooms on the main and second floors of the original mansion.
The refurbished adjoining 19th-century
Carriage House has become a popular location for weddings and corporate events. A
buggy discovered on the property during
renovations now sits in its rafters.
In 2009, London property magnate,
Shmuel Farhi, purchased the Elm Hurst
Inn and began a
major transformation of the property
and Inn by renovating and restoring
the mansion and its
grounds to its former
splendour. Today,
this mansion stands
grand and dignified
in a bucolic setting. New lighting,
furniture, landscaping and an opulent
copper roof was
added to the building. The beautifully
manicured gardens
also feature a white
marble gazebo that
overlooks a pond
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A perfectly grilled certified Angus beef steak (above)
and the fresh green salad (below) speak to The Elm
Hurst’s dedication to serving local fare. While there is
always some seafood on the menu as well, a monthly
Seafood Buffet allows Chef Davies to pull out all the
stops in an oceanic indulgence.
with a fountain and a natural waterfall.
Local is very important to Chef Michael
Davies and his staff, even when it comes to
V.Q.A. wines and local beers. The Elm Hurst
Inn received 2008 VQA Restaurant Award of
Excellence presented by the Wine Council
of Ontario. This award rewards licensees
who are embracing local Ontario VQA
wines, and inspiring their patrons with substantial VQA wine lists, tasting menus, VQA
wines by the glass, winemaker’s dinners
and staff training.
Chef Davies is an advocate of organic and
locally grown food committed to innovative,
rural-fresh cuisine. Chef sources ingredients from local and regional growers and
producers to serve the finest and freshest
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Oxford County and regional produce, cheese and meats, including
prime Ontario beef.
Chef Davies apprenticed at
Benmiller Inn, Goderich and has
worked at The Church Restaurant
and Key Stone Alley Café in Stratford, the London Hunt and Country Club, as well as Vancouver’s
Convention Centre. Elm Hurst Inn
& Spa Executive Chef since 1996,
Michael Davies received classical training at Toronto’s George
Brown College. He holds an Interprovincial Red Seal and is a certified Chef de Cuisine with Honours
Standing.
Those looking for a relaxing sip
and enjoy a drink or light repast
are welcome to discover the James
Harris room, located just off the
Inn’s lobby. With its Cathedral
ceiling, large picture windows and
private second-floor balcony overlooking the valley it is the perfect
place to spend a leisurely afternoon with a glass of VQA wine and
the Inn’s Local Artisanal Cheese.
An equally enjoyable pastime is
the large patio for al fresco dining
— an idyllic gathering place during warm weather months when
the gardens are in full bloom.
415 Harris Street, Ingersoll
519-485-5321
www.elmhurstinn.com
hours of operation
Breakfast daily 7–10:30 am
lunch Monday to Saturday 11 am–4 pm
Dinner Monday to Saturday 5–9 pm
Sunday brunch 10:30 am–2 pm
Sunday Buffet 4:30–8pm
BRYAN LAVERY is a regular contributor to eatdrink.
№ 31
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53
BEER MATTERS
beer matters
Finding the Light
Micro and Craft Brewers Are Redefining the Light Beer Genre
By THE MALT MONK
T
his summer was a scorcher! Just
what we dream of in mid-February.
I hope you eatdrink readers took the
opportunity to lounge on a shady
café patio on at least a few of those hot days
and sample some of the many fine crafted
and imported lighter seasonal beers. As I write
this, caught in this summer’s unabating heat, I
find myself gravitating toward some favourite
light beers. My idea of a light beer may differ
from the accepted commercial definition. To
my sense of brewing aesthetics, “light beer” is
an all-natural, traditionally crafted beer that is
light in character and mouth feel but robust in
flavour, lower in gravity (under 5% abv), and
quenching without being filling. Light beer
needn’t be defined by the bland, uninspired,
mass-produced watery offerings from the corporate brewers. The big multinational brewers
have failed miserably in producing a true light
beer or understanding the light beer genre. It
is important to understand that despite corporate ad spin, most corporate high-volume
“light” and lower alcohol beers are within a
few calories of most micro-brewed all-natural
light beers. The traditional micro and craft
brewers do a better job of filling the need for
truly flavourful but light all-natural beers.
So, in this issue I thought I’d let you in on
the crafted light beers (under 5%) that have
been staple residents
in my beer fridge
throughout the summer.
First off, lighter brews
can be either lagers or
ales and, surprisingly,
not necessarily pale in
colour.
One that stood out
from others this summer
was Duggan’s #5 Sorachi
Lager (LCBO # 242164).
It was a welcome sight
at the LCBO, since it was
previously only available
at the now-closed Duggan’s pub. Sorachi is
a micro-brewed rendition of the early “dry”
lager style invented in Asia that since has been
corrupted by domestic corporate brewers. This
lager, which is light in character, alcohol and
calories, is full of warm cereal flavours with
the spicy-lemony snap of Sorachi hops in the
finish — and it has the distinct dry crispness of
the early Asian dry brews. I’ve
been happily sipping away at
a supply of this I save for the
really hot days.
Another beer that found its
way into my beer fridge this
summer was Muskoka’s
Summer Weiss, (LCBO #
238212). This is an improved
seasonal version of Muskoka’s early Hefe Weissbier.
This has more depth, yet
maintains a soft wheaty-biscuity-banana flavour profile
with a subtle hop balance
and a peppery crisp dry finish. A great light
wheat ale under 5% abv for summer sipping.
Two local light ales I was constantly
ordering on tap this summer were Grand
River Brewing’s Mill Race Mild and 1913
Traditional Ale. The Mill Race Ale is a tawny
mild ale, full-flavoured but light in alcohol —
an ideal session beer for
warm days. The 1913
Traditional is GRB’s
interpretation of
the Kolsch-style
lagered pale ales.
It’s unique in that it
has authentic delicate
bready-biscuity cereal
tones, a light fruitiness
like apple or pear, and
the quenching Kolsch
character. But the naturalsource hard water used by the brewery puts a
distinctly sharp mineral crispness in the
54
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finish. Both very
quaffable beers, and
both light in alcohol
and calories.
I also have to mention my fondness for
Neustadt Springs
Brewery’s mild summer bitter. Andy Stimson, co-owner of the
brewery with his wife
Val, and head brewer,
calls this Neustadt
Springs Mill Gap Bitter — so look for this
on the tap handle.
Mill Gap is a mild burnished gold sessioning bitter produced for
draft or cask consumption in the summer. A
solid malt spine provides a solid caramel malt
undertone to set off the great fuggles hopping
and the pungent fruity esters. Light-bodied,
mild character, 3.8% abv, clean, lightly dry
finish and extremely drinkable. I have been
quaffing pints of this wherever it shows up
(usually at Gambrinus or the King Edward).
One pleasant surprise in the LCBO summer import release was Dark Star Brewing’s
“Sunburst” Ale (LCBO # 223818). Sunburst
is a light golden ale just perfect for summer sipping from an
award-winning UK
microbrewer. Light
in alcohol and body,
this is a refreshingly
crisp beer of considerable depth of flavour.
Pungent floor-malted
Maris Otter barley and
a blend of Cascade,
Styrian and Challenger
hops make a deeply
flavourful ale in a light,
№ 31
crisp summertime format. I keep a few of
these in the fridge for defeating the heat of
lawn mowing in plus-30-degree weather.
A beer light in alcohol and body needn’t
be light in colour. I found myself drinking
the occasional Thuringia black beer this
summer, when my palate craved a dark
roasty beer but not the thick body associated
with most dark brews. Köstritzer Schwarzbier (LCBO #198374) fit the bill and provided
a lower-alcohol, light-bodied roasty dark
thirst-quencher.
So, I lightened up my beer choices this
summer and have given you a few of my personal recommendations. And even though
summer is over, there are still lots of good
light craft beers out there for you to seek out.
Malt Monk’s Pick ‘O’ the Month
Spaten Münchner Hell (LCBO 249433)
Those who follow this column know I’m a
German-lager devotee. That’s why I’m elated
that Spaten (Munich’s original
all-natural lager brewer) has
quietly shown up in the can
section of the LCBO. Spaten
Münchner Hell is the original,
and arguably best, Munich pale
lager. It’s full-flavoured and
superbly balanced between
bready Bavarian malt sweetness
and noble hop depth, with a
crisp, clean, lightly dry finish and
a distinct lemony hop snap. Cans of Spaten
Hell were always on ice in my cooler on this
summer’s outings. We can only hope InBev
decides to put Spaten’s world-famous Bock
and Oktoberfest Marzen on LCBO shelves.
THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond, a
passionate support of craft beer culture.
Our new craft beer inspired,
Ontario Harvest menu is
here and brimming with
tasty dishes like this
pumpkin pasta.
Need we say more?
511 Talbot Street | p. 519.433.7737
Sun-Tues 11am-12am, Wed & Thurs 11am-1am, Fri & Sat 11am-2am
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56
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№ 31
wine
Crop Rotation:
From Tobacco Plants to Grape Vines
The New Face of Norfolk County
By RICK VANSICKLE
PORT DOVER, Ont. —
T
his area was once paved in gold, its
wide swaths of land covered in the
tall, leafy tobacco plants and the
drying kilns that defined Norfolk
County. About an hour’s drive from London
on the north shore of Lake Erie, Port Dover
was a booming farm community, with lavish
estates and signs of wealth at every corner of
this idyllic and pastoral region.
Such was the influence of the tobacco
farmers, in those glory years, that every inch
of roadway — from concessions to county
roads — was paved so the truckers hauling
out their precious cargo had a comfortable,
smooth ride to market.
Those heydays are long gone for tobacco,
at least for most of the farmers who made
their living growing a product that more and
more people are shunning and governments
are taxing out of existence.
The landscape is still dotted with some
lush rows of tobacco, but only a fraction of
what was the “tobacco belt” remains in Norfolk County.
But there is a definite
sense of renewal in this
farming belt. Tobacco is
being replaced with soybeans, corn, wheat, rye,
alfalfa, ginseng, orchard
fruits, field fruits, and all
manner of livestock.
And out of it all,
Ontario’s newest wine
region has emerged, as
yet undefined, but moving ahead at full speed
as farmers and entrepreneurs come together to
forge a new, healthier
path to prosperity.
The push is being felt in far-flung corners
of the county, down unassuming concession
roads, and in the unlikeliest of places. This is
no Niagara, no, not yet. But that this is becoming an important destination is evident by the
quality of wines being produced here..
Driving the bus for this pioneering journey
is the Burning Kiln Winery at Turkey Point
near the small town of St. Williams, about a
30-kilometre drive from the pretty lakeside
town of Port Dover. Seven partners came
together and saw potential for the former
tobacco fields. They made a large investment
in vineyards and in a spectacular winery,
and brought in winemaking expertise from
Niagara to kick-start the industry in Norfolk
County. Burning Kiln isn’t the first to make a
foray into wine here, but it is the first to raise
the bar in terms of making 100% regional
VQA wines that have the quality to draw
visitors to this start-up wine region and to
encourage others to follow a similar path.
The winery opened its doors for the first
time this spring, selling a brand-new portfolio
of wines as unique in flavour as is the vision of
a destination winery and surrounding eco-playground.
The Burning Kiln name
reflects Norfolk County’s past
history of growing tobacco
and the huts that were used
to dry and cure the product.
The idea from the beginning
was to incorporate aspects
of the tobacco trade into the
winemaking process. An old
original kiln is the beacon
that guides visitors into the
5,200-square-foot modern
winery constructed from the
frame of the original pack barn
where the tobacco stripping
occurred. And as a bonus,
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from the patio we see beautiful vistas of Lake
Erie and sand beaches in the distance.
Andrzej Lipinski, a winemaker from Niagara, was brought in to share his expertise in
crafting wines using an old Italian tradition
of drying grapes to give them concentration
and complexity.
The Burning Kiln Winery’s tasting room
The winery has 22 acres of land under
vine and has decided to grow traditional
grapes such as Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir,
Merlot, Petit Verdot, Riesling, Chardonnay,
Pinot Gris and, perhaps not so traditional,
Savagnin (a variety of white wine grape with
green-skinned berries). All the red wines
and most of the white wines undergo some
degree of kiln-drying in the process. Drying
the grapes can turn lean wines into riper,
more concentrated wines.
Tasty pairings at the Burning Kiln Winery
If you go, try these wines (only available at
the winery or online):
Burning Kiln Rosé 2010 ($18) — A lot happening in this wine. It’s 100% South Coast Cabernet Franc that’s barrel-fermented using 10%
kiln-dried grapes. Great nose of strawberries,
spice and cherries. It has bite on the palate
with the red fruits lifted by sweet spices.
№ 31
Burning Kiln Pinot Noir 2010 ($35) —
Made from 100% kiln-dried grapes that were
sourced 50% from the estate and 50% from
Niagara. The nose shows barnyard, black
cherry, sweet herbs and tobacco, cocoa and
floral notes. It’s rich and layered on the palate with concentrated red fruits, obvious
tannins and oak stylings.
Burning Kiln Cabernet Franc 2010 ($23)
— A lovely nose of cherry, cedar, smoke and
spice. Nice depth of flavour to go with smoky
fruits, plum, tobacco and a touch of roasted
herbs on the finish.
Burning Kiln Winery, 1
709 Front Rd, St. Williams
www.burningkilnwinery.ca
About twenty minutes away, in a faraway
corner of the county, the Florence Estate
Winery emerges. It’s a beautiful spot, nestled among vineyards and surrounded by
acres of spectacular Carolinian forest. This
is an unpretentious winery, but has a lovely
dining room and tasting area. The owners,
Margaret and Terry Marshall, got out of the
tobacco growing business in 1988 and sold
off most of the land they had accumulated,
but kept the original farm and land and
decided to plant grapes and start a winery.
“We wanted to do something that would
leave a mark on the family,” says Margaret.
Florence Estate Winery grows about
fourteen acres of vines, planted to Chardonnay, Marechal Foch, Baco Noir, Gewurztraminer, Vidal, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Lucy
Khulmann (a French-American hybrid). It
opened its doors to the retail store in 2008,
but “we don’t see a huge amount of traffic
down this road,” says Margaret. “But we do
have a loyal biker following,” she says of the
many motorcyclists who pass by en route to
Port Dover. “Unfortunately, they can only
carry two bottles of wines with them.”
Try these wines (only available at the winery; for info go to their website):
№ 31
Florence Vidal 2009 ($12) — A crisp
summer sipper with fresh apple and citrus
aromas. It’s tart and zippy on the palate with
bright acidity and citrus/apple goodness.
Florence Marechal Foch 2007 ($14) — A
meaty, savoury nose with rousing red fruits
and spice. Good verve on the palate with
pepper, blackberry and cherry flavours and
decent spice.
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Driving northeast through the quiet rural
countryside, past farms and quaint tiny
towns east of the main centre of Simcoe, you
will find the rustic winery called Villa Nova.
Phil Ryan, a retired civil servant who
has no ties to the tobacco industry and has
always been an amateur winemaker, has
some of the oldest vines in Norfolk County,
dating back to 1996.
Villa Nova Estate Winery,
R.R.#4, 1449 Concession 13, Simcoe
www.villanovaestatewinery.ca
He says he got serious about winemaking
in 2002, built his winery in 2006 and started
selling wine in 2007.
“It’s fairly dramatic what’s going on here,”
says Ryan. “The potential to grow grapes here
481
RICHMON D STRE E T
5 1 9. 4 32 . 40 92
RE SE RVATION S RECOMME N DE D
D I N E @ GAR L I C SO F LO N DON .COM | WWW.GA RLIC SOFLON DON .COM
has been improved with global warming.”
Ryan farms ten acres of grapes with a dizzying array of varieties from Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Vidal
and Baco Noir to forty other varieties, many
of them seldom-planted hybrid grapes.
Try these wines (only available at the winery; for information go to www.villanovaestatewinery.ca):
Villa Nova Pinot Gris Blush 2010 ($14)
— A really nice rosé style wine with apple,
peach and melon aromas. It’s an off-dry
wine with juicy-creamy fruits and just a
touch of spice.
Villa Nova Dore Blanc 2010 ($10, 85
points) — A blend of Vidal, Muscat and an
undisclosed hybrid; created specifically
to go with Lake Erie perch and pickerel. It
is gorgeous in that regard with crisp, tart,
bone-dry lemon-lime fruit and bright acidity. Just add the fish.
Enjoy!
RICK VanSICKLE is a freelance wine writer who lives in
Niagara with his family. He publishes a website dedicated to
Niagara wines (www.winesinniagara.com) and is a wines and
spirits contributor to several magazines.
60
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№ 31
spotlight
Letting the Secret Out of the Bag
The Bag Lady Variety and Take Away, in London
by BRYAN LAVERY
photos by SHELLEY LONG
T
Nutrition meets gourmet at The Bag Lady, where breakfast and lunch are served daily. A simple facade offers
only a hint of the uniquely funky interior (below).
interesting house-made soups, sandwiches,
burritos, seasonal salads, made-from-scratch
desserts, and brown-bag lunches-to-go at the
back counter.
The café has a kitschy, quirky retro 1950s
and 60s vibe, Formica tables and chrome
chairs, a plush red velvet couch, and matching chairs. There is an unobtrusive water
closet in the middle of the premises. The turquoise walls have shelves lined with nostalgic food products (such as Cheez Whiz and
Chef Boyardee), vintage books, LPs, board
games, cookbooks and various knickknacks
for sale. The walls are lined with clotheslines
sporting vintage-inspired aprons produced
by a small local business called Weezi,
which designs clothing for gals with an independent sense of style.
Chef Deb Murray, an alumna of both the
University of Western Ontario and the Stratford Chefs School, brings to The Bag Lady
plenty of experience from many area restaurant kitchens. Murray’s resumé includes
stints at the at The Westover Inn in St. Marys,
On The Fork, Custom Cuisine Catering,
Idlewyld Inn, and more recently, as head
Photo courtesy of SHELLEY LONG www.forestcityfashionista.com
he Bag Lady is a funky retro café,
variety store and take away located
in the heart of the Woodfield
neighbourhood at the corner of
Pall Mall and Maitland Streets. Owner Jane
Beattie’s initial vision was to sell nutritious, gourmet brown-bag lunches to busy
downtown London clients. She soon realized that she needed premises. Beattie had
a vision for her brown-bag lunch business
and purchased the old Maitland Variety,
which quickly metamorphosed into The Bag
Lady Variety and Take Away. Beattie moved
upstairs over the storefront, which has
allowed her to be totally hands-on.
The Bag Lady quickly became a unique
neighbourhood destination, and its followers
and success can be attributed mainly to great
word-of-mouth referrals raving about the
quality of the food and the nostalgic nature of
the décor and ambience. The store/café also
features a street-side garden patio for al fresco
dining. Beattie and Chef Deb Murray prepare
61
Photo courtesy of SHELLEY LONG www.forestcityfashionista.com
№ 31
The Bag Lady customers are encouraged to
make themselves at home on the plush red
velvet furniture, or grab a bite to go.
chef at Abruzzi Restaurant under Karen
Brown’s tenure. For the past four years, Murray has also been a part-time instructor at
Fanshawe College within their Tourism and
Hospitality Department.
An all-day breakfast menu is available
on Saturdays and Sundays. The café serves
fair trade coffee, espresso and cappuccino sourced from Las Chicas del Café. The
Bag Lady Variety and Take Away is truly
an original. Keeping with the retro theme,
the Bag Lady also sells Pop Shoppe’s tasty
sodas, which originated in London in 1969
and have recently been re-introduced into
the mainstream market with success, after a
twenty-year hiatus.
The Bag Lady Variety and Take Away
474 Pall Mall St. (at Maitland)
519-642-4222
Twitter @bagladyvariety
hours of operation
monday to friday: 7:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.
saturday and sunday: 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
BRYAN LAVERY is a well-known food writer, chef, culinary
tourism proponent and business consultant.
SHELLEY LONG has shared her Bag Lady photos from
her blog, www.forestcityfashionista.com, a celebration of eyecatching style, art and culture in the Forest City.
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in Woodstock
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Dundas Street East at Ontario Street
62
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№ 31
the lighter side
Cannery Row
By SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD
M
y long-standing relationship
with “canning” or “putting up”
has been both tumultuous and
varied. Seduced by food dehydrators on three a.m. infomercials and globes of
jewel-toned jams in specialty shops, I have
purchased all the tools of the canning trade
not once, but three times. (In between I donate
them to the Goodwill in despair, only to buy
them back again later.) But despite a childlike
determination to succeed, my track record is
not impressive. I admit to being slightly worried about consuming my own canning, fueled
by a niggling fear of botulism and doubts
about the efficacy of the medieval-sounding
boiling water bath. Perhaps I’m just not the
pioneer type. It matters not, because my Gaia
side always wins. As soon as I see the gleam of
a sleek eggplant, breathe in the heady perfume
of pink peaches, or hold a sun-warmed tomato
in my hand, smooth as a baby’s heel…
Well, you get the idea.
Part of the problem with canning for me has
always been excess. Overcome by vegetable lust
at the market — and especially at closing time
when everything is being dramatically reduced
— one can end up being faced with a bushel of
something that doesn’t seem nearly as appealing once you get it home. A good example of
this would be the piccalilli that I decided to
make one year. I adore this relish of chopped
pickled vegetables and spices, and it reminds
me of my mum making it in northern England.
But no one in my family shares this sentimentality, nor do they particularly like piccalilli.
They care even less to be regaled with tales of
piccalillean history, how the Brits wanted to
replicate the tastes they had experienced in
the subcontinent of India, and that really, it’s
especially good with cold ham. But undeterred,
I went on to make my own. Successfully. But
as I lined the shelves with my jars in all their
golden mustardy glory, it began to occur to me
that a few tablespoons of piccalilli every so often
was not going to make much of a dent in my
bounty. (And did I mention that no one in the
family likes ham much either? Hmmm.)
My eldest
brother and
his stunningly beautiful
wife have raised canning to an art
form and I bow to them. In an area of their
basement lovingly referred to as “the air
raid shelter” (it’s actually more like you’ve
taken a wrong turn and somehow ended
up at Costco), all manner of canning treats
abound. Peach Blush jam (just a hint of
raspberry), several types of pickles, including
an old-fashioned bread-and-butter variety,
Pears in Cointreau, lime marmalade, and —
wait for it — homemade mincemeat, which
they make for their Christmas pies extraordinaire. Their food dehydrator also gets regular
action making virtuous meat jerky.
Of course, their jars are all attractively
labeled by hand, they all match (no empty
Miracle Whip jars here with unpleasant
paraffin plugs), and some are even wearing
those cute little fabric caps. (Rupert Bear and
his mother probably have something very
similar to this going on at their place.) Suffice
it to say that my brother would be horrified to
know that I recently bought some glass jars
with salmon leaping on the sides just because
I liked the size — not too big but a bit larger
than jelly jars — and they suit me fine. But
of course, I have never really embraced the
notion of designer canning myself because
I have accepted that many of my efforts may
ultimately conclude with that unsettling tableau of myself, a spatula and the toilet. And I
leave that with you.
Naturally, I have exaggerated this tale of
woe somewhat. I do have successes that I
hold close to my heart — strawberry rhubarb jam, pesto, salsas, and a very fine raspberry vinegar that does get decanted into
fancy bottles. I just hope that in time I will
be able to preserve not only the peaches but
also my belief in myself.
SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD is a freelance writer who also
works in the London Public Library system. She lives in London with
her teenage sons and a floating population of dogs and cats.
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