march 2015 issue
Transcription
march 2015 issue
1 Pretty T Girls March 2015 The Magazine for the most beautiful girls in the world A publication of Pretty T Girls Yahoo group 2 In This Issue PAGE Editorial by: Barbara Jean Keeping An Open Mind by: Gerri Dee Neuroscience Proves What We Already Knew New Feature Announcement Everything You Never Knew About Mascara Makeup Tips For 8 Common Problems Hair Removal Options Let’s Talk Wigs by: Karen Part 1 The Adventures of Judy Sometimes Modhnoiri By Barbara Marie Tasi’s Musings Humor Angels In The Centerfold Mellissa’s Tips Color Pairing Chart 11 Fashion Trends That Keep Coming Back A Guide to Skirts 8 Ways to Look Better With Fashion Tasi’s Fashion News How To Dress A Large Bust Lucille Sorella From The Kitchen—Recipes & Cooking Tips The Best Cooking Tricks We Ever Heard The Gossip Fence Shop Till You Drop Calendar 3 4 6 7 8 10 20 22 28 30 33 39 40 43 48 49 51 52 53 56 59 62 65 70 82 94 3 Leelah Alcorn An Editorial by: Barbara Jean On December 28th 17 year old Leelah Alcorn was killed when she stepped in front of a semi truck. A few days later a suicide note was found posted on a social media site. Leelah came out to her parents when she was 14. Her parents, devote Christians, took her out of school, took away her phone and her computer and sent her to a reparative therapist for conversion therapy. It was only when Leelah insisted to her unaccepting parents that she was a boy that they allowed her any social contact outside of church. The transgender community of course was outraged, but sadly religious liberties mean that no sort of criminal charges will be filed against Leelah parents or the conversion therapist. In our nation there are only 3 states that prohibit conversion therapy for someone who is under the age of 18. When the child is born the parents automatically press that imaginary blue or pink button and proceed to raise their child in a manner that is socially acceptable for a boy or a girl to be raised. They buy clothes and toys that are considered to be appropriate for the sex the child was born. No doubt they also have dreams of their son being a football or basketball star or their daughter being a Miss America. Daddy will teach his son things like how to throw a ball or how to fish or something like that and Mommy will be teaching her daughter things like cooking and fashion and other things that she will need to know once she gets married. Then suddenly the monkey wrench is thrown into everything. Their son says “You got it all wrong, I’m a girl not a boy” or the daughter will say “I am a boy not a girl” As someone who is transgender and was a parent I somewhat know what my own feelings would be if my own son came out to me as being transgender. Much evidence shows that we are born this way and so I would wonder was it something in my genes or DNA that caused him to be transgender. Due to the fact that he was well aware of me being transgender it would make me wonder if my being transgender influenced him, was he trying to follow in my footsteps? It would not be a question of accepting, but more of a question of why. But what about the parent who is cis? What would their feelings be? What would their reactions be? In the case of Leelah Alcorn their feeling were heavily influenced by their religious beliefs, but what about when religion does not play a part in their thinking? I can imagine there would be a lot of confusion, the thinking that it was some sort of phase, but what about when the they realize that their child is serious? No doubt education and the parents social interaction will play a large part in how they feel and react. The older a child is 4 the harder I would think it would be for a parent to understand, but acceptance is very much important. I did have the chance to talk with a couple of parents who’s child had come out to them at later stages. In the case of the one who was MtF and came out to her mother at about age 9 or 10 there was a bit of a struggle at first, but once she was allowed to live has her true self the mother did say she saw a big change in her daughter being able to sleep at night. The mother not only accepted and supported her daughter, but also insisted that the school treat her daughter as a girl and even was willing to fight to insure that she was treated as a girl. Another parent of a FtM who came out around age 13 or 14 did not seem to have any problems once they understood about their child being transgender. I feel sad for Leelah parents in that while they could have had a daughter rather than a son, they now have totally lost a child, a child that cannot be replaced. Hopefully they will realize that their religious teaching was wrong and they have now paid a heavy price. Reparative, conversion, ex-gay therapy has been shown to be dangerous. It is hoped that a nationwide law will bring this dangerous practice to an end. Keeping An Open Mind Gerri Dee Sometimes you just don't expect what is going to happen to be very favorable. Just when I think that all was lost, I have a conversation with my youngest daughter. During this conversation we discussed what her mother's thoughts were and she said that she would be willing to mediate a meeting of the minds between my wife and me. My youngest daughter being the more progressive of the two daughters and more understanding always surprises me at times. Everybody says she's just like me and now she's headed down the same career path that I had. No she's not a female to male cross-dresser, she has regular boyfriends which she makes sure to change out from time to time. She actually knew about my cross-dressing five years prior to me telling her about it and was not at all surprised that we had the conversation. She's been involved in a group called "ALSO" which is a support group for the younger generation of GLBT in this area. Aaah, my time to surprise her. I told her that I've been out and about looking for a psychiatrist or psychologist that deals in transgender situations and is familiar with the problem. That as a last resort I went down to ALSO and stopped to talk to the lady counselors inside the building. They gave me the names of two support groups that meet there the first and third Saturdays of the month. she said that the first meeting was just for the transgendered people to meet together at that location. That to join that group I would have to be vetted by the psychologists that runs it. So I made contact with the psychologist After getting her name and address and agreed to a meeting date and time. 5 So on the appointed date and time I got all dressed up and when my wife asked what I was doing and where was I going. I told her that I was going to meet with the psychologist and see about joining in the group. She never flinched and I just went about my business. Well when I went out to meet the psychologist I got the address wrong and after roaming around for 15 minutes I finally got hold of her and she decided that it was too late for us to meet and we agreed to meet another day. On my return home my wife was working outside emptying out our camper and I stopped and told her about my stupidity not realizing that I had set off a new lighting bolt in her. When it did dawn on me that I started a new pain in her butt I just decided to stay away from her and let it cool down. Later that night while decorating the Christmas tree my wife starts discussing this conversation that my daughter and myself had. She said I heard you & Kalyn talking in the backroom and was curious about what was being said. I told her about the mediation offer. And then we just went on to discuss my situation. we talked about the incident at the camper when I returned home and she said she took that as a direct flaunt and really got upset. I then told her that there was no direct intent, I was not trying to flaunt anything, but I just wanted to make the simple statement about my stupidity and being late. As the discussion continued I mentioned that everything that I told her that been the truth that she had not been able to catch me lying about anything. I told of there's no reason the lie because I've laid everything out in front of you. We talked about my dressing and where it was leading and I explained to her that I was in that percentage of cross-dressers that are happy with both sides of the fence, That I have no intention of going for the operation. Mostly because at my age it just seems like a senseless waste of money that we could use elsewhere. I also said that everything that I'm doing is out in the open and I'm not trying to hide anything. She actually said she'd be willing to sit down and have this mediated session. Holy Moly I almost fell off the ladder. This is the woman who did want to see here do anything about my situation. Unfortunately our oldest daughter Victoria entered the house at that time and the conversation broke off. The next day we're just kind of poking around the house, cleaning things up trying to get it ready for Christmas and I wasn't paying much attention to what she was doing but my wife disappeared, Sometime later, she came back carrying an object in her hands that look like a fancy bottle of perfume dressed in a tutu. I looked at her and she reached out with the bottle and she pulled the top on it, and she rubbed the cap on my arm and started smelling it. I looked at her like she lost her mind, but with a smile on my face, I asked her what are you doing? She just closed up the bottle turned around and she walked away from me. She said, I just wanted to see how it would smell like on you.I never did make anything of it at the time. The night before Christmas we all went to bed and as I laid down I felt a lump under my pillow. I reached under there and pulled out a fancy wrapped present. I opened it up and it turned out to be a bottle of Betsey Johnson perfume complete with the TuTu.. She was there while I opened it up and tried it on. I told her I liked it.\very much, gave her a smile and will gave her a big kiss and called it a night. A couple of days later I decided that I needed to go get my nails done because they were 6 really really ragged from working with acid during the week. So I got up and started getting ready. She asked where I was going? I told her to go see my nail technician and I proceeded to get dressed, nothing fancy just skirt and blouse and heels. I took off, got my nails done made one stop at Walmart and then headed home and unfortunately had to put Gerri Dee away. I did notice that there was none of the usual resentment in her attitude or actions that I usually got from her when I dress that she wasn't around. I just thought that maybe perhaps we crossed a bridge. I guess the moral of the story is just to say that maybe the impossible is possible. You just have to be a little patient and work at it one bite at a time. I for one never thought that she would ever give any kind of acceptance like this. I'll keep working at it, I'm determined that we will find a common ground for this and have something else in life that we can share. Neuroscience Proves What We've Known All Along: Gender Exists on a Spectrum Ever wonder about the brain's white matter microstructure diffusivity? Don't know what the hell we're talking about? Well, start paying attention . . . because it may be important in determining our gender identity. Earlier this month, the Medical University of Vienna issued a press release announcing that "the very personal gender identity of every human being is reflected and verifiable in the cross-links between brain regions," with distinctions specifically in what's known as brain "white matter." Translation: We now have some proof of a neurological distinction between gender identity and biological sex. Says the report: "While the biological gender is usually manifested in the physical appearance, the individual gender identity is not immediately discernible and primarily established in the psyche of a human being." Led by Georg S. Kanz of the University Clinic for Psychiatry and Psychotherapy, the study was composed of 23 trans men, 21 trans women, 23 cis women and 22 cis men. Researchers used a type of MRI ("diffusion-weighted magnetic resonance imaging" is the proper term, should you ever want to sound impressive during a dinner party) to measure diffusion of particles across brain matter. Cis women had the highest diffusivity -- which means (bear with me here) that particle movement in white matter brain regions was greatest for this group, followed by trans men. Trans women had lower movement than the former, with cis men having the least. There is some early evidence, then, that science is catching up with something many of us already assume, and for good reason: Gender identity exists on a scale, rather than in narrow dichotomized groups. In essence, trans people had brain chemistry approaching the middle of the gender spectrum -inherently different from their biological sex and closer to their identified gender. For example, a trans woman has significantly different brain movement than a cis man, despite having the same biological 7 sex. Moreover, trans men and trans women were different from each other, implying that the brain shows a wide range of gender based differences, rather than simply male or female. While we shouldn't run wild with this research quite yet, it's an important finding -- and one supported to some extent by past work as well. More From The Annals Of Gender Identity Research A 2010 study found similar results comparing just trans men with cis men and women. Yet another study found a similar pattern, but in differences in blood flow between genders. However, researchers often contend that if hormone therapy is involved, it could influence such brain chemistry. For example, someone who has had hormone therapy may have very different results (likely more similar to their gender, rather than sex) in brain composition than someone who has not (the Vienna study did take hormones therapy into account). Furthermore, some research shows that gender identity and sexuality are interrelated. In these studies, sexual preference was an important factor in brain chemistry, even within a subgroup of, say, trans men. Specifically, there are brain-based differences between trans men who are attracted to women and trans men who prefer men. It's probably not a great idea to make massive jumps in what this data actually means -- all it really can confirm is that there may be some brain-based evidence to support that gender indeed exists on a spectrum. But beyond the brainy jargon and particle-meshing matters, it is, if nothing else, cool to know that these issues are being studied at the forefront of neuroscience research. The press release says, "As the brain is responsible for our thoughts, feelings and actions, several research institutions worldwide are searching for the neural representation of gender identity." Stay tuned ya'll. New Feature Do you wear wigs? If you are one of those who has not been blessed with the ability to have a beautiful set of locks, check out the first of a 5 part series “All About Wigs” By Karen of FemmeFever. Over the next few months Karen will discuss all you need to know about wigs. Do you ladies like to cook? Starting with this months issue we will have a section of recipes. Some have asked for this and here is a place for you to share all those secret family recipes that you have. Come on, we know you really want to share them. Post them in the file section of our yahoo group, or send them direct to me [email protected] This is a new feature that is being added to your Pretty T Girls Magazine. 8 Everything You Never Knew About Mascara Dianna Mazzone Mascara might just be the most polarizing beauty product of all time. If it doesn’t work for you, you’ll toss it, tell all your friends never to buy it, and pretty much rue the day it was ever created (yes, clumpy lashes can evoke some serious emotion). But, when you find a mascara you love, it’s a whole different story. You’ll buy it in multiples, talk it up to your pals, and become a loyal user for years—if not life. Clearly, there’s a whole lot going on in these tiny tubes. What makes one mascara stand out from the pack? Is the trick in the application? And, while we’re at it, what’s the best brush for mega-volume? To get these answers and more, we turned to Nicole Masson, vice president of global product development for M.A.C. Cosmetics, who let us in on some little-known facts about everyone’s favorite lash-enhancer. Read on to become a bona fide master of mascara. It’s the spaces between bristles that make one brush work better than another. If you’ve been looking to the head of the wand to determine the efficacy of your mascara, you’re on the right track. But, be prepared to whip out your magnifying glass for a true indication. “It’s more about the spacing between the bristles,” says Masson. “If you have a wide space between every bristle, you have more opportunity for a lot of product to go on your lashes.” That in mind, the wider the space between bristles, the more volume and overall oomph you’ll achieve. Mason notes that the bristles also need to be paired “with a formula of the right thickness, otherwise you’ll end up with something too clumpy.” Americans love voluminous lashes. “The name of the game in the U.S. is volume,” says Masson, who develops products for MAC globally. “You have curl, separation, and length as secondary benefits, but what everybody wants is volume.” That’s why, according to Masson, it’s up to consumers to dig a little deeper when mascara shopping. “What kind of volume is it? Is it butterfly volume, is it super-mega volume, is it feathery?” (Yes, these are the technical terms used in the trade.) Determining what the difference means for your lashes involves a little bit of experimentation. Which leads us to… Even product developers go through trial and error. If you’ve yet to find your perfect mascara match, fear not—even for the pros, the process can be hit or miss. Masson and her team essentially mix and match brushes and formulas in order to achieve a high-performing product. “What we do is we take ten brushes, ten formulas and try different combinations. Once you find something that works, then you start doing some tweaks. You make the formula thicker, you make the brush fibers shorter or longer,” she says. But don’t let the playful nature of product development fool you—it takes a whole lot of hard work to find the perfect combo of formula, brush, and bristles. “We spend around three years working on each mascara,” says Masson. 9 Comb-style mascaras exist, and they’re ideal for perfectionists. If you’re all about achieving a picture-perfect lash look—think symmetrical and separated—a comb-style mascara brush might just be your best bet. “Comb wands are made in molds, so they’re the same every single time. It allows for an extremely clean and symmetrical separation, but still provides volume,” says Masson. “With natural fiber brushes, the bristles are twisted and with that process, you’ll have a very slight variation from brush to brush.” You’re using your curling mascara wrong. Sure, some mascaras are already formulated to add a little flip to your lashes, but they’ll really work their magic if you add a little elbow grease. “Use the curved brush to push up the lashes,” says Masson. “If you go a little bit slower as you apply, while simultaneously pushing the curved brush against your lashes, you’ll get extra lift as the mascara starts to set.” When in doubt, think Christmas. Take note, mascara newbies. Though Masson suggests shopping from a benefit perspective (if you want extra length, look for a product that touts elongation), if you’re just starting your search, a good place to begin is with a Christmas treeshaped brush. “We call it a Christmas tree because it’s tapered at the top and wider at the bottom,” says Masson. “It’s an all-around great brush because, since the bristles are longer at the bottom, you can use those to really build in a lot of product. Then, you can use the thin end as a separator to get into your inner and outer corner lashes.” It’s no wonder that, according to Masson, the Christmas tree brush is the most popular in the world. There’s a reason why your favorite mascara is your favorite. “Your eyelashes are just like your hair,” says Masson. “There are so many different textures and like a hair regimen, everybody has something different that works best for them.” Yep, there’s science behind why the mascara your best friend raves about might fall flat for you. “It’s a very individualized process,” continues Masson. But hey, that’s half the fun, right? 10 Makeup Tips for 8 Common Problems By Maura Fritz Two top-notch makeup artists helped Real Simple readers find the answer to their makeup conundrums—in their own cosmetic bags. Cosmetic Solutions Eight women, eight common makeup issues—well, nine, if you take into account that the women had all invested in makeup that ended up frustrating them to the point that they rarely used it. What they wanted: easy cosmetics routines, new tricks, and solutions to their particular makeup problems. Enter makeup artists Melissa Silver and Tanya Rae, who were given two directives: Each routine they created could take no more than 15 minutes—enough time for a finished look, but not so long that the women couldn’t do the routine before dashing to work. And the two artists should use the readers’ own makeup, supplementing it only when necessary. For their “Before” shots, all of the women arrived at the photo studio with their makeup on as they normally do it. Silver and Rae started each makeover, once they’d removed any makeup, by applying moisturizer: Silver used Joanna Vargas Daily Hydrating Cream ($75, joannavargasskincare.com) and Rae likes Desert Essence Daily Essential Defense Lotion SPF 15 ($19, amazon.com). And with the exception of one makeover candidate, Ivy Pittman, who has naturally curly lashes, they both used an eyelash curler before applying mascara. Silver likes Laura Mercier’s ($16, lauramercier.com), while Rae used the Shu Uemura Eyelash Curler ($20, shuuemura-usa.com). Help! I Want to Wear Makeup, but I Want to Look Natural! Before: Anu Menon, 35 An accountant and mother of two from New Jersey, Anu kept her makeup minimal (“Literally a quick smear of lipstick and then the same lipstick as blush”) because she feels that she doesn’t apply cosmetics well. “Most of the time I don’t know what colors work,” she says. Her goal: a makeup routine that allows her to look like she’s put-together but “not trying too hard.” What Rae used of Anu’s: Maybelline EyeStudio Color Plus Eye Shadow Green With Envy 40 palette ($10, walgreens.com). The Color Workshop palette ($33, amazon.com). Maybelline Volum’ Express the Falsies Mascara in Blackest Black ($7, ulta.com). What she added: MAC Face and Body Foundation in C6 ($33, maccosmetics.com). MAC Select Moisturecover concealer in NW30 ($18, maccosmetics.com). Laura Mercier Loose Setting Powder ($35, lauramercier.com). 11 After: Anu Menon For someone who would rarely wear makeup—never mind experiment with it—Anu fully embraced the addition of foundation and eye shadow, happy to learn how to play up her eyes with warm browns and ready to dive back into her makeup palette to try other tones. Her new strategy adds about 10 minutes to her morning routine: “This definitely takes more effort and time but nothing that can’t be possible with a little planning and, of course, practice,” says Anu, who adds: “I love the results. Definitely makes me look more pulled-together.” How-Tos: 1. Using fingers, apply foundation, then blend with a damp makeup sponge. 2. Brush on taupe shadow from the Maybelline palette. 3. Using an angled brush, line the upper lids with the dark green color from the palette, “smooshing” the color, says Rae, into the top lash line. 4. To warm up the eyes and create definition, apply slightly shimmery bronze color from the Color Workshop palette in the creases of the eyelids. 5. Curl lashes, then brush mascara on the top lashes. (Skipping the lower lashes will look more natural, less “done.”) 6. Lightly line the outer halves of the bottom lids with the dark green shadow. 7. Dab concealer under the eyes. 8. Apply shimmery pink blush from the Color Workshop palette. 9. Brush loose powder over the face to set the look. Help! I Need to Look More Professional Before: Elizabeth Jamieson, 34 Though Elizabeth’s makeup bag held a healthy amount of products (she likes to browse makeup counters and regularly buys when a gift with purchase is involved), she admits that she almost never wears any of them. Her usual routine consists of mascara, a bit of lip color, and a swipe of pressed powder. But Elizabeth recently landed her dream job—managing the brand-new Serena & Lily store in the Hamptons area of Long Island—and realizes she has to up her game. “The environment is business casual chic, with an emphasis on chic,” says the mother of one. “The pressure is on to represent the brand.” What Silver used of Elizabeth’s: Estee Lauder Pure Color in Ivory Slipper and Smoky Ember ($21 each, esteelauder.com). Lancôme Le Crayon Khôl in Black Coffee ($26, lancomeusa.com). Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer in Fawn ($43, lauramercier.com). Clinique StayMatte Sheer Pressed Powder in Stay Neutral ($22, clinique.com). Brenda Christian Universal Brow Definer ($18, brendachristian.com). Lancôme Définicils High Definition Mascara in Black ($27, lancome-usa.com). Clinique Bottom Lash Mascara ($10, clinique.com). Lancôme Blush Subtil Palette in Rose Flush ($42, lancome-usa.com). Clinique Chubby Stick Moisturizing Lip Colour Balm in Two Ton Tomato ($16, clinique.com). 12 What she added: Laura Mercier Eye Basics in Buff ($25, lauramercier.com). Chanel Éclat Lumière Highlighter Face Pen in Medium ($40, chanel.com). Common Problems After: Elizabeth Jamieson What does Elizabeth think of her new pumped-up but professional look? “I feel natural but more put-together,” she says. “[Melissa] gave me the confidence to try more looks and step out of my comfort zone.” Two key tips she picked up: to use primer on her eyelids (it works not only as a base shadow but to brighten the eyes and help eye makeup stay on longer; it can also act as a shadow on days when Elizabeth wants to keep her routine pared-down but polished) and to use a small makeup brush to soften the color under her eyes. “I was lining my eyes straight,” says Elizabeth. “But smudging the shadow a bit makes my eyes look bigger.” Though she tends to reserve eyeliner for evenings out, her new lipstick is a daily must, she says: “Two Ton Tomato has become my favorite go-to lip color.” How-Tos: 1. Brush primer over the lids. 2. Apply eye shadow in Ivory Slipper just under the brows and at the inner corners of the eyes to brighten the skin, act as a highlighter, and add some dimension to the eyes. 3. Line the upper lids as close as possible to the lashes with pencil. Using a small brush, smudge the liner a bit at the corners of the eyes, extending the natural line of the eyes to add drama. 4. Apply tinted moisturizer. 5. Dab highlighter under the eyes, down the bridge of the nose, in the cleft of the chin, and above the brows. 6. Using a big, fluffy brush, dust pressed powder over the face. 7. Fill in brows with pencil. 8. Under the eyes, use a small brush to apply Smoky Ember eye shadow; the line should be thick but diffused and soft. 9. Curl lashes; coat with mascara. 10. Apply blush. 11. Color in lips. Common Problems Help! I Don’t Know How to Play Up My Eyes Before: Ivy Pittman, 55 “I have good-looking skin and eyes, but I really need to play them up!” says Ivy, a saleswoman and an aspiring novelist from New Jersey. Her normal makeup routine—foundation (or bronzer in the summer), blush, eyeliner and eyebrow pencil—was, she says, “not complicated, just boring.” It was also, perhaps, a little too uncomplicated, which may be a cause of her dissatisfaction. One crucial eye-highlighting tool missing: mascara. 13 What Silver used of Ivy’s: Anastasia Beverly Hills Illumin8 Eye Shadow Duo in At Chateau ($23, anastasia.net). MAC Eye Shadow in Saddle ($15, maccosmetics.com). Jordana Glitter Rocks Retractable Eyeliner Pencil in Black Rocks! ($3, jordanacosmetics.com). Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick in Golden ($42, bobbibrowncosmetics.com). Bobbi Brown Sheer Finish Loose Powder in Sunny Beige ($36, bobbibrowncosmetics.com). NYC Classic Brow/Liner Pencil in Dark Brown ($1, newyorkcolor.com). Bobbi Brown Lip Gloss in Petal ($24, sephora.com). Bobbi Brown Lip Liner in Dark Chocolate ($22, bobbibrowncosmetics.com). Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge for Lips & Cheeks in Rose ($25, bobbibrowncosmetics.com). What she added: Laura Mercier Eye Basics in Peach ($25, lauramercier.com). MAC Extended Play Gigablack Lash Mascara ($16, maccosmetics.com). After: Ivy Pittman “Who would have known? Something as simple as mascara!” says Ivy about her new look. While the ramped-up, eye-focused routine Silver created for her involves more products and steps than she was used to (“I find it easy but it takes me about 20 minutes as I take caution in applying the makeup correctly,” says Ivy), she likes the results, and “the fact that I have [almost] everything is an incentive.” And though she’s still getting used to the process (and prefers her usual gold lipstick), she’s experimenting more with makeup—and using mascara daily. How-Tos: 1. Brush primer across the eyelids and up under the brows. 2. On the lids and in the creases, brush on the bronze shade from the Anastasia eye shadow palette. 3. To help minimize wide-set eyes, apply a second, darker color (Silver used eye shadow in Saddle) over the entire creases. 4. Line the top lids with pencil; smudge it slightly. 5. Lightly run a dampened makeup sponge over the face to apply foundation. Dab some on under the eyes, too. 6. Using a big, fluffy brush, set the makeup by lightly dusting the face with loose powder. 7. Fill in brows with eyebrow pencil. 8. Line the lower lashes with eye-liner pencil. 9. Brush on mascara. 10. Color lips with lip gloss. 11. Line the upper lip with pencil (when you have a natural lip line, as Ivy does on the bottom, you don’t need liner). 12. Pat blush on the high point of the apples of the cheeks, above the eyebrows (to give face and skin tone a lift), and a tiny bit on the bridge of the nose. This will add warmth and color: “Foundation takes away color to even out the skin tone, then you have to add some back,” says Silver. 14 Common Problems Help! I Need a Quick but Polished Routine Before: Jessica Aguiar, 35 About to return to work after giving birth, Jessica, a Connecticut attorney and mom to three girls, was “nervous about pulling off a beautiful makeup routine appropriate for a professional office while getting all of us out the door to work, school, and day care.” She also felt that she was on repeat, buying the same colors (purples and gold/ browns) over and over, and was looking for something new. Her ideal regimen would take 20 minutes—tops. “I don’t have time for an intricate routine,” she says. “I need a simple but grown-up style.” What Rae used of Jessica’s: Arbonne Perfecting Liquid Foundation Broad Spectrum SPF 15 in Soft Blush ($42, arbonne.com). MAC Eye Shadow in Texture, Twinks, and Sketch ($15 each, maccosmetics.com). Clinique Lash Doubling Mascara in Black ($16, clinique.com). Clinique Blushwear Cream Stick in Glow Blush ($21, clinique.com). MAC Eye Brow Pencil in Lingering ($16, maccosmetics.com). Neutrogena Healthy Skin Pressed Powder in Light 20 ($13, amazon.com). MAC Sheen Supreme Lipstick in Can’t Resist ($16, maccosmetics.com). MAC Lip Gelée in Saplicious (no longer available). What she added: L’Oréal True Match Concealer in Fair/Light Neutral ($9, lorealparisusa.com). MAC Eye Kohl in Teddy ($16, maccosmetics.com). MAC Pigment in Naked ($21, maccosmetics.com). Common Problems After: Jessica Aguiar After doing the makeup routine on her own for a week, Jessica says, “it’s very easy to follow and I was pleased I was able to do the majority of the look with things that were already in my bag. My absolute favorite thing I learned was how to blend my eye shadows to make my eyes pop, especially on days when I am tired from being up all night with the baby. It definitely makes me look more awake and I have received tons of compliments.” While she’s learning the steps, Jessica is finding that the full routine is taking too long to do daily, but she does her eye makeup faithfully (skipping lining the corners: “I just ended up with smudged eyeliner”) and loves the blush stick. “The overall look,” she says, “is more polished.” How-Tos: 1. Apply foundation; blend with a damp makeup sponge. 2. Apply concealer to eyelids, then under the eyes in an upside-down triangle; blend with fingers. (This will help brighten the under-eye area and create a little contour on the face.) 3. To create a quick, 15 soft smoky effect and add depth to the eyes, apply pencil in short, little strokes on the outer corners of the upper eyelids. Blend with a round contour brush. 4. Brush eye shadow in Texture onto the creases of the lids and the outer corners. 5. Apply a light dusting of loose powder over the lids: A subtle touch of shimmer will make the eyes pop. 6. Line the upper lashes and the outer half of the lower lashes with pencil. To set the liner and give it an extra boost of color, use an angled brush to trace over it with eye shadow in Twinks and in Sketch. (Blend shadows into the outer corners of the eyes for more drama.) 7. Curl lashes, then brush on mascara. 8. Apply a bit of Cream Stick on the cheekbones, forehead, chin, and tip of the nose—anywhere the sun would hit naturally, which lights up the face. Blend with fingers or a makeup sponge. 9. Fill in brows with pencil. 10. Blot the T-zone and the sides of the nose with pressed powder to reduce any shine. 11. Finish with lip color. Help! I Don’t Know How to Play Up My Makeup With Glasses Before: Violaine Gonzalez, 46 A coordinator for a major accounting firm, Violaine, the mother of two grown sons, restricts her makeup most mornings to a BB cream, mascara, and lipstick. “I really don’t know how to apply makeup correctly and I’m afraid to look silly doing it!” she says. On her wish list: to learn how to master makeup, to create a flawless and finished look in under 15 minutes, and to find eye makeup that is workappropriate but distinctive enough to make her eyes noticeable under her glasses. What Rae used of Violaine’s: Kat Von D True Romance Eyeshadow Palette–Saint ($36, sephora.com). MAC Eye Shadow in Swiss Chocolate ($15, nordstrom.com). Clinique Quickliner for Eyes Intense in Intense Charcoal ($15, clinique.com). Clinique High Impact Extreme Volume Mascara in Extreme Black ($19.50, clinique.com). Garnier Skin Renew Miracle Skin Perfector BB Cream in Light/Medium ($13, ulta.com). Sephora Collection Colorful Blush in Cinnamon Spice ($14, sephora.com; color no longer available). Clinique Butter Shine Lipstick in Apple Brandy ($15, clinique.com). What she added: Laura Mercier Eye Basics in Wheat ($25, lauramercier.com). MAC Eye Kohl in Teddy ($16, maccosmetics.com). YSL Touche Éclat highlighter ($40, yslbeautyus.com). Lancôme ‘Blush Subtil’ Shimmer Delicate Oil-Free Powder Blush in Shimmer Mandarin Sky ($30, nordstron.com). Common Problems After: Violaine Gonzalez “Wow,” says Violaine, who loves that “you can tell I have makeup on even with my glasses and it doesn’t look like too much.” The warm, slightly smoky look that Rae created for her brightens her eyes, making them look big but not overdone, utilizing products that 16 she owned but never used. But Violaine equally appreciates that she now knows tricks that will play up her eyes even when she is pressed for time (brown shadow on the lids, a lighter shade in the creases, white shadow on the brow bones to highlight, dark brown as a liner) or extremely pressed for time (curl lashes, put on mascara, and go). In fact, for Violaine, learning to properly apply mascara was the most (literally) eye-opening tip: “Curling my lashes and then applying mascara by starting at the base and wiggling up can make a huge difference.” How-Tos: 1. Brush eye primer across the eyelids. 2. To make eyes appear bigger and pop under glasses, apply eye pencil on the corners of the eyelids in short strokes. Blend upward with a round contour brush. 3. Brush buttercream-colored shadow from the Kat Von D palette over the lids, to the creases. 4. Stroke eye shadow in Swiss Chocolate lightly over the creases and outer corners of the eyes. 5. To add brightness, brush on Sunny shadow from the Kat Von D palette, starting from the inner corners of the lids and working up to the creases. 6. Line the upper lids and the outer half of the lower lids with pencil, making the liner just a bit thicker at the ends of the lids. 7. Apply dark brown Caravaggio shadow from the Kat Von D palette over the liner with an angled brush to add depth. 8. Curl lashes, then stroke on mascara. 9. Apply pearly white Heavens shadow from the Kat Von D palette just under the brow bones to highlight. 10. Using an angled brush, apply Caravaggio and Bookworm, a pearlized brown, from the Kat Von D palette along the lower lash lines and connect to the top in the corner, to give the illusion of an elongated eye. 11. Apply highlighter under the eyes and in inner corners to brighten. 12. Apply BB cream to the face to even out the skin tone. 13. Brush Cinnamon Spice blush on the forehead, nose, chin, and cheekbones. 14. Dot Shimmer Mandarin Sky blush on the cheeks, blending upward. For a little extra pop, add a touch to the center and the creases of the eyelids. A peachy-pink in the creases has a hint of sexiness. 15. Finish with lipstick. Help! I Don’t Know How to Pick Colors Before: Claudia Rose, 61 “I have had a lifelong struggle to find makeup products and techniques that work,” says Claudia (“Grandma Cookie” to her 12 grandchildren). “My skin tone is somewhat olive and somewhat light—a difficult combination to work with.” The New Jersey resident has rosacea, too; she says her skin tone “never stays the same color during the day.” In addition, she never seemed to buy the right colors, she says, and wanted makeup in hues that were flattering and more modern. In fact, Silver found some of that in Claudia’s bag. (Claudia is wearing her own top.) What Silver used of Claudia’s: Clinique Colour Surge Eye Shadow Duo in Twice the Spice and Coffee Shop ($20 each, bloomingdales.com). Pür Minerals 4-in-1 Liquid Foundation in Blush Medium ($36, purminerals.com). Lancôme Effacernes Waterproof Protective Undereye Concealer in Camée ($30, lancome-usa.com). Clinique lipstick in Mauve Crystal (no longer available). Clinique Blushing Blush Powder in Cupid ($21, clinique.com). Body Shop Bronzing 17 Powder in Medium Matte (no longer available). What she added: Hourglass Veil Mineral Primer SPF 15 ($18, sephora.com). Laura Mercier Eye Basics in Peach ($25, lauramercier.com). MAC Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder ($24, maccosmetics.com). Ben Nye Eye Brow Pencil in Taupe ($5, stagemakeuponline.com). Clinique Lash Power Mascara in Black Onyx ($16, clinique.com). Lancôme ‘Le Lipstique’ LipColoring Stick With Brush in Sheer Raspberry ($25, nordstrom.com). Common Problems After: Claudia Rose “Melissa showed me quite a few tricks to enhance the look I wanted,” says Claudia, who credits Silver with teaching her how to play down her rosacea, choose the right mascara, and apply foundation correctly (pat it on rather than rub it in). Plus, “she showed me how to apply the eye makeup in a way that highlighted my eyes, yet the procedure is quite simple and quick,” says Claudia. “I feel younger, prettier, and perkier! This can all be achieved in about 10 minutes, and I am thrilled with the results.” How-Tos: 1. Apply primer to face. 2. Brush Eye Basics primer across the lids, up to the brows. 3. In the creases of the lids, brush on the darker shade from the Twice the Spice palette. 4. Dampen an angled brush, then use it to line the upper lids with the darker shade in the Coffee Shop palette. Press the brush into the eyelids, pushing it up to slightly diffuse the color. 5. Brush the same shadow into the corners of the eyes to give them a lift. 6. Dab on foundation. 7. Apply under-eye concealer. 8. Set makeup by brushing on finishing powder. 9. Fill in brows with pencil. 10. As close to the lash line as possible, line the lower lids using the same powder and technique as on the upper lids. 11. Curl lashes, then coat with mascara. (Use a gel-based mascara, which is smudge-resistant, if your eyes tend to water, as Claudia’s do.) 12. Line lips with pencil, then fill in with lipstick, using a brush, for a pretty but crisper look. 13. Brush on blush, but because the redness of rosacea tends to become more noticeable on the cheeks as the day goes on, restrict it to the tops of the cheekbones. 14. For a healthy glow, brush bronzing powder on at the hairline, temples, jawline, bridge of nose, and neck. Help! I’m Stuck in a Makeup Rut Before: Elizabeth Osterhoudt, 54 Elizabeth, who handles social media marketing and Web communications for entrepreneurs and small-business owners, told Real Simple that she has been following the same multistep makeup routine “for so long I can recite it in my sleep.” The New Jersey resident estimates that she’s been using the same colors and/or brands “for about 30 18 years.” Silver helped her shake things up—a bit. “A subtle, incremental change is better,” she told Elizabeth. “A radical change will freak you out!” What Silver used of Elizabeth’s: Amway Artistry Eye Colour in Truffle ($12, amway.com, color no longer available). Clinique Cream Shaper for Eyes in Chocolate Lustre ($15, clinique.com). Mary Kay Day Radiance Cream Foundation in Antique Ivory ($16, marykay.com). Bobbi Brown Corrector in Light Bisque ($23, bobbibrowncosmetics.com). NYX Eyebrow Cake Powder in Blonde ($6, nyxcosmetics.com). Mary Kay Sheer Mineral Pressed Powder in Ivory 1 ($16, marykay.com). Mary Kay Mineral Cheek Color in Shy Blush ($10, marykay.com). MAC Lip Pencil in Whirl ($15, maccosmetics.com). What she added: Laura Mercier Eye Basics in Flax ($25, lauramercier.com). Clinique Lash Power Mascara in Black Onyx ($16, clinique.com). Clinique Vitamin C Lip Smoothie in PearFection ($29, amazon.com). Common Problems After: Elizabeth Osterhoudt True to her word, Silver made only small corrections to Elizabeth’s regular makeup, but they had big impact. “I added eye primer to my routine,” says Elizabeth, listing the tips she picked up. “It makes a difference in how long my eye shadow lasts and gives my skin tone a consistent look. Melissa switched out my usual taupe eyeliner for a chocolate one, which made a big difference in how my eyes look. Wetting the makeup sponge helps the foundation glide on and blend easier. Using the eyelash curler opens up my eyes.” At first, she says, the new routine seemed a bit cumbersome (“I’m not a makeup girl, so I fumble around”), but now she has it down cold. “I’m still using the same amount of time, but I’m getting results that are 10 times better.” How-Tos: 1. Brush primer across the eyelids. 2. Brush Truffle eye shadow in the natural crease of each lid, then extend the shadow to the outer corners of the eyes and onto the upper portions of the eyelids. “This will give more warmth and shape to the eyes,” says Silver. 3. Line upper lids with pencil, drawing it as close to the lash lines as possible. 4. Dab on foundation, then, using a damp sponge, blend into skin, including under the eyes, with additional dabs where more coverage is needed. 5. Dab corrector under the eyes, at the outer corners of the eyes, around the mouth, and at the outer corners of the nose: anywhere there’s redness. 6. Fill in brows with Cake Powder, using small, quick strokes. 7. Dust face with pressed powder. 8. Add eye pencil to the bottom lash lines. 9. Curl lashes, then stroke on mascara. 10. Apply blush on the upper parts of the cheeks; brushing it up toward the sides visually “lifts” the face. Dust a bit at the temples, too. 11. Line the lips with pencil, then finish with lip color. 19 Help! I Need to Streamline My Routine Before: Jesse Jordan, 27 Jesse, who works in digital marketing in New York City, was hoping to trim down the time she devoted to doing her makeup: at least 30 minutes every morning. But she was reluctant to cut any corners that meant she would need to reapply her makeup later in the day. Beyond that, she’d just chopped her hair into a bob, so she was craving an equally crisp makeup look, maybe to experiment with colors. Rae subtly tweaked her routine, shortcutting it to save time and introducing a new nude lip color. What Rae used of Jesse’s: Maybelline SuperStay 24HR Concealer in Medium Beige ($8, maybelline.com). Maybelline EyeStudio Eyeshadow Quad in Pink Persuasion 80 ($10.50, drugstore.com). e.l.f. Studio Compact Blush/Bronzer ($3, eyeslipsface.com). Maybelline Illegal Lengths Fiber Extensions Washable Mascara in Blackest Black ($9.50, drugstore.com). Maybelline Dream Smooth Mousse Cream Whipped Foundation in Natural Beige 240 ($10, drugstore.com). Sonia Kashuk Crème Blush in Rosey 02 ($10, target.com). Maybelline DreamMatte in Sand Medium ($8.50, maybelline.com). What she added: Maybelline ColorSensational Lip Gloss in Luminous Latte ($8, drugstore.com). After: Jesse Jordan Though Jesse’s look didn’t change substantially—with the exception of the nude lipstick Rae swapped in—she learned to reorder the way she puts on her makeup: Under-eye concealer, for instance, goes on after her eye makeup so she won’t have to redo it if she messes up her shadow or mascara. That, plus a few new techniques (e.g., priming her eyelids so that her shadow lasts longer), shaves off time not only in the morning but throughout the day, since she doesn’t need to reapply her makeup as often. Come the evening, the look can easily be transformed with a few simple additions, eliminating the need for Jesse to take off her makeup and start from scratch if she is going from day to night. And that means even more time saved—and a problem solved. How-Tos: 1. Apply concealer to the eyelids; like a primer, it will help keep makeup intact. 2. Using an angled brush, apply the black shadow from the palette along the top and bottom lash lines. 3. To warm the eyes, apply bronzer from e.l.f. Studio compact to the creases, then brush soft pink shadow from the Maybelline palette across the lid. 4. Curl lashes, then brush on mascara. 5. Apply foundation; blend it with a damp makeup sponge. 6. Dot concealer under the eyes and on the bridge and sides of the nose. 7. Apply blush to the cheeks and the forehead; blend with fingers. 8. Swirl the brush blush from the e.l.f. Studio compact around in the palette to mix the brush and bronzer together, then brush on. 9. Apply a bit of white 20 shadow (from the Maybelline palette) on the brow bones to brighten and highlight; add the same to the outer corners of the eyes as well. 10. Brush powder over face to reduce shine and set the look. 11. Finish with lip gloss. Hair Removal Options WebMD Many people have unwanted hair. It's common on the upper lip, chin, cheeks, back, legs, fingers, feet, and toes. It can have many causes, including genetics, cerain medications such as steroids, higher levels of certain hormones, and polycystic ovarian syndrome. There are several ways to remove unwanted hair. With most methods, at least some of the hair will eventually grow back. Shaving Shaving is best for leg, arm, and facial hair. It can, though, cause ingrown hairs, especially in the pubic region. Plucking Plucking or tweezing can be painful, but it may be a good option if you only have a few hairs you want to remove. Times when you might want to pluck include when you're reshaping your eyebrows or pulling out a few stray hairs that appear on your face. You should not, however, use this hair removal method for large areas. It can cause ingrown hairs or scarring. Depilatory Creams Hair removal creams, also known as depilatory creams, are available without a prescription. They're not all the same, so be sure to read the label. For instance, you shouldn't use a hair removal cream made for pubic hairs to remove hair on your face. The chemicals in these products dissolve the hair shaft. Using a cream improperly -- for instance, leaving it on too long -- can burn your skin. If you have a history of allergic reactions, you should first test a little bit of the cream on a small area on your arm to make sure you don’t have a bad reaction to it. Be sure to follow the directions on the cream. Hot Waxing You can do this at home or you can have it done by a professional in a salon. Hot waxing can be messy and painful and may leave some hairs behind because they can break off. Infection is one side effect to watch for. If the wax is too hot, you may get a burn. You should not use this method if you also use certain types of prescription acne creams (such as Retin-A) or take isotretinoin. If you do, the wax will pull your skin off. Many women use this hair removal method in the bikini area and to remove hair on the upper lip. 21 Threading Threading is a traditional Indian method of hair removal that some salons offer. The professionals who do threading use strings they twist in a pattern and use to pull unwanted hair out. Laser Hair Removal This is one of the longest-lasting methods, but it generally requires four or more treatments 4-6 weeks apart. It can only be effective on dark hair. The laser beam or a light pulse works to destroy the hair bulb. The treatment can be expensive and sometimes painful, but it can be used on many parts of the body where unwanted hair appears. Be sure you select a doctor or technician who is highly trained and knowledgeable. Electrolysis Electrolysis is done by a professional who places a tiny needle with an electric current in the hair follicle. There are two primary hair removal methods with electrolysis: galvanic and thermolytic. Galvanic hair removal chemically destroys the hair follicle. Thermolytic removal uses heat to destroy the follicle. In either case, be sure to find a professional who is highly trained and knowledgeable. You can get electrolysis on any part of the body. Medications and Unwanted Hair If none of these hair removal methods help, you may want to ask your doctor's advice. There are drugs that inhibit hair growth. Spironolactone is a pill that may slow or reduce hair growth in areas that you don’t want hair. It will not get rid of the hair on your scalp and may actually stimulate growth there. There is a prescription cream called Vaniqa that's approved by the FDA for slowing facial hair growth in women. This cream slows growth, but it will not remove the hair. You apply it to the area twice a day. Once you stop using the cream, the hair will regrow. 22 Let’s Talk Wigs A 5 Part Series With All You Need to know About Wigs: By: Karen of FemmeFever This series will include 1 – How To Choose The Right Wig For YOU 2 - Human vs Synthetic Wigs & other tips 3 – How To Care For Your Wig to Keep It Looking New 4 – How To Store Your Wig 5 – Why The Difference In Prices? What Makes One “Better” Then Another.. Karen is a genetic female who began FemmeFever fourteen years ago. After exploring the community and seeing the need for a noncommercial, very caring and helpful resource, she ventured into the transformation and support end of the spectrum. Her background is in social work and cosmetology -- a perfect blend for the community. She also has runway/ modeling experience from"back in the day" also helps her to share deportment information and guidance for picture posing as well as enhanced knowledge of the camera. Her goal is to help all who reach out to realize they can accept and have FUN with their femme self. FemmeFever is based out of Long Island, New York. The gals are welcome here to meet, chat, obtain my services in private and BE THEMSELVES. PART 1 – How To Choose The Right Wig For YOU The wig you wear can make or break your overall look. I know how difficult it is to chose a wig that's right for you -- and most of you probably purchase your wigs on line... Of course your best bet is to TRY on different styles and colors and SEE for yourself which wig both enhances the image you desire and softens male features but many of you want the convenience of ordering on line... SO, HERE ARE A FEW TIPS for the on line shopper ; giving special attention to the novice wig wearer... 23 It is important to wear the hairstyle that compliments your features but you need to feel good in the wig you choose. So, when choosing follow some simple guidelines, but don’t be too practical – you gotta love the wig you wear! If you are unsure as to your head size be sure to get a wig that is Adjustable to fit all. Or has an adjustable “cap”. More about caps in future segments.. Some gals enjoy wearing different looks to different events or on different days while other gals want to be known for one look , much like most genetic gals who do not change their hair style or color to match a venue or outfit. It is always wise to begin with one or two looks that you love, and that capture you in the most feminine way! Your aim should be a wig that doesn’t age you, that compliments your features and above all else one that does not Look like a wig! COLOR: Although you may possibly look great in any shade, the shade that will usually be best for you is one close to your natural color. Picking a wig that has highlights or frosting shades in it can soften your face, helping to give a more feminine look. Dark shades are wonderful for some but can be “hard” on those of you with more masculine features. A mistake many make is choosing a color that's too dark. When in doubt, go a shade lighter. Warm Colors People with warm colors have similar characteristics. For example, they are more likely to: Look better in gold jewelry Have olive or dark skin Tan easily Have brown, green or hazel eyes Have pink or gold undertones Have deep brown, red or strawberry hair If you have warm tones, you are more likely to look your best in partial cap or full cap wigs that are dark brown, chestnut or deep auburn with golden shades. Black may wash out your warm complexion and should be avoided to provide the best look. Cool Colors People with cooler tones usually look better in silver jewelry and often have: Fair skin Blue or green eyes 24 Dark brown or pale skin tones Blue-black, coffee brown or ash brown hair Cool-toned wig wearers should look for products with black, brown and blonde tones but should avoid yellow or golden highlights because these are more suited for warm-toned skin. Wig Color Glossery: Highlights - The process of using contrasting colors of hair to create a sunlit appearance. They may be light or heavy streaks blended throughout the entire wig or just at the front. Highlights are generally used less than a 50-50 proportion. Frosted Color - A color effect that uses two contrasting colors in a 50%-50% equal ratio proportion to create a soft blended effect. Rooted Color – A root slightly darker than the rest of the hair for a more natural and believable look. STYLE: Some quick tips: * Bangs are great for helping to minimize the look of masculine eyebrows. Styles that cover sideburns may also be helpful for you. * Avoid costume cheap wigs; they will look horrible and won’t last past the second wear. The simple guide below may be of help in regards to the best choice for your face. Oval As its name implies, the OVAL Shape Face is longer than wide, high forehead, with a jaw that's narrower than the cheekbones. Because the oval shaped face has no dominant areas and is so proportional, this face looks good with just about any hairstyle, length or texture. Suggestions - You are a lucky lady! Since almost all styles look good on you, you can wear more hairstyles than any other facial structure. You can try short, medium, and long wigs in straight, layered, wavy or curly styles. Suggested oval styles •Long layers •Slightly off-centre parting. •Layers that end at your cheek bones. 25 Round The ROUND Shape Face is characterized by a wide hairline and fullness below the cheekbones. Full and widest at your cheeks, your chin is rounder. Maybe overweight with the neck may appearing short? These faces look very good with a geometric or linear style. Add height (perhaps a layered top), when possible, and long, wispy side areas to make the cheeks look narrow. Chin length or longer styles with fullness. Best round face hairstyles are •Long length with wispy sides ['bangs'] •Longer thinner fringe. •Wigs that finish at the bottom of your chin. Suggestions - The goal: to slim your face. Hair below the chin line should be worn with a face-lengthening center part; for hair above chin line, wear an off-center part to interrupt the roundness. Height at the crown and a bare forehead lengthen and slim the face. It's best to avoid short and sleeked-back hairstyles. In short-angled styles, you are best seen with hair brushed away from the face, building extra crown height to narrow the roundness of your features. Though bangs shorten the face, you can wear curly, tousled side bangs. Always avoid straight-falling bangs. Wear longer styles closer to the face to give length. Always try wigs with fullness at the crown such as Fearne. Styles that also work for you are shorter ones such as Chanelle. Any styles that have layers and cut close to your face will add length to your roundness and make your face appear slimmer. Try the inverted bob style such as Alix Vicky Frankie or Katie. Square The SQUARE Shape Face is characterized by a wide hairline and jaw. The Angular jawline, same width as forehead Square shaped faces need height on top and narrowness at the sides. Comb the hair off the forehead to add height to the face. Curly texture and wisps of hair around the face break the wide, straight lines common to the square face. Avoid styles that add width at the jawline and look for 26 those that lengthen the face and add fullness on top. The goal: soften the sharp angle of jawline and minimize squared-off brow. Hairstyles that emphasize the cheekbones mid-line of the face are most flattering. Bangs and waves at the temple also soften the square.. Never wear straight bangs. Hair turned under at the bottom also will narrow the width of the jaw. Styles in loose curls and waves add extra dimension to the square face. Heart The HEART Shape Face is characterized by a wide forehead and a narrower chin/jaw. Bring some hair onto the forehead to disguise its width. Keep hair close to the head at the eyes but make it slightly full around the jaw, chin, and below and in front of the earlobes. OK for chin -length or longer styles with side parts and sweptforward layers around the upper face. The most flattering heart shape wig styles are •Short and full •Long sides •Blunt Fringe. Suggestions- The chin length bob or medium length straight style is made particularly for your face shape. The goal: diminish forehead width and create a wider, fuller jaw effect.If you want bangs, wear them full and curly if possible. Wear a side part with soft three-quarter bangs swept over one side to balance your forehead width. The styles should be fuller at the top than at the jaw line. Upswept at the sides and off the forehead further emphasize your feminine appeal . A medium length to mid-neck is your best look. Fullness at the bottom, with hair directed forward onto the cheeks gives you the appearance of a wide chin. Curls or loose waves, shaped from the ears down, add width and fullness to your chin. ….Once you have your wig, Play with it. Use your fingers to bring out textures and layers – OR comb or brush to style it neatly. As a rule, shorter "shake-n-go" styles are easiest to care for. Longer synthetic styles require a little more maintenance. A common mistake many make is choosing a style that's too long, which might not only be more work, but may overwhelm their features. Avoid the temptation of a dramatic or "big hair" wig unless you're proficient with your makeup. Match your personality as well as your face to the wig you buy. A small, soft face backed by a de- 27 mure personality should adorn a wig with the same "attitude." Harder features, more makeup and a "go girl" attitude can carry a less conservative style much better! FemmeFever offers you the PRIVATE service of trying on many styles and colors. Also offer free phone consult or consult w a pic...on style and color to choose. I make ordering online easier! Give a look on www.femmefever.com Next Month: Part 2 Human vs Synthetic Wigs & other tips 28 The Adventures of Judy Sometimes Fire Alarm Fun Being on call 24/7/365 and dressing as a woman the majority of the time I'm not at work can get complicated when you do maintenance on an apartment building. Fortunately for me, depending on the situation, I can pick and choose if I want to show up dressed in an "emergency". In most causes when I get a call it’s not a life and death situation so I can either arrange a time to rectify what’s going on or deal with it on the spot and show up dressed. In the 3 years I have worked there I can only recall a hand full of situations where I decided to deal with what was going on dressed because I knew what would be involved to solve the problem. Last Thursday I was put in a situation that I didn't have a choice. As most of you know, Thursday is trivia night for me and a few of my lady friends. As we were just finishing up the first round I received a call from SimplexGrinnell’s alarm monitoring system telling me our fire alarm had activated. About a minute later I get a call from one of the tenants telling me the same thing and then another call from my boss. Well, needless to say I didn't have time to rush home and change as that would have probably took an extra 20 minutes to do. So, I let my lady friends know what was going on, gathered my purse and coat and headed for the unknown. To my relief the fire department was already on site and had diagnosed the problem by the time I got there (about 10 minutes). It seems that one of the smoke detectors had filled with water and set off the alarm. It had been well below zero the previous 3 days and the temps on Thursday were near 40 so I can only assume that the underside of the roofing had gathered a bit of frost and then melted and somehow dripped into the detector from the attic side...a 1 in a million shot...I hope. Anyway, as I walked into the building I see a couple of fireman standing in the lobby so I went up and told them I was the caretaker and one of them says, oh, you must be Dan. I said yes. I'm not sure how they knew that, but my name and number is posted on the peg board in the lobby so I suppose that’s how they came to that conclusion. We ended up standing in the lobby for a few minute trying to deduct what caused the alarm to go off and I asked if they had been in the attic to check out the offending detector. They said they hadn't but would if I wanted them to. I said, under the circumstances (being dressed) I sure would appreciate it. So we made our way to the second floor laundry where the access is and one of the younger guys 29 climbed up to check things out. He said he couldn't find any obvious point of access and there didn't seem to be any wet spots around the detector. I said, OK, good enough, I'll check it out tomorrow and thanked them for their help. Nothing was said about the way I was dressed, but I'm sure they probably had a good chuckle on the way back to the station. Just for clarification I was wearing a cardigan, a cami, a skirt and boots. After they left I was on my own to figure out how to get the smoke detector functioning again because when the alarm goes off the elevator goes in lockdown mode with the door open on the first floor. Needless to say I couldn't leave it until morning because we have tenants who are in wheelchairs that would have no way to get down from the second floor if we were to have another emergency. I don't have much training for this kind of thing other than I know how to silence and reset the alarm system so I had to call our head of maintenance in Billings, Montana. Fortunately he was able to walk me through the steps needed to get everything back up and running and I was back at Specks about 2 hours after getting the initial call. One thing that did surprise me is that the whole time I was at the building not one tenant came out of their apartment so having to deal with someone while I was dressed was avoided. I'm guessing about half the tenants know from me being at the building dressed during previous incidents, so I guess it wouldn't have been the end of the world...might have even been kind of fun. Judy Lynn 30 Módhnóirí by Barbara Marie “GENDER NON COMFORMING” INSERVICE (part 2) NOVEMBER 6TH 2014 AT GEORGIA SOUTHERN UNIVERSITY STATESBORO GEORGIA In part 1, three members of Sigma Epsilon, Phoebe Reese, Valerie Richardson, and my self, who are members of the Atlanta Chapter of TriEss, spoke to Dr Theresa Yancey’s Psychology class on being transgendered and heterosexual cross-dressers. The class was from 2 pm until 3:15. There was a question and answer period following our short presentation. Comments from Dr. Yancey’s students followed my write up of Part 1 along with a photo. At 5 pm, Sarah Klar, also a member of Sigma Epsilon, joined the three of us for another presentation to the students of Dr Shauna Joye’s Psychology class. It was from 5 pm until 6:15. As before Phoebe began the presentation with a short history of the term transgendered and being a cross dresser. She then followed with a short history about herself. She then turned the floor over to Valerie who gave a short history of her involvement with cross-dressing. Sarah then followed and I was the last to speak before opening up the class to the questions (no holds barred). If the students asked a question, they got an honest answer. The attached photo is of the four of us along with Dr. Joye. Following our presentation, the four of us went to RJ’s restaurant for supper. After supper, Sarah went back to Savannah. Phoebe and Valerie spent the night at the Baymont Hotel before returning to Atlanta on Friday morning. The comments from Dr. Joye’s students are listed below. 31 Shauna Joye’s Class- Student comments Hey guys! Thanks so much for coming to our class. Your stories were awesome! I learned so much from your conversations. I’m really glad you came and shared your stories; it shed more light on misconceptions. It was really insightful to hear how dressing in women’s attire boosted Barbara’s confidence. I appreciate and respect the opener about different issues that come along with choosing to dress in women’s clothing. I enjoyed hearing all their individual stories. I really was intrigued and they really opened my eyes because I honestly never talked to a cross dresser. I appreciated that they were very open and so willing to tell their stories and answer our questions. I really enjoyed all of you coming in and speaking with the class. I thought it was wonderful that Barbara decided to dress full time. It would be fun to slam some beers with all of you! I really appreciate the insight you gave as how women would rather have men just listen to their problems then try and fix them. Thank you for coming to the class, I enjoyed your presentation and learned a lot. It was really interesting to learn how all you dealt with this as well as your wives. Thank you so much for coming! I truly enjoyed learning about something new to me. I enjoyed hearing about the advantages and things y’all enjoy about dressing. I also found it interesting hearing about what issues y’all face while dressing. I enjoyed how open y’all were about yourself. Your eagerness to answer all of our questions was awesome! Y’all rock! I’m glad you all shared. I learned a lot. I think that being able to be yourselves and be happy despite judgments speaks volumes and opened my eyes a bit more to some close friends of mine! This was very interesting information. I did not know that cross dressers were usually heterosexual. To my surprise, you were all married or widowed. Your talk definitely made me take a different look at cross-dressing. I really appreciated how open you were with every question we asked. Sara seemed timid but she tried to answer and I appreciate it. Phoebe, I love how open you are and just seem to not care about negative opinions. I’m glad everyone’s wife was okay after some time and still accepted and loved you all. Thanks for coming! I’m glad you came because I learned a lot! I have a lot of friends in the LGBTQ community, but I’ve never met someone who cross-dressed. I wish I could have gotten a picture with all of you but I had to run to work. I really appreciated the insight that was given. I’ve been accepting of cross dressers but I never knew what their perspective was on it. I thought it was enjoyable and would like to learn more about it. I thought you all cleared up a lot of things I had just “assumed.” You gave me incentive to talk to a friend who is into dressing up in women’s lingerie and is embarrassed. I loved how open y’all were! 32 I had no idea that an organization was in place for cross dressers. It was very enlightening to hear you all speak. I think it is cool how you all said that now you can understand what women go through to get ready. I liked that they all seemed like regular guys playing dress up. They weren’t trying to be over the top feminine. Enjoyed the topic and the visit! I really enjoyed learning first hand from you guys how it is to be a cross dresser or transgendered person. I’m glad you could come and talk because I think it would help someone else who may be too scared to come out of their shells. You did a great job talking and answering questions. I really enjoyed it! Thanks! It was very informative and I learned a lot. Ladies were very nice and enjoyed them talking. I would have never known about cross-dressing if they had not come and explained it. I really enjoyed y’all visiting with us Thursday. I personally have never seen a cross dresser in person, only on TV, and was very interested in what was said. I was amazed at how open each of you was about your lives. I thought that you guys were amazing and brave for believing in yourselves. I thought it was interesting that you felt like you were putting on a show when dressed like a woman, but reverted back to more masculine mannerisms when dressed like a man. Barbara, I thought it was funny when a woman hit on you and you replied, “We don’t have the same plumbing.” I honestly thought this was one of the most interesting presentations I’ve seen at Georgia Southern. It definitely opened my eyes to something that I normally would not have seen. Plus, it really taught me some things that I normally wouldn’t even have a drive to educate myself on. Very interesting indeed. I liked hearing about each lady’s personal story. Valeria was hilarious!! I wanted to take Barbara home to be my makeshift “Statesboro Grandma” since she was so cute! Overall it was very educational and I enjoyed it a lot! Barbara, I appreciate your story about your marriage. It was great to learn that you don’t have to be gay to cross-dress. Phoebe, your story was amazing! Hey y’all! Fistly, I wanted to thank the four of you for visiting our class! I learned a TON and I could only hope to meet friends like you guys soon J Phoebe, I love how you have a guy mode that involves a motorbike and guns. I would love to be in your shoes, or heels, for a moment. Barbara, I want to thank you for opening my eyes to the complexities of gender identity. My inability to put you in a little, stereotypical box continues to amaze me and keep me intellectually interested in gender studies. 33 Tasi’s Musings, March, 2015 Greetings from Merida RALLY MAYA MEXICO: A Rolling Museum The Rally Maya is one of the most important national and international vintage races recognized by the FIVA “Federation Internationale des Vehicules anciens” (International Federation of old Vehicles) as a world class event. The rally allows classic cars older than 45 years in 4 categories (1915-1930, 1931 -1945, 1946-1960, 1961-1970) and 5 stages throughout the Yucatan peninsula (Campeche, Quintana Roo & Yucatan). Combining lifestyle, sports, culture, history and tradition, the race becomes a rolling museum, supported by the organizers of the world-famous “La Carrera Panamericana” or the Pan Am Race. Rally Maya Mexico is not a speeding race, but a Regularity Rally, which means it measures Time, Speed and Distance. Every single car is required to maintain an average speed based on their model. The average speed cannot be exceeded; participants can go faster or slower through the various stages, but overall the speed must be as close as possible to the average. Consistency will be rewarded. On Sunday May 3, 2015 a parade and “Concours d’Elegance” will take place in Merida, Yucatan, the starting point of the race. Click the link above to see these many beautiful vintage cars. In the News Biological basis for being transgender. Researchers from the Boston University School of Medicine published a review concluding that there is a biological basis for transgender identity, according to a Friday press release. The review, published in the journal Endocrine Practice on Feb. 9, contests the notion that transgender people choose what gender they prefer. There is now evidence that gender has a biological basis and it may improve health care, including surgery and hormone treatment, for transgender patients. 34 Our next trans celebrity. The Transition of Bruce Jenner: A Shock to Some, Visible to All, and not without controversy. Marcia Ochoa, chairwoman of the feminist studies department at the University of California, Santa Cruz, said that much of the publicity swirling around Mr. Jenner, especially the obsession with his physical changes, had been ugly and prurient. “It’s such a courageous act, if she’s going to be transitioning publicly and subjecting herself to that kind of ridicule,” Ms. Ochoa said, using the feminine pronoun to describe Mr. Jenner. “In some ways, this is changing the whole landscape of it, because ultimately it looks inhumane, and she is a person who deserves to be happy.” Discrimination against transgender Americans. Two new reports detail discrimination against transgender individuals. Understanding Issues Facing Transgender Americans details each sphere of society in which transgender Americans face daily discrimination and offers brief recommendations on a local, state and federal level. The figures are sobering Unfair Price: the Penalty for Being Transgender in America examines that poverty in greater detail. The report lists what it calls two "primary failures of law' as the reason "transgender people in the United States face clear financial penalties and are left economically vulnerable"—pervasive discrimination and a lack of clear legal protections along with hostile educational environments Click the link above for the full story or to get copies of the reports. Gender-bending fairy doll sparks outrage in Argentina. A fairy doll that has a female body with male genitalia has sparked outrage in Argentina. The toy came to note after a mother shared pictures of it on Facebook, after her three-year-old was playing with it. In addition to having long hair, a dress, make-up and fairy wings, peeking under its clothes reveals a bulge in the shape of male genitalia. It is not known whether the extra feature of the doll – which was made in China and sold in a discount shop – was intentional, or whether it is a manufacturing defect. Click the link for a video of the doll. Remember the story of the Washington state florist who refused to provide flowers for a gay couples wedding. Well, they broke the law (no surprise there). Benton County Superior Court Judge Alex Ekstrom rejected arguments from the owner of Arlene’s Flowers in Richland that her actions were protected by her freedoms of speech and religion. While religious beliefs are protected by the First Amendment, actions based on those beliefs aren’t necessarily protected, he said. And the Supreme Court has upheld theses rulings for 135 years now. It’s time once again to take back our freedoms from these lawbreakers, including some state and nation legislators, who would restrict our freedoms given under the Constitution. 35 And Lambda Legal has an opinion here on a similar story Transgender Suicide Hotline. Following the recent and tragic suicide of Ohio transgender teen, Leelah Alcorn, renewed attention has once again been placed on the tragically high suicide rate of transgender men and women. A newly started suicide prevention hotline in San Francisco that is dedicated to preventing transgender suicide is hoping to make a huge difference. 10 Transgender Health Trends for 2015. Dr. Sherman Leis, founder of The Philadelphia Center for Transgender Surgery, in Bala Cynwyd, PA, has identified 10 important trends that will affect America and its transgender community in 2015. Books, Movies, and Television Trans Actress Michelle Hendley Tugs Our Heartstrings in Boy Meets Girl,. a quirky romantic comedy. Hendley has received well-deserved critical acclaim for her debut in this coming-of-age story about two twenty-something's living in Kentucky: Robby and his best friend since childhood, Ricky, a gorgeous, witty trans girl. Lamenting the lack of eligible bachelors in their small town, Ricky finds sparks flying with new friend -- and hilarity, touched with a solid balance of down-to-earth drama, ensues. Check out this preview: https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=zlopSCLGT2s NEW GIRLS ON THE BLOCK follows a group of highly inspirational and entertaining women from Kansas City, Mo. – all friends, some couples – who just happen to be transgender. After years of struggling with their gender identities, they are finally finding themselves and learning what it means to be the women they always knew they were. Confronting issues with their relationships, their femininity, their families and friendships, NEW GIRLS ON THE BLOCK is an authentic look at lives in transition. The six-part series will premiere on Discovery Life Channel on Thursday, April 2 at 10/9c “Orange Is The New Black” star Laverne Cox, who was the first openly transgender actor to be nominated for an Emmy in 2014, has been cast in CBS’s legal drama pilot Cox will play Cameron Wirth, a transgender Ivy League-educated lawyer “described as “competitive as she is compassionate.” “She’s fierce, funny and the fact that she’s experienced injustice first hand makes her fight all the harder for her clients,” according to the pilot’s description. The Hollywood Reporter notes the role could be Cox’s largest gig to date since her breakout role in “Orange.” 36 Advanced Style Feature. Street style photographer Ari Seth Cohen and director Lina Plioplyte dive into the personal lives of New York City’s most fashionable seniors. Enjoy the feature film PLUS the Front Row Package - more than 30 minutes of additional scenes with the captivating ladies of Advanced Style. Fashion The Moschino spring 2015 just came down the runway in Milan and let me tell you—it was all about Barbie (she's having a mega moment right now!). Models had seriously voluminous wigs (platinum blond if it worked) and the entire first half of the show was all bubble-gum pink. There were all kinds of retro references too, from the chain belts to the prim skirt suits, and, of course, plenty of whacky moments. Some of my favorites? The roller-skating model who did a little spin at the end of the catwalk and a white terry-cloth dress that made the model look like she'd just stepped out of the shower. Watch the Barbie show here 37 Meet the Husband and Wife Who Look Like Identical Twins. Look who’s causing a huge controversy in Russia these days! Meet Alison Brooks (on the left), who married Alina Davis (right). How is this possible in a country where same-sex weddings are banned, violence against homosexuals is on the rise, and homosexuality was only declassified as a mental illness in 1999? Davis carries her bride, Brux. They managed to tie the knot despite protestations from a Russian registry office. Simple. The 23-yearold Alina was born a man named Dmitry Kozhukhov. She labels herself as “androgyne,” which means she doesn’t fit neatly into one gender identity, goes around wearing women’s clothes every day, but because her birth certificate lists her as a man, the Russian authorities couldn’t refuse them their marriage certificate or their right to marry. Awesome Crossdresser Makeovers 38 Humor Ellen Reviews a Hilarious Infomercial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4D35hkAar3o So until next month, Hugs……Tasi 39 Humor Morning Chuckle A guy took his blonde girlfriend to her first football game. They had great seats right behind their team's bench. After the game, he asked her how she liked the experience. 'Oh, I really liked it,' she replied, 'especially the tight pants and all the big muscles, but I just couldn't understand why they were killing each other over 25 cents.' Dumbfounded, her date asked, 'What do you mean?' 'Well, they flipped a coin, one team got it and then for the rest of the game, all they kept screaming was: 'Get the quarterback! Get the quarterback!' I'm like....Helloooooo? It's only 25 cents!!!!!!!!!!! Two good ol' boys in a Alabama trailer park were sitting around talking one afternoon over a cold beer after getting off work at the local Nissan plant. After a while the 1st guy says to the 2nd, "If'n I was to sneak over to your trailer Saturday & make love to your wife while you was off huntin' and she got pregnant and had a baby, would that make us kin?" The 2nd guy crooked his head sideways for a minute, scratched his head and squinted his eyes thinking real hard about the question. Finally, he says, "Well, I don't know about kin, but it would make us even!" 40 Angels In The Centerfold Barbara Anne Tammy Richards Tiffany 41 Tammy Trueheart Bobbie Vance Ginger 42 Sandi Sea Suzanne Gabrielle 43 Mellissalynn’s Tips & Tricks Happy March! We’re already three months into the new year, girls, can you believe that? In just a few weeks, the winter will be over and (at least by the calendar), it’s springtime. It’s time to be looking at the winter wardrobe with an eye toward putting it away and getting ready for pretty spring colors and open toed shoes. Are you ready for that? I am! We still have a little bit of the winter left, though, and apparently it isn’t going to go away quietly. To all my readers on the eastern coast of the US, I hope you’re all safe, warm and not buried in massive amounts of snow. We’ve been very fortunate in my area of the world on that subject; I think there’s only been one snowfall that amounted to more than a dusting. So what have you all been doing in February? I hope that Valentine’s Day was beautiful for you all. It certainly was for me! Dinner out and a movie was a great treat. I had the opportunity before V-Day to spend a full four days en femme with my family in Iowa. It was, to say the least, incredible! This was the longest I’ve ever spent dressed, outside of conventions. I don’t count those because I’m in costumes most of the time for them. This time was just four straight days of being a woman, and it was amazing. So tell me all about your month! Write me at [email protected]. I answer any and all mail I get, so feel free to tell me about anything you want to chat about…and in the meantime, let’s get to the tips & tricks! @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ Actually, my first topic isn’t so much a tip as a procedure that I recently found information on. For years, I’ve heard about people getting saline injections into their breasts for a temporary enhancement, but until recently, I could never find any solid information. Well, I have it now! The procedure exists, and it’s not cheap. It can cost anywhere from $2500 to $3500! That leaves this concept firmly out of my price range. Moreover, the enhancement only s lasts between 18 to 24 hours. If I were going to spend that kind of cash, girls, my enhancement better last a LOT longer than a day! What do you all think? 44 @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ During my four days of femininity tour, my niece and I had our nails done. She opted for a simple basic manicure. I however, decided to have my nail done wit the gel shellac. For those of you who aren’t aware of what this is, the shellac nails are very similar to basic nail polishes. The difference is, these polishes need to be cured under a UV or an LED light. When they’re dry, the polish is amazingly sturdy and looks very nice. The real issue is removing them. If a girl isn’t careful in doing so, she can really trash her nails. One of the girls in my school did this to herself awhile back and has now sworn off the shellac because of it. Thankfully, the damage to her nails wasn’t permanent. This is the best procedure I can recommend for removing shellac from your nails. File your nail first, to break the seal on the shellac. Clip or otherwise attach acetone-soaked cotton balls to the nail. I like to take tin foil and wrap the cotton balls to my fingers and let the soak. Leave the cotton balls on for 15-20 minutes. After that, the shellac should come off fairly easily. Your nails will be a bit weak after the shellac is gone, girls. Some TLC for your fingers is a must! You’ll want a nail buffer block, available in any beauty aisle, to keep the peeling to a minimum. You’ll also want to keep your nails a bit shorter; longer, brittle nails are prone to breakage down deep, where you really don’t want it! Short and slightly rounded nails are best for your purposes here. This is a tip that applies always, but especially for what we’re talking about now. When you file your nails, you should always file in one direction only! The back and forth method of filing actually weakens the nail. Be gentle on the cuticles, ladies; they’re there for your nail’s protection. While you can safely use an orangewood stick to push the cuticle back, don’t take the clippers out! Your nails need the protection. Moisturizers are your friends in this time of trial as well. If you can sleep this way, apply your moisturizer and sleep with gloves on to help it penetrate better. And remember, if you’re doing dishes or washing a car or something else that involves dipping your hands in hot, soapy water, use rubber gloves. Lastly, try to soak your nails once a week in a good, warm olive oil bath (aka a bowl of warm olive oil). This will really increase the nails’ recovery, and feels good too! @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ Do you have trouble with your lipstick just not lasting long enough? Not only that, but as it wears off, it does so unevenly? It’s a common thing among women. This is a professional trick to help prevent fading and loss. Before you apply your lipstick, use a stain of the same color under the lipstick. The stain does exactly what it says and will last far longer than just lipstick. Also, as a stain wears off, it does so evenly. 45 @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ When you apply your mascara, do you remember to show some love to your lower lashes? Many women don’t, and it shows! Taking the time to apply mascara to your bottom lashes can be time consuming and messy, but when it's done properly, coating those wispy lower lashes can really give your eyes a bolder look, even if you decide not to apply top lash mascara or eye shadow. I want to add another note about your lower lashes. Lately, I’ve seen several women running around with false lashes on their lower lids, trying desperately to keep them on! Here’s the deal: your lower eyelids have a lot more sebum, or oil, than your upper lids. For that reason, false lashes won’t stay on nearly as long, or as well. If you try this, be aware of that fact. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ Hannah, a reader of the other magazine I publish in, SIS magazine (found on deviantArt.com), recently wrote me to ask how we can avoid having old-lady hands. I did some research and found a lot of interesting information on the subject. I knew some of what I found, but some was completely new to me. Hannah, here’s what I found! This is a common misconception: your liver is the culprit behind those brown spots on your hands. This isn't true! Brown spots are caused by the sun. However, they start to pop up as you age because your hands are exposed to the sun more than the rest of your body. And where are they exposed the most? That's correct, while you're driving. To avoid brown spots, and to keep more from appearing, you should always wear sunscreen on the backs of your hands. Even in the winter, that sun can beat down and do the damage. Use a daily lotion with SPF 30-50, with broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection. Many hand creams now come with built-in sunscreen. Another trick would be to wear some driving gloves, or to drive with your hands at the bottom of the wheel, facing upward. Another problem that can be caused by sunlight and age is crepe-looking skin. No one wants the tops of their hands to look (and feel) like overcooked turkey. The sun's UV rays break down collagen and elastic tissue as you get older, resulting in a dry, paper mache-esque finish on the backs of your hands. The easiest and best solution to this problem is to eat protein. Collagen and elastic tissue are made of protein, so eating protein will help your body produce stronger collagen and thicker skin. Also, skip the harsh detergent soap you'll find in most public restrooms. A good idea is to keep a mild cleanser with you at all times so you can wash your hands without drying them out. Afterwards, apply a good moisturizer. Moisturizers with hardcore hydrating ingredients like ceramides and hyaluronic acid are recommended. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ So how do you make your brows, ladies? I typically fill in my brows with a sunflower-colored fine-point pencil (it’s the closest match I’ve found to my hair). I’d like to tell you about a product I’ve discovered recently: a brow plumper! A brow plumper can color the hairs a bit darker, without touching the skin behind them. This will make the hair a bit bolder and cause it to show up more while still looking natural. It will almost appear that they’ve been dyed! The plumper will also work to keep the 46 hairs in the form you brushed them into. Lastly, it can bring out smaller hairs that aren’t normally visible, causing your brows to look fuller @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ When you’re applying your concealer under the eyes, how do you do it? If you're like most of us, you dot it on and blend it. Here’s a better way to apply concealer under the eye that will actually distract other people’s eyes and create a softer look that blurs shadows or puffiness. Apply your concealer in an upside-down triangle pattern. You’ll do this in a pattern starting from your lower eyelid down to the top of the cheekbone. Blend it well. The difference is staggering! @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ And now we welcome you once again to Mellissa’s Germ-Phobic Corner! Actually, though, today’s issue isn’t really a germ issue so much. Did you know that, when you change deodorants or antiperspirants, your body chemistry will create worse body odor for you for a short time? It takes your body a little bit of time to adjust to a new product, and in the meantime, as it’s adjusting, the bacterial balance in your body is out of whack. This will disappear in a fairly short time (one to two weeks). @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ Holy cow! Ladies, I just learned about a procedure that I’ve never heard of. Did you know that you could give your eyelashes a permanent? Me either! I just watched a YouTube video on this and it seems to be pretty effective. This is DEFINITELY not something I’d recommend trying at home. If you want to see the video, here’s the YouTube address: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWdlqpUL_fE . I was absolutely blown away by seeing this! @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ One of the girls at my school recently asked me how to tone down an accident with her perfume. She had applied a bit more than intended and it was a bit strong. I took her into the nail room at the school and had her wipe down where she had applied her perfume with an alcohol-soaked cotton swab. Her scent was much less noticeable, but still present, when she finished I told her that when she applies her perfume, to hold the bottle at least ten inches away from her body. This way the perfume disperses over a wider area and isn’t as strong. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ It surprises me that more women don’t know this. When picking up new makeup, you can generally get away with buying mascara, eyeliner, lip gloss, and most eye shadows without testing them. Lipstick, powder, foundation, and blush all need to be checked before buying. You're not likely to be able to guess without testing. When testing a foundation, remember, the best place to do so is at the jaw line, not the 47 back of your hand! Where that myth started, I’ll never know. It’s incorrect. If you hold the back of the hand up to your face, you’ll see that there is quite a bit of difference between the two. . @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ If you're losing hair prematurely, see your doctor for a thyroid test. Hypothyroidism, which runs in families, can cause shedding, even at a young age. Be aware that it’s normal to lose between 80 and 100 strands of hair every day. This is an expensive test, and to spend the money over normal everyday hair loss would be tragic. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ You’ve washed your hair today, but the oil feels like it’s already building up again. What to do? Remember those blotting papers I mention every summer to help keep your makeup from running down you face? They’ll do the trick for your hair too! Give your scalp a quick once-over and your oil issue will disappear. If this is a continuous issue for you, use a shampoo that contains zinc. It's okay to condition if you feel you need it, just remember not to use it on your roots and scalp. I would recommend a spray-on leave-in condition for this, as they’re lighter. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ So ends March’s column! I’m going to run now and do some errands, but I’ll be back here next month with some all-new and exciting tips for you all. I’m attending the America’s Beauty Show again next month; unfortunately, the deadline for the magazine is prior to the show, so you’ll have to wait until May’s column to hear about it. If you have any questions about anything I’ve written, or tips to share, or just want to talk, feel free to write me! My address is still the same as it was at the beginning of the column: [email protected] . Or, if you prefer, you can add me on Facebook; my name there is Mellissa Lynn. I hope to hear from all of you! Have a great month, ladies! I’ll talk to you in April! 48 Color Pairs Trouble deciding what goes with what when it come to color? Check out the chart below. 49 11 Fashion Trends that Just Keep Coming Back By Lucky Magazine | Fashion – Slip Dresses What could possibly be sexier than wearing a lingerie-inspired silk slip dress during the daytime? Assuming that you're properly outfitted underneath it, you'll be in good shape. Track Pants For me, track pants are all too synonymous with the itchy, ill-fitting gymnastics team warm-up uniforms that continue to haunt my dreams. My old Adidas situation has grown up a bit, and there are now a number of stylish, comfortable versions for sale. Hoop Earrings In high school, I went through a (thankfully) brief period around 2006 during which I would wear the thinnest, largest possible hoop earrings because I saw Beyoncé wearing them on TRL once. Need I say more? Bucket Bags If Mansur Gavriel's seriously impossible to attain bucket bag reboot is any indication, this is one '90s trend we don't see going away anytime soon. French Manicures The French manicure: the once-obligatory eighth grade graduation nail treatment that has fortunately transitioned into something a little more chic and adult. 50 Flatform Shoes Remember when the Spice Girls would trot around in half-foot -tall, clunky platforms, totally defining 1990s girl power? After seeing an enormous crop of similar styles on the catwalk throughout Spring 2014 fashion month, we're forecasting a major flatform comeback come May. Wide-Legged Pants Flares have been on the gradual climb for several years, but thanks to the mega-success of American Hustle, the wide legs of the 1970s are currently experiencing a second wind. Blue Eyeshadow We've previously harped on and on about the blue eyeshadow renaissance, currently being spotted on A-listers ranging from Keira Knightley to Drew Barrymore. Distressed Jeans The acid wash days of our youth are long gone (and for good reason), but well-worn, distressed denim has suddenly become the latest must-have jean of 2014; the more strategically placed holes in your pants, the better. Chokers Thankfully, today's chokers have moved on from the plasticky, tattoo -style models of the mid-'90s (why were those even popular?). The modern versions come approved by celebs like Rihanna and Beyoncé. Backpacks Honestly, we're not quite sure why backpacks descended down the trend totem pole in the first place. Not only are they way better for your posture, but they add a certain sporty vibe to any outfit. 51 52 8 Ways to Look Better with Fashion Look Taller, Slimmer -- Even Younger! By Cynthia Nellis Women's Fashion Expert Sometimes we women make the looks thing so much more difficult than it really needs to be. Sure, you can exercise, get injections or undergo cosmetic procedures to look better. But what if you're looking for an simple, attainable, instant fix? Use fashion tricks like scale, fit, silhouette -- even color -- to help you look younger, taller, slimmer and so much more. 1. Look Skinnier. Instantly! Could it really be something so simple as a a small change in the way we wear everyday pieces to look instantly slimmer? Oh yes! A few years ago I started buying longer-length jeans so I could wear heels with them. Small change, huge difference. I not only looked thinner and longer legged, I also looked more dressed up in heels and jeans. Shapewear, colors and scale also play a big part 2. Easy Ways to Look Taller You can never look too tall! Even 6-foot, 50-something model Jerry Hall likes to look taller, in her monochromatic look with a V-neck and black fishnets to continue the long line. One of my friends said he wasn’t fat, his legs were just too short. I guess that’s a common problem for many of us midlifers: we’d all look longer and leaner with maybe another foot of height. 3. Flatter an Apple-Shaped Figure When it comes to finding clothing for your body shape, this is one of the more difficult shapes to flatter. Looks that are too voluminous will only make you look rounder, while clothing that is too tight won't flatter you either. The goal is to use clothing and accessories to balance out the proportions of your body. 4. Hide a Muffin Top Regardless of your size, shape or even age, there’s one body issue you are probably dealing with: the muffin top. This roll of fat – large or small, depending on your overall size – plops over the top of your waistband to create the look of a muffin top. It can just spill over the front of pants, or it can pop up over the sides and back of pants, too 53 5. Skip Clothes That Make You Look Older I don't know any woman who would wear something that makes her look fatter. But you'd be surprised by how many women wear styles that make them look older. It's not just vanity that keeps me wanting to look younger. It's the fact that I don't feel old on the inside, so why would I want to portray an aged image to the world? Banish tweeds, cardigans and old lady reading glasses to look younger 6. Flatter a Top-Heavy Figure You basically have two options when dressing for a top-heavy figure, because things like skin-tight tshirts and halter dresses are usually too skimpy. Instead go with the options of flattering a full bust by either creating an hourglass shape or create a column. More » 7. Dress a Bottom-Heavy Figure For bottom-heavy figures it's about fit, silhouette and finding the right bottoms to compliment this shape. Even prints and the visual location of the waist play a part in dressing this figure type. 8. Follow the Golden Rule (of Fashion) Make sure your hems and sleeves "stop" at the right spot to look your best in all of your clothes. Sounds simple, right? You'd be amazed how many women are lulled into trying unflattering looks like cap sleeves and capri pants. Tasi’s Take on Spring Fashion Trends Tasi Zuriack Spring is here. The weather is warming, the stores are stocked with spring fashions, the fashion mags have told us about all the new trends (too many to keep track of) and the runway shows are over until the fall. How do we make sense of it all or do we really even care? Some are perennial trends, some are hangovers from last year and some are new, but do you want to risk your often limited dollars on something that may not see the daylight from your closet. If you see a trend that you like, by all means, embrace it, but military jackets or ugly boots will not be seen here. Think quality and fit, particularly if it’s a classic item that will last for many seasons and can be paired to create many different looks. I love the latest crop of printed pants which look great with heels, but the opportunity to wear that look many places is somewhat limited. If you see it though, buy it now because it’s not likely to last. This is particularly true for the more trendier items So here are my thoughts for your consideration based on a collage of ideas from some of my favorite bloggers across all the age ranges. And I have to tell you, these are the best trends I have seen in a long time. 54 BRIGHT COLORS We all love black: It’s sexy and elegant and mysterious and chic. But it’s not the only color in the universe. Spring is bright. It’s about flowers and sunshine and ice cream and all those other storybook things. I’m not saying that lime greens and hot pinks are for you but I am a firm believer that dressing in bright colors can really improve your mood and help you sparkle. BLACK & WHITE Black and white is a perennial trend, featured with pops of the bright colors mentioned above. You’ll also see a lot of stand-alone bright white this season, a look which works with so many different styles (elegant, bohemian, dramatic, feminine…) and carries forward into summer beautifully. FIND SOMETHING FUNKY Patterns are a wonderful thing. Though solids are classic, nothing says springtime like oversized flowers or crazy geometrics. And they exist for virtually any style out there and they look good whether you are a skinny Minnie or a curvaceous babe. It’s so tiring to hear that patterns aren’t flattering, when in actuality, they can be one of the most complimentary things. Flattering is about fit and finding something that radiates your personality and makes you feel pretty and confident and special and unique. The goal is finding the clothes that make you feel the best. Remember to keep the scale of the print in proper proportion to your size — a large print can overwhelm a smaller body, while a tiny print loses its impact on a taller or larger frame. PEPLUM Peplum was a popular trend last year and is showing staying power this year,” says style blogger Alissa Wilson. This bold style is perfect for women of all sizes because of its sleek fit that curves in all the right places. Alissa loves the idea of gold jewelry with color and thinks it’s best worn with a black blazer. Along with a cute necklace, don’t be afraid to stack bracelets for any day or night occasion 55 ACCORDIAN PLEATS There’s no denying it — you will be wearing a pleated skirt come spring. Next to new shirting, it is the piece to buy to update your look. Pleats usually have specific connotations of prep school uniforms or unflattering secretary skirts, but not this season. Created in chiffons, silks and beyond, these modern pleats actually move. And if you are smart, you will do your buying now, as the best ones will surely sell out. POLKA DOTS Polka dots, particularly black and white, are always in style and Lane Bryant’s new spring line isn’t holding back. From undies to bathing suits, polka dots add a little more spice to your wardrobe no matter who is seeing them! Style blogger Marcy Guevara calls the new polka dots and lace trim underwear “fun and girlish.” My polka-dot pencil skirt paired with a brightly-colored top and layered is a fabulous and sexy look. AMAZING LACE We’re seeing lace everywhere — blouses, skirts and dresses – and in so many vibrant colors. This trend is interesting because it takes lace from the typical white, ivory and black and moves it into a much more modern vibe. You can still wear it in full ‘ladylike’ fashion with kitten heels if that’s your preference or if the occasion calls for it, but you can also have some fun and mix it up with a leather jacket and booties, or with a tee and pumps. Besides lace, cut-outs and mesh are being seen in everything from shoes to bags to clothes. I don’t see this as a perennial trend but if you love it and can find an accessory at a reasonable price, it could be a statement-making seasonal add-in. KITTEN HEELS This is good news for crossdressers. While shoe trends run the gamut this season…kitten heels make a return to the scene, as do lower, square -heeled pumps (nice for those who don’t like or can’t handle sky-high heels); gladiators are back as well, along with graphic and color-blocked heels and wedges. There should be something for everyone in the shoe department this season. 56 COLORS & PAIRINGS Lastly, my favorite fashionista, Aleigha, talks about about the top 5 colors for spring and summer, but more than that, she shows what colors they can be paired with for maximum effect. Want a quick guess? 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Blush Pastels: Baby Blue, Mint + Lilac White Freesia and Chartreuse Burnt Orange / Dark Carmel How to Dress a Large Bust Diana Pemberton-Sikes is an image consultant and author of Wardrobe Magic. Ready to find the clothing styles that suit you best and build a wardrobe of your best looks? Wardrobe Magic can show you how. What’s the easiest way to dress a large bust, so it stops becoming the focal point of every outfit? I mean it’s one thing when you want “the girls” to take center stage, but it can be frustrating when you don’t. If you’ve ever had a conversation with a man who stared at your chest instead of your face the entire time, you know exactly what I’m talking about. So how do you shift the focus? With a little sleight of hand. Start with: The Right Size Bra Your bustline should hit midway between your shoulders and elbows. Your bra should encase all of your breast tissue, with nothing overflowing above, below, or sideways. The band should lay smooth against your ribs and back with no unsightly bulges. The shoulder straps should stay in place without slipping off your shoulders or requiring constant readjustment. If that doesn’t sound like your bra, it’s time for a new one. You can get fitted at Victoria’s Secret or any number of upscale lingerie boutiques or department stores. Just call ahead to see if they have a bra fitter and make an appointment if necessary. 57 Need an extra-large cup size, like G, H, or N? Check out online specialty retailers like: BiggerBras.com Chantelle.com HerRoom.com JustMySize.com WacoalBras.com WizardofBras.com Yes, you may pay a little more, but the comfort, fit, and confidence that goes with it is well worth the money. Once you have a properly fitting bra, opt for: Dark Colored Tops Light colors make things look bigger. Dark colors make things look smaller. So if you want to make your bust look smaller, try dark colored tops, like black, brown, navy, burgundy, and forest green. A Diagonal Line A diagonal line across the chest minimizes the bust and makes the waist look smaller. Diane von Furstenberg built her empire on a diagonal line – the wrap dress – because it’s flattering to so many figures. Try it and see for yourself. Modest U-Shaped Neckline A modest U-shaped neckline will visually elongate you neck and put the emphasis on your face so long as you don’t show any cleavage. Add a beautiful necklace or to-die-for earrings and the focus will be strictly from the neck up. Wide Straps If you like to wear tops with straps, keep them an inch or so wide instead of spaghetti-skinny. Not only will a wide strap hide your bra straps, it will also offer visual balance to you bustline. Spaghetti straps won’t – they’re too small to support the load and just make your breasts look bigger. 58 So what should you avoid? Tops With Bustline Details Large prints, breast pockets, ruffles at the bustline – they all call attention to your breasts and make them look bigger. Avoid when possible. Turtlenecks When you cover up your neck, attention goes to your bust because it’s the only thing protruding on your torso. Don’t want that kind of attention? Don’t wear turtlenecks. Deep V-Necks A deep v-neck draws eyes to the spot between your breasts – and will often keep them there until you walk away. Avoid them in business situations if you want to be taken seriously. Button Shirts With No Darts A shapeless button shirt will hang off your breasts, hide your waist, and visually add pounds. If you have a nice figure, try button shirts with darts instead. Matronly, No Shape Styles Shapeless tops and dresses that fit your bust and hide the rest of you will make you look heavier than you are. They’ll also make you look matronly, as in old and out of shape. If you’re not or don’t want to look like it, don’t wear these unflattering styles. Your goal is to visually minimize your bustline and balance the rest of your figure. If you have a small waist, don’t hide it beneath a shapeless top – show it off. Have a bit of a tummy in addition to a big bust? Opt for vertical lines to draw the eye up and down. Don’t focus your energy on just hiding what you don’t like; focus on camouflaging the trouble spots while calling attention to the things you like. So what’s the bottom line? Having large breasts shouldn’t deter you from dressing well or professionally. If you start with a good bra and follow the guidelines suggested here, you shouldn’t have any problems. 59 7 Simple Ways to Look Younger Now (Male to Female Transformation Tips) ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Lucille Sorella is a GG (genetic girl) who teaches crossdressers, transsexuals, and transgender females how to look, act, and feel like real women. Her goal is to help T-women express their inner and outer femininity and increase their confidence as women. She has a professional background in fashion, beauty, dance, and natural healing and has been working with the transgender community for the past 12 years. Her website is loaded with useful information and is located at http://www.flat2fem.com/index1.html . Many crossdressers and TG women tell me that it was easier for them to look feminine when they were younger. None of us can stop the clock, but that doesn’t mean you have to accept looking old! With a little effort (and some beauty tricks), you can look feminine and beautiful at any age. Here are 7 simple ways to look younger – right now: 1. Choose the right hairstyle The wrong hair can age you faster than anything else. Yes, long hair is feminine. But be careful since hair that’s too long can emphasize the downward droop of your face. Shoulder length styles are most flattering. Bangs are another great anti-aging option. They’re cute, youthful, and are perfect for hiding forehead wrinkles. 2. Add some sex appeal While there’s nothing worse than dressing too sexy for your age, you should avoid “old lady syndrome” at all costs. Add a bit of youthful sex appeal by wearing high heels, choosing clothes in sensuous fabrics, or showing just a touch of skin. 60 3. Get enough sleep We all need our beauty sleep, but the older you get, the more a lack of sleep shows up on your face. Under-eye bags, dark circles, and sallow skin distract from a feminine look, so be sure to make sleep a priority. 4. Add some color to your wardrobe If you usually wear a lot of black or neutral tones, try adding some bright colors to your wardrobe. Bright colors have a youthful vibe and liven up your appearance. Just be sure to select colors that harmonize with your natural coloring. (Learn how to analyze your hair and skin tone and determine your best colors in The Ultimate En Femme Fashion Guide.) 5. Whiten your teeth Teeth are a subtle cue of age – old teeth tend to look yellow or grey. Whitening your teeth brightens your face and takes years off of your appearance. Try Crest White Strips for cheap and easy tooth whitening. 6. Use the right skin care products Most skin creams don’t deliver on their “miracle in a bottle” promises. However, there are certain ingredients that have proven anti-aging benefits. Fight wrinkles and firm your face by using products that contain one or more of the following ingredients: 61 Retinol Vitamin C Hyaluronic acid Alpha hydroxy acid Green tea You can find affordable products with these ingredients in any drug store. 7. Smile Yes, it’s trite advice, but smiling really is the fastest way to improve your appearance! A smile lifts the cheeks and acts like an instant facelift. Smiling also gives you a pleasant look and puts people at ease – making it easier to blend in as a woman. Another tip? Look at classy, attractive women over 40 for inspiration! 62 From The Kitchen (Our new Recipe Section) NAPPA CABBAGE SALAD (by: Susan) 1 head of Napa Cabbage 3 large sesame reads sticks 1 small package of almonds 1 package Top Ramen Noodles (uncooked_ 5 – 6 green onions Dressing 4 Tablespoons sugar 1-Cup salad oil 2-Teaspoon MSG (optional) 6 Tablespoons RED Wine Vinegar 1-Teaspoon Pepper 2-Teaspoons of salt Bondi Beach Barbie Shrimp Ingredients: 1/2 c (1 stick) butter, melted 1/4 c Olive oil 1/4 c Minced fresh herbs -(parsley, thyme and -cilantro) 3 tb Fresh lemon juice 3 lg Garlic cloves, crushed 1 tb Minced shallot Salt and pepper, freshly -ground 1 1/2 lb medium large -shrimp, unpeeled Spinach leaves, Lemon slices 63 Preparation: Combine first 8 ingredients in large bowl. Mix in shrimp. Marinate at room temperature 1 hour or in the refrigerator 5 hours, stirring occasionally. Prepare barbecue with medium hot coals. Thread shrimp on narrow skewers. Grill until just opaque, about 2 minutes per side. Line platter with spinach. Arrange skewers on platter. Garnish with lemon and serve. Makes 8 servings. Serve with cold beer. Amaretto Cheesecake Ingredients: 1/2 c Whole almonds 1 lb Cream cheese 3/4 c Sugar 3 Eggs 1 ts Vanilla extract 2 T Amaretto 3/4 c Sour cream Preparation: Spread nuts in a baking pan and bake in a preheated 325F oven for 8 minutes or until lightly toasted. Let cool and finely chop. With an electric mixer, beat cheese and sugar until smooth. Mix in eggs, vanilla, Amaretto and sour cream. Reserve 2 tablespoons of nuts, and stir in remaining nuts. Pour batter into a greased 9-inch springform pan. Sprinkle reserved nuts over the top. Bake in the middle of a preheated 325F oven for 25 minutes or until just barely set. Turn off the oven, leave the door ajar, and let cool in the oven for 1 hour longer. Chill. To serve, remove pan sides and cut into wedges. Have plenty of red wine, and whatever other drinks your guest enjoy. ©365Gay.com Ltd® 2004 64 On A Budget? 10 Ways to Eat Ramen for Dinner Times are tight, budgets are pinched. We had two dollars left in our food budget on Tuesday of last week, so I buzzed to the store and bought the only thing I could think of. Ramen. At 17 cents a package, ramen has to be the best food deal out there. And, it’s a fun deal, too. Because a packet of ramen isn’t just soup waiting to be made. It’s actually a blank canvas ready to be turned into art. Here are 10 super-simple ways to pimp out your ramen and make it into a simple, satisfying dinner. 1. Veggie Ramen (pictured above) . Toss a tablespoon of butter into a skillet. Add 2 tablespoons each of thinly-sliced carrots, frozen green beans, frozen white corn, and edamame. Cook just until softened. Add a packet of Pork Ramen, 2 cups of water, and cook until the noodles are cooked through, about 6 minutes. Add seasoning packet. Serve and enjoy. 2. Egg Foo Ramen. In a small bowl, whisk an egg with 1 tablespoon of water until well beaten. Bring 2 cups of water to a boil in a small saucepan. Pour egg into the water, then add the noodles. Cook just until tender. Season with seasoning packet. Garnish with sliced green onions. 3. Chinese Chicken Salad. Shred 1/4 a head of cabbage, 1 breast of chicken, and 1/4 white onion. Add 1 package of crushed Chicken-flavored Ramen. In a small bowl, whisk together the seasoning packet, 2 tablespoons of oil, 2 tablespoons of white vinegar, and 2 tablespoons of sugar. Toss dressing into salad, serve and enjoy. 4. Ham Fried Ramen. A simple take on Fried Rice, cook a packet of Pork Ramen until the noodles are tender. Drain completely. In a skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of sesame oil and 1 tablespoon olive oil until sizzling. Add 1/4 cup diced ham and 1/4 cup of frozen peas & carrots to the oil. Immediately toss in the noodles. Crack an egg into the mixture and stir until well cooked and distributed around the noodle mixture. Season with soy sauce, garnish with a handful of diced green onions. 5. Parmesan Ramen. Cook a packet of ramen noodles. Save the flavoring packet for another day. Once the noodles are cooked, drain the water from them completely. Top with a pat of butter, a bit of freshly-shredded parmesan, and some chopped parsley. 6. Chicken Noodle Ramen. Boil 3 cups of water, 1/4 cup carrots, 1/4 cup of celery, and 1/4 cup shredded chicken. Once the carrots and celery are softened (about 6-8 minutes), add a packet of Chicken Ramen and the seasoning packet. Cook until the Ramen is tender. 7. Chili Lime & Shrimp Ramen. Cook a packet of Chili Ramen according to package directions. Toss with 1/4 cup diced scallions, 1 cup of cooked shrimp, and a lime wedge. 65 8. Easy Ramen Lasagna. Place 4 squares of uncooked ramen noodles into the bottom of a 9×11 baking dish. Cover with a layer of cooked and crumbled Italian sausage, your favorite canned spaghetti sauce, and a layer of cottage cheese mixed with chopped spinach. Top with an ample amount of spaghetti sauce. Cover with a hefty bunch of shredded mozzarella. Cover and bake in an oven preheated to 350 degrees for 30-40 minutes. Remove the foil 10 minutes before baking is finished to brown up the top of your cheese. 9. Pad Thai Ramen. Cook a packet of Pork Ramen according to package directions. Just before you add the flavoring packet, drain most of the water from the pan (leaving about 2 tablespoons worth of water), then add 1/2 teaspoon cream peanut butter, the juice of 1 lime, 1/2 teaspoon of vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon soy sauce, a pinch of garlic and onion powder, and a drizzle of sesame oil. Mix together until very well mixed. Garnish with chopped cilantro and peanuts. 10. Mandarin Ramen Salad. Cook Chicken Ramen according to package directions. Drain water completely, reserve spice packet for dressing. Toss cooked ramen with 1 small package of coleslaw mix, 2 stalks of diced celery, 1 can mandarin oranges (drained), and 2 tablespoons of white vinegar mixed with the flavoring packet and 2 tablespoons sugar. Garnish with diced scallions. The Best Cooking Tricks We’ve Ever Heard Bon Appetit People don’t just wake up one day and know how to cook. Like any other skill, cooking is a learning process. Whether it’s cooking your way through Mastering the Art of French Cooking, watching cooking shows on TV, or observing professionals, you slowly collect an arsenal of skills and tricks for making better food. But everyone has that linchpin technique, trick, or tool that instantly changed the way they approach food. Here are 15 of our staff’s aha! moments. Finishing Pasta in the Pan: “Learning how to finish pasta in the pan was a life changer. One day, I was at Street & Co. in Portland, Maine, and saw chefs dumping cooked pasta into the skillet of sauce, stirring it around for a bit, and adding a splash of the water they were cooking the pasta in (and maybe a knob of butter), then serving it. So I ripped off the technique at home. It made sense: Why not cook pasta (at least the last minute or so) in the actual sauce? That way the flavor infuses the pasta. It was the addition of cooking water that proved to be the secret weapon. That starchy elixir created an emulsified, ‘creamy’ (note quotes) sauce that bound everything together, making it a complete dish, rather than two thrown-together elements. I’ve never looked back.” —Scott DeSimon, deputy editor 66 Don’t Be Afraid of Heat (and a Little Smoke): “Lesson #1 I learned from being a professional cook: Do not be afraid of heat. There’s no way to get a good sear on a steak or any piece of meat without cranking it up. And if you’re cranking the heat, then you are going to generate some smoke when the meat hits the pan. It’s OK—don’t panic! Just be prepared to open windows and disable the smoke detector before it starts blaring. Lesson #2 can be summed up in a little game I like to call, ‘Go ahead, just try and over-season this burger.’” —Alfia Muzio, test kitchen contributor Microplane—Not Just for Cheese: “Discovering I could be using my microplane for more than just citrus. Now, instead of painstakingly mincing garlic and ginger, I’ll microplane them into salad dressings or a sauté.” —Belle Cushing, editorial assistant Use Your Scissors in the Kitchen: “Use scissors to cut your kid’s food. I mean right there in the bowl. I cut EVERYTHING with scissors when it comes to kid food.” —Alex Pollack, photo director Use Salt to Clean Your Cast-Iron Pans: “Cleaning a cast-iron pan with salt. It’s a fast and easy way to soak up the oils that could go rancid in the pan without using soap that will break down your seasoning and make your pan rusty. It will also help dry out any stuck-on bits for easier removal.” —Mike Ley, deputy art director 67 Give Your Veggies Space: “Not overcrowding the roasting pan. My roasted veg always came out only ‘fine,’ and I didn’t realize it was because I was cramming in as many veg as I could fit. Now I give them a little room—and my roasted veg have gotten twice (three, four times?) as good.” —Meryl Rothstein, senior associate editor Get Yourself a Fish Spatula (to Use for Everything): “The discovery of the fish spatula. I use it for everything from omelettes to fried eggplant rounds to getting cookies off the tray to, well, fish. They should rebrand it as the Everything Spatula, maybe more people would own one.” —Alison Roman, senior associate food editor Soak Your Brown Rice: “Soaking brown rice overnight so it’s faster to cook.” — Kaitlyn Wong, project manager, BonAppetit.com Use an Immersion Blender: “I’m a pretty big immersion blender evangelist—I don’t know how I ever made soup (did I? Those just seem like dark times now) before purchasing one about two years ago. Food processors are great and all, but for $30, you can have perfectly creamy soup with way less hassle.” —Carey Polis, senior web editor 68 A Pressure Cooker’s a Dream for Beans: “It’s not that I don’t like soaking beans—really, I do!—but when I used my pressure cooker to make the best dried chickpeas I’ve ever eaten, I became a crazy proselytizing weirdo about it. It now takes 40 minutes of unattended cooking time— instead of 3 hours plus overnight soaking—to make perfectly tender, creamy throughout, impeccably seasoned chickpeas (or any beans). I’m never going back.” —Carla Lalli Music, food & features editor Salt, Salt, Salt: “How to use salt! I grew up with a salt-averse (but completely lovely!) nutritionist mother, and wasn’t schooled on the awesome power of NaCl until I took my first line-cooking job. Specifically: The more fat a dish has in it, the more salt you need to make the flavors really shine (think a burger or rich, cream-based sauce). Magic.” —Amiel Stanek, assistant to the editor in chief For Dressings, a Jar’s Your Best Friend: “I used to do that precarious bowl-balancing-whisking thing when I made vinaigrettes, but my life (or at least my salads) were changed forever when I finally made good use of the fact I’m a mason jar hoarder. I toss vinegar, Dijon mustard, seasoning, and oil in half-pint or pint jar, screw on the top, and shake, and I’m good to go. Plus, I can make extra and store it in the same jar. Seriously, what was I thinking before this!?” — Rochelle Bilow, writer, BonAppetit.com 69 The Best Way to Clean Your Greens: “I remember one time, I was about to wash off some lettuce and my dad told me to wash it from the leaf side down the the stem side. If there’s dirt on the stems—where dirt usually is, of course—you’re spreading the dirt to the leaf if you’re doing it the other way around. I think of it every time I wash greens. Plus, it was a tip from my dad, who did only a fraction of the cooking at home.” —Matt Gross, editor, BonAppetit.com Chop Your Onions the Right Way: “Learning how to dice an onion properly. Google it, and thank me later.” —Danielle Walsh, assistant Web editor 70 The Gossip Fence Transgender In The News There's no wrong way to be a woman. Ever wonder about the brain's white matter microstructure diffusivity? Don't know what the hell we're talking about? Well, start paying attention . . . because it may be important in determining our gender identity. Earlier this month, the Medical University of Vienna issued a press release announcing that "the very personal gender identity of every human being is reflected and verifiable in the cross-links between brain regions," with distinctions specifically in what's known as brain "white matter." Translation: We now have some proof of a neurological distinction between gender identity and biological sex. Says the report: "While the biological gender is usually manifested in the physical appearance, the individual gender identity is not immediately discernible and primarily established in the psyche of a human being." There is some early evidence, then, that science is catching up with something many of us already assume, and for good reason: Gender identity exists on a scale, rather than in narrow dichotomized groups. In essence, trans people had brain chemistry approaching the middle of the gender spectrum -- inherently different from their biological sex and closer to their identified gender. For example, a trans woman has significantly different brain movement than a cis man, despite having the same biological sex. Moreover, trans men and trans women were different from each other, implying that the brain shows a wide range of gender based differences, rather than simply male or female. While we shouldn't run wild with this research quite yet, it's an important finding -- and one supported to some extent by past work as well. More From The Annals Of Gender Identity Research A 2010 study found similar results comparing just trans men with cis men and women. Yet another study found a similar pattern, but in differences in blood flow between genders. However, researchers often contend that if hormone therapy is involved, it could influence such brain chemistry. For example, someone who has had hormone therapy may have very different results (likely more similar to their gender, rather than sex) in brain composition than someone who has not (the Vienna study did take hormones therapy into account). Furthermore, some research shows that gender identity and sexuality are interrelated. In these studies, sexual preference was an important factor in brain chemistry, even within a subgroup of, say, trans men. Specifically, there are brain-based differences between trans men who are attracted to women and trans men who prefer men. Birth certificates ask parents if ‘woman giving birth’ is female No, that’s not a typo. A city Health Department form for new parents requesting birth certificates asks the “woman giving birth” if she’s male or female. Along with routine questions — mother’s maiden name, mother’s legal name, mother’s Social Security number — is a gender question that has raised a few eyebrows. 71 And just in case the inquiry is not clear, the birth-certificate request provides a convenient check box and asks the question in capital letters. “What is your DATE OF BIRTH, current AGE and SEX?” the form asks in the section clearly marked “Mother/Parent (Woman Giving Birth).” “To be clear, it is possible for a person who has given birth to a child to identify as male,” said Susan Sommer, a lawyer for Lambda Legal, an advocacy group for lesbians, gay men, bisexuals and transgender people. Sommer said that given various transgender stages, there is room for the person who gives birth to check the male box. Not to leave the father out, the form asks dads the same question and gives them the same check-box options. Only, there’s no “giving birth” notation in the that section. Advocates encourage same-sex couples to adopt because doing so gives them extra legal protection. But the birth-certificate provision can clarify parental rights in situations ranging from a hospital nursery to a school registrar’s office, Sommer said. ‘Boy Meets Girl’ movie review: A small-town transgender love story The title “Boy Meets Girl” suggests a run-of-the-mill romantic comedy, and at first the movie appears to be just that. A 20something man and woman, longtime best friends, hang out at a coffee shop and give each other a hard time. He’s an avowed lothario and she’s lamenting the dearth of relationship-focused guys. Both are beautiful, so of course you set your stopwatch for how long it’ll take these two to just fall for each other already. But the movie, from writer-director Eric Schaeffer (“If Lucy Fell”), isn’t quite so straightforward. You see, the young woman, Ricky (Michelle Hendley), is transgender. She was born with male equipment and, although she hopes to one day change that, has more important things to save up for — like moving to New York, where she wants to become a fashion designer. Until then, Ricky is stuck in her home town, somewhere in Kentucky, working as a barista and perpetually shooting the breeze with her best buddy since first grade, Robby (Michael Welch), an easygoing, good-old-boy mechanic. But their routine is disrupted by the arrival of Francesca (Alexandra Turshen), who wanders into the coffee shop one day and falls for Ricky. At first Ricky writes her off as a stereotype — a rich, conservative Southern belle. But, despite her occasional cluelessness, Francesca is warm and open-hearted, even if she does think that being transgender is a communicable disease. The two become more than friends, and confusion quickly ensues. Neither Ricky nor Francesca has had a relationship with a woman, and Francesca happens to be engaged to a Marine stationed in Afghanistan. The transgender experience has been getting its due recently in pop culture, between the Golden Globe-winning Amazon series “Transparent,” about a transitioning baby boomer, and Netflix’s acclaimed “Orange Is the New Black,” which features transgender actress Laverne Cox. “Boy Meets Girl,” too, stars a transgender actress. Schaeffer discovered Hendley on YouTube and, despite a lack of experience, she brings a low-key naturalism to her portrayal, despite clunky dialogue and too-convenient plot twists. “Boy Meets Girl” comes across not just as an emotional story, but also an earnestly instructive one. The director wants to make sure the audience walks away with no questions about life as transgender, which can be entertaining — as when Ricky and Robby have conversations about what it feels like to bed a woman — and deeply affecting, such as when Ricky literally lays herself bare, emerging from a lake entirely naked. Often, it feels conspicuously educational. Kansas Governor Takes Mean-Spirited Swipe At Gay Rights, Forgets To Read The Constitution In 2007, the state of Kansas was forbidden from firing state employees because of their sexual orientation or gender identity under an executive order signed by then-Gov. Kathleen Sebelius (D). On Tuesday, the state’s sitting governor, Sam Brownback (R), abruptly rescinded this order. Before any state officials take Brownback’s action as a license to purge gay or trans workers, however, they should familiarize themselves with the Constitution and the Supreme Court’s decisions applying it in gay rights cases. If Kansas actually fires someone for being gay or trans, they are likely to find themselves on the wrong end of a federal lawsuit. The Constitution forbids states from denying any person “the equal protection of the laws.” In the gay rights context, the Supreme Court explained most recently in its 2013 decision striking down the anti-gay Defense of Marriage Act (DOMA), “[t]he Constitution’s guarantee of equality ‘must at the very least mean that a bare congressional desire to harm a politically unpopular group cannot” justify disparate treatment of that group.'” 72 The Court’s precedents also establish that discrimination by a state official is no less offensive to the Constitution than discrimination by an act of Congress, so if a Kansas state official fires a state employee simply because they are gay, lesbian or bisexual, they violate the Constitution — regardless of whether a state has an executive order in place banning the practice. Mere anti-gay animus, divorced from another, legitimate justification for the state official’s action, cannot justify discrimination. Transgender Law Center, CA, USA TLC@SONG: Transgender Law Center announces its national expansion in the South Transgender Law Center, one of the country’s leading transgender advocacy organization, and Southerners on New Ground (SONG), the largest LGBTQ grassroots organization in the South, is proud to announce TLC@SONG a new form of national collaboration. Officially announced to thousands of LGBTQ activists in Denver, CO at the National Gay and Lesbian Task Force’s Creating Change Conference, TLC@SONG promises to be a new form of national collaboration that marries Transgender Law Center’s long history of legal, policy and trans-specific expertise inside of SONG’s well-respected southern base-building and organizing shop. “As the largest regional grassroots LGBTQ organization in the South, SONG sees TLC@SONG as a way to add new capacity in the South to work against the violent attacks on trans and gender nonconforming communities with integrity and accountability to our region” said Caitlin Breedlove, SONG Co-Director. “There is already some strong trans and gender nonconforming-led work in the south and we want to see that grow through innovative national collaboration.” “With one-third of LGBTQ people in the entire country living in the South, and yet as recently as 2013, the South receiving less than 3% of LGBTQ funding nationally. Thousands of those LGBTQ people are trans or gender non-conforming” said Kris Hayashi, Executive Director at Transgender Law Center. “Our hope is that TLC@SONG will be a step towards supporting trans leadership in the South to win campaigns and protections that are needed.” Transgender Law Center recently completed a 3-5 year strategic planning process which included surveying key leaders and organizations advancing Trans Rights, and assessing community need and resources across the country. As a result of this planning process and the intentional partnership between TLC and SONG, the work will be a mix of policy advocacy, legal work, public education and movement building. For more information including the new hire position soon to be announced visit: www.transgenderlawcenter.org Ore. bakery will have to pay same-sex couple up to $150K The owners of Sweet Cakes by Melissa bakery will have to pay the couple up to $150,000, BOLI spokesman Charlie Burr said. The exact amount will be determined at a hearing on March 10. In Jan. 2013, Laurel Bowman said Sweet Cakes refused to sell her and her fiancée a cake for their upcoming wedding. Bowman said Aaron Klein, the co-owner of Sweet Cakes by Melissa, said the couple's union was an "abomination unto the lord." Bowman filed an anti-discrimination complaint with BOLI later that year, alleging that the bakery violated the Oregon Equality Act of 2007, which protects the rights of Oregonians who are gay, lesbian, bisexual or transgender. "Oregonians may not be denied service based on sexual orientation or gender identity. The law provides an exemption for religious organizations and schools, but does not allow private businesses to discriminate based on sexual orientation," Burr said. Although the owners of Sweet Cakes by Melissa are religious, the bakery is not a religious institution under law. The BOLI Interim Order announced Feb. 2 found sufficient evidence that the Kleins discriminated against the same-sex couple. The owners of Sweet Cakes by Melissa will have to pay up to $75,000 per person who filed the complaint, which means the same-sex couple could be awarded up to $150,000, Burr said. Sweet Cakes closed its doors in Dec. 2013, in the midst of the public backlash from the investigation. The owner of the 73 bakery said she would keep baking cakes at a home-based bakery. Are Transgender Veterans at Greater Risk of Suicide? Veterans of the U.S. armed forces who have received a diagnosis consistent with transgender status are more likely to have serious suicidal thoughts and plans to attempt suicide. A new study shows that this group has a higher risk of suicide death than the general population of veterans, as described in an article in LGBT Health, a peer-reviewed journal from Mary Ann Liebert, Inc., publishers. Data was gathered from the VA National Patient Care Database from 2000-2009, John Blosnich, PhD, MPH and coauthors from VA Pittsburgh Healthcare System and University of Pittsburgh (PA), University of Rochester (NY), VA Central Office (Washington, DC), East Tennessee State University (Johnson City, TN), and VISN2 Center of Excellence for Suicide Prevention (Canandaigua, NY). This data determined that while the suicide death rate among veterans with transgender-related diagnoses was higher than for veterans in general, it was similar to the suicide death rate for veterans with serious mental illness such as depression or schizophrenia. "VA has a multifaceted strategy to reduce suicide among veterans," said Byne. "Its commitment in 2011, and reaffirmed in 2013, to provide respectful transgender-specific healthcare as well staff training in transgender cultural awareness and sensitivity may also address the high suicide rate among transgender veterans." To read the report, visit http://online.liebertpub.com/doi/abs/10.1089/lgbt.2014.0050?journalCode=lgbt Ashton Carter confirmed as next defense secretary The U.S. Senate on Thursday overwhelmingly confirmed Ashton Carter to succeed Chuck Hagel as the next secretary of defense. “While the challenges impacting LGBT troops may not have been addressed in the confirmation hearings, it is very important for our military families that Carter address them soon after he is confirmed,” said Ashley Broadway-Mack, president of the American Military Partner Association, in a statement after Carter’s confirmation hearing. “While we definitely understand the host of important challenges he will face broadly, non-discrimination protections for gay and lesbian servicemembers and open and honest service by our transgender troops are essential for continued progression of fairness and equality in the Armed Forces. All we are asking is for our LGBT service members and families to be treated like everyone else, no more and no less.” Florida Lawmaker Wants To Criminalize Transgender Bathroom Use For ‘Public Safety’ Florida State Rep. Frank Artiles (R) has introduced a bill that would prevent transgender people from using the restroom that matches their gender. According to HB 538, a trans person using the proper bathroom would commit a misdemeanor of the first degree, punishable by up to a year in jail or a $1,000 fine. This criminalization would “secure privacy and safety for all individuals.” In addition to making it a crime to use the restroom, Artiles’ bill would also make it so that when transgender people use the restroom, they become “liable in a civil action to any person who is lawfully using the same single-sex public facility.” So, too, would the owner of any public accommodation be liable for civil action for allowing such usage. Experts in states across the country where transgender protections have already been in place have debunked the myth of sexual predators exploiting these laws as “beyond specious.” Oregon drivers can change gender designation under new DMV policy: The Oregon DMV has a new policy that will make it easier for people to change their gender designation on their licenses. Basic Rights Oregon has more information on the change, which they say will make it easier for transgender people to have 74 accurate identification cards. The DMV also has a how-to guide on its own site. And "change my gender designation" is now featured on the DMV's homepage. To change your gender, you'll need to submit one of several documents, including a DMV change of gender designation form, a court order of gender change or a birth record amended with the desired gender designation. Department of Labor Clarifies Restroom Access, Other Protections for LGBT Workers The National Center for Transgender Equality welcomes proposed regulations published today by the Department of Labor, which clarify that unlawful sex discrimination in the workplace extends to bias against transgender workers and workers in same-sex relationships. While this rule directly applies to federal contractors—who are already subject to explicit LGBT protections under a 2014 executive order—the rule confirms the increasingly broad legal consensus that sex discrimination laws protect all LGBT workers. Importantly, the proposed rule incorporates the essential principle that transgender workers must have equal access to workplace restrooms consistent with their identity. The National Transgender Discrimination Survey found that nearly 80% transgender workers had access to appropriate restrooms at work—but as many as 1 in 5 workers did not, many of whom ended up losing their job because of their transgender status. Lower-income workers were more likely to be denied this basic right. The sex discrimination rules enforced by DOL’s Office of Federal Contract Compliance Programs (OFCCP) are being updated to reflect the evolution of case law over the last three decades—including protections for LGBT workers that have been recognized by courts and other agencies. Sexual orientation and gender identity bias by federal contractors is already explicitly prohibited by President Obama’s 2014 update to Executive Order 11246. However, clarifying the overlapping sex discrimination protection for LGBT workers is consistent with existing regulations for federal workers and decisions of the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission. Trans people more likely to feel unsafe, report says Transgender people, especially those of color, are up to seven times more likely to feel unsafe in San Francisco than non-trans LGBTQI community members, among other findings included in a report being released February 10. The study points to a lack of affordable housing, racism, mistrust of police, and other problems. Among its recommendations, the report encourages increasing economic opportunities, funding for social services, and police training. "The perception of San Francisco as a progressive, LGBTQI-friendly environment is not enough to keep our communities safe," says the report. "In fact, this perception can itself be a barrier to the system's willingness to identify deficiencies and prioritize system transformation to address discrimination. Support services are overtaxed, and violence continues to be a prevalent issue facing LGBTQI community members." The city's Human Rights Commission commissioned the assessment in 2014. The LGBT Community Center and the group Learning for Action collaborated on the study. Agencies including El/La Para TransLatinas and the district attorney's office also participated in the effort. The assessment is based on surveys, interviews, focus groups, and literature review conducted from July to October 2014. Over 400 people completed the community safety survey, with 26 surveys conducted in Spanish. Researchers conducted 14 in -depth interviews with "community members representing particularly underserved segments of the LGBTQI population – people who speak primarily Spanish, youth, and transgender individuals," the report says. Almost 25 percent of respondents said they consider themselves transgender in some way, while "an additional 5 percent said they didn't know or were questioning their gender identity." Key findings In most settings, transgender people, especially transgender people of color, are more likely than non-trans people "to feel unsafe," and "up to seven times more likely in some settings" and more apt "to feel limited by safety concerns about where to live, work, socialize, and get health care and other services," according to the survey results. One stark example is that 60 percent of transgender Latinas "feel unsafe walking around during the day – when only 12 percent of LGBTQI respondents overall do." 75 San Francisco's shortage of affordable housing "exacerbates" concerns, the report says, "prompting many to remain in housing or neighborhoods where they don't feel safe." The study also points to "high levels of mistrust" of the police and says, "36 percent overall don't believe the police would help" if needed. "Transgender community members, people of color, and those with lower incomes or who have experienced homelessness are least likely to believe that police will come to their aid." The lack of trust can lead to LGBTQIs not reporting violence to anyone, with 44 percent not reporting physical violence, according to the data. New Yorkers must wait seven months to apply for city ID card The wait for appointments to get municipal ID cards is stretching into late in the summer. City Council Speaker Melissa Mark-Viverito said Sunday that the wait is about seven months. “Unfortunately, the demand has been so great, now appointments are going into August” and September, Mark-Viverito said on John Catsimatidis’ radio show. Some 100,000 people have made appointments to apply for the cards, which are available to all city residents, including undocumented immigrants, transgender people and others who have trouble getting proper ID. They also offer perks like free museum memberships Hormone Treatment Approved for Chelsea Manning Hormone treatment for gender reassignment has been approved for Chelsea Manning, the former intelligence analyst convicted of espionage for sending classified documents to the WikiLeaks website. The treatment would enable the Army private formerly known as Bradley Manning to make the transition to a woman. Manning changed her legal name in April 2014. The Army was providing some treatment but not enough, according to the lawsuit, including psychotherapy from a mental health specialist who lacked the qualifications to treat gender dysphoria. The Federal Bureau of Prisons and many state and local corrections agencies administer hormone therapy to prisoners with gender dysphoria, but Manning is the first transgender military prisoner to request such treatment. The 26-year-old former intelligence analyst was convicted in August 2013 of espionage and other offenses for sending more than 700,000 classified documents to WikiLeaks while working in Iraq. Transgender people are not allowed to serve in the U.S. military, but Manning can't be discharged from the service while serving her prison sentence. The Guardian hires Chelsea Manning Chelsea Manning is joining The Guardian U.S. as a contributing opinion writer, the site's editor-in-chief, Katharine Viner, announced on Tuesday. Manning, previously known as Bradley Manning, was an Army private who was convicted in 2013 and is serving a 35-year term for leaking national security materials to WikiLeaks. She will write "occasionally from Fort Leavenworth prison on the subjects of war, gender, and freedom of information" for the British newspaper's American site, Viner wrote in a staff memo. Manning will not be paid. Manning wrote an essay for The Guardian in December about being a transgender woman. Only 13 US states give trans students the right to use the correct toilet Across the United States, the issue of education rights for trans students is becoming a big issue. Particularly, the rights of trans students to use the toilets and changing rooms that match their gender. The US Department of Education has made it clear that education equality laws apply to trans students too. This means 76 schools must provide facilities equally to trans students – including the right to use the appropriate bathroom. However, while the law can be interpreted to protect trans young people, it does not specifically mention them. As seen in Virginia, schools and local authorities can insist trans students use separate, neutral facilities and argue that this fulfills their obligation to provide for trans people. Only thirteen sates, and the District of Columbia, has specific protections for trans students. Harper Jean Tobin of the National Center for Transgender Equality told Vocativ “Most of these have specific statutory language, interpretive guidance, and/or case law spelling out that the law requires equal access to facilities for transgender students. These explicit protections and interpretations have certainly helped raise awareness of the rights of students.” President Obama mentioned transgender people in the State of the Union address for the first time in US history. But in 37 states, trans students still can’t be guaranteed the right to use the toilet at school. Transgender Widow Says Suit In Front of Texas Supreme Court May Impact Same Sex Marriage The United States Supreme Court is expected to rule on same sex marriage early this summer -- but there's also a case in front of the Texas Supreme Court that concerns same sex marriage. At the center of it is a transgender widow named Nikki Araguz. The story begins on a July night in 2010, when Nikki and her husband, Thomas Araguz, lived in the small town of Wharton, outside of Houston. An egg farm went up in flames, and Thomas, a firefighter, was one of the first responders. Nikki was on the road to California to change the sex from male to female on her birth certificate. “They don't amend it, they void the original and reissue,” she said of the state where she was born. She woke early in the morning to hit the road again, but checked Facebook first. That’s when she got the news that Thomas had died in the fire. “Within moments he called mayday, nobody pulled him out. He called mayday again; nobody pulled him out,” she recalled with tears in her eyes. “Within six minutes of him calling mayday, the building collapsed.” Now a widow, Nikki found herself on uneven legal ground. Thomas' ex-wife and mother filed a lawsuit against her, over Thomas' death benefits. Edward Burwell represents Heather Delgado, Thomas' ex-wife, and the children from her marriage to Thomas. “What's at issue in Thomas Araguz estate,” he said, ”There are specific benefits that would be paid that would reduce the children's benefits.” The lawsuit that is now in front of the Texas Supreme Court has two basic arguments. First, it argues that Nikki Araguz is a man, because they say Texas law says gender is decided at birth. Attorneys also argue that the marriage between Nikki and Thomas Araguz was a same sex marriage, which is illegal in Texas. Burwell said, “ The timeframe of the marriage is that although Ms Araguz had begun to present as a female, she didn't actually accomplish the transition to assume the anatomical role of a female.” Nikki says she had sex reassignment surgery after she married Thomas, but says that shouldn’t matter. She told KEYE TV she always identified as female. “A birth defect doesn't define a person or their gender,” she said, adding the case is about more than widow’s benefits. “While it is a marriage equality case, the ultimate ruling in this case will determine what rights transgender people have in Texas,” she said. In the meantime, Nikki Araguz has remarried, to a Houston artist named William Loyd. That marriage is not a same sex marriage – the couple says they obtained a marriage license in Fort Bend County, where the clerk accepted her driver’s license that says she is female. Both sides in the case in front of the Texas Supreme Court have agreed to a time extension. Nikki Araguz says she thinks a same sex marriage ruling from the US Supreme Court will help her case; attorney Burwell disagreed. Pennsylvania’s governor-elect chooses ‘transsexual’ physician general Democratic Gov.-elect Tom Wolf named Dr. Richard Levine – who now goes by “Rachel” – as his pick for physician general on Saturday, at the same time as he announced three other proposed members of his cabinet. If confirmed by the state Senate, 77 Levine will become one of the highest-ranking transsexuals of any government body in the United States. “Dr. Rachel Levine is well-respected in the fields of pediatrics, psychiatry, and behavioral health, where she [sic] has practiced for close to three decades,” Wolf said in a press release explaining his selection. “She [sic] has been a leading voice in efforts to treat teens with medical and psychological problems, as well as adults and children with eating disorders. It is important to me that we place equal emphasis on behavioral and physical health issues. Dr. Levine will bring expertise and wide-ranging knowledge to this important role advising the secretary of Health and me on medical and public health matters.” Levine, who has two teenage children with his ex-wife, Martha (they divorced in 2013 after 30 years of marriage) has spent most of his career treating eating disorders such as anorexia and bulimia, but since his decision to “come out” as transgender, he has been increasingly focused on homosexual and transgender activism. He currently sits on the board of gay advocacy group Equality PA, and serves as the LGBT liaison for the Office of Diversity at Penn State Hershey, where he is a professor. He previously served as the faculty advisor for the campus LGBT club, and founded a faculty-student mentoring program for people with same-sex attraction and gender identity issues. Levine told the Patriot-News that he believes his status as an open transsexual will help him to advocate more effectively for other people whose sexual expression is outside the biological norm. As physician general, Levine will be responsible for advising the governor and secretary of the Department of Health on medical and public health-related issues. If confirmed by the state Senate, he will be a member of the governor’s cabinet. If not, then Wolf may opt to keep him on as a senior adviser without the blessing of the Senate. Selfridges is introducing a unisex shopping concept For six weeks, Selfridges will be introducing a gender neutral shopping experience. The Oxford Street store will be merging its separate women’s and men’s departments over three floors. As well as allowing us to ‘shop and dress without limitations or stereotypes’ as the store suggests, we’re thinking this is ideal if you and your boyf are keen on buying some snazzy shared outfits, or want to choose coordinating clothes without having to dash back and forth between floors. Win, win. Launching in mid-March, the Agender project will feature an exclusive, unisex line from furniture designer Faye Toogood, as well as capsule collections from Bodymap, Nicola Formichetti and Underground. Designs from Ann Demeulemeester, Comme des Garçons, Meadham Kirchoff, and Gareth Pugh will also feature. Given that blurring gender lines has been such a strong theme at the Men’s Collections shows and at Couture Week, it’s a timely concept from the store, but it’s not just part of a passing trend. ‘The project will act as a test bed for experimentation around ideas of gender — both to allow our shoppers to approach the experience without preconceptions and for us as retailers to move the way we shop fashion forward.’ The store will also change up its window displays, swapping gendered mannequins for androgynous ones dressed with non gender specific clothes.They’ll also host photography, film, music and design pieces around the theme online and in store. You can shop the Agender project at the Oxford Street, Birmingham and Manchester Selfridges stores as well as online from March 12 until the end of April. Army considers easing policy on transgender soldiers WASHINGTON — The decision to discharge transgender soldiers from the Army would be made by a top, senior civilian official under a plan outlined in a draft document obtained by USA TODAY. The move would make it more difficult to remove such troops from the service. Instead of being made by lower-level Army officers, the memorandum says, the decision to discharge transgender soldiers would be made by the assistant secretary of the Army for personnel. In all services, transgender troops can be automatically dismissed from service on medical grounds once they are identified. 78 "Assigning responsibility for discharge decisions to a senior official would be a welcome step toward inclusive policy, but transgender troops will still have to serve in silence until more is done to dismantle the ban," said Aaron Belkin, director of the Palm Center, which has published research on sexual orientation issues in the military. "Hopefully this is a signal that the Army — and other service branches — will finally begin a comprehensive review of the regulations regarding transgender service members, which everyone agrees is long overdue," said Joshua Block, who leads the American Civil Liberties Union Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender Project. "I also hope the 12-month time frame is an indication that the Army understands the urgency of this issue for transgender service members and their commanders." ASK LAMBDA LEGAL Discrimination as religion Dear Ask Lambda Legal, Q: I was reading about a bakery that didn't want to make a wedding cake for a gay couple because it goes against the baker's religion. Can't the couple just go somewhere else? A: Private businesses, such as bakeries and grocery stores that offer goods to the public, are usually bound by public accommodation laws. These laws say that a business that is open to the public must be open to everyone, regardless of whether the business owner or employees approve of who each customer is. This is an important protection against discrimination because the law treats bakeries, groceries and other stores—businesses operating to make profits—differently from churches and other organizations that exist for religious purposes. If a bakery, store or restaurant were allowed to turn away gay people, it would open the floodgates to all kinds of discrimination against many different groups in all kinds of business settings, not just gay people. For example, medical clinics often are private businesses. What if a for-profit clinic decided for religious reasons not to care for a pregnant woman because she isn't married? Or, if a landlord believes that men should be the head of the household and refuses to rent to single mothers? Freedom of religion is already firmly protected by the state and federal constitutions. But that freedom does not give any of us the right to discriminate against others when operating a business. But that is exactly what many lawmakers across the country are attempting to allow. Last year saw numerous bills in state legislatures aiming to expand religious rights to ignore laws. Fortunately, in Arizona, Idaho, Kansas, South Dakota, and Tennessee those efforts were dropped or stopped. However, the movement pushing these bills continues: Indiana is currently considering this type of legislation, and it illustrates why we're worried. The intention to facilitate discrimination against gay and transgender people is all too clear. But, the bill also threatens to encourage a broad range of other harms because, in other states with this kind of law, individuals have argued that non-discrimination laws, child abuse laws, and domestic violence laws don't apply to them if they have a religious objection. If you have questions or feel that you have been discriminated against based on your sexual orientation, gender identity or HIV status, please contact our Legal Help Desk http://www.lambdalegal.org/help. Jennifer Pizer is the national director of Lambda Legal's Law and Policy Project. Canadian invents creme that removes tattoos As hard as we try, most of us are going to do a thing or two that we regret over the course of our lives. This new creme will help erase some of those regrets, though: it can make tattoos disappear. So far, Alec has been testing his miraculous creme on tattooed pig ears. It’s not exactly the same thing as testing on a human, but it’s a very close analog. Tattooists have been honing their skills on pig skin for a long, long time, so it makes sense that Falkenham chose to trial his topical creme this way. 79 The creme works by targeting the white blood cells (macrophages) that captured the ink originally injected by the tattooist’s machine. A treated tattoo doesn’t vanish instantly once the creme is applied. Multiple applications are needed, and Falkenham isn’t completely sure how many would be required for complete removal. That magic number would likely vary from person to person, too. When he says, then, that treating a 10cm by 10cm area would cost around $4.50 per treatment, it’s hard to say how big a bargain that works out to. It would probably still be a great deal cheaper than a laser removal. There’s bound to be a sizable market for this magic macrophage creme. Plenty of people don’t like the thought of having a tattoo zapped away with a laser, and others may just prefer being able to look after removal themselves in the comfort of their own homes. Alec’s creme has one other potentially huge advantage: it won’t leave behind any unwanted scars the way laser removal can. He’s now busily working with Dalhousie University’s Industry Liaison and Innovation office to bring the creme to market, so painless at-home tattoo removal might be in your no-to-distant future. Charged as a man, convicted as a woman: unusual criminal case in Miami MIAMI -- Nearly a decade ago, Harold Seymore was charged with sexually assaulting a female tourist on South Beach. Last week, Seymore was finally convicted of the crime -- but as a woman. Seymore's story is a complicated one, an unusually long grind through both the criminal justice and mental health systems, all while struggling with gender identification issues. Born intersex, with functioning male and female reproductive organs, she has slowly transitioned to a woman. For the first time in her life, Seymore donned a dress last week as she sat in a MiamiDade courtroom to face jurors. Her change in appearance from the 2005 arrest never took center stage but surfaced in subtle ways over four days of trial. Witnesses described a tall lanky man behind the assault. But defense attorneys, despite occasional slip-ups, made sure to call Seymore "she" while prosecutors used a neutral "the defendant." For Miami-Dade Circuit Judge Teresa Mary Pooler, she was "Miss Seymore." Transgender defendants aren't all that unusual in South Florida, and Miami-Dade jails have special protocols for handling them. But Seymore's case is rare -- an intersex person who has gender transitioned over the decade it took to bring the case to trial. By law, all transgender and intersex inmates are screened for their risk of sexual victimization or sexual abusiveness twice a year. But it will be a challenging new environment, said Michael Silverman, executive director of the Transgender Legal Defense & Education Fund. In an interview Friday, Seymore repeatedly referred to herself as a "hermaphrodite," a term considered outdated by transgender and LGBT-rights advocates. But Seymore's young life was particularly troubled. Her first arrest came at age 14 -- for carrying a concealed weapon on school grounds. Over the years, the convictions piled up: battery on an elderly person; petty theft; disorderly conduct; cocaine possession. None was serious enough to warrant prison time. She was always booked as a man. "Her life fell apart," Assistant Public Defender Matthew McElligott told the judge on Friday. After her arrest for the sexual battery in 2005, Seymore's mental condition deteriorated so much she could not help her attorneys in preparing a defense. Four times over the years, judges declared her mentally incompetent to proceed and she was sent to state psychiatric facilities for rehabilitation. It was during those stays that Seymore made it known she wanted to begin identifying as a woman, she said. Off and on, she 80 began receiving hormone pills to aid in her physical transformation. Finally facing justice last week, Seymore declared she did not want to wear a suit for the trial. She chose to fully embrace her femininity. "It meant I finally committed," Seymore said. Defense attorneys scrambled to find a dress to fit her six-foot-two, 175-pound frame. They found a Theory-brand dress in the closet of co-counsel Stacy Marczak. The mid-knee hem on Marczak was more like a mini on Seymore. "It was a very expensive dress," McElligott said. During jury selection, candidates were asked if they could be fair to someone who had chosen to identify as a woman. The responses were mostly positive, but one man who thought it was a "sin" was dismissed. But Seymore's gender transition couldn't help but add some confusion to the proceedings. Her lawyers occasionally slipped into calling her "he." Judge Pooler, during one legal argument, noted that public defenders were representing "this gentleman ... I mean, ma'am." One police officer on the witness stand seemed confused as defense attorneys referred to Seymore as "she." The judge simply instructed him to keep answering the questions. "We didn't want to highlight it," McElligott said. "And it didn't become much of an issue." Her fists balled tightly, the woman nervously identified Seymore in court. The forensic evidence was strong -- the victim's DNA was also found under Seymore's fingernails. Defense attorneys hoped to convince jurors that Seymore only punched, but never sexually battered, the woman. But jurors rejected the argument, convicting her of sexual battery with no great harm, battery and petty theft. Judge Pooler agreed. "Based on everything I've heard, I do believe you're a danger and you will continue to be a danger to society. And you need help." Because of the time she has already served in custody, Seymore will likely serve less than four more years behind bars. Though she wants to appeal, she accepted her sentence with no protest, more concerned about resuming her estrogen treatments with hopes of one day being able to bear children. She hopes her case might serve to show the struggles of transgender and intersex people. Upon her release, she said that perhaps she'll become a comic-book artist, and maybe change her name. "I like Sofia," she said. "Sofia means wisdom." HUD tells Homeless Shelters to Respect Self-Identified Gender The Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) released long-awaited guidance to ensure equal access for transgender people in homeless shelters. The guidance, issued to shelters and transitional housing programs across the country, call for access to shelter and programs to be based on a person’s self-identified gender. This follows similar guidance issued by the Department of Justice in 2014 for domestic violence shelters and other programs funded by the Violence Against Women Act (VAWA). HUD’s guidance today says that shelters may not ask transgender people intrusive questions about their bodies or medical histories, or deny access based on the gender on a person’s ID or another person’s discomfort with transgender people. The guidance urges programs to provide any accommodation requested on an individual basis for safety reasons, but the bottom line is that each person’s self-identified gender must be respected. This is tremendous progress and great news NCTE and other advocates have pressed HUD to issue this guidance since the Department adopted a regulation in 2012 prohibiting discrimination based on sexual orientation and gender identity in HUD-funded programs, including emergency shelters. Since then, the Attorney General has announced that the federal government interprets laws prohibiting sex discrimination, such as the Fair Housing Act, to protect transgender people. NCTE is strongly urging HUD to take additional steps to make clear that these principles apply, by law, to all forms of housing under the Fair Housing Act and HUD program regulations. Although many homeless and domestic violence shelters around the country have long recognized that it is a best practice to respect transgender people and allow access programs based on their self-identified gender—and many state and local laws 81 have required equal access for many years—transgender people still face extraordinary barriers in accessing shelter, driven by a refusal to recognize their identity. According to the National Transgender Discrimination Survey, nearly one in five transgender people (19%) has experienced homelessness at some point because discrimination. Almost one in three (29%) transgender people seeking shelter were turned away outright, while 55% were harassed, 25% were physically assaulted, and 22% were sexually assaulted in the shelters they were allowed into. Shelter staff forced 42% of transgender shelter-seekers to live as the wrong gender in order to be allowed to stay. Overall, nearly half ultimately left shelters due to abuse or poor treatment in shelter. Transgender women and trans people of color were more likely to be turned away or experience harassment and assault in shelters. Trans Military Veterans Can Now Update Critical Records Having an old name on the discharge papers is a significant challenge for trans vets, and can cause them to have to out themselves when they show their 214s. The military has always argued that 214s were historical documents and should not be edited except for inaccuracy or injustice. The military would not consider the discrimination trans vets faced because of an old name as an injustice and a wrong name was not even an inaccuracy. Whether a name change happened because of transition, marriage or religious reasons, the name on the 214 was accurate at the time of discharge and therefore not considered inaccurate. To make advocacy even more challenging, 214s are controlled largely by each of the four military branches. Some veterans have occasionally been able to get their 214s changed, but most could not. Federal law allows the correction of records when it is necessary to correct an error or remove an injustice, and for years NCTE and allies advocated that showing an old name and therefore having to disclose trans status on military discharge papers was an injustice that should be removed. Finally, in December, the Army responded to a complaint from the ACLU of New Jersey and approved issuance of an updated DD214 to a trans military veteran. A number of other veterans have also had updated documents issued since then. Because it is still not an official policy for which any of the branches have issued formal guidance, we will continue to work with the branches and DOD to clarify and formalize the policy. Until then, we are confident that most veterans who have legally changed their names for transition-related reasons will be permitted to change the name on their DD-214 with the branch in which they served. Military veterans may refer to NCTE's Military Records Know Your Rights resource to update their military documents— including DD-214s as well as Department of Defense payroll and pension records, where an outdated gender marker can cause problems for military dependents or retirees. 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 M Su iss M za ne arc Ol h ivi a 94 March 2015 Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31