vital sport climbing skills

No. 311
10 vital sport climbing skills
from
Jonathan
Siegrist!
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v
L at i t u d e
Adjustment
By Leia Larsen
Six hot spots for beating the winter blues
For those who live for winter, this is the time to dig out the crampons and axes, pray for
fat ice (or powder days), and toast with dark, well-aged beers. But for many rock climbers,
the fourth season’s frigid weather, short days, and snowdrifts at the local crag can make
one turn inward. Literally. But you can only pull on so much plastic. Shatter the coldweather routine at one of these climbing paradises where warm sun and tropical scenery
are guaranteed. Bonus: No flights higher than $700, nor any major jet lag potential. Just
world class rock. Bust out the flip-flops, pack your rack, and get moving.
21.46° N, 157.98° W
Nicky Dyal takes a free
solo lap at Makapu'u
Point, Oahu, Hawaii.
routes
Marta Czajkowska
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Latitude Adjustment
beta
r ec omm e n d ed ro u t es :
puerto rico
➔Puerto Rico has mucho climbing packed into its 3,500 square miles, and
it’s called the “Island of Enchantment” for good reason, with idyllic Caribbean
beaches, more than 300 mountain peaks, and subterranean rivers. Temps hover around 70°F to 80°F all year, and the rainy season ends by late December.
The island has four distinct limestone climbing areas. The Nuevo Bayamón
area alone has more than 100 sport climbs with grades from 5.7 to 5.12d, ranging from short and pumpy to low-angled and relaxed. The other areas—Caliche, Rosario Peñón, and Relincho—offer gymnastic-style pulling. Approach
trails are typically well-marked and involve short jungle hikes.
40 |
No Refund (5.8), Bianca
Nieves (5.9), Independence Day (5.9), Horizontal
Limit (5.10d), Pangea
(5.11a), Grafitti (5.11c),
Chocolate Sky (5.11d),
Shanghai Bombay (5.12a),
¡Mira, Claro Que Sí!
(5.12a).
Ge a r : 60m rope, quickdraws, and a light rack of
cams, as a handful of routes
are mixed. A number of
routes have old fixed webbing; bring replacements
just in case. Free climbing
guides for Bayamón,
Caliche, and Rosario Peñón
are available online through
Adventuras Tierra Adentro,
a climbing outfitter located
15 minutes from the San
Juan airport (aventuraspr
.com). The shop also sells
standard gear.
Stay: Puerto Rico’s crags
are all within a 1.5-hour
drive of San Juan. The
Palace Hostel in San Juan
has free Wi-Fi, complimentary breakfast, and laundry
facilities (thepalacehostel
.com). Public campgrounds
within state forests are
closest to the crags.
Cambalache State Forest
is 45 minutes from Caliche,
and Susua State Forest is
35 minutes from Rosario
Peñón. Permits for state
forest camping are issued
through the Departamento
de Recursos Naturales
y Ambientales (drna.
gobierno.pr); no amenities.
El Yunque National Forest
is about an hour from San
Juan and Nuevo Bayamón;
camping is undeveloped
and dispersed throughout
the park. The Palo Colorado
Information Center issues
free camping permits and
has running water (fs.usda
.gov/main/elyunque/home).
R est Days : Check out Isla
de Vieques, six miles off
Puerto Rico’s southeast
shore, via a short ferry
ride (vieques-island.com/
viequesferry.shtml). Its
17,800-acre national
wildlife refuge is home to
diverse ecosystems and
endangered species, including Antillean manatees
and leatherback sea turtles
(fws.gov/caribbean/Refuges/Vieques). After hiking
through the refuge, play on
the island’s beach boulders
and spend the night to
check out its glowing bioluminescent bay. Vieques
Adventure Company has
tours with transparent
polycarbonate canoes
(viequesadventures.com).
M o n e y: No passport
required; Puerto Rico uses
U.S. currency.
Lo g i st i c s : Direct flights
are available from major
U.S. airports. A rental car
is the only way to access
climbing areas.
tomÁs donoso (left), Karsten Moran/tandemstock.com
18° 15’ N and 66° 30’ W
Left: Bryant Huffman moves
through uniquely shaped
limestone on Sexy Elf
(5.10a), Nuevo Bayamón,
Puerto Rico. Above: Cooling
off in the waters below La
Mina Falls in El Yunque
National Forest.
de cember/january 2013
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Latitude Adjustment
oahu
hawaii
21.46° N, 157.98° W
➔With average daily highs hovering around 72°F year round, Hawaii's climbing conditions are nearly
always dreamy. Most of Hawaii’s climbing is on Oahu’s north shore, with most of the rock right along the
island’s 50 miles of beaches. “Everyone’s super friendly,” says Mike “Bugman” Richardson, who has developed several routes on the island. “We’re all glad to help visitors out and show them around.”
Although the state recently closed two of the most popular sport climbing areas (details below), climbing abounds at numerous other bouldering areas and sport crags. Waimea Bay, 45 minutes from Honolulu,
has unique bouldering on black, lava-flow rocks right on the beach, with highballs up to 35 feet. The style
varies from slabby to overhanging, with cracks, pockets, and incut edges. And Waimea’s famous waves keep
the problems changing. “Big waves on the north shore will, from day to day, deposit or remove as much as
10 feet of sand from the base of the bouldering area,” Richardson says. “So a route that was 15 feet tall this
morning might be 30 feet tall the next week.” Buried Treasure (V1) is so named because it disappears under
the sand some years.
Within Honolulu’s city limits, jump on urban boulders at Wa’ahila Ridge. Located just above the University of Hawaii campus, the Wa’ahila boulders feature long traverses and challenging cave problems
developed by the Climb Aloha team in 2009. For those looking to rope up, Jungle Canyon has more than
two dozen sport and trad routes on steep basalt columns, sitting at the base of the Waianae Mountains.
beta
recommended routes :
Monkey Arête (5.9), Wasp
Central (5.10b), Jungle
Fever (5.12a), Groove Tube
(V0), Buried Treasure (V1),
Parlay (V2), The Root
Route (V2), Bird Cage
(V3), T-Rex (V4/5), Da
Cave (V5)
Gear: A 60m rope and
quickdraws, plus a light
rack for Oahu’s few trad
routes. Rent crashpads,
helmets, and harnesses
from Climb Aloha (climba-
42 |
loha.com). They can provide directions and maps;
more beta at rockclimbinghawaii.com.
Stay: Hawaii is pricey, but
affordable county and
state park campgrounds
dot the island (camping.
honolulu.gov). Because
of high use, campsites
close on Wednesdays and
Thursdays, giving nature
time to recover. Plan accordingly. Or check out Ke
Iki Bungalows, less than
a mile from Waimea Bay
(keikibeach.com).
R est Days : Don’t miss the
Pearl Harbor Memorial
Museum and Visitor Center
(pacifichistoricparks.org).
Oahu’s North Shore has
some of the country’s best
surfing—beginners should
head south for lessons on
Waikiki’s gentler waves.
Log i st i c s : Rent a car or
use Oahu’s public transportation system, which
provides access throughout the island. The North
Shore climbing areas are
a 45-minute to two-hour
bus ride from the airport.
Oahu Access Issues
After a rockfall accident in 2012 that killed a young
girl at the Mokuleia crag, the state Department of
Land and Natural Resources shut down the area,
which had been Hawaii’s most popular crag. Following suit, the Department of Hawaiian Homelands
closed climbing access to Makapu’u Point. Local
climbers and the Access Fund are currently working
to reopen these areas. “Right now, we’re kind of in
that waiting game,” says Access Fund policy director R.D. Pascoe, who recommends that concerned
climbers write letters to the state departments
(contact info at accessfund.org).
eddie gianelloni (left), ian shive/tandemstock.com
Left: Justin Ridgely on the
popular Arch near Ka'ena
Point, Oahu. Above:
Surfers off Oahu's North
Shore enjoy views of Mt.
Ka'ala, the highest point
on the island.
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Latitude Adjustment
El Potrero Chico
Mexico
➔El Potrero Chico in northeast Mexico holds some of the world’s
best multi-pitch sport climbing. In the winter months, temperatures drop from blazing hot to mild and pleasant, and the grey,
high-quality limestone makes for incredible climbing, day and
night. “Lots of full-moon climbing goes on,” says Dane Bass, Potrero's guidebook author. “The moon comes up right behind your
back and completely lights up the wall.”
Surrounded by looming cliffs up to
2,000 feet tall and stunning desert scenery, Potrero draws climbers from all over
the world. The approaches in the six-milelong canyon are usually short, and the
locals are friendly and accommodating to
climbers. The nearby town of Hidalgo has
25° 56’ N, 100° 28’ W,
coffee shops, eateries with excellent local
dishes, and comfy accommodations.
beta
r ec o m m e n d e d ro u t es : Mr.
Fluffer’s Wild Ride (5.9),
Will the Wolf Survive?
(5.10a), Treasure of the
Sierra Madre (5.10c), Estrellita (5.11a), The Devil’s
Tongue (5.12a), Guppie
(5.12b)
G e a r : A 70m rope and
quickdraws will get you
safely up and down most of
the multi-pitches, though
a light trad rack will open
up a few more options.
Find Bass’s guidebook, The
Whole Enchilada ($36,
potrerokrew.com), at many
shops in the States.
Stay: Lodging options
abound at Hidalgo, which
is five minutes from the
climbing. La Posada rents
campsites, private rooms,
and casitas that sleep
four people. It also offers a
communal kitchen, restaurant, swimming pool, yoga
classes, massages, airport
shuttle, and bike rentals
(elpotrerochico.mx).
R est Days : An excursion
to the nearby hot springs
is a good way to relax achy
muscles; visit termasdesanjoaquin.com.mx for
directions. Be sure to check
out La Hacienda del Muerto,
on the way to the springs.
The ranch is more than 400
years old, and will intrigue
both architecture and
history buffs. Much of the
estate was laid to ruin during the Mexican revolution,
and it’s believed by some to
be haunted (potrerochico
.org/listing/hacienda-delmuerto).
M o n e y: U.S. dollars are easily exchanged for Mexican
pesos. Once you’re in
the country, travel, food,
and accommodations are
relatively inexpensive.
Logi st i c s : Passport
required. Several airlines
fly from major U.S. cities
to Monterrey, a 35-minute
drive from El Potrero Chico.
Travelers can take a shuttle
to Hidalgo (oma.aero/en
/airports/monterrey/passengers/services/taxi). Travelers crossing the border
by car should be prepared
with a passport, car title,
and a credit or debit card,
all under the same name.
Those still making car payments will need to obtain
a note of permission from
their bank. Find an online
guide at potrerochico.org.
Because of increased
drug cartel activity, Monterrey can be dangerous,
though those traveling
directly from the airport to
Hidalgo shouldn’t encounter
any problems. Safest bet:
register and check regularly
with the local consulate
(monterrey.usconsulate.
gov/information_for_travelers.html).
james aikman/tandemstock.com (top), richard wheater (2)
Right: The sun breaks
over the limestone peaks
of El Potrero Chico. Below: Ruins at Mina, near
Nuevo León. Bottom:
Mandoline Masse-Clark
on Surfarosa (5.13a), at
the Surf Bowl.
44 | de cember/january 2013
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Latitude Adjustment
beta
18.4819° N, 64.3892° W
Above: Jon Wasser stays in balance on Apeman (V5) during low tide. Left:
Forrest King on the first ascent of Ital Rain (V3), which finishes with a 25-footjump into the ocean. Below: Lobster diving on a rest day.
Virgin Gorda
British Virgin Islands
➔The easternmost isle in the British Virgin Islands, Virgin Gorda has enough boulders to make any climber giddy, and all areas come replete with a chill Caribbean vibe. “That laidback island culture really mixes
well with climbing culture,” says Rich Crowder, author of the area’s guidebook. Virgin Gorda’s beaches are
packed with boulders, all within walking distance. Average temperatures range from 67°F to 80°F in the
winter months, and never dip below 60°F.
The island offers granite boulders with three distinct styles. Rocks near the ocean are smooth with big
pockets. Farther inland is friction climbing, with a “baked outer crust with a ridiculous amount of texture,”
says Crowder. The third type combines the first two: The baked crust has peeled, eroded, and chipped,
forming interesting crimps and lumpy surfaces. And while the climbing is fun and varied, don’t expect difficult routes. “The majority of the climbing there is moderate,” Crowder said. “With it being hot, it’s hard to
establish difficult problems.” Come primed with an R&R mindset.
46 |
Banyan Arête (V0), Spring
Bay Crack (V1), The
Scuttle (V3), Fire in the
Sky (V4,), Peebles (V6,),
Ribbed For Pleasure (V9)
Ge a r : Bring chalk, but
not crashpads. They’re a
hassle to check on flights,
Guavaberry Spring Bay Resort rents them, and many
boulders have flat, sandy
landings. Pick up Crowder’s
guidebook, A Guide to Bouldering and Traveling the
Virgin Islands, in January
($20, fixedpin.com).
Stay: Guavaberry Spring
Bay Resort is the climbers’ favorite: The one- to
two-bedroom bungalows
are literally feet from many
boulders and within walking
distance of most of the
island’s climbing. Guavaberry also has a grocery,
and is about as affordable
as accommodation gets.
Bring cash, as credit cards
aren’t accepted (guavaberryspringbay.com). Camping
is not allowed on the island.
R est Days : Don’t miss the
Baths: small bathing pools
surrounded by boulders.
Climbers will enjoy the
bouldering potential, but it’s
also fun to wander around
the natural labyrinth.
Kiteboarding is popular
on the north sound of the
island. Rentals and classes
are available at the Bitter
End Hotel (caribkiteboarding.com).
M o n e y: The U.S. dollar is
the island’s legal currency.
Virgin Gorda can be pricey—
keep costs down by sharing
a bungalow or villa and food
expenses with friends.
Lo g i st i c s : Passport
required. Fly into Saint
Thomas, and then catch
a ferry to Spanish Town
on Virgin Gorda. Ferries
only operate on Tuesdays,
Thursdays, and Saturdays.
Nearly all the bouldering
is within walking distance
from Guavaberry Spring Bay
Resort. Rent a car to access
more remote areas.
rich crowder (top, bottom left), marc Muench/tandemstock.com
r ec o m m e n d e d routes:
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Latitude Adjustment
Viviana Gomez Vega takes a quick shake on El Ocaso de los
Idolos (5.12d) on Suesca's colorful sandstone.
Suesca
Colombia
➔With more than 400 routes, a temperate climate, easy access, and quality sandstone, it’s no
wonder Suesca is considered the birthplace of
Colombian rock climbing. January and February are the driest months, and temps hover at
70°F all year. Suesca’s crags are easy to find, via a
10-minute walk along railroad tracks. Although
well-developed, the area has preserved a sense of
rugged mountain beauty that will appeal to intrepid travelers.
The Rocas de Suesca cliffband, with around 20
crags in 2.5 miles, has hard, granite-like sandstone, with something for everyone—cracks, fins,
roofs, arêtes, and more. The majority of routes
are protected by trad gear; only a few are fully
bolted. Most climbs are single-pitch, but some
routes go up to four pitches.
Routes_311a.indd 48
beta
r ec o m m e n d e d ro u t es :
Suerte (5.8), El Acróbata
(5.9), Inti Rami (5.10a),
Azul Turbio (5.10a), Mandahuevix (5.10c), Curly
& Moe en el Planeta de
los Simios (5.11a), Green
Master (5.11c), Nueva Era
(5.11+).
G e a r : A few savvy outfitters have set up shop near
the crags, but they are
open only on weekends
when climbers surge into
town. Stop in at MonoDedo
(monodedo.com) for gear
and the Spanish-language
guidebook, Escaladas
en Suesca y Valle de los
Halcones. Or take a look
at Suesca’s online guide
(suesca.com/en/rockclimbing).
Stay: Suesca has abundant
camping, dorm-style hostels, and guesthouses with
shared baths and kitchens.
El Vivac Hostel is run by local climber Katty Guzman,
provides guiding, and even
rents bikes for rest days
(elvivachostal.com).
R est Days : Take the twohour bus to Bogotá for
cultural attractions and
exciting nightlife, or stay
local and rent mountain
bikes and trail maps from
the nearby shops. For a
geological diversion, check
out the salt mines in Zipaquirá, a 1.5-hour drive from
Suesca. The biggest draw
is undoubtedly the Salt
Cathedral, a temple built
200 meters underground
(www.bogotaturismo.gov
.co/en/zipaquira-s-saltcathedral).
M o n e y: The Colombian peso
has a favorable exchange
rate, and low living costs by
first-world standards make
for budget-friendly travel.
Log i st i c s : A passport is
required, with a maximum
90-day stay, and Colombia
charges a $33 exit tax.
Buses leave regularly from
the downtown Bogotá
Portal de Norte terminal to
Suesca (transportesalianza.jimdo.com). The crags
are only a 15-minute walk
from downtown Suesca.
Alain denis/tandemstock.com
5.10° N, 73.80° W
11/1/12 6:51 PM
Cayman Brac
beta
r ec o m m e n d e d ro u t es :
➔Cayman Brac’s limestone crags have impressed pirates, sailors, and British colonists since soon after the days of Columbus. And the “Brac”—a Gaelic
word for bluff—continues to inspire the adventurous. Climbers have developed
the island’s steep limestone cliffs for two decades now, but its potential is hardly
scratched. “The climbing is world-class,” said developer John Byrnes. “There’s
still an unlimited number of climbs to be done.” With a permanent resident population of less than 2,000, the island has no television, cell service is spotty, and
Internet access is limited.
The Brac currently has more than 60 routes up to
150 feet, ranging from 5.7 to 5.12+. Pockets are the
cliffs’ primary features, but you’ll also find unique
tufas and stalactites. Several routes are located at
the Point, where the wall drops directly into the
ocean and requires a rappel to access the exhilarat19.30° N, 1.383° W
ing climbing. Ascenders are a good idea—and the
only way to bail. Most other crags are accessible by
an easy hike, but some approaches require traversing on choss; Byrnes recommends gloves and hiking
boots or approach shoes.
Bolt corrosion
One of the greatest dangers facing climbers in tropical locales is corroded hardware.
Salt in the water, air, and rock eats away at stainless steel, causing bolts to break easily. Even a “take” can result in failure. Often the corrosion occurs from within, making
it impossible to see. Consult guidebooks and locals to ensure all the hardware you’re
climbing on is safe and updated, like titanium instead of stainless steel.
L’ Orangerie (5.8+),
Shiver Me Timbers (5.10b),
Throwing the Tortuga (5.11b), Out of Africa
(5.11d), Leapin’ Lizards
(5.11d), Chicken of the Sea
(5.12a).
G e a r : 60m rope and quickdraws. Printable guide at
climbcaymanbrac.com.
Stay: Byrnes rents out
the Bluff View Climber’s
House (climbcaymanbrac.com/lodging), with
two one-bedroom units
equipped with kitchens.
Byrnes’ digital guide also
recommends a few other
climber-friendly vacation
rentals if the Bluff View is
booked up. Camping on the
Cayman Islands is illegal.
R est Days : The Brac’s minimal development amounts
to paltry nightlife, but the
diving and snorkeling are
spectacular. Or hike or bike
the island’s 35 marked
trails. The Brac Reef
Beach Resort rents dive
equipment and bicycles
(bracreef.com). For other
downtime activities, Byrnes recommends hanging
out on the beach, stargazing, exploring the island’s
caves, making friends with
local fisherman, and buying
their fresh catch for an
evening barbeque.
M o n e y: The Cayman
Island Dollar (CI$) has a
permanent exchange rate
fixed at one CI$ to every
U.S. $1.25. U.S. dollars are
accepted everywhere, but
expect to receive change
in CI$.
Log i st i c s : Flights are
available directly to Cayman Brac from Miami.
Other U.S.-based flights
will likely have a short
stopover on Grand Cayman. As a British Crown
Colony, a passport and
return ticket are required.
Renting a car is mandatory
to access the climbing
areas, and U.S. visitors
need to obtain a temporary
Cayman license for $7.50.
Alain denis/tandemstock.com
“It brought
me into that
dreamy state
of imagining myself in
John’s boots,
thinking about
battling to
the top, and
the singular
experience of
being on that
mountain. . . .
Brilliant, funny,
and replete.”
—Jon Waterman,
author of
Running Dry and
Surviving Denali
Cloth $23.95
Distributed by the University of Chicago Press
www.press.uchicago.edu
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