Climate

Climate
The best time to come is late autumn to early spring. Do not come here in winter if it is very cloudy, raining
or even snowing, though this can change in a matter of days and winters are generally nice - but it‘s a gamble. In
the summer the whole place becomes a high-health-risk sauna. It is possible to climb, but only in the morning and
evening, in the shade (like Mišja right side). Luknja can be climbable all summer, but it is excruciating.
Mišja peč and Luknja are protected from the wind, and therefore the extra winter cold. Elsewhere, things can
only worsen during the „burja“, a strong northeastern wind (which signals the start or the end of rain). Jugo, a
southwestern wind, usually brings rain. But even if it is raining you can still climb many of the routes, although long
and intense rain causes leakage and many of the tufa and holes get extremely soaked. Some of those take a long
time to dry. After even longer periods of rain (not every year) the Osp river may rise and when that happens, a
small lake forms under the Luknja sector, which obviously makes it impossible to climb (other than a very cold
DWS, which is yet to be tried...).
On a sunny day expect temperatures to be much higher directly under the wall, especially in Mišja peč and Babna.
A 15o C forecast can in that circumstances mean a comfortable 20o C and more.
Mišja peč lies on the elevation of 50 m. The wall faces mostly southwest. The left part faces southeast and the
right part northwest.The sun traverses from left part to right part. In the winter the sun rays come to the middle
(let‘s say to Albanski konjak) around noon. In the summer you can climb until noon on the right side, while there
is still shade.
In Osp the elevation is similar, but varies about 150 m
depending on the sector. Babna has similar caracteristics
as Mišja peč, only it is more exposed to the wind and
rain. Banje is even more in the shade. Both of those face
southwest. Srnjak and Luknja face more to the south
and get the morning sun, but are also much faster in
the shade. You can climb in Luknja long after it is too
hot to climb in Mišja peč, though it also gets a bit hot as
summer progresses.
The shortest day is in december (7h-16h), in april/september it is from 5h – 18h, and in summer from 4h – 20h.
2
“the Lake situation”
Sleeping
The hawk-eyed climbers will see many possibilities for illegal camping. It used to be a nice experience, to spend
the night under the wall, but if you are considering it now, it means you didn‘t yet read “The story of some problems“
chapter.To recap it for you: don‘t even consider it. It is also against the law. The nearest campsite is at the Vovk farm
in Osp, which is there almost exclusively for climbers. Some bungalows are being built, but you might want to make
reservation in the high season. If you, for some bizarre reason, don‘t want to sleep so near the rock itself, you can
find campsites in Kozina or Ankaran, as well as the whole Slovenian coastline (good luck trying to find something
open in the winter). If you have a lot of money you can get private room or apartment. Ask at Klabjan in Osp. You
can also ask around at Silvo Karo‘s in the middle of village. Maybe he can halp you address the rumors about some
hostel in this parts. There are also apartments Tenja in Predloka near Črni Kal. Foreign climbers also like hostel
Xaxid, which is a bit far away. New additions are also hostels in Korte and Ocizla. Many times you can rent a room
in Osp or Gabrovica. Small camps and hostels are scattered all around the nearby countryside.
Eating & Drinking
Your first query can be directed in camp Vovk. Drinking will not present a problem here, but for a nice meal it
has to be the right day (most weekends and holidays).They got game.Try it with gnocchi. Cheap beer and climbing
ambient is included for free. Other than that, close to Osp there is a fancy restaurant Majda, but you, the stinky
climber, are likely to be rejected. Excellent seafood can be on the menu in Žerjul in Črni Kal and you can get the
biggest burgers in the area at Viki Burger café half way through Črni Kal, which is also the best place for morning
coffee. If you get hungry in the evening, there is much better selection of restaurants in Kozina – restaurant
Mahnič, with home-brewed beer stands out, especially for meat lovers. And let‘s not forget the whole coastline
with major city Koper.You can find something to eat even in Trieste. If you are interested in alcohol, don‘t go any
further than to the next house and try exquisite local wine from their cellar. Of course, new local restaurants
pop up all the time in vicinity. The author is quite excited with nearby Konoba moja (a few kilometers away on
a road leading to Buzet), but you can find many culinary delights if you take a short ride around. If you need
recommendations: the before mentioned gnocchi, game, truffles, wild asparagus and sea food should satisfy your
tasting buds. Try the refošk, merlot and teran red wines or pinot, malvazija and rebula on the white side. There
are also exquisite local spirits, made from various fruit.
3
Climbing areas
in vicinity
One easier alternative, that many consider
part of the same climbing area, is Črni Kal, 3
km to the north, with about 300, mostly easier
and slabby routes. Further to the north in
Slovenia you get to Skedenj near Sežana with
many 8a‘s and 8b‘s and some more potential.
Not too far is also Risnik of Divača with some
interesting vertical technical pieces. In the old
stone quarry near Črnotiče there is some nice
bouldering.
Italy has something to offer, too. Not as
spectacular as Osp or Mišja peč, but nice little
get-aways from the crowds (if you‘re lucky).
All the listed crags are in the close vicinity to
Trst/Trieste. Near the slovenian border is Val
Rosandra - Glinščica, a huge and scenic canyon
with another 400 routes, that start lacking
around 8a. Next is Napoleonica, a scenic and
interesting spot, with mostly polished vertical
routes, which can be quite challenging. After
that there are even more scenic, small sea-side
crags of Costiera and Sistiana. If you have to
pick, go to Costiera. And if I save the best for
last, there are two futuristic caves with a superb
selection of some hard routes and climbable in
the summer: Barratro and Grotta Katarina.
The true potential for the future lies in the
neighbouring Croatia, which is constantly
developing and evolving. Here are just a few
suggestions. The nearest area is around Buzet
and includes Kompanj (many routes of all
grades above nice istrian villages), Sopot (place
rightfully called Pandora, with mean overhangs,
a waterfall and hard routes all around), Izvir
Mirne (AKA Buzetski kanjoni, a big area with
everything), Čiritež (in development), Isatarske
toplice (nice & small), Raspadalica (slabby
place), Nugla (short) and Ćepić (scenic village,
canyon and some easy routes).
More to the east, towards the sea, we bump,
among other places, into Ponte porton (for
some easy climbing), Dvigrad and Limski
kanal (many routes above the fjordy sea, but
mostly up to 7b+) and sea-side Rovinj (still
easy routes). You can roam around Istra a bit,
perhaps to Pazin (for short, ambiental routes
beside waterfall), Vinkuran (for very specific
technical problems in old Roman quarry), Vela
Draga (if only for the beautiful Ućka scenery) or
Medveja (for future projects, including a 9a).
Matic Obid, Osapska pošast (8c)
6
foto: Luka Fonda
Luka Šorli, Dance without sleeping (7b)
Other Information
In Osp it is hard to get your own food, drinks
and other supplies. There is a mobile bus-store passing through, with accompanying pleasant music, but
if you want better selection, go across the border
towards Trst and you will se a large supermarket,
Monte D‘Oro, after 5 km, on your right. Or try one
of the supermarkets in Kozina, Škofije or Koper. For
more specialized stores (like for climbing), try Koper
or Trst (and Monte D‘Oro). The biggest selection is,
of course, in Ljubljana, which isn‘t that far away.
You can find out more at climber-oriented places
such as Vovk camp or hostel Xaxid, also for some
rest day suggestions (if you don‘t like the ones in
this topo). Unlimited source of information and
anecdotes from the old times as well as the local
wine is Elica, a local resident, living in the middle of
Osp village. Her house is also a hotspot for climbing
rescuers. Speaking of which, their phone number is
112 (the same for firemen and ambulance). If you do
not behave, the villagers can call 113 for police. If
your car is stuck on the motorway, call 1987. More
information about surrounding climbing areas can be
obtained from guidebooks Plezališča brez meja and
guides for sport climbing in Slovenija and Croatia.
They can be bought at Elica, in climbing stores,
bookstores and online at www.sidarta.si.
The Internets
The closest WiFi spot is in Viki Burger. It‘s free.There may be
more (even in the village itself!).
* www.plezanje.net (Guidebooks about Slovenian and other
areas and comments about grades and routes. - SLO)
* www.gore-ljudje.net (Slovenian mountaineering & climbing
portal with news and such. – SLO)
* www.friko.si (Portal that specializes in Slovenian sport
climbing news.) – SLO)
* www.cro-climbing.com (Croatian climbing areas, news, guides,
etc. – CRO)
* www.penjanje.net (Another Croatian climbing page, with list
of crags, news, etc. – CRO)
* www.8a.nu (Climbing portal for climbers and routes from all
over the world. – ENG)
* www.arso.gov.si (Official weather in Slovenia. – SLO/ENG)
* www.obala.net (Coastline portal with events and directories.
Also some weather. – SLO)
* www. koper.si (Touristy articles and similar stuff. - SLO/ENG)
* www.ceste.si/default1.asp?n=71 (Road camera for nearby
Kastelec. - SLO)
* www.promet.si (Check the traffic situation with another link
to Kastelec road camera. - SLO/ENG)
* www.krimp.si (Domain for this guidebook and some
more content dedicated to climbing. - SLO/ENG)
7
HISTORY OF CLIMBING in OSP AREA
For starters, some non-climbing history: before climbers came to these parts, there was a small village Osp near
the wall. It is one of the oldest Slovenian villages, first time mentioned in written sources in 1067. Even Paleolithic
and Roman artifacts were found here. In the time of Venetians a settlement known as Xaxat or Zased was at this
place.Today Osp is typical old Slovenian mediterranean village, with stone houses, narrow streets and portals made
of white karst sandstone, surrounded by vineyards. It is hard to tell if it is slowly being rebuilt or is it falling apart.The
village is nested under the Big wall, under which the Osp river springs. There is also a cave, called Grad (“Castle“).
That‘s because there used to be a fortification in the cave, where locals fled from Turks, Napoleon, Italians, Germans
and even Americans during different wars.
Now about climbing! First to come here were Italian and Slovenian mountaineers (usually from Trieste), who first
developed nearby crag Črni Kal. Climbing at the time was purely technical, using aid, ladders, pitons, and such.Today
it is funny to read the old descriptions of the area, where “many routes promise cramps in your hands because of all
the pulling“, free ascents were a rare thing, a technical route over the roof is described as “shit in the stable”, Mišja
peč is considered “not interesting for climbing“, and the worst thing is a lack of chimneys.
In 1977 Luciano Cergol and Roberto Giberna from nearby Trieste used an old compressor to bolt Stara (thus called
later - at its conception it was called simply „1977“), traversing the Big wall. You can still try it. It took them 120
hours to finish. In 1978 they bolted the spectacular Magična goba in mere 90 hours.The routes were considered as
technically very difficult and first climbers had to bivouac in the wall and do the ascent in two days (compare that
with top-roped free climb of Klemen Bečan, who needed 8 minutes to do most of Magična goba in 2011). In 1979
two more routes were added - Italijanska and Medo (named for home towns of first ascenders - Mengeš-Domžale).
Then came the great triumvirate of mountaineering-climbing legends Franček Knez, Janez Jeglič Johan and Silvo Karo.
They started making routes like some people make a sandwich: fast, easily and with a tasty result. In 1980 they made
Žaga, Prečenje, Netopir, Steber spominov and Internacionala.The last was bolted by Italians, who were just one rope
length short of finishing - then Franček Knez came around and climbed it under their noses. But, in fact, the guy was
amazing - he stands out as an author of most routes - so Slovenians who don’t really know about him… grab his
book Ožarjeni kamen and let him tell you how things used to be.
Many of the routes done in the next years, like Solza, Kanal, Sarkofag, Smer ob žmuli, Leteča Meri,... are today just
a footnote in history, rusted and forgotten. The first route in Babna was made in 1980. It was named Pero (“the
Feather”), as an odd looking feather was found at the top (after deliberation and with help of some wine it was
decided that it belonged to Archaeopterix). In 1981 the first route in Banje was opened by Cergol and Ambroso the first pitch is still available today, named Super luknja. An old legend claims that in this route somewhere Italians
hid some gold (war treasure). Good luck at searching for it. By next year the number of routes in Babna rose to 7.
May the history remember other prominent climbers with first ascents of those times: Janez Skok,Tomaž Škoberne,
Tine Mihelič, Janez Rupar, Lojze Cajzek, Stane Lesjak, Marjan Frešer, Lidija Hoznak, Janez Marinčič, Bor Štrancar, Bojan
Leskošek, Janez Sabolek, Lidija Painkiher, Milan Romih, Aco Pepevnik, and many others.
Soon, news from Osp were a mix of new routes, repeats of old classics (with faster and faster times), and also free
climbing of routes. Free climbing came to Slovenia from USA in the late 1970s, but took some time to arrive at Osp.
Maybe it was a failed attempt of Englishman John DeMontjoy in the summer of 82, which spurred Tadej Slabe and
Andrej Kokalj, who succeeded in free climbing Netopir (today 6c) in december, followed by Rok Kovač and Matej
Kobilica. Times were changing. Free (sport) climbing soon transcended its status of side activity to mountaineering.
The first to take it up exclusively (and pretty successfully, too) were the now mythical Slovenian climbing legends
Srečo Rehberger and Tadej Slabe.
Little did they know, how the focus will shift to the neighbouring crag, Mišja peč, which got its first technical routes
in 1984. We can thank Bor Štrancar with his accomplices. The routes were Lastovke, Krompirjevi zrezki and Aviaja.
But the time for Mišja peč was yet to come - there are still things happening in Big wall, which was then the only one
considered worthy. So in 1983 we get Vražji Robert - hard as a technical climb, even harder (8b), when freed some
15 years later. On 30.1.1984 Karo, Johan and Knez hit the news with THE accomplishment of technical climbing in
Osp. They climbed Pajkova streha in 36 hours, making it the largest traversed roof in the world at the time, with
190 meters. As many visionaries, not understood in their time, the route was criticized for being too artificial (with
a cynical remark that they should extend it for a couple hundred meters into the cave behind). Still it became a
popular challenge to climb it in one day.
10
As mentioned before, by 1985 in started to matter how you climbed something, not only what you climbed. And
so Slabe and Rehberber freed Tržaška smer (7b). It took them two days and for some it was a complete shock. Even
today it is not an easy task for average climber, gym-trained or not.The making of new routes slowly reduced in Big
wall and diverted to smaller, but more intense crags, like Babna (everybody seemed to be in love with Hard rain (6c))
and Banje (Superhik was added close to Luknja).The routes started to multiply slowly, albeit in the grades lower than
7a (with the exception of Jonathan Livingstone by Miha Kuhar).
When Slabe and Rehberger returned to Big wall in 1986, it was
to free the legendary Magična Goba - 7c. It took them three days.
The two were stars of live TV coverage of the ascent later in may,
dubbed „Spider under an overhang“, which was later re-made into
documentary. The commentator amusingly groups the climbers into
types like „strongmen“ and „spidermen“ and is completely in awe of
how Slabe is cheating gravity with a no-hand-rest in the overhang.
Mišja peč soon lost its mythical status of being too hard, too short
and too overhanging for serious climbing - the proof was Preobrazba
(7c+), which followed some of the line of Lastovke, its technical
predecessor. Apart from a notable exception, the first 8b in Slovenia,
Karies, climbed by Slabe in 1988 in Banje, the history of difficult
Slovenian ascents is actually the history of climbing in Mišja peč. In
late 1980s many new hard routes were bolted here, mainly new
milestones in hard climbing in Slovenia. Interestingly, the first hard
routes, such as Preobrazba 7c/c+, Veseli tobogan 8a, Klobasa 8a+,
Strta srca 8a+, Truplojedka 8a+,Highlander 8a+/b, Eages 8b, are not
very popular today and their grades have usually been raised. Well,
to be fair, some routes from that era are also quite nice - Rodeo 6c+,
live TV coverage of Goba ascent, 7c
Danger zone 7a, Runo 7b, Albanski konjak 7c+, Sonce v očeh 8a+ and
Kaj ti je deklica 8b+, to name a few. Tadej Slabe and Srečo Rehberger were once more protagonists.
Meanwhile, in the neighbour crag Osp, a state championship (which at the time was Yugoslavia) happened in 1988.
It lasted three days only on “natural” new routes. The victors: Vili Guček and Simona Škarja. You can try some of
the routes: Ženska četrtfinalna 88 (6a), Mirage (6a), Ženska finalna 88 (6b) for women or Olympic (7a) and ParisDakar (7c) for men. Those were the days where they liked to chip holds even if they weren‘t really missing. Some
examples, apart from the championship routes are Trio fantasticus and Maudit,... Banje was filling up nicely thanks
to Rehberger, Kuhar and others. Even the Big wall didn’t give up, but what it was getting by now were soon to be
forgotten routes like Ujetniki Bizanca and Žalostna Sova.
But back to Mišja! In the beginning of 90‘s Rehberger climbed two stamina classics, Kaj ti je deklica and Chiquita,
both 8b+. Slabe answered him with Missing link 8b+ and in 1992 with Staro kolo, 8c+, which was at that time one
of the hardest routes in the world. Sanjski par (8c) was climbed next year - Slabe finished his project in the middle
of the roof - he would be seen trying the extension in the decade that followed. I remember how I used to sit on
the ledge above and be inspired by his power and determination. All the rucus even attraced the big names (other
than Slovenians), like JB Tribout, Corrine LaBrune, Lynn Hill and Robert Cortijo.
Srečo Rehberger
(foto: Miha Kuhar)
Tadej Slabe
(foto: Nibile)
11
Mišja peč
ACCESS & INFO
Please note that the parking situation changes constantly.
Under the crag is the old parking place, which may or may
not be available at the time you are visiting. Try to get the
latest info and don‘t park your car if you‘re not sure about
the space. It will spare you the inconvenience of flat tires
and will spare other climbers the many problems that could
arise with locals.
For Mišja peč, the least questionable space at the moment
is, coming from Gabrovica, about 300 m after the large
warehouse, after a small bridge, the first parking on the left.
Usually there will be some cars there already. After parking,
walk another 300 m to the first house on the left, where you
turn right on the path towards the old parking under the
wall. Or, you can continue on to the village and the official
parking beside the camp Vovk.The walk is only slightly longer.
Only one path leads from the old abandoned parking to the
crag, which splits a few times. You will reach the top in less
than 15 minutes. You can walk under the wall from the leftmost to the right-most part, going in a horseshoe-shaped
way. Watch out after the rain, it‘s slippery!
There are also some smaller paths which you should avoid. A few
of them are shortcuts, but most others are just WC paths. Please use
those only in gravest of needs; otherwise do your toilet business in
camp, at Viki burger or elsewhere.
In the middle of the central part of the crag is a large plateau, suitable
even for your dogs, cats and babies. If possible, avoid climbing on
Sundays and holidays in the peak season, as the area can get very
crowded.
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
No.
4a - 5c
6a - 6a+
6b - 6b+
6c - 6c+
7a - 7a+
7b - 7b+
7c - 7c+
8a - 8a+
8b - 8b+
8c - 9b
11
7
14
16
21
29
27
30
24
14
Mišja peč lies on the Karst edge, tectonic crack on the junction
between limestone and flysch. The rock is solid limestone, which
used to be a Karst cave, that was caved-in. Consequently, the wall
is full of various tufa structures. Most of the routes are slightly to
strongly overhanging, with the exception of the left- and rightmost
parts.
The holds are usually good and evenly spread, so the climbing is
mostly endurance. In the overhangs you will also need a lot of
power. Technically it helps if you are very acrobatic and inventive,
as you can make many no-hand-rests even in the middle of overhangs. Some of the most popular routes are becoming extremely
polished. On the contrary, there is almost no sharp rock. An old
saying goes, that the horseshoe-shape of the wall brings good luck
to good climbers.
This climbing area is among the best in Europe. The wall has a
highest point at 40 meters, even though some routes are a bit longer. Most of the longer routes are split in two parts, with anchor in
the middle, an independent grade and sometimes even a different
name. The anchors are fixed in all routes and practically all have a
carabiner to lower off. The bolts are usually new – a lot of them
were replaced in the recent rebolting project. Approximately half
are cemented rings, the other half are expansion bolts. The routes
are bolted close together, which does not mean you won‘t be scared shitless in the longer routes, if you are not used to the heights,
because the wall is quite exposed.
ABOUT THE CRAG
Until lately Mišja peč was considered as a playground for
better (we could say top-level) climbers, but today there are
also many easier routes (plus the climbers got better). That
said, people climbing the grades from 7a and up will still enjoy
the most. Otherwise, the range of grades varies from 4a to
9a/a+. Currently there are 193 more or less official routes.
In the last paragraph we should bow our heads to the authors of the routes: from early italian and slovenian climbers/
mountaineers to the specialists who emerged in the late
80s. First among those were true legends Srečo Rehberger
and Tadej Slabe. We could add at least Silvo Karo, Igor Kalan,
Igor Jamnikar, Stanko Židan, Dorijan Šuc, Matej Mejovšek,Vili
Guček, Marko Lukič, Arci Varenin, Dragan Todorovič and Matej Grilc to this list. 10 years later we get hyper productive
Luka Zazvonil and Matej Sova and, at their side the all-time
slovenian greats like Uroš Perko, Jure Golob, Franci Jensterle
and Aljoša Grom. From across the border Mauro Bole Bubu,
Erik Švab and Tullio Ferluga come to mind. Last gaps were
filled in the new millenium by the afore mentioned, as well
as Jure Bobnar, Jurij Ravnik, Blaž Zazvonil, Betka Galičič and
Mitja Peternelj. Along with many others that i forgot to mention, who bolted, rebolted, cleaned and freed the routes.
MIŠJA PEČ
left side
No. of routes: 41
Difficulty: 4c- 9a
Height: 12 - 23 m
The lower part consists of easier routes, with climbing
on vertical slabs, good for beginners or to warm up.
Higher up the routes become more technical and
demanding. The upper part is an overhanging wall,
where routes cross many tufas and generally good
holds. Here it is possible to climb even while it is
raining, although after long periods of rain, many routes
here become wet and damp, even if the weather is
sunny again. The left part ends in legendary “Teddy’s
cave”, where some of slovenian (and global) climbing
history was written.
8
6
4
2
0
No.
4a - 5c
5
6a - 6a+ 6b - 6b+ 6c - 6c+
3
4
3
7a - 7a+ 7b - 7b+ 7c - 7c+ 8a - 8a+ 8b - 8b+
3
8
7
3
2
8c - 9b
3
Gabriele Gorobey, Talk is cheap (8c)
foto: Luka Fonda
1. Slinavka
Technical slab with easy finish.
2. Parkljevka
Technical slab with easy finish.
3. Brbončica
Bouldery start, then easier upper part.
4. Harry Potter
left side 1/4
Bouldery start, then easier upper part.
5. Bradavičarka
Delicate and technical middle part.
6. Mojčina
Few crimpers at start, then easy.
7. Ksenjina
Few crimpers at start, then easy.
8. Naritko Mitko
Easy with a couple of power, reachy moves.
9. Lukova
Mišja peč
Crux over the roof and finish on crimpers.
10. Jožetova
Nice juggy route for good balance and footwork.
11. Dragotova
Vertical route with a couple of technical / crimpy moves.
12. Sorinina
Vertical route with a couple of technical / crimpy moves.
13. Pepel
Fingery route with reachy finish.
22
5a
14 m
4
5b
14 m
4
6a+
14 m
5
6a+
16 m
5
6b
17 m
5
5a
17 m
4
Karo
5a
17 m
5
Zazvonil
5b
17 m
5
6c
18 m
7
6a+
Karo
20 m
6
6b
20 m
6
Karo
6c
20 m
6
6b+
15 m
7
Karo
Karo
sova/jeram
Karo
Karo
Karo
Zazvonil
Karo
Lukančič
15 m
5
Technical on edges and reachy on big holds, with one good rest.
guček
7a
18 m
8
16. Meteorit
7c
17 m
7
7b+
16 m
7
18. Sternschnuppe
7b
16 m
6
19. Mičkena
6c+
15 m
7
7a
24 m
10
7c
23 m
9
7b
17 m
7
7b
18 m
8
24. Kindergarten
7a+
18 m
7
25. Matamoros
7c
18 m
8
Bouldery and technical, rarely repeated.
17. Poontang
Crux on the crimpers in the upper part.
A couple of power moves on the shooting star.
Crux in the middle and hard to finish.
20. Frenkova
Continue past anchor of Mičkena and finish in Johanova.
21. Johanova
Nice edges in the middle and a crimpy crux near the top.
22. Nido
Good rests and power boulders.
23. Kinder direkt
Left variant of Kinder requires a bit more finger strength.
Endurance on good tufas. Wet after long rain.
Endurance with boulders over roofs. Wet after long rain.
Ravnik
jensterle
karo
Peternelj
left side 2/4
15. Jumbo
6b
Galičič
Mišja peč
14. Varianta pepela
More power & less technical start and same finish as Pepel.
23
26. Tekila
8a
18 m
7
27. Durango
7b+
18 m
9
7b
12 m
7
Kalan
7c
12 m
7
8a
19 m
9
8a
22 m
11
8b
21 m
12
perko
8b+
28 m
14
7c+
17 m
7
7c
14 m
5
7c
17 m
6
8c
15 m
8
8c+
12 m
9
Crimpy, fingery start, then endurance to the top.
Endurance on good holds, no hand rest half way up.
28. Tortuga A
Easy for the grade, a bit polished. Go left at the overhang, then traverse.
29. Tortuga B
left side 3/4
Right variant, hard boulder.
30. Corto
Classic! Endurance with a short crux in the middle. Getting polished.
31. White power
Start in Corto, finish in Hobit. Spin-off route for locals.
32. Lazuret
Start in Corto, finish in Za staro kolo... Spin-off route for locals.
33. Mr. Bighand
Start in Corto, finish in Sanjski par. Endurance testpiece!
34. Gospodar prstanov
Mišja peč
Easier, although crimpier start than Corto, with same finish.
35. Mañana
Two boulders with good rest in between. Finish in Corto.
36. Hobit
Same start as Manana, go to the big hole and finish in its own anchor.
37. Talk is cheap!
Lenghty boulder soon after tufas.
38. Za staro kolo in majhnega psa
Technical roof on edges. Requires good footwork and strong fingers.
24
Kalan
Guček
perko
perko
Zazvonil
kalan
zazvonil
slabe/perko
slabe
“Tedijeva luknja”
Named after Tadej Slabe, slovenian legend, author of many hard routes in Mišja
peč, including Sanjski par and Za staro kolo..., which, when it was freed in 1992,
was considered one of the hardest routes in the world. The same year Slabe
shared first place with Hirayama, Tribout and Lombard on Rock master in Kranj.
*
9a
slabe/perko
15 m
10
For long time the first part of the route was considered a separate route. It finished on 6th bolt and was graded as a hard 8c.
But since the whole project was freed and the first finish is not really logical, it now seems a bit redundant.
40. Peskovnik
7b+
9m
4
41. Sistolitični vrt
7b+
židan
4m
2
Fingery boulder in the lower part. Somewhat easy to onsight.
Mišja peč
A couple of moves over the roof.
left side 4/4 “Tedijeva luknja”
39. Sanjski par (extension)
A series of boulders on a roof. Legendary slovenian route.
Matej Sova, Sanjski par (9a)
25
MIŠJA PEČ
central part
No. of routes: 101
Difficulty: 6a - 9a
Height: 10 - 40 m
The central part starts and finishes with a few easier
routes. On the left they soon become overhanging
endurance routes. This part is also called the Beach,
as it is the warmest part if the weather is sunny
(which is especially welcome in the winter). After
the Beach comes the most versatile part of the crag
with routes of various styles, lengths and grades. The
true long “mišja” routes start on so-called Pedestal.
Most routes here consist of easy lower and hard
upper part. The lower parts are ideal warm-ups, very
popular and are quickly getting polished. More to the
right is the main part with the hardest routes, many of
which also have two anchors. The climbing style here
is endurance in combination with cruxes and good
rests (many of them attractive no-hand-rests). Most
of the lower parts are climbable even in heavy rain,
but tend to get soaked after long periods of rain. The
central part finishes in some nice warm ups. Many
of the classic routes are already extremely polished.
20
16
12
8
4
0
No.
Matic Obid, Histerija (8c+)
4a - 5c
0
6a - 6a+ 6b - 6b+ 6c - 6c+
1
4
4
7a - 7a+ 7b - 7b+ 7c - 7c+ 8a - 8a+ 8b - 8b+
11
15
17
23
18
8c - 9b
8
foto: Luka Fonda
central part 1/8 “the Beach”
1. Pičkin dim (A.K.A. P. D.)
Bouldery start with nice technical finish.
2. Tazio
3. Kurčji rock
4. Ribalton
Very crimpy start then athletic endurance over two roofs.
5. Čao Bejbe (A.K.A. Čao pičke)
One dynamic boulder in the middle, then easier finish.
13 m
6
6c+
13 m
6
7a+
17 m
7
8a
19 m
8
8a
20 m
8
7c
19 m
7
7c
22 m
10
7c+
22 m
10
8a+
23 m
9
8a+
9m
4
7c+
8m
4
7c
25 m
10
židan
6. Iglu
Reachy start to technical power crux in the middle, then easy.
Zazvonil
7. Flash dance
Bouldery beginning, then endurance with good rests.
8. Angie wall
Overhang with good holds, splits to the left after a good rest.
B. Zazvonil
Overhang with good holds, after good rest go right. A few long moves.
Mišja peč
6c
švab?
9. Rock ‘n’ roll
10. Galaktika
Guček
todorovič/Perko
11. Strta srca
A series of boulders.
12. Twin Peaks
A couple of boulders and a couple of good holds. Soft.
Power moves from the ledge in the middle, then vertical and technical.
28
7
švab?
Vertical wall for precise climbing on edges.
13. Stinger
13 m
karo
Vertical wall for precise climbing on edges.
Long boulder on beginning, then nicer endurance.
6b+
jamnikar
jamnikar
karo
23 m
10
7b
23 m
9
Same start as Danger zone, then some more endurance climbing.
16. Nina
7b
20 m
10
17. Danger zone
7a
17 m
9
Powerful overhanging start, then perseverance to the top.
18. Nikita
7b+
19 m
9
19. Minulet
7b+
19 m
9
6c+
19 m
9
7b
19 m
9
22. Oro puro
Start on an easy boulder and finish on delicate and technical vertical wall.
7c
19 m
8
23. Teta Liza
7a
19 m
8
24. Moving shadow
7b+
30 m
14
Reachy crux on good holds and bad footholds. Getting very polished.
25. 9a
6c
karo
19 m
7
26. 9a (2. del)
7c
30 m
12
15. Skodelica kave
Technical climbing on a traverse under the small roof and easy finish.
A couple of different cruxes with good rests in between.
Nice route with a little bit of everything.
20. Ponarejeni minulet
Warm-up combo that avoids both crux parts.
21. Ponarejena želva
Technical start with a reachy crimpy crux near the top.
Quite polished vertical wall with crimpers.
Extension of Teta Liza with boulder on the beginning of upper part.
Extension of 9a with crux after first anchor, followed by nice climbing.
Neznanec
Galičič
guček
karo
central part 2/8
8b
Jensterle?
Mišja peč
14. No fly zone
Very crimpy middle part. Rarely repeated.
29
a quick glance at Mišja peč
pp. 22-27
LEFT SIDE
6a+
5a
6a+
5b
5b
5a
6c
5a
6b
6b+
6b
6c
6a+
7b+
7a
6b
7c
8b
8b
7c
7c+
7b+
7c 7c+
7b
7c
7a+
6c
6b+ 6c+
8a
P
8a
7c+
7a
7b
7c
6c+
8b
8a+
6c
7a
7b+ 7b
7b+ 7c
7a+
7a
7b+ 8a+ 7c+
8b
6c
7c
7c+
8b+
7a+
8a+
6c
8a+
8b
8c
8b+
7a+
6c
5c
8c
7a+
7a
8c+
7b
7b+
8c
8b+
8a+
7a
pp. 28-37
CENTRAL PART
7b
6b+
8c
8a 8a
7c
8a+
8b
8a
9a
8a+
7c
8a+ 7a+
RIGHT SIDE
7a+
6
7a+
7b
7b
7b+
8a
7c 7b
8c
9a
7b+
8b+
8b 8b+
8a+
P
8b 8a+
8c+
7c+
7b+
8b+
P
8a+
7c+
8a+
8c+
6b+
7a+
7b+
8a
7c
7b+
7b 7b+
8b+ 8a
8b
7b+
+
8c+
7c+
7c
8b 8b+
7b
8b+
8b
8a
8a
7c
7b 6c+
7c
7c
8c
8c
7b+
9a 7c+ 8a+ 8a
8a+
7a
6a
8a
8a
8b 8a
7c+ 8b+
8b
7c
8a
8b 8b+
6b+
6b+
7a
7c
6c+
6a+
5b
5a
7a
7a
6b
pp. 38-45
6a+ 7b+
7a+
6c+ 6c+
7b
5b
7b+
6b
5c
6b
6c+
6c
5b
6b+
6a
6c
6b